_Beyroot, October 14th, 1838._
Yesterday I returned with my family from the mountains, where we
had been to recruit from the effects of the warm weather. For you
must know, that after knocking about in a very extempore way for
some time, I concluded it was better to go into partnership, and
accordingly we commenced house-keeping for ourselves, early in March
last. In doing this, I showed all my partiality for my own country,
by passing by all the dark-eyed beauties of the East, and selecting
one of the daughters of my own people.
Bhamdoon, the village at which we spent the summer, stands high on
the mountains; only on one occasion before had any Franks lived
among them. About two-thirds of the people belong to the Greek
church. The remainder are Maronites. We found the people friendly,
but the Maronites were less disposed to have intercourse with us
than the Greeks. We distributed a number of books in that and the
adjacent villages, and almost every night some of the people came in
to hear the Scriptures read, and to be present at evening prayers.
This was usually followed by conversation, which often lasted an
hour or two. Sometimes the number was so great, as to fill the room.
Hykel, my teacher, was almost always present, and took part in the
conversation; not unfrequently curious and puzzling questions were
asked, as what that light was, which is spoken of as separated from
the darkness, in the first of Genesis; and how the day and night
were measured before the sun was made? They often showed a good deal
of intelligence. To vary the exercises, I sometimes gave them tracts
to read, and generally very good attention was paid to the reading
of them.
The old priest of the village was blind, and there was a monk
assisting him, who was better informed than any of that order that
I have met with. He visited us frequently, and read portions of
the New Testament with us, and commented on them. He often gave
exhortations, or preached to the people. He, as well as the people,
seemed to consider this as a matter that did him some credit. My
knowledge of the language was not sufficient to enable me fully to
understand all he said, but from what I could understand, I thought
he was fond of giving curious and far-fetched interpretations.
Both he and the people seemed to rest on the outward form of
religion, and to be strangers to its inward and spiritual power.
The Greek church stood near our house, and we often saw travellers
in passing the church ride up to it, touch it with their hand, put
that to their heads, cross themselves, and then pass on. The same
was done by the villagers, and they would often kiss the stones a
number of times. I witnessed a rite in this church that was new
to me. I had been informed by one of the leading men, that our
friend, the monk, would preach the next morning. I considered the
information as a kind of invitation to attend, which I did. His
sermon, as far as I could understand it, was not very instructive,
but rather of the spiritualizing kind. It was, however, delivered
with earnestness, and listened to with attention by a full house.
At its close, prayers were read, and some bread produced and broken
into very small pieces, and handed to the people in a plate. It was
sought for with great eagerness, and many of the little boys were
particularly pressing to receive it. I supposed at first that it was
the Lord's Supper, but was told afterwards that it was not, but a
representation of the body of the Virgin Mary.
I made a second very pleasant trip to Baalbec with Mrs. P. and
our two little girls. We had many opportunities of distributing
books and tracts along the road. In most instances, as soon as it
was known that we had books, our tent was surrounded by persons
importuning for them. As soon as one was supplied, he would withdraw
to a little distance, and set himself to reading in good earnest.
The success of some encouraged others, and each had some particular
reason to urge, why he should be supplied before the others. We were
absent five days, and on our return, were welcomed with great joy by
our good friends in the village.
Bhamdoon is surrounded with vineyards. The vines are, for the most
part, allowed to lie on the ground. In a few places peculiarly
situated, they are trained on supports, which raise them several
feet above it. The grapes are of various kinds, most of them
white and large. We are supplied with them most generously and
munificently by the people. There are several houses that seem to be
common property, where they express the juice of the grape. They
have, along one side of the house, a row of large vats, into which
the grapes are thrown; and beside these, stone troughs, into which
the juice flows. Men get in the vats, and tread the grapes with
their feet. It is hard work, and their clothes are often stained
with the grape. The figures found in Scripture, taken from this, are
true to the life. "I have trod the wine-press alone;" "I will stain
all my raiment;" "The wine-press was trodden without the city." The
juice that was extracted when I visited the press, was not made
into wine, but into what is called dibbs. It resembles molasses.
They take the juice from the troughs, put it into large boilers,
and reduce it to one-half, possibly one-third of the original
quantity. It is then removed to large earthen jars, and subjected to
a process, not unlike churning, which is repeated for a few days,
until it thickens. When properly churned, or beaten, but little
separation of the particles takes place. It forms a very pleasant
article for table use, and is decidedly preferable to molasses.
We witnessed the process of making raisins. The grapes are collected
and dipped in a weak ley, with which a small quantity of olive-oil
has been mixed. They are then spread out on the ground, and several
times a day this mixture is sprinkled over them. This is continued,
for six, eight, or ten days, according to the dryness of the
atmosphere, until the raisins are cured. They are then taken up, and
while warm from the sun, put into jars and pressed down hard, and
thus preserved for use or sale. There is, however, but little wine,
raisins, or dibbs exported. Most that is made is kept for family use.
The salutations of these people are very similar to those of
ancient times. In passing persons at work, as in cultivating
their vineyards, or thrashing out grain, the usual form is
"_Salam-a-laykoom_," Peace be unto you; and the answer is,
"_A-laykoom-issalum_," Upon you be peace. On entering a house, it
is Peace be upon you, or "_Olloh makoom_," God be with you. In
giving orders to servants, or requesting favours of friends, the
answer generally given is, "_A-lah-rass-ee_," On my head be it. The
women, in taking a quantity of flour from their store for a batch
of bread, will precede it with a "_Bismillee_," In the name of God.
As a general thing the Arabs may be said to be a polite people.
The morning and evening salutations are always passed among the
inmates of the same house; they will seldom pass you in the road
without some kind word. When lights are brought, the servants will
say, "Good evening to you," and the company will say the same to
one another. They have a great variety of salutations, forms of
expression, and compliments suited to all the various circumstances
of life, and these are familiar to all; to the youngest and the
poorest, as well as to the prince.
Several bands of gipsies at different times visited our village.
They came in companies of from ten to thirty, men, women,
and children, mostly mounted on donkeys. They encamped in a
thrashing-floor near by, which gave us an opportunity to observe
their motions and learn their habits. They carry with them a few
utensils for cooking, and a few articles with which they cover
themselves at night. They will occasionally put up a rude tent to
shelter them from the sun. Some of them manufacture a few things,
which they dispose of in their rambles. Attached to each company
are two or three who play on musical instruments, and amuse the
people with their feats of jugglery. They have a language of their
own, with which they converse among themselves, but are familiar
with Arabic. They are great beggars, and notorious thieves. The
people are careful to secure their chickens and donkeys when the
gipsies are in the neighbourhood. They do not remain long at one
place,--here to-day and gone to-morrow. They stroll over the
mountains in the summer, but remove farther south in winter.
April 18, 1838.--On the first Sabbath of the present year, a Druse
family was baptised by the missionaries at this place. They had for
two years been attentive to the instructions of the missionaries,
and both the parents gave evidence of piety. They, with their six
children, were baptized at the mission-house at the close of the
Arabic service. It was an interesting occasion, and excited a good
deal of interest among those who are in the habit of attending the
Arabic preaching. There are several other Druses, who are constant
in their attendance at the Sabbath school and Arabic preaching, and
profess a great desire to become Christians.
You are, no doubt, familiar with the account of Asaad Shidiak. I
have learned several things about him lately, which to me, at least,
had a considerable degree of painful interest. I have seen several
persons who, as they declare, saw him during his imprisonment, and
one who saw him after his death. He was of the Maronite church, and
from his intercourse with the missionaries he came to understand the
corruption of his church, and the nature of true spiritual religion.
This brought on him the displeasure of the dignitaries of that
church. He was a man of learning and talents, and, with the truth on
his side, he was too much in argument for any of them. After various
attempts to bring him back to their corrupt system in vain, he was
seized and imprisoned, and subjected to much cruel treatment. He
held fast to the truth which he had learned. His faith was built on
the Bible. One of the individuals from whom I gained information
about him said, he had a long conversation with him while in prison.
He was shut up in a small room only a few feet square, the door
walled up so as to leave but a small opening, like a window. He was
loaded with chains, and his food handed to him through this small
opening. He assured this person that his religious faith rested
alone on the Bible.
His confinement was so close that it had become, with people
generally, a matter of doubt whether he was dead or alive. Thus
it had been for some time before the Egyptian government took
possession of this country. Some of the Franks felt an intense
interest in his fate. Immediately after the fall of Acre, which
event secured to the Egyptian government the control of this part of
Syria, an English merchant of this place by the name of Todd, waited
on the Pasha, and made known the case of the imprisoned Asaad, and
asked and obtained authority to examine the convent where he was
confined, and have him set at liberty if he were alive.
Todd visited the convent, and made some search, but Asaad was not
found. He was informed that he was dead, and was shown what was
said to be his grave; this confirmed the opinion that he was dead.
This movement on the part of Todd was well meant; it may, however,
be doubted, whether it was well managed. The news got out that he
was about to visit the convent, and search for Asaad. It was known
on the mountains before he reached Cannobeen. It is now declared,
and pretty generally believed on the mountains, as I am told, that
Todd was over-reached in the matter, that Asaad was then alive, but
concealed when the examination was made. Todd spent but a few hours
in the convent, and that at night, and left the place with the full
impression that Asaad was dead.
After this, it is said that the high ecclesiastics, fearing that
the matter might be divulged that he was still living, had him
destroyed. A sheik, who lives near the place, and who has since had
a quarrel with the patriarch, has declared lately that Asaad was
destroyed not long after the search by Todd, and that he saw the
dead body before it was interred. How much truth there may be in
this I know not; for truth is a thing that does not abound among
this people. From the fact, however, that a wide-spread opinion on
the mountains places his death subsequent to the search by Todd, and
ascribes it to violence, there is much reason to believe that it is
correct.
His case has evidently made a great impression on the people of
the mountains. When I went to Bhamdoon, I was almost immediately
inquired of for the little book that told about Asaad Shidiak. I
sent to Beyroot, and procured some copies of a small Arabic tract,
written by Asaad himself, giving a short account of his change of
views, and discussions with the priests, up to near the time of his
imprisonment. These were sought for with more eagerness than almost
any book I had. The solicitations for it came principally from the
Maronites. It is, however, proscribed by their church; still I found
that some of them would read it. A good-looking young man, who was
evidently a pretty good scholar, would come to my room and read the
book by the hour. He would not take it away for fear of the priest.
And this reminds me of a case that was rather amusing, that took
place not long before we went to the mountains. Some of the Maronite
princes were down from the mountains, and one of them procured the
tract containing the account of Asaad Shidiak, and a priest saw
him reading it. This being strictly forbidden, the prince had a
penance assigned him, as did also the servants who were within
hearing at the time the book was read. He was directed to fast so
long; make so many prostrations; and pay such a sum of money. The
prince replied:--as to fasting, it made him sick, and he could not
do it; and as to the prostrations, they gave him the back-ache, and
he could not perform them; that the priest might, if he chose, make
the attendants do it--and there was some money, throwing down a part
of what was called for, which they might do what they pleased with.
There are a good many indications that the power of the priesthood
over the people is beginning to give way. The time, I hope, is near,
when more of the people will dare to think for themselves, and
follow the dictates of an enlightened conscience.
A few months ago, a heavy conscription, as it may be called, was
raised over the most, if not the whole of Syria; and out of it
has arisen the present war in the Houran. This is the name now
used to designate an extensive district east of the Jordan. It
embraces the country occupied by the tribes that lived east of that
river--Reuben, Gad, and the half tribe of Manasseh; the country of
Bashan, Moab, and a district to the east, that is not much known
to Europeans. It is said to be a high country, and abounding with
remains of cities. The Egyptian government extends over this, but
how far to the east I do not know.
In raising soldiers, the Pasha sent a body of troops out among
these towns and villages, to take such as were fit for soldiers.
The people, who have much of the Arab character, did not like this,
rose on the soldiers, and destroyed several hundred of them. The
Pasha then sent a considerable body of troops to destroy the towns
and chastise the people. The people left their towns as the soldiers
approached, and joined the Arabs of the desert. They were joined
by many from other parts of the country, and in all made a pretty
imposing force. Taking advantage of the rough and mountainous
districts, they did not allow the troops of the Pasha to bring them
to a fair fight; and attacking his army in a situation that gave
them the advantage, they have twice beaten his army; and on the last
occasion, with a great loss to the Pasha, both of men and munitions
of war. The army of the Pasha had to retreat towards Damascus.
There is much discontent with the Pasha; and it need not cause much
surprise if other movements of a rebellious character should follow
the affair of the Houran, especially if it be not soon put down.
Some slight indications of the kind have appeared at Damascus; but
several, suspected of causing it, had their heads taken off with
little ceremony, and the matter seems to be stopped. Should the
Pasha subdue the Houran, it will produce a safer state of things
to the east of the Jordan than what has heretofore existed, and
throw open a vast region that must have peculiar interest to the
traveller, from the multitude of ruins that exist there, as well as
the connexion which it has with many of the events of ancient and
sacred history.
On the evening of the first of April, we witnessed a most wonderful
flight of locusts. They came like a dark cloud, filling the air for
a long distance. The greater part of them were above the tops of
the houses; but many flew lower, and passed through the tops of the
mulberry trees. There had been a strong south-east wind for about
twelve hours. They came from the east, and must, of course, have
crossed the Lebanon. Their course was west; but as they approached
the sea, I thought they varied, and passed more south-west, as if
not willing to go out of sight of land. For about half an hour the
air was full of them; afterwards their number decreased, but it
was a long time before the last straggler had passed. About three
days afterwards, we had them again from the south-west; the wind had
changed, and now came from that quarter. They now seemed disposed
to stop: the gardens and sands were full of them. They did not seem
to eat anything, but were employed in depositing their eggs, which
they place in the sands or earth. An acquaintance of mine, who has
just returned from Tripoli, states, that all the way from Ji-bail to
the river Beyroot, a distance of nearly twenty miles, the locusts
are thrown out on the shore in such numbers as to lie from eighteen
inches to two feet deep--they have been drowned in the sea. The old
locusts do not do much injury; it is the young ones, which will
come out in a month or six weeks after the eggs are deposited in
the sands, that eat so voraciously, and destroy all before them. I
understand the Emeer has issued an order for each person to collect
about a quart of their eggs, as a means of destroying them, and thus
preventing the destruction which the young locusts would make.