diversified. The growth of timber here is principally black walnut,
sugar maple, elm, sycamore, and pine. There is not, however, an
abundance of the latter. The streams within this territory are very
numerous, and well calculated for manufacturies of every kind; and the
fisheries here are exceedingly valuable. Besides vast quantities of many
other kinds of fish, caught in the waters within and contiguous to this
territory, during the spring and summer season, thousands of barrels of
white fish are taken here in the fall, and prepared for the home and
foreign markets.[107] This species of fish is of the size, and
appearance of the largest shad; but are far more valuable. Wild fowl of
all kinds greatly abound here.
The trade of the Michigan Territory is already very considerable, and it
is rapidly increasing. Besides the business transacted between different
parts of the territory itself, and with the Indian {121} tribes in the
neighbourhood, it transacts considerable business with the upper parts
of the state of New-York, Pennsylvania, and Ohio; and also with the
inhabitants of Upper Canada. Its shipping is employed on Lake Erie,
Huron, and Michigan, either in the fisheries, in freighting, or in
trading along the coast. In the summer season there is in Detroit a
considerable concourse of strangers, from the states by the way of
Buffalo, who furnish considerable sums as passage money to the ship
owners on Lake Erie; and in the spring of the year the neighbouring
Indians resort thither to dispose of their furs, and to purchase guns,
ammunition, blankets, and other articles.
Detroit is a central situation for the fur trade in the North-West;[108]
and there is a considerable commercial connexion between this place and
Chicago and Green Bay.
The establishment of a weighty fur company at Detroit, would result in
much individual and public advantage. The English, by their extensive
fur trade in the north and west, acquire an influence among the Indians,
which similar establishments on our part would completely counteract.
This influence renders the Indians hostile towards us, and in the event
of a war between this country and Great-Britain, would blend the
prejudices of the Englishman with the ferocity of the savage.
The English derive immense profits from the North American fur trade.
The North-West company employ in this business, exclusive of savages,
upwards of fifteen hundred men. The articles for the Indian market are
cheap, and of course the requisite capital for this business is small.
It was my intention, after spending a few days at Detroit, to pursue my
tour through the wilderness, between the Lakes Huron and Michigan, as
far as {122} Michilimacinac; from thence across the North-West Territory
to the Falls of St. Anthony, and then to trace the Mississippi to
New-Orleans. Whilst at Detroit, however, I concluded to change, in some
measure, my course.
There was evidence of a hostile disposition on the part of the Indians
situated on my proposed route; the season of the year rendered
travelling in this direction almost impracticable; and my views and
business would not permit the delay which this last mentioned
circumstance would occasion.
Upon leaving Detroit I crossed Lake Erie in a small vessel, and arriving
at Presque Isle, pursued my course to New-Orleans, taking in my way all
the states and territories of the west.
It may not be amiss, before I notice my trip across the Lake, to
communicate some facts and reflections respecting the country above
Detroit, many of which facts I was enabled to obtain by my residence
there. Ere I speak upon this subject, however, I will, for a moment,
prolong my stay at this city.
The sufferings of this place during the late war, are scarcely
describable. The apprehension of death is far more terrible than actual
dissolution. After the capitulation of General Hull, Detroit was
thronged by Indians, and they were continually making the most
aggravating requisitions. These they enforced by savage threats. There
was not a moment of domestic peace for any one. The inhabitants did not
dare to fasten their doors: for if they did the Indians would cut them
to pieces with their tomahawks, and revenge the opposition upon the
inmates of the house. When families were about to sit down to their
tables, the Indians would come in, drive every one out of the room, and
feast themselves. Their constant demand, at every dwelling, was for
{123} whiskey; and to grant or refuse it was attended with great danger.
If it were granted, intoxication and consequent bloodshed would be the
effects; and upon a refusal, the Indians would present their long knives
and threaten immediate death.
A lady, who resided at Detroit whilst it was in possession of the
British, and who is remarkable for her good sense and intrepidity,
related to me the above and many other facts relative to this trying
state of things. She said, that upon one occasion several Indians came
to her house, and upon their approach it was thought advisable for her
husband to conceal himself in the garret. The Indians demanded whiskey
of her; and upon being told that there was none in the house, they
presented several knives to her breast, and in their rude English called
her a liar. Although in momentary expectation of death, she still denied
her having whiskey. Her husband, hearing the bustle below came down, and
with the assistance of two or three others, who accidentally came that
way, drave the Indians from the house. Immediate revenge was
anticipated. It was the practice of the Indians, particularly at this
time, to resent the smallest opposition. Supported by their civilized
patrons, they felt their consequence; and their pride was as easily
touched as that of a savageized Englishman. The house of the lady was
soon surrounded, and day after day the Indians came to search for her
husband; but not being able to find him, the object was, apparently,
abandoned.
Immediately after the massacre at the River Raisin, the inhabitants of
Detroit were called upon to witness a heart-rending scene. The Indians
from this field of carnage were continually arriving at the city, and
passing through its streets, with poles laden with reeking scalps.
I am here disposed to make a few remarks relative {124} to the late war.
I know that in so doing I shall incur censure; but I write for those who
are too noble to conceal their defeats, and too modest to proclaim their
victories. The genius, and energy, and resources of the United States
should have accomplished every thing.
I confess that I did not rejoice at the beams of peace. Premature peace
does not promote the cause of humanity. We declared war for the defence
of essential rights, which had, in the wantonness of power, been
repeatedly invaded. In this war we sought indemnity for the past, and
security for the future;—that security which punishment extorts from
injustice:—that security which the fine and the lash guarantees to
honest and peaceable communities. Did we effect our object? —Oh no!
Whatever may have been our victories, our defeats were disgraceful. The
administrators of the government were deficient in information, in
system, and in energy. They sought an effect without an adequate cause;
and the people sacrificed the glory of the country to the pride of
political competition. As to the opposition, they pursued false morals
until they lost sight of true patriotism.
There was virtue enough in the community; but affliction was necessary
to raise it from the ruins of thoughtless and passionate rivalry. We
were upon the eve of humiliation,—the eve of new, and omnipotent moral
impulse, when peace unexpectedly presented herself. Not the peace which
the victor magnanimously gives to the humbled foe, but that peace which
misguided apprehension yields to the dark calculations of policy. The
British Lion ceased to roar, and instead of contending until we had
pared his princely paws, we were ready to forgive and to embrace him.
Our own Eagle despised us; and with a fearless, anxious eye, and ruffled
plume, {125} retired to the elevated and gloomy promontory of her glory
and her disappointment.
It is the general opinion at Detroit, that Hull was prompted to
surrender the place, not by bribery, but by cowardice. Could he have
seen the dreadful and humiliating consequences which actually arose from
this base and unpardonable step, the suggestions of conscience would
have controuled his apprehensions, and his brave men would not have been
deprived of their fame. Indescribable must be the feelings of patriotism
and courage, when official cowardice yields them to a foe, whom their
hearts have already conquered. The brave man regards his friends and his
country a thousand times more than himself; and he would court a hundred
deaths rather than wound their feelings, or forfeit their love. In the
hour of danger, when the national flag is assailed, his soul tells him
that his countrymen will hear of this, and he dedicates himself to
battle, to glory, and to death! But I am sensible that there is a higher
principle: the man who fears no evil so much as self-reproach, will
always do his duty.
Immediately upon the capitulation of Hull, a Yankee soldier of the 4th
regiment thought it high time for him to take care of himself; and he
immediately devised a plan by which he hoped to outwit General Brock.
The soldier secretly left the fort, went to a barber and had his hair
and whiskers closely shaved; and then obtained from a tailor such
garments as were most fashionable for traders. After remaining about the
city for a few days, this citizen-soldier applied to the British General
for the necessary passes, stating that he had come to Detroit for the
purposes of trade, &c. The General kindly referred him to the proper
officer, his passes were promptly prepared, and he returned to his
friends.
{126} I will now commence my proposed excursion above Detroit.
The strait called the river Detroit becomes enlarged just above Hog
Island,[109] and forms Lake St. Clair. This lake is about twenty-five
miles in length. Its depth is inconsiderable. The principal islands in
it are Harsen’s, Hay, Peach, and Thompson’s. Formerly there were several
Indian tribes situated on the western side of this Lake; and the
Ontaonais[110] occupied the other side: but the Iroquois, a fierce,
bloody, and restless tribe, have long since dispossessed them.
The River St. Clair, between the lake of this name and Lake Huron,
receives the waters of the three vast Lakes beyond it. This river is
about forty miles long. The bed of the river is strait, contains many
islands, and its banks are covered with lofty trees. At the head of this
river is Fort St. Clair.[111]
The river Thames enters Lake St. Clair on the Canada side. On this river
is situated the Moravian village, where General Harrison routed the
British and Indians under Proctor and Tecumseh.[112] On this river too
is General Simcoe’s paper town called London.[113] Along the banks of
the Lake and river St. Clair, the country, generally, is fertile, and
pleasingly diversified. The sugar maple tree abounds here, and here too
are elegant forests of pine timber well calculated for the common
purposes of building, and also for spars. I may add, that on the banks
of the Thames are villages of the Delawares and Chippewas.[114] The
principal townships of the Six Nations are situated near the greatest
source of this river.
Before I leave Lake St. Clair, I must say a word respecting the old
veteran of this name.[115] It is indeed too late to do him justice:—he
no longer wants {127} the meat which perisheth. But we may spread
laurels upon his tomb; and soothe the spirit, which, perhaps, even now
hovers over its country, and seeks the fame which his merit achieved.
The mass of mankind judge of plans, and of their execution, not by their
abstract wisdom, or energy, but by their results. Many a man, however,
gains a victory by a blunder, and experiences defeat through the
instrumentality of his wisdom. Accident often settles the question; and
we may presume, that sometimes it is emphatically the will of Heaven,
that the strongest and wisest party should be overcome.
General St. Clair devoted his whole life to the art of war. He was a
scientific man, a man of talents, and always brave. His heart was formed
for friendship, and his manners were interesting. In many battles he
prevailed. In 1791 he was defeated.—So was Braddock, so was Harmer.
Indian warfare is full of stratagem and terror. Troops will not always
stand this test, and one man cannot effect every thing. General St.
Clair had to contend with even more formidable enemies:—with
misfortune,—with reproach,—with the ingratitude of his country. He
retired from an ignorant and uncharitable world to his favourite
Ridge.—Here he died. Who would not shun the thronged and splendid path
of the successful warrior, to bend over the lonely grave of the
venerable St. Clair!
Lake Huron is, excepting Lake Superior, the largest collection of fresh
water known to civilized man. Including the coasts of its bays its
circumference is upwards of one thousand miles. Its islands are very
numerous. The names of some of them are La Crose, Traverse, Whitewood,
Michilimackinac, Prince William, St. Joseph, and Thunder Bay. The island
of St. Joseph is upwards of one hundred miles in circumference, and
belongs to the English, who have a company stationed there.[116]
{128} On the American side of Lake Huron, and between it and Lake
Michigan the country is a perfect wilderness. The principal Indian
tribes situated in this tract are the Ootewas and Chippewas. The bay of
Saguina on this side of the lake, is eighteen miles in width, and in
length about forty-five miles. Two considerable rivers and several small
ones pass into this bay. The Bay of Thunder lies near the Straits of
Michilimackinac, is nine miles in width and very shallow. Here terrible
storms of thunder and lightning are frequently experienced.
On the Canada side of Lake Huron, from Lake St. Clair to the river
Severn, which passes near Lake Simcoe and enters the first mentioned
Lake, the country is but little known, and is covered with thick
forests. These forests reach far beyond the Severn, and indeed are
separated from the unexplored wilds, which probably extend to the
Pacific Ocean, only by the lakes, rivers, and portages which lie in the
track of the British Fur Companies. The rapids upon these rivers are
very numerous. The lakes too, in this part of the country, are numerous,
but small. The principal houses of the British Fur Companies are
established at the Lakes Abitibee, Waratouba, and Tamiscamine.[117] The
North-West Fur Company send every year from one hundred to one hundred
and fifty canoes, laden with merchandize, to their posts on Lake
Superior. These canoes are made of very light materials, generally of
birch, are flat on the bottom, round on the sides, and sharp at each
end. They carry about four tons each, and are conducted by about ten
persons. These boats generally move from Montreal about the beginning of
May. Before the canoes arrive at their place of destination, they are
repeatedly unladen and carried, together with their cargoes, across many
portages. The course is toilsome and perilous; but the prospect of {129}
gain, and the habit of enduring fatigue render the employment tolerable.
The principal food of the navigators is Indian meal and the fat of
bears. In the trade with the Indians, the beaver skin is the medium of
barter. Two beaver skins are equal to one otter skin; and ten of the
former are generally allowed for a common gun. Here is a profit of at
least 500 per cent, exclusive of all costs.
Michilimackinac is a small island situated in the upper part of Lake
Huron near the commencement of the strait which connects this Lake with
Lake Michigan.[118] The aspect of the island is elevated and irregular.
The fort of Michilimackinac is situated on this island, near to which
are several stores and dwelling houses. This is a very important post.
The strait and also the lakes which it connects abound with fine fish;
the principal kinds of which are herring, white fish, and trout. The
Michilimackinac trout are bred in Lake Michigan, and are celebrated for
their size and excellence; they sometimes weigh sixty or seventy pounds.
The strait of Michilimackinac is about fifteen miles in length. The
course of its current, into Huron or Michigan, depends upon the winds;
and is, therefore, very irregular. At times it is exceedingly rapid.
Lake Michigan is about two hundred and fifty miles in length. Its
breadth is about sixty miles. Including the curvatures of its bays, its
circumference is about nine hundred miles. There are a great many rivers
which rise in the peninsula between this Lake and Lake Huron, and which
pass into the latter. That part of this peninsula which lies along the
south-east of Lake Michigan is but little known. The names of the
principal rivers here are Marguerite, Grand, Black, and St. Joseph. The
latter is by far the largest, and may be ascended about one hundred
{130} and fifty miles. On this river is situated Fort Joseph.[119]
Green Bay, on the western border of Lake Michigan is about one hundred
miles in length; and its breadth, at its entrance, is about twenty-five
miles. It contains several islands; and there are in its vicinity tracts
of low and wet ground. At the bottom of the bay is a little fall,[120]
beyond which is a small lake called Winnebago. This lake receives Fox
river from the west. At the foot of this bay too, is a fort,[121] and on
the west of lake Winnebago is situated a village inhabited by Indians of
this name. On the Malhominis river, which flows into Green Bay, is also
situated an Indian village containing various tribes. The principal of
them are the Lake, Pouteoratamis, and Malhominis.[122] A few families of
the Nadonaicks, whose nation was nearly exterminated by the Iroquois,
reside here. The Puans once occupied the borders of this bay, and Puans
bay was originally its name. The Puans were fierce, and exceedingly
hostile to neighbouring tribes. At length these tribes combined against
them, and their numbers were greatly diminished.
Lake Michigan and Green Bay form a long point of land called Cape
Townsand. Between this Lake and Lake Winnebago are situated the Ootewas.
There are several rivers on the west of the last mentioned lake. One of
these is Chicago river, near to which is Fort Dearborn.[123] At Chicago
the United States have troops stationed.
Would to Heaven, that I could forever forget lake Michigan! Her envious
waves have, recently, buried a youth of noble promise. With melancholy
pride I remember, that whilst at Detroit, I numbered among my friends
the lamented Lieutenant Eveleth. He possessed a genius peculiarly
calculated for the engineer department, to which he belonged; {131} and
by his mild, yet manly deportment, inspired, even in strangers, both
esteem and affection. His countenance was martial; but with this aspect
was blended a sweetness of expression which is rarely witnessed.—
“Weep no more,” brother soldiers, “weep no more,
For Lycidas, your sorrow, is not dead,
Sunk though he be beneath the watery floor;
So sinks the day star in the ocean bed,
And yet anon repairs his drooping head,
And tricks his beams, and with new spangled ore
Flames in the forehead of the morning sky:
So Lycidas sunk low, but mounted high,
Through the dear might of Him who walk’d the wave.”
The tract of country lying between Lake Michigan and Lake Superior is
rather sterile. The falls of St. Mary, situated in the strait between
Lakes Huron and Superior, are mere cascades. In this strait there are
several islands. Below the falls is situated Fort St. Mary.[124] In this
strait are caught fine fish of many kinds. The Indian tribes, who have
heretofore occupied, and some of whom still occupy this part of the
country are the Nougua, Outchebous, Maramegs, Achiligonans, Amicours,
Missasangues, Hurons, Nepicrenians, Salteurs, Ontaouais, Amehouest and
Otters.[125] Many of these tribes are merged in others of them who have
been more powerful, or less unfortunate. The Iroquois, blood-thirsty and
incursive, scattered all these tribes, and nearly exterminated some of
them. There is, near the falls of St. Mary, a company of traders,
several houses, a manufactory, mills, &c. But the vicinity of this place
is a perfect wilderness.
Lake Superior is probably the largest collection of fresh water in the
world. It is but little known. Its circumference however, has been
ascertained to be about fifteen hundred miles. Storms frequently {132}
assail it; and a swell, like that of the ocean, dashes upon the high and
ragged rocks of its coasts. It contains many considerable islands and
bays, and the soil around it is far from being fertile. Some of the
islands are from fifty to one hundred miles in length. There are about
forty rivers, which pour their tribute into this vast lake, some of
which are of considerable magnitude. In the vicinity of the grand
portage,[126] between this lake and the Lake of the Woods, there are
established several trading companies. Lake Superior is well stored with
fish, the principal kinds of which are white fish, trout, and sturgeon.
The latter are of a very superior quality.
This lake is remarkable for the pure and pellucid appearance of its
water. The fish in it can be seen swimming at a great depth; and the
vessels upon it seem to move in air. These effects are, probably,
caused, in part, by the peculiar materials of the bed of the lake, and
partly by extraordinary evaporation. This last idea sanctions the
belief, that in this part of the country the quantity of rain is very
great. Some places in the neighbourhood of this Lake are swampy, and
some are elevated and fertile.
To the north and west of Lake Superior are several other lakes, the
principal of which are the Lake of the Woods, Rainy Lake, Bear Lake, and
Red Lake.[127]
Opposite to about the centre of Lake Superior, and on the river
Mississippi, are the falls of St. Anthony. This river, above the falls,
runs, principally, through Bear and Red Lake; one branch of it, however,
runs below them pretty much in the direction of the Missouri River. Both
below and above the falls of St. Anthony an almost innumerable number of
rivers pour their waters into the Mississippi, some of which are several
thousand miles in length. The Missouri is the principal source of {133}
the Mississippi, and the latter name ought to be substituted for that of
the former. Between the cascades of St. Mary, and the falls last
mentioned, lies the North-West Territory.[128]
The Indians, in the north and west, are generally fierce and untameable.
They are so attached to the hunter state, that here they are somewhat
industrious; but in every other occupation they evince great
characteristic indolence. Some of the tribes are politic in all their
proceedings; and husband their property and strength. Others, however,
are regardless of the future, and look only to the present moment. All
are degenerating, in a greater or less degree, and some, through the
operation of ordinary causes, are becoming extinct.