commanded by Joseph Hatch, Esq., of Kennebunk, bound for Liverpool. The
steamer "Hercules," which towed the ship, left us several miles outside
of the Balize, about ten hours after our departure; but there was not a
breath of wind, the waters were smoother than the prairies of the
Opelousas, and notwithstanding our great display of canvas, we lay like
a dead whale, floating at the mercy of the currents. The weather was
uncommonly fair, and the heat excessive; and in this helpless state we
continued for many days. About the end of a week we had lost sight of
the Balize, although I was assured by the commander that all this while
the ship had rarely answered the helm. The sailors whistled for wind,
and raised their hands in all directions, anxious as they were to feel
some motion in the air; but all to no purpose; it was a dead calm, and
we concluded that "AEolus" had agreed with "Neptune" to detain us, until
our patience should be fairly tried, or our sport exhausted; for sport
we certainly had, both on board and around the ship. I doubt if I can
better contribute to your amusement at present than by giving you a
short account of the occurrences that took place during this sleepy fit
of the being on whom we depended for our progress toward merry England.
Vast numbers of beautiful Dolphins glided by the side of the vessel,
glancing like burnished gold through the day, and gleaming like meteors
by night. The captain and his mates were expert at alluring them with
baited hooks, and not less so at piercing them with five-pronged
instruments, which they called grains; and I was delighted with the
sport, because it afforded me an opportunity of observing and noting
some of the habits of this beautiful fish, as well as several other
kinds.
On being hooked, the Dolphin flounces vigorously, shoots off with great
impetuosity to the very end of the line, when, being suddenly checked,
it often rises perpendicularly several feet out of the water, shakes
itself violently in the air, gets disentangled, and thus escapes. But
when well secured, it is held in play for a while by the experienced
fisher, soon becomes exhausted, and is hauled on board. Some persons
prefer pulling them in at once, but they seldom succeed, as the force
with which the fish shakes itself on being raised out of the water is
generally sufficient to enable it to extricate itself. Dolphins move in
shoals, varying from four or five to twenty or more, hunting in packs in
the waters, as Wolves pursue their prey on land. The object of their
pursuit is generally the Flying-fish, now and then the Bonita; and when
nothing better can be had, they will follow the little Rudder-fish, and
seize it immediately under the stern of the ship. The Flying-fishes
after having escaped for a while by dint of their great velocity, on
being again approached by the Dolphin, emerge from the waters, and
spreading their broad wing-like fins, sail through the air and disperse
in all directions, like a covey of timid Partridges before the rapacious
Falcon. Some pursue a direct course, others diverge on either side; but
in a short time they all drop into their natural element. While they are
travelling in the air, their keen and hungry pursuer, like a greyhound,
follows in their wake, and performing a succession of leaps, many feet
in extent, rapidly gains upon the quarry, which is often seized just as
it falls into the sea.
Dolphins manifest a very remarkable sympathy with each other. The moment
one of them is hooked or grained, those in company make up to it, and
remain around until the unfortunate fish is pulled on board, when they
generally move off together, seldom biting at anything thrown out to
them. This, however, is the case only with the larger individuals, which
keep apart from the young, in the same manner as is observed in several
species of birds; for when the smaller Dolphins are in large shoals,
they all remain under the bows of a ship, and bite in succession at any
sort of line, as if determined to see what has become of their lost
companions, in consequence of which they are often all caught.
You must not suppose that the Dolphin is without its enemies. Who, in
this world, man or fish, has not enough of them? Often it conceives
itself on the very eve of swallowing a fish, which, after all, is
nothing but a piece of lead, with a few feathers fastened to it, to make
it look like a Flying-fish, when it is seized and severed in two by the
insidious Balacouda, which I have once seen to carry off by means of its
sharp teeth, the better part of a Dolphin that was hooked, and already
hoisted to the surface of the water.
The Dolphins caught in the Gulf of Mexico during this calm were
suspected to be poisonous; and to ascertain whether this was really the
case, our cook, who was an African negro, never boiled or fried one
without placing beside it a dollar. If the silver was not tarnished by
the time the Dolphin was ready for the table, the fish was presented to
the passengers, with an assurance that it was perfectly good. But as not
a single individual of the hundred that we caught had the property of
converting silver into copper, I suspect that our African sage was no
magician.
One morning, that of the 22d of June, the weather sultry, I was
surprised on getting out of my hammock, which was slung on deck, to find
the water all around swarming with Dolphins, which were sporting in
great glee. The sailors assured me that this was a certain "token of
wind," and, as they watched the movements of the fishes, added, "ay, and
of a fair breeze too." I caught several Dolphins in the course of an
hour, after which scarcely any remained about the ship. Not a breath of
air came to our relief all that day, no, nor even the next. The sailors
were in despair, and I should probably have become despondent also, had
not my spirits been excited by finding a very large Dolphin on my hook.
When I had hauled it on board, I found it to be the largest I had ever
caught. It was a magnificent creature. See how it quivers in the agonies
of death! its tail flaps the hard deck, producing a sound like the rapid
roll of a drum. How beautiful the changes of its colors! Now it is blue,
now green, silvery, golden, and burnished copper! Now it presents a
blaze of all the hues of the rainbow intermingled; but, alack! it is
dead, and the play of its colors is no longer seen. It has settled into
the deep calm that has paralyzed the energies of the blustering winds,
and smoothed down the proud waves of the ocean.
The best bait for the Dolphin is a long strip of Shark's flesh. I think
it generally prefers this to the semblance of the Flying-fish, which
indeed it does not often seize unless when the ship is under way, and it
is made to rise to the surface. There are times, however, when hunger
and the absence of their usual food will induce the Dolphins to dash at
any sort of bait; and I have seen some caught by means of a piece of
white linen fastened to a hook. Their appetite is as keen as that of the
Vulture, and whenever a good opportunity occurs, they gorge themselves
to such a degree that they become an easy prey to their enemies the
Balacouda and the Bottle-nosed Porpoise. One that had been grained while
lazily swimming immediately under the stern of our ship, was found to
have its stomach completely crammed with Flying-fish, all regularly
disposed side by side, with their tails downwards--by which I mean to
say that the Dolphin always _swallows its prey tail-foremost_. They
looked in fact like so many salted Herrings packed in a box, and were to
the number of twenty-two, each six or seven inches in length.
The usual length of the Dolphins caught in the Gulf of Mexico is about
three feet, and I saw none that exceeded four feet two inches. The
weight of one of the latter size was only eighteen pounds; for this fish
is extremely narrow in proportion to its length, although rather deep in
its form. When just caught, the upper fin, which reaches from the
forehead to within a short distance of the tail, is of a fine dark blue.
The upper part of the body in its whole length is azure, and the lower
parts are of a golden hue, mottled irregularly with deep-blue spots. It
seems that they at times enter very shallow water, as in the course of
my last voyage along the Florida coast, some were caught in a seine,
along with their kinsman the "Cavalier," of which I shall speak
elsewhere.
The flesh of the Dolphin is rather firm, very white, and lies in flakes
when cooked. The first caught are generally eaten with great pleasure,
but when served many days in succession, they become insipid. It is not,
as an article of food, equal to the Balacouda, which is perhaps as good
as any fish caught in the waters of the Gulf of Mexico.
STILL BECALMED
On the 4th of June, we were still in the same plight, although the
currents of the Gulf had borne us to a great distance from the place
where, as I have informed you, we had amused ourselves with catching
Dolphins. These currents are certainly very singular, for they carried
us hither and thither, at one time rendering us apprehensive of drifting
on the coast of Florida, at another threatening to send us to Cuba.
Sometimes a slight motion in the air revived our hopes, swelled our
sails a little, and carried us through the smooth waters like a skater
gliding on ice; but in a few hours it was again a dead calm.
One day several small birds, after alighting on the spars, betook
themselves to the deck. One of them, a female Rice Bunting, drew our
attention more particularly, for, a few moments after her arrival, there
came down, as if in her wake, a beautiful Peregrine Falcon. The
plunderer hovered about for a while, then stationed himself on the end
of one of the yard-arms, and suddenly pouncing on the little gleaner of
the meadows, clutched her and carried her off in exultation. But,
reader, mark the date, and judge besides of my astonishment when I saw
the Falcon feeding on the Finch while on wing, precisely with the same
ease and composure as the Mississippi Kite might show while devouring
high in air a Red-throated Lizard, swept from one of the magnificent
trees of the Louisiana woods.
There was a favorite pet on board belonging to our captain, and which
was nothing more nor less than the female companion of a cock--in other
words, a common hen. Some liked her because she now and then dropped a
fresh egg--a rare article at sea, even on board the "Delos;" others,
because she exhibited a pleasing simplicity of character; others again,
because, when they had pushed her overboard, it gave them pleasure to
see the poor thing in terror strike with her feet, and strive to reach
her floating home, which she would never have accomplished, however, had
it not been for the humane interference of our captain, Mr. Joseph
Hatch, of Kennebunk. Kind, good-hearted man! when, several weeks after,
the same pet hen accidentally flew overboard, as we were scudding along
at a furious rate, I thought I saw a tear stand in his eye, as she
floated panting in our wake. But as yet we are becalmed, and heartily
displeased at old "AEolus" for overlooking us.
One afternoon we caught two Sharks. In one of them, a female, about
seven feet long, we found ten young ones, all alive, and quite capable
of swimming, as we proved by experiment; for, on casting one of them
into the sea, it immediately made off, as if it had been accustomed to
shift for itself. Of another, that had been cut in two, the head half
swam off out of our sight. The rest were cut in pieces, as was the old
shark, as bait for the Dolphins, which I have already said are fond of
such food.
Our captain, who was much intent on amusing me, informed me that the
Rudder-fishes were plentiful astern, and immediately set to dressing
hooks for the purpose of catching them. There was now some air above us,
the cotton sheets aloft bulged out, the ship moved through the water,
and the captain and I repaired to the cabin window. I was furnished with
a fine hook, a thread line, and some small bits of bacon, as was the
captain, and we dropped our bait among the myriads of delicate little
fishes below. Up they came, one after another, so fast in succession
that, according to my journal, we caught three hundred and seventy in
about two hours. What a mess! and how delicious when roasted! If ever I
am again becalmed in the Gulf of Mexico, I shall not forget the
Rudder-fish. The little things scarcely measured three inches in length;
they were thin and deep in form, and afforded excellent eating. It was
curious to see them keep to the lee of the rudder in a compact body; and
so voracious were they that they actually leaped out of the water at the
sight of the bait, as "sunnies" are occasionally wont to do in our
rivers. But the very instant that the ship became still, they dispersed
around her sides, and would no longer bite. I made a figure of one of
them, as indeed I tried to do of every other species that occurred
during this deathlike calm. Not one of these fishes did I ever see when
crossing the Atlantic, although many kinds at times come close to the
stern of any vessel in the great sea, and are called by the same name.
Another time we caught a fine Porpoise, which measured about two yards
in length. This took place at night, when the light of the moon afforded
me a clear view of the spot. The fish, contrary to custom, was grained,
instead of being harpooned; but in such a way and so effectually,
through the forehead, that it was thus held fast, and allowed to flounce
and beat about the bows of the ship, until the person who had struck it
gave the line holding the grains to the captain, slid down upon the
bob-stays with a rope, and after a while managed to secure it by the
tail. Some of the crew then hoisted it on board. When it arrived on
deck, it gave a deep groan, flapped with great force, and soon expired.
On opening it next morning, eight hours after death, we found its
intestines still warm. They were arranged in the same manner as those of
a pig; the paunch contained several cuttle-fishes partially digested.
The lower jaw extended beyond the upper about three-fourths of an inch,
and both were furnished with a single row of conical teeth, about half
an inch long, and just so far separated as to admit those of one jaw
between the corresponding ones of the other. The animal might weigh
about four hundred pounds; its eyes were extremely small, its flesh was
considered delicate by some on board; but in my opinion, if it be good,
that of a large Alligator is equally so; and on neither do I intend to
feast for some time. The captain told me that he had seen these
Porpoises leap at times perpendicularly out of the water to the height
of several feet, and that small boats have now and then been sunk by
their falling into them when engaged with their sports.
During all this time flocks of Pigeons were crossing the Gulf, between
Cuba and the Floridas; many a Rose-breasted Gull played around by day;
Noddies alighted on the rigging by night; and now and then the Frigate
bird was observed ranging high over head in the azure of the cloudless
sky.
The directions of the currents were tried, and our captain, who had an
extraordinary genius for mechanics, was frequently employed in turning
powder-horns and other articles. So calm and sultry was the weather that
we had a large awning spread, under which we took our meals and spent
the night. At length we got so wearied of it that the very sailors, I
thought, seemed disposed to leap overboard and swim to land. But at
length, on the thirty-seventh day after our departure, a smart breeze
overtook us. Presently there was an extraordinary bustle on board; about
twelve the Tortugas light-house bore north of us, and in a few hours
more we gained the Atlantic. AEolus had indeed awakened from his long
sleep; and on the nineteenth day after leaving the Capes of Florida, I
was landed at Liverpool.
GREAT EGG HARBOR
Some years ago, after having spent the spring in observing the habits of
the migratory Warblers and other land birds, which arrived in vast
numbers in the vicinity of Camden in New Jersey, I prepared to visit the
sea shores of that State, for the purpose of making myself acquainted
with their feathered inhabitants. June had commenced, the weather was
pleasant, and the country seemed to smile in the prospect of bright days
and gentle gales. Fishermen-gunners passed daily between Philadelphia
and the various small seaports, with Jersey wagons, laden with fish,
fowls, and other provisions, or with such articles as were required by
the families of those hardy boatmen; and I bargained with one of them to
take myself and my baggage to Great Egg Harbor.
One afternoon, about sunset, the vehicle halted at my lodgings, and the
conductor intimated that he was anxious to proceed as quickly as
possible. A trunk, a couple of guns, and such other articles as are
found necessary by persons whose pursuits are similar to mine, were
immediately thrust into the wagon, and were followed by their owner. The
conductor whistled to his steeds, and off we went at a round pace over
the loose and deep sand that in almost every part of this State forms
the basis of the roads. After a while we overtook a whole caravan of
similar vehicles, moving in the same direction, and when we got near
them our horses slackened their pace to a regular walk, the driver
leaped from his seat, I followed his example, and we presently found
ourselves in the midst of a group of merry wagoners, relating their
adventures of the week, it being now Saturday night. One gave intimation
of the number of "Sheep-heads" he had taken to town, another spoke of
the Curlews which yet remained on the sands, and a third boasted of
having gathered so many dozens of Marsh Hens' eggs. I inquired if
the Fish Hawks were plentiful near Great Egg Harbor, and was answered by
an elderly man, who with a laugh asked if I had ever seen the "Weak
fish" along the coast without the bird in question. Not knowing the
animal he had named, I confessed my ignorance, when the whole party
burst into a loud laugh, in which, there being nothing better for it, I
joined.
[Illustration: JOHN WOODHOUSE AUDUBON.
PAINTED BY AUDUBON ABOUT 1823.]
About midnight the caravan reached a half-way house, where we rested a
while. Several roads diverged from this spot, and the wagons separated,
one only keeping us company. The night was dark and gloomy, but the sand
of the road indicated our course very distinctly. Suddenly the galloping
of horses struck my ear, and on looking back we perceived that our wagon
must in an instant be in imminent danger. The driver leaped off, and
drew his steeds aside, barely in time to allow the runaways to pass
without injuring us. Off they went at full speed, and not long after
their owner came up panting, and informed us that they had suddenly
taken fright at some noise proceeding from the woods, but hoped they
would soon stop. Immediately after we heard a crack; then for a few
moments all was silent; but the neighing of horses presently assured us
that they had broken loose. On reaching the spot we found the wagon
upset, and a few yards farther on were the horses, quietly browsing by
the roadside.
The first dawn of morn in the Jerseys in the month of June is worthy of
a better description than I can furnish, and therefore I shall only say
that the moment the sunbeams blazed over the horizon, the loud and
mellow notes of the Meadow Lark saluted our ears. On each side of the
road were open woods, on the tallest trees of which I observed at
intervals the nest of a Fish Hawk, far above which the white-breasted
bird slowly winged its way, as it commenced its early journey to the
sea, the odor of which filled me with delight. In half an hour more we
were in the centre of Great Egg Harbor.
There I had the good fortune to be received into the house of a
thoroughbred fisherman-gunner, who, besides owning a comfortable cot
only a few hundred yards from the shore, had an excellent woman for a
wife, and a little daughter as playful as a kitten, though as wild as a
Sea-Gull. In less than half an hour I was quite at home, and the rest of
the day was spent in devotion.
Oysters, though reckoned out of season at this period, are as good as
ever when fresh from their beds, and my first meal was of some as large
and white as any I have eaten. The sight of them placed before me on a
clean table, with an honest and industrious family in my company, never
failed to afford more pleasure than the most sumptuous fare under
different circumstances; and our conversation being simple and harmless,
gayety shone in every face. As we became better acquainted, I had to
answer several questions relative to the object of my visit. The good
man rubbed his hands with joy, as I spoke of shooting and fishing, and
of long excursions through the swamps and marshes around.
My host was then, and I hope still is, a tall, strong-boned, muscular
man, of dark complexion, with eyes as keen as those of the Sea-Eagle. He
was a tough walker, laughed at difficulties, and could pull an oar with
any man. As to shooting, I have often doubted whether he or Mr. Egan,
the worthy pilot of Indian Isle, was best; and rarely indeed have I seen
either of them miss a shot.
At daybreak on Monday, I shouldered my double-barrelled gun, and my host
carried with him a long fowling-piece, a pair of oars, and a pair of
oyster-tongs, while the wife and daughter brought along a seine. The
boat was good, the breeze gentle, and along the inlets we sailed for
parts well known to my companions. To such naturalists as are qualified
to observe many different objects at the same time, Great Egg Harbor
would probably afford as ample a field as any part of our coast,
excepting the Florida Keys. Birds of many kinds are abundant, as are
fishes and testaceous animals. The forests shelter many beautiful
plants, and even on the driest sand-bar you may see insects of the most
brilliant tints. Our principal object, however, was to procure certain
birds known there by the name of Lawyers, and to accomplish this we
entered and followed for several miles a winding inlet or bayou, which
led us to the interior of a vast marsh, where after some search we found
the birds and their nests. Our seine had been placed across the channel,
and when we returned to it the tide had run out, and left in it a number
of fine fish, some of which we cooked and ate on the spot. One, which I
considered as a curiosity, was saved, and transmitted to Baron Cuvier.
Our repast ended, the seine was spread out to dry, and we again betook
ourselves to the marshes to pursue our researches until the return of
the tide. Having collected enough to satisfy us, we took up our oars,
and returned to the shore in front of the fisherman's house, where we
dragged the seine several times with success.
In this manner I passed several weeks along those delightful and healthy
shores, one day going to the woods, to search the swamps in which the
Herons bred, passing another amid the joyous cries of the Marsh Hens,
and on a third carrying slaughter among the White-breasted Sea-Gulls; by
way of amusement sometimes hauling the fish called the Sheep's-head from
an eddy along the shore, or watching the gay Terns as they danced in the
air, or plunged into the waters to seize the tiny fry. Many a drawing I
made at Great Egg Harbor, many a pleasant day I spent along its shores;
and much pleasure would it give me once more to visit the good and happy
family in whose house I resided there.
THE GREAT PINE SWAMP
I left Philadelphia, at four of the morning, by the coach, with no other
accoutrements than I knew to be absolutely necessary for the jaunt which
I intended to make. These consisted of a wooden box, containing a small
stock of linen, drawing-paper, my journal, colors, and pencils, together
with twenty-five pounds of shot, some flints, the due quantum of cash,
my gun _Tear-jacket_, and a heart as true to Nature as ever.
Our coaches are none of the best, nor do they move with the velocity of
those of some other countries. It was eight, and a dark night, when I
reached Mauch Chunk, now so celebrated in the Union for its rich
coal-mines, and eighty-eight miles distant from Philadelphia. I had
passed through a very diversified country, part of which was highly
cultivated, while the rest was yet in a state of nature, and
consequently much more agreeable to me. On alighting, I was shown to the
traveller's room, and on asking for the landlord, saw coming towards me
a fine-looking young man, to whom I made known my wishes. He spoke
kindly, and offered to lodge and board me at a much lower rate than
travellers who go there for the very simple pleasure of being dragged on
the railway. In a word, I was fixed in four minutes, and that most
comfortably.