of the agreeable kind; in proof of which I shall present you, good
reader, with an extract from one of my journals.
My money was one day stolen from me, by a person who perhaps imagined
that to a naturalist it was of little importance. This happened on the
shores of Upper Canada. The affair was as unexpected as it well could
be, and as adroitly managed as if it had been planned and executed in
Cheapside. To have repined when the thing could not be helped would
certes not have been acting manfully. I therefore told my companion to
keep a good heart, for I felt satisfied that Providence had some relief
in store for us. The whole amount of cash left with two individuals
fifteen hundred miles from home was just seven dollars and a half. Our
passage across the lake had fortunately been paid for. We embarked and
soon got to the entrance of Presque Isle Harbor, but could not pass the
bar, on account of a violent gale which came on as we approached it. The
anchor was dropped, and we remained on board during the night, feeling
at times very disagreeable, under the idea of having taken so little
care of our money. How long we might have remained at anchor I cannot
tell, had not that Providence on whom I have never ceased to rely come
to our aid. Through some means to me quite unknown, Captain Judd, of the
U.S. Navy, then probably commandant at Presque Isle, sent a gig with six
men to our relief. It was on the 29th of August, 1824, and never shall I
forget that morning. My drawings were put into the boat with the
greatest care. We shifted into it, and seated ourselves according to
directions politely given us. Our brave fellows pulled hard, and every
moment brought us nearer to the American shore. I leaped upon it with
elated heart. My drawings were safely landed, and for anything else I
cared little at the moment. I searched in vain for the officer of our
navy, to whom I still feel grateful, and gave one of our dollars to the
sailors to drink the "freedom of the waters;" after which we betook
ourselves to a humble inn to procure bread and milk, and consider how we
were to proceed.
Our plans were soon settled, for to proceed was decidedly the best. Our
luggage was rather heavy, so we hired a cart to take it to Meadville,
for which we offered five dollars. This sum was accepted, and we set
off. The country through which we passed might have proved favorable to
our pursuits, had it not rained nearly the whole day. At night we
alighted and put up at a house belonging to our conductor's father. It
was Sunday night. The good folks had not yet returned from a distant
meeting-house, the grandmother of our driver being the only individual
about the premises. We found her a cheerful dame, who bestirred herself
as actively as age would permit, got up a blazing fire to dry our wet
clothes, and put as much bread and milk on the table as might have
sufficed for several besides ourselves.
Being fatigued by the jolting of the cart, we asked for a place in which
to rest, and were shown into a room in which were several beds. We told
the good woman that I should paint her portrait next morning for the
sake of her children. My companion and myself were quickly in bed, and
soon asleep, in which state we should probably have remained till
morning, had we not been awakened by a light, which we found to be
carried by three young damsels, who, having observed where we lay, blew
it out, and got into a bed opposite to ours. As we had not spoken, it is
probable the girls supposed us sound asleep, and we heard them say how
delighted they would be to have their portraits taken, as well as that
of their grandmother. My heart silently met their desire, and we fell
asleep without further disturbance. In our backwoods it is frequently
the case that one room suffices for all the members of a family.
Day dawned, and as we were dressing we discovered that we were alone in
the apartment, the good country girls having dressed in silence, and
left us before we had awakened. We joined the family and were kindly
greeted. No sooner had I made known my intentions as to the portraits
than the young folks disappeared, and soon after returned attired in
their Sunday clothes. The black chalk was at work in a few minutes, to
their great delight, and as the fumes of the breakfast that was meantime
preparing reached my sensitive nose, I worked with redoubled ardor. The
sketches were soon finished, and soon too was the breakfast over. I
played a few airs on my flageolet, while our guide was putting the
horses to the cart, and by ten o'clock we were once more under way
towards Meadville. Never shall I forget Maxon Randell and his hospitable
family. My companion was as pleased as myself, and as the weather was
now beautiful we enjoyed our journey with all that happy thoughtlessness
best suited to our character. The country now became covered with heavy
timber, principally evergreens, the pines and the cucumber trees loaded
with brilliant fruits, and the spruces throwing a shade over the land in
good keeping for a mellow picture. The lateness of the crops was the
only disagreeable circumstance that struck us; hay was yet standing,
probably, however, a second crop; the peaches were quite small and
green, and a few persons here and there, as we passed the different
farms, were reaping oats. At length we came in sight of French Creek,
and soon after reached Meadville. Here we paid the five dollars promised
to our conductor, who instantly faced about, and applying the whip to
his nags, bade us adieu, and set off.
We had now only one hundred and fifty cents. No time was to be lost. We
put our baggage and ourselves under the roof of a tavern keeper known
by the name of J. E. Smith, at the sign of the Traveller's Rest, and
soon after took a walk to survey the little village that was to be laid
under contribution for our further support. Its appearance was rather
dull, but, thanks to God, I have never despaired while rambling thus for
the sole purpose of admiring his grand and beautiful works. I had opened
the case that contained my drawings, and putting my portfolio under my
arm, and a few good credentials in my pocket, walked up Main Street,
looking to the right and left, examining the different _heads_ which
occurred, until I fixed my eyes on a gentleman in a store who looked as
if he might want a sketch. I begged him to allow me to sit down. This
granted, I remained purposely silent until he very soon asked me what
was "_in that portfolio_." These three words sounded well, and without
waiting another instant, I opened it to his view. This was a Hollander,
who complimented me much on the execution of the drawings of birds and
flowers in my portfolio. Showing him a sketch of the best friend I have
in the world at present, I asked him if he would like one in the same
style of himself. He not only answered in the affirmative, but assured
me that he would exert himself in procuring as many more customers as he
could. I thanked him, be assured, kind reader; and having fixed upon the
next morning for drawing the sketch, I returned to the Traveller's Rest,
with a hope that to-morrow might prove propitious. Supper was ready, and
as in America we generally have but one sort of _table d'hote_, we sat
down, when, every individual looking upon me as a missionary priest, on
account of my hair, which in those days flowed loosely on my shoulders,
I was asked to say grace, which I did with a fervent spirit.
Daylight returned. I visited the groves and woods around with my
companion, returned, breakfasted, and went to the store, where,
notwithstanding my ardent desire to begin my task, it was ten o'clock
before the sitter was ready. But, reader, allow me to describe the
_artist's room_. See me ascending a crazy flight of steps, from the
back part of a store room into a large garret extending over the store
and counting room, and mark me looking round to see how the light could
be stopped from obtruding on me through no less than four windows facing
each other at right angles. Then follow me scrutinizing the corners, and
finding in one a cat nursing her young among a heap of rags intended for
the paper mill. Two hogsheads filled with oats, a parcel of Dutch toys
carelessly thrown on the floor, a large drum and a bassoon in another
part, fur caps hanging along the wall, and the portable bed of the
merchant's clerk swinging like a hammock near the centre, together with
some rolls of sole leather, made up the picture. I saw all this at a
glance, and closing the extra windows with blankets, I soon procured a
_painter's light_.
A young gentleman sat to try my skill. I finished his phiz, which was
approved of. The merchant then took the chair, and I had the good
fortune to please him also. The room became crowded with the gentry of
the village. Some laughed, while others expressed their wonder; but my
work went on, notwithstanding the observations which were made. My
sitter invited me to spend the evening with him, which I did, and joined
him in some music on the flute and violin. I returned to my companion
with great pleasure, and you may judge how much that pleasure was
increased when I found that he also had made two sketches. Having
written a page or two of our journals, we retired to rest.
The following day was spent much in the same manner. I felt highly
gratified that from under my gray coat my talents had made their way,
and I was pleased to discover that industry and moderate abilities prove
at least as valuable as first-rate talents without the former of these
qualities. We left Meadville on foot, having forwarded our baggage by
wagon. Our hearts were light, our pockets replenished, and we walked in
two days to Pittsburgh, as happy as circumstances permitted us to be.
THE BURNING OF THE FORESTS.
With what pleasure have I seated myself by the blazing fire of some
lonely cabin, when, faint with fatigue, and chilled with the piercing
blast, I had forced my way to it through the drifted snows that covered
the face of the country as with a mantle. The affectionate mother is
hushing her dear babe to repose, while a group of sturdy children
surround their father, who has just returned from the chase, and
deposited on the rough flooring of his hut the varied game which he has
procured. The great back-log, that with some difficulty has been rolled
into the ample chimney, urged, as it were, by lighted pieces of pine,
sends forth a blaze of light over the happy family. The dogs of the
hunter are already licking away the trickling waters of the thawing
icicles that sparkle over their shaggy coats, and the comfort-loving cat
is busied in passing her furry paws over each ear, or with her rough
tongue smoothing her glossy coat.
How delightful to me has it been when, kindly received and hospitably
treated under such a roof, by persons whose means were as scanty as
their generosity was great, I have entered into conversation with them
respecting subjects of interest to me, and received gratifying
information. When the humble but plentiful repast was ended, the mother
would take from the shelf the Book of books, and mildly request the
attention of her family, while the father read aloud a chapter. Then to
Heaven would ascend their humble prayers, and a good-night would be
bidden to all friends far and near. How comfortably have I laid my
wearied frame on the Buffalo hide, and covered me with the furry skin of
some huge Bear! How pleasing have been my dreams of home and happiness,
as I there lay, secure from danger and sheltered from the inclemency of
the weather.
I recollect that once while in the State of Maine, I passed such a night
as I have described. Next morning the face of nature was obscured by the
heavy rains that fell in torrents, and my generous host begged me to
remain, in such pressing terms that I was well content to accept his
offer. Breakfast over, the business of the day commenced; the
spinning-wheels went round, and the boys employed themselves, one in
searching for knowledge, another in attempting to solve some ticklish
arithmetical problem. In a corner lay the dogs, dreaming of plunder,
while close to the ashes stood grimalkin, seriously purring in concert
with the wheels. The hunter and I seated ourselves each on a stool,
while the matron looked after her domestic arrangements.
"Puss," quoth the dame, "get away; you told me last night of this day's
rain, and I fear you may now give us worse news with tricky paws." Puss
accordingly went off, leaped on a bed, and rolling herself in a ball,
composed herself for a comfortable nap. I asked the husband what his
wife meant by what she had just said. "The good woman," said he, "has
some curious notions at times, and she believes, I think, in the ways of
animals of all kinds. Now, her talk to the cat refers to the fires of
the woods around us, and although they have happened long ago, she fears
them quite as much as ever, and, indeed, she and I and all of us have
good reason to dread them, as they have brought us many calamities."
Having read of the great fires to which my host alluded, and frequently
observed with sorrow the mournful state of the forests, I felt anxious
to know something of the causes by which these direful effects had been
produced. I therefore requested him to give me an account of the events
resulting from those fires which he had witnessed. Willingly he at once
went on, nearly as follows:--
"About twenty-five years ago the larch, or hackmatack, trees were nearly
all killed by insects. This took place in what hereabouts is called the
'black soft growth' land, that is, the spruce, pine, and all other firs.
The destruction of the trees was effected by the insects cutting the
leaves, and you must know that, although other trees are not killed by
the loss of their leaves, the evergreens always are. Some few years
after this destruction of the larch, the same insects attacked the
spruces, pines, and other firs, in such a manner that, before half a
dozen years were over, they began to fall, and, tumbling in all
directions, they covered the whole country with matted masses. You may
suppose that when partially dried or seasoned, they would prove capital
fuel, as well as supplies for the devouring flames, which accidentally,
or perhaps by intention, afterwards raged over the country, and
continued burning at intervals for years, in many places stopping all
communication by the roads; the resinous nature of the firs being of
course best fitted to insure and keep up the burning of the deep beds of
dry leaves or of the other trees." Here I begged him to give me some
idea of the form of the insects which had caused such havoc.
"The insects," said he, "were, in their caterpillar form, about three
quarters of an inch in length, and as green as the leaves of the trees
they fed on, when they committed their ravages. I must tell you also
that, in most of the places over which the fire passed, a new growth of
wood has already sprung up, of what we lumberers call hard wood, which
consists of all other sorts but pine or fir; and I have always remarked
that wherever the first natural growth of a forest is destroyed, either
by the axe, the hurricane, or the fire, there springs up spontaneously
another of quite a different kind." I again stopped my host to inquire
if he knew the method or nature of the first kindling of the fires.
"Why, sir," said he, "there are different opinions about this. Many
believe that the Indians did it, either to be the better able to kill
the game, or to punish their enemies the Pale-faces. My opinion,
however, is different; and I derive it from my experience in the woods
as a lumberer. I have always thought that the fires began by the
accidental fall of a dry trunk against another, when their rubbing
together, especially as many of them are covered with resin, would
produce fire. The dry leaves on the ground are at once kindled, next the
twigs and branches, when nothing but the intervention of the Almighty
could stop the progress of the fire.
"In some instances, owing to the wind, the destructive element
approached the dwellings of the inhabitants of the woods so rapidly that
it was difficult for them to escape. In some parts, indeed, hundreds of
families were obliged to flee from their homes, leaving all they had
behind them, and here and there some of the affrighted fugitives were
burnt alive."
At this moment a rush of wind came down the chimney, blowing the blaze
of the fire towards the room. The wife and daughter, imagining for a
moment that the woods were again on fire, made for the door, but the
husband explaining the cause of their terror, they resumed their work.
"Poor things," said the lumberer, "I dare say that what I have told you
brings sad recollections to the minds of my wife and eldest daughter,
who, with myself, had to fly from our home, at the time of the great
fires." I felt so interested in his relation of the causes of the
burnings that I asked him to describe to me the particulars of his
misfortunes at the time. "If Prudence and Polly," said he, looking
towards his wife and daughter, "will promise to sit still should another
puff of smoke come down the chimney, I will do so." The good-natured
smile with which he made this remark elicited a return from the women
and he proceeded:--
"It is a difficult thing, sir, to describe, but I will do my best to
make your time pass pleasantly. We were sound asleep one night in a
cabin about a hundred miles from this, when, about two hours before
day, the snorting of the horses and lowing of the cattle which I had
ranging in the woods suddenly awakened us. I took yon rifle and went to
the door, to see what beast had caused the hubbub, when I was struck by
the glare of light reflected on all the trees before me, as far as I
could see through the woods. My horses were leaping about, snorting
loudly, and the cattle ran among them with their tails raised straight
over their backs. On going to the back of the house, I plainly heard the
crackling made by the burning brushwood, and saw the flames coming
towards us in a far extended line. I ran to the house, told my wife to
dress herself and the child as quick as possible, and take the little
money we had, while I managed to catch and saddle the two best horses.
All this was done in a very short time, for I guessed that every moment
was precious to us.
"We then mounted, and made off from the fire. My wife, who is an
excellent rider, stuck close to me; my daughter, who was then a small
child, I took in one arm. When making off as I said, I looked back and
saw that the frightful blaze was close upon us, and had already laid
hold of the house. By good luck, there was a horn attached to my
hunting-clothes, and I blew it, to bring after us, if possible, the
remainder of my live stock, as well as the dogs. The cattle followed for
a while; but, before an hour had elapsed, they all ran as if mad through
the woods, and that, sir, was the last of them. My dogs, too, although
at other times extremely tractable, ran after the Deer that in bodies
sprung before us, as if fully aware of the death that was so rapidly
approaching.
"We heard blasts from the horns of our neighbors as we proceeded, and
knew that they were in the same predicament. Intent on striving to the
utmost to preserve our lives, I thought of a large lake some miles off,
which might possibly check the flames; and, urging my wife to whip up
her horse, we set off at full speed, making the best way we could over
the fallen trees and brush-heaps, which lay like so many articles placed
on purpose to keep up the terrific fires that advanced with a broad
front upon us.
"By this time we could feel the heat; and we were afraid that our horses
would drop every instant. A singular kind of breeze was passing over our
heads, and the glare of the atmosphere shone over the daylight. I was
sensible of a slight faintness, and my wife looked pale. The heat had
produced such a flush in the child's face that when she turned towards
either of us, our grief and perplexity were greatly increased. Ten
miles, you know, are soon gone over on swift horses; but,
notwithstanding this, when we reached the borders of the lake, covered
with sweat and quite exhausted, our hearts failed us. The heat of the
smoke was insufferable, and sheets of blazing fire flew over us in a
manner beyond belief. We reached the shores, however, coasted the lake
for a while, and got round to the lee side. There we gave up our horses,
which we never saw again. Down among the rushes we plunged by the edge
of the water, and laid ourselves flat, to wait the chance of escaping
from being burnt or devoured. The water refreshed us, and we enjoyed the
coolness.
"On went the fire, rushing and crashing through the woods. Such a sight
may we never see! The heavens, themselves, I thought were frightened,
for all above us was a red glare mixed with clouds of smoke, rolling and
sweeping away. Our bodies were cool enough, but our heads were
scorching, and the child, who now seemed to understand the matter, cried
so as nearly to break our hearts.
"The day passed on, and we became hungry. Many wild beasts came plunging
into the water beside us, and others swam across to our side and stood
still. Although faint and weary, I managed to shoot a Porcupine, and we
all tasted its flesh. The night passed, I cannot tell you how.
Smouldering fires covered the ground, and trees stood like pillars of
fire, or fell across each other. The stifling and sickening smoke still
rushed over us, and the burnt cinders and ashes fell thick about us. How
we got through that night I really cannot tell, for about some of it I
remember nothing." Here the hunter paused, and took breath. The recital
of his adventure seemed to have exhausted him. His wife proposed that we
should have a bowl of milk, and the daughter having handed it to us, we
each took a draught.
"Now," said he, "I will proceed. Towards morning, although the heat did
not abate, the smoke became less, and blasts of fresh air sometimes made
their way to us. When morning came, all was calm, but a dismal smoke
still filled the air, and the smell seemed worse than ever. We were now
cooled enough, and shivered as if in an ague fit; so we removed from the
water, and went up to a burning log, where we warmed ourselves. What was
to become of us, I did not know. My wife hugged the child to her breast,
and wept bitterly; but God had preserved us through the worst of the
danger, and the flames had gone past, so I thought it would be both
ungrateful to him and unmanly to despair now. Hunger once more pressed
upon us, but this was easily remedied. Several Deer were still standing
in the water, up to the head, and I shot one of them. Some of its flesh
was soon roasted; and after eating it we felt wonderfully strengthened.
"By this time the blaze of the fire was beyond our sight, although the
ground was still burning in many places, and it was dangerous to go
among the burnt trees. After resting awhile, and trimming ourselves, we
prepared to commence our march. Taking up the child, I led the way over
the hot ground and rocks; and, after two weary days and nights, during
which we shifted in the best manner we could, we at last reached the
'hard woods' which had been free of the fire. Soon after we came to a
house, where we were kindly treated for a while. Since then, sir, I have
worked hard and constantly as a lumberer; but, thanks be to God, here we
are safe, sound, and happy!"
A LONG CALM AT SEA