gentleman to go to Detroit, Michigan Territory, and to take out his
family, consisting of his wife, three children and a man-servant; which
he was desirous of removing to that country. Himself having business,
went on horseback several days before we started. I purchased two horses
and a pleasure wagon, and proceeded to Albany[3] in New-York, and
passing through many handsome villages, such as Utica, Bloomfield,
Canandaigua,[4] Batavia, &c., came to Buffalo,[5] at the foot of Lake
Erie, where we met the gentleman waiting to receive his family, which he
was going to put on board of a vessel and go up the lake. But preferring
myself to go by land, I crossed the Niagara river into Canada; it being
but three hundred miles to Detroit on that shore, while it is four
hundred on the United States shore, and a much worse road. I went to a
friend’s house, formerly from Concord, who lived about nine miles from
this place. This friend wishing to go on the journey with me, we began
to make preparations; however, as I was a stranger in that country, he
wished me to visit the Falls of Niagara, thirty-eight miles below. After
notifying the before mentioned gentleman, we proceeded on and saw the
stupendous work of nature, which has so often and so accurately been
described by other travelers as to need no description from me.
After spending three days in this neighbourhood, we returned to my
friend’s house. The vessel which was to carry the gentleman’s family was
expecting to sail in a few days, and I intended to start as soon. But a
day or two before we were ready to proceed, standing at my friend’s
door, we saw a gentleman riding up in great haste, who informed us that
war had taken place between the United States and Great-Britain. This
was sorrowful news indeed to me; and my only remedy was, if possible, to
make my way back into the United States. Accordingly I harnessed my
horses to the waggon, and drove with all possible speed down to the
ferry and called for the boat; but judge of my surprise and sorrow,
when, instead of the ferryman handling their oars, I was accosted {23}
by sentinels walking with their guns, who said they had strict orders to
forbid any one crossing over. I stood some time looking to the opposite
shore, which was about one mile, and could see the same business going
on. I then returned in haste; was advised to take my horses into the
woods and secrete them, which I did. Finding ourselves destitute of many
articles which we wanted, such as tea, sugar, tobacco, &c., and not
being able to procure them on this side, as there were no stores on the
Canada side where they were kept, we resolved to make an adventure upon
the other side. Accordingly when night came on, we fitted out a boat
with four men with oars, and sent them to accomplish our object. They
had eighteen miles to cross the lake, which was performed before
daylight. The next morning, unperceived by any one except the
storekeeper, who was always ready to supply the wants of any one when he
was sure of cash in return, the boat was hauled into the bushes, and the
men secreted during the day. In the meantime the articles wanted were
put up and at night put on board, when the boat was shoved off, and they
steered their course directly back again. Owing to the darkness of the
night they steered too much up the lake, and at daylight found they were
about six miles from shore. They pulled very hard, but did not arrive
until after sunrise. Fearing they might be discovered from Fort Erie,[6]
they carried their goods up into the bushes and hauled the boat after
them, when they came up to a house a little distance from their landing,
and went about their daily employment. About two hours afterwards a
non-commissioned officer, whom we found to be a serjeant, and four men
belonging to the cavalry, rode up to the door, armed and in British
uniform, and demanded if there had been a boat across the lake to this
place. The answer was no. They then dismounted, and walking in, began to
search in and about the house, but found nothing. Observing their
disappointment, we took pity on them, invited them in, and gave them
some spirits to drink. The morning was warm, and after drinking several
times, they concluded that all was as it should be, and returned to
their station. I remained here several days, and began to grow quite
discontented with my {24} present prospects; I therefore concluded to
call on General Brock,[7] the Commander-in-chief of the Province of
Upper Canada, and solicit his aid. His headquarters were at Fort
George,[8] forty-seven miles below, near the head of Lake Ontario. The
second day of July I started with a horse and gig, went to Chippewa and
stayed over night. Next morning, wishing to know my fate, I proceeded on
till within about one mile of the Fort, when ascending a hill, I fell in
the rear of five hundred Indians, who were marching in Indian file,
painted, and in their war dress. Not wishing to interrupt them at this
critical time, I moved slowly after them until I had an opportunity of
passing them without molestation to either party. They walked with their
faces down, and paid no attention to any one. On coming on to the plain
near the Fort, I discovered warlike preparations; flying artillery,
cavalry and foot, not in great numbers, but exercising and preparing for
an attack. The American Fort Niagara,[9] and the English Fort George,
lie nearly opposite, one mile distant from each other, and on the
opposite sides of the Niagara river; they were each under fearful
apprehensions. I rode up to the General’s house and inquired for him,
and was conducted to the garden. I walked up to him and made known my
business, and my anxious desire of crossing the river with my property.
He politely replied, he had no objection to granting my request,
provided the officers of the United States would grant the same
indulgence to his Majesty’s subjects; but until then he could give me no
permit. After many questions, to which he received my answers, he said I
should see him at Fort Erie the next forenoon, which I did, about ten
o’clock. While conversing with him this morning, a cannon was discharged
at Black Rock,[10] two miles below, which at this time had become
fortified by the United States; he started, and said, “I must consider
you as a prisoner of war, and unless you can procure bonds of fifty
thousand dollars to remain within this Province, you must immediately be
committed to prison.” My friend accidentally standing by at this time,
passed his word for me, which was sufficient, and I was set at liberty.
The cause of this discharge from the cannon, and many others which
followed, was the celebration of the fourth of July, it being that day
of the month.
{25} I remained under this bond seventeen days, but was allowed to go
where I chose without molestation. Waggons were daily coming in from the
back woods loaded with men, women and children, many of whom were in a
very distressed situation; they begged for permission to cross to the
United States, many of whom were formerly from there; but instead of
this request being granted, many of the men were made soldiers, and
their horses taken and employed in the service of government. Bad as
this may seem, yet it was far preferable to remaining in the woods among
the savages, who assumed the right of plundering whatever came in their
way. These people were truly in a bad situation, for they were neither
safe at home, nor on the frontiers, as the soldiers were few and
provisions scarce. As for my part, I was allowed to go where I pleased;
and oftentimes fell in company with the officers, who treated me very
politely. On the seventeenth day of my bondage, while at my lodgings, I
received a line from an officer, ordering me to appear at Fort Erie;
which I did. I was then conducted two miles below, to the ferry, where a
boat was prepared, and I was ordered to go on board, and soon arrived on
the United States’ shore. When I first received this order, suspecting
what would take place, took my friend aside, told him I knew that a
gentleman in Buffalo had petitioned General Brock for my release, and
thought it possible this would take place, and should I not return that
day, he might be assured that I was at liberty; and that I wished him at
night to build a large fire on the lake shore, and have my horses and
carriage ready if I should call.
My object now was to get a boat sufficiently large to carry two horses
and a waggon. I was told that I could obtain one by going eighteen miles
up the lake. I immediately hired a horse, and went to the place, but
found the boat was gone twelve miles further up. I passed on, and when I
arrived there, found the boat had gone still further up, and was obliged
to give over the pursuit. This being the only suitable boat in the
vicinity, and not being able to obtain that, I began almost to despair
of ever getting my horses across to the United States’ shore. When night
came on, I could plainly discern the light {26} which my friend had
kindled on the opposite shore; which was for a mark for me to steer by,
had I found a boat; and although I was determined to run every risk, and
venture all hazards, to cross, and get my property on board; yet I was
obliged to relinquish all hope, and had the mortification to see all my
attempts frustrated. I therefore returned back to Buffalo, purchased a
horse and gig, and returned home to Massachusetts.
I remained at home till the third of July, eighteen hundred and
fourteen, when a gentleman, who was going to Kentucky, wished me to
accompany him. I took a horse and waggon, and we set out on our journey;
pursuing the same route which I formerly took, to Batavia, in the
western part of New-York. Our intention was to go by land to Cincinnati,
at the south-western part of Ohio, where we should meet the Ohio river.
But falling in with a gentleman who observed that he was well acquainted
with all that part of the country, and who advised us to steer southerly
to the head of Alleghany river, the distance being but about forty-five
miles, where we should find a pleasant water carriage the remaining part
of our journey; we agreed with him, and sold him my waggon and harness,
as there was no road for wheels a part of this route, purchased
provision, and packed all our effects on to the horse, and set out on
foot, driving our horse before us. We travelled on two days, seldom
seeing any house, having very bad roads, such as by many people would be
considered no road at all. We stopped at night at a log hut, found the
people more friendly than intelligent; inquired how far we had come, and
were informed we had travelled forty miles, and had forty miles further
to go. We were greatly disappointed and mortified at our informer’s
account of this route, especially as provision was very scarce both for
man and beast. However, the next morning we continued on our journey
till about twelve o’clock, when we stopped at a log hut. There had been
several acres of land cleared, and we noticed a very tall hemlock-tree
at the farther end of this clearing, and a man chopping it down. It
being of an extraordinary size, we thought we would go to the root and
see it fall. The man who was chopping observed, it would be some time
before it {27} would fall; and my friend walked away to some little
distance. I remained a few minutes, and then followed him. When I had
proceeded about half of the length of the tree I heard a cracking noise,
and looking back, I saw the tree coming directly upon me. There was no
chance of escaping; I therefore clung my arms to me and partly sat down;
the tree fell, the body touching my left shoulder, and a large limb my
right. I was completely covered with the limbs and leaves, but without
the slightest injury. I soon cleared myself of this uncouth situation,
and looked on my narrow escape with surprise; the other two men stood
motionless with fear. We soon pursued our journey; and the next day,
about four o’clock in the afternoon, were overtaken by a boy, who
observed he was travelling our way about one mile and a half, when he
said we should come to a tavern. This was joyful news to us, as our
provision was almost exhausted, and we had but few chances of renewing
it. The clouds had been gathering fast, and there was an appearance of
rain; in a few minutes the wind began to blow violently, the limbs of
trees were falling on all sides, and large trees were blown up by the
roots; we could scarcely escape the danger of one, before another
presented itself. The cracking and falling of the trees was terrible,
not only to the hearing, but the sight also. I jumped from tree to tree,
not knowing which way or direction was most safe. Heavy thunder, sharp
lightning, and the rain falling in torrents, made the scene doubly
terrible, and seemingly, nothing but death awaited us every moment. This
gale continued about twenty minutes, when the wind ceased, and all was
still. My first object was to find my companions and horse, if still
alive. I had not seen them since the commencement of the gale. I called
aloud, sometimes by name, at other times halloo, but no answer being
made, this gave me reason to believe that all was lost. After renewing
my calls for some time, I heard a voice and followed it; found it to
{be} my companion, and soon after the little boy came up. Our next
search was for the horse, which we found about one hundred yards from
where we stood, standing still among the fallen trees, stripped of every
thing except the bridle on his head. We made him fast, then {28} went in
search of the baggage, which we found, at considerable distance from
him, almost buried in the mud. Placing it on the horse’s back once more,
we related our danger to each other, and proceeded on our way, when we
soon arrived at the tavern which the boy had mentioned.
This tavern was an old log building of about twenty feet square, and
contained the landlord, his wife, and six children. Here we found some
pork, a small quantity of bread, and some whiskey, but no food for our
horse. This was the greatest accommodation we had found since leaving
Batavia. Finding a man who was going on to the end of our land voyage,
about seven miles, we left the boy, and about one hour before sunset, we
pursued our course. The mud and fallen trees very much retarded our
progress; but notwithstanding our wading in water, blundering over trees
and stumps, &c., at ten o’clock we arrived at the Alleghany river.
The next morning we met with three soldiers who had purchased a canoe,
and were bound down the river; we made an arrangement with them, paid
one half for the boat, sold my horse, and began to prepare for a trip
down the river. We endeavoured to purchase provision, but could not
obtain it for money. Having a blanket, I traded with a good lady for a
few pounds of bread and pork. The truth is, the land about this place is
so poor, the few inhabitants who are settled here have no resources only
from the country, back a considerable distance; and hence they may be
called real speculators on travellers, who happen to take this course
for the Ohio river. Our company, now consisting of five in number,
embarked on board this about three o’clock in the afternoon, and at
sunset we came to a sandy beach, hauled our boat ashore, and concluded
to remain here during the night. We built us a fire, cooked some
provision, and encamped for the night. The weather being warm, we made
but little provision against the cold; about one o’clock I awoke, and
found myself very chilly. The rest being all asleep, I got up, and found
I had been lying in water about two inches deep. Mustering all hands we
went further up on to the shore, drawing our boat after us, built a
fire, got warm and partly dried {29} when daylight appeared. Each one
now taking a piece of bread in one hand and a piece of pork in the
other, made a hearty breakfast; after which we took to our oars and
continued on our course. The river being very low at this season of the
year, made the navigation of our boat, although small, very difficult.
Sometimes, for a long distance, we would row in almost still water, then
coming to rapids, we were urged on with great velocity among rocks and
trees, which had lodged among them. One of the soldiers being acquainted
with this river, rendered our situation much safer, as he served as our
conductor; otherwise we should hardly have dared to run the venture. The
log houses on this river were few in number, and from the poorness of
the land, and the then existing war, the inhabitants were left destitute
almost of the necessaries of life for themselves, much more so for
travellers. Deer, bears, and other small game being plenty, their
principal dependence was on these for sustenance. The fourth day of our
voyage, in the afternoon, we discovered a house on the bank of the
river. We pulled ashore, went up and requested to stay over night. Our
request was granted, and we had plenty of venison, and fed to our full
satisfaction. The man observed he had just killed a fine buck, and was
glad to entertain all strangers. We remained here during the night,
leaving what little provision we had in a knapsack on board the boat,
which we hauled on the bank, thinking all would be secure. Next morning
went down, and found all safe except the provision, which had been
carried off in the night by some dogs, their footsteps being plainly to
be seen. We mentioned this to the man of the house, who observed he was
very sorry for our misfortune, especially as it must be his own dogs, he
keeping a pack of hounds. There was no remedy however for this accident;
we therefore made ourselves contented, he saying that he would furnish
us with every thing in his power, which was but little; and for this
little he was careful to charge us an exorbitant price. He however
entertained us with many amusing stories of his great feats in hunting,
particularly his great success in killing catamounts, which are numerous
about the Alleghany mountains. He led a horse up to the door, sounded a
horn, {30} and immediately the beast was surrounded by twenty or thirty
dogs, barking, howling, and jumping almost into the poor animal’s mouth,
which stood with great patience, and seemed not to notice them. This,
said the man, is my pleasure and support, and what I would not exchange
for all the luxury of an eastern city. Pleased with this history, we
took to our oars, pushed on, working hard during the day, camping on the
shore during the night, with short provision till the eighth day, when
we came within thirty miles of Pittsburg. Being tired of these waters,
we sold our boat, and proceeded on by land. Here we came to a plentiful
part of the country, and the next day we arrived at Pittsburg,[11] at
the head of Ohio river, three hundred miles from where we first took
water. We staid here one day, then parted with the three soldiers, and
took passage in a keel boat bound down the river. On board of this boat
we had every accommodation we could wish. Forty of the passengers,
besides twelve of the boat’s crew, stopped at Wheeling, a pleasant town
in Virginia, and then proceeded on to Marietta, at the mouth of the
Muskingum river, and so on to Cincinnati, Ohio. Here we went on board a
flat-bottomed boat, and proceeded to Louisville, Kentucky, at the falls
of the Ohio river, seven hundred miles below Pittsburg. I tarried at
this place several days, then purchased me a horse, saddle and bridle,
parted with my old friend, who had found his brother and wished to
remain, started for the eastern States, passed through Frankfort, the
seat of government in Kentucky, and came on to Cincinnati in Ohio.
Here I met three gentlemen who were travelling on to the head of the
Alleghany river; their company was very acceptable to me, as I was a
stranger through that wilderness country. The day after we commenced our
journey together, it began to rain, and continued raining most of the
time for ten days, which made the roads extremely bad, and hard
travelling. The soil being of a clayey nature, in many hollows, which,
in a dry season, are perfectly dry, we now found the water quite deep,
in strong currents, almost impassable for horses, and quite so with
carriages. Our feet were constantly wet during the day, and our horses
frequently mid-rib deep in water. {31} There being but few bridges in
this quarter, and these mostly log ones, we were frequently compelled to
encounter these vallies or guzzles, without bridges, full of water, and
extremely difficult to pass. In some places, in low grounds, there would
be log-causeways for a considerable distance, which, at this wet season,
were very slippery, and rendered travelling doubly difficult and
dangerous; although in a less wet time they might assist in keeping
travellers out of the mud. The accommodations on the road for ourselves
and horses were very good until we came to the north part of
Pennsylvania. Here I was attacked with fever and ague, and was obliged
to stop several days. All the company, except one man, left me, they
being very anxious to arrive at their places of destination. I waited
here until I was a little recruited, and then proceeded on, although
very weak and feeble, both from the disorder and the medicine I had
taken. The third night after our departure, we stopped at a hut, where
we found provision for ourselves and food for our horses. During the
night it rained very hard; the next morning we inquired of our landlord
the distance to the next house, and were told it was twenty miles and a
very rough road, which proved strictly true. We climbed over rocky
mountains, often meeting with fallen trees, and no way of getting round
them. My fellow-traveller would get off his horse and assist me in
getting off mine, as I was unable to dismount alone; he would then leap
the horses over the trees, and then help me on again. Thus we continued
ascending and descending these high hills; and, although we started very
early in the morning, and were diligent during the whole day, we did not
arrive at the above mentioned house until sunset, and were completely
drenched in rain. We stopped, went into an old cabin, found a woman and
a half a dozen children, asked permission to stay, and it was granted.
There was nothing for our horses but a bunch of old straw lying out of
the doors; the saddles were taken off, and the horses tied to it, where
they remained all night. We then took off our coats and sat down to dry
ourselves; but there was but very little difference between our present
situation and out of doors. This place we named Hobson’s choice, (that
or none). We then inquired of {32} the woman whether she could furnish
us with a supper. She pleasantly replied she could, with such a rarity
as she had not seen in the house, till that day, for three months and a
half; it was some Indian meal, which she would make into pot-cakes, and
which with a little butter, some pickles, and a kind of tea, which grew
around her cabin, she said was good enough for any gentleman. These
delicacies being ready, we sat down, and I ate extremely hearty, not
having eaten or drank anything since sunrise; it was a delicious meal.
The next morning we partook of the same fare, paid two dollars each, put
our saddles on to our trembling, half starved horses, and bidding our
hostess good bye, proceeded on our journey. On our way we stopped at a
house in an Indian village belonging to the Seneca tribe,[12] which was
improved as an inn. Here we found plenty of good provisions, and food
for our horses. It was a small log house, very neat inside, and the
accommodations superior to any we had found on the road. They had all
kinds of spirits, and, from all appearance, made but little use of them
themselves; a circumstance not characteristic of these wild men of the
woods. One man introduced himself as Major Obee; his manners did not
appear like the rest of the Indians, and we understood the reason was,
he was educated at Philadelphia. After several days more of hard
travelling, we came out on the great western turnpike in New-York.[13]
This was a pleasant sight to us, and probably would have been to our
poor animals could they have expressed their feelings; for in travelling
among mud, rocks and stumps, they had scarcely any hair left on their
legs. I now considered myself almost at home, although three hundred
miles from it. After this nothing material happened to me; I soon
travelled these three hundred miles, and safely arrived in Massachusetts
the beginning of October.