On my return from my voyage to the upper store, I understood the
trading company designed for Cuscowilla, that they had been very active
in their preparations, and would be ready to set off in a few days. I
therefore availed myself of the little time allowed me to secure and
preserve my collections, against the arrival of the trading schooner,
which was hourly expected, that every thing might be in readiness to be
shipped on board her, in case she should load again and return for
Savanna during my absence.
Every necessary being now in readiness, early on a fine morning we
proceeded, attended by four men under the conduct of an old trader,
whom Mr. M’Latche had delegated to treat with the Cowkeeper and other
chiefs of Cuscowilla, on the subject of re-establishing the trade, &c.
agreeable to the late treaty of St. Augustine.
For the first four or five miles we travelled west-ward, over a
perfectly level plain, which appeared before and on each side of us, as
a charming green meadow, thinly planted with low spreading Pine trees
(P. palustris). The upper stratum of the earth is a fine white
crystalline sand, the very upper surface of which being mixed or
incorporated with the ashes of burnt vegetables, renders it of
sufficient strength or fertility to clothe itself perfectly with a very
great variety of grasses, herbage, and remarkably low shrubs, together
with a very dwarf species of Palmetto (Corypha pumila stipit.
serratis). Of the low shrubs many were new to me and of a very pleasing
appearance, particularly a species of Annona (Annona incarna, floribus
grandioribus paniculatis); this grows three, four, or five feet high,
the leaves somewhat cuneiform or broad lanceolate, attenuating down to
the petiole, of a pale or light green colour, covered with a pubescence
or short fine down; the flowers very large, perfectly white and sweet
scented, many connected together on large loose panicles or spikes; the
fruit of the size and form of a small cucumber, the skin or exterior
surface somewhat rimose or scabrous, containing a yellow pulp of the
consistence of a hard custard, and very delicious, wholesome food. This
seems a variety, if not the same that I first remarked, growing on the
Alatamaha near Fort Barrington, Charlotia, and many other places in
Georgia and East-Florida; and I observed here in plenty the very dwarf
decumbent Annona, with narrow leaves, and various flowers already
noticed at Alatamaha (Annona pigmæa). Here is also abundance of the
beautiful little dwarf Kalmia ciliata, already described. The white
berried Empetrum, a very pretty evergreen, grows here on somewhat
higher and drier knolls, in large patches or clumps, associated with
Olea Americana, several species of dwarf Querci (Oaks) Vaccinium,
Gordonia lasianthus, Andromeda ferruginea, and a very curious and
beautiful shrub which seems allied to the Rhododendron, Cassine,
Rhamnus frangula, Andromeda nitida, &c. which being of dark green
foliage, diversify and enliven the landscape: but what appears very
extraordinary, is to behold here, depressed and degraded, the glorious
pyramidal Magnolia grandiflora, associated amongst these vile dwarfs,
and even some of them rising above it, though not five feet high; yet
still showing large, beautiful and expansive white fragrant blossoms,
and great heavy cones, on slender procumbent branches, some even lying
on the earth; the ravages of fire keep them down, as is evident from
the vast excrescent tuberous roots, covering several feet of ground,
from which these slender shoots spring.
In such clumps and coverts are to be seen several kinds of birds,
particularly a species of jay (Pica glandaria cerulea non cristata):
they are generally of an azure blue colour, have no crest or tuft of
feathers on the head, nor are they so large as the great crested blue
jay of Virginia, but are equally clamorous. The towee birds (fringilla
erythrophthalma) are very numerous, as are a species of bluish grey
butcher bird (lanius.) Here were also lizards and snakes. The lizards
were of that species called in Carolina, scorpions: they are from five
to six inches in length, of a slender form; the tail in particular is
very long and small; they are of a yellowish clay colour, varied with
longitudinal lines or stripes of a dusky brown colour, from head to
tail: they are wholly covered with very small squamæ, vibrate their
tail, and dart forth and brandish their forked tongue after the manner
of serpents, when they are surprised or in pursuit of their prey, which
are scarabei, locustæ, musci, and other insects; but I do not learn
that their bite is poisonous, yet I have observed cats to be sick soon
after eating them. After passing over this extensive, level, hard, wet
savanna, we crossed a fine brook or rivulet; the water cool and
pleasant; its banks adorned with varieties of trees and shrubs,
particularly the delicate Cyrilla racemifiora, Chionanthus, Clethra,
Nyssa sylvatica, Andromeda nitida, Andromeda formosissima: and here
were great quantities of a very large and beautiful Filix osmunda,
growing in great tufts or clumps. After leaving the rivulet, we passed
over a wet, hard, level glade or down, covered with a fine short grass,
with abundance of low saw Palmetto, and a few shrubby Pine trees,
Quercus nigra, Quercus sinuata or scarlet Oak: then the path descends
to a wet bay-gale; the ground a hard, fine, white sand, covered with
black slush, which continued above two miles, when it gently rises the
higher sand hills, and directly after passes through a fine grove of
young long-leaved pines. The soil seemed here loose, brown, coarse,
sandy loam, though fertile. The ascent of the hill, ornamented with a
variety and profusion of herbaceous plants and grasses, particularly
Amaryllis atamasco, Clitoria, Phlox, Ipomea, Convolvulus, Verbena
corymbosa, Ruellia, Viola, &c. A magnificent grove of stately pines,
succeeding to the expansive wild plains we had a long time traversed,
had a pleasing effect, rousing the faculties of the mind, awakening the
imagination by its sublimity, and arresting every active, inquisitive
idea, by the variety of the scenery and the solemn symphony of the
steady western breezes, playing incessantly, rising and falling through
the thick and wavy foliage.
The pine groves passed, we immediately find ourselves on the entrance
of the expansive airy pine forests, on parallel chains of low swelling
mounds, called the Sand Hills; their ascent so easy, as to be almost
imperceptible to the progressive traveller, yet at a distant view
before us in some degree exhibit the appearance of the mountainous
swell of the ocean immediately after a tempest; but yet, as we approach
them, they insensibly disappear, and seem to be lost, and we should be
ready to conclude all to be a visionary scene, were it not for the
sparkling ponds and lakes, which at the same time gleam through the
open forests, before us and on every side, retaining them on the eye,
until we come up with them. And at last the imagination remains
flattered and dubious, by their uniformity, being mostly circular or
elliptical, and almost surrounded with expansive green meadows; and
always a picturesque dark grove of Live Oak, Magnolia, Gordonia, and
the fragrant Orange, encircling a rocky shaded grotto of transparent
water, on some border of the pond or lake; which, without the aid of
any poetic fable, one might naturally suppose to be the sacred abode or
temporary residence of the guardian spirit; but is actually the
possession and retreat of a thundering absolute crocodile.
Arrived early in the evening at the Halfway pond, where we encamped and
stayed all night. This lake spreads itself in a spacious meadow,
beneath a chain of elevated sand-hills: the sheet of water at this time
was about three miles in circumference; the upper end, and just under
the hills surrounded by a crescent of dark groves, which shaded a rocky
grotto. Near this place was a sloping green bank, terminating by a
point of flat rocks, which projected into the lake, and formed one
point of the crescent that partly surrounded the vast grotto or bason
of transparent waters, which is called by the traders a sink-hole, a
singular kind of vortex or conduit, to the subterranean receptacles of
the waters; but though the waters of these ponds, in the summer and dry
seasons, evidently tend towards these sinks, yet it is so slowly and
gradually, as to be almost imperceptible. There is always a meandering
channel winding through the savannas or meadows, which receives the
waters spread over them, by several lateral smaller branches, slowly
conveying them along into the lake, and finally into the bason, and
with them nations of the finny tribes.
Just by the little cape of flat rocks, we fixed our encampment, where I
enjoyed a comprehensive and varied scene, the verdant meadows spread
abroad, charmingly decorated by green points of grassy lawns and dark
promontories of wood-land, projecting into the green plains.
Behold now at still evening, the sun yet streaking the embroidered
savannas, armies of fish pursuing their pilgrimage to the grand
pellucid fountain, and when here arrived, all quiet and peaceable,
encircle the little cerulean hemisphere, they descend into the dark
caverns of the earth; where, probably, they are separated from each
other, by innumerable paths, or secret rocky avenues; and after
encountering various obstacles, and beholding new and unthought-of
scenes of pleasure and disgust, after many days absence from the
surface of the world emerge again from the dreary vaults, and appear
exulting in gladness, and sporting in the transparent waters of some
far distant lake.
The various kinds of fish and amphibious animals, that inhabit these
inland lakes and waters, may be mentioned here, as many of them here
assembled, pass and repass in the lucid grotto: first the crocodile
alligator; great brown spotted garr, accoutred in an impenetrable coat
of mail: this admirable animal may be termed a cannibal amongst fish,
as fish are his prey; when fully grown he is from five to six feet in
length, and of proportionable thickness, of a dusky brown colour,
spotted with black. The Indians make use of their sharp teeth to
scratch or bleed themselves with, and their pointed scales to arm their
arrows. This fish is sometimes eaten, and to prepare them for food,
they cover them whole in hot embers, where they bake them; the skin
with the scales easily peels off, leaving the meat white and tender.
The mud fish is large, thick or round, but two feet in length; his meat
white and tender, but soft and tastes of the mud, and is not much
esteemed. The great devouring trout and catfish are in abundance; the
golden bream or sunfish, the red bellied bream, the silver or white
bream, the great yellow and great black or blue bream, also abound
here. The last of these mentioned, is a large, beautiful and delicious
fish; when full grown they are nine inches in length, and five to six
inches in breadth; the whole body is of a dull blue or indigo colour,
marked with transverse lists or zones of a darker colour, scatteringly
powdered with sky blue, gold and red specks; fins and tail of a dark
purple or livid flesh colour; the ultimate angle of the branchiostega
forming a spatula, the extreme end of which is broad and circular,
terminating like the feather of the peacock’s train, and having a
brilliant spot or eye like it, being delicately painted with a fringed
border of a fire colour.
The great yellow or particoloured bream is in form and proportion much
like the forementioned, but larger, from a foot to fifteen inches in
length; his back from head to tail is of a dark clay and dusky colour,
with transverse dashes or blotches, of reddish dull purple, or bluish,
according to different exposures to light; the sides and belly of a
bright pale yellow; the belly faintly stained with vermillion red,
insensibly blended with the yellow on the sides, and all garnished with
fiery, blue, green, gold and silver specks on the scales; the
branchiostega is of a yellowish clay or straw colour, the lower edge or
border next the opening of the gills, is near a quarter of an inch in
breadth, of a sea green or marine blue, the ulterior angle protends
backwards to a considerable length, in the form of a spatula or
feather, the extreme end dilated and circular, of a deep black or crow
colour, reflecting green and blue, and bordered round with fiery red,
somewhat like red sealing-wax, representing a brilliant ruby on the
side of the fish; the fins reddish, edged with a dove colour: they are
deservedly esteemed a most excellent fish.
[Illustration: Great Soft-shelled Tortoise]
Here are, as well as in all the rivers, lakes, and ponds of East
Florida, the great soft-shelled tortoise[30]: they are very large when
full grown, from twenty to thirty and forty pounds weight, extremely
fat and delicious, but if eaten to excess, are apt to purge people not
accustomed to eat their meat.
They are flat and very thin; two feet and a half in length, and
eighteen inches in breadth across the back; in form, appearance and
texture, very much resembling the sea turtle: the whole back shell,
except the vertebrae or ridge, which is not at all prominent, and ribs
on each side, is soft or cartilaginous, and easily reduced to a jelly
when boiled; the anterior and posterior extremities of the back shell,
appear to be embossed with round, horny warts or tubercles, the belly
or nether shell is but small and semicartilaginous, except a narrow
cross bar connecting it at each end with the back shell, which is hard
and osseous; the head is large and clubbed, of nearly an oval form, the
upper mandible, however, is protended forward, and truncated, somewhat
resembling a swine’s snout, at the extreme end of which the nostrils
are placed; on each side of the root or base of this proboscis are the
eyes, which are large; the upper beak is hooked and sharp, like a
hawk’s bill; the lips and corners of the mouth large, tumid, wrinkled
and barbed with long, pointed warts, which he can project and contract
at pleasure, which gives the creature a frightful and disagreeable
countenance. They bury themselves in the slushy bottoms of rivers and
ponds, under the roots of flags and other aquatic herbage, leaving a
hole or aperture just sufficient for their head to play through; in
such places they withdraw themselves when hungry, and there seize their
prey by surprise, darting out their heads as quick as lightning, upon
the unwary animal that unfortunately strolls within their reach: they
can extend their neck to a surprising length, which enables them to
seize young fowl swimming on the surface of the water above them, which
they instantly drag down. They are seen to raise their heads above the
surface of the water, in the depths of the lakes and rivers, and blow,
causing a faint puffing noise, somewhat like a porpoise; probably this
is for pastime, or to charge themselves with a proper supply of fresh
air. They are carnivorous, feeding on any animal they can seize,
particularly young ducks, frogs and fish.
[Illustration: Head of the Great Softshelled Tortoise]
We had a large and fat one served up for our supper, which I at first
apprehended we had made a very extravagant waste of, not being able to
consume one half of its flesh, though excellently well cooked; my
companions, however, seemed regardless, being in the midst of plenty
and variety, at any time within our reach, and to be obtained with
little or no trouble or fatigue on our part; when herds of deer were
feeding in the green meadows before us; flocks of turkeys, walking in
the groves around us, and myriads of fish, of the greatest variety and
delicacy, sporting in the crystalline floods before our eyes.
The vultures and ravens, crouched on the crooked limbs of the lofty
pines, at a little distance from us, sharpening their beaks, in low
debate, waiting to regale themselves on the offals, after our departure
from camp.
At the return of the morning, by the powerful influence of light, the
pulse of nature becomes more active, and the universal vibration of
life insensibly and irresistibly moves the wondrous machine. How
cheerful and gay all nature appears! Hark! the musical savanna cranes,
ere the chirping sparrow flirts from his grassy couch, or the glorious
sun gilds the tops of the pines, spread their expansive wings, leave
their lofty roosts, and repair to the ample plains.
From Half-way pond, we proceed westward, through the high forests of
Cuscowilla.
The appearance of the earth for five or six miles, presented nearly the
same scenes as heretofore.
Now the sand ridges became higher, and their bases proportionably more
extensive; the savannas and ponds more expansive; the summit of the
ridges more gravelly; here and there, heaps or piles of rocks, emerging
out of the sand and gravel: these rocks are the same sort of concrete
of sand and shells as noticed on St. Juan’s and the great lake. The
vegetable productions nearly the same as already mentioned.
We gently descended again over sand ridges, crossed a rapid brook,
ripling over the gravelly bed, hurrying the transparent waters into a
vast and beautiful lake, through a fine fruitful Orange grove; which
magnificently adorns the banks of the lake to a great distance on each
side of the capes of the creek. This is a fine situation for a capital
town. These waters are tributary to St. Juan’s.
We alighted to refresh ourselves, and adjust our packs. Here are
evident signs and traces of a powerful settlement of the ancients.
Sat off again, and continued travelling over a magnificent pine forest,
the ridges low, but their bases extensive, with proportionable plains.
The steady breezes gently and continually rising and falling, fill the
high lonesome forests with an awful reverential harmony, inexpressibly
sublime, and not to be enjoyed any where, but in these native wild
Indian regions.
Crossing another large deep creek of St. Juan’s, the country is a vast
level plain, and the soil good for the distance of four or five miles,
though light and sandy, producing a forest of stately pines and
laurels, with some others; and a vast profusion of herbage, such as
Rudbeckia, Helianthus, Silphium, Polymnia, Ruellia, Verbena, Rhexia,
Convolvulus, Sophora, Glycine, Vitia, Clitorea, Ipomea, Urtica, Salvia
graveolens, Viola, and many more. How cheerful and social is the rural
converse of the various tribes of tree frogs, whilst they look to
heaven for prolific showers! How harmonious the shrill tuneful songs of
the wood thrush, and the soothing love lays of the amorous cuckoo[31],
seated in the cool leafy branches of the stately Magnolias and shadowy
Elms, Maples and Liquidambar, together with gigantic Fagus sylvatica,
which shade and perfume these sequestered groves! How unexpected and
enchanting the enjoyment, after traversing a burning sandy desert!
Now, again, we behold the open pine forests, and ascend the sandy
hills, which continue for some miles, then gently descend again, when a
level expansive savanna plain presents itself to view, which, after
entering, and proceeding on, becomes wet and covered by a fine short
grass, with extensive parterres of the dwarf creeping Palmetto, its
stipes sharply toothed or serrated together with clumps of low shrubs,
as Kalmia, Andromeda, Annona pygmea, Myrica cerifera, Empetrum,
Vaccinium, and others.
We now ascend a little again, and pass through a narrow pine forest;
when suddenly opens to view a vastly extensive and sedgy marsh,
expanding Southerly like an open fan, seemingly as boundless as the
great ocean: our road crossing the head of it, about three hundred
yards over; the bottom here, was hard sand, a foot or more under a soft
muddy surface. The traders informed me that these vast marshes lay on
the borders of a great lake, many miles in length, in magnitude
exceeding Lake George, and communicating with St. Juan’s by a
river[32]; its confluence above the lower store at the Little Lake.
Observed as we passed over the same hills, the dens of the great land
tortoise, called gopher: this strange creature remains yet undescribed
by historians and travellers. The first signs of this animal’s
existence, as we travel Southerly, are immediately after we cross the
Savanna River. It is to be seen only on the high dry sand hills. When
arrived at its greatest magnitude, the upper shell is near eighteen
inches in length, and ten or twelve inches in breadth; the back is very
high, and the shell of a very hard bony substance, consisting of many
regular compartments, united by sutures, in the manner of the other
species of tortoise, and covered with thin horny plates. The nether or
belly shell is large, and regularly divided transversely, into five
parts: these compartments are not knit together like the sutures of the
skull, or the back shell of the tortoise, but adhere, or are connected
together by a very ridgy horny cartilage, which serves as hinges for
him to shut up his body within his shell at pleasure. The fore part of
the belly shell towards its extremity is formed somewhat like a spade,
extends forward near three inches, and is about an inch and an half in
breadth; its extremity is a little bifid, the posterior division of the
belly shell, is likewise protended backwards considerably, and is
deeply bifurcated.
The legs and feet are covered with flat horny squamæ; he seems to have
no clefts in them or toes, but long flattish nails or talons, somewhat
in resemblance to the nails of the human fingers, five on the fore
feet; the hind legs or feet appear as if truncated, or as stumps of
feet, armed all round with sharp, flattish strong nails, the number
undetermined or irregular; the head is of a moderate size; the upper
mandible a little hooked, the edges hard and sharp; the eyes are large;
the nose picked; the nostrils near together and very minute; the
general colour of the animal is a light ash or clay, and at a distance,
unless it is in motion, any one would disregard or overlook it as a
stone or an old stump. It is astonishing what a weight one of these
creatures will bear; it will easily carry any man standing on its back,
on level ground. They form great and deep dens in the sand hills,
casting out incredible quantities of earth. They are esteemed excellent
food. The eggs are larger than a musket ball, perfectly round, and the
shell hard.
After crossing over this point or branch of the marshes, we entered a
noble forest, the land level, and the soil fertile, being a loose, dark
brown, coarse sandy loam, on a clay or marley foundation: the forests
were orange groves, overtoped by grand Magnolias, Palms, Live Oaks,
Juglans cinerea, Morus rubra, Fagus sylvatica, Tilia and Liquidambar,
with various kinds of shrubs and herbaceous plants, particularly
Callicarpa, Halesia, Sambucus, Zanthoxylon, Ptelea, Rhamnus frangula,
Rudbeckia, Silphium, Polymnia, Indigo fera, Sophora, Salvia graveolens,
&c. We were cheerfully received in this hospitable shade, by various
tribes of birds; their sprightly songs seemed a prelude to the vicinity
of human habitations. This magnificent grove was a wing of the vast
forests lying upon the coast of the great and beautiful lake of
Cuscowilla, at no great distance from us. Continuing eight or nine
miles through this sublime forest, we entered on an open forest of
lofty pines and oaks, on gently swelling sand hills, and presently saw
the lake, its waters sparkling through the open groves. Near the path
was a large artificial mound of earth, on a most charming, high
situation, supposed to be the work of the ancient Floridans or
Yamasees; with other traces of an Indian town. Here were three or four
Indian habitations; the women and children saluted us with cheerfulness
and complaisance. After riding near a mile farther, we arrived at
Cuscowilla, near the banks: a pretty brook of water ran through the
town, and entered the lake just by.
We were welcomed to the town, and conducted by the young men and
maidens to the chief’s house, which stood on an eminence, and was
distinguished from the rest by its superior magnitude, a large flag
being hoisted on a high staff at one corner. We immediately alighted:
the chief, who is called the Cowkeeper, attended by several ancient
men, came to us, and in a very free and sociable manner, shook our
hands, or rather arms, (a form of salutation peculiar to the American
Indians) saying at the same time, “You are come.” We followed him to an
apartment prepared for the reception of their guests.
The pipe being filled, it is handed around; after which a large bowl,
with what they call “thin drink,” is brought in and set down on a small
low table. In this bowl is a great wooden ladle; each person takes up
in it as much as he pleases, and after drinking until satisfied,
returns it again into the bowl, pushing the handle towards the next
person in the circle; and so it goes round.
After the usual compliments and enquiries relative to our adventures,
&c. the chief trader informed the Cowkeeper, in the presence of his
council or attendants, the purport of our business, with which he
expressed his satisfaction. He was then informed what the nature of my
errand was, and he received me with complaisance, giving me unlimited
permission to travel over the country for the purpose of collecting
flowers, medicinal plants, &c. saluting me by the name of PUC PUGGY, or
the Flower hunter, recommending me to the friendship and protection of
his people.
The next day being agreed on to hold a council and transact the
business of our embassy, we acquainted the chief with our intention of
making our encampment on the borders of the great ALACHUA SAVANNA, and
to return at the time appointed to town, to attend the council
according to agreement.
Soon after we had fixed on the time and manner of proceeding on the
further settlement of the treaty, a considerable number of Indians
assembled around their chief, when the conversation turned to common
and familiar topics.
The chief is a tall well made man, very affable and cheerful, about
sixty years of age, his eyes lively and full of fire, his countenance
manly and placid, yet ferocious, or what we call savage, his nose
aquiline, his dress extremely simple, but his head trimmed and
ornamented in the true Creek mode. He has been a great warrior, having
then attending him as slaves, many Yamasee captives, taken by himself
when young. They were dressed better than he, and served and waited
upon him with signs of the most abject fear. The manners and customs of
the Alachuas, and most of the lower Creeks or Siminoles, appear
evidently tinctured with Spanish civilization. Their religious and
civil usages manifest a predilection for the Spanish customs. There are
several Christians among them, many of whom wear little silver
crucifixes, affixed to a wampum collar round their necks, or suspended
by a small chain upon their breast. These are said to be baptized; and
notwithstanding most of them speak and understand Spanish, yet they
have been the most bitter and formidable Indian enemies the Spaniards
ever had. The slaves, both male and female, are permitted to marry
amongst them: their children are free, and considered in every respect
equal to themselves; but the parents continue in a state of slavery as
long as they live.
In observing these slaves, we behold at once, in their countenance and
manners, the striking contrast betwixt a state of freedom and slavery.
They are the tamest, the most abject creatures that we can possibly
imagine: mild, peaceable, and tractable, they seem to have no will or
power to act but as directed by their masters; whilst the free Indians,
on the contrary, are bold, active and clamorous. They differ as widely
from each other as the bull from the ox.
The repast is now brought in, consisting of venison, stewed with bear’s
oil, fresh corn cakes, milk, and homony; and our drink, honey and
water, very cool and agreeable. After partaking of this banquet, we
took leave and departed for the great savanna.
We soon entered a level, grassy plain, interspersed with low,
spreading, three leaved Pine trees, large patches of low shrubs,
consisting of Prinos glaber, low Myrica, Kalmia glauca, Andromedas of
several species, and many other shrubs, with patches of Palmetto. We
continued travelling through this savanna or bay-gale, near two miles,
when the land ascends a little; we then entered a hommock or dark
grove, consisting of various kinds of trees, as the Magnolia
grandiflora, Corypha palma, Citrus Aurantium, Quercus sempervirens,
Morus rubra, Ulmus sylvatica, Tilia, Juglans cinerea, Æsculus pavia,
Liquidambar, Laurus Borbonia, Hopea tinctoria, Cercis, Cornus Florida,
Halesia diptera, Halesia tetraptera, Olea Americana, Callicarpa,
Andromeda arborea, Sideroxylon sericium, Sid. tenax, Vitis labrusca,
Hedera arborea, Hedera quinquefolia, Rhamnus volubilis, Prunus
Caroliniana (pr. flor. racemosis, foliis sempervirentibus,
lato-lanceolatis, accumunatis, serratis) Fagus sylvatica, Zanthoxylon
clava Herculis, Acer rubrum, Acer negundo, Fraxinus excelsior, with
many others already mentioned. The land still gently rising, the soil
fertile, loose, loamy and of a dark brown colour. This continues near a
mile, when at once opens to view the most sudden transition from
darkness to light, that can poffibly be exhibited in a natural
landscape.
The extensive Alachua savanna is a level green plain, above fifteen
miles over, fifty miles in circumference, and scarcely a tree or bush
of any kind to be seen on it. It is encircled with high, sloping hills,
covered with waving forests and fragrant Orange groves, rising from an
exuberantly fertile soil. The towering Magnolia grandiflora and
transcendent Palm, stand conspicuous amongst them. At the same time are
seen innumerable droves of cattle; the lordly bull, lowing cow, and
sleek capricious heifer. The hills and groves re-echo their cheerful,
social voices. Herds of sprightly deer, squadrons of the beautiful
fleet Siminole horse, flocks of turkeys, civilized communities of the
sonorous watchful crane, mix together, appearing happy and contented in
the enjoyment of peace, till disturbed and affrighted by the warrior
man. Behold yonder, coming upon them through the darkened groves,
sneakingly and unawares, the naked red warrior, invading the Elysian
fields and green plains of Alachua. At the terrible appearance of the
painted, fearless, uncontrouled and free Siminole, the peaceful,
innocent nations are at once thrown into disorder and dismay. See the
different tribes and bands, how they draw towards each other! as it
were deliberating upon the general good. Suddenly they speed off with
their young in the centre; but the roebuck fears him not: here he lays
himself down, bathes and flounces in the cool flood. The red warrior,
whose plumed head flashes lightning, whoops in vain; his proud,
ambitious horse strains and pants; the earth glides from under his
feet, his flowing mane whistles in the wind, as he comes up full of
vain hopes. The bounding roe views his rapid approaches, rises up,
lifts aloft his antlered head, erects the white flag[33], and fetching
a shrill whistle, says to his fleet and free associates, “follow;” he
bounds off, and in a few minutes distances his foe a mile; suddenly he
stops, turns about, and laughing says, “how vain! go chase meteors in
the azure plains above, or hunt butterflies in the fields about your
towns.”
We approached the savanna at the south end, by a narrow isthmus of
level ground, open to the light of day, and clear of trees or bushes,
and not greatly elevated above the common level, having on our right a
spacious meadow, embellished with a little lake, one verge of which was
not very distant from us; its shore is a moderately high, circular
bank, partly encircling a cove of the pond, in the form of a half moon;
the water is clear and deep, and, at the distance of some hundred
yards, was a large floating field (if I may so express myself) of the
Nymphæa nelumbo, with their golden blossoms waving to and fro on their
lofty stems. Beyond these fields of Nymphæa were spacious plains,
encompassed by dark groves, opening to extensive pine forests, other
plains still appearing beyond them.
This little lake and surrounding meadows would have been alone
sufficient to surprise and delight the traveller; but being placed so
near the great savanna, the attention is quickly drawn off, and wholly
engaged in the contemplation of the unlimited, varied, and truly
astonishing native wild scenes of landscape and perspective, there
exhibited: how is the mind agitated and bewildered, at being thus, as
it were, placed on the borders of a new world! On the first view of
such an amazing display of the wisdom and power of the supreme author
of nature, the mind for a moment seems suspended, and impressed with
awe.
This isthmus being the common avenue or road of Indian travellers, we
pitched our camp at a small distance from it, on a rising knoll near
the verge of the savanna, under some spreading Live Oaks: this
situation was open and airy, and gave us an unbounded prospect over the
adjacent plains. Dewy evening now came on; the animating breezes, which
cooled and tempered the meridian hours of this sultry season, now
gently ceased; the glorious sovereign of the day, calling in his bright
beaming emanations, left us in his absence to the milder government and
protection of the silver queen of night, attended by millions of
brilliant luminaries. The thundering alligator had ended his horrifying
roar; the silver plumed gannet and stork, the sage and solitary pelican
of the wilderness, have already retired to their silent nocturnal
habitations, in the neighbouring forests; the sonorous savanna cranes,
in well-disciplined squadrons, now rising from the earth, mount aloft
in spiral circles, far above the dense atmosphere of the humid plain;
they again viewed the glorious sun, and the light of day still gleaming
on their polished feathers, they sung their evening hymn, then in a
straight line majestically descended, and alighted on the towering
Palms or lofty Pines, their secure and peaceful lodging places. All
around being still and silent, we repaired to rest.
Soon after sun-rise, a party of Indians on horseback, appeared upon the
savanna, to collect together several herds of cattle which they drove
along near our camp, towards the town. One of the party came up, and
informed us, the cattle belonged to the chief of Cuscowilla; that he
had ordered some of the best steers of his droves to be slaughtered for
a general feast for the whole town, in compliment of our arrival, and
pacific negotiations.
The cattle were as large and fat as those of the rich grazing pastures
of Moyomensing in Pennsylvania. The Indians drove off the lowing herds,
and we soon followed them to town, in order to be at council at the
appointed hour, leaving two young men of our party to protect our camp.
Upon our arrival we repaired to the public square or council-house,
where the chiefs and senators were already convened, the warriors and
young men assembled soon after, the business being transacted in
public. As it was no more than a ratification of the late treaty of St.
Augustine, with some particular commercial stipulations, with respect
to the citizens of Alachua, the negociations soon terminated to the
satisfaction of both parties.
The banquet succeeded; the ribs and choisest fat pieces of the
bullocks, excellently well barbecued, were brought into the apartment
of the public square, constructed and appointed for feasting; bowls and
kettles of stewed flesh and broth were brought in for the next course,
and with it a very singular dish, the traders call it tripe soup; it is
made of the belly or paunch of the beef, not overcleansed of its
contents, cut and minced pretty fine, and then made into a thin soup,
seasoned well with salt and aromatic herbs; but the seasoning not quite
strong enough to extinguish its original savour and scent. This dish is
greatly esteemed by the Indians, but is, in my judgment, the least
agreeable they have amongst them.
The town of Cuscowilla, which is the capital of the Alachua tribe,
contains about thirty habitations, each of which consists of two houses
nearly the same size, about thirty feet in length, twelve feet wide,
and about the same in height. The door is placed midway on one side or
in the front. This house is divided equally, across, into two
apartments, one of which is the cook room and common hall, and the
other their lodging room. The other house is nearly of the same
dimensions, standing about twenty yards from the dwelling house, its
end fronting the door. The building is two stories high, and
constructed in a different manner. It is divided transversely, as the
other, but the end next the dwelling house is open on three sides,
supported by posts or pillars. It has an open loft or platform, the
ascent to which is by a portable stair or ladder: this is a pleasant,
cool, airy situation, and here the master or chief of the family
retires to repose in the hot seasons, and receives his guests or
visitors. The other half of this building is closed on all sides by
notched logs; the lowest or ground part is a potatoe house, and the
upper story over it a granary for corn and other provisions. Their
houses are constructed of a kind of frame. In the first place, strong
corner pillars are fixed in the ground, with others somewhat less,
ranging on a line between; these are strengthened by cross pieces of
timber, and the whole with the roof is covered close with the bark of
the Cypress tree. The dwelling stands near the middle of a square yard,
encompassed by a low bank, formed with the earth taken out of the yard,
which is always carefully swept. Their towns are clean, the inhabitants
being particular in laying their filth at a proper distance from their
dwellings, which undoubtedly contributes to the healthiness of their
habitations.
The town stands on the most pleasant situation that could be well
imagined or desired, in an inland country; upon a high swelling ridge
of sand hills, within three or four hundred yards of a large and
beautiful lake, the circular shore of which continually washes a sandy
beach, under a moderately high sloping bank, terminated on one side by
extensive forests, consisting of Orange groves, overtopped with grand
Magnolias, Palms, Poplar, Tilia, Live Oaks, and others already noticed;
and the opposite point of the crescent, gradually retires with hommocky
projecting points, indenting the grassy marshes, and lastly terminates
in infinite green plains and meadows, united with the skies and waters
of the lake. Such a natural landscape, such a rural scene, is not to be
imitated by the united ingenuity and labour of man. At present the
ground betwixt the town and the lake is adorned by an open grove of
very tall Pine trees, which standing at a considerable distance from
each other, admit a delightful prospect of the sparkling waters. The
lake abounds with various excellent fish and wild fowl; there are
incredible numbers of the latter, especially in the winter season, when
they arrive here from the north to winter.
The Indians abdicated the ancient Alachua town on the borders of the
savanna, and built here, calling the new town Cuscowilla: their reasons
for removing their habitation were on account of its unhealthiness,
occasioned, as they say, by the stench of the putrid fish and reptiles
in the summer and autumn, driven on shore by the alligators, and the
exhalations from marshes of the savanna, together with the persecutions
of the musquitoes.
They plant but little here about the town, only a small garden pot at
each habitation, consisting of a little Corn, Beans, Tobacco, Citruls,
&c. Their plantation, which supplies them with the chief of their
vegetable provisions, such as Zea, Convolvulus batata, Cucurbita
citrulus, Cuc. lagenaria, Cuc. pepo, Cuc. melopepo, Cuc. verrucosa,
Dolichos varieties, &c. lies on the rich prolific lands bordering on
the great Alachua savanna, about two miles distance. This plantation is
one common enclosure, and is worked and tended by the whole community;
yet every family has its particular part, according to its own
appointment, marked off when planted, and this portion receives the
common labour and assistance until ripe, when each family gathers and
deposits in its granary its own proper share, setting apart a small
gift or contribution for the public granary, which stands in the centre
of the plantation.
The youth, under the supervisal of some of their ancient people, are
daily stationed in their fields, who are continually whooping and
hallooing, to chase away crows, jackdaws, black-birds and such
predatory animals; and the lads are armed with bows and arrows, and
being trained up to it from their early youth, are sure at a mark, and
in the course of the day load themselves with squirrels, birds, &c. The
men in turn patrole the corn fields at night, to protect their
provisions from the depredations of night rovers, as bears, raccoons
and deer; the two former being immoderately fond of young corn, when
the grain is filled with a rich milk, as sweet and nourishing as cream;
and the deer are as fond of the Potatoe vines.
After the feast was over, we returned to our encampment on the great
savanna, towards the evening. Our companions whom we left at the camp,
were impatient for our return, having been out horse hunting in the
plains and groves during our absence. They soon left us, on a visit to
the town, having there some female friends, with whom they were anxious
to renew their acquaintance. The Siminole girls are by no means
destitute of charms to please the rougher sex: the white traders are
fully sensible how greatly it is to their advantage to gain their
affections and friendship in matters of trade and commerce; and if
their love and esteem for each other is sincere, and upon principles of
reciprocity, there are but few instances of their neglecting or
betraying the interests and views of their temporary husbands; they
labour and watch constantly to promote their private interests, and
detect and prevent any plots or evil designs which may threaten their
persons, or operate against their trade or business.
In the cool of the evening I embraced the opportunity of making a
solitary excursion round the adjacent lawns. Taking my fusee with me, I
soon came up to a little clump of shrubs, upon a swelling green knoll,
where I observed several large snakes entwined together. I stepped up
near them; they appeared to be innocent and peaceable, having no
inclination to strike at any thing, though I endeavoured to irritate
them, in order to discover their disposition; nor were they anxious to
escape from me. This snake is about four feet in length and as thick as
a man’s wrist; the upper side of a dirty ash colour; the squamæ large,
ridged and pointed; the belly or under side of a reddish dull flesh
colour; the tail part not long, but slender, like most other innocent
snakes. They prey on rats, land frogs, young rabbits, birds, &c. I left
them, continuing my progress and researches, delighted with the ample
prospects around and over the savanna.
Stopping again at a natural shrubbery, on turning my eyes to some
flowering shrubs, I observed near my feet, the surprising glass snake
(anguis fragilis). It seems as innocent and harmless as a worm. It is,
when full grown, two feet and an half in length, and three-fourths of
an inch in thickness; the abdomen or body part is remarkably short, and
it seems to be all tail, which, though long, gradually attenuates to
its extremity, yet not small and slender as in switch snakes. The
colour and texture of the whole animal is so exactly like bluish green
glass, which, together with its fragility, almost persuades a stranger
that it is in reality of that brittle substance: but it is only the
tail part that breaks off, which it does like glass, by a very gentle
stroke from a slender switch. Though it is quick and nimble in twisting
about, yet it cannot run fast from one, but quickly secrets itself at
the bottom of the grass or under leaves. It is a vulgar fable, that it
is able to repair itself after being broken into several pieces; which
pieces, common report says, by a power or faculty in the animal,
voluntarily approach each other, join and heal again. The sun now low,
shot the pointed shadows of the projecting promontories far on the
skirts of the lucid green plain: flocks of turkeys calling upon their
strolling associates, circumspectly marched onward to the groves and
high forests, their nocturnal retreats. Dewy eve now arrived. I turned
about and regained our encampment in good time.
The morning cool and pleasant, and the skies serene, we decamped,
pursuing our progress round the Alachua savanna. Three of our
companions separating from us, went ahead and we soon lost sight of
them: they again parting on different excursions, in quest of game and
in search of their horses, some entered the surrounding groves and
forests, others struck off into the green plains. My companion, the old
trader, and myself kept together, he being the most intelligent and
willing to oblige me. We coasted the green verge of the plain, under
the surrounding hills, occasionally penetrating and crossing the
projecting promontories, as the pathway or conveniency dictated, to
avoid the waters and mud which still continued deep and boggy near the
steep hills, in springy places; so that when we came to such places, we
found it convenient to ascend and coast round the sides of the hills,
or strike out a little into the savanna, to a moderately swelling
ridge, where the ground being dry, and a delightful green turf, was
pleasant travelling; but then we were under the necessity of fording
creeks or rivulets, which are the conduits or drains of the shallow
boggy ponds or morasses just under the hills. This range or chain of
morasses continues round the South and South-West border of the
savanna, and appeared to me to be fed or occasioned by the great wet
bay-gale or savanna Pine lands, which lie immediately back of the high
hilly forests on the great savanna, part of which we crossed in coming
from Cuscowilla; which bottom is a flat, level, hard sand, lying
between the sand ridge of Cuscowilla and these eminences of the great
savanna; and is a vast receptacle or reservoir of the rain waters,
which being defended from the active and powerful exhalations of the
meridian sun, by the shadow of the Pine trees, low shrubs and grass,
gradually filtering through the sand, drain through these hills, and
present themselves in innumerable little meandering rills, at the bases
of the shady heights fronting the savanna.
Our progress this day was extremely pleasant, over the green turf,
having in view numerous herds of cattle and deer, and squadrons of
horse, peaceably browzing on the tender, sweet grass, or strolling
through the cool fragrant groves on the surrounding heights.
Besides the continued Orange groves, these heights abound with Palms,
Magnolias, Red Bays, Liquidambar, and Fagus sylvatica of incredible
magnitude, their trunks imitating the shafts of vast columns: we
observed Cassine, Prunus, Vitis labrusca, Rhamnus volubilis, and
delightful groves of Æsculus pavia, Prunus Caroliniana, a most
beautiful evergreen, decorated with its racemes of sweet, white
blossoms.
Passing through a great extent of ancient Indian fields, now grown over
with forests of stately trees, Orange groves, and luxuriant herbage,
the old trader, my associate, informed me it was the ancient Alachua,
the capital of that famous and powerful tribe, who peopled the hills
surrounding the savanna, when, in days of old, they could assemble by
thousands at ball play and other juvenile diversions and athletic
exercises, over those, then happy, fields and green plains. And there
is no reason to doubt of his account being true, as almost every step
we take over those fertile heights, discovers remains and traces of
ancient human habitations and cultivation. It is the most elevated
eminence upon the savanna; and here the hills descend gradually to the
savanna, by a range of gentle, grassy banks. Arriving at a swelling
green knoll, at some distance in the plains, near the banks of a pond,
opposite the old Alachua town, the place appointed for our meeting
again together, it being near night, our associates soon after joined
us, where we lodged. Early next morning we continued our tour; one
division of our company directing its course across the plains to the
north coast: my old companion, with myself in company, continued our
former route, coasting the savanna W. and N. W.; and by agreement we
were all to meet again at night, at the E. end of the savanna.
We continued some miles crossing over, from promontory to promontory,
the most enchanting green coves and vistas, scolloping and indenting
the high coasts of the vast plain. Observing a company of wolves (lupus
niger) under a few trees, about a quarter of a mile from shore, we rode
up towards them; they observing our approach, sitting on their hinder
parts until we came nearly within shot of them, when they trotted off
towards the forests, but stopped again and looked at us, at about two
hundred yards distance: we then whooped, and made a feint to pursue
them; when they separated from each other, some stretching off into the
plains, and others seeking covert in the groves on shore. When we got
to the trees, we observed they had been feeding on the carcase of a
horse. The wolves of Florida are larger than a dog, and are perfectly
black, except the females, which have a white spot on the breast; but
they are not so large as the wolves of Canada and Pennsylvania, which
are of a yellowish brown colour. There were a number of vultures on the
trees over the carcase, who, as soon as the wolves ran off, immediately
settled down upon it; they were however held in restraint and
subordination by the bald eagle (falco leucocephalus.)
On our route near a long projected point of the coast, we observed a
large flock of turkeys: at our approach they hastened to the groves. We
soon gained the promontory. On the ascending hills were vestiges of an
ancient Indian town, now overshadowed with groves of the Orange, loaded
with both green and ripe fruit, and embellished with their fragrant
bloom, gratifying the taste, the sight, and the smell at the same
instant. Leaving this delightful retreat, we soon came to the verge of
the groves, when presented to view a vast verdant bay of the savanna.
We discovered a herd of deer feeding at a small distance; upon the
sight of us they ran off, taking shelter in the groves on the opposite
point or cape of this spacious meadow. My companions being old expert
hunters, quickly concerted a plan for their destruction. One of our
company immediately struck off, obliquely crossing the meadow for the
opposite groves, in order to intercept them, if they should continue
their course up the forest, to the main; and we crossed straight over
to the point, if possible to keep them in sight, and watch their
motions, knowing that they would make a stand thereabouts, before they
would attempt their last escape. On drawing near the point, we
slackened our pace, and cautiously entered the groves; when we beheld
them thoughtless and secure, flouncing in a sparkling pond, in a green
meadow or cove beyond the point; some were lying down on their sides in
the cool waters, whilst others were prancing like young kids; the young
bucks in playsome sport, with their sharp horns hooking and spurring
the others, urging them to splash the water.
I endeavoured to plead for their lives, but my old friend, though he
was a sensible, rational and good sort of man, would not yield to my
philosophy. He requested me to mind our horses, while he made his
approaches, cautiously gaining ground on them, from tree to tree, when
they all suddenly sprang up and herded together: a princely buck, who
headed the party, whistled and bounded off; his retinue followed; but
unfortunately for their chief, he led them with prodigious speed out
towards the savanna very near us, and when passing by, the lucky old
hunter fired and laid him prostrate upon the green turf, but a few
yards from us. His affrighted followers at the instant sprang off in
every direction, streaming away like meteors or phantoms, and we
quickly lost sight of them. He opened his body, took out the entrails,
and placed the carcase in the fork of a tree, casting his frock or
hunting shirt over to protect it from the vultures and crows, who
follow the hunter as regularly as his own shade.
Our companions soon arrived, we set forward again, enjoying the like
scenes we had already past; observed parties of Siminole horses
coursing over the plains, and frequently saw deer, turkeys, and wolves,
but they knew their safety here, keeping far enough out of our reach.
The wary, sharp-sighted crane, circumspectly observed our progress. We
saw a female of them sitting on her nest, and the male, her mate,
watchfully traversing backwards and forwards, at a small distance; they
suffered us to approach near them before they arose, when they spread
their wings, running and tipping the ground with their feet some time,
and then mounted aloft, soaring round and round over the nest. They sit
upon only two eggs at a time, which are very large, long and pointed at
one end, of a pale ash colour, powdered or speckled with brown. The
manner of forming their nests and sitting is very singular: choosing a
tussock and there forming a rude heap of dry grass, or such like
materials, near as high as their body is from the ground, when standing
upon their feet, on the summit of this they form the nest of fine soft
dry grass. When they cover their eggs to hatch them, they stand over
them, bearing their bodies and wings over the eggs.
We again came up to a long projecting point of the high forests, beyond
which opened to view an extensive grassy cove of the savanna, several
miles in circuit. We crossed straight over from this promontory to the
opposite coast, and on the way were constrained to wade a mile or more
through the water, though at a little distance from us it appeared as a
delightful meadow, the grass growing through the water, the middle of
which, however, when we came up, proved to be a large space of clear
water, almost deep enough to swim our horses; it being a large branch
of the main creek which drains the savanna. After getting through this
morass, we arrived on a delightful, level, green meadow, as usual,
which continued about a mile, when we reached the firm land; and then
gradually ascending, we alighted on a hard sandy beach, which exhibited
evident signs of being washed by the waves of the savanna, when in the
winter season it is all under water, and then presents the appearance
of a large lake. The coast here is much lower than the opposite side,
which we had left behind us, and rises from the meadows with a gradual
sloping ascent, covered scatteringly with low spreading Live Oaks,
short Palms, Zanthoxylon, Laurus Borbonia, Cassine, Sideroxylon,
Quercus nigra, Q. sinuata and others; all leaning from the bleak winds
that oppress them. About one hundred yards back from this beach, the
sand hills gradually rise, and the open pine forests appear. We coasted
a mile or two along the beach, then doubled a promontory of high
forests, and soon after came to a swift running brook of clear water,
rolling over gravel and white sand, which being brought along with it,
in its descent down the steeper sandy beach, formed an easy swelling
bank or bar. The waters spread greatly at this place, exhibiting a
shallow glittering sheet of clear water, but just sufficient
continually to cover the clear gravelly bed, and seemed to be sunk a
little below the common surface of the beach. This stream, however, is
soon separated into a number of rivulets, by small sandy and gravelly
ridges, and the waters are finally stolen away from the sight, by a
charming green meadow, but again secretly uniting under the tall grass,
form a little creek, meandering through the turfy plain, marking its
course by reeds and rushes, which spring up from its banks, joining the
main creek that runs through the savanna, and at length delivers the
water into the Great Sink. Proceeding about a mile farther, we came up
to and crossed another brook, larger than the former, which exhibited
the like delightful appearance. We next passed over a level green lawn,
a cove of the savanna, and arrived at a hilly grove. We alighted in a
pleasant vista, turning our horses to graze while we amused ourselves
with exploring the borders of the Great Sink. In this place a group of
rocky hills almost surrounds a large bason, which is the general
receptacle of the water, draining from every part of the vast savanna
by lateral conduits, winding about, and one after another joining the
main creek or general conductor, which at length delivers them into
this sink; where they descend by slow degrees, through rocky caverns,
into the bowels of the earth, whence they are carried by secret
subterraneous channels into other receptacles and basons.
We ascended a collection of eminences, covered with dark groves, which
is one point of the crescent that partly encircles the sink or bason,
open only on the side next the savanna, where it is joined to the great
channel or general conductor of the waters. From this point over to the
opposite point of the crescent (which is a similar high rocky
promontory) is about one hundred yards, forming a vast semicircular
cove or bason, the hills encircling it rising very steep fifty or sixty
feet high, rocky, perpendicular, and bare of earth next the waters of
the bason. These hills, from the top of the perpendicular, fluted,
excavated walls of rock, slant off moderately up to their summits, and
are covered with a very fertile, loose, black earth, which nourishes
and supports a dark grove of very large trees, varieties of shrubs and
herbaceous plants. These high forest trees surrounding the bason, by
their great height and spread, so effectually shade the waters, that
coming suddenly from the open plains, we seem at once shut up in
darkness, and the waters appear black, yet are clear. When we ascend
the top of the hills, we perceive the ground to be uneven, by round
swelling points and corresponding hollows, overspread with gloomy
shade, occasioned by the tall and spreading trees, such as Live Oak,
Morus rubra, Zanthoxylon, Sapindus, Liquidambar, Tilia, Laurus
Borbonia, Quercus dentata, Juglans cinerea, and others, together with
Orange trees of remarkable magnitude and very fruitful. But that which
is most singular and to me unaccountable, is the infundibuliform
cavities, even on the top of these high hills, some twenty, thirty and
forty yards across, at their superficial rims exactly circular, as if
struck with a compass, sloping gradually inwards to a point at bottom,
forming an inverted cone, or like the upper wide part of a funnel; the
perpendicular depth of them from the common surface is various, some
descending twenty feet deep, others almost to the bed of rocks, which
forms the foundation or nucleus of the hills, and indeed of the whole
country of East Florida; some of them seem to be nearly filled up with
earth, swept in from the common surface, but retain the same
uniformity; though sometimes so close together as to be broken one into
another. But as I shall have occasion to speak further of these sinks
in the earth hereafter, I turn my observation to other objects in view
round about me. In and about the Great Sink, are to be seen incredible
numbers of crocodiles, some of which are of an enormous size, and view
the passenger with incredible impudence and avidity; and at this time
they are so abundant, that, if permitted by them, I could walk over any
part of the bason and the river upon their heads, which slowly float
and turn about like knotty chuncks or logs of wood, except when they
plunge or shoot forward to beat off their associates, pressing too
close to each other, or taking up fish, which continually crowd in upon
them from the river and creeks draining from the savanna, especially
the great trout, mudfish, catfish, and the various species of bream:
the gar are rather too hard for their jaws and rough for their throats,
especially here, where they have a superfluous plenty and variety of
those that are every way preferable; besides, the gar being, like
themselves, a warlike voracious creature, they seem to be in league or
confederacy together, to enslave and devour the numerous defenceless
tribes.
It is astonishing and incredible, perhaps, I may say, to relate what
unspeakable numbers of fish repair to this fatal fountain or
receptacle, during the latter summer season and autumn, when the
powerful sunbeams have evaporated the waters off the savanna; where
those who are so fortunate as to effect a retreat into the conductor,
and escape the devouring jaws of the fearful alligator and armed gar,
descend into the earth through the wells and cavities or vast
perforations of the rocks, and from thence are conducted and carried
away, by secret subterranean conduits and gloomy vaults, to other
distant lakes and rivers. And it does not appear improbable, but that
in some future day this vast savanna or lake of waters in the winter
season will be discovered to be in a great measure filled with its
finny inhabitants, who are strangers or adventurers from other lakes,
ponds, and rivers, by subterraneous rivulets and communications to this
rocky, dark door or outlet, whence they ascend to its surface, spread
over and people the winter lake, where they breed, increase, and
continue as long as it is under water, or during pleasure, for they are
at all seasons to be seen ascending and descending through the rocks;
but towards the autumn, when the waters have almost left the plains,
they then crowd to the sink in such multitudes, as at times to be seen
pressing on in great banks into the bason, being urged by pursuing
bands of alligators and gar, and when entering the great bason or sink,
are suddenly fallen upon by another army of the same devouring enemies,
lying in wait for them. Thousands are driven on shore, where they
perish and rot in banks, which was evident at the time I was there, the
stench being intollerable, although then early in the summer. There are
three great doors or vent holes through the rocks in the sink, two near
the centre and the other one near the rim, much higher up than the
other two, which was conspicuous through the clear water. The beds of
rocks lay in horizontal thick strata or laminæ, one over the other,
where the sink-holes or outlets are. These rocks are perforated by
perpendicular wells or tubes, four, five, and six feet in diameter,
exactly circular as the tube of a cannon or walled well; many of these
are broken into one another, forming a great ragged orifice, appearing
fluted by alternate jambs and semicircular perpendicular niches or
excavations.
Having satisfied my curiosity in viewing this extraordinary place and
very wonderful work of nature, we repaired to our resting place, where
we found our horses and mounted again; one of the company parting from
us for the buck that we had shot and left in the fork of the tree. My
friend, the old trader, led the shortest way across the plain, after
repassing the wet morass which had almost swum our horses in the
morning. At evening we arrived at the place of our destination, where
our associates soon after rejoined us with some Indians, who were merry
agreeable guests as long as they staid. They were in full dress and
painted; but before dark they mounted their horses, which were of the
true Siminole breed, set spurs to them, uttering all at once a shrill
whoop, and went off for Cuscowilla.
Though the horned cattle and horses bred in these meadows are large,
sleek, sprightly, and as fat as can be in general, yet they are subject
to mortal diseases. I observed several of them dreadfully mortified,
their thighs and haunches ulcerated, raw, and bleeding, which, like a
mortification or slow cancer, at length puts an end to their miserable
existence. The traders and Indians call this disease the water-rot or
scald, and say it is occasioned by the warm waters of the savanna,
during the heats of summer and autumn, when these creatures wade deep
to feed on the water-grass, which they are immoderately fond of;
whereas the cattle which only feed and range in the high forests and
Pine savannas are clear of this disorder. A sacrifice to intemperance
and luxury.
We had heavy rains during the night, and though very warm, yet no
thunder and very little wind. It cleared away in the morning, and the
day was very pleasant. Sat off for the east end of the savanna,
collecting by the way and driving before us parties of horses, the
property of the traders; and next morning sat off on our return to the
lower store on St. John’s, coasting the savanna yet a few miles, in
expectation of finding the remainder of their horses, though
disappointed.
We at last bid adieu to the magnificent plains of Alachua, entered the
Pine forests, and soon fell into the old Spanish highway, from St.
Augustine across the isthmus of Florida, to St. Mark’s in the bay of
Apalache. Its course and distance from E. to W. is, from St. Augustine
to Fort Picolata on the river St. Juan, twenty-seven miles; thence
across the river to the Poopoa Fort, three miles; thence to the Alachua
Savanna, forty-five miles; thence to Talahasochte on the river Little
St. Juan, seventy-five miles; thence down this river to St. Mark’s,
thirty miles; the whole distance from St. Augustine to St. Mark’s, one
hundred and eighty miles. But that road having been unfrequented for
many years past, since the Creeks subdued the remnant tribes of the
ancient Floridans, and drove the Spaniards from their settlements in
East Florida into St. Augustine, which effectually cut off their
communication between that garrison and St. Mark’s; this ancient
highway is grown up in many places with trees and shrubs; but yet has
left so deep a track on the surface of the earth, that it may be traced
for ages yet to come.
Leaving the highway on our left hand, we ascended a sandy ridge, thinly
planted by nature with stately Pines and Oaks, of the latter genus,
particularly Q. sinuata, S. flammula, Q. nigra, Q. rubra. Passed by an
Indian village situated on this high airy sand ridge, consisting of
four or five habitations; none of the people were at home, they were
out at their hunting camps; we observed plenty of corn in their cribs.
Following a hunting path eight or nine miles, through a vast Pine
forest and grassy savanna, well timbered, the ground covered with a
charming carpet of various flowering plants, came to a large creek of
excellent water, and here we found the encampment of the Indians, the
inhabitants of the little town we had passed; we saw their women and
children, the men being out hunting. The women presented themselves to
our view as we came up, at the door of their tents, veiled in their
mantle, modestly showing their faces, when we saluted them. Towards the
evening we fell into the old trading path, and before night came to
camp at the Halfway Pond. Next morning, after collecting together the
horses, some of which had strolled away at a great distance, we pursued
our journey, and in the evening arrived at the trading house on St.
Juan’s, from a successful and pleasant tour.
On my return to the store on St. Juan’s the trading schooner was there,
but as she was not to return to Georgia until the autumn, I found I had
time to pursue my travels in Florida, and might at leisure plan my
excursions to collect seeds and roots in boxes, &c.
At this time the talks (or messages between the Indians and white
people) were perfectly peaceable and friendly, both with the Lower
Creeks and the Nation or Upper Creeks. Parties of Indians were coming
in every day with their hunts; indeed the Muscogulges or Upper Creeks
very seldom disturb us. Bad talks from the Nation is always a very
serious affair, and to the utmost degree alarming to the white
inhabitants.
The Muscogulges are under a more strict government or regular
civilization than the Indians in general. They lie near their potent
and declared enemy, the Chactaws. Their country having a vast frontier,
naturally accessible and open to the incursions of their enemies on all
sides, they find themselves under the necessity of associating in large
populous towns, and these towns as near together as convenient, that
they may be enabled to succour and defend one another in case of sudden
invasion. This consequently occasions deer and bear to be scarce and
difficult to procure, which obliges them to be vigilent and
industrious; this naturally begets care and serious attention, which we
may suppose in some degree forms their natural disposition and manners,
and gives them that air of dignified gravity, so strikingly
characteristic in their aged people, and that steadiness, just and
cheerful reverence in the middle-aged and youth, which sits so easy
upon them, and appears so natural. For, however strange it may appear
to us, the same moral duties which with us form the amiable, virtuous
character, so difficult to maintain there, without compulsion or
visible restraint, operates like instinct, with a surprising harmony
and natural ease, insomuch that it seems impossible for them to act out
of the common high road to virtue.
We will now take a view of the Lower Creeks or Siminoles, and the
natural disposition which characterises this people; when, from the
striking contrast, the philosopher may approve or disapprove, as he may
think proper, from the judgment and opinion given by different men.
The Siminoles, but a weak people with respect to numbers. All of them,
I suppose, would not be sufficient to people one of the towns in the
Muscogulge; for instance, the Uches on the main branch of the
Apalachucla river, which alone contains near two thousand inhabitants.
Yet this handful of people possesses a vast territory; all East Florida
and the greastest part of West Florida, which being naturally cut and
divided into thousands of islets, knolls, and eminences, by the
innumerable rivers, lakes, swamps, vast savannas and ponds, form so
many secure retreats and temporary dwelling places, that effectually
guard them from any sudden invasions or attacks from their enemies; and
being such a swampy, hommocky country, furnishes such a plenty and
variety of supplies for the nourishment of varieties of animals, that I
can venture to assert, that no part of the globe so abounds with wild
game or creatures fit for the food of man.
Thus they enjoy a superabundance of the necessaries and conveniencies
of life, with the security of person and property, the two great
concerns of mankind. The hides of deer, bears, tigers and wolves,
together with honey, wax and other productions of the country, purchase
their clothing, equipage and domestic utensils from the whites. They
seem to be free from want or desires. No cruel enemy to dread; nothing
to give them disquietude, but the gradual encroachments of the white
people. Thus contented and undisturbed, they appear as blithe and free
as the birds of the air, and like them as volatile and active, tuneful
and vociferous. The visage, action and deportment of the Siminoles,
form the most striking picture of happiness in this life; joy,
contentment, love and friendship, without guile or affection, seem
inherent in them, or predominant in their vital principle, for it
leaves them but with the last breath of life. It even seems imposing a
constraint upon their ancient chiefs and senators, to maintain a
necessary decorum and solemnity, in their public councils; not even the
debility and decrepitude of extreme old age, is sufficient to erase
from their visages, this youthful, joyous simplicity; but, like the
grey eve of a serene and calm day, a gladdening, cheering blush remains
on the western horizon after the sun is set.
I doubt not but some of my countrymen who may read these accounts of
the Indians, which I have endeavoured to relate according to truth, at
least as they appeared to me, will charge me with partiality or
prejudice in their favour.
I will, however, now endeavour to exhibit their vices, immoralities,
and imperfections, from my own observations and knowledge, as well as
accounts from the white traders, who reside amongst them.
The Indians make war against, kill and destroy their own species, and
their motives spring from the same erroneous source as they do in all
other nations of mankind; that is, the ambition of exhibiting to their
fellows a superior character of personal and national valour, and
thereby immortalizing themselves, by transmitting their names with
honour and lustre to posterity; or in revenge of their enemy, for
public or personal insults; or lastly, to extend the borders and
boundaries of their territories. But I cannot find upon the strictest
enquiry, that their bloody contests at this day are marked with deeper
stains of inhumanity or savage cruelty, than what may be observed
amongst the most civilized nations: they do indeed scalp their slain
enemy, but they do not kill the females or children of either sex: the
most ancient traders, both in the Lower and Upper Creeks, assured me
they never saw an instance of either burning or tormenting their male
captives; though it is said they used to do it formerly. I saw in every
town in the Nation and Siminoles that I visited, more or less male
captives, some extremely aged, who were free and in as good
circumstances as their masters; and all slaves have their freedom when
they marry, which is permitted and encouraged, when they and their
offspring are every way upon an equality with their conquerors. They
are given to adultery and fornication, but, I suppose, in no greater
excess than other nations of men. They punish the delinquents, male and
female, equally alike, by taking off their ears. This is the punishment
for adultery. Infamy and disgrace is supposed to be a sufficient
punishment for fornication, in either sex.
They are fond of games and gambling, and amuse themselves like
children, in relating extravagant stories, to cause surprise and mirth.
They wage eternal war against deer and bear, to procure food and
clothing, and other necessaries and conveniences; which is indeed
carried to an unreasonable and perhaps criminal excess, since the white
people have dazzled their senses with foreign superfluities.
[30] Testudo naso cylindraceo elongato, truncato.
[31] Cuculus Caroliniensis.
[32] Great Ockli-Waha.
[33] Alluding to his tail.