A third of a pinch of nutmeg represents 13 grains, or half a
teaspoonful.
FISH.
=298. How to Serve Oysters for Private Families.=--Oysters should be
kept in a very cold place before they are opened, and well washed before
using, otherwise their appearance will be destroyed. They should,
according to the French custom, be opened on the deep shell, so as to
better preserve the liquor, then laid on finely chopped ice for a short
time--too long destroys their flavor. While they should be kept as cold
as possible, they should never be allowed to freeze, therefore they must
only be opened shortly before they are needed; for once frozen, they
quickly turn sour. The proper way to open them is to place the deep
shell in the palm of the left hand, and break them on one side. The
Boston stabbing-knife is preferable for this, but if there be none handy
use a small block that the oyster can fit into, and stab it on the edge;
or even a chopping-block and chopping-knife may be employed in case of
necessity. Serve six oysters for each person, nicely arranged on
oyster-plates with quarters of lemon.
=299. Oysters à l’Alexandre Dumas.=--Place in a sauce-bowl a heaped
teaspoonful of salt, three-quarters of a teaspoonful of very finely
crushed white pepper, one medium-sized, fine, sound, well-peeled, and
very finely chopped shallot, one heaped teaspoonful of very finely
chopped chives, and half a teaspoonful of parsley, also very finely
chopped up. Mix lightly together, then pour in a light teaspoonful of
olive oil, six drops of Tabasco sauce, one saltspoonful of
Worcestershire sauce, and lastly one light gill, or five and a half
tablespoonfuls, of good vinegar. Mix it thoroughly with a spoon; send to
the table, and with a teaspoon pour a little of the sauce over each
oyster just before eating them.
=300. How to serve Clams.=--Clams should be served on deep plates,
covered previously with finely chopped ice. To have them sweet and
fresh, they should be kept as cold as possible. Serve six on each plate
with quarters of lemon.
=301. To prepare Breaded Fish.=--1. After the fish is pared, cleaned,
and dried, dip it first in milk, then in flour, and fry in very hot fat.
2. Take very clean fish, dip it in beaten egg, then in freshly grated
bread-crumbs, and fry in very hot fat.
3. For certain fish, like whitebait, immerse them in milk, then in flour
mixed with pulverized crackers, shake well in a colander, and throw into
very hot fat. Oysters are breaded the same way, but should be flattened
before frying.
4. For croustades of rice or potatoes, dip in beaten egg and roll in
fresh bread-crumbs; repeat three times before frying.
=302. Salmon, en Papillotes.=--Procure two pounds of very fresh salmon
and cut it into six even slices. Season these with a good pinch of salt
and a pinch of pepper. Roll them well. Cut out six heart-shaped pieces
of paper, oil them nicely, and have twelve thin slices of cooked ham
(No. 753), then proceed to prepare them exactly as for mackerel en
papillote (No. 330).
=303. Salmon, oyster sauce.=--Place two pounds of very fresh salmon in a
fish-kettle, completely cover with cold water, season with a handful of
salt, add one medium-sized, sliced onion, half a wine-glassful of white
vinegar, eight whole peppers, two cloves, and two parsley-roots. Range
the kettle on a brisk fire. Five minutes after coming to a boil the
salmon will be sufficiently cooked. Remove from the kettle, drain it
well; dress on a hot dish with a folded napkin, nicely decorate with
parsley-greens all around the salmon, and serve with a pint of hot
oyster sauce (No. 173) separately.
The necessary time to cook the above to perfection, from beginning to
end, will be thirty-five minutes.
=304. Salmon Colbert.=--Proceed as for the above, and serve with
three-quarters of a pint of Colbert sauce (No. 190), also four plain
boiled potatoes served separately, and cut in quarters (No. 982).
=305. Salmon à la Régence.=--Take a fine but very small salmon, fill it
with fish forcemeat (No. 227), and put it on a grate in the fish-kettle
with half a bunch of parsley-roots, three sprigs of celery, three sliced
onions, six cloves, and half a handful of whole pepper. Moisten with
half a bottle of white wine, season with a pinch of salt, and cover with
a thin _barde_ of raw salt pork. Add a little mushroom liquor, if any on
hand, and place it in a moderate oven for one and a half to two hours;
then lift it from the kettle, removing the pork and herbs. Slide the
fish on to a hot dish, strain the broth into a sautoire, reduce it to
one-half, and add to the garnish with a régence garnishing (No. 235);
glaze the top of the fish with just a little crawfish butter (No. 150)
mixed with very little white glaze (No. 141), and serve with the sauce
in a sauce-bowl.
=306. Salmon à la Genoise.=--To be prepared the same as salmon Colbert
(No. 304), garnishing with four clusters of mushrooms--four mushrooms on
each cluster--and six cooked crawfish instead of the boiled potatoes.
Serve with half a pint of Genoise sauce (No. 187) separate.
=307. Salmon, rolled à l’Irlandaise.=--Bone three pounds of salmon.
Parboil it. Besprinkle the sides and insides with a pinch of salt, half
a pinch of pepper, and the same of nutmeg; also twelve chopped oysters,
one tablespoonful of parsley, and half a cupful of bread-crumbs. Roll it
together, then put it in a deep pan with one ounce of butter. Bake in a
hot oven for twenty-five minutes and serve on a dish, pouring its own
gravy over.
=308. Broiled Salmon-tail.=--Take three pounds of the tail part of a
salmon. Steep it for five or six hours in a marinade composed of three
tablespoonfuls of olive oil in a dish with a quarter of a bunch of
parsley-roots, two bay-leaves, and a sprig of thyme. Take out the salmon
and broil for ten minutes on one side and five minutes on the other
(skin side). Dress on a hot dish, and serve with two ounces of melted
butter (No. 155), flavored with a light teaspoonful of finely chopped
chervil, half a teaspoonful of chives, and the juice of half a
medium-sized, sound lemon.
=309. Boiled Halibut.=--Put a piece of halibut weighing two pounds in a
saucepan, and cover it with fresh water; add one sliced onion, half a
sliced carrot, and a bouquet (No. 254). Season with a handful of salt
and two tablespoonfuls of vinegar. Put on the lid and let cook gently,
but no more than five minutes after boiling-point; then lift up the fish
alone, drain well; dress it on a hot dish, and serve with any desired
sauce.
=310. Halibut Steaks, maître d’hôtel.=--Wipe well a two-pound piece of
fresh halibut, lay it on a dish, and season it with a pinch of salt, a
pinch of pepper, and two tablespoonfuls of sweet oil. Roll it well and
lay it on a double broiler; then place it on a brisk fire, and broil for
eight minutes on each side. Dress the fish on a hot dish, pour a gill of
maître d’hôtel sauce (No. 145) over, decorate with parsley-greens, and
serve.
=311. Trout, shrimp sauce.=--Clean, wash, and dry six fine trout,
weighing about a quarter of a pound each. Place them on a grate in the
fish-kettle, with a pinch of salt, adding one sliced carrot, one sprig
of thyme, and two bay-leaves. Moisten with half a glassful of white wine
and half a pint of water. Put it on the stove, and let it simmer gently
for five minutes after boiling-point; then drain, and serve on a dish
garnished with parsley. Send it to the table with half a pint of shrimp
sauce (No. 178) in a separate bowl, also four plain, boiled potatoes,
cut in quarters, à l’Anglaise (No. 988). Keep the fish-stock for further
use.
=312. Trout à la Cambacères.=--Cook six trout as for the above (No.
311); when cooked, then place on a hot dish. Put in a saucepan two
minced truffles, six mushrooms, also minced, and half a pint of
Espagnole sauce (No. 151), also twelve olives and three tablespoonfuls
of tomato sauce (No. 205). Let cook for ten minutes, then skim off the
fat very carefully, and pour the sauce over the trout before serving.
=313. Trout à la Chambord.=--Clean, wash, and dry three fine trout of
half a pound each. Stuff them with fish forcemeat (No. 227), and place
them in a deep baking-dish, buttering it well with about half an ounce
of butter. Add half a glassful of white wine, a bouquet (No. 254), half
a pinch of salt, and half a pinch of pepper. Cook for fifteen minutes in
the oven, being very careful to baste it frequently. Take the juice from
under the fish, and put it in a saucepan with half a pint of good
Espagnole sauce (No. 151). Reduce, and skim off the fat. Add one truffle
and four mushrooms, all well-sliced, also twelve blanched oysters. Dress
the trout on a hot dish, pour the sauce over, and decorate the fish with
six fish quenelles (No. 227).
=314. Broiled Trout, maître d’hôtel.=--Procure six fine trout, of a
quarter of a pound each; clean and wash well, drain them in a napkin,
and make three incisions on each side. Place them on a dish with one
teaspoonful of oil, a pinch of salt, and half a pinch of pepper; roll
gently and put them on the broiler. Cook for four minutes on each side,
then lay them on a dish, pour a gill of maître d’hôtel sauce (No. 177)
over, and serve with six slices of lemon, or with any other sauce
desired.
=315. Trout, with fine herbs.=--Clean, wash, and dry six fine trout, of
a quarter of a pound each. Put them on a buttered dish, adding half a
glassful of white wine and one finely chopped shallot. Let cook for ten
minutes, then put the gravy in a saucepan, with two tablespoonfuls of
cooked herbs (No. 143), moistening with half a pint of Allemande sauce
(No. 210). Reduce the gravy to one-half, and pour it over the trout with
the juice of half a sound lemon, and serve.
=316. Trout en Papillotes.=--Take six trout, of a quarter of a pound
each, and stuff them with fish forcemeat (No. 227). Oil as many pieces
of paper as there are fish; put a _barde_ of salt pork on either end of
each piece of paper, lay a trout on top, add a little salt and pepper,
then fold the paper and tie it securely with string. Cook in a
baking-dish in a rather slow oven for about twenty minutes, and serve
them in their envelopes, after removing the strings, with any sauces
desired.
=317. Sole à l’Hollandaise.=--Skin and bone well three medium-sized
soles; put the fillets in a stewpan, and cover them with salted water,
adding a few drops of vinegar. Cook for about six minutes. Then take
them off, drain well, and arrange them on a dish. Pour one ounce of
melted butter over, with the juice of half a lemon; garnish with green
parsley, and serve with twelve pieces of potatoes à l’Anglaise (No. 988)
separate.
=318. Soles Normande.=--Take the fillets from three fine soles, as for
the above; fold them in two, and lay them in a buttered, flat saucepan,
with half a glassful of white wine, three tablespoonfuls of mushroom
liquor, and half a pinch each of salt and pepper. Cover and cook for six
minutes; then lift them up, drain, and arrange them on a dish. Reduce
the gravy to one-half, add twelve blanched oysters, and six sliced
mushrooms, moistening with half a pint of Allemande sauce (No. 210).
Thicken the sauce well with a tablespoonful of good butter, tossing well
till dissolved, and add the juice of half a lemon. Garnish the sides of
the dish with the oysters and mushrooms, and pour the sauce over the
fish. Decorate with three small, cooked crawfish, three fried smelts,
and three small, round croquettes of potatoes (No. 997).
=319. Soles au Gratin.=--Proceed as for No. 318. Put three
tablespoonfuls of cooked, fine herbs (No. 143) in the bottom of a deep
baking-dish, fold the fillets in two, and place them in, crown-shaped.
Season with half a pinch each of salt and pepper, then moisten with half
a glassful of white wine, and bake for five minutes. Take out the dish,
decorate it with twelve mushroom buttons, adding half a pint of good
Espagnole sauce (No. 151). Sprinkle over with fresh bread-crumbs, pour
on a few drops of melted butter, and bake once more for three minutes,
then press the juice of half a lemon over the fillets, add half a pinch
of chopped parsley, and serve. (All fish au gratin are prepared the same
way.)
=320. Fried Soles, sauce Colbert.=--Select six small soles, cut off
their heads, and make an incision down the backbone. Season with one
pinch of salt, half a pinch of pepper, and the juice of half a lemon;
roll in fresh bread-crumbs and beaten eggs, then flatten them well, and
leave them to drip for a few minutes; fry them for three minutes in very
hot fat; drain, add another half a pinch of salt, and arrange them on a
dish on a folded napkin. Garnish with a quarter of a bunch of fried
parsley, and serve with half a pint of Colbert sauce (No. 190) separate.
=321. Fried Soles à la Horly.=--Fry twelve fillets of sole as for No.
320, and serve with half a pint of tomato sauce (No. 205) separate.
=322. Fillets of Sole, Joinville.=--Take the fillets of three soles,
fold them, and lay them crown-shaped in a buttered, flat stewpan,
moistening with half a glassful of white wine, and three tablespoonfuls
of mushroom liquor. Season with half a pinch each of salt and pepper,
and cook on a moderate fire for six minutes. Arrange the fillets on a
dish, and put it on the side of the stove; reduce the gravy to half,
adding one cooked lobster claw, one truffle, and three mushrooms, all
cut julienne-shaped. Add half a pint of Allemande sauce (No. 210); stir
it well, and pour it over the soles before serving, inserting a piece of
truffle and a mushroom button on each fillet, also in every one stick a
picked shrimp, with its head erect, if at hand, and then serve.
=323. Sole, with fine herbs.=--Proceed as for sole Joinville (No. 322),
but replace the truffles and lobster claw by two tablespoonfuls of
cooked, fine herbs (No. 143), half a pinch of chopped parsley, and the
same of chervil and chives. Garnish with six heart-shaped croûtons (No.
133), and serve.
=324. Sole Dieppoise.=--Lift the fillets from three medium-sized soles,
put them in a buttered stewpan, with one very finely chopped shallot,
moistening with half a glassful of white wine, and three tablespoonfuls
of mushroom liquor. Cook for six minutes, then lay them on a dish,
reduce the gravy to half, adding twelve cooked mussels, six mushroom
buttons, and half a pint of good Allemande sauce (No. 210). Thicken it
well with a tablespoonful of butter, tossing till well dissolved, and
throw it over the fillets with the juice of half a lemon. Serve with six
croûtons of fried bread (No. 133) around the dish.
=325. Skate or Raie au Naturel.=--Pare and cut off the fins from half a
skate weighing four pounds the half; divide it into six square pieces,
wash them well, being very careful to scrape it with a sharp knife, so
as to remove the mucus adhering to it. Put the pieces into a saucepan in
which are already placed one sliced carrot, one onion, half a bunch of
parsley-roots, one sprig of thyme, two bay-leaves, half a handful of
whole peppers, plenty of salt--at least a handful--and half a cupful of
vinegar. Cover it well with water, boil on a moderate fire for
forty-five minutes, then take it off and lift up the pieces of skate
with a skimmer; lay them on a table, and remove the skin from both
sides; place them on a deep dish, and strain the stock slowly over, and
use, whenever needed, with any kind of sauce desired.
=326. Shad, broiled maître d’hôtel.=--Pare and cut a small shad in two,
scale it and remove the backbone; lay it on a dish, sprinkling it over
with a pinch of salt, and baste with one tablespoonful of oil. Leave it
for a few moments, then broil it on a slow fire in a double broiler for
about fifteen minutes on the flesh side, and for one minute on the skin
side, leaving the roe in the inside. Put it on a hot dish, spread a gill
of good maître d’hôtel sauce (No. 177) over, and serve with six slices
of lemon.
=327. Shad, with Sorrel.=--Select a small, fine shad, pare and scale it,
then let it steep as long as possible in a marinade composed of one
tablespoonful of oil, half a sliced lemon, a quarter of a bunch of
parsley-roots, and half a sliced onion. When ready, place it in a
buttered stewpan, with half a glassful of white wine, three
tablespoonfuls of mushroom liquor, also a good bouquet (No. 254). Take
two handfuls of picked and washed sorrel, mince it very fine, then put
it in the stewpan with the fish, adding a good pinch of salt and half a
pinch of pepper; cover it, and let it cook as long as possible on a slow
fire--at least two hours; then arrange the shad on a dish. Add one
tablespoonful of white roux (No. 135) to the juice, thicken well, and
pour the sauce over the fish when serving, with some more of its own
gravy in a sauce-bowl.
=328. Shad vert-pré.=--Pare and scale a small, fine shad, put it on a
deep baking-dish, well buttered, and season with one pinch of salt and
half a pinch of pepper, adding two finely chopped shallots and half a
glassful of white wine. Cover with a piece of buttered paper, and cook
in a moderate oven for twenty-five minutes. When done, put the juice in
a saucepan, with half a pint of Allemande sauce (No. 210), a pinch of
finely chopped chervil, and a little spinach green (Breton essence, a
saltspoonful). Let cook again for three minutes, then pour a little of
it, through a Chinese strainer, on the fish, and serve the rest in a
separate sauce-bowl.
=329. Broiled Fresh Mackerel, maître d’hôtel.=--Pare and split two
good-sized, fresh mackerel through the back, remove the spine, score
them slightly, and rub them with one tablespoonful of sweet oil; season
with a pinch of salt and half a pinch of pepper, then broil them on a
brisk fire for ten minutes on the split side, and one minute on the skin
side. Lay them on a dish, pour a gill of maître d’hôtel butter (No. 145)
over, and serve with a few parsley-greens and six slices of lemon.
Broiled Spanish-mackerel are prepared in the same way.
=330. Mackerel en Papillotes.=--Oil three sheets of white paper a little
larger than the length of the fish. Cut six thin slices of cooked, lean
ham; lay one slice on each piece of paper, and on top a tablespoonful of
cooked fine herbs (No. 143). Select three mackerel; make four or five
incisions on each side; season with a good pinch of salt and a pinch of
pepper, divided evenly on both sides of the fish, then roll them
lightly, and lay the mackerel on top of the fine herbs; spread a
tablespoonful more herbs over each mackerel, and cover with a slice of
ham. Then lift up the other side of the paper and twist the edges
together with the fingers, or a simpler way is to fold them the same as
trout (No. 316). When ready, put them in a baking-sheet, place them in a
moderate oven, and let bake for fifteen minutes. Have a hot dish ready,
and after taking them from the oven, use a cake-turner to lift the fish
up gently, and dress them on the dish, leaving the paper undisturbed,
then serve.
=331. Fresh Mackerel aux Fines Herbes.=--Choose two fine, fresh
mackerel, make six small incisions on both sides, and place them in a
buttered baking-dish, with half a glassful of white wine, three
tablespoonfuls of mushroom liquor, a finely chopped shallot, and half a
pinch of salt, with the third of a pinch of pepper. Cover with a piece
of buttered paper, and bake in a moderate oven for fifteen minutes, then
place the fish on a dish. Pour the gravy into a stewpan, adding two
tablespoonfuls of cooked fine herbs (No. 143), a pint of Allemande sauce
(No. 210), and a pinch of chopped parsley. Thicken well with a
tablespoonful of butter; stir well until dissolved, and pour it over the
mackerel when serving. (All mackerel can be prepared the same way, only
adding different sauces to the gravy.)
=332. Matelote of Eels.=--Pare and then cut one and a half pounds of
eels into pieces two inches in length. When well washed, put them in a
stewpan with one tablespoonful of butter; fry them for two minutes; add
a glassful of red wine, a third of a pinch of nutmeg, half a pinch of
salt, and a third of a pinch of pepper, also a bouquet (No. 254), a
glassful of fish-stock (No. 214), or white broth (No. 99), and three
tablespoonfuls of mushroom liquor. Add six small, glazed onions (No.
972), and six mushroom buttons. Cook for thirty minutes, then put in a
tablespoonful of white roux (No. 135); stir well while cooking five
minutes longer, and serve with six heart-shaped croûtons (No. 133).
=333. Matelote of Eels à la Parisienne.=--Proceed the same as for the
above (No. 332), only lift out the fish when cooked; reduce the sauce to
half, adding three tablespoonfuls of Espagnole (No. 151), six mushroom
buttons, six glazed onions (No. 972), and six fish quenelles (No. 227).
Stir well while cooking two minutes longer, and serve with six fried
pieces of bread garnished with Soubise (No. 250).
=334. Matelote of Eels à la Normande.=--Cut one and a half pounds of
eels into pieces, put them in a saucepan with a tablespoonful of butter;
fry two minutes; add a glassful of white wine, and three tablespoonfuls
of mushroom liquor. Season well with half a pinch each of salt and
pepper, and a third of a pinch of nutmeg. Cook for ten minutes, then add
half a pint of good velouté (No. 152), six mushrooms, twelve blanched
oysters, six fish quenelles (No. 227), and six small, cooked crawfish
tails. Cook again for five minutes, and when ready to serve, beat in
three egg yolks, but do not boil again, and garnish with six fried
croûtons (No. 133).
=335. Blanched Eels.=--Select a pound and a half of well-skinned eels,
cut them into pieces and tie them in rings; put them with cold water in
a saucepan, with a good pinch of salt and a little vinegar, a sprig of
thyme, two bay-leaves, twelve whole peppers, a quarter of a bunch of
parsley-roots, one onion, and one carrot. Place them on a slow fire, and
take them off before they boil; lay them in an earthen jar with the
water they were boiled in. (These can be used for frying or boiling,
according to need).
=336. Bluefish à l’Icarienne.=--Scale and score two pounds of bluefish,
place it on a well-buttered baking-dish, moistening with three
tablespoonfuls of mushroom liquor and half a glassful of white wine.
Season with half a pinch of salt and a third of a pinch of pepper, then
cover with a buttered paper, and put to cook in a moderately heated oven
for fifteen minutes; lift it out, lay it on a dish, and put the gravy
into a stewpan, adding three tablespoonfuls of tomato sauce (No. 205)
and half an ounce of finely minced, cooked, smoked beef-tongue. Boil for
two minutes again, and throw the whole over the fish when serving.
Garnish with six small, cooked crawfish, if any on hand.
=337. Bluefish à l’Italienne.=--Score and scale two pounds of bluefish;
place it in a buttered pan, with half a glassful of white wine, three
tablespoonfuls of mushroom liquor, half of a very finely chopped onion,
and six chopped-up mushrooms. Season with a pinch of salt and half a
pinch of pepper. Cover the fish with a buttered paper, and cook in a
moderate oven for fifteen minutes; take the fish out, lay it on a
serving dish, and put the juice in a stewpan, adding a gill of Espagnole
sauce (No. 151), with a small glassful of white wine; reduce for two
minutes, then pour it over the fish, with one pinch of finely chopped
parsley, and serve with six heart-shaped pieces of croûton (No. 133).
=338. Bluefish à la Venitienne.=--Prepare the fish as for the above (No.
337), adding to it one tomato cut in pieces, half a pint of Espagnole
sauce (No. 151) and six whole mushrooms. Besprinkle lightly with fresh
bread-crumbs, and throw over all a few drops of clarified butter; put it
in the oven for eight minutes, and serve with half a pinch of chopped
parsley.