DEAR PROFESSOR CHAMBERLAIN,--I returned last Sunday from
Ichibata, but was too tired and busy to write at once. I have already
sent you some _mamori_ from the famed temple of Yakushi Nyorai.
The little steamer--the very smallest I ever saw--which carries pilgrims
and others from Matsue to Kozakai--makes the trip to the latter village
in about two hours. Then the task of climbing the mountain is not
over-easy. The scenery, however, both on the lake and at Ichibata
is grand, and the peaks of the ranges have all their legends. There
are nearly 600 steps of stone to climb before the temple,--situated
on a windy summit whence the view extends for many luminous miles.
The temple is new,--the ancient one having been destroyed by fire.
There is a large hotel where guests are entertained upon a strictly
Buddhist diet--no fish, no eggs; but a little cheap sake is tolerated.
No girls,--only young men as servants and waiters. The priests made
some demonstrations at my appearance in their courts; but a few words
from the pilgrims with me settled me in their good opinions, and they
became kind, and showed me their _kakemonos_ of the Great Physician. All
afflicted with eye-troubles journey here and pray,--repeating always the
same prayer according to long established usage--"On koro-koro Sendai,"
etc. Little water vessels are sold bearing the _mon_ of the temple, and
these are filled from the temple spring, and the sick bathe their eyes
therewith. The trip was altogether a very charming one for me, and not
the less interesting because I had to get back to Matsue in a sampan.