CHAPTER V.

Being desirous of continuing my travels and observations higher up the

river, and having an invitation from a gentleman who was agent for, and

resident at, a large plantation, the property of an English gentleman,

about sixty miles higher up, I resolved to persue my researches to that

place; and having engaged in my service a young Indian, nephew to the

White Captain, he agreed to assist me in working my vessel up as high

as a certain bluff, where I was, by agreement, to land him, on the west

or Indian shore, whence he designed to go in quest of the camp of the

White Trader, his relation.

Provisions and all necessaries being procured, and the morning

pleasant, we went on board and stood up the river. We passed for

several miles on the left, by islands of high swamp land, exceedingly

fertile, their banks for a good distance from the water, much higher

than the interior part, and sufficiently so to build upon, and be out

of the reach of inundations. They consist of a loose black mould, with

a mixture of sand, shells and dissolved vegetables. The opposite Indian

coast is a perpendicular bluff, ten or twelve feet high, consisting of

a black sandy earth, mixed with a large proportion of shells, chiefly

various species of fresh water Cochleæ and Mytuli. Near the river, on

this high shore, grew Corypha palma, Magnolia grandiflora, Live Oak,

Callicarpa, Myrica cerifera, Hibiscus spinifex, and the beautiful

evergreen shrub called Wild lime or Tallow nut. This last shrub grows

six or eight feet high, many erect stems spring from a root; the leaves

are lanceolate and intire, two or three inches in length and one in

breadth, of a deep green colour, and polished; at the foot of each leaf

grows a stiff sharp thorn; the flowers are small and in clusters, of a

greenish yellow colour, and sweet scented; they are succeeded by a

large oval fruit, of the shape and size of an ordinary plumb, of a fine

yellow colour when ripe; a soft sweet pulp covers a nut which has a

thin shell, enclosing a white kernel somewhat of the consistence and

taste of the sweet Almond, but more oily and very much like hard

tallow, which induced my father when he first observed it, to call it

the Tallow nut.

At the upper end of this bluff is a fine Orange grove. Here my Indian

companion requested me set him on shore, being already tired of rowing

under a fervid sun, and having for some time intimated a dislike to his

situation, I readily complied with his desire, knowing the

impossibility of compelling an Indian against his own inclinations, or

even prevailing upon him by reasonable arguments, when labour is in the

question. Before my vessel reached the shore, he sprang out of her and

landed, when uttering a shrill and terrible whoop, he bounded off like

a roebuck, and I lost sight of him. I at first apprehended, that as he

took his gun with him, he intended to hunt for some game and return to

me in the evening. The day being excessively hot and sultry, I

concluded to take up my quarters here until next morning.

The Indian not returning this morning, I sat sail alone. The coasts on

each side had much the same appearance as already described. The Palm

trees here seem to be of a different species from the Cabbage tree;

their straight trunks are sixty, eighty, or ninety feet high, with a

beautiful taper of a bright ash colour, until within six or seven feet

of the top, where it is a fine green colour, crowned with an orb of

rich green plumed leaves: I have measured the stem of these plumes

fifteen feet in length, besides the plume, which is nearly of the same

length.

The little lake, which is an expansion of the river, now appeared in

view; on the east side are extensive marshes, and on the other high

forests and Orange groves, and then a bay, lined with vast Cypress

swamps, both coasts gradually approaching each other, to the opening of

the river again, which is in this place about three hundred yards wide.

Evening now drawing on, I was anxious to reach some high bank of the

river, where I intended to lodge; and agreeably to my wishes, I soon

after discovered on the west shore, a little promontory, at the turning

of the river, contracting it here to about one hundred and fifty yards

in width. This promontory is a peninsula, containing about three acres

of high ground, and is one entire Orange grove, with a few Live Oaks,

Magnolias and Palms. Upon doubling the point, I arrived at the landing,

which is a circular harbour, at the foot of the bluff, the top of which

is about twelve feet high; the back of it is a large Cypress swamp,

that spreads each way, the right wing forming the west coast of the

little lake, and the left stretching up the river many miles, and

encompassing a vast space of low grassy marshes. From this promontory,

looking eastward across the river, I beheld a landscape of low country,

uparalleled as I think; on the left is the east coast of the little

lake, which I had just passed, and from the Orange bluff at the lower

end, the high forests begin, and increase in breadth from the shore of

the lake, making a circular sweep to the right, and contain many

hundred thousand acres of meadow, and this grand sweep of high forests

encircles, as I apprehend, at least twenty miles of these green fields,

interspersed with hommocks or islets of evergreen trees, where the

sovereign Magnolia and lordly Palm stand conspicuous. The islets are

high shelly knolls, on the sides of creeks or branches of the river,

which wind about and drain off the super-abundant waters that cover

these meadows, during the winter season.

The evening was temperately cool and calm. The crocodiles began to roar

and appear in uncommon numbers along the shores and in the river. I

fixed my camp in an open plain, near the utmost projection of the

promontory, under the shelter of a large Live Oak, which stood on the

highest part of the ground, and but a few yards from my boat. From this

open, high situation, I had a free prospect of the river, which was a

matter of no trivial consideration to me, having good reason to dread

the subtle attacks of the alligators, who were crowding about my

harbour. Having collected a good quantity of wood for the purpose of

keeping up a light and smoke during the night, I began to think of

preparing my supper, when, upon examining my stores, I found but a

scanty provision, I thereupon determined, as the most expeditious way

of supplying my necessities, to take my bob and try for some trout.

About one hundred yards above my harbour, began a cove or bay of the

river, out of which opened a large lagoon. The mouth or entrance from

the river to it was narrow, but the waters soon after spread and formed

a little lake, extending into the marshes: its entrance and shores

within I observed to be verged with floating lawns of the Pistia and

Nymphea and other aquatic plants; these I knew were excellent haunts

for trout.

The verges and islets of the lagoon were elegantly embellished with

flowering plants and shrubs; the laughing coots with wings half spread

were tripping over the little coves, and hiding themselves in the tufts

of grass; young broods of the painted summer teal, skimming the still

surface of the waters, and following the watchful parent unconscious of

danger, were frequently surprised by the voracious trout; and he, in

turn, as often by the subtle greedy alligator. Behold him rushing forth

from the flags and reeds. His enormous body swells. His plaited tail

brandished high, floats upon the lake. The waters like a cataract

descend from his opening jaws. Clouds of smoke issue from his dilated

nostrils. The earth trembles with his thunder. When immediately from

the opposite coast of the lagoon, emerges from the deep his rival

champion. They suddenly dart upon each other. The boiling surface of

the lake marks their rapid course, and a terrific conflict commences.

They now sink to the bottom folded together in horrid wreaths. The

water becomes thick and discoloured. Again they rise, their jaws clap

together, re-echoing through the deep surrounding forests. Again they

sink, when the contest ends at the muddy bottom of the lake, and the

vanquished makes a hazardous escape, hiding himself in the muddy

turbulent waters and sedge on a distant shore. The proud victor

exulting returns to the place of action. The shores and forests resound

his dreadful roar, together with the triumphing shouts of the plaited

tribes around, witnesses of the horrid combat.

My apprehensions were highly alarmed after being a spectator of so

dreadful a battle. It was obvious that every delay would but tend to

increase my dangers and difficulties, as the sun was near setting, and

the alligators gathered around my harbour from all quarters. From these

considerations I concluded to be expeditious in my trip to the lagoon,

in order to take some fish. Not thinking it prudent to take my fusee

with me, lest I might lose it overboard in case of a battle, which I

had every reason to dread before my return, I therefore furnished

myself with a club for my defence, went on board, and penetrating the

first line of those which surrounded my harbour, they gave way; but

being pursued by several very large ones, I kept strictly on the watch,

and paddled with all my might towards the entrance of the lagoon,

hoping to be sheltered there from the multitude of my assailants; but

ere I had half-way reached the place, I was attacked on all sides,

several endeavouring to overset the canoe. My situation now became

precarious to the last degree: two very large ones attacked me closely,

at the same instant, rushing up with their heads and part of their

bodies above the water, roaring terribly and belching floods of water

over me. They struck their jaws together so close to my ears, as almost

to stun me, and I expected every moment to be dragged out of the boat

and instantly devoured. But I applied my weapons so effectually about

me, though at random, that I was so successful as to beat them off a

little; when, finding that they designed to renew the battle, I made

for the shore, as the only means left me for my preservation; for, by

keeping close to it, I should have my enemies on one side of me only,

whereas I was before surrounded by them, and there was a probability,

if pushed to the last extremity, of saving myself, by jumping out of

the canoe on shore, as it is easy to outwalk them on land, although

comparatively as swift as lightning in the water. I found this last

expedient alone could fully answer my expectations, for as soon as I

gained the shore, they drew off and kept aloof. This was a happy

relief, as my confidence was, in some degree, recovered by it. On

recollecting myself, I discovered that I had almost reached the

entrance of the lagoon, and determined to venture in, if possible, to

take a few fish, and then return to my harbour, while day-light

continued; for I could now, with caution and resolution, make my way

with safety along shore; and indeed there was no other way to regain my

camp, without leaving my boat and making my retreat through the marshes

and reeds, which, if I could even effect, would have been in a manner

throwing myself away, for then there would have been no hopes of ever

recovering my bark, and returning in safety to any settlements of men.

I accordingly proceeded, and made good my entrance into the lagoon,

though not without opposition from the alligators, who formed a line

across the entrance, but did not pursue me into it, nor was I molested

by any there, though there were some very large ones in a cove at the

upper end. I soon caught more trout than I had present occasion for,

and the air was too hot and sultry to admit of their being kept for

many hours, even though salted or barbecued. I now prepared for my

return to camp, which I succeeded in with but little trouble, by

keeping close to the shore; yet I was opposed upon re-entering the

river out of the lagoon, and pursued near to my landing (though not

closely attacked), particularly by an old daring one, about twelve feet

in length, who kept close after me, and when I stepped on shore and

turned about, in order to draw up my canoe, he rushed up near my feet,

and lay there for some time, looking me in the face, his head and

shoulders out of water. I resolved he should pay for his temerity, and

having a heavy load in my fusee, I ran to my camp, and returning with

my piece, found him with his foot on the gunwale of the boat, in search

of fish. On my coming up he withdrew sullenly and slowly into the

water, but soon returned and placed himself in his former position,

looking at me and seeming neither fearful or any way disturbed. I soon

dispatched him by lodging the contents of my gun in his head, and then

proceeded to cleanse and prepare my fish for supper; and accordingly

took them out of the boat, laid them down on the sand close to the

water, and began to scale them; when, raising my head, I saw before me,

through the clear water, the head and shoulders of a very large

alligator, moving slowly towards me. I instantly stepped back, when,

with a sweep of his tail, he brushed off several of my fish. It was

certainly most providential that I looked up at that instant, as the

monster would probably, in less than a minute, have seized and dragged

me into the river. This incredible boldness of the animal disturbed me

greatly, supposing there could now be no reasonable safety for me

during the night, but by keeping continually on the watch: I therefore,

as soon as I had prepared the fish, proceeded to secure myself and

effects in the best manner I could. In the first place, I hauled my

bark upon the shore, almost clear out of the water, to prevent their

oversetting or sinking her; after this, every moveable was taken out

and carried to my camp, which was but a few yards off; then ranging

some dry wood in such order as was the most convenient, I cleared the

ground round about it, that there might be no impediment in my way, in

case of an attack in the night, either from the water or the land; for

I discovered by this time, that this small isthmus, from its remote

situation and fruitfulness, was resorted to by bears and wolves. Having

prepared myself in the best manner I could, I charged my gun, and

proceeded to reconnoitre my camp and the adjacent grounds; when I

discovered that the peninsula and grove, at the distance of about two

hundred yards from my encampment, on the land side, were invested by a

Cypress swamp, covered with water, which below was jointed to the shore

of the little lake, and above to the marshes surrounding the lagoon, so

that I was confined to an islet exceedingly circumscribed, and I found

there was no other retreat for me, in case of an attack, but by either

ascending one of the large Oaks, or pushing off with my boat.

It was by this time dusk, and the alligators had nearly ceased their

roar, when I was again alarmed by a tumultuous noise that seemed to be

in my harbour, and therefore engaged my immediate attention. Returning

to my camp, I found it undisturbed, and then continued on to the

extreme point of the promontory, where I saw a scene, new and

surprising, which at first threw my senses into such a tumult, that it

was some time before I could comprehend what was the matter; however, I

soon accounted for the prodigious assemblage of crocodiles at this

place, which exceeded every thing of the kind I had ever heard of.

How shall I express myself so as to convey an adequate idea of it to

the reader, and at the same time avoid raising suspicions of my

veracity? Should I say, that the river (in this place) from shore to

shore, and perhaps near half a mile above and below me, appeared to be

one solid bank of fish, of various kinds, pushing through this narrow

pass of St. Juan’s into the little lake, on their return down the

river, and that the alligators were in such incredible numbers, and so

close together from shore to shore, that it would have been easy to

have walked across on their heads, had the animals been harmless? What

expressions can sufficiently declare the shocking scene that for some

minutes continued, whilst this mighty army of fish were forcing the

pass? During this attempt, thousands, I may say hundreds of thousands,

of them were caught and swallowed by the devouring alligators. I have

seen an alligator take up out of the water several great fish at a

time, and just squeeze them betwixt his jaws, while the tails of the

great trout flapped about his eyes and lips, ere he had swallowed them.

The horrid noise of their closing jaws, their plunging amidst the

broken banks of fish, and rising with their prey some feet upright

above the water, the floods of water and blood rushing out of their

mouths, and the clouds of vapour issuing from their wide nostrils, were

truly frightful. This scene continued at intervals during the night, as

the fish came to the pass. After this sight, shocking and tremendous as

it was, I found myself somewhat easier and more reconciled to my

situation, being convinced that their extraordinary assemblage here,

was owing to this annual feast of fish, and that they were so well

employed in their own element, that I had little occasion to fear their

paying me a visit.

It being now almost night, I returned to my camp, where I had left my

fish broiling, and my kettle of rice stewing, and having with me oil,

pepper, and salt, and excellent oranges hanging in abundance over my

head (a valuable substitute for vinegar) I sat down and regaled myself

cheerfully. Having finished my repast, I rekindled my fire for light,

and whilst I was revising the notes of my past day’s journey, I was

suddenly roused with a noise behind me toward the main land. I sprang

up on my feet, and listning, I distinctly heard some creature wading in

the water of the isthmus. I seized my gun and went cautiously from my

camp, directing my steps towards the noise: when I had advanced about

thirty yards, I halted behind a coppice of Orange trees, and soon

perceived two very large bears, which had made their way through the

water, and had landed in the grove, about one hundred yards distance

from me, and were advancing towards me. I waited until they were within

thirty yards of me: they there began to snuff and look towards my camp:

I snapped my piece, but it flashed, on which they both turned about and

galloped off, plunging through the water and swamp, never halting as I

suppose, until they reached fast land, as I could hear them leaping and

plunging a long time. They did not presume to return again, nor was I

molested by any other creature, except being occasionally awakened by

the whooping of owls, screaming of bitterns, or the wood-rats running

amongst the leaves.

The wood-rat is a very curious animal. It is not half the size of the

domestic rat; of a dark brown or black colour; its tail slender and

shorter in proportion, and covered thinly with short hair. It is

singular with respect to its ingenuity and great labour in the

construction of its habitation, which is a conical pyramid about three

or four feet high, constructed with dry branches, which it collects

with great labour and perseverance, and piles up without any apparent

order, yet they are so interwoven with one another, that it it would

take a bear or wild cat some time to pull one of these castles to

pieces, and allow the animals sufficient time to secure a retreat with

their young.

The noise of the crocodiles kept me awake the greater part of the

night; but when I arose in the morning, contrary to my expectations,

there was perfect peace; very few of them to be seen, and those were

asleep on the shore. Yet I was not able to suppress my fears and

apprehensions of being attacked by them in future; and indeed

yesterday’s combat with them, notwithstanding I came off in a manner

victorious, or at least made a safe retreat, had left sufficient

impression on my mind to damp my courage, and it seemed too much for

one of my strength, being alone in a very small boat, to encounter such

collected danger. To pursue my voyage up the river, and be obliged

every evening to pass such dangerous defiles, appeared to me as

perilous as running the gauntlet betwixt two rows of Indians armed with

knives and fire brands. I however resolved to continue my voyage one

day longer, if I possibly could with safety, and then return down the

river, should I find the like difficulties to oppose. Accordingly I got

every thing on board, charged my gun, and set sail, cautiously, along

shore. As I passed by Battle lagoon, I began to tremble and keep a good

look-out; when suddenly a huge alligator rushed out of the reeds, and

with a tremendous roar came up, and darted as swift as an arrow under

my boat, emerging upright on my lee quarter, with open jaws, and

belching water and smoke that fell upon me like rain in a hurricane. I

laid soundly about his head with my club, and beat him off; and after

plunging and darting about my boat, he went off on a straight line

through the water, seemingly with the rapidity of lightning, and

entered the cape of the lagoon. I now employed my time to the very best

advantage in padling close along shore, but could not forbear looking

now and then behind me, and presently perceived one of them coming up

again. The water of the river hereabouts was shoal and very clear; the

monster came up with the usual roar and menaces, and passed close by

the side of my boat, when I could distinctly see a young brood of

alligators, to the number of one hundred or more, following after her

in a long train. They kept close together in a column, without

straggling off to the one side or the other; the young appeared to be

of an equal size, about fifteen inches in length, almost black, with

pale yellow transverse waved clouds or blotches, much like rattlesnakes

in colour. I now lost sight of my enemy again.

Still keeping close along shore, on turning a point or projection of

the river bank, at once I beheld a great number of hillocks or small

pyramids, resembling hay-cocks, ranged like an encampment along the

banks. They stood fifteen or twenty yards distant from the water, on a

high marsh, about four feet perpendicular above the water. I knew them

to be the nests of the crocodile, having had a description of them

before; and now expected a furious and general attack, as I saw several

large crocodiles swimming abreast of these buildings. These nests being

so great a curiosity to me, I was determined at all events immediately

to land and examine them. Accordingly I ran my bark on shore at one of

their landing-places, which was a sort of nick or little dock, from

which ascended a sloping path or road up to the edge of the meadow,

where their nests where; most of them were deserted, and the great

thick whitish egg-shells lay broken and scattered upon the ground round

about them.

The nests or hillocks are of the form of an obtuse cone, four feet high

and four or five feet in diameter at their bases; they are constructed

with mud, grass and herbage. At first they lay a floor of this kind of

tempered mortar on the ground, upon which they deposit a layer of eggs,

and upon this a stratum of mortar, seven or eight inches in thickness,

and then another layer of eggs; and in this manner one stratum upon

another, nearly to the top. I believe they commonly lay from one to two

hundred eggs in a nest: these are hatched, I suppose, by the heat of

the sun; and perhaps the vegetable substances mixed with the earth,

being acted upon by the sun, may cause a small degree of fermentation,

and so increase the heat in those hillocks. The ground for several

acres about these nests showed evident marks of a continual resort of

alligators; the grass was every where beaten down, hardly a blade or

straw was left standing; whereas, all about, at a distance, it was five

or six feet high, and as thick as it could grow together. The female,

as I imagine, carefully watches her own nest of eggs until they are all

hatched; or perhaps while she is attending her own brood, she takes

under her care and protection as many as she can get at one time,

either from her own particular nest or others: but certain it is, that

the young are not left to shift for themselves; for I have had frequent

opportunities of seeing the female alligator leading about the shores

her train of young ones, just as a hen does her brood of chickens; and

she is equally assiduous and courageous in defending the young, which

are under their care, and providing for their subsistence; and when the

is basking upon the warm banks, with her brood around her, you may hear

the young ones continually whining and barking, like young puppies. I

believe but few of a brood live to the years of full growth and

magnitude, as the old feed on the young as long as they can make prey

of them.

The alligator when full grown is a very large and terrible creature,

and of prodigous strength, activity and swiftness in the water. I have

seen them twenty feet in length, and some are supposed to be twenty-two

or twenty-three feet. Their body is as large as that of a horse; their

shape exactly resembles that of a lizard, except their tail, which is

flat or cuneiform, being compressed on each side, and gradually

diminishing from the abdomen to the extremity, which, with the whole

body is covered with horny plates or squammæ, impenetrable when on the

body of the live animal, even to a rifle ball, except about their head

and just behind their fore-legs or arms, where it is said they are only

vulnerable. The head of a full grown one is about three feet, and the

mouth opens nearly the same length; their eyes are small in proportion

and seem sunk deep in the head, by means of the prominency of the

brows; the nostrils are large, inflated and prominent on the top, so

that the head in the water resembles, at a distance, a great chunk of

wood floating about. Only the upper jaw moves, which they raise almost

perpendicular, so as to form a right angle with the lower one. In the

fore-part of the upper jaw, on each side, just under the nostrils, are

two very large, thick, strong teeth or tusks, not very sharp, but

rather the shape of a cone: these are as white as the finest polished

ivory, and are not covered by any skin or lips, and always in sight,

which gives the creature a frightful appearance: in the lower jaw are

holes opposite to these teeth, to receive them: when they clap their

jaws together it causes a surprising noise, like that which is made by

forcing a heavy plank with violence upon the ground, and may be heard

at a great distance.

But what is yet more surprising to a stranger, is the incredible loud

and terrifying roar, which they are capable of making, especially in

the spring season, their breeding time. It most resembles very heavy

distant thunder, not only shaking the air and waters, but causing the

earth to tremble; and when hundreds and thousands are roaring at the

same time, you can scarcely be persuaded, but that the whole globe is

violently and dangerously agitated.

An old champion, who is perhaps absolute sovereign of a little lake or

lagoon (when fifty less than himself are obliged to content themselves

with swelling and roaring in little coves round about) darts forth from

the reedy coverts all at once, on the surface of the waters, in a right

line; at first seemingly as rapid as lightning, but gradually more

slowly until he arrives at the centre of the lake, when he stops. He

now swells himself by drawing in wind and water through his mouth,

which causes a loud sonorous rattling in the throat for near a minute,

but it is immediately forced out again through his mouth and nostrils,

with a loud noise, brandishing his tail in the air, and the vapour

ascending from his nostrils like smoke. At other times, when swolen to

an extent ready to burst, his head and tail lifted up, he spins or

twirls round on the surface of the water. He acts his part like an

Indian chief when rehearsing his feats of war; and then retiring, the

exhibition is continued by others who dare to step forth, and strive to

excel each other, to gain the attention of the favourite female.

Having gratified my curiosity at this general breeding place and

nursery of crocodiles, I continued my voyage up the river without being

greatly disturbed by them. In my way I observed islets or floating

fields of the bright green Pistia, decorated with other amphibious

plants, as Senecio Jacobea, Persicaria amphibia, Coreopsis bidens,

Hydrocotyle fluitans, and many others of less note.

The swamps on the banks and island of the river are generally three or

four feet above the surface of the water, and very level; the timber

large and growing thinly, more so than what is observed to be in the

swamps below Lake George; the black rich earth is covered with

moderately tall, and very succulent tender grass, which when chewed is

sweet and agreeable to the taste, somewhat like young sugarcane: it is

a jointed decumbent grass, sending out radiculæ at the joints into the

earth, and so spreads itself, by creeping over its surface.

The large timber trees, which possess the low lands, are Acer rubrum,

Ac. negundo, Ac. glaucum, Ulmus sylvatica, Fraxinus excelsior, Frax.

aquatica, Ulmus suberifer, Gleditsia monosperma, Gledit. triacanthus,

Diospyros Virginica, Nyssa aquatica, Nyssa sylvatica, Juglans cinerea,

Quercus dentata, Quercus phillos, Hopea tinctoria, Corypha palma, Morus

rubra, and many more. The palm grows on the edges of the banks, where

they are raised higher than the adjacent level ground, by the

accumulation of sand, river-shells, &c. I passed along several miles by

those rich swamps: the channels of the river which encircle the several

fertile islands, I had passed, now uniting, formed one deep channel

near three hundred yards over. The banks of the river on each side

began to rise, and present shelly bluffs, adorned by beautiful Orange

groves, Laurels and Live Oaks. And now appeared in sight a tree that

claimed my whole attention: it was the Carica papaya, both male and

female, which were in flower; and the latter both in flower and fruit,

some of which were ripe, as large, and of the form of a pear, and of a

most charming appearance.

This admirable tree is certainly the most beautiful of any vegetable

production I know of; the towering Laurel Magnolia, and exalted Palm,

indeed exceed it in grandeur and magnificence, but not in elegance,

delicacy and gracefulness. It rises erect to the height of fifteen or

twenty feet, with a perfectly straight tapering stem, which is smooth

and polished, of a bright ash colour, resembling leaf silver, curiously

inscribed with the footsteps of the fallen leaves; and these vestiges

are placed in a very regular uniform imbricated order, which has a fine

effect, as if the little column were elegantly carved all over. Its

perfectly spherical top, is formed of very large lobe-sinuate leaves,

supported on very long footstalks; the lower leaves are the largest as

well as their petioles the longest, and make a graceful sweep or

flourish, like the long _ſ_, or the branches of a sconce candlestick.

The ripe and green fruit are placed round about the stem or trunk, from

the lowermost leaves, where the ripe fruit are, and upwards almost to

the top; the heart or inmost pithy part of the trunk is in a manner

hollow, or at best consists of very thin porous medullæ or membranes.

The tree very seldom branches or divides into limbs, I believe never

unless the top is by accident broke off when very young: I saw one

which had two tops or heads, the stem of which divided near the earth.

It is always green, ornamented at the same time with flowers and fruit,

which like figs come out singly from the trunk or stem.

After resting and refreshing myself in these delightful shades, I left

them with reluctance. Embarking again after the fervid heat of the

meridian sun were abated, for some time I passed by broken ridges of

shelly high land, covered with groves of Live Oak, Palm, Olea

Americana, and Orange trees; frequently observing floating islets and

green fields of the Pistia near the shores of the river and lagoons.

Here is in this river, and in the waters all over Florida, a very

curious and handsome birds, the people call them Snake Birds; I think I

have seen paintings of them on the Chinese screens and other India

pictures: they seeem to be a species of cormorant or loon (Colymbus

cauda elongata), but far more beautiful and delicately formed than any

other species that I have ever seen. The head and neck of this bird are

extremely small and slender, the latter very long indeed, almost out of

all proportion; the bill long, straight and slender, tapering from its

ball to a sharp point; all the upper side, the abdomen and thighs, are

as black and glossy as a raven’s, covered with feathers so firm and

elastic, that they in some degree resemble fish-scales; the breast and

upper part of the belly are covered with feathers of a cream colour;

the tail is very long, of a deep black, and tipped with a silvery

white, and when spread, represent an unfurled fan. They delight to sit

in little peaceable communities, on the dry limbs of trees, hanging

over the still waters, with their wings and tails expanded, I suppose

to cool and air themselves, when at the same time they behold their

images in the watery mirror. At such times, when we approach them, they

drop off the limbs into the water as if dead, and for a minute or two

are not to be seen; when on a sudden, at a vast distance, their long

slender head and neck only appear, and have very much the appearance of

a snake, and no other part of them are to be seen when swimming in the

water, except sometimes the tip end of their tail. In the heat of the

day they are seen in great numbers, sailing very high in the air, over

lakes and rivers.

I doubt not but if this bird had been an inhabitant of the Tiber in

Ovid’s days, it would have furnished him with a subject for some

beautiful and entertaining metamorphoses. I believe it feeds entirely

on fish, for its flesh smells and tastes intolerably strong of it; it

is scarcely to be eaten unless constrained by insufferable hunger.

I had now swamps and marshes on both sides of me; and evening coming on

apace, I began to look out for high land to encamp on; but the

extensive marshes seemed to have no bounds, and it was almost dark when

I found a tolerable suitable place, and at last was constrained to take

up with a narrow strip of high shelly bank, on the west side. Great

numbers of crocodiles were in sight on both shores. I ran my bark on

shore at a perpendicular bank four or five feet above the water, just

by the roots and under the spreading limbs of a great Live Oak: this

appeared to have been an ancient camping place by Indians and strolling

adventurers, from ash heaps and old rotten fire-brands and chunks,

scattered about on the surface of the ground; but was now evidently the

harbour and landing-place of some sovereign alligator: there led up

from it a deep beaten path or road, and was a convenient ascent.

I did not approve of my intended habitation from these circumstances;

and no sooner had I landed and moored my canoe to the roots of the

tree, than I saw a huge crocodile rising up from the bottom close by

me, who, when he perceived that I saw him, plunged down again under my

vessel. This determined me to be on my guard, and in time to provide

against a troublesome night. I took out of my boat every moveable,

which I carried upon the bank; then chose my lodging close to my canoe,

under the spreading Oak, as hereabouts only, the ground was open and

clear of high grass and bushes, and consequently I had some room to

stir and look round about. I then proceeded to collect firewood, which

I found difficult to procure. Here were standing a few Orange trees. As

for provisions, I had saved one or two barbecued trout, the remains of

my last evening’s collection, in tolerable good order, though the

sultry heats of the day had injured them; yet by stewing them up afresh

with the lively juice of Oranges, they served well enough for my

supper, as I had by this time but little relish or appetite for my

victuals; for constant watching at night against the attacks of

alligators, stinging of musquitoes and sultry heats of the day,

together with the fatigues of working my bark, had almost deprived me

of every desire but that of ending my troubles as speedy as possible. I

had the good fortune to collect together a sufficiency of dry sticks to

keep up a light and smoke, which I laid by me, and then spread my skins

and blankets upon the ground, kindled up a little fire, and supped

before it was quite dark. The evening was however extremely pleasant; a

brisk cool breeze sprang up, and the skies were perfectly serene, the

stars twinkling with uncommon briliancy. I stretched myself along

before my fire; having the river, my little harbour, and the stern of

my vessel in view; and now through fatigue and weariness I fell asleep.

But this happy temporary release from cares and troubles I enjoyed but

a few moments, when I was awakened and greatly surprised, by the

terrifying screams of Owls in the deep swamps around me; and what

increased my extreme misery was the difficulty of geting quite awake,

and yet hearing at the same time such screaming and shouting, which

increased and spread every way for miles around, in dreadful peals

vibrating through the dark extensive forests, meadows, and lakes. I

could not after this surprise recover the former peaceable state and

tranquillity of mind and repose, during the long night; and I believe

it was happy for me that I was awakened, for at that moment the

crocodile was dashing my canoe against roots roots of the tree,

endeavouring to get into her for the fish, which I however prevented.

Another time in the night I believe I narrowly escaped being dragged

into the river by him; for when again through excessive fatigue I had

fallen asleep, but was again awakened by the screaming owl, I found the

monster on the top of the bank, his head towards me, not above two

yards distant; when starting up and seizing my fusee well loaded, which

I always kept under my head in the night time, he drew back and plunged

into the water. After this, I roused up my fire, and kept a light

during the remaining part of the night, being determined not to be

caught napping so again: indeed the musquitoes alone would have been

abundantly sufficient to keep any creature awake that possessed their

perfect senses; but I was overcome and stupified with incessant

watching and labour. As soon as I discovered the first signs of

day-light, I arose, got all my effects and implements on board, and set

sail, proceeding upwards, hoping to give the musquitoes the slip, who

were now, by the cool morning dews and breezes, driven to their shelter

and hiding places. I was mistaken however in these conjectures, for

great numbers of them, which had concealed themselves in my boat, as

soon as the sun arose, began to revive, and sting me on my legs, which

obliged me to land in order to get bushes to beat them out of their

quarters.

It is very pleasing to observe the banks of the river, ornamented with

hanging garlands, composed of varieties of climbing vegetables, both

shrubs and plants, forming perpendicular green walls, with projecting

jambs, pilasters and deep apartments, twenty or thirty feet high, and

completely covered, with Glycine frutescens, Glyc. apios, Vitis

labrusca, Vitis vulpina, Rajana, Hedera quinquefolia, Hedera arborea,

Eupatorium scandens, Bignonia crucigera, and various species of

Convolvulus, particularly an amazing tall climber of this genus, or

perhaps an Ipomea. This has a very large white flower, as big as a

small funnel; its tube is five or six inches in length, and not thicker

than a pipe stem; the leaves are also very large, oblong and cordated,

sometimes dentated or angled, near the insertion of the foot-stalk;

they are of a thin texture, and of a deep green colour. It is

exceedingly curious to behold the Wild Squash[19] climbing over the

lofty limbs of the trees; its yellow fruit, somewhat of the size and

figure of a large orange, pendant from the extremities of the limbs

over the water.

Towards noon, the sultry heats being intolerable, I put into shore, at

a middling high bank, five or six feet above the surface of the river.

This low sandy testaceous ridge along the river side was but narrow;

the surface is light, black, and exceedingly fertile, producing very

large venerable Live Oaks, Palms, and grand Magnolias, scatteringly

planted by nature. There being no underwood to prevent the play of the

breezes from the river, afforded a desirable retreat from the sun’s

heat. Immediately at the back of this narrow ridge, were deep wet

swamps, where stood some astonishingly tall and spreading Cypress

trees. And now being weary and drowsy, I was induced to indulge and

listen to the dictates of reason and invitations to repose; which

consenting to, after securing my boat and reconnoitring the ground, I

spread my blanket under the Oaks near my boat, on which I extended

myself, where, falling to sleep, I instantaneously passed away the

sultry hours of noon. What a blissful tranquil repose! Undisturbed I

awoke, refreshed and strengthened; I cheerfully stepped on board again,

and continued to ascend the river. The afternoon being cool and

pleasant, and the trees very lofty on the higher western banks of the

river, by keeping near that shore I passed under agreeable shades the

remaining part of the day. During almost all this day’s voyage, the

banks of the river on both shores were middling high, perpendicular,

and washed by the brisk current: the shores were not lined with the

green lawns of floating aquatics, and consequently not very commodious

resorts or harbours for crocodiles; I therefore was not disturbed by

them, and saw but few, but those were very large. I however did not

like to lodge on those narrow ridges, invested by such dreary swamps;

and evening approaching, I began to be anxious for high land for a

camping place. It was quite dark before I came up to a bluff, which I

had in view a long time, over a very extensive point of meadows. I

landed however at last, in the best manner I could, at a magnificent

forest of Orange groves, Oaks, and Palms. I here, with little labour or

difficulty, soon collected a sufficient quantity of dry wood: there was

a pleasant vista of grass betwixt the grove and the edge of the river

bank, which afforded a very convenient, open, airy encamping place,

under the protection of some spreading Oaks.

This was a high perpendicular bluff, fronting more than one hundred

yards on the river, the earth black, loose, and fertile: it is a

composition of river-shells, sand, &c. At the back of it from the

river, were open Pine forests and savannas. I met with a circumstance

here, that, with some, may be reckoned worthy of mentioning, since it

regards the monuments of the ancients. As I have already observed, when

I landed it was quite dark; and in collecting wood for my fire,

stroling in the dark about the groves, I found the surface of the

ground very uneven, by means of little mounts and ridges. In the

morning I found I had taken up my lodging on the border of an ancient

burying-ground, containing sepulchres or tumuli of the Yamasees, who

were here slain by the Creeks in the last decisive battle, the Creeks

having driven them into this point, between the doubling of the river,

where few of them escaped the fury of the conquerors. These graves

occupied the whole grove, consisting of two or three acres of ground:

there were near thirty of these cemeteries of the dead, nearly of an

equal size and form, being oblong, twenty feet in length, ten or twelve

feet in width and three or four feet high, now overgrown with Orange

trees, Live Oaks, Laurel Magnolias, Red bays and other trees and

shrubs, composing dark and solemn shades.

I here, for the first time since I left the trading house, enjoyed a

night of peaceful repose. I arose greatly refreshed and in good

spirits, stepped on board my bark, and continued my voyage. After

doubling the point, I passed by swamps and meadows on each side of me.

The river here is something more contracted within perpendicular banks;

the land of an excellent quality, fertile, and producing prodigiously

large timber and luxuriant herbage.

The air continued sultry, and scarcely enough wind to flutter the

leaves on the trees. The eastern coast of the river now opens, and

presents to view ample plains, consisting of grassy marshes and green

meadows, and affords a prospect almost unlimited, and extremely

pleasing. The opposite shore exhibits a sublime contrast; a high bluff

bearing magnificent forests of grand magnolia, glorious palms, fruitful

Orange groves, Live Oaks, Bays and other trees. This grand elevation

continues four or five hundred yards, discribing a gentle curve on the

river, ornamented by a sublime grove of Palms, consisting of many

hundreds of trees together; they entirely shade the ground under them.

Above and below the bluff, the grounds gradually descend to the common

level swamps on the river: at the back of this eminence open to view

expansive green meadows or savannas, in which are to be seen glittering

ponds of water, surrounded at a great distance by high open Pine

forests and hommocks, and islets of Oaks and Bays projecting into the

savannas. After ranging about these solitary groves and peaceful

shades, I re-embarked and continued some miles up the river, between

elevated banks of the swamps or low lands, when on the east shore in a

capacious cove or winding of the river, were pleasing fields of Pistia,

and in the bottom of this cove opened to view a large creek or branch

of the river, which I knew to be the entrance to a beautiful lake, on

the banks of which was the farm I was going to visit, and which I

designed should be the last extent of my voyage up the river.

About noon the weather became extremely sultry, not a breath of wind

stirring, hazy or cloudy, with very heavy distant thunder, which was

answered by the crocodiles, sure presage of a storm!

Soon after ascending this branch of the river, on the right hand

presents itself to view a delightful little bluff, consisting chiefly

of shells, and covered with a dark grove of Red Cedar, Zanthoxylon and

Myrtle, I could not resist the temptation to stop here, although the

tremendous thunder all around the hemisphere alarmed me greatly, having

a large lake to cross. From this grove appears to view, an expansive

and pleasing prospect. The beauteous long lake in front, about North

East from me, its most distant east shores adorned with dark, high

forests of stately trees; North and South almost endless green plains

and meadows, embellished with islets and projecting promontories of

high, dark forests, where the pyramidal Magnolia grandiflora, Palma

elata and shady Oak conspicuously tower.

Being heretofore so closely invested, by high forests and deep swamps

of the great river, I was prevented from seeing the progress and

increase of the approaching tempest, the terrific appearance of which

now at once confounded me. How purple and fiery appeared the tumultuous

clouds, swiftly ascending or darting from the horizon upwards! they

seemed to oppose and dash against each other; the skies appeared

streaked with blood or purple flame overhead, the flaming lightning

streaming and darting about in every direction around, seemed to fill

the world with fire; whilst the heavy thunder kept the earth in a

constant tremor. I had yet some hopes of crossing the lake to the

plantation in sight. On the opposite shore of the creek before me, and

on the cape as we enter the lake, stood a large islet or grove of Oaks

and Palms. Here I intended to seek shelter, and abide till the fury of

the hurricane was overpast, if I found it too violent to permit me to

cross the lake. In consequence of this precipitate determination, I

stepped into my boat and pushed off. What a dreadful rushing and

roaring there was every where around me! and to my utter confusion and

astonishment, I could not find from what particular quarter its

strongest current or direction came, whereby I might have a proper

chance of taking measures of securing a harbour or running from it. The

high forests behind me bent to the blast; and the sturdy limbs of the

trees cracked. I had by this time got up a breast of the grove or

hommock: the hurricane close by, pursuing me, I found it dangerous and

imprudent in the highest degree to put in here, as the groves were

already torn up, and the spreading limbs of the ancient Live Oaks were

flying over my head, and carried about in the air as leaves and

stubble. I ran by and boldly entered the lake (being hurried in by a

strong current, which seemed a prodigy, the violent wind driving the

stream of the creek back again into the lake), and as soon as possible

took shelter under the high reedy bank of the lake, and made fast my

bark to the boughs of a low shrubby Hickory, that leaned over the

water. Such was the violence of the wind, that it raised the waters on

the opposite shores of the lake several feet perpendicular, and there

was a rapid flow of water from the creek into it, which was contrary to

its natural course. Such floods of rain fell during the space of half

or three quarters of an hour, that my boat was filled, and I expected

every moment when I should see her sink to the bottom of the lake; and

the violence of the wind kept the cable so constantly extended, that it

was beyond my ability to get to her. My box, which contained my books

of specimens and other collections, was floating about in her; and for

a great part of the time the rain came down with such rapidity, and

fell in such quantities, that every object was totally obscured,

excepting the continual streams or rivers of lightning, pouring from

the clouds. All seemed a frightful chaos. When the wind and rain

abated, I was overjoyed to see the face of nature again appear.

It took me an hour or more to clear the water out of my bark. I then

crossed the lake before a brisk and favourable breeze (it was about a

mile over), and landed safely at the plantation.

When I arrived, my friend was affrighted to see me, and immediately

enquired of me in what manner I came there; supposing it impossible

(until I had showed him my boat) that I could have arrived by water

through so tremendous a hurricane.

Indeed I saw plainly that they were greatly terrified, having suffered

almost irreparable damages from the violence of the storm. All the

buildings on the plantation, except his own dwelling-house, were laid

almost flat to the ground, or the logs and roof rent asunder and

twisted about; the mansion-house shook and reeled over their heads. He

had nearly one hundred acres of the Indigo plant almost ripe for the

first cutting, which was nearly ruined; and several acres of very

promising Sugar-cane, totally spoiled for the season. The great Live

Oaks which had been left standing about the fields, were torn to

pieces, their limbs lying scattered over the ground: and one very large

one which stood near his house torn down, which could not have been

done by the united strength of a thousand men. But what is incredible,

in the midst of this devastation and ruin, providentially no lives were

lost; although there were about sixty Negro slaves on the plantation,

and most of them in their huts when the storm came on, yet they escaped

with their lives, though several were badly wounded.

I continued here three days: indeed it took most of the time of my

abode with him, to dry my books and specimens of plants. But with

attention and care I saved the greatest number of them; though some

were naturally so delicate and fragile, that it was impossible to

recover them. Here is a vast body of land belonging to this estate; of

high ridges fit for the culture of Corn, Indigo, Cotton, Batatas, &c.

and of low swamps and marshes, which when properly drained and tilled,

would be suitable for Rice. These rich low grounds when drained and

ridged, are as productive as the natural high land, and vastly more

durable, especially for Sugar-cane, Corn and even Indigo; but this

branch of agriculture being more expensive, these rich lands are

neglected, and the upland only is under culture. The farm is situated

on the east shore of the beautiful Long Lake, which is above two miles

long, and near a mile broad. This lake communicates with the St. Juan,

by the little river which I ascended, which is about one mile and an

half in length, and thirty or forty yards wide. The river, as well as

the lake, abounds with fish and wild fowl of various kinds, and

incredible numbers, especially during the winter season, when the geese

and ducks arrive here from the North.

New Smyrna,[20] a pretty thriving town, is a colony of Creeks and

Minorquines, established by Mr. Turnbull, on the Mosquito river and

very near its mouth; it is about thirty miles over land from this farm.

My friend rode with me, about four miles distance from the house, to

show me a vast fountain of warm, or rather hot mineral water, which

issued from a high ridge or bank on the river, in a great cove or bay,

a few miles above the mouth of the creek which I ascended to the lake;

it boils up with great force, forming immediately a vast circular

bason, capacious enough for several shallops to ride in, and runs with

rapidity into the river three or four hundred yards distance. This

creek, which is formed instantly by this admirable fountain, is wide

and deep enough for a sloop to sail up into the bason. The water is

perfectly diaphanous, and here are continually a prodigious number and

variety of fish; they appear as plain as though lying on a table before

your eyes, although many feet deep in the water. This tepid water has a

most disagreeable taste, brassy and vitriolic, and very offensive to

the smell, much like bilge water, or the washings of a gun-barrel, and

is smelt at a great distance. A pale bluish or pearl coloured coagulum

covers every inanimate substance that lies in the water, as logs, limbs

of trees, &c. Alligators and gar were numerous in the bason, even at

the apertures where the ebullition emerges through the rocks; as also

many other tribes of fish. In the winter season several kinds of fish

and aquatic animals migrate to these warm fountains. The forbiding

taste and smell of these waters seems to be owing to vitriolic and

sulphureous fumes or vapours, and these being condensed, form this

coagulum, which represents flakes of pearly clouds in the clear

cerulean waters in the bason. A charming Orange grove, with Magnolias,

Oaks and Palms, half surrounded this vast fountain. A delightful stream

of cool salubrious water issues from the ridge, meandering along, and

entering the creek just below the bason. I returned in the evening, and

next day sat off again down the river.

My hospitable friend, after supplying me with necessaries, prevailed on

me to accept of the company and assistance of his purveyor, one day’s

voyage down the river, whom I was to set on shore at a certain bluff,

upwards of twenty miles below, but not above one third that distance by

land; he was to be out in the forests one day, on a hunt for turkeys.

The current of the river being here confined within its perpendicular

banks, ran briskly down: we cheerfully descended the grand river St.

Juan, enjoying enchanting prospects.

Before night we reached the destined port, at a spacious Orange grove.

Next morning we separated, and I proceeded down the river. The

prospects on either hand are now pleasing, and I view them at leisure,

and without toil or dread.

Induced by the beautiful appearance of the green meadows, which open to

the eastward, I determined not to pass this Elysium without a visit.

Behold the loud, sonorous, watchful savanna cranes (grus pratensis)

with musical clangor, in detached squadrons. They spread their light

elastic sail: at first they move from the earth heavy and slow; they

labour and beat the dense air; they form the line with wide extended

wings, tip to tip; they all rise and fall together as one bird; now

they mount aloft, gradually wheeling about, each squadron performs its

evolution, encircling the expansive plains, observing each one its own

orbit; then lowering sail, descend on the verge of some glittering

lake; whilst other squadrons, ascending aloft in spiral circles, bound

on interesting discoveries, wheel round and double the promontory, in

the silver regions of the clouded skies, where, far from the scope of

eye, they carefully observe the verdant meadows on the borders of the

East Lake; then contract their plumes and descend to the earth, where,

resting a while on some verdant eminence, near the flowery border of

the lake, they, with dignified, yet slow, respectful steps, approach

the kindred band, confer, and treat for habitation; the bounds an

precincts being settled, they confederate and take possession.

There is inhabiting the low shores and swamps of this river and the

lakes of Florida, as well as Georgia, a very curious bird[21], called

by an Indian name (Ephouskyca) which signifies in our language the

crying bird. I cannot determine what genus of European birds to join it

with. It is about the size of a large domestic hen: all the body, above

and beneath, is of a dark lead colour, every feather edged or tipped

with white, which makes the bird appear speckled on a near view; the

eye is large and placed high on the head, which is very prominent; the

bill or beak is five or six inches in length, arched or bent gradually

downwards, in that respect to be compared to one half of a bent bow, it

is large or thick near the base, compressed on each side, and flatted

at top and beneath, which makes it appear four square for more than

inch, where the nostrils are placed, from whence to their tips, both

mandibles are round, gradually lessening or tapering to their

extremities, which are thicker for about half an inch than immediately

above, by which the mandibles never fit quite close their whole length;

the upper mandible is a small matter longer than the under; the bill is

of a dusky green colour, more bright and yellowish about the base and

angles of the mouth; the tail is very short, and the middle feather the

longest; the others on each side shorten gradually, and are of the

colour of the rest of the bird, only somewhat darker; the two shortest

or outermost feathers are perfectly white, which the bird has a faculty

of flirting out on either side, as quick as a flash of lightning,

especially when he hears or sees any thing that disturbs him, uttering

at the same instant an extreme harsh and loud shriek; his neck is long

and slender, and his legs are also long and bare of feathers above the

knee, like those of the bittern, and are black or of a dark lead

colour.

There are two other species of this genus, which agree in almost every

particular with the above description, except in size and colour. The

first[22] of these I shall mention is a perfect white, except the prime

quill feathers, which are as black as those of a crow; the bill and

legs of a beautiful clear red, as also a space clear of feathers about

the eyes. The other species[23] is black on the upper side, the breast

and belly white, and the legs and beak as white as snow. Both these

species are about half the size of the crying bird. They fly in large

flocks or squadrons, evening and morning, to and from their feeding

place or roosts; both species are called Spanish curlews: these and the

crying bird feed chiefly on cray-fish, whose cells they probe, and with

their strong pinching bills drag them out: all the three species are

esteemed excellent food.

It is a pleasing sight at times of high winds and heavy thunder storms,

to observe the numerous squadrons of these Spanish curlews driving to

and fro, turning and tacking about, high up in the air, when by their

various evolutions in the different and opposite currents of the wind

high in the clouds, their silvery white plumage gleams and sparkles

like the brightest crystal, reflecting the sun-beams that dart upon

them between the dark clouds.

Since I have turned my observations upon the birds of this country, I

shall notice another very singular one, though already most curiously

and exactly figured by Catesby, which seems to be nearly allied to

those before mentioned; I mean the bird which he calls the wood

pelican.[24] This is a large bird, perhaps near three feet high when

standing erect. The bill is very long and strong, bending with a

moderate curve from the base to the tip; the upper mandible is the

largst, and receives the edges of the nether one into it its whole

length; the edges are very sharp and firm; the whole of a dark ash or

horn colour; the forehead round the base of the beak and sides of the

head is bare of feathers, and of a dark greenish colour, in which space

is placed the eyes, which are very large; the remainder of the head and

neck is of a nut brown colour; the back of a light bluish grey; upper

part of the wings, breast, and belly, almost white, with some slight

dashes of grey; the quill-feathers and tail, which are very short, are

of a dark slate colour, almost black; the legs, which are very long,

and bare of feathers a great length above the knees, are of a dark dull

greenish colour: it has a small bag or pouch under its throat: it feeds

on serpents, young alligators, frogs, and other reptiles.

This solitary bird does not associate in flocks, but is generally seen

alone; commonly near the banks of great rivers, in vast marshes or

meadows, especially such as are caused by inundations; and also in the

vast deserted rice plantations: he stands alone on the topmost limb of

tall dead Cypress trees, his neck contracted or drawn in upon his

shoulders, and beak resting like a long scythe upon his breast: in this

pensive posture and solitary situation, it looks extremely grave,

sorrowful and melancholy, as if in the deepest thought. They are never

seen on the salt sea coast, and yet are never found at a great distance

from it. I take this bird to be of a different genus from the tantalus,

and perhaps it approaches the nearest to the Egyptian ibis of any other

bird yet known.

There are two species of vultures[25] in these regions, I think not

mentioned in history: the first we shall describe is a beautiful bird,

near the size of a turkey buzzard[26], but his wings are much shorter,

and consequently he falls greatly below that admirable bird in sail. I

shall call this bird the painted vulture. The bill is long and straight

almost to the point, when it is hooked or bent suddenly down and sharp;

the head and neck bare of feathers nearly down to the stomach, when the

feathers begin to cover the skin, and soon become long and of a soft

texture, forming a ruff or tippet, in which the bird by contracting his

neck can hide that as well as his head; the bare skin on the neck

appears loose and wrinkled, and is of a deep bright yellow colour,

intermixed with coral red; the hinder part of the neck is nearly

covered with short, stiff hair; and the skin of this part of the neck

is of a dun-purple colour, gradually becoming red as it approaches the

yellow of the sides and fore part. The crown of the head is red; there

are lobed lappets of a reddish orange colour, which lie on the base of

the upper mandible. But what is singular, a large portion of the

stomach hangs down on the breast of the bird, in the likeness of a sack

or half wallet, and seems to be a duplicature of the craw, which is

naked and of a reddish flesh colour; this is partly concealed by the

feathers of the breast, unless when it is loaded with food (which is

commonly, I believe, roasted reptiles), and then it appears prominent.

The plumage of the bird is generally white or cream colour, except the

quill-feathers of the wings and two or three rows of the coverts, which

are of a beautiful dark brown; the tail, which is large and white, is

tipped with this dark brown or black; the legs and feet of a clear

white; the eye is encircled with a gold coloured iris; the pupil black.

The Creeks or Muscogulges construct their royal standard of the tail

feather of this bird, which is called by a name signifying the eagle’s

tail; this they carry with them when they go to battle, but then it is

painted with a zone of red within the brown tips; and in peaceable

negociations it is displayed new, clean, and white: this standard is

held most sacred by them on all occasions, and is constructed and

ornamented with great ingenuity. These birds seldom appear but when the

deserts are set on fire (which happens almost every day throughout the

year, in some part or other, by the Indians, for the purpose of rousing

the game, as also by the lightning:) when they are seen at a distance

soaring on the wing, gathering from every quarter, and gradually

approaching the burnt plains, where they alight upon the ground yet

smoking with hot embers: they gather up the roasted serpents, frogs,

and lizards; filling their sacks with them: at this time a person may

shoot them at pleasure, they not being willing to quit the feast, and

indeed seeming to brave all danger.

The other species may very properly be called the coped vulture, and is

by the inhabitants called the carrion crow. As to bulk or weight, he is

nearly equal to either of the others before-mentioned. His wings are

not long and sharp pointed, but broad and round at their extremities,

having a clumsy appearance; the tail is remarkably short, which he

spreads like a little fan, when on the wing. They have a heavy

laborious flight, flapping their wings, then sail a little and then

flap their wings again, and so on as if recovering themselves when

falling. The beak is very long and straight, until it makes a sudden

hook at the point, in the manner of the other vultures. The whole bird

is of a sable or mourning colour; the head and neck down to the breast

is bare of feathers, and the skin wrinkled; this unfeathered skin is of

a deep livid purple, appearing black and thinly set with short black

hair. He has a ruff or tippet of long soft feathers, like a collar

bearing on his breast, in which he can conceal his neck and head at

pleasure.

Having agreeably diverted away the intolerable heats of sultry noon in

fruitful fragrant groves, with renewed vigour I again resume my sylvan

pilgrimage. The afternoon and evening moderately warm, and exceeding

pleasant views from the river and its varied shores. I passed by Battle

lagoon and the bluff, without much opposition; but the crocodiles were

already assembling in the pass. Before night I came to, at a charming

Orange grove bluff, on the east side of the little lake, and after

fixing my camp on a high open situation, and collecting a plenty of dry

wood for fuel, I had time to get some fine trout for supper and

joyfully return to my camp.

What a most beautiful creature is this fish before me! gliding to and

fro, and figuring in the still clear waters, with his orient attendants

and associates: the yellow bream[27] or sun fish. It is about eight

inches in length, nearly of the shape of the trout, but rather larger

in proportion over the shoulders and breast; the mouth large, and the

branchiostega opens wide; the whole fish is of a pale gold (or

burnished brass) colour, darker on the back and upper sides; the scales

are of a proportionable size, regularly placed, and every where

variably powdered with red, russet, silver, blue, and green specks, so

laid on the scales as to appear like real dust or opaque bodies, each

apparent particle being so projected by light and shade, and the

various attitudes of the fish, as to deceive the sight; for in reality

nothing can be of a more plain and polished surface than the scales and

whole body of the fish. The fins are of an orange colour; and, like all

the species of the bream, the ultimate angle of the branchiostega

terminates by a little spatula, the extreme end of which represents a

crescent of the finest ultramarine blue, encircled with silver and

velvet black, like the eye in the feathers of a peacock’s train. He is

a fish of prodigious strength and activity in the water; a warrior in a

gilded coat of mail, and gives no rest or quarters to small fish, which

he preys upon. They are delicious food and in great abundance.

The Orange grove, is but narrow, betwixt the the river banks and

ancient Indian fields, where there are evident traces of the

habitations of the ancients, surrounded whith groves of Live Oak,

Laurel Magnolia, Zanthoxylon, Liquidambar, and others.

How harmonious and soothing is this native sylvan music now at still

evening! inexpressibly tender are the responsive cooings of the

innocent dove, in the fragrant Zanthoxylon groves, and the variable and

tuneful warblings of the nonpareil, with the more sprightly and

elevated strains of the blue linnet and golden icterus: this is indeed

harmony, even amidst the incessant croaking of the frogs: the shades of

silent night are made more cheerful, with the shrill voice of the

whip-poor-will[28] and active mock-bird.

My situation high and airy: a brisk and cool breeze steadily and

incessantly passing over the clear waters of the lake, and fluttering

over me through the srrounding groves, wings its way to the moon-light

savannas, while I repose on my sweet and healthy couch of the soft

Tillandsia usnea-adscites, and the latter gloomy and still hours of

night pass rapidly away as it were in a moment; I arose, strengthened

and cheerful, in the morning. Having some repairs to make in the tackle

of my vessel, I paid my first attention to them; which being

accomplished, my curiosity prompted me to penetrate the grove and view

the illumined plains.

[Illustration: Ixia Cœlestina]

What a beautiful display of vegetation is here before me! seemingly

unlimited in extent and variety; how the dew-drops twinkle and play

upon the sight, trembling on the tips of the lucid, green savanna,

sparkling as the gem that flames on the turban of the eastern prince.

See the pearly tears rolling off the buds of the expanding

Granadilla[29]; behold the azure fields of cerulean Ixia! what can

equal the rich golden flowers of the Canna lutea, which ornament the

banks of yon serpentine rivulet, meandering over the meadows; the

almost endless varieties of the gay Phlox, that enamel the swelling

green banks, associated with the purple Verbena corymbosa, Viola,

pearly Gnaphalium, and silvery Perdicium? How fantastical looks the

libertine Clitoria, mantling the shrubs, on the vistas skirting the

groves! My morning excursion finished, I returned to my camp,

breakfasted, then went on board my boat, and gently descended the noble

river, and passed by several openings of extensive plains and meadows,

environing the East Lake, charming beyond compare. At evening I came to

at a good harbour, under the high banks of the river, and rested during

the night amidst the fragrant groves, exposed to the constant breezes

from the river: here I made ample collections of specimens and growing

roots of curious vegetables, which kept me fully employed the greatest

part of the day; and in the evening arrived at a charming spot on the

East bank, which I had marked on my ascent up the river, where I made

some addition to my collections; and the next day I employed myself in

the same manner, putting into shore frequently, at convenient places,

which I had noticed; and in the evening arrived again at the upper

store, where I had the pleasure of finding my old friend, the trader,

in good health and cheerful, and his affairs in prosperous way. There

were also a small party of Indians here, who had lately arrived with

their hunts to purchase goods. I continued a few days at this post,

searching its environs for curious vegetable productions, collecting

seeds and planting growing roots in boxes, to be transported to the

lower trading house.

Now, having procured necessaries to accommodate me on my voyage down to

the lower store, I bid adieu to my old friend and benefactor, Mr. Job

Wiggens, embarked alone on board my little fortunate vessel, and set

sail. I chose to follow the easternmost channel of the river to the

Great Lake, because it ran by high banks and bluffs of the eastern main

the greatest part of the distance, which afforded me an opportunity of

observing a far greater variety of natural subjects, than if I had

taken the western or middle channel, which flowed through swamps and

marshes.

At evening I arrived at Cedar Point, my former safe and pleasant

harbour, at the east cape of the Great Lake, where I had noticed some

curious shrubs and plants; here I rested, and on the smooth and gentle

current launch again into the little ocean of Lake George, meaning now,

on my return, to coast his western shores in search of new beauties in

the bounteous kingdom of Flora.

I was however induced to deviate a little from my intended course, and

touch at the inchanting little Isle of Palms. This delightful spot,

planted by nature, is almost an entire grove of Palms, with a few

pyramidal Magnolias, Live Oaks, golden Orange, and the animating

Zanthoxylon. What a beautiful retreat is here! blessed unviolated spot

of earth, rising from the limpid waters of the lake: its fragrant

groves and blooming lawns invested and protected by encircling ranks of

the Yucca gloriosa. A fascinating atmosphere surrounds this blissful

garden; the balmy Lantana, ambrosial Citra, perfumed Crinum, perspiring

their mingled odours, wafted through Zanthoxylon groves. I at last

broke away from the enchanting spot, and stepped on board my boat,

hoisted sail, and soon approached the coast of the main, at the cool

eve of day: then traversing a capacious semicircular cove of the lake,

verged by low, extensive grassy meadows, I at length by dusk made a

safe harbour, in a little lagoon, on the sea shore or strand of a bold

sandy point, which descended from the surf of the lake. This was a

clean sandy beach, hard and firm by the beating surf, when the wind

sets from the east coast. I drew up my light vessel on the sloping

shore, that she might be safe from the beating waves in case of a

sudden storm of wind in the night. A few yards back the land was a

little elevated, and overgrown with thickets of shrubs and low trees,

consisting chiefly of Zanthoxylon, Olea Americana, Rhamnus frangula,

Sideroxylon, Morus, Ptelea, Halesia, Querci, Myrica cerifera and

others. These groves were but low, yet sufficiently high to shelter me

from the chilling dews; and being but a few yards distance from my

vessel, here I fixed my encampment. A brisk wind arising from the lake,

drove away the clouds of mosquitoes into the thickets. I now, with

difficulty and industry, collected a sufficiency of dry wood to keep up

a light during the night, and to roast some trout which I had caught

when descending the river: their heads I stewed in the juice of

Oranges, which, with boiled rice, afforded me a wholesome and delicious

supper: I hung the remainder of my broiled fish on the snags of some

shrubs over my head. I at last, after reconnoitring my habitation,

returned, spread abroad my skins and blanket upon the clean sands by my

fire-side, and betook myself to repose.

How glorious the powerful sun, minister of the Most High, in the rule

and government of this earth, leaves our hemisphere, retiring from our

sight beyond the western forests! I behold with gratitude his departing

smiles, tinging the fleecy roseate clouds, now riding far away on the

eastern horizon; behold they vanish from sight in the azure skies!

All now silent and peaceable, I suddenly fell asleep. At midnight I

awake; when raising my head effect, I find myself alone in the

wilderness of Florida, on the shores of Lake George. Alone indeed, but

under the care of the Almighty, and protected by the invisible hand of

my guardian angel.

When quite awake, I started at the heavy tread of some animal, the dry

limbs of trees upon the ground crack under his feet; the close shrubby

thickets part and bend under him as he rushes off.

I rekindled up my sleepy fire; lay in contact the exfoliated smoking

brands damp with the dew of heaven.

The bright flame ascends and illuminates the ground and groves around

me.

When looking up, I found my fish carried off, though I had thought them

safe on the shrubs, just over my head; but their scent, carried to a

great distance by the damp noctournal breezes, I suppose were too

powerful attractions to resist.

Perhaps it may not be time lost, to rest a while here, and reflect on

the unexpected and unaccountable incident, which however pointed out to

me an extraordinary deliverance or protection of my life, from the

rapacious wolf that stole my fish from over my head.

How much easier and more eligible might it have been for him to have

leaped upon my breast in the dead of sleep, and torn my throat, which

would have instantly deprived me of life, and then glutted his stomach

for the present with my warm blood, and dragged off my body, which

would have made a feast afterwards for him and his howling associates!

I say would not this have been a wiser step, than to have made

protracted and circular approaches, and then after, by chance, espying

the fish over my head, with the greatest caution and silence rear up,

and take them off the snags one by one, then make off with them, and

that so cunningly as not to awaken me until he had fairly accomplished

his purpose?

The morning being clear, I sat sail with a favourable breeze, coasting

along the shores; when on a sudden the waters became transparent, and

discovered the sandy bottom, and the several nations of fish, passing

and repassing each other. Following this course I was led to the cape

of the little river, descending from Six Mile Springs, and meanders six

miles from its source through green meadows. I entered this pellucid

stream, sailing over the heads of innumerable squadrons of fish, which,

although many feet deep in the water, were distinctly to be seen. I

passed by charming islets of flourishing trees, as Palm, Red Bay, Ash,

Maple, Nyssa, and others. As I approached the distant high forest on

the main, the river widened, floating fields of the green Pistia

surrounded me, the rapid stream winding through them. What an alluring

scene was now before me! A vast bason or little lake of crystal waters,

half encircled by swelling hills, clad with Orange and odoriferous

Illicium groves. The towering Magnolia, itself a grove, and the exalted

Palm, as if conscious of their transcendent glories, tossed about their

lofty heads, painting, with mutable shades, the green floating fields

beneath. The social pratling coot enrobed in blue, and the squeeling

water-hen, with wings half expanded, tripped after each other, over the

watery mirror.

I put in at an ancient landing place, which is a sloping ascent to a

level grassy plain, an old Indian field. As I intended to make my most

considerable collections at this place, I proceeded immediately to fix

my encampment but a few yards from my safe harbour, where I securely

fastened my boat to a Live Oak, which overshadowed my port.

After collecting a good quantity of fire-wood, as it was about the

middle of the afternoon, I resolved to reconnoitre the ground about my

encampment. Having penetrated the groves next to me, I came to the open

forests, consisting of exceedingly tall straight Pines (Pinus

Palustris) that stood at a considerable distance from each other,

through which appeared at N. W. an almost unlimited plain of grassy

savannas, embellished with a chain of shallow ponds, as far as the

sight could reach. Here is a species of Magnolia that associates with

the Gordonia lasianthus; it is a tall tree, sixty or eighty feet in

heighth; the trunk straight; its head terminating in the form of a

sharp cone; the leaves are oblong, lanceolate, of a fine deep green,

and glaucous beneath; the flowers are large, perfectly white and

extremely fragrant: with respect to its flowers and leaves, it differs

very little from the Magnolia glauca. The silvery whiteness of the

leaves of this tree, had a striking and pleasing effect on the sight,

as it stood amidst the dark green of the Quercus dentata, Nyssa

sylvatica, Nys. aquatica, Gordonia lasianthus, and many others of the

same hue. The tall aspiring Gordonia lasianthus, which now stood in my

view in all its splendour, is every way deserving of our admiration.

Its thick foliage, of a dark green colour, is flowered over with large

milk-white fragrant blossoms, on long slender elastic peduncles, at the

extremities of its numerous branches, from the bosom of the leaves, and

renewed every morning; and that in such incredible profusion, that the

tree appears silvered over with them, and the ground beneath covered

with the fallen flowers. It at the same time continually pushes forth

new twigs, with young buds on them, and in the winter and spring the

third year’s leaves, now partly concealed by the new and perfect ones,

are gradually changing colour, from green to golden yellow, from that

to a scarlet, from scarlet to crimson; and lastly to a brownish purple,

and then fall to the ground. So that the Gordonia lasianthus may be

said to change and renew its garments every morning throughout the

year; and every day appears with unfading lustre. And moreover, after

the general flowering is past, there is a thin succession of scattering

blossoms to be seen, on some parts of the tree, almost every day

throughout the remaining months, until the floral season returns again.

Its natural situation, when growing, is on the edges of shallow ponds,

or low wet grounds on rivers, in a sandy soil, the nearest to the water

of any other tree, so that in droughty seasons its long serpentine

roots which run near or upon the surface of the earth, may reach into

the water. When the tree has arrived to the period of perfect

magnitude, it is sixty, eighty, or an hundred feet high, forming a

pyramidal head. The wood of old trees when sawn into plank is

deservedly admired in cabinet-work or furniture; it has a cinnamon

coloured ground, marbled and veined with many colours: the inner bark

is used for dying a reddish or sorrel colour; it imparts this colour to

wool, cotton, linnen, and dressed deer-skins, and is highly esteemed by

tanners.

The Zamia pumila, the Erythryna corallodendrum and the Cactus opuntia

grow here in great abundance and perfection. The first grows in the

open pine forests, in tufts or clumps, a large conical strobile

disclosing its large coral red fruit, which appears singularly

beautiful amidst the deep green fern-like pinnated leaves.

The Erythryna corallodendrum is six or eight feet high, its prickly

limbs stride and wreathe about with singular freedom, and its spikes of

crimson flowers have a fine effect amidst the delicate foliage.

The Cactus opuntia is very tall, erect, and large, and strong enough to

bear the weight of a man: some are seven or eight feet high: the whole

plant or tree seems to be formed of great oval compressed leaves or

articulations; those near the earth continually increase, magnify and

indurate as the tree advances in years, and at length lose the bright

green colour and glossy surface of their youth, acquiring a ligneous

quality, with a whitish scabrous cortex. Every part of the plant is

nearly destitute of aculea, or those fascicles of barbed bristles which

are in such plenty on the common dwarf Indian Fig. The cochineal insect

were feeding on the leaves. The female of this insect is very large and

fleshy, covered with a fine white silk or cottony web, which feels

always moist or dewy, and seems designed by nature to protect them from

the violent heat of the sun. The males are very small in comparison to

the females, and but very few in number: they each have two oblong

pellucid wings. The large polypetalus flowers are produced on the edges

of the last year’s leaves, are of a fine splendid yellow, and are

succeeded by very large pear-shaped fruit, of a dark livid purple when

ripe: its pulp is charged with a juice of a fine transparent crimson

colour, and has a cool pleasant taste, somewhat like that of a

pomegranate. Soon after eating this fruit the urine becomes of the same

crimson colour, which very much surprises and affrights a stranger, but

is attended with no other ill consequence; on the contrary, it is

esteemed wholesome, though powerfully diuretic.

On the left hand of those open forests and savannas, as we turn our

eyes southward, south-west and west, we behold an endless wild desert,

the upper stratum of the earth of which is a fine white sand, with

small pebbles, and at some distance appears entirely covered with low

trees and shrubs of various kinds, and of equal heighth, as dwarf Sweet

Bay, (Laurus Borbonia) Olea Americana, Morus rubra, Myrica cerifera,

Ptelea, Æsculus pavia, Quercus Ilex, Q. glandifer, Q. maritima, foliis

cuneiformibus obsolete trilobis minoribus, Q. pumila, Rhamnus frangula,

Halesia diptera, & Tetraptera, Cassine, Ilex aquifolium, Callicarpa

Johnsonia, Erythryna corallodendrum, Hibiscus spinifex, Zanthoxylon,

Hopea tinctoria, Sideroxylum, with a multitude of other shrubs, many of

which were new to me, and some of them admirably beautiful and

singular. One of them particularly engaged my notice, which, from its

fructification I took to be a species of Cacalia. It is an evergreen

shrub, about six or eight feet high; the leaves are generally somewhat

cuneiform, fleshy, and of a pale whitish green, both surfaces being

covered with a hoary pubescence and vesiculæ, that when pressed feels

clammy, and emits an agreeable scent; the ascendent branches terminate

with large tufts or corymbes of rose coloured flowers, of the same

agreeable scent; these cluster of flowers, at a distance, look like a

large Carnation or fringed Poppy flower, (Syngenesia Polyg. Æqul.

Linn.), Cacalia heterophylla, foliis cuneiformibus, carnosis, papil.

viscidis.

Here is also another species of the same genus, but it does not grow

quite so large; the leaves are smaller, of a yet duller green colour,

and the flowers are of a pale rose; they are both valuable evergreens.

The trees and shrubs which cover these extensive wilds are about five

or six feet high, and seem to be kept down by the annual firing of the

deserts, rather than the barrenness of the soil, as I saw a few large

Live Oaks, Mulberry trees and Hickories, which evidently have withstood

the devouring flames. These adjoining wild plains, forests, and

savannas, are situated lower than the hilly groves on the banks of the

lake and river; but what should be the natural cause of it I cannot

even pretend to conjecture, unless one may suppose that those high

hills, which we call bluffs, on the banks of this great river and its

lakes, and which support those magnificent groves and high forests, and

are generally composed of shell and sand, were thrown up to their

present heighth by the winds and waves, when the bed of the river was

nearer the level of the present surface of the earth; but then, to rest

upon such a supposition, would be admitting that the waters were

heretofore in greater quantities than at this time, or that their

present channels and receptacles are worn deeper into the earth.

I now directed my steps towards my encampment, in a different

direction. I seated myself upon a swelling green knoll, at the head of

the crystal bason. Near me, on the left, was a point or projection of

an entire grove of the aromatic Illicium Floridanum; on my right, and

all around behind me, was a fruitful Orange grove, with Palms and

Magnolias interspersed; in front, just under my feet, was the

inchanting and amazing crystal fountain, which incessantly threw up,

from dark, rocky caverns below, tons of water every minute, forming a

bason, capacious enough for large shallops to ride in, and a creek of

four or five feet depth of water, and near twenty yards over, which

meanders six miles through green meadows, pouring its limpid waters

into the great Lake George, where they seem to remain pure and unmixed.

About twenty yards from the upper edge of the bason, and directly

opposite to the mouth or outlet to the creek, is a continual and

amazing ebullition, where the waters are thrown up in such abundance

and amazing force, as to jet and swell up two or three feet above the

common surface: white sand and small particles of shells are thrown up

with the waters, near to the top, when they diverge from the centre,

subside with the expanding flood, and gently sink again, forming a

large rim or funnel round about the aperture or mouth of the fountain,

which is a vast perforation through a bed of rocks, the ragged points

of which are projected out on every side. Thus far I know to be matter

of real fact, and I have related it as near as I could conceive or

express myself. But there are yet remaining scenes inexpressibly

admirable and pleasing.

Behold, for instance, a vast circular expanse before you, the waters of

which are so extremely clear as to be absolutely diaphanous or

transparent as the ether; the margin of the bason ornamented with a

great variety of fruitful and floriferous trees, shrubs, and plants,

the pendant golden Orange dancing on the surface of the pellucid

waters, the balmy air vibrates the melody of the merry birds, tenants

of the encircling aromatic grove.

At the same instant innumerable bands of fish are seen, some clothed in

the most brilliant colours; the voracious crocodile stretched along at

full length, as the great trunk of a tree in size; the devouring

garfish, inimical trout, and all the varieties of gilded painted bream,

the barbed catfish, dreaded sting-ray, skate, and flounder, spotted

bass, sheeps head and ominous drum; all in their separate bands and

communities, with free and unsuspicious intercourse performing their

evolutions: there are no signs of enmity, no attempt to devour each

other; the different bands seem peaceably and complaisantly to move a

little aside, as it were to make room for others to pass by.

But behold yet something far more admirable, see whole armies

descending into an abyss, into the mouth of the bubbling fountain: they

disappear! are they gone for ever? is it real? I raise my eyes with

terror and astonishment; I look down again to the fountain with

anxiety, when behold them as it were emerging from the blue ether of

another world, apparently at a vast distance, at their first

appearance, no bigger than flies or minnows; now gradually enlarging,

their brilliant colours begin to paint the fluid.

Now they come forward rapidly, and instantly emerge, with the elastic

expanding column of crystalline waters, into the circular bason or

funnel: see now how gently they rise, some upright, others obliquely,

or seem to lie as it were on their sides, suffering themselves to be

gently lifted or born up by the expanding fluid towards the surface,

sailing or floating like butterflies in the cerulean ether: then again

they as gently descend, diverge and move off; when they rally, form

again, and rejoin their kindred tribes.

This amazing and delightful scene, though real, appears at first but as

a piece of excellent painting; there seems no medium; you imagine the

picture to be within a few inches of your eyes, and that you may

without the least difficulty touch any one of the fish, or put your

finger upon the crocodile’s eye, when it really is twenty or thirty

feet under water.

And although this paradise of fish may seem to exhibit a just

representation of the peaceable and happy state of nature which existed

before the fall, yet in reality it is a mere representation; for the

nature of the fish is the same as if they were in Lake George or the

river; but here the water or element in which they live and move, is so

perfectly clear and transparent, it places them all on an equality with

regard to their ability to injure or escape from one another; (as all

river fish of prey, or such as feed upon each other, as well as the

unwieldy crocodile, take their prey by surprise; secreting themselves

under covert or in ambush, until an opportunity offers, when they rush

suddenly upon them:) but here is no covert, no ambush; here the trout

freely passes by the very nose of the alligator, and laughs in his

face, and the bream by the trout.

But what is really surprising, that the consciousness of each other’s

safety or some other latent cause, should so absolutely alter their

conduct, for here is not the least attempt made to injure or disturb

one another.

The sun passing below the horizon, and night approaching, I arose from

my seat, and proceeding on arrived at my camp, kindled my fire, supped

and reposed peaceably. Rising early, I employed the fore part of the

day in collecting specimens of growing roots and seeds. In the

afternoon, I left these Elysian springs and the aromatic groves, and

briskly descend the pellucid little river, re-entering the great lake.

The wind being gentle and fair for Mount Royal, I hoisted sail, and

successfully crossing the N. west bay, about nine miles, came to at

Rocky Point, the west cape or promontory, as we enter the river

descending towards Mount Royal: these rocks are horizontal slabs or

flat masses, rising out of the lake two or three feet above its

surface, and seem an aggregate composition or concrete of sand, shells

and calcareous cement, of a dark grey or dusky colour. The stones are

hard and firm enough for buildings, and serve very well for light hand

mill-stones; and when calcined afford a coarse lime: they lie in vast

horizontal masses upon one another, from one to two or three feet in

thickness, and are easily separated and broken to any size or form, for

the purpose of building. Rocky Point is an airy, cool, and delightful

situation, commanding a most ample and pleasing prospect of the lake

and its environs; but here being no wood, I re-embarked and sailed down

a little farther to the island in the bay, where I went on shore at a

magnificent grove of Magnolias and Oranges, desirous of augmenting my

collections. I arose early next morning, and after ranging the groves

and savannas, returned, embarked again, and descending, called at Mount

Royal, where I enlarged my collections; and bidding adieu to the

gentleman and lady who resided there, and who treated me with great

hospitality on my ascent up the river; arrived in the evening at the

lower trading house.

[19] Cucurbita peregrina.

[20] New-Smyrna is built on a high shelly bluff, on the west bank of

the South branch of Mosquito river, about ten miles above the capes of

that river, which is about thirty miles North of Cape Canaveral, Lat

28. I was there about ten years ago, when the surveyor run the lines

or precincts of the colony, where there was neither habitation nor

cleared field. It was then a famous Orange grove, the upper or South

promontory of a ridge, nearly half a mile wide, and stretching North

about forty miles, to the head of the North branch of the Musquito, to

where the Tomoko river unites with it, nearly parallel to the sea

coast, and not above two miles across to the sea beach. All this ridge

was then one entire Orange grove, with Live Oaks, Mangolias, Palms,

Red Bays and others: I observed then, near where New Smyrna now

stands, a spacious Indian mount and avenue, which stood near the banks

of the river: the avenue ran on a straight line back, through the

groves, across the ridge, and terminated at the verge of natural

savannas and ponds.

[21] Tantalus pictus.

[22] Tantalus albus. Numinus albus Cat.

[23] Tantalus versicolor. Numinus fuscus. Cat.

[24] Tantalus loculator. Linn.

[25] Vultur sacra.

[26] Vultur aura.

[27] Cyprinus coronarius.

[28] Caprimulgus rufus, called chuck-will’s-widow, from a fancied

resemblance of his notes to these words: it inhabits the maritime

parts of Carolina and Florida, and is more than twice the size of the

night hawk or whip-poor-will.

[29] Passiflora incarnata, called May-Apple.