under General Wayne, during his famous expedition against the
indians.[50] From this gentleman I obtained many interesting facts; and
spent a pleasant evening in conversing with him upon the subject of
expatriation. This subject involves an abstract question of principle;
and should be settled by the United States without the least reference
to the opinion of civilians, or the practice of other nations. It is
humiliating to see with what reverence we turn in relation to this
subject, to the opinion of Blackstone, and to the contradictory
positions of the British Government. The United States is the place,
above all others, for correct opinions, upon questions involved in the
great science of morals, as far as it respects the natural rights of
individuals, the necessary modification of those rights in civil
society, and the rights of nations as collective moral agents. Europe
ever has been, {25} and still is a school of wrong; and those who are
instructed by her participate in the sophistry of her reasoning, the
tyranny of her views, and the inconsistency of her practice. The
question of expatriation, is a question involving individual right, for
the defence of which the aggregate strength of the whole community is
guaranteed. This question, in the United States, arises from the claims
of other nations to those of their subjects, who have left the territory
to which they belonged without violating any municipal law upon the
subject. The United States should protect all within her jurisdiction,
whether upon her territory or under her flag, unless some municipal
regulation of the adverse party in the question, shall have rendered the
individual concerned incapable of acquiring the right to protection from
the defending power. These principles should be adhered to for three
reasons: the United States have a right to do so; they are bound by the
civil compact, which renders protection and obedience inseparable, to do
so; and it is their duty as a collective moral being to guard any
individual, not under the jurisdiction of another sovereignty, from
arbitrary power.
Such a course is dictated by the eternal and omnipotent principles of
justice; and therefore no law of nations, which is a rule created or
supposed by man, can resist them. Even that law which civilians call the
voluntary law of nations, cannot, in relation to this subject, exonerate
a government from those obligations which result from the social
compact; because the question is grounded in the very germ of civil
society; and the welfare of the whole community of nations, so far from
requiring in this case an adherence to this law, renders it, upon its
own principles, entirely inoperative.
{26} The internal law of nations does not militate with the above
principles, because it requires only what is fair and conscientious. The
customary law of nations must yield to those older and better rules
which are dictated by justice. And as to the conventional law of
nations, it rests upon the terms of contracts in subordination to
previously existing and indispensable duties.
On the 12th of February I passed through Guelderland, Princeton,
Schoharie, and Carlisle; and on the following day through Sharon, Cherry
Valley, and Warren.[51] Schoharie is one of the wealthiest inland
farming towns in the state of N. York.
The weather still continued remarkably severe; but my dress was so
comfortable, that I had no occasion for a fire.
During my whole tour through the settled parts of the country, I found a
constant source of amusement in the curiosity and variety of
observation, which my appearance excited. I must, however, confess that
I often wished myself less conspicuous.
It is in the moment of surprise that the human character most fully
developes itself; and in travelling, during the constant operation of
this cause, one may acquire much knowledge of the almost infinite
variety of disposition which exists among mankind. I met, in my course,
with every shade of character, from the man of reading to the totally
ignorant; and from the real gentleman to the rude and vulgar.
It may amuse a portion of my readers to know some of the various
impressions which were made by my appearance, and the receptions which I
experienced.
People seldom knew from whence I came, or what was my place of
destination; and surprise and speculation were universal. Speculation
was as various {27} as the dispositions and capacities of
individuals.—Some honoured me with the idea that I was Bonaparte in
disguise; and some secretly suggested that I was a Wizard:—
“Who prowl’d the country far and near,
Bewitch’d the children of the peasants,
Dry’d up the cows, and lam’d the deer,
And suck’d the eggs, and kill’d the pheasants.”
Some too, imagined me an Icelander; and some a British Spy. A few
treated me with rudeness, many in a very gentlemanly manner, and some,
not knowing what to make of my appearance, conferred upon me the title
of General, and invited me to drink with them.
With respect to the first class, I made a point of taking no notice of
them, when I could with propriety avoid it; but when I could not, I
always made an example of them upon the spot. Such men seldom possess
even animal courage; and there are very few, even of their associates,
who are not pleased to see them punished.
I may here observe, that I was impressed by the general ignorance, with
respect to the manners and customs of other nations, which appeared to
exist in the civilized places through which I passed; and especially in
and about Albany.
It is well known, that in Russia and many other countries in the north
of Europe, people generally dress, more or less, in furs; and there are
some instances of such a practice, even in the Canadas.—These facts,
connected with the severity of the weather which prevailed during the
early stages of my tour, might, one would think, have rendered a suit of
fur a less general object of surprise. Severe as our winters are, I
think a garment or two of Buffalo or some other warm skin, to be worn
occasionally, {28} would, to say nothing of comfort, save many a man
from rheumatism, and even from being frozen to death. It is only a year
or two, since the stage driver from Albany to Bennington, froze and fell
from his seat. The passengers were not apprized of the event, until the
horses had proceeded several miles. The power of frost upon human life
is astonishing. In an unsuspecting moment the blood chills in the veins
and ceases to move. The memorable winter of 1709 saw two thousand men,
under the celebrated Charles the XIIth, fall dead with cold in one day.
Many other similar instances might be mentioned. As to Charles, however,
he had, by habit, rendered himself almost superhuman. His person was as
invulnerable to the frosts of Denieper, as was his mind to the
misfortunes which finally made him a prisoner at Bender.[52]
On the evening of the 14th of February I had passed Otsego, Richfield,
&c. and arrived at Plainfield. The towns between Albany and the last
mentioned place are generally inconsiderable, and offer no interesting
materials. They are, however, flourishing villages. During the whole of
the 14th instant it snowed, and the travelling was very heavy. The
general aspect of this part of the country is rather level than
otherwise; there are here, however, many high and long hills. I had not
yet ceased to be vulnerable to fatigue; but hardships had, in a measure,
become familiar to me. I do not pretend that I did not sometimes stand
in need of resolution; but men have only to move on, and difficulties
become less. It is in looking ahead at the aggregate obstacles which
present themselves in an undertaking, and in embodying them, as it were,
in the space of a moment, that one’s mind is appalled. By meeting these
obstacles in detail, we easily overcome {29} them; and then look back
astonished at our apprehensions.
The Dutch mode of building, both with respect to their houses and barns,
is visible in every part of the state of New-York; but American manners
and customs are here absorbing all others.
The interior of this state, like that of New-Hampshire and Vermont,
presents many small and ill contrived log huts; and those who have been
unaccustomed to seeing such, would be surprised to find how comfortably
people may live in them. These huts are sometimes without a floor, and
have wooden chimnies. Men who are acquainted only with polished life,
would tremble at the idea of spending their days in one of these
buildings; yet, they are generally the abode of virtue, health and
happiness.
On the 15th and 16th of February I passed through Eaton, Nelson,
Casnove, Pompey and Manlius. The weather was very severe, the snow deep,
and continually blowing. At Pompey I was so beset by ignorant
impertinence and loquacious curiosity, that I found it necessary to
harrangue the multitude. Having laid down for them some salutary rules
upon the subject of manners, and taking their silence for an apology, I
proceeded to Manlius.
Even in this part of the country, bears, wolves, and deer are numerous.
During the preceding fall the depredations of the two former were very
great; and the bounty offered for wolves, by some of the counties in the
state, was ninety dollars.
During the 17th the weather was still severe and the wind high. I passed
Onondago[53] and Marcellus. Throughout these townships there are high
and low hills. Owing to them, and to the depth of snow, my fatigue was
great. My health also had suffered by many days and nights of severe
tooth-ache. In {30} passing through these and many other places, I
experienced attentions from people of consideration; and was frequently
introduced to their families.
Onondago was formerly the chief town of the Six Nations; and lies on the
south of the lake of that name. This lake is sometimes called salt lake;
and the springs near its shores produce immense quantities of salt. The
Onondago Indians reside near this lake; but their numbers are
diminishing.
During the 18th, 19th and 20th of February I travelled through Brutus,
Aurelius, Auburn, Cayuga, Junius, and Waterloo.[54] The weather in this
part of the country had been for several days, and still was colder than
had been before known there. The snow likewise was remarkably deep.
Cayuga Lake is about forty miles in length, and from two to four miles
broad. The famous bridge across it is more than one mile in length. On
the banks of this lake the Cayuga Indians reside.
The Six Nations of Indians above mentioned are the Mohawks, Oneidas,
Onondagoes, Senecas, Cayugas and Tuscaroras. The Stockbridge and
Brotherton Indians now live with the united tribes.[55] Notwithstanding
these, and many other tribes are still in possession of vast tracts of
land, and receive annually considerable sums from the United States, and
also from individual states, they are occasionally emigrating to the
wildernesses of Canada. Still wild and untameable, the surrounding
aspect of civilization alarms them; and they silence the suggestions of
jealousy by removing to pathless and illimitable forests.
Many of the villages on the Western Turnpike have made their appearance
within a very few years; and the vast resources of the interior of the
state of New-York are daily developing.
{31} During this part of my tour a little incident occurred, which
resulted so pleasantly, and so fully evinced the policy as well as
propriety of a certain course of conduct, that I am induced to mention
it. In one of the last named towns, I was, whilst at a public house,
furiously assailed by words and threats, by a man, who evidently had
been of considerable consideration in society, but who had become a sot,
and was at this time much intoxicated. As he was not in a situation to
defend himself, there could have been no display of true courage in
punishing him; and besides, he was already an object of pity. To his
imbecile fury, therefore, I presented only a steady eye. He drew back.
In a few minutes, however, he made another assault; and again yielded to
a firm and silent aspect. A few hours after I met him in another place.
His inebriety had, in a great measure, left him; he was very sorry for
his conduct, and expressed towards me much good will.
I have observed, that I was seldom known; and as I appeared to be a
person travelling in disguise, some pains were taken to ascertain who I
was. The suggestions respecting me were very numerous; and a great many
bets were made, and many expedients resorted to in relation to my
origin, destination, and business. Some imagined me to be upon a secret
expedition for the government. My manners seldom comporting with my mode
of living, the multitude were at a loss to know to what class in society
I belonged. They heard me converse like other people; but seldom saw me
eat or drink, and were surprised to view me sleeping with my dogs upon
the bare floor.
In my course through the upper part of the state of New-York, I spent
many a pleasant evening, surrounded by a great variety of character, and
seated {32} by a huge western fire. During these seasons some political
question would often arise, and it was interesting to witness the
debates. Upon one occasion a serious legal question, long agitated in
the neighbourhood, was introduced; and being a limb of the law, I
involuntarily made an observation upon it. Bets soon began to run high,
and the Pedestrian was appointed umpire.
It is unpleasant for one to speak of himself.—Many anecdotes, which
would be interesting to my friends, must be omitted.
In the course of a few days after leaving Waterloo, I passed through
many towns, the principal of which are Romulus, Ovid, Hector, Ulysses,
and Geneva; also Canandaigua, the two Bloomfields and Lima; and in
addition to these Avon, Caledonia and Batavia.[56] Some of these towns,
especially the two Bloomfields and Lima, constitute a remarkably
handsome and rich tract of country.
Canandaigua is situated at the north of the lake of this name; and many
of the buildings of this place are large and elegant. The lake is about
eighteen or twenty miles long, and two or three miles broad.
But it would have been in order first to speak of Seneca lake, which
lies east of lake Canandaigua. Seneca lake is about thirty-five miles
long, and about two miles wide. The numerous lakes in the interior of
the state of New-York, are admirably calculated to promote her inland
commerce. Whilst they furnish by their numbers, and their positions the
means of connecting her resources, and promoting the trade and
intercourse of her people, they are not so large as to occupy an
unnecessary portion of her territory. Every thing, in relation to
New-York, is conspiring to render her a wonderfully powerful State.
{33} Whilst in Canandaigua the court was sitting; and owing to some
novel proceedings there, one or two thousand people were assembled.
After pressing through the crowd, and obtaining some information
respecting my course, I proceeded on my way.
Not long after I formed a particular acquaintance with Doctor S. He
introduced me to his family, and entertained me in a very hospitable and
friendly manner. The Doctor, being no less fond of an innocent joke than
he was conspicuous for his good sense and benevolence, proposed in the
course of the evening, his introducing me to a shrewd old neighbour of
his, as a relation who lived on some far distant mountain, and who had
been long absent. I readily assented to the proposition, and we both
agreed upon the parts which we were to act. Owing, however, to an
unnatural performance on my part, or to some other cause, the neighbour
detected the deception. But the assay resulted in considerable
amusement; and after drinking to the health of each other, the Doctor
and myself left the old gentleman to exult in his penetration.
At 3 o’clock the next morning, I was awakened by the rich and lofty
notes of the bugle-horn, and entertained by several superb martial
songs. At daylight we sat down to a good breakfast; and immediately
after I resumed my march.
Amidst all these pleasant circumstances, my dogs had accidentally been
neglected; and seeing their master fare so well, they at length took the
liberty to help themselves. The larder of Mrs. S. being open, they
espied there a large pan of baked pork and beans; and without
ceremony,—or knife and fork divided the former between them; leaving the
beans for those who were less carnivorous. After this broad hint on
their part, the lady of the house fed them to their heart’s content.
{34} During my tour, thus far, I formed many valuable acquaintances.
Here I may remark that from Albany to the remote interior of New-York,
there is, generally speaking, but little hospitality; and the love of
money there displays itself in the high prices which are charged for
provisions. Immense profits are realized by the retailer at the expense
of the traveller. I have always noticed in my travels, that the newer a
settlement is, the more prevalent is hospitality. This great virtue is
much more conspicuous among the poor, than among those who possess more
than a competency. Here avarice begins its reign; and every virtue is
blasted by its poisonous influence.
In this part of the country, and in many other places I often found it
convenient to stop at the log huts of poor emigrants. From the inmates
of these huts I always experienced a kind and generous welcome; and in
almost every case I ascertained that they were from New-Hampshire or
Vermont.—They would generally refuse to take any compensation for their
services; and were so afraid of violating the sacred principles of
hospitality, that I could only leave my money upon their table, or cast
it as a play thing to their children. Oh! how many tutelary angels
shield the cot of the poor and virtuous man, whilst the splendid
habitations of the rich and dissipated, receive only the averted eye of
offended Heaven.
I have omitted to mention, that whilst in Albany I was informed that
robberies had been frequently committed on the Western Turnpike. This
information appeared peculiarly important, on account of the frequent
suggestions of people that I probably had with me a large sum of money.
Besides, war, which always produces a greater or less number of
abandoned and desperate characters, having {35} recently ceased, and
there being many dark and solitary tracts of wood on the turnpike, I
thought there was much cause for apprehension. I had, however,
previously concealed my money in different parts of my cloaths, and was
careful to keep my arms in a state of preparation. Fortunately I met
with no attack. The appearance of my arms, and the apparent fierceness
of my dogs, were, probably, preventatives.
I was frequently told too, that owing to my mode of dress, there would
be much danger of my being shot by the hunters in passing through the
bushes. Many accidents, sanctioning the idea, had from time to time
occurred. A hunter, not long before, had killed a deer, and throwing it
upon his shoulder was proceeding home. Another hunter, having an obscure
view of the deer through the bushes, fired and killed the man. I did
not, however, experience any injury from this quarter.
Such was the depth of snow and such the severity of the weather during
the first month of my tour, that no game was to be found in the woods
excepting a few squirrels; and those only during a momentary sunshine.
Numerous as had been the beasts of prey throughout the preceding fall,
they seemed now to be waiting in their dens for the storms to be
overpassed. All nature appeared to be congealed; and the tyrant winter
presented an unrelenting aspect.
In the remote parts of the State of New-York provisions were scarce.
There are so many emigrants travelling and settling in that quarter
during winter, that want is frequently the consequence.—The emigrants,
who settle during that season of the year, must be fed, for many months,
from the common stock of provisions, before they can, by their labour,
add to it. Some of them have money, but {36} money will not save them
from want. Here we see the importance of the agricultural interest, and,
generally, of the productive power of labour. Agriculture and domestic
manufactures will render a people perfectly independent. Money is of no
real consequence excepting when employed as a circulating medium; fancy
however has cherished for it an irrational partiality. Thank Heaven! we
have no considerable mines of silver and gold to corrupt our country;
but plenty of iron to plough her fields and to defend her liberties.
Agriculture is the most natural, necessary, and honourable employment of
man. Ignorant pride and vain folly may represent it as derogatory; but
in so doing they show how very far they are from true greatness.
Agriculture furnishes for vigorous constitutions the most salutary
exercise; and here the brightest geniuses may find ample employment.—An
unlimited field for experiment in many branches of natural philosophy is
here presented, and there is no sphere in life so well calculated as
this to promote individual virtue and public advantage.
Here man is engaged in the peculiar work assigned him by his Creator,
and many interesting reflections naturally result from it. The field
which he cultivates is his parent earth. According to the righteous
appointment of Heaven, he must here obtain his bread by the sweat of his
brow, until he returns to the dust. The employment naturally directs his
thoughts to his origin and destinies; and impresses his mind with a
sense of his mortality, dependence, and accountability to God. Here too
he reflects, with peculiar advantage, upon the gracious plan of
Redemption. The return of spring joyfully reminds him of the
Resurrection; and in the perishing grain which he has sown, he
recognizes St. Paul’s similitude of this great event.
{37} The further a man’s employment is from rural scenes and avocations,
the further he is from the original dignity and simplicity of his
nature. Here may be acquired the greatest comparative degree of physical
and mental vigour, the noblest virtues, the truest piety, the most
sincere and ardent patriotism, the loftiest independence of character,
and all the pleasures which flow from the sprightliness of the
imagination and the susceptibility of the heart.
The great and good of every age have spoken in behalf of agriculture;
and the Egyptians ascribed the discovery of it to their gods. The
worthies of Greece and Rome were well acquainted with the plough; and
Cincinnatus left his team, vanquished the Æqui and Volsci, who were
besieging the Roman army, and then returned to his beloved employment.
Our Washington too, charmed his pure and noble spirit with the rural
occupations of his endeared Vernon; and the Emperor of China attends,
every spring, to the ceremony of opening the ground, by holding the
plough himself.
In my course to Niagara Falls I passed Genesee river. This river rises
in Pennsylvania, and enters Lake Ontario about eighty miles east of
Niagara river. It contains several falls, from fifty to one hundred feet
in height, and offers many fine seats for mills. This river, and those
which are connected with it are generally sluggish in their motion.
The tract of country lying upon the Genessee is rich, and well watered.
The celebrated Genessee Flats are situated on the borders of the river,
and is about twenty miles by four.
The Holland Purchase is a part of the Genessee Country.[57]
Although I have not yet surveyed the whole field of domestic emigration,
I may, with propriety, introduce in this place some ideas which I {38}
have heretofore entertained upon the subject; these ideas having been
fully sanctioned by the experience of my whole tour. The subject should
be examined both in a national and individual point of view.
Supposing, for a moment, that my reflections upon this topic may produce
some effect upon the feelings and opinions of those who are disposed to
emigrate, there is little or no danger of lessening the interests of the
nation, in relation to it, by checking too much the existing locomotive
disposition of the people.
Dear as home is to man, he is, in his best estate, a wanderer. An alien
from the purity and peace of Heaven, he will sigh for other scenes until
his highest hopes eventuate in a habitation there.
Upon this general disposition of mankind to change their views of
happiness and their place of residence, the people of the United States
have engrafted an unusual degree of enterprise. This enterprise has at
once enriched and ennobled their country. Naturally fond of agriculture,
and fully sensible of its consequence, both in a public and private
point of view, our citizens have combined, in relation to this subject,
the powerful influences of inclination, interest, and patriotism. But
the impulse to emigration under these circumstances may have been too
great. When a spring naturally overflows, the superabundance of its
water may well be spared to fertilize the adjacent country; but when
some extraordinary influence produces an ebullition in the spring, it
may, in consequence of this cause, exhaust its own resources and
ultimately become dry.
Extraordinary causes, in relation to those subjects which concern the
growth of a nation, should always be watched and sometimes checked.
Under ordinary circumstances the natural operation of cause and effect
will keep every thing within its proper {39} sphere,—will direct every
thing to its proper level.
With respect to emigrations from our seaboard to the inland states and
territories, there is danger of the strength of the nation being, for a
time, lessened. The physical force of a country should always be kept
compact. By dividing its powers its energies will be weakened.