MATSUE, June, 1891.
DEAR MR. CHAMBERLAIN,--I am horribly ashamed to confess my weakness; but
the truth must be told! After having lived for ten months exclusively
upon Japanese fare, I was obliged to return (for a couple of days
only!!!!) to the flesh-pots of Egypt. Having become sick, I could not
recuperate upon Japanese eating--even when reënforced with eggs. I
devoured enormous quantities of beef, fowl, and sausage, and fried solid
stuffs, and absorbed terrific quantities of beer,--having had the good
luck to find one foreign cook in Matsue. I am very much ashamed! But the
fault is neither mine nor that of the Japanese: it is the fault of my
ancestors,--the ferocious, wolfish hereditary instincts and tendencies
of boreal mankind. The sins of the father, etc.
Do you know anything about Chōzuba-no-Kami? There are images of him.
He has no eyes--only ears. He passes much of his time in sleep. He is
angry if any one enters the _koka_ without previously hemming,--so as to
give him notice. He makes everybody sick if the place in which he dwells
is not regularly cleaned. He goes to Kizuki and to Sada with the other
gods once a year; and after a month's absence returns. When he returns,
he passes his hand over each member of the family as they go to the
Chōzuba,--to make sure the family is the same. But one must not be
afraid of the invisible hand. I think this kami is an extremely decent,
respectable person, with excellent views on the subjects of morality and
hygiene. I could not refuse him a lamp nor--for obvious reasons--the
worship of incense.
I have not been able to travel yet far enough to find anything novel,
but hope soon to do so. Meanwhile I am planning to make, if possible,
not only a tour of Izumo, but also a very brief visit to Tōkyō in
company with Mr. Nishida. Perhaps--I may be able to see both you and Mr.
Lowell for a tiny little while--you will always have a moment to spare.
I am always haunted by a particularly sarcastic translation Mr.
Lowell, in one of his books, made of the name of a gate,--"The Gate
of Everlasting Ceremony." (Only an American could have dared to make
such a translation.) I have been through the Gate and into the Court of
Everlasting Ceremony; but the gate is a marvellous swarming of carven
dragons and water, and the court is full of peace and sweetness. Most
truly,