=1238. Petites Bouchées à la Mrs. Astor.=--Butter and flour a

baking-sheet. Put into a pastry-bag (No. 1079) half the quantity of the

biscuits-à-la-cuillère preparation (No. 1231), and drop it on the

baking-sheet into Lima-bean-shaped pieces one and a half inches long by

half an inch wide. Sprinkle them lightly with powdered sugar, and place

them in a brisk oven to bake for twelve minutes. Take them out and let

them cool for fifteen minutes, then put them on a table upside down, and

in the middle of each one cut a hole one inch long by a quarter of an

inch wide. Fill the holes with apricot marmalade (No. 1335), then unite

them, two by two, so as to enclose the marmalade and be the perfect

shape of Lima beans. Glaze them neatly by dipping them separately into

a glace preparation as for éclairs à la vanille (No. 1245), and lay them

at once on a pastry-grate to dry for fifteen minutes. Dress them on a

dessert-dish with a folded napkin, and serve. The remainder of the paste

may be used the following day.

=1239. Fancy Almond Cakes.=--Peel and pound half a pound of almonds as

for No. 1207; then add two egg whites; when thoroughly pounded, put them

into a vessel with ten ounces of powdered sugar, and the grated rind of

a good lemon; then, with the hand, knead well together for twenty

minutes. Slide a fancy tube (No. 3) into a pastry-bag (No. 1079), and

pour in the above preparation. Cover a baking-sheet with brown paper,

and holding the top of the bag with the right hand, guide the bottom

with the left, and press the paste through onto the paper in small round

bits one inch wide and half an inch high. Make ten of these, being

careful to keep them one inch apart. Make ten more, shaped like the

letter S, using the same quantity as for the others; then ten more,

crescent-shaped, or like the letter C; and with the remainder of the

paste make ten more, heart-shaped, being careful to keep them from

touching one another. Take five candied cherries, cut them in halves,

and arrange them on top of the round cakes; have twenty dried currants

(No. 1080), and place one on each end of the S. Cut a candied apricot in

two, and each half into five slices, and lay them on top of the

crescents, and lastly have one ounce of candied angelica cut into very

thin strips, and arrange them nicely on the heart-shaped pieces.

It would be advisable to prepare these cakes the evening before they are

needed, and lay them aside in a warm place over night. The next morning,

glaze them lightly with beaten egg, using a pastry-brush, and place them

in a brisk oven to bake for ten minutes. When of a nice brown color,

remove, and let them become thoroughly cold. Lift them up carefully with

the paper, laying them gently upside down on a table, and with a wet

towel moisten the paper, so that the cakes will detach easily. Turn the

paper over immediately as it stood before, let rest for two minutes;

then remove the cakes. Lay them on a pastry-grate upside down, to allow

them to dry for thirty minutes. Dress them on a glass stand with a

folded napkin, and send to the table.

=1240. Pâte-à-Chou.=--Put into a saucepan two gills of cold milk and two

ounces of butter. Place it on the range, stir slightly with the spatula,

and when boiling, immediately add a quarter of a pound of well-sifted

flour; stir briskly for two minutes. Then stand the pan on a table.

Break in one egg; mix sharply for two minutes, break in a second egg,

mix sharply again; and repeat with a third and a fourth egg; then the

pâte-à-chou is ready.

=1241. Eclairs.=--Arrange in a pastry-bag (No. 1079), a tube (No. 3);

put into it the above quantity of pâte-à-chou (No. 1240), and press out

upon a baking-sheet fifteen éclairs, each one three inches long. Bake

them in a hot oven for twenty minutes. Remove, and let them cool; then

with a pair of scissors open each éclair on one side, and with a spoon

fill the interiors with a crême patissière (No. 1242).

=1242. Crême Patissière.=--Put a pint of cold milk into a saucepan, and

place it on the stove. Mix in another vessel two ounces of powdered

sugar, with one ounce of flour, and half an ounce of corn-starch. Break

in two whole eggs, and beat well together with the whip for two minutes.

When the milk is boiling, add it to the preparation, and after stirring

for one minute longer, put it into another saucepan, and place it on the

stove. Beat well until it comes to a boil; then remove from the fire,

and add immediately a teaspoonful of vanilla essence. Mix thoroughly

again for one minute longer; then pour it into a bowl, and let it get

cold.

=1243. How to Glaze Eclairs with Chocolate.=--Put in a saucepan one

pound and three quarters of granulated sugar and a gill of cold water.

Place on the stove, and with a spatula mix well until the sugar is

thoroughly melted, and when boiling remove from the stove, and pour it

gradually on a marble slab, on which it will spread about three feet

square. Let it cool off for ten minutes. Then cut two ounces of cocoa

into small pieces; put them on a plate, and leave them at the oven door

to melt. With a spatula begin working the sugar that is on the marble as

rapidly as possible in every direction until it begins to whiten; then

add the melted cocoa, mixing it thoroughly again until it becomes hard;

remove the spatula, and detach the preparation quickly from the marble

with a knife. Put it into a vessel, and covering it with a damp cloth,

let it rest for thirty minutes. Then place half of it in a saucepan on

the hot stove, and with the spatula mix thoroughly and slowly until it

is lukewarm, meanwhile adding a teaspoonful of cold water. Take the

éclairs, one by one, and with the hand dip them into this preparation.

Lay them on a pastry-grate; let them cool off for five minutes; dress on

a dessert-dish with a folded napkin, and serve.

Keep the rest of the preparation for further use. When laid aside in a

cool place, and properly taken care of, it will be as good in two weeks’

time as when freshly made.

=1244. Eclairs au Café.=--Have a pâte-à-chou ready, as for No. 1240;

then proceed to make the éclairs. Bake, and fill them with a crême

patissière (No. 1242) exactly as for the chocolate éclairs; glazing them

the same as for No. 1243, only instead of cocoa use half a gill of

coffee essence (No. 1263). Serve precisely the same.

=1245. Eclairs à la Vanille.=--Prepare a pâte-à-chou as for No. 1240.

Make the éclairs, bake, and fill them with a crême patissière, as No.

1242. Glaze them as for No. 1243, only substituting two teaspoonfuls of

vanilla essence for the cocoa, and serving them the same.

=1246. Choux à la Crême.=--Prepare a pâte-à-chou as for No. 1240, and

put it into the bag. Press it down onto a baking-sheet into six round,

equal cakes, about two inches high. Glaze the surface of each with

beaten egg. Bake in a moderate oven for thirty minutes. Watch them

carefully, and when they are of a good golden color, remove from the

oven and let cool for half an hour. Make an incision on one side, about

half-way in the cakes, using a pair of scissors. Fill the insides with

crême patissière (No. 1242), and close them again. Dredge well with

powdered sugar, and dress on a dessert-dish, with a folded napkin,

before sending to the table.

=1247. Méringues.=--Put six egg whites into a copper basin, with a light

half saltspoonful of salt, and with a wire whip begin beating slowly,

but gradually increase until a stiff froth is obtained. Should it become

grainy, beat briskly again, adding half an ounce of powdered sugar.

(Eight minutes should suffice to have a proper froth.) Remove the whip.

Have on a plate one pound of powdered sugar, and with a spatula drop the

sugar slowly and carefully over the froth, mixing it in meanwhile with

the spatula. This should take about two minutes. Flavor it with any

desired flavoring, and it will be ready for use.

=1248. Apples, Méringuées.=--Have six fine apples cooked as for No.

1169; dress them on a dessert-dish, filling the cavities with currant

jelly (No. 1326); then decorate all round and the tops with méringue,

prepared as for No. 1247, half the quantity being sufficient. Sprinkle

them moderately with powdered sugar; lay the dish on a baking-pan, and

put it in the oven for five minutes. When a light brown color, remove,

and serve either hot or cold.

=1249. Small Fancy Méringues à la Ch. C. Delmonico.=--Put into a

sugar-pan one pound of granulated sugar with half a pint of cold water,

and place on the hot stove. Have two quarts of ice-water in a vessel,

and when the sugar comes to a boil, dip the fingers of the right hand

into the ice-water and pass them quickly around the inside of the pan,

and let boil for five minutes. Dip a wooden stick, similar to a

pen-holder, in the ice-water, then quickly into the boiling sugar, and

again in the ice-water, lifting up the stick to feel the sugar that

adheres. Should it not be sufficiently consistent to form into a ball,

let boil a little longer; then try once more; and should it be a proper

thickness, remove from the fire and set it on the corner of the stove,

so that it no longer boils. While the sugar is cooking, beat the whites

of five eggs in a copper basin until they are a firm froth; and while

beating, have an assistant pour very gradually the prepared sugar into

the egg-froth; and When all is added, lay the basin containing the

preparation into a vessel half filled with ice-water. Remove the whip,

and using a wooden spatula, mix gently for five minutes, adding a

teaspoonful of vanilla flavoring. Cover the basin with a napkin, letting

it rest for ten minutes. Butter and flour a baking-sheet; slide down a

fancy tube (No. 3) into a pastry-bag (No. 1079), fill it with the

preparation, press down onto the baking-sheet, giving a C-shape, two

inches long by one wide, to forty of them; and then forming twenty more,

shaped like the letter D. Sprinkle them lightly with powdered sugar;

place in a very slow oven, and let bake for fifteen minutes. When baked,

these cakes should be perfectly white. Remove them from the oven, let

get thoroughly cold; dress on a glass stand, and send to the table.

=1250. Méringue-shells.=--Prepare a méringue as for No. 1247. Slide a

tube (No. 4) down a pastry-bag (No. 1079); lay a piece of paper over a

baking-sheet, and after putting the méringue into the bag, press it out

onto the paper, giving it an egg-shape, two and a half inches long by

one inch high. There will be enough to make eighteen equal-sized

shells. Be careful to keep them one inch apart. Sprinkle over liberally

with powdered sugar, and place in a very slow oven to bake thirty

minutes. Remove, and set to cool for twenty-five minutes. Then turn the

paper containing the shells upside down on the table; and with a wet

cloth or brush moisten well the paper; turn them over again, and let

rest for two minutes, when the shells will detach easily. With the

finger press them gently, one by one, in the bottom, into a perfect

shell-shape. Return them to the baking-sheet, laying them upside down,

and put them in the oven to dry thoroughly for ten minutes; then leave

them to cool for thirty minutes more. Keep them in a dry place, either

in a tin or paper box, and use when required. Méringue-shells prepared

this way will keep nicely for at least twenty-five days.

=1251. Swiss Méringues à l’Helvétienne.=--Have a méringue preparation as

for No. 1247; slide down in a pastry-bag (No. 1079) a tube (No. 4).

Butter and flour a baking-sheet; make on it one design eight inches in

diameter; another exactly the same shape, only six inches, and another

of the same, only four inches. Put the méringue into the bag, and press

it down gently over and around the first design, making the paste

three-quarters of an inch thick; repeat the same for the second and

third forms. Press down in the pan some more méringue, making a little

cone four inches high, two inches in diameter at the base, and tapering

gradually to a point at the top. Sprinkle the whole lightly with

powdered sugar, and place the pan in a very moderate oven to bake for

twenty-five minutes. Take it out, and let it thoroughly cool for half an

hour. Have a quart of whipped crême à la vanille (No. 1254), add to it

half a gill of Swiss kirsch and half a gill of maraschino, and with a

pastry-whip beat the whole together for three minutes. Have ready a

round dessert-dish with a fancy paper over, detach carefully the largest

form from the pan, lay it on the dish, detach the second, lay it over

the first, and fill the hollow space with half of the cream; now detach

the third and smallest piece and lay it over the others, filling it

entirely with part of the cream, and finally detach the cover, and

arrange it nicely on the top. Pour the remaining cream into the

pastry-bag containing the fancy tube, and with it decorate the places

where the rings are joined. Then send to the table.

=1252. Crême Renversée.=--Put in a copper sugar-pan three ounces of

granulated sugar with half a gill of cold water. Toss the pan briskly to

melt the sugar well; then place it on the stove, and let it boil slowly

until it becomes a light brown color. If a moderate fire, it will

require four minutes, but if a brisk one only two will suffice; this

will now be a caramel. Take a pudding-mold holding one quart; line the

interior with all the caramel, holding the mold in the left hand, and

spreading it evenly all round. Put the mold in a cool place, and let it

become thoroughly cold. Have one pint of milk in a bowl; break in four

eggs, add a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar and a teaspoonful of

lemon essence. Beat well for five minutes; strain through a sieve into

another bowl, and fill the mold with this cream. Place it in a tin pan

filled with water to half the height of the mold, and place in a very

moderate oven for forty-five minutes. When of a good golden color

remove, and cool for at least two hours. Turn it on a dessert-dish, and

serve with its own juice.

=1253. Crême en Mousse au Café.=--Take a pint of whipped cream as for

No. 1254, add three tablespoonfuls of coffee essence (No. 1263), and

beat well together for five minutes. Transfer it to a china bowl, and

put it in a cold ice-box. When ready to serve, use a spoon to drop the

cream carefully upon the centre of a cold, round dessert-dish, keeping

it as high as possible, shaping it into a pretty, artistic dome. Send

immediately to the table.

=1254. Whipped Cream à la Vanille.=--Put a pint of sweet cream into a

basin. Have a tub or large dish-pan containing chopped ice and a little

water, and lay the basin on top. With a soft wire egg-whip beat the

cream slowly at first, and increase in swiftness until it is a firm

froth. Sweeten with two ounces of powdered sugar, and add a teaspoonful

of vanilla flavoring, beating constantly. Let it rest, and use when

needed. Remove all the superfluous milk which may be found with the

cream, before using it.

=1255. Crême en Mousse au Rhum.=--With a pint of fresh, sweet cream

proceed as for No. 1254, adding a gill of rum, and beating well together

for five minutes. Transfer it into a china bowl, and place in the

ice-box until ready to use. When serving, have a cold dessert-dish, and

with a wooden spoon drop the cream carefully into the centre of the

dish, keeping it piled high as possible so to give it a pretty dome

form, and send to the table immediately.

=1256. Crême en Mousse au Kirsch.=--Proceed as for No. 1255, only

substituting a gill of kirsch for the gill of rum; serve in the same

manner.

=1257. Crême en Mousse au Maraschino.=--Prepared the same as crême en

mousse au rhum (No. 1255), substituting a gill of maraschino for the

rum.

=1258. Crême en Mousse au Cognac.=--The same as for No. 1255, adding a

gill of cognac instead of the rum, but serving the same way.

=1259. Crême en Mousse au Curaçoa.=--Substituting a gill of curaçoa for

a gill of rum, and proceeding precisely the same as for No. 1255.

=1260. Crême en Mousse.=--To be prepared exactly the same, only using a

gill of any other liquor desired, and serving the same as No. 1255.

=1261. Charlotte Russe à la Crême.=--Take six small, round charlotte

russe molds two and a half inches high, three inches in diameter at the

top by two at the bottom. When thoroughly cleaned, line them with

biscuits à la cuillère (No. 1231), cut them in two, and should they be

higher than the mold, trim them off to the edge. Pour the whipped cream

(No. 1254) into a pastry-bag (No. 1079), and fill up the molds. Turn

them over onto six dessert-plates, spread a little more cream on the top

of each, and cover them each with one macaroon (No. 1210). Dress the

rest of the cream nicely around the plates, and serve.

=1262. Charlotte Russe au Café.=--Line and prepare six small

charlotte-molds as for the above (No. 1261), adding to the whipped

cream two tablespoonfuls of coffee essence (No. 1263). Beat thoroughly

together for two minutes, then fill the molds, and serve as for the

above.

=1263. Coffee Essence.=--Take one ounce of good, ground coffee; place it

in a small saucepan with half a pint of cold water, and let boil until

reduced to about two tablespoonfuls. Then strain through a cloth,

pressing it well, and let cool thoroughly. Add it to the cream as

described in No. 1262.

=1264. How to Cook Sugar.=--Put into a sugar-pan one pound of granulated

sugar, with half a pint of cold water; place it on a brisk stove. Have a

vessel containing two quarts of ice-water, and when the sugar comes to a

boil dip the fingers of the right hand into the water, and quickly pass

them all around the inside of the pan, being careful to avoid touching

the sugar; repeat this two or three times. However difficult this

operation may appear, it is essential that it should be done, in order

to have the sugar in a perfect condition. Take care to dip the fingers

into the ice-water each time. Let the sugar boil; then squeeze in three

drops of lemon juice. To know when it is sufficiently boiled, have a

thin piece of wood the shape of a larding-needle. Dip the point into the

ice-water, and then plunge it into the boiling sugar; remove it quickly,

and dip it immediately into the water again. Lift it out, and see

whether the sugar adhering to the wood be thoroughly hard. If not, let

boil again, and continue to test with the stick as before. To be certain

that the sugar is perfectly done, place the point of the stick between

the teeth, and bite it. Should the sugar stick to the teeth, it needs

more boiling, but if it cracks easily without sticking, it is thoroughly

done. Remove it immediately from the fire, and place the bottom of the

pan in the ice-water to prevent the sugar from turning brown.

The above cooked sugar can be used for glazing dried fruits and candied

fruits of all kinds; also to fasten on pieces of nougat, and to make any

kind of caramels, etc., etc.

=1265. Burned Sugar.=--Put into a small iron omelet-pan half a pound of

granulated sugar, and place on a slow stove, to burn thoroughly for

thirty minutes. Remove the pan to the table to cool slightly for five

minutes, and then add half a pint of boiling water, mixing well with an

iron spoon. Replace the pan on the stove, and boil for five minutes,

stirring continually; then strain the sugar through a sieve into a

vessel, and put in a cold place to cool thoroughly. Pour it into a

bottle, and use when required. Burned sugar prepared this way will keep

in perfect condition for several weeks.

=1266. Nougat.=--Have ready four ounces of peeled and dried almonds (No.

1207). Cut each into four slices, and lay them in a tin pan with a sheet

of paper under them. Put the pan in a warm place, but not on the stove.

Take a copper sugar-pan, or dropper, put into it six ounces of powdered

sugar, and place it on a hot stove; then with a dry, wooden spatula stir

continually, until the sugar is dissolved, being careful to avoid

browning it. Remove from the fire, add one drop of lemon juice, and let

it cool off slightly for three minutes, stirring constantly; then add

the almonds, mixing all gently with the spatula for two minutes. The

nougat is now ready for use, and can be molded into cornets-d’abondance,

columns, bases, or any shape the fancy may dictate.

=1267. Small Pyramid of Nougat.=--Oil slightly the interior of a small,

round base. Take half the nougat, prepared as for No. 1266, lay it on a

marble table (the nougat should always be hot), roll it out very thin

with an oiled roller, and with this line the oiled base. Then with a

whole lemon sharply press the nougat onto the mold to give it a perfect

form, cutting it evenly away all around the edge. Put the pieces with

the rest in the pan, and place near the fire to keep hot. Have a small

cornet-d’abondance (cornucopia), oil it slightly, and line the inside

with half the remaining nougat, rolled out as before, and pressing it

the same. Cut away all the superfluous part, and let it cool slightly.

Then unmold both the base and cornet. Oil a tartlet-mold, and line it

with the rest of the nougat. Lay the base carefully upon a glass stand

of suitable size, the covered part uppermost, and fasten to the stand

with cooked sugar (No. 1264). With cooked sugar fasten the cornet in the

middle, small end uppermost, using cooked sugar for the purpose. Put the

remaining piece from the tartlet-mold on top of all, and fasten it in

the same way. All this should be done carefully and patiently. Have

ready two well-peeled, sound oranges, pull them gently to pieces,

looking closely at each separate section to see that the skin is not

broken or loosened. Have a quarter of a pound of fresh Malaga grapes,

detach them, leaving on each grape about a quarter of an inch of stem.

Take also two ounces of candied cherries, plunge the grapes into the

cooked sugar (No. 1264), and with a fork lift them up, and immediately

lay them on a well-cleaned, oiled, marble table. Treat the pieces of

orange and the cherries each the same way. During this time, should the

sugar become cool, heat it up once more; fill the cornet with these

fruits, dipping one side of each piece into the cooked sugar to make

them adhere together. With a part of them fill the tart-shaped piece on

top, proceeding in the same manner, and decorate with glace royale (No.

1269).

=1269. Glace Royale.=--Put the white of one egg into a small bowl. Beat

it well with a small spatula, adding six ounces of extra fine sugar, and

squeezing in three drops of lemon juice. Then continue beating for

twenty minutes. When finished, it should be snow-white and pulpy. Make a

small brown paper cornet, cut off the lower end, slide down a small

fancy tube, and pour in some of the glace royale, covering the remainder

of it with a damp cloth. Then with the cornet decorate the edge of the

nougat base as in the preceding (No. 1268), also the upper edge, and all

around the edge of the cornet, and finish by decorating artistically the

tart-shaped piece on top; then send it to the table.

All nougat pieces, when finished, should be kept in a moderate

temperature.

The Delmonico Cook Book: How to Buy Food, How to Cook It, and How to Serve It. · 第 39 / 55 段