distance of about one hundred miles, and then branches to the right and
left; one of which branches proceeds in the direction of the sources of
the Illinois river, and within about fifteen miles of St. Joseph’s
river, which enters Lake Michigan; and the other in that of those of the
Great Miami river. Between a minor branch of the Miami of the Lake and
the Great Miami there is a portage of five miles. The name of one of the
first mentioned branches is St. Mary, and constitutes the river of this
name. On this river is situated Fort Adams; and about half way between
Fort Wayne and Miami Bay is Fort Defiance.[97] The navigation of the
main stream, for vessels, extends only a short distance above Fort
Meigs; and from this place to Miami Bay the distance is eighteen miles.
Near this Bay is Fort Miami, which was built by the British in 1794.[98]
About fifteen miles beyond the Miami of the Lake, is the line between
the State of Ohio and Michigan territory.
For twenty miles west of this river there are some rises of land, the
soil of which is light, and the growth of timber upon them is
principally white oak. In travelling this distance I crossed several
creeks, with much difficulty and hazard. Up and down the bank of one of
them I marched for hours before I could find a single tree or log to
float upon. Just before reaching this creek a bear crossed my path; but
having no dogs I could not overtake him.
Soon after leaving the last mentioned creek, {108} arrived at another,
which furnished more means of crossing, but in the employment of which
there was the greatest peril. A tree lay part of the way across the
channel of the creek with its top towards me; but being very large its
trunk had sunk far below the surface of the current, so that I could
walk only on its crooked branches. Having my gun too, I could employ but
one hand in supporting myself, and sometimes could reach no limb for the
employment even of that. After crossing a part of the channel, I found
the large end of the tree several feet below the surface of the water;
and it was disposed to sink further. At the distance of several feet
from the end of it was a high stump; and from this to the shore there
was a space of water a few feet in depth. I could take no other course
than to note the direction and extent of the body of the tree, walk
quickly to its end, spring to the stump, and from that to the shore. I
effected my object; but was never more sensible of the protecting hand
of Providence. The water of the creek was exceedingly cold, and the
chill of evening was approaching.
It was now the 17th of March, the ground was frozen, and the travelling
very rough and painful. In the forenoon I passed the Bay Settlement.[99]
This place contains several scattering houses, which are occupied
principally by French people; and the aspect of the whole country is
that of an illimitable marsh. Some parts of this tract of prairie are
too wet for cultivation. A few miles east of the Bay there are several
rises of land, the soil of which is light and well adapted to the
cultivation of wheat.
Towards evening I reached the River Raisin. At the distance of a few
miles east of it, I entered the Military Road, of which the public
papers have spoken, and which leads to the old roads in the vicinity of
Detroit.[100] This road is cut through a perfect wilderness {109} of a
large growth of timber. It is very wide, and entirely free from stumps.
The plan of it, and the manner in which the work has been executed,
speak favourably of the judgment and fidelity of the military
department.
The travelling on this road is, in the spring of the year, very heavy;
and a person on foot is much annoyed by the sharp points of bushes which
are concealed by the mud.
At the commencement of the road the country becomes rather elevated, is
highly fertile, is covered with a superb growth of timber, and is
intersected with streams well calculated for mills.
On the River Raisin stands Frenchtown, an ancient and considerable
settlement.[101] The inhabitants on the river are principally French;
but the American population is rapidly increasing. The soil here is of
an excellent quality, and in high repute. The river, at the settlement,
is about sixty rods wide, and it is navigable to Lake Erie, a distance
of about twelve miles. The river has been explored for about seventy
miles above Frenchtown; and beyond this distance the country is but
little known. The land above the settlement is said to be even better
than in its immediate vicinity. The name of the river comports well with
the nature of the soil; it may be rendered, in English, river of grapes.
I approached this river with a light step and a heavy heart. Hundreds of
my gallant countrymen had there fallen victims to British barbarity. Who
has heard without horror, of the massacre at the River Raisin![102] When
I arrived at this bloody field, the snow had left the hillocks, and the
grass began to vegetate upon the soldier’s grave. The sun was setting in
sadness, and seemed not yet to have left off his weeds. The wind from
the north, crossing {110} the icy vales, rebuked the unconscious spring;
and the floating ice, striking against the banks of the river, spake of
the warrior souls, pressing for waftage across the gulph of death.
In speaking of our too general employment of militia, I suggested, that
in another place I should offer some reflections upon the subject of
war.
Nothing but the influence of example, and the ability of the human mind
readily to accustom itself to crime and carnage, prevents us from being
shocked by sanguinary contests between civilized communities. How
astonishing is it, that nations, acquainted with the feelings and
principles of humanity, instructed by the precepts and example of the
Prince of Peace, and living in the hopes of Heaven, should send armies
into the field to butcher each other! The practice is indeed a disgrace
to human nature; and the mournful consequences of it must make the
Angels weep. How often has the hostile foot suddenly assailed the ear of
apprehension! How often has war driven man from his home, and blasted
forever his plans of domestic happiness! How often is the wife called
upon to mourn her husband slain!—The father his son, the pride and the
glory of his old age!—The son his father, the instructor and the guide
of his youth!—The brother, his brother of love!—And the maiden, the
blooming youth,—the secret joy of her soul!
A state of war is demoralizing in many points of view. It opens a wide
door to selfish ambition,—to intrigue, avarice, and to all their
concomitant crimes. A habit of engaging in war is very soon acquired;
and then the feelings, and pecuniary interests of a considerable portion
of the community, renders, to them, such a state desirable. Under such a
state of things, the defence of national liberty is often the insincere
apology for invasion; and the splendour {111} of military parade,
captivating the heart, darkens the understanding, and silences the voice
of conscience. The true nature of freedom is here overlooked; passion
supplies the place of reason; and false glory is substituted for
national respectability. Upon these grounds, the eclat of military
achievements undermines the virtue of the state, and military tyranny
usurps the place of rational government.
The evil effects of war are incalculable. They continue to operate for
ages, and materially affect the ultimate destinies of nations. War,
however, is sometimes necessary: but self defence,—in the largest sense
of the phrase; self defence, both at home and on Nature’s Commons;—self
defence directly and indirectly, is the only ground upon which it should
be waged. Here Heaven will always smile, and freemen always conquer.
On the 18th and 19th of March I passed the battle grounds of Brownstown
and Magagua.[103] Near the former place Major Vanhorn, commanding a
detachment of one hundred and fifty men, was suddenly attacked, on all
sides, by British regulars and Indians. The Americans made a spirited
resistance, and after suffering severely effected a retreat. Soon after
this affair another detachment, under Lieutenant Colonel Miller,
consisting of three hundred of the veteran 4th regiment, and also about
two hundred militia, were sent to accomplish the object of Vanhorn’s
march, which was to support Capt. Brush, who was encamped at the River
Raisin, and who was destined for Detroit with provisions for our army
then in possession of Sandwich. The enemy anticipating another attempt
to accomplish the object, immediately obtained reinforcements, and lay
in ambush near the former battle ground. The Indians were commanded by
Tecumseh; and the combined forces amounted to about seven hundred and
fifty men.
{112} Colonel Miller, although he proceeded with caution, experienced a
sudden attack. Perhaps there never was one more furious; or the
resistance to which evinced in a greater degree the characteristic union
and firmness of disciplined troops.
On the right of the Americans there was a dark wood, and on their left
was a small prairie across which was an eminence covered with trees and
bushes. In the wood, on the right, the Indians lay in ambush, with a
breastwork between them and the Americans. On the small height, on the
left, there was stationed a detachment of Indians; and the British
regulars occupied other favourable positions. The onset was tremendous.
The veteran Miller immediately extended his lines, to avoid being
outflanked, ordered a detachment to dislodge the enemy on his left,
opened a brisk fire upon the main body of the assailants, and then drove
them at the point of the bayonet. At the same time, the enemy was driven
from the height in a most prompt and gallant manner. The British
regulars retreated; but the Indians still obstinately contended from
behind the scattering trees. The regulars, in the mean time, were
rallied; and the battle became more general, and more equally
maintained. At this eventful moment, the mighty, yet cheering voice of
the intrepid Miller, like the roar of a torrent echoing from a thousand
hills, inspired with a new impulse his faithful,—generous troops.—In one
moment the victory was ours. Early in the engagement, the veteran
Colonel was, accidentally, thrown from his horse; and some suppose, that
they can still see upon the ground the impression of his gigantic form.
In examining this interesting battle ground, I found, by the numerous
scars on the trees under which the Americans fought, that the enemy made
a great many random shot. It is to be presumed, {113} that soldiers
generally fire too high, especially when the object is at a considerable
distance; not considering that a ball, in its passage, describes a
circular line. Every soldier should be acquainted with the most simple
principles of enginery; and he should practice upon those principles,
for the purpose of ascertaining their relative influence upon the
character of his piece. General Wayne seemed to be aware that soldiers
are apt to fire too high. He was often heard to say to his troops, in
battle:—“Shin them my brave boys!—shin them!”
In passing the battle grounds all was silence. Not a leaf was in motion.
The misty air seemed conscious that here was the place of graves; and no
sound was heard but the footsteps of the stranger who had come to
rejoice and to mourn.
Before leaving these interesting, yet melancholy scenes, I may add, that
where one is acquainted with the particulars of an engagement, he can
view, with much gratification, the positions which the parties occupied,
and draw, from their influences upon the result, important lessons equal
to those of actual experience.
From the River Raisin to Brownstown the land is highly valuable, and
presents some fine scites for farms. The soil is rugged and rich, the
timber upon it lofty and elegant, and the streams remarkably well
calculated for manufacturing purposes. In viewing these fine tracts I
could not but pity those poor fellows whom I have often seen settled
upon a barren and rocky soil, scarcely fit for the pasturage of sheep.
Unacquainted with the quality of land, and yet devoted to the employment
of agriculture, they still cleave to their possessions, which instead of
enriching them, will break down their constitutions with labour, and
keep them poor all their days. Such persons, however, need not leave the
land of {114} their birth and the society of their friends. Let them
still employ their industry at home; not upon a less thankless soil.
From Brownstown to Detroit the land is diversified with small meadows
and fertile eminences. Here there is a beautiful view of the river
Detroit. The rises of land consist of a rich black mould, upon a
limestone bottom. At the foot of them there are fine springs, and on
their summits a good growth of hard wood.
The day after leaving Magagua I arrived at Detroit, to which place I had
long looked for that rest and those comforts, which would enable me to
make new exertions. In marching to this place I was constantly employed,
with the exception of one day, for seven weeks. The distance from
New-Hampshire to Detroit, by the rout which I took, is about one
thousand miles. Ere I reached the city my clothes became much torn, and
in going through the bushes my eyes were greatly injured. Within one
hundred miles east of Detroit, I crossed upwards of thirty rivers and
creeks.
The prospect in approaching this place is picturesque and interesting.
At the distance of several miles, the traveller, in moving along the
western bank of the river, sees several large buildings, and several
windmills in the town of Sandwich. This place is very considerable, and
is situated on the Canada side of the river, opposite Detroit. The
general appearance of this part of the country is truly European.
The city of Detroit is very beautifully situated.[104] Its principal
street and buildings are upon a bend of the river, of a mile or two in
length, and they occupy the whole extent of it. The bend forms a
semi-circle, and the banks of it are gently sloping. The houses and
stores are near the summit of the bank, {115} and the slopes form
pleasant grounds for gardening. The streets intersect each other at
right angles, and the situation is calculated for a large and elegant
city. The Fort and Cantonment lie about forty rods west of the main
street. From this street a spacious gate opens to them, and at a little
distance from it, the road forks and leads to them respectively. The
contrast between the numerous white buildings in both of these places,
and the green grass contiguous to and around them is very pleasant. A
stranger, in visiting the Fort and Cantonment, is agreeably impressed
with the neatness of their appearance, and with the order and discipline
which are maintained there among the troops. The apartments of the
officers too present a studious and scientific aspect; and seem to
warrant the idea, that in the officers of our army are united the
character of the well informed gentleman, and intrepid soldier. This
military post is a very important and responsible station; and the
government has made for it a very judicious selection of officers.
Several of these officers are of the veteran 4th regiment; and others of
them have seen the darkened sky red-hot with battle.
On the evening of my arrival at Detroit, I addressed the following note
to Governor Cass: “A gentleman from New-Hampshire wishes for the
privilege of introducing himself to Governor Cass. He is upon a
pedestrious tour, and therefore trusts, that the roughness of his garb
will not preclude him from the honour of an interview. March 20th,
1818.” The Governor replied with his compliments and with the request
that I would call upon him the next morning at 9 o’clock. At the time
appointed I waited upon him, and was received with that unaffected
friendliness and manner, which so well comports with the institutions of
the country.
{116} Governor Cass,[105] who is the Supreme Executive magistrate of the
Michigan Territory, resides just below the Cantonment; and General
Macomb[106] occupies an elegant brick house, erected by General Hull,
situated at the upper end of the street. The former is remarkably well
calculated for the Governor of a frontier Territory: in him are united
the civilian and the warrior. Governor Cass lives in an unostentatious
style; his aspect evinces benevolence; his disposition is social, and
his manners are plain.
The style in which General Macomb lives is at once elegant and becoming.
His military reputation is well known; and in private life he is
conspicuous for affability, politeness and attention to strangers.
Soon after entering Detroit, I met with a trifling incident, which
interested me by exciting my curiosity. Among a crowd of gazers here, I
saw a face which I remembered to have known a great while before; but
where, I could not tell. How astonishingly impressive is the expression
of the human countenance! The next day the man passed the Hotel where I
sojourned, and I took the liberty to invite him in. Twenty years had
elapsed since I had last seen him; and then we were mere children,
pronouncing in the same class our A, B, C.
A considerable part of the population of Detroit are French; but the
number of Americans there, is daily increasing, and will soon become
very numerous. The Government warehouse here is very large, and the
Government wharf is long and commodious. There are several other wharves
at Detroit, and the vessels lying at them make a pleasant appearance.
From the lower part of the town the view, up the river, is remarkably
fine. Here one may see, for the distance of four miles, a beautiful
expanse of water, several islands almost lost to vision, and near {117}
them, on a point of land, several large windmills. The river itself
yields to none in point of utility and beauty. Opposite to Detroit it is
about one mile wide, and its current moves about three miles an hour.
The whole length of the river is thirty miles; and from Detroit to Lake
St. Clair the distance is nine miles.
In Detroit there is much good society; and hospitality is a conspicuous
trait in the character of the people. The Lyceum established here is
patronized by the principal men in the place; and those who take a part
in its discussions display extensive information, much correct
reasoning, and no little eloquence. There is also an Academy in this
place; and it is superintended by the learned Mr. Monteith. In time,
this city will become conspicuous for its literature, and for the
propriety of its customs and manners. In relation to politics, it will
take, in some respects, a new course; and in this particular be an
example worthy of imitation. In point too of municipal regulation and
statutary rule, the Michigan Territory will be eminently correct. There
is no state or territory in the union, which merits so much attention on
the part of the General Government as the Michigan Territory. In the
vicinity of Detroit there is, for the distance of thirty miles, only the
width of the river of this name between the United States and Upper
Canada; and above Lake St. Clair, there is between the two countries
only the width of the river St. Clair for the distance of forty miles.
It will be of great consequence, in a national point of view, to have
the systems of education, laws, customs, and manners, of the Territory
such as to outweigh the counter influence of those of the British in its
neighbourhood. As to the population of this territory, the General
Government will do well to afford every facility and encouragement to
{118} its increase. By increasing the strength of our frontier
settlements, we shall lessen the influence of the British Government
over the savages of the west, and be able to meet their incursions more
promptly, and with greater effect.
At Detroit there is a theatre; and it is under the exclusive management
of the military officers stationed there. These gentlemen, actuated by
liberal and polished views, have erected a stage for the gratuitous
instruction and amusement of the public. The scenery of the stage is
executed with an appropriate taste, the dramatic pieces are selected
with judgment and delicacy, and the performances are quite equal to any
in the country. Indeed the officers of our army, at Detroit, possess
much genius and erudition; and the correctness of their conduct, in
point of morals and manners, entitle them to much praise.
The state of agriculture in the Michigan Territory is far from
flourishing. In the immediate vicinity of Detroit it is deplorable. The
French have no ambition to excel in this honourable and profitable
calling. There is here, however, every thing to encourage an active
husbandman. The soil is fertile and the climate perfectly congenial to
the growth of New-England productions. A yankee farmer, carrying with
him to this place his knowledge of agriculture, and his industry, might
soon acquire a very handsome estate. The market for country produce in
Detroit is always high; and large sums of money are annually paid there
for provisions, which are transported across the lake from the upper
parts of the states of New-York, Pennsylvania, and Ohio.
The inhabitants of Detroit, wishing to keep their money in circulation
among themselves, and also wishing to see their own agriculture
improving, {119} would afford great encouragement to farmers who should
settle in their vicinity. Here too all mechanical trades would be
promptly patronized. Various articles of American manufacture are sent
to this place from the city of New-York, and meet here a market
affording great profits. Joiners, brick makers, shoe makers, and almost
all other mechanics would here find ample patronage. Day labourers too,
would obtain here ready employment and good wages. I may add, that
lumber and wood are remarkably high in this city; and that wood sellers
and lumber dealers might here realize from these occupations very
handsome profits.
I deem it my duty to express a high opinion of the Michigan Territory,
because facts warrant such a course, and it is important that those of
my fellow-citizens, who may be disposed to emigrate to the west, should
possess every information upon the subject. No one need suppose my
declarations to be those of a land speculator. I have not the most
remote relation to such business, and never expect to have.
In travelling more than four thousand miles, in the western parts of the
United States, I met no tract of country which, upon the whole,
impressed my mind so favourably as the Michigan Territory. Erroneous
ideas have heretofore been entertained respecting this territory. Indeed
it has, until lately, been viewed as scarcely within the jurisdiction of
the United States. Even some late geographers seem to have collected no
other information respecting it, than what had been written by their
ancient predecessors. Some of this information, especially as it
respects Detroit, does not apply to the present times.
The soil of this territory is generally fertile, and a considerable
proportion of it is very rich. Its {120} climate is delightful; and its
situation novel and interesting. As to the former, it possesses a good
medium between our extreme northern and southern latitudes; and with
respect to the latter it is almost encircled by the Lakes Erie, St.
Clair, Huron, and Michigan. New-England fruits may here be produced in
great perfection; and the territory is capable of being rendered a great
cider country. In point of health too, this territory yields to no part
of North America. There is no place in the world more healthy than the
city of Detroit. Consumptions are never known there.
The situation of this city, although level, is very commanding. On the
Ohio the view of the traveller is confined; but here one appears lifted
above the adjacent country, and may survey it as from an eminence.