MATSUE, September, 1890.
DEAR PROFESSOR,--I have just returned from my first really
great Japanese experience,--a trip to Kizuki. The two trips were
beautiful. From Shōbara the route lies through a superb plain of rice
fields, with mountain ranges closing the horizon to left and right.
Reaching Kizuki at night, I sent a letter of introduction from Mr.
Nishida of the Chūgakkō to Senke Takamori,--the princely person
whose family for 82 generations have been in charge of the great temple.
I paid a visit to the grounds the same evening, and was amazed by the
great scale and dignity of the buildings, and the nobility of the
approaches to them, under succession of colossal _torii_.
Next morning a messenger came from Mr. Senke, announcing that I would be
received at the temple. My attendant had, however, to put on _hakamas_
and perform other personal corrections of dress before entering the
august presence.
We were then received with a courtesy and kindness impossible to
praise sufficiently or to qualify too gratefully. After performing the
requisite ablution of hands, we were received into the inner shrine
of the chief deity--(my baggage not yet having arrived, I have not
your "Kojiki" by me to correct misspelling, but I think the name is
Ōnamuji-no-Mikoto). I was told that I was the first European ever
allowed to enter the shrine, though seven or eight other foreigners had
visited the grounds.
There are some 19 shrines not consecrated to any particular deities,--in
which the Kami are supposed to assemble during the Kami-ari-zuki,--after
a preliminary visit to a much smaller temple erected on the
seashore,--where, it is said, the sovereignty of Izumo was first
divinely guaranteed by the great deity.
We were received by the Gūji (Senke) in ceremonial costumes. His
robes were white, those of the attendant priests purple with gold
figuring--very beautiful. I acknowledge that I felt considerable awe in
the presence of these superb Japanese, who realized for me all that I
had imagined about the daimyōs, and grandees of the past. He who used
to be called the Iki-gami--said to descend from Susa-no-o-no-Mikoto--is
a fine portly man, with a full beard. The ceremonial was imposing, and
the sense of the immense antiquity and dignity of the cult, and of
the generations of its officiants, might have impressed even a more
unbelieving mind than my own.
The temple is really very noble, with its huge pillars, and the solidity
of its vast beamwork. Since the prehistoric era it has been rebuilt 28
times. It is said to be the oldest of all Shintō places of worship, and
holier than Ise. There are many curiosities and valuable historical
documents. The chief shrine faces west,--unlike others.
We were shown the primitive method of lighting the sacred fire--a simple
board in holes of which a rapidly revolving stick kindles the spark.
Also we saw the hierophantic dance, and heard the strange old song
sung--_An-un_--to the accompaniment of sticks tapped on curiously shaped
wooden boxes, or drums.
Subsequently we were invited to the house of Mr. Senke, where other
curious things were shown to us. I have had a rare and delightful
experience, and I hope to write of it for one of the English reviews
later on.
My attendant--unwarrantably, perhaps--mentioned me as a friend of yours;
and the statement provoked a murmur of pleasure. Your name is held, I
can assure you, in very great reverence at Kizuki; and I feel assured,
should you go there, that you would be received as if you were the chief
of the Kami. And I am also sure you would like these really fine and
noble men.
I have written enough to tire you perhaps, but I believe the subject
may, at least, suggest questions of value from you, if not otherwise
interesting. Kizuki is certainly the chief place of interest in Izumo;
and I have all details and documents. They will take me some months to
digest, but I shall do something pretty.
The jinrikisha ride is a little tiring. Kizuki is very, very pretty.
From 200,000 to 250,000 pilgrims go there yearly. All day the sound of
the clapping of hands is unbroken, like the sound of a cataract. At
least it was when I was there.
Best regards to you.