Cast on 70 stitches, 1 row plain; 2nd row, 2 plain, 2 pearl. Repeat for
about an inch. Then 4½ inches of plain knitting. Another inch to match
the bottom part, of 2 plain and 2 pearl alternately; remembering, of
course, to make the plain stitches in one row, the pearled ones in the
next. Cast off, and take care not to cast off too tightly, as this part
goes over the hand. Sew up, leaving about four inches unsewn for the
thumb. Join the wool at the lower part of the thumb, nearest the wrist;
pick up 2 stitches; with your second needle turn and pearl off these
2 together. Now you have 1 stitch upon your needle; knit this stitch
and pick up 1 from the side; turn and pearl these two; pick up another
from the other side. Continue to pick up these side-stitches, but every
3 rows you must knit (or pearl) 2 together until you have decreased 8
stitches. You will now find it more convenient to have the knitting on
2 pins. Continue knitting and pearling until you have picked up nearly
all the side-stitches. These few remaining stitches, about 8 (4 on
either side), take up on a third needle, and knit 3 plain rounds.
Fourth round—pearl 2, plain 2. Repeat 9 times and cast off.
_Knitted Purse._
One skein blue and one black of purse twist.
These old-fashioned long purses are still occasionally used; the
following pattern is rather a small one.
Cast on 72. Knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1. Repeat. Second row plain.
When broad enough double it and sew up, leaving about 3 inches open for
the money to slip in. Finish off with steel rings and tassels.
_Another Purse._
With pins No. 17 or 18, and 1 oz. embroidery silk, price 1s. 6d., from
Adams & Co. 5 New Street, Bishopsgate Street, E., cast on 144, and
proceed as above; or make 1, knit 3, draw the first of the 3 over the
other 2.
Second row—plain. Repeat.
_Lady’s Knitted Woollen Vest, or Jersey._
(BEAUTIFULLY WARM AND COMFORTABLE.)
Needles, No. 9; merino wool, or 2-ply fleecy; the former for summer
wear.
These cost about 1s. 1d. each, and are the greatest comfort to those
who suffer from the cold.
The 2-ply fleecy is the best wool to use, as it does not wash hard.
For the back—cast on 78 stitches, pearl 3, plain 3, in ribs for 140
rows.
141st row—knit 18 stitches; now turn (these 18 stitches form the
shoulder-strap); pearl the 18; knit them; turn, and pearl them. You
ought now to be beginning the row again, and this time you pearl; and
now pearl the 17th and 18th stitches together; turn and knit back; knit
a row, taking the 16th and 17th together; turn and pearl back; knit a
row, taking the 15th and 16th together. Turn, and knit the row. Go on
in this way, remembering always to decrease at the left side, at the
end of every row, until you have done 5 ribs altogether. You ought
to have 12 stitches on now. Then cast off. These ribs ought to be
crossways instead of lengthways.
Now begin to cast off the remaining stitches, until you come to the
last 18. Work this shoulder the same as the last.
[Illustration]
The _Fig._ is the right-hand shoulder, the plain and pearl each
counting as one rib, making 5 in all.
For the front part of the vest you cast on 78 stitches and knit 125
rows. Begin the right-hand shoulder by pearling, and make ribs as
before, only this time you do not begin to decrease at the left until
you have done 7 ribs. Reduce to 12 stitches; make 11 ribs and cast off.
Cast off the remaining stitches, and proceed as before with the last 18
for the fourth shoulder-piece.
Now sew up these two sides until you get to within 24 rows from the top
of the front piece, which is the shortest. You must now join the rest
with a gusset, which you form by picking up one stitch, knit it and
turn; in every row you must now take up one stitch, and rib them the
same as the other part of the vest in 3 and 3. Thus, the first row you
have 1 stitch, the next row 2, the next row 3, and so on. When 24 rows
are done, cast off. Sew up the shoulders, and crochet a narrow border
of small even holes, into which run a piece of crochet wool or white
ribbon.
It is a good plan to pick up the stitches all along the shoulder-strap,
and knit a few rows, according to the depth of sleeve desired.
_Shetland Shawl._
This takes ¾ lb. of wool, and costs about 9s. A scarlet or violet
crocheted border improves it. It can be finished off with a fringe or
not, as suits the taste. Bone pins, No. 7.
Cast on 302. Knit a plain row; knit 1 plain stitch at the beginning and
end of every row. * Make 1, knit 3, draw the first of the three over
the other two. Repeat from *. The next row plain. Repeat these two rows
until enough is done, and cast off.
Any fancy stitch will do: it had better be rather a simple one.
_Pence Jug._
½ oz. pink and ½ oz. black Andalusian would do three. They would cost
3½d. each. 5 needles, No. 16.
Cast on 12 stitches on 1 pin for the spout, 10 on each of the three
other needles; 4 rounds plain. Now do rounds of 2 plain, 2 pearl,
except the spout, which leave plain, decreasing 1 stitch at each side
of the twelve in the first 4 rounds, and 1 stitch on every alternate
side in the next 8 rounds. The spout is now finished, and you ought to
have 31 stitches on the needles.
Knit 12 rounds, 2 pearl, 2 plain, except under the spout, where 1
stitch is to be plain.
With black begin the bowl; increase by knitting 2 in 1; pearl 2 rounds;
knit 4 rounds with pink; knit 1 round with black, increasing 12
stitches (one in every six); pearl 2 rounds with black; knit 4 rounds
pink; knit 1 round black, increasing 12: there ought to be 86 now.
Pearl 2 rounds black. Knit 6 rounds pink. Pearl 2 rounds black. Knit 4
rounds pink. Knit 1 round black, decreasing 10 stitches at intervals.
Pearl 2 rounds black. Knit 4 rounds pink, 1 round black, decreasing 6.
Pearl 2 black rounds. You ought now to have 72 stitches. Divide these
by 6. Knit 11 rounds pink, decreasing 6 stitches in each round by
knitting 2 together at the commencement of each division, where a star
of 6 points will be found, and 6 stitches will remain on the needles.
These are to be drawn up and sewn together. Now cast on 6 stitches in
black, and knit and pearl alternately until you have done 3 inches:
this is for the handle; attach one end to the bowl and the other to the
top of the jug.
_Another._
(LONG SHAPE.)
Andalusian wool as the preceding pattern, and pins No. 15.
Cast on 12 stitches for the spout, and 15 on two other pins. Knit
4 rounds. Now decrease each side of the spout in every round. Do 9
rounds and then 3 pearl rows; then 9 more plain rows. Now for the
bowl—increase 1 stitch in every five, and then do three rounds in
black; now join the pink and * knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1: repeat
from *, the next round plain. Repeat these rows twice more, and with
black increase again 1 in every 8. Then with pink repeat the pattern
from *, and when the black begins again decrease instead of increasing.
Repeat as in preceding pattern and sew up. Take up 6 stitches at the
top of the jug opposite the spout, and knit and pearl for three inches;
cast off. Leave about a third of an inch hanging, and above that attach
it to the bowl.
_Another._
(ON TWO PINS.)
Berlin wool, and pins No. 15.
Cast on 3 stitches in blue or any other bright colour. 1st row, make
1, knit 1, repeat. 2nd row, make 1, pearl 2, repeat. 3rd row, make 1,
knit 3, repeat. 4th row, make 1, pearl 4, repeat. Continue in this way
until you have 42 stitches. Pearl a row and join the black wool. *
Bring the wool forward, knit 2 together; repeat from *. Knit the next
row. Repeat these 2 rows twice more. Do the same in blue, then the same
in black again. Join the blue, * knit 2 together, knit 1; repeat from
*. The next row plain. Do this for 4 rows. To form the neck of the jug
rib with black for 6 rows. For the spout, knit to the middle; increase,
knit 1; increase; the rest plain. Pearl a row, increasing on each side
of the 2 centre stitches. Increase in this way until you have 14 for
the spout; cast off in blue. Sew up the jug and make the handle in
blue, beginning a third of an inch from the top; take up 4 stitches;
pearl and knit alternately until long enough, then attach to the bowl
of the jug.
This can be knitted in Andalusian and pins No. 17, but in that case you
must make the bowl larger—68 stitches is a good size; and the neck or
ribbed part must be done for 12 rows instead of 6.
_Easy and Handsome Pattern for an Antimacassar, or Couvrette._
In 6-thread fleecy wool, ¼ lb. for each stripe. Pins, No. 6. This costs
9s. 9d. Scarlet maize, black, green, violet, are pretty contrasts.
Cast on 14 stitches plain knitting until you have attained the
required length. The only difficulty is in the casting off. You begin
by slipping the first stitch and knitting the second, which must be
very loose indeed, almost an inch in length; pass the slipped stitch
over. Now drop the 3rd stitch and let it run the whole length of the
knitting. Continue thus. The dropped stitches are allowed to run down,
and they form a kind of loop-pattern separated by ridges. Add a fringe
at top and bottom.
_Another._
4-ply fleecy, and bone pins to match.
Cast on 19 and rib cross-ways in nines. When long enough drop the
middle stitch. Cast on 9 in white, rib another stripe in the same way,
and drop the middle stitch. Crochet with black along every coloured
stripe, and join to the white with maize or orange. Two stripes of
green and one of purple look very nice.
_Persian Antimacassar._
This is extremely pretty, and is not difficult. The cost of these
couvrettes is generally about the same.
2 or 3 skeins of 4-thread fleecy, of each colour, according to the
length required. Pins, No. 10. Scarlet, gold, green, violet, dark
crimson, and blue. 6 skeins black, and 6 white filoselle, at 3d. per
skein, from Adams and Co., 5 New Street, Bishopsgate Street, E.
Cast on 22. Knit any length you like and cast off. Now select any
simple wool-work pattern—a palm is best—or any Moorish pattern, and
work it in cross-stitch on the knitting. Do 5 on one strip and 6 on the
next, so that they do not come exactly in a line one with another. This
has a very handsome effect, indeed. The pattern ought to be worked in
black, or black and white filoselle. Join, and add a fringe.
_Raised Plait Knitting for Carriage-rug._
(THIS IS EXTREMELY HANDSOME.)
Pins, No. 5. 3 lbs. and 3 ozs. 12-thread fleecy wool. You must have a
third pin pointed at both ends. This costs 25s.
Cast on 20, and knit 6 plain rows.
Seventh row—knit 4, pearl 4, turn round, and knit and pearl these 4
alternately until 11 rows are done. An easy way of counting is to look
at the side of the small strip, where there ought to be 7 large chains.
When 11 rows are done you slip these 4 stitches on to the third pin,
which you must keep on the right-hand side of your knitting.
[Illustration]
Pearl 4 stitches on the right-hand pin off the 2nd pin on the left,
leaving the 3rd pointed pin hanging down over the right side of the
knitting; then pearl the 4 stitches on the above-mentioned 3rd pin;
pearl 4, knit 4.
Eighth row—plain knitting.
Ninth row—knit 4, pearl 12, knit 4.
Tenth row—knit 8, turn round, and pearl and knit these 4 alternately
until 11 rows are done. Slip them on to the pointed pin, and let it
hang down over the right side of the knitting. Knit 4 stitches on the
right-hand pin off the left one; then knit the 4 on the double-pointed
pin; knit the remainder.
Eleventh row—knit 4, pearl 12, knit 4.
Twelfth row—plain knitting.
Repeat from the 7th row until one yard and a half are done; knit 6
plain rows and cast off. You must knit 5 stripes, three scarlet and two
white, and join with Berlin or Scotch fingering. Put a fringe, which
must be crocheted on. Take about 24 inches of wool, double it, insert
the crochet-needle in a stitch of the couvre-pied and pull the ends of
the wool through the loop, and tighten gently with the fingers.
_Baby’s Berceaunette Cover._
Long wooden pins, No. 10. 1 lb. pink and 1 lb. white, 4-thread fleecy.
Costs 15s. with lining.
Cast on 7 stitches with pink, 7 with white; continue to cast on
alternately 7 in each colour until you have 147 altogether. Do * 7
stitches in pink, 7 in white. Repeat 3rd row, 7 pink stitches, and pass
the wool in front; then go on with the white. Continue this knitting,
and when 7 rows are done do white over the pink squares and pink over
the white; you thus make regular rows of squares. You must be careful
always to pass the wool after every alternate row to the front of the
knitting, so as to have all the long threads on the wrong side: care
must be taken not to pull these threads too tightly in passing from one
coloured square to another. Make a fringe, and line carefully with pink
silk.
Several of the couvrette patterns would make the above, and nearly all
the fancy stitches would be pretty done in stripes of pink and white.
_Knitted Quilt._
In stripes with cross-stitch sprigs.
Bone pins No. 6, and 4 lb. 6-thread fleecy, scarlet and white.
Cast on 12 stitches; knit a stripe of plain knitting, 208 rows long.
Now work about 17 sprigs or any other pattern on it, in bright
filoselle silk (see page 10), leaving 10 rows between each pattern. Now
knit a scarlet stripe 108 rows long. This stripe has no sprigs worked
on it. Do 10 scarlet and 9 white stripes, and join together.
_Hearth-Rug._
This must be made in squares and then sewn together. Cast on with
ordinary twine and steel pins any even number of stitches. Have ready
narrow pieces of cloth, about 2¾ inches long and ½ inch broad. Knit one
plain row. Second row, slip one; * put a strip of cloth between the two
needles and knit a stitch; then turn the end of cloth up again so that
both ends may come on the right side. Knit a stitch. Repeat from *. The
next row plain. You must pull this knitting rather tight.
The cloth can be bought of almost any tailor by the pound of scraps. It
makes a pretty border to put scarlet stripes at regular intervals.
_Loop Knitting._
This knitting leaves loops on one side, and is very pretty and warm for
quilts, couvrettes, &c.
Cast on, in 6-thread fleecy and pins No. 7, any number of stitches. Do
not slip the first stitch, but always knit it.
First row—plain knitting.
Second row—put the wool round the needle as if you were going to knit a
plain stitch, but instead of knitting let the wool hang straight down
over the forefinger of the left hand; wind it round and put it for the
second time over the right needle. Wind the wool a second time round
the finger, and for the third time put it round the needle; and now
knit this stitch, which ought to have the appearance of three in one.
Repeat. The next row plain. Do about six rows plain and then repeat
with the loops; of course you must only make them on one side of the
knitting, and they will require a little pulling to keep them in the
right place. This is handsome in stripes of shaded red.
_Fringe._
Berlin wool or cotton. Pins, No. 14.
Cast on 14. Knit the desired length, cast off 4 stitches, and then
unravel all the rest.
_Woollen Fringe._
(VERY HANDSOME.)
Have some ends ready cut, and cast on 7 stitches.
First row—knit 1, bring the wool forward, knit 2 together; take one of
the lengths and double it, hang it on the right-hand needle, knit 2
stitches, bring the double ends of wool forward, knit 1 stitch, put the
end back, and knit the last stitch.
Second row—knit every stitch plain, taking up with the 4th stitch the
loop of fringe wool, and being careful not to split either of them.
Continue to the end of the row plain.
Third row—the same as 1st.
Fourth row—the same as 2nd. Repeat.
_Lady’s Scarlet and White Petticoat._
(WORN INSTEAD OF A FLANNEL ONE.)
Wooden pins about 17 inches long, and then cast on all the stitches you
require. With pins No. 5 cast on 360, and knit with scarlet for 1 inch;
then 2 inches of white, then 2 inches of scarlet. Now do the rest of
the petticoat in double knitting, or some fancy stitch. (See page 42.)
When it is 26 inches long rib 21 rows in 2 plain, 2 pearl, and cast
off. Knit a simple crochet scarlet edging. These petticoats pull out
several inches longer after being washed.
_Lady’s Petticoat, to cost 10s. 6d._
Both these petticoats take about 15 skeins of petticoat yarn. Bone
pins, No. 5.
Begin with scarlet, if preferred, as above; but this pattern is given
for entire white wool.
Cast on 120, and knit 25 inches plain, then rib by doing 2 plain and 2
pearl for 24 rows. Cast off. Do another breadth; and for the 3rd and
front breadth you must, after the first 12 rounds, decrease at the
beginning and end of each row about every two inches. If you do not
like to have a gored breadth do this one exactly the same as the other
two. Crochet some scalloped edges round the bottom of the petticoat,
after having joined the breadths together. These petticoats are
beautifully warm and last for a long time. Summer ones can be knitted
with the same pins in Scotch wheeling-yarn or 2-thread fleecy, which
are much cheaper but not so nice and soft. It makes a charming finish
to put a border as on page 44. You need only make the petticoat 24
inches long in that case.
_For a Common Quilt._
Cast on with cotton 2 stitches, use pins about No. 14, and increase
every row. Do 6 rows of plain and 6 of pearl, so as to make lengthway
ribs. When half a square is done decrease at the beginning of every
row. When a sufficient number of squares are finished join together
with a square piece of calico between each knitted one. Thus: take a
piece of calico, turn down the raw edges, double it to the size of the
knitted square, and tack the two edges together. Then sew the knitting
and the calico together, as if you were doing patchwork. The raw edges
of the calico must, of course, be turned inwards, meeting each other so
as not to be seen even on the wrong side of the quilt. This is a quick
and neat quilt, but is not so pretty as the other patterns.
_Quilt. Laurel-Leaf Pattern._
Cotton, and pins No. 14 or 15. It makes a beautiful berceaunette cover
in 2 or 3-thread fleecy, and bone pins. The price so entirely depends
on the size of quilt desired that it is impossible to give it exactly.
It is a very handsome pattern.
This quilt is made in squares and joined afterwards.
Cast on 1, and you must not forget to increase at the beginning of
every row.
Second and third rows—plain knitting.
Fourth row—increase (by putting the cotton round the needle) before
every stitch.
Fifth row—you ought to have 6 stitches now. Do 1 plain, 3 pearl, 2
plain.
Sixth row—knit 2, increase; knit 3, increase; knit 2.
Seventh row—knit 2, pearl 5, knit 3.
Eighth row—knit 3, increase; knit 5, increase; knit 3.
Ninth row—knit 3, pearl 7, knit 4.
Tenth row—knit 4, increase; knit 7, increase; knit 4.
Eleventh row—knit 4, pearl 9, knit 5.
Twelfth row—plain knitting.
Thirteenth row—knit 5, pearl 9, knit the rest.
Fourteenth row—plain.
Fifteenth row—knit 6, pearl 9, knit the rest.
Sixteenth row—plain.
Seventeenth row—knit 7, pearl 9, plain the rest.
Eighteenth row—plain.
Nineteenth row—knit 8, pearl 9, knit the rest.
Twentieth row—plain.
Twenty-first row—knit 9, pearl 9, plain.
Twenty-second row—knit 10, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped over, knit
5, knit 2 together, the rest plain.
Twenty-third row—knit 10, pearl 7, knit the rest.
Twenty-fourth row—knit 11, slip 1, knit 1, take the slipped stitch
over, knit 3, knit 2 together, plain.
Twenty-fifth row—knit 11, pearl 5, plain.
Twenty-sixth row—knit 12, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped over, knit
1, knit 2 together, plain.
Twenty-seventh row—knit 12, pearl 3, plain.
Twenty-eighth row—knit 13, slip 1, take 2 together, pass the slipped
stitch over. This finishes the leaf, and ought to be 28 stitches; the
other half of the square is in ribs, decreasing at the beginning of
every row.
Twenty-ninth row—pearl, then a plain row, then pearl a row, plain a
row, plain another row, pearl. Continue thus in lengthway ribs of 3,
until you have decreased to one stitch. Join the squares so that 4
laurel leaves meet in the centre.
_Maltese Pattern._
Strutt’s knitting-cotton No. 6, and pins No. 16.
This is one of the handsomest patterns there are, but it must be
knitted much tighter than ordinary work. Twist the cotton twice round
the little finger, and you will thus be enabled to draw the stitches
quite tight.
When your squares are done, sew them together at the plain part, at
the beginning, where the increasings were made. They ought to make a
perfect Maltese cross. Cast on 1 stitch and increase every row. Knit
until you have 27 stitches on your needle. This completes the first
division.
Twenty-eighth row—make 1, pearl the rest.
Twenty-ninth row—make 1, knit the remainder.
Thirtieth row—make 1, pearl 1, * put thread before the needle, pearl 2
together. Repeat from *.
Thirty-first row—make 1, knit the rest.
Thirty-second row—make 1, pearl the rest.
Do the 33rd and 34th rows like the 31st, and now the 2nd division is
done.
Thirty-fifth row—make 1, * knit 2, pearl 2. Repeat from *.
Thirty-sixth row—make 1, * pearl 2, knit 2. Repeat from*. Knit the last
stitch.
Thirty-seventh row—make 1, knit 1, * pearl 2, knit 2. Repeat from *.
Thirty-eighth row—make 1, pearl 1, * knit 2, pearl 2. Repeat from *.
Thirty-ninth row—make 1, * pearl 2, knit 2. Repeat from *.
Fortieth row—make 1, * knit 2, pearl 2. Repeat from *. Pearl the last
stitch.
Forty-first row—make 1, pearl the rest.
Forty-second row—make 1, pearl the rest.
Forty-third row—now you begin to decrease. Knit 2 together, knit the
rest.
Forty-fourth row—pearl 2 together, pearl.
Forty-fifth row—knit 2 together, put the cotton before the needle.
Repeat alternately.
Forty-sixth row—pearl 2 together. Pearl the rest.
Forty-seventh row—knit 2 together, knit the rest.
Forty-eighth row—pearl 2 together, pearl.
Forty-ninth row—like the forty-eighth.
Fiftieth row—now you do the third division again of 2 plain, 2 pearl,
according to the pattern; always decreasing at the beginning. In the
last row of this division you knit every stitch. You ought to have 27
stitches, and the rest of the square is plain knitting.
It is an improvement after the quilt is finished to run blue ribbon
round the holes which surround the cross, to define it, and bring it
out more clearly.
_Canadian Cloud._
Wooden pins, No. 1; 10 skeins of white and 2 of scarlet Shetland wool.
Cast on 200 stitches, and knit backwards and forwards for 2½ yards.
Cast off. Now with the scarlet crochet a border at the two sides.
Double the cloud lengthways, and then draw up the two ends and finish
off with a large tassel, made in the following way:—Double a skein of
white wool twice, then tie it round very tightly with strong wool about
two inches from the end; cut the other ends, and join the cloud and
tassel together with a crochet cord made of Berlin wool. It makes the
cloud prettier to add a little scarlet crocheted cap to the tassel.
_Rose-bud Pattern._
Pins No. 13 and coarse cotton.
Cast on 19 for the pattern, and two extra stitches, to have a plain one
at the beginning and end of every row.
First row—knit the first stitch, and knit 1, pearl 2, knit 1, put the
cotton over the needle, knit 1, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch
over, pearl, take 2 together, knit 1, pearl 1, knit 1, slip 1, knit 1,
pass the slipped over, pearl 1, take 2 together, knit 1, put cotton
over, knit the last stitch.
Second row—1 plain, 3 pearl, 1 plain; 2 pearl, 1 plain; 2 pearl, 1
plain; 4 pearl, 2 plain, 1 pearl.
Third row—slip the 1st stitch, 1 plain, 2 pearl, 1 plain; put the
cotton over the needle, 1 plain; put cotton over, slip 1, knit 1, pass
the slipped over; 1 pearl, take 2 together, 1 pearl, slip 1, knit 1,
pass slipped over, 1 pearl, take 2 together, the cotton over, 1 plain
cotton over, the last plain.
Fourth row—slip the 1st, pearl 4, knit 1, pearl plain, pearl plain,
pearl 5, knit 2, plain pearl.
Fifth row—slip 1, knit 1, pearl 2, knit 1, cotton over, knit 3, cotton
over, slip 1, knit 2 together, draw the slipped over, pearl 1, slip 1,
knit 2 together, draw the slipped over, put cotton over, knit 3, put
cotton over, knit the last.
Sixth row—slip the 1st, pearl 6, knit 1, pearl 7, knit 2, pearl 1, knit
the last.
Seventh row—slip the 1st, knit 1, pearl 2, knit 1, cotton over, knit 5,
cotton over, slip 1, knit 2 together, pass the slipped over, put cotton
over the needle, knit 5 plain, cotton over.
Eighth row—1 plain, pearl 16, 2 plain, pearl 1, knit the last plain.
Repeat from the 1st row again.
This forms a handsome border, either for quilts, antimacassars, or
baby’s berceaunette cover; especially the latter, done in stripes of
plain knitting, in wool.
_Another Pretty Border._
With Strutt’s knitting-cotton cast on 54 and knit a plain row. First
row—knit 2, * knit 2 together, knit 6, thread forward, knit 1, thread
forward, knit 6, knit 2 together. Repeat *.
Second row—pearl.
Third row—like the first.
Fourth row—pearl.
Fifth row—like the first.
Sixth row—plain knitting.
Seventh row—pearl.
Eighth row—plain knitting.
Begin again from the 1st row.
_Arrow Pattern in Stripes._
(VERY EASY.)
Cast on any uneven number of stitches, according to the width you
require. We will say 13. Put the wool before the needle and knit 6
plain stitches. This makes 7 stitches on the right-hand needle. Knit 2
together. The rest plain. Every row alike.
_Cable Knitting._
This is very pretty, either for the tops of babies’ boots or stockings
in fine wool, or for couvrettes, quilts, &c. in coarser.
It takes 8 stitches for the pattern. Cast on as many as you require for
the width of the knitting, and do 1 row plain.
Second row—pearl 1, put the wool back, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped
stitch over; pearl 1, putting the thread twice round the needle, knit
4. Repeat to the end of the row.
Third row—pearl 4, knit 1, pearl 2, knit 1. Repeat.
Fourth row—pearl 1, keep the thread forward, slip 1, pass the wool back
to its proper place, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over, pearl 1.
Now take the next 2 stitches on a third needle, and keep them on the
right side of your knitting; knit the next 2 stitches, and then knit
off the 2 on the third needle.
Fifth row—pearl 4, knit 1, pearl 2, knit 1. Repeat.
Begin again from the 2nd row.
If you desire your cable broader you need only add on a few more
stitches, say 9 or 10, to the pattern. With 10 stitches you would have
to slip 4 on to the third needle.
It makes quite as handsome a couvrette as the one on page 37, and costs
about the same price. If 6 instead of 12-thread fleece is used, it is
of course much cheaper and smaller.
_Hood Pattern._—Any number of stitches divisible by 2.
First row—knit 2 together, thread forward. Repeat.
Second row—thread before the needle, pearl 2 together. Repeat. Pearl
the last 2 together. Do the next row like the 1st.
Fourth row—pearl 1, * thread before the needle, pearl 2 together.
Repeat from *.
Fifth row—knit 1, * thread forward, knit 2 together. Repeat from *.
Sixth row—like the 4th.
Seventh row—like the 1st. Finish by knitting. Then begin again at the
4th row.
_Pretty Pattern, which forms a deep Scallop._—Cast on 12 for each
pattern. Knit a row, pearl a row four times.
Fifth row—knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 2 together, thread forward;
knit 1, thread forward; knit 1, thread forward; knit 1, thread forward;
slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped over; slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped
over. Repeat.
Sixth row—pearl. These two rows alternately, until the knitting is long
enough.
_Open Pattern, for Antimacassar._—Make 1, slip 1, pearl 2 together,
make 2, slip 1, pearl 2 together. Repeat. Every row is alike.
_Net Pattern._—Any number of stitches which can be divided by 3. Slip
1, thread before the needle, knit 2 together. Repeat.
_Large Holes._—Cast on in eights.
First row—knit 2 together, thread forward twice, slip 1; knit 1, pass
the slipped over; knit 2 together, thread forward twice, slip 1, knit
1, pass the slipped over. Repeat.
Second row—pearl 1, knit the first part of this stitch and pearl the
second, pearl 2, knit the first, pearl the second part, pearl 1. Repeat.
Third row—thread forward, slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped over; * knit
2 together, thread forward twice, slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped over.
Repeat from *.
Fourth row—knit the first thread, pearl the second, pearl 2; knit the
first thread, pearl the second, pearl 2. Repeat.
_Lattice Pattern._
This is very handsome for antimacassars in stripes of two or more
colours, and also for a baby’s counterpane. For the latter cast on in
white petticoat yarn 110 stitches on long wooden pins, No. 6. If when
finished you wish it larger put a border in rose-bud pattern. For an
antimacassar cast on 1 stitch with fleecy wool and coarse bone pins.
Plain knitting, increasing at the commencement of every row, until you
have 22. (This pattern is in sixes, and you must have 2 plain stitches
at the beginning and end of every row to form a border: these must
always be knitted plain. There must be an even number of stitches, 22,
28, 34, according to the width required.)
First row—knit the 22 stitches plain.
Second row—slip 1, knit 1, for the border. * Knit 1, putting the wool
three times round the needle. Repeat from *.
Third row—slip 1, knit 1, for the border. * Take off 6 long stitches,
and pass the first 3 over the second 3, but do not let the latter run
off the left-hand needle; and now knit off these 6 stitches plainly.
Repeat from *.
This may sound difficult, but it is really quite the reverse, as it
merely consists in putting three stitches over another three, and then
knitting these six afterwards.
Do 2 plain rows, and repeat from 2nd row.
When long enough, decrease with plain knitting to match the
commencement, and finish off the points with tassels.
The next stripe, if preferred, can be done in a different pattern,
only you must remember to make the points, by beginning with one stitch
and then increasing up to the requisite number, decreasing in the same
manner at the end.
* * * * *
_Fancy Stitches._
All the following patterns are pretty. You must always cast on two
extra stitches, so as to have a plain stitch at the beginning and end
of every row, and every alternate row is pearled. Always work one or
two rows plain for a foundation.
_Pearl Pattern._—Cast on an even number of stitches. 1st row—pearl 1,
slip 1. Repeat.
Third row—slip 1, pearl 1. Repeat.
Go back to the 1st row.
_Rain Pattern._—14 stitches are required for each pattern. 1st row—knit
1, thread forward, knit 5, slip 1, knit 2 together, pass the slipped
stitch over, knit 5, thread forward. Repeat.
_Open Pattern._ 1st row—knit 1, bring the thread forward, slip 1,
knit 1, pass the slipped over, knit 1, knit 2 together, bring thread
forward. Repeat.
Third row—knit 2, thread forward, slip 1, knit 2 together, pass slipped
over, thread forward, knit 1. Repeat.
Fifth row—knit 1, knit 2 together, thread forward; knit 1, thread
forward, slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped over.
Seventh row—knit 2 together *. Thread forward, knit 3, thread forward,
slip 1, knit 2 together, pass slipped over. Repeat from *. Then go back
to the 1st row.
_Square Pattern, with reversed Holes._—Cast on 10 for each pattern and
two over, slip the first and knit the last in every row. Each alternate
row is 5 plain, 5 pearl.
First row—thread forward, slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped over, knit 3,
pearl 5.
Third row—knit 1, thread forward, slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped over,
knit 2, pearl 5.
Fifth row—knit 2, thread forward, slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped over,
knit 1, pearl 5.
Seventh row—knit 3, thread forward, slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped over,
pearl 5.
Ninth row—pearl 5, knit 3, knit 2 together, thread forward.
Now do every alternate row 5 pearl, 5 plain.
Eleventh row—pearl 5, knit 2, take 2 together, thread forward, knit 1.
Thirteenth row—pearl 5, knit 1, take 2 together, thread forward, knit 2.
Fifteenth row—pearl 5, take 2 together, thread forward, knit 3.
_Leaf Pattern._—7 stitches for each pattern.
First row—thread forward, knit 3, knit 2 together, knit 2. Repeat.
Third row—knit 1, thread forward, knit 1, slip 1, knit 1, pass the
slipped over, knit 2 together, knit 1, bring the thread forward. Repeat.
Fifth row—knit 2, thread forward, slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped over,
knit 2 together, thread forward, knit 1. Repeat.
Seventh row—knit 2 together, knit 2, thread forward, knit 3. Repeat.
Ninth row—knit 2 together, knit 1, thread forward, knit 1, thread
forward, knit 1, slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped over. Repeat.
Eleventh row—knit 2 together, thread forward, knit 3, thread forward,
slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped over. Repeat.
The next row pearled. Recommence from first row.
_Honeycomb._—Small holes. Cast on 6 for each pattern.
First row—pearl 1, putting the thread before the needle twice, pearl 2
together. Repeat.
Third row—pearl 2 together, thread before the needle, pearl 1. Repeat.
_Another Pattern._—Cast on 8 for each.
First row—thread forward, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped over. Repeat.
Third row—thread forward, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped over, knit
6. Repeat.
_Brioche._—Cast on any number of stitches in threes, 21, 30, 36,
according to the desired width. * Thread before the needle, knit 2
together, slip 1. Repeat from *.
_Nice Pattern for the Tops of Socks._—5 stitches for each pattern.
First row—pearl 2, keep the thread over the needle, knit 3 together,
thread over. Repeat.
Second row—pearl 3, knit 2. Repeat.
Third row—pearl 2, knit 3. Repeat.
Fourth row—like the second.
_Very pretty little Pattern._—First row—knit 2, thread forward, slip 1,
knit 1, pass slipped over. Repeat.
Second row—Pearl 2, thread over, pearl 2 together. Repeat these rows
alternately.
_Another._—Cast on six for each pattern.
First row—pearl 1, take 2 together, thread forward, knit 1, thread
forward, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped over. Repeat.
Second row—pearl 5, knit 1. These two rows alternately.
_Another._—Cast on 8 for each pattern.
First row.—Take 2 together, thread forward, knit 2, thread forward,
slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped over, knit 2. Repeat. Every other row
is—pearl 4, pearl 2 together, thread over, pearl 2.
Third row.—Take 2 together, thread forward, knit 3, thread forward,
slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped over, knit 1. Repeat.
Fifth row—Take 2 together, thread forward, knit 4, thread forward, slip
1, knit 1, pass the slipped over. Repeat.
By this time my readers will perceive how much alteration can be made
by merely reversing, and slightly altering, the position of knitted,
pearled, and slipped stitches, and will doubtless be able to invent
many more equally pretty patterns for themselves.
_High Bodice, to cost 1s. 3d._
This bodice is meant to wear under the dress. Three skeins scarlet
merino and pins No. 5, or Shetland wool and pins No. 7.
Cast on 98 stitches, and rib with 2 plain, 2 pearl, for 12 rows.
Thirteenth row—knit 16, make 1 (by putting the wool round the needle),
knit 30, make 1, knit 6, make 1, knit 30, make 1, knit 16.
Fourteenth row—Plain knitting.
Fifteenth row—knit 17, make 1, knit 30, make 1, knit 8, make 1, knit
30, make 1, knit 17.
Sixteenth row—Plain knitting.
Seventeenth row—knit 18, make 1, knit 30, make 1, knit 10, make 1, knit
30, make 1, knit 18.
Eighteenth row—plain. Continue in this way until you have done 30 rows
with holes and 30 alternate plain rows.
Now, for the front part take 60 stitches, leaving all the rest still on
the needle, and do plain knitting backwards and forwards on those 60
for 32 rows.
Thirty-third row—cast off 5 stitches, knit the rest plain.
Thirty-fourth row—you must now reduce for the neck at the end of this
row by taking 2 together.
Decrease thus every other row for 31 rows; you must have 39 stitches on
your needle. Cast off; this part is for the shoulder.
Cast off 16 stitches under the arm.
For the back take 66 stitches, and do 16 rows of plain knitting; then
38 rows, decreasing for the shoulder at the end of each row. Now cast
off 28 stitches for the neck. Cast off 16 under the other arm. Now take
the remaining 60 stitches for the second front, and do 32 rows as on
the other side. Reduce for the neck in the same manner, by casting off
5 at the 32nd row, and then decreasing at the end of every alternate
row for 32 rows. Cast off; there ought to be 39 stitches.
Sew the shoulders together, crochet round the neck and sleeves (1
treble, 2 chain), and run ribbon or crocheted chain round the former.
If sleeves are desired, cast on about 48 stitches, and do ribs of 3 and
3 the desired length.