of the waters, and over it Fish-Crows innumerable were already arriving
from their distant roosts. We landed at one place to search for the
birds whose charming melodies had engaged our attention, and here and
there some young Eagles we shot, to add to our store of fresh
provisions. The river did not seem to me equal in beauty to the fair
Ohio; the shores were in many places low and swampy, to the great
delight of the numberless Herons that moved along in gracefulness, and
the grim Alligators that swam in sluggish sullenness. In going up a
bayou, we caught a great number of the young of the latter for the
purpose of making experiments upon them.
After sailing a considerable way, during which our commander and
officers took the soundings, as well as the angles and bearings of every
nook and crook of the sinuous stream, we anchored one evening at a
distance of fully one hundred miles from the mouth of the river. The
weather, although it was the 12th of February, was quite warm, the
thermometer on board standing at 75 deg., and on shore at 90 deg.. The fog was
so thick that neither of the shores could be seen, and yet the river was
not a mile in breadth. The "blind mosquitoes" covered every object, even
in the cabin, and so wonderfully abundant were these tormentors that
they more than once fairly extinguished the candles whilst I was writing
my journal, which I closed in despair, crushing between the leaves more
than a hundred of the little wretches. Bad as they are, however, these
blind mosquitoes do not bite. As if purposely to render our situation
doubly uncomfortable, there was an establishment for jerking beef on the
nearer shores, to the windward of our vessel, from which the breeze came
laden with no sweet odors.
In the morning when I arose, the country was still covered with thick
fogs, so that although I could plainly hear the notes of the birds on
shore, not an object could I see beyond the bowsprit, and the air was as
close and sultry as on the previous evening. Guided by the scent of the
jerkers' works we went on shore, where we found the vegetation already
far advanced. The blossoms of the jessamine, ever pleasing, lay steeped
in dew, the humming bee was collecting her winter's store from the
snowy flowers of the native orange; and the little warblers frisked
along the twigs of the smilax. Now, amid the tall pines of the forest,
the sun's rays began to force their way, and as the dense mists
dissolved in the atmosphere, the bright luminary at length shone forth.
We explored the woods around, guided by some friendly live-oakers who
had pitched their camp in the vicinity. After a while the "Spark" again
displayed her sails, and as she silently glided along, we spied a
Seminole Indian approaching us in his canoe. The poor, dejected son of
the woods, endowed with talents of the highest order, although rarely
acknowledged by the proud usurpers of his native soil, has spent the
night in fishing, and the morning in procuring the superb feathered game
of the swampy thickets; and with both he comes to offer them for our
acceptance. Alas! thou fallen one, descendant of an ancient line of
freeborn hunters, would that I could restore to thee thy birthright, thy
natural independence, the generous feelings that were once fostered in
thy brave bosom. But the irrevocable deed is done, and I can merely
admire the perfect symmetry of his frame, as he dexterously throws on
our deck the Trout and Turkeys which he has captured. He receives a
recompense, and without smile or bow, or acknowledgment of any kind, off
he starts with the speed of an arrow from his own bow.
Alligators were extremely abundant, and the heads of the fishes which
they had snapped off, lay floating around on the dark waters. A rifle
bullet was now and then sent through the eye of one of the largest,
which, with a tremendous splash of its tail, expired. One morning we saw
a monstrous fellow lying on the shore. I was desirous of obtaining him
to make an accurate drawing of his head, and accompanied by my assistant
and two of the sailors, proceeded cautiously towards him. When within a
few yards, one of us fired, and sent through his side an ounce ball
which tore open a hole large enough to receive a man's hand. He slowly
raised his head, bent himself upwards, opened his huge jaws, swung his
tail to and fro, rose on his legs, blew in a frightful manner, and fell
to the earth. My assistant leaped on shore, and, contrary to my
injunctions, caught hold of the animal's tail, when the alligator,
awakening from its trance, with a last effort crawled slowly towards the
water, and plunged heavily into it. Had he thought of once flourishing
his tremendous weapon, there might have been an end of his assailant's
life, but he fortunately went in peace to his grave, where we left him,
as the water was too deep. The same morning, another of equal size was
observed swimming directly for the bows of our vessel, attracted by the
gentle rippling of the water there. One of the officers, who had watched
him, fired, and scattered his brain through the air, when he tumbled and
rolled at a fearful rate, blowing all the while most furiously. The
river was bloody for yards around, but although the monster passed close
by the vessel, we could not secure him, and after a while he sunk to the
bottom.
Early one morning, I hired a boat and two men, with the view of
returning to St. Augustine by a short-cut. Our baggage being placed on
board, I bade adieu to the officers, and off we started. About four in
the afternoon we arrived at the short-cut, forty miles distant from our
point of departure, and where we had expected to procure a wagon, but
were disappointed. So we laid our things on the bank, and leaving one of
my assistants to look after them, I set out accompanied by the other and
my Newfoundland dog. We had eighteen miles to go; and as the sun was
only two hours high, we struck off at a good rate. Presently we entered
a pine-barren. The country was as level as a floor; our path, although
narrow, was well-beaten, having been used by the Seminole Indians for
ages, and the weather was calm and beautiful. Now and then a rivulet
occurred, from which we quenched our thirst, while the magnolias and
other flowering plants on its banks relieved the dull uniformity of the
woods. When the path separated into two branches, both seemingly leading
the same way, I would follow one, while my companion took the other, and
unless we met again in a short time, one of us would go across the
intervening forest.
The sun went down behind a cloud, and the southeast breeze that sprung
up at this moment, sounded dolefully among the tall pines. Along the
eastern horizon lay a bed of black vapor, which gradually rose, and soon
covered the heavens. The air felt hot and oppressive, and we knew that a
tempest was approaching. Plato was now our guide, the white spots on his
coat being the only objects that we could discern amid the darkness, and
as if aware of his utility in this respect, he kept a short way before
us on the trail. Had we imagined ourselves more than a few miles from
the town, we should have made a camp, and remained under its shelter for
the night; but conceiving that the distance could not be great, we
resolved to trudge along.
Large drops began to fall from the murky mass overhead; thick
impenetrable darkness surrounded us, and to my dismay, the dog refused
to proceed. Groping with my hands on the ground, I discovered that
several trails branched out at the spot where he lay down; and when I
had selected one, he went on. Vivid flashes of lightning streamed across
the heavens, the wind increased to a gale, and the rain poured down upon
us like a torrent. The water soon rose on the level ground so as almost
to cover our feet, and we slowly advanced, fronting the tempest. Here
and there a tall pine on fire presented a magnificent spectacle,
illumining the trees around it, and surrounding them with a halo of dim
light, abruptly bordered with the deep black of the night. At one time
we passed through a tangled thicket of low trees, at another crossed a
stream flushed by the heavy rain, and again proceeded over the open
barrens.
How long we thus, half lost, groped our way is more than I can tell you;
but at length the tempest passed over, and suddenly the clear sky became
spangled with stars. Soon after, we smelt the salt marshes, and walking
directly towards them, like pointers advancing on a covey of partridges,
we at last to our great joy descried the light of the beacon near St.
Augustine. My dog began to run briskly around, having met with ground on
which he had hunted before, and taking a direct course, led us to the
great causeway that crosses the marshes at the back of the town. We
refreshed ourselves with the produce of the first orange-tree that we
met with, and in half an hour more arrived at our hotel. Drenched with
rain, steaming with perspiration, and covered to the knees with mud, you
may imagine what figures we cut in the eyes of the good people whom we
found snugly enjoying themselves in the sitting-room. Next morning,
Major Gates, who had received me with much kindness, sent a wagon with
mules and two trusty soldiers for my companion and luggage.
THE FLORIDA KEYS
I
As the "Marion" neared the Inlet called "Indian Key," which is situated
on the eastern coast of the peninsula of Florida, my heart swelled with
uncontrollable delight. Our vessel once over the coral reef that
everywhere stretches along the shore like a great wall reared by an army
of giants, we found ourselves in safe anchoring grounds, within a few
furlongs of the land. The next moment saw the oars of a boat propelling
us towards the shore, and in brief time we stood on the desired beach.
With what delightful feelings did we gaze on the objects around us!--the
gorgeous flowers, the singular and beautiful plants, the luxuriant
trees. The balmy air which we breathed filled us with animation, so pure
and salubrious did it seem to be. The birds which we saw were almost all
new to us; their lovely forms appeared to be arrayed in more brilliant
apparel than I had ever seen before, and as they fluttered in happy
playfulness among the bushes, or glided over the light green waters, we
longed to form a more intimate acquaintance with them.
Students of nature spend little time in introductions, especially when
they present themselves to persons who feel an interest in their
pursuits. This was the case with Mr. Thruston, the deputy collector of
the island, who shook us all heartily by the hand, and in a trice had a
boat manned, and at our service. Accompanied by him, his pilot and
fishermen, off we went, and after a short pull landed on a large key.
Few minutes had elapsed when shot after shot might be heard, and down
came whirling through the air the objects of our desire. One thrust
himself into the tangled groves that covered all but the beautiful coral
beach that in a continued line bordered the island, while others gazed
on the glowing and diversified hues of the curious inhabitants of the
deep. I saw one of my party rush into the limpid element to seize on a
crab, that, with claws extended upward, awaited his approach, as if
determined not to give way. A loud voice called him back to the land,
for sharks are as abundant along these shores as pebbles, and the hungry
prowlers could not have found a more savory dinner.
The pilot, besides being a first-rate shot, possessed a most intimate
acquaintance with the country. He had been a "conch diver," and no
matter what number of fathoms measured the distance between the surface
of the water and its craggy bottom, to seek for curious shells in their
retreat seemed to him more pastime than toil. Not a Cormorant or
Pelican, a Flamingo, an Ibis, or Heron had ever in his days formed its
nest without his having marked the spot; and as to the Keys to which the
Doves are wont to resort, he was better acquainted with them than many
fops are with the contents of their pockets. In a word, he positively
knew every channel that led to these islands, and every cranny along
their shores. For years his employment had been to hunt those singular
animals called Sea-cows or Manatees, and he had conquered hundreds of
them, "merely," as he said, because the flesh and hide bring "a fair
price" at Havana. He never went anywhere to land without "Long Tom,"
which proved indeed to be a wonderful gun, and which made smart havoc
when charged with "groceries" a term by which he designated the large
shot he used. In like manner, he never paddled his light canoe without
having by his side the trusty javelin with which he unerringly
transfixed such fishes as he thought fit either for market or for his
own use. In attacking Turtles, netting, or overturning them, I doubt if
his equal ever lived on the Florida coast. No sooner was he made
acquainted with my errand, than he freely offered his best services, and
from that moment until I left Key West he was seldom out of my hearing.
While the young gentlemen who accompanied us were engaged in procuring
plants, shells, and small birds, he tapped me on the shoulder, and with
a smile said to me, "Come along, I'll show you something better worth
your while." To the boat we betook ourselves, with the captain and only
a pair of tars, for more he said would not answer. The yawl for a while
was urged at a great rate, but as we approached a point, the oars were
taken in, and the pilot alone sculling desired us to make ready, for in
a few minutes we should have "rare sport." As we advanced, the more
slowly did we move, and the most profound silence was maintained, until
suddenly coming almost in contact with a thick shrubbery of mangroves,
we beheld, right before us, a multitude of Pelicans. A discharge of
artillery seldom produced more effect; the dead, the dying, and the
wounded, fell from the trees upon the water, while those unscathed flew
screaming through the air in terror and dismay. "There," said he, "did
not I tell you so; is it not rare sport?" The birds, one after another,
were lodged under the gunwales, when the pilot desired the captain to
order the lads to pull away. Within about half a mile we reached the
extremity of the Key. "Pull away," cried the pilot, "never mind them on
the wing, for those black rascals don't mind a little firing--now, boys,
lay her close under the nests." And there we were with four hundred
Cormorant's nests over our heads. The birds were sitting, and when we
fired, the number that dropped as if dead, and plunged into the water
was such, that I thought by some unaccountable means or other we had
killed the whole colony. You would have smiled at the loud laugh and
curious gestures of the pilot. "Gentlemen," said he, "almost a blank
shot!" And so it was, for, on following the birds as one after another
peeped up from the water, we found only a few unable to take to wing.
"Now," said the pilot, "had you waited until _I had spoken_ to the black
villains, you might have killed a score or more of them." On inspection,
we found that our shots had lodged in the tough dry twigs of which these
birds form their nests, and that we had lost the more favorable
opportunity of hitting them, by not waiting until they rose. "Never
mind," said the pilot, "if you wish it, you may load _The Lady of the
Green Mantle_[55] with them in less than a week. Stand still, my lads;
and now, gentlemen, in ten minutes you and I will bring down a score of
them." And so we did. As we rounded the island, a beautiful bird of the
species called Peale's Egret came up, and was shot. We now landed, took
in the rest of our party, and returned to Indian Key, where we arrived
three hours before sunset.
The sailors and other individuals to whom my name and pursuits had
become known, carried our birds to the pilot's house. His good wife had
a room ready for me to draw in, and my assistant might have been seen
busily engaged in skinning, while George Lehman was making a sketch of
the lovely isle.
Time is ever precious to the student of nature. I placed several birds
in their natural attitudes, and began to outline them. A dance had been
prepared also, and no sooner was the sun lost to our eye, than males and
females, including our captain and others from the vessel, were seen
advancing gayly towards the house in full apparel. The birds were
skinned, the sketch was on paper, and I told my young men to amuse
themselves. As to myself, I could not join in the merriment, for, full
of the remembrance of you, reader, and of the patrons of my work both in
America and in Europe, I went on "grinding"--not on an organ, like the
Lady of Bras d'Or, but on paper, to the finishing not merely of my
outlines, but of my notes respecting the objects seen this day.
The room adjoining that in which I worked was soon filled. Two miserable
fiddlers screwed their screeching, silken strings,--not an inch of
catgut graced their instruments,--and the bouncing of brave lads and
fair lasses shook the premises to the foundation. One with a slip came
down heavily on the floor, and the burst of laughter that followed
echoed over the isle. Diluted claret was handed round to cool the
ladies, while a beverage of more potent energies warmed their partners.
After supper our captain returned to the "Marion," and I, with my young
men, slept in light swinging hammocks under the eaves of the piazza.
It was the end of April, when the nights were short, and the days
therefore long. Anxious to turn every moment to account, we were on
board Mr. Thruston's boat at three next morning. Pursuing our way
through the deep and tortuous channels that everywhere traverse the
immense muddy soap-like flats that stretch from the outward Keys to the
Main, we proceeded on our voyage of discovery. Here and there we met
with great beds of floating sea-weeds, which showed us that Turtles were
abundant there, these masses being the refuse of their feeding. On
talking to Mr. Thruston of the nature of these muddy flats, he mentioned
that he had once been lost amongst their narrow channels for several
days and nights, when in pursuit of some smugglers' boat, the owners of
which were better acquainted with the place than the men who were along
with him. Although in full sight of several of the Keys, as well as of
the main land, he was unable to reach either until a heavy gale raised
the water, when he sailed directly over the flats, and returned home
almost exhausted with fatigue and hunger. His present pilot often
alluded to the circumstance afterwards, ending with a great laugh, and
asserting that had he "been there, the rascals would not have escaped."
Coming under a Key on which multitudes of Frigate Pelicans had begun to
form their nests, we shot a good number of them, and observed their
habits. The boastings of our pilot were here confirmed by the exploits
which he performed with his long gun, and on several occasions he
brought down a bird from a height of fully a hundred yards. The poor
bird, unaware of the range of our artillery, sailed calmly along, so
that it was not difficult for "Long Tom," or rather for his owner, to
furnish us with as many as we required. The day was spent in this
manner, and towards night we returned, laden with booty, to the
hospitable home of the pilot.
The next morning was delightful. The gentle sea-breeze glided over the
flowery isle, the horizon was clear, and all was silent, save the long
breakers that rushed over the distant reefs. As we were proceeding
towards some Keys seldom visited by men, the sun rose from the bosom of
the waters with a burst of glory that flashed on my soul the idea of
that power which called into existence so magnificent an object. The
moon, thin and pale, as if ashamed to show her feeble light, concealed
herself in the dim west. The surface of the waters shone in its
tremulous smoothness, and the deep blue of the clear heavens was pure as
the world that lies beyond them. The Heron heavily flew towards the
land, like a glutton retiring at daybreak, with well lined paunch, from
the house of some wealthy patron of good cheer. The Night Heron and the
Owl, fearful of day, with hurried flight sought safety in the recesses
of the deepest swamps; while the Gulls and Terns, ever cheerful,
gambolled over the water, exulting in the prospect of abundance. I also
exulted in hope, my whole frame seemed to expand; and our sturdy crew
showed by their merry faces that nature had charms for them too. How
much of beauty and joy is lost to them who never view the rising sun,
and of whose waking existence, the best half is nocturnal.
Twenty miles our men had to row before we reached "Sandy Island," and as
on its level shores we all leaped, we plainly saw the southernmost cape
of the Floridas. The flocks of birds that covered the shelly beaches,
and those hovering overhead, so astonished us that we could for a while
scarcely believe our eyes. The first volley procured a supply of food
sufficient for two days' consumption. Such tales, you have already been
told, are well enough at a distance from the place to which they refer;
but you will doubtless be still more surprised when I tell you that our
first fire among a crowd of the Great Godwits laid prostrate sixty-five
of these birds. Rose-colored Curlews stalked gracefully beneath the
mangroves. Purple Herons rose at almost every step we took, and each
cactus supported the nest of a White Ibis. The air was darkened by
whistling wings, while, on the waters, floated Gallinules and other
interesting birds. We formed a kind of shed with sticks and grass, the
sailor cook commenced his labors, and ere long we supplied the
deficiencies of our fatigued frames. The business of the day over, we
secured ourselves from insects by means of mosquito-nets, and were
lulled to rest by the cacklings of the beautiful Purple Gallinules!
In the morning we rose from our sandy beds, and--
THE FLORIDA KEYS
II
I left you abruptly, perhaps uncivilly, reader, at the dawn of day, on
Sandy Island, which lies just six miles from the extreme point of South
Florida. I did so because I was amazed at the appearance of things
around me, which in fact looked so different then from what they seemed
at night, that it took some minutes' reflection to account for the
change. When we laid ourselves down in the sand to sleep, the waters
almost bathed our feet; when we opened our eyes in the morning, they
were at an immense distance. Our boat lay on her side, looking not
unlike a whale reposing on a mud bank. The birds in myriads were probing
their exposed pasture-ground. There great flocks of Ibises fed apart
from equally large collections of Godwits, and thousands of Herons
gracefully paced along, ever and anon thrusting their javelin bills into
the body of some unfortunate fish confined in a small pool of water. Of
Fish-Crows, I could not estimate the number, but from the havoc they
made among the crabs, I conjecture that these animals must have been
scarce by the time of next ebb. Frigate Pelicans chased the Jager, which
himself had just robbed a poor Gull of its prize, and all the
Gallinules, ran with spread wings from the mud-banks to the thickets of
the island, so timorous had they become when they perceived us.
Surrounded as we were by so many objects that allured us, not one could
we yet attain, so dangerous would it have been to venture on the mud;
and our pilot, having assured us that nothing could be lost by waiting,
spoke of our eating, and on this hint told us that he would take us to a
part of the island where "our breakfast would be abundant although
uncooked." Off we went, some of the sailors carrying baskets, others
large tin pans and wooden vessels, such as they use for eating their
meals in. Entering a thicket of about an acre in extent, we found on
every bush several nests of the Ibis, each containing three large and
beautiful eggs, and all hands fell to gathering. The birds gave way to
us, and ere long we had a heap of eggs that promised delicious food. Nor
did we stand long in expectation, for, kindling a fire, we soon prepared
in one way or other enough to satisfy the cravings of our hungry maws.
Breakfast ended, the pilot, looking at the gorgeous sunrise, said:
"Gentlemen, prepare yourselves for fun; the tide is coming."