and reprimed my gun, and I felt determined to shoot the first that
should rise from the grass. As I cautiously proceeded, a hand was
raised over the weeds, and waved in the air in the most supplicating
manner. I levelled my gun about a foot below it, when the next moment
the head and breast of a man covered with blood were convulsively
raised, and a faint hoarse voice asked me for mercy and help! A
deathlike silence followed his fall to the ground. I surveyed every
object around with eyes intent, and ears impressible by the slightest
sound, for my situation that moment I thought as critical as any I
had ever been in. The croaking of the frogs, and the last Blackbirds
alighting on their roosts, were the only sounds or sights; and I now
proceeded towards the object of my mingled alarm and commiseration.
"Alas! the poor being who lay prostrate at my feet was so weakened by
loss of blood that I had nothing to fear from him. My first impulse
was to run back to the water, and having done so, I returned with my
cap filled to the brim. I felt at his heart, washed his face and
breast, and rubbed his temples with the contents of a phial which I
kept about me as an antidote for the bites of snakes. His features,
seamed by the ravages of time, looked frightful and disgusting; but he
had been a powerful man, as the breadth of his chest plainly showed.
He groaned in the most appalling manner, as his breath struggled
through the mass of blood that seemed to fill his throat. His dress
plainly disclosed his occupation. A large pistol he had thrust into
his bosom, a naked cutlass lay near him on the ground, a red silk
handkerchief was bound over his projecting brows, and over a pair of
loose trousers he wore fisherman's boots. He was, in short, a pirate.
"My exertions were not in vain, for as I continued to bathe his
temples he revived, his pulse resumed some strength, and I began to
hope that he might perhaps survive the deep wounds he had received.
Darkness, deep darkness, now enveloped us. I spoke of making a fire.
'Oh! for mercy's sake,' he exclaimed, 'don't.' Knowing, however, that
under existing circumstances it was expedient for me to do so, I left
him, went to his boat, and brought the rudder, the benches, and the
oars, which with my hatchet I soon splintered. I then struck a light,
and presently stood in the glare of a blazing fire. The pirate seemed
struggling between terror and gratitude for my assistance; he desired
me several times in half English and Spanish to put out the flames;
but after I had given him a draught of strong spirits, he at length
became more composed. I tried to stanch the blood that flowed from the
deep gashes in his shoulders and side. I expressed my regret that I
had no food about me, but when I spoke of eating he sullenly waved his
head.
"My situation was one of the most extraordinary that I have ever been
placed in. I naturally turned my talk towards religious subjects, but,
alas, the dying man hardly believed in the existence of a God.
'Friend,' said he, 'for friend you seem to be, I have never studied
the ways of Him of whom you talk. I am an outlaw, perhaps you will say
a wretch--I have been for many years a pirate. The instructions of my
parents were of no avail to me, for I have always believed that I was
born to be a most cruel man. I now lie here, about to die in the
weeds, because I long ago refused to listen to their many admonitions.
Do not shudder when I tell you--these now useless hands murdered the
mother whom they had embraced. I feel that I have deserved the pangs
of the wretched death that hovers over me; and I am thankful that one
of my kind will alone witness my last gaspings.'
"A fond but feeble hope that I might save his life, and perhaps assist
in procuring his pardon, induced me to speak to him on the subject.
'It is all in vain, friend--I have no objection to die--I am glad that
the villains who wounded me were not my conquerors--I want no pardon
from _any one_. Give me some water, and let me die alone.' With the
hope that I might learn from his conversation something that might
lead to the capture of his guilty associates, I returned from the
creek with another capful of water, nearly the whole of which I
managed to introduce into his parched mouth, and begged him, for the
sake of his future peace, to disclose his history to me. 'It is
impossible,' said he; 'there will not be time, the beatings of my
heart tell me so. Long before day these sinewy limbs will be
motionless. Nay, there will hardly be a drop of blood in my body; and
that blood will only serve to make the grass grow. My wounds are
mortal, and I must and will die without what you call confession.'
"The moon rose in the east. The majesty of her placid beauty impressed
me with reverence. I pointed towards her, and asked the pirate if he
could not recognize God's features there. 'Friend, I see what you are
driving at,' was his answer; 'you, like the rest of our enemies, feel
the desire of murdering us all. Well--be it so. To die is, after all,
nothing more than a jest; and were it not for the pain, no one, in my
opinion, need care a jot about it. But, as you really have befriended
me, I will tell you all that is proper.'
"Hoping his mind might take a useful turn, I again bathed his temples,
and washed his lips with spirits. His sunk eyes seemed to dart fire at
mine; a heavy and deep sigh swelled his chest, and struggled through
his blood-choked throat, and he asked me to raise him for a little. I
did so, when he addressed me somewhat as follows; for, as I have told
you, his speech was a mixture of Spanish, French, and English, forming
a jargon the like of which I had never heard before, and which I am
utterly unable to imitate. However, I shall give you the substance of
his declaration.
"'First, tell me how many bodies you found in the boat, and what sort
of dresses they had on.' I mentioned their number and described their
apparel. 'That's right,' said he; 'they are the bodies of the
scoundrels who followed me in that infernal Yankee barge. Bold rascals
they were, for when they found the water too shallow for their craft,
they took to it, and waded after me. All my companions had been shot,
and to lighten my own boat I flung them overboard; but as I lost time
in this, the two ruffians caught hold of my gunwale, and struck on my
head and body in such a manner that after I had disabled and killed
them both in the boat, I was scarce able to move. The other villains
carried off our schooner and one of our boats, and perhaps ere now
have hung all my companions whom they did not kill at the time. I have
commanded my beautiful vessel many years, captured many ships, and
sent many rascals to the devil. I always hated the Yankees, and only
regret that I have not killed more of them.--I sailed from
Matanzas.--I have often been in concert with others. I have money
without counting, but it is buried where it will never be found, and
it would be useless to tell you of it.' His throat filled with blood,
his voice failed, the cold hand of death was laid on his brow; feebly
and hurriedly he muttered, 'I am a dying man. Farewell!'
"Alas! it is painful to see death in any shape; in this it was
horrible, for there was no hope. The rattling of his throat announced
the moment of dissolution, and already did the body fall on my arms
with a weight that was insupportable. I laid him on the ground. A mass
of dark blood poured from his mouth; then came a frightful groan, the
last breathing of that foul spirit; and what now lay at my feet in the
wild desert?--a mangled mass of clay!
"The remainder of that night was passed in no enviable mood; but my
feelings cannot be described. At dawn I dug a hole with the paddle of
my canoe, rolled the body into it, and covered it. On reaching the
boat I found several buzzards feeding on the bodies, which I in vain
attempted to drag to the shore. I therefore covered them with mud and
weeds, and launching my canoe, paddled from the cove with a secret joy
for my escape, overshadowed with the gloom of mingled dread and
abhorrence."
THE WRECKERS OF FLORIDA
Long before I reached the lovely islets that border the southeastern
shores of the Floridas, the accounts I had heard of "The Wreckers" had
deeply prejudiced me against them. Often had I been informed of the
cruel and cowardly methods which it was alleged they employed to allure
vessels of all nations to the dreaded reefs, that they might plunder
their cargoes, and rob their crews and passengers of their effects. I
therefore could have little desire to meet with such men under any
circumstances, much less to become liable to receive their aid; and with
the name of Wreckers there were associated in my mind ideas of piratical
depredations, barbarous usage, and even murder.
One fair afternoon, while I was standing on the polished deck of the
United States revenue cutter, the "Marion," a sail hove in sight,
bearing in an opposite course, and close-hauled to the wind. The gentle
rake of her masts, as she rocked to and fro in the breeze, brought to my
mind the wavings of the reeds on the fertile banks of the Mississippi.
By and by the vessel, altering her course, approached us. The "Marion,"
like a sea-bird with extended wings, swept through the waters, gently
inclining to either side, while the unknown vessel leaped as it were,
from wave to wave, like the dolphin in eager pursuit of his prey. In a
short time we were gliding side by side, and the commander of the
strange schooner saluted our captain, who promptly returned the
compliment. What a beautiful vessel! we all thought; how trim, how clean
rigged, and how well manned! She swims like a duck; and now with a broad
sheer, off she makes for the reefs a few miles under our lee. There, in
that narrow passage, well known to her commander, she rolls, tumbles,
and dances, like a giddy thing, her copper sheathing now gleaming and
again disappearing under the waves. But the passage is thridded, and
now, hauling on the wind, she resumes her former course, and gradually
recedes from the view. Reader, it was a Florida Wrecker.
When at the Tortugas, I paid a visit to several vessels of this kind, in
company with my excellent friend Robert Day, Esq. We had observed the
regularity and quickness of the men then employed at their arduous
tasks, and as we approached the largest schooner, I admired her form, so
well adapted to her occupation, her great breadth of beam, her light
draught, the correctness of her water-line, the neatness of her painted
sides, the smoothness of her well-greased masts, and the beauty of her
rigging. We were welcomed on board with all the frankness of our native
tars. Silence and order prevailed on her decks. The commander and the
second officer led us into a spacious cabin, well-lighted, and furnished
with every convenience for fifteen or more passengers. The former
brought me his collection of marine shells, and whenever I pointed to
one that I had not seen before, offered it with so much kindness that I
found it necessary to be careful in expressing my admiration of any
particular shell. He had also many eggs of rare birds, which were all
handed over to me, with an assurance that before the month should
expire, a new set could easily be procured; "for," said he, "we have
much idle time on the reefs at this season." Dinner was served, and we
partook of their fare, which consisted of fish, fowl, and other
materials. These rovers, who were both from "down east," were stout,
active men, cleanly and smart in their attire. In a short time we were
all extremely social and merry. They thought my visit to the Tortugas,
in quest of birds, was rather a "curious fancy;" but, notwithstanding,
they expressed their pleasure while looking at some of my drawings, and
offered their services in procuring specimens. Expeditions far and near
were proposed, and on settling that one of them was to take place on the
morrow, we parted friends.
Early next morning, several of these kind men accompanied me to a small
Key called Booby Island, about ten miles distant from the lighthouse.
Their boats were well-manned, and rowed with long and steady strokes,
such as whalers and men-of-war's men are wont to draw. The captain sang,
and at times, by way of frolic, ran a race with our own beautiful bark.
The Booby Isle was soon reached, and our sport there was equal to any we
had elsewhere. They were capital shots, had excellent guns, and knew
more about Boobies and Noddies than nine-tenths of the best naturalists
in the world. But what will you say when I tell you the Florida Wreckers
are excellent at a Deer hunt, and that at certain seasons, "when
business is slack," they are wont to land on some extensive Key, and in
a few hours procure a supply of delicious venison.
Some days afterwards, the same party took me on an expedition in quest
of sea shells. There we were all in water, at times to the waist, and
now and then much deeper. Now they would dip, like ducks, and on
emerging would hold up a beautiful shell. This occupation they seemed to
enjoy above all others.
The duties of the "Marion," having been performed, intimation of our
intended departure reached the Wreckers. An invitation was sent to me to
go and see them on board their vessels, which I accepted. Their object
on this occasion was to present me with some superb corals, shells, live
Turtles of the Hawk-bill species, and a great quantity of eggs. Not a
"picayune" would they receive in return, but putting some letters in my
hands, requested me "to be so good as to put them in the mail at
Charleston," adding that they were for their wives "down east." So
anxious did they appear to be to do all they could for me, that they
proposed to sail before the "Marion," and meet her under way, to give me
some birds that were rare on the coast, and of which they knew the
haunts. Circumstances connected with "the service" prevented this,
however, and with sincere regret, and a good portion of friendship, I
bade these excellent fellows adieu. How different, thought I, is often
the knowledge of things acquired by personal observation from that
obtained by report!
I had never before seen Florida Wreckers, nor has it since been my
fortune to fall in with any; but my good friend Dr. Benjamin Strobel,
having furnished me with a graphic account of a few days which he spent
with them, I shall present you with it in his own words:--
"On the 12th day of September, while lying in harbor at Indian Key, we
were joined by five wrecking vessels. Their licenses having expired, it
was necessary to go to Key West to renew them. We determined to
accompany them the next morning; and here it will not be amiss for me to
say a few words respecting these far-famed Wreckers, their captains and
crews. From all that I had heard, I expected to see a parcel of dirty,
pirate-looking vessels, officered and manned by a set of black-whiskered
fellows, who carried murder in their very looks. I was agreeably
surprised on discovering the vessels were fine large sloops and
schooners, regular clippers, kept in first-rate order. The captains
generally were jovial, good-natured sons of Neptune who manifested a
disposition to be polite and hospitable, and to afford every facility to
persons passing up and down the Reef. The crews were hearty,
well-dressed and honest-looking men.
"On the 13th, at the appointed hour, we all set sail together; that is,
the five Wreckers and the schooner 'Jane.' As our vessel was not noted
for fast sailing, we accepted an invitation to go on board of a Wrecker.
The fleet got under way about eight o'clock in the morning, the wind
light but fair, the water smooth, the day fine. I can scarcely find
words to express the pleasure and gratification which I this day
experienced. The sea was of a beautiful, soft, pea-green color, smooth
as a sheet of glass, and as transparent, its surface agitated only by
our vessels as they parted its bosom, or by the Pelican in pursuit of
his prey, which rising for a considerable distance in the air, would
suddenly plunge down with distended mandibles, and secure his food. The
vessels of our little fleet with every sail set that could catch a
breeze, and the white foam curling round the prows, glided silently
along, like islands of flitting shadows, on an immovable sea of light.
Several fathoms below the surface of the water, and under us, we saw
great quantities of fish diving and sporting among the sea-grass,
sponges, sea-feathers, and corals, with which the bottom was covered. On
our right hand were the Florida Keys, which, as we made them in the
distance, looked like specks upon the surface of the water, but as we
neared them, rose to view as if by enchantment, clad in the richest
livery of spring, each variety of color and hue rendered soft and
delicate by a clear sky and a brilliant sun overhead. All was like a
fairy scene; my heart leaped up in delighted admiration, and I could not
but exclaim, in the language of Scott,--
'Those seas behold
Round thrice an hundred islands rolled.
The trade wind played round us with balmy and refreshing sweetness; and,
to give life and animation to the scene, we had a contest for the
mastery between all the vessels of the fleet, while a deep interest was
excited in favor of this or that vessel, as she shot ahead, or fell
astern.
"About three o'clock in the afternoon, we arrived off the Bay of Honda.
The wind being light and no prospect of reaching Key West that night, it
was agreed that we should make a harbor here. We entered a beautiful
basin, and came to anchor about four o'clock. Boats were got out, and
several hunting parties formed. We landed, and were soon on the scent,
some going in search of shells, others of birds. An Indian, who had been
picked up somewhere along the coast by a Wrecker, and who was employed
as a hunter, was sent ashore in search of venison. Previous to his
leaving the vessel, a rifle was loaded with a single ball and put into
his hands. After an absence of several hours, he returned with two Deer,
which he had killed at a single shot. He watched until they were both in
range of his gun, side by side, when he fired and brought them down.
"All hands having returned, and the fruits of our excursion being
collected, we had wherewithal to make an abundant supper. Most of the
game was sent on board the largest vessel, where we proposed supping.
Our vessels were all lying within hail of each other, and as soon as the
moon arose, boats were seen passing from vessel to vessel, and all were
busily and happily engaged in exchanging civilities. One could never
have supposed that these men were professional rivals, so apparent was
the good feeling that prevailed among them. About nine o'clock we
started for supper; a number of persons had already collected, and as
soon as we arrived on board the vessel, a German sailor, who played
remarkably well on the violin, was summoned on the quarter-deck, when
all hands, with a good will, cheerily danced to lively airs until supper
was ready. The table was laid in the cabin, and groaned under its load
of venison, Wild Ducks, Pigeons, Curlews, and fish. Toasting and singing
succeeded the supper, and among other curious matters introduced, the
following song was sung by the German fiddler, who accompanied his voice
with his instrument. He is said to be the author of the song. I say
nothing of the poetry, but merely give it as it came on my ear. It is
certainly very characteristic:--
THE WRECKERS' SONG.
Come, ye good people, one and all,
Come listen to my song;
A few remarks I have to make,
Which won't be very long.
'Tis of our vessel, stout and good
As ever yet was built of wood,
Along the reef where the breakers roar,
The Wreckers on the Florida shore!
Key Tavernier's our rendezvous;
At anchor there we lie,
And see the vessels in the Gulf,
Carelessly passing by.
When night comes on we dance and sing,
Whilst the current some vessel is floating in;
When daylight comes, a ship's on shore,
Among the rocks where the breakers roar.
When daylight dawns we're under way,
And every sail is set,
And if the wind it should prove light,
Why, then our sails we wet.
To gain her first each eager strives,
To save the cargo and the people's lives,
Amongst the rocks where the breakers roar,
The Wreckers on the Florida shore.
When we get 'longside we find she's bilged;
We know well what to do,
Save the cargo that we can.
The sails and rigging too;
Then down to Key West we soon will go,
When quickly our salvage we shall know;
When everything it is fairly sold,
Our money down to us it is told.
Then one week's _cruise_ we'll have on shore,
Before we do sail again,
And drink success to the sailor lads
That are ploughing of the main.
And when you are passing by this way,
On the Florida reef should you chance to stray,
Why we will come to you on the shore,
Amongst the rocks where the breakers roar.
Great emphasis was laid upon particular words by the singer, who had a
broad German accent. Between the verses he played an interlude,
remarking, 'Gentlemen, I makes dat myself.' The chorus was trolled by
twenty or thirty voices, which, in the stillness of the night, produced
no unpleasant effect."
ST. JOHN'S RIVER IN FLORIDA
Soon after landing at St. Augustine, in East Florida, I formed
acquaintance with Dr. Simmons, Dr. Porcher, Judge Smith, the Misses
Johnson, and other individuals, my intercourse with whom was as
agreeable as beneficial to me. Lieutenant Constantine Smith, of the
United States army, I found of a congenial spirit, as was the case with
my amiable but since deceased friend, Dr. Bell of Dublin. Among the
planters who extended their hospitality to me, I must particularly
mention General Hernandez, and my esteemed friend John Bulow, Esq. To
all these estimable individuals I offer my sincere thanks.
While in this part of the peninsula I followed my usual avocation,
although with little success, it then being winter. I had letters from
the Secretaries of the Navy and Treasury of the United States, to the
commanding officers of vessels of war of the revenue service, directing
them to afford me any assistance in their power; and the schooner
"Spark" having come to St. Augustine, on her way to the St. John's
River, I presented my credentials to her commander Lieutenant Piercy,
who readily and with politeness received me and my assistants on board.
We soon after set sail with a fair breeze. The strict attention to duty
on board even this small vessel of war, afforded matter of surprise to
me. Everything went on with the regularity of a chronometer: orders were
given, answered to, and accomplished, before they had ceased to vibrate
on the ear. The neatness of the crew equalled the cleanliness of the
white planks of the deck; the sails were in perfect condition; and,
built as the "Spark" was, for swift sailing, on she went, gambolling
from wave to wave.
[Illustration: TRINGA ALPINA, RED-BACKED SANDPIPER.
(Now Pelidna alpina pacifica.)
FROM THE UNPUBLISHED DRAWING BY J. J. AUDUBON, NOVEMBER 24, 1831.]
I thought that, while thus sailing, no feeling but that of pleasure
could exist in our breasts; but, alas! how fleeting are our enjoyments.
When we were almost at the entrance of the river, the wind changed, the
sky became clouded, and, before many minutes had elapsed, the little
bark was lying to "like a Duck," as her commander expressed himself. It
blew a hurricane--let it blow, reader. At break of day we were again at
anchor within the bar of St. Augustine.
Our next attempt was successful. Not many hours after we had crossed the
bar, we perceived the star-like glimmer of the light in the great
lantern at the entrance of the St. John's River. This was before
daylight; and, as the crossing of the sand-banks or bars, which occur at
the mouths of all the streams of this peninsula is difficult, and can be
accomplished only when the tide is up, one of the guns was fired as a
signal for the government pilot. The good man, it seemed, was unwilling
to leave his couch, but a second gun brought him in his canoe alongside.
The depth of the channel was barely sufficient. My eyes, however, were
not directed towards the waters, but on high, where flew some thousands
of snowy Pelicans, which had fled affrighted from their resting-grounds.
How beautifully they performed their broad gyrations, and how matchless,
after a while, was the marshalling of their files, as they flew past us.