CHAPTER XII

TURKISH WOMEN

IN the appearance and lot of Turkish women we see, perhaps, more

distinctly than in any other feature of life in Constantinople the

perpetuation of the ideas and usages which give to Turkish society its

peculiar character and physiognomy. The assertion is often made that,

according to the Moslem creed, woman has no soul. This is a mistake.

While man, indeed, is considered to be woman's superior on the ground of

his higher natural endowments and of his services as bread-winner, the

Koran, at the same time, recognises her spiritual nature and religious

capacity. "Verily," says that authority, "the resigned men and the

resigned women, the believing men and the believing women, the devout

men and the devout women, the truthful men and the truthful women, the

patient men and the patient women, the humble men and the humble women,

the charitable men and the charitable women, the fasting men and the

fasting women, the chaste men and the chaste women, and the men and

women who oft remember God, for them hath God prepared forgiveness and a

mighty recompense." Although the female companionship which forms one of

the delights of the Mohammedan Paradise will be furnished by the houris,

still earth-born women are also present in the abodes of bliss. Hence a

Turkish mother, mourning the loss of her little girl, can find comfort

in putting over the child's grave this epitaph:--"The bird of my heart

has flown from its cage to find a place in the gardens of Paradise." If

Moslem women do not attend public worship in the mosques, the reason is

not any spiritual disqualification, but the idea that the sexes should

associate as little as possible. Yet elderly women may be seen at their

devotions in a mosque out of the hours of public worship, while during

the religious season of Ramazan special services for women are held in

some of the great mosques of the city, as well as in the imperial harem

and in the harems of wealthy personages, such services being conducted

by popular preachers. But after all is said that can be said to prove

that honourable views concerning woman are cherished in a society

constituted by Moslem thought, it remains true that the fundamental

conception underlying the organisation of that society and forming its

dominant spirit is of an opposite character. That conception, we should

in justice remember, is not peculiar to Islam. On the contrary, it has

prevailed outside the Mohammedan world; it has contaminated even the

life of Christendom. Nevertheless, the view that man and woman are not

equals, that the latter is chiefly made to minister to the pleasure of

the former, and that they are morally dangerous to each other, has

nowhere been applied so consistently, on so large a scale, and for so

long a period in the very presence of a higher civilisation, as in

Moslem society. Such a view demands naturally and necessarily that men

and women should be kept apart as much as the conditions of human

existence permit. Where polygamy, concubinage, and easy divorce are

lawful social arrangements, woman must be put behind the shelter of a

jealous protection. She must be placed out of sight, secluded, guarded,

and, when she appears in public, veiled and forbidden to display her

ornaments. Men, on the other hand, must avoid looking at a woman they

meet abroad, remembering that "God will reward the Muslim who, having

beheld the beauties of a woman, shuts his eyes," and that, though the

first look is excusable, because often unavoidable, the next is

unlawful. The outward manifestations of these ideas are seen on every

hand in the Turkish life of Constantinople. Hence the division of a

Turkish home into apartments for men (selamlik) and apartments for women

(harem), into the former of which no Turkish lady enters, and into the

latter of which only the nearest male relatives are admitted. Hence also

the two doors leading from the street respectively to these divisions of

the house; hence the latticed screens outside the windows of the harem

to conceal the inmates from even the hurried glance of passers-by. If

you have occasion to call upon a Turk who keeps no man-servant, and a

woman comes to answer the door, she will, before opening it, inquire who

has knocked. If the caller is a man, and the master of the house is out,

she will refuse admittance in a tone which makes you feel happy to

depart; if the master is in, she will open the door ajar, leaving you to

open it wide, after you have given her time to announce your visit, and

retire from view. There is no such thing in Turkish life as a mixed

social gathering of ladies and gentlemen. For husband and wife to walk,

or drive, or boat together was unknown until quite recent times, and

when such proceedings occur they are regarded with disfavour. In tramway

cars, in trains, on steamers, in waiting-rooms, men and women occupy

different compartments. Should the ladies' cabin on the steamers which

ply between the city and the suburbs on the Bosporus or the Marmora be

unoccupied at starting by Turkish women, gentlemen are permitted to seat

themselves in it, and to keep their places so long as Moslem women do

not appear. But if a Turkish lady embarks at a station on the way, the

cabin must be forthwith vacated by its male occupants, who do not

present the air of the lords of creation as they wander to find other

seats. On one occasion a foreign lady and gentleman reached a certain

pier on the Bosporus some time before the arrival of the steamer, which

was to convey them to the city, and, finding the ladies' waiting-room

empty, seated themselves in it. Presently an elderly Turkish woman,

belonging to a somewhat humble class of society, appeared, accompanied

by her son, a lad some fourteen years old. According to strict etiquette

the gentleman should have left the room. But, as the lady he was

escorting wished him to remain, and as the Turkish woman looked a

motherly person and had her boy with her, he kept his seat, forgetful of

use and wont. Suddenly the lad in the hanum's company went out. As the

event proved, it was to bring the man in charge of the pier upon the

scene. The latter approached the gentleman, whom he knew well, and in

the politest possible manner whispered the information that the Turkish

woman opposite objected to the presence of a man. There was nothing to

be done but for the intruder to withdraw with as little awkwardness as

the situation admitted, and the matter seemed settled to the

satisfaction of all concerned. But the indignation of the foreign lady

at the discomfiture of her escort was too great for the troubled waters

to be calmed so easily. Rushing out after him, she begged him to protest

on her behalf against the presence of the Turkish lad in the ladies'

room when she was there. So the faithful man in charge of the pier

proceeded to eject the youth likewise, while the fair complainant

resumed her seat in order to maintain her point until the steamer came

up. How her Turkish sister felt under the circumstances does not appear,

but the incident illustrates the influence upon the native mind of the

idea that men and women should be kept strictly apart.

For a woman's hair to be exposed to public view is considered an extreme

humiliation. A poor Turkish woman on her way to an asylum threw herself

in a fit of wild excitement upon the ground, and, in doing so, threw off

the veil which covered her head. "Alas, alas," screamed the female

friends who accompanied her, "she is showing her hair!" as though that

exposure was the worst feature of the case.

It would be a mistake, however, to infer from what has been said that

the seclusion to which Turkish women are consigned deprives them of all

freedom and social influence. The reverse is true. Wealthy ladies

control their own property even after their marriage. Furthermore, if

seclusion denies women certain privileges, it wins for them certain

rights--the right, above all, to have their seclusion respected. It

secures for them the regard cherished for those who have a great public

duty to perform, and entitles them to all the support requisite for the

discharge of that duty. A highly educated Turk, upon hearing of the

annoyance given to some Turkish ladies by the inquisitive gaze of

certain foreigners, expressed his indignation in the following curious

fashion: "Such conduct towards European ladies would not be strange, for

they exhibit themselves to public view, and must take the consequences;

but to treat Turkish ladies thus, when they have the right to enjoy

perfect privacy, was intolerable impertinence." Although it is not

becoming for a Turkish lady to go out by herself, a company of Turkish

women may go anywhere, not only without fear of molestation, but without

attracting the slightest notice. Even the police shrink from interfering

with them. Sometimes Turkish women will refuse to pay toll for crossing

the bridges which span the Golden Horn, and defy all the attempts of the

toll-men to enforce payment. One has seen Turkish women embark on a

Bosporus steamer without tickets, and when challenged for doing so, take

off a slipper, strike the ticket-collector, and proceed on their way

none the poorer. Like a famous thistle, a Turkish woman cannot be

touched with impunity. Nor is it strange that a man's female relatives

should influence him in Turkey, as much as they do in other countries

and in similar ways. After all, men and women are everywhere much the

same, and no artificial arrangements can altogether prevent the

operation of natural forces. Indeed, a man is, perhaps, more liable to

be swayed by his female relatives when they are the only women he meets.

But be that as it may, women related to the great officers of State

exercise considerable political influence. The mother of the Sultan,

known as the Validé Sultana, is the first lady in the land, and, if a

woman of capacity, is a power behind the throne. It is reported that the

famous British ambassador, Sir Stratford Canning, had once occasion to

suggest to the Sultan of his day that in taking a certain course of

action the sovereign of the Empire was yielding to a mother's counsels.

"True," replied the monarch, "but she is the only friend I can perfectly

trust as sincerely devoted to me." Several years ago, delay in the

payment of salaries, no unfrequent occurrence in Constantinople, caused

great suffering among the humbler employees of the Government. Other

methods of redress having failed, the aggrieved parties betook

themselves to the weapon of female force. Accordingly, a large body of

women, mostly the wives of the poor men, but including professional

female agitators, invaded the offices of the Minister of Finance. They

filled every corridor, swarmed upon every stairway, blocked every door

they could find, and made the building resound with lamentations and

clamours for payment. The Minister managed to escape by a back entrance.

But the women would not budge. It was vain to call in the police or

soldiers to intervene. The indecorum of a public application of force in

dealing with the women would have created too great a scandal, and so

the authorities bowed before "the might of weakness," and made the best

terms they could induce the victors to accept. A more recent experience

of the power of Turkish women to interfere, in spite of their seclusion,

with the affairs of the outer world, may be added. The owners of a piece

of land adjoining a Turkish village on the Bosporus decided to enclose

their property with a substantial wall of stone and mortar. As the

ground had long been a pleasant resort for the women and children of the

village, especially on Fridays, where sitting on the ground under the

shade of trees they enjoyed the fresh air and the beautiful views on

every side, the villagers very naturally regretted the loss which the

erection of the wall would involve, and they determined to prevent the

execution of the work to the utmost of their power. The opposition first

assumed a legal form. It was urged that the wall would interfere with

the water-course which supplied the village fountain, and furthermore,

would include a piece of land belonging to the community. Both

objections were shown to be without foundation, and building operations

were begun. No difficulties were raised until the wall approached the

fountain and the land in dispute, when it became evident that if the

work proceeded farther the opposition would resort to violent measures.

In the hope of coming to a friendly understanding with the villagers by

additional explanations, work was suspended for some time, but the

negotiations to establish peace having failed, the erection of the wall

was continued. The work had not gone far, when a band of women appeared,

led by the principal female personage in the community, who enjoyed the

distinction of being both the widow of the late imaum of the village

mosque and the mother of the present incumbent of that office; a

dark-visaged dame, with a sharp tongue. Not a single man accompanied the

women. Armed with sticks and stones, the band of Amazons rushed upon the

workmen and drove them off. The intervention of the police obliged the

women to retreat, but, when the masons returned next morning to their

work, they found the women already upon the scene of action. The imaum's

widow with another woman had seated themselves in the trench and defied

the erection of the wall over their bodies! Again the police interfered,

and, after all methods of gentle moral suasion had proved useless, they

actually lifted the imaum's widow somewhat forcibly out of the trench.

She took the affront so much to heart that she kept her bed for several

days. There was a consequent lull in the storm. But soon the women

resumed the struggle, coming in the dark and tearing down a considerable

portion of the building. The wall had therefore to be guarded by the

police during the day, and by watchmen during the night. Still the women

would not abandon the contest, and, as a supreme effort, sent a long

telegram to the Palace, invoking the sovereign's aid and protection. In

reply, they were invited to send a deputation to the Police Court

connected with the imperial residence. The pasha of the Court was a

veteran official who, though he could not read, and knew to write only

his own name, had reached his responsible position by force of character

and the possession of common sense. He expounded the law to the women

before him, informed them that he intended to enforce it, and gave them

a tremendous scolding for the manner in which they and their sisters

had behaved; seasoning justice, however, with mercy, to the extent of

presenting them a small sum of money wherewith to meet the expense of

their visit to him and of their telegram.

The young imaum of the village was also summoned, and made to understand

that, unless his mother's influence was employed to keep the peace, he

should lose his place. Accordingly, the war stopped, but there were

threats that the two persons most concerned with the erection of the

wall would be stoned to death. The threats were so serious that even a

brave Croat, in the service of the proprietors of the enclosed ground,

advised the superintendent of the works to avoid a road which would

expose him to assault. "I am an old man," replied the latter, a Briton,

"it will not matter much if I am stoned to death." "But," answered the

Croat, "will it not be a shame to be killed by women?" It was an

ungallant remark to make, in view of the spirit displayed by the women,

yet a characteristic expression of that poor estimate of womanhood

against which the weaker sex has still to contend in the East--the

estimate which led Abimelech, long ago, when at the point of death by a

blow from a woman's hand, to beseech his armour-bearer to kill him, lest

men should say "a woman slew him."

[Illustration: THE SWEET WATERS OF EUROPE

A pleasure resort near the upper end of the Golden Horn much in favour

in the spring, when every Friday afternoon crowds of Turkish ladies with

their children flock there for recreation by the water-side.]

But the world moves, and Turkish women move with it. The last generation

has witnessed remarkable changes in their habits both in the capital and

in other great cities of the Empire. For one thing, there has been a

striking change in the matter of dress. The time was, when a Turkish

woman brought vivid colouring into every scene she adorned. Her yashmak,

enveloping head and face and neck in white gauze; her feredjé enfolding

her form down to the feet in red, green, blue, pink, or any other hue

she fancied; her yellow boots and yellow overshoes, worn like slippers,

made her as gay and bright as a butterfly or a flower. What wonderful

pictures did groups of women thus attired form, as they squatted on a

red rug spread on the green grass under the shade of cypresses or

plane-trees, beside the Sweet Waters of Europe and the Heavenly Waters

of Asia; or as they sat in long rows by the shores of the Bosporus to

drink in the salt air, to watch the blue waters and the hurrying to and

fro of boats and sails and steamers; or as they floated in a caïque over

the quiet sea. What a fantasia of colour they made as they went slowly

past, seated in a long, narrow wagon (arabah), its high sides bright

with painted flowers and gilded arabesque, under a scarlet awning edged

with gold fringe, drawn by white oxen, over whose heads heavy red

tassels, attached to rods fixed in the yoke, waved with every motion of

the creaking wheels!

[Illustration: THE YASHMAK

The veil is sometimes so transparent that it scarcely conceals the

features at all.]

But this feast of colour has ended, and the world of Turkish womanhood

has exchanged the brightness of summer for the sober tints of autumn.

The yashmak is now universally discarded, except by the ladies of the

imperial household who are still required to wear it, as well as a black

feredjé; the only bit of bright colour permitted being in the matter of

the headkerchief of tulle they wear under the yashmak. In the costume of

the mass of Turkish women, the feredjé has been replaced by the

charshaf, a mantle worn over the head and about the body down to the

feet, drawn in slightly at the waist. The material and the colour of the

garment differ according to the means and taste of the wearer, but the

colour is always quiet and subdued. To the portion of the charshaf above

the eyes a dark veil is attached, and this can be worn over the face, or

thrown back over the head, as the wearer pleases. When thrown back, a

Turkish lady's face is seen as plainly as that of her European sister.

The charshaf may also be made of two pieces of cloth in order to secure

a better fit, and although the garb might seem to defy artistic

arrangement and effect, it is often very becoming and graceful. It would

appear that the charshaf was the original dress of Turkish women, with

the important difference from the present fashion that the veil could

not be thrown back, and was furnished with two holes for the eyes, as

among Moslem women to-day in Persia and India. The yashmak, it is said,

came into vogue at the time of the Conquest, being an adaptation of the

veil worn then by women of the Christian peoples of the land. Its

abandonment for the sake of a style which permits greater freedom is a

sign of progress. But the change, which was made some thirty years ago,

roused considerable opposition. Merchants in the bazaars objected to it,

because a charshaf required less material to be made up than a feredjé,

and consequently injured trade. Others found fault with it simply

because it was an innovation; while others feared that when worn with

the veil down it might facilitate disguise in carrying on social or

political intrigues. Nay, imperial iradès denounced and forbade the new

mode. But all was in vain, for even in Turkey it is possible for women

to have their own way. Nor is it only in their out-door dress that

Turkish women have introduced alterations. They have done so likewise in

their dress when at home. The baggy trousers, the embroidered vest and

jacket, which constituted the costume in which a Turkish hanum reclined

upon her divan, have been replaced, in the progressive section of

Turkish female society, by garments after European fashions. A Turkish

bride belonging to a wealthy family wears a wedding dress like that

which adorns a young lady under similar circumstances in Western lands,

the only difference being that the former allows her hair to hang down,

and decorates it with long narrow streamers of tinsel, pieces of which

she presents to her young friends for good luck. Elegant tea-gowns and

the latest Parisian robes are worn in wealthy harems. Turkish ladies,

indeed, have yet to adopt the low-necked dress, but, not to be

altogether behind the times, they make their servant-maids don that

attire on great occasions. When the maids are dark-skinned daughters of

Africa, the effect is not flattering to the costume. But after all,

these changes are interesting chiefly as indications of the fact that

the spirit of Turkish women has come, to some degree, under the

influence of new ideas. Polygamy is on the decline. Greater attention

is now paid to the education of girls among all classes of the

community. In wealthy families it is common for the daughters to have

English or French or German governesses, and to be instructed in the

ordinary branches of education, even to the extent of doing something so

foreign as to learn to ride. In a few instances, Turkish girls attend

foreign schools, and it is a most significant sign of the times to see

the female relatives of such girls present at the public proceedings of

these institutions. Periodicals providing special literature for ladies

have appeared, and there are Turkish authoresses, some of whom enjoy a

great reputation among their countrywomen. As might be expected, this

upward movement meets with opposition, as upward movements always meet

wherever they occur. Such a thing has been known as an imperial iradè,

commanding all foreign governesses to be dismissed from Turkish homes,

because of teachers pernicious ideas. On the eve of Ramazan it is usual

to issue strict orders for Turkish ladies to keep their veils down. A

Turkish lady once attended, with her husband, an "At Home" in a foreign

house. Shortly thereafter, the police called upon the gentleman, late in

the evening, as the custom is in this part of the world, and informed

him that he was wanted at the police-court next morning on important

business. What that business was the police did not condescend to say,

preferring to make night uncomfortable for the couple, by keeping them

in suspense. Upon appearing at the court the husband learned that the

visit of his wife to a foreign house, on the occasion referred to, had

been noticed and duly reported to the authorities, and he was warned

(under threat of severe penalty) not to allow the offence to be

repeated. At public gatherings at the Sweet Waters of Europe and Asia,

the police watch the behaviour of Turkish ladies as though so many

naughty or helpless children were abroad. One has seen a policeman order

a lady to put up the window of her carriage, because she attracted too

much admiration. At another time, one has seen a company of respectable

Turkish ladies, who were enjoying a moonlight row on the Bosporus,

packed home by the police. The life of educated Turkish women is

rendered hard and humiliating by such restrictions. On the occasion of a

visit to a Turkish gentleman in his garden, it so happened that two of

his nieces, not knowing that any one was calling, came to greet their

uncle. Surprised at seeing a man with him, the young ladies started

back, as gazelles might start at the sight of a hunter. Their uncle,

however, summoned them to return, and with extreme courtesy introduced

them to his visitor, with the information that one of the young ladies

could speak English. Conversation in that language had not gone far,

when another gentleman was announced. Instantly the girls sprang to

their feet and darted away as for dear life. "See," said the uncle in

tones of mingled vexation and sorrow, "See what it is to be an educated

Turkish lady!"

[Illustration: THE SWEET WATERS OF ASIA

Another favourite pleasure resort much frequented by Turkish ladies in

summer.]

A Turkish gentleman of high rank wishing his daughters to enjoy the

advantage of a European education, but anxious to spare them as much as

possible the chagrin and ennui of being educated above the station of a

Turkish lady, hoped to attain his object by having his girls learn to

speak French without being able to read in that language. Such

experiences are disheartening. But, as the pale flowers which come ere

winter has wholly gone herald the spring and foretell the glory of

summer, so the recent improvements in the lot of Turkish women, however

slight they may appear meantime, warrant the hope of further progress

and final emancipation.

Constantinople, painted by Warwick Goble, described by Alexander Van Millingen · 第 12 / 13 章