‘To purl or pearl’ and ‘to seam’ mean the same thing; that is, to put
the wool round the right-hand needle. Thus: the wool hangs straight
down, it must be lifted and placed round the needle from right to left.
You must then insert the right-hand needle into the stitch, exactly the
opposite way as in ordinary knitting.
‘To decrease’ is simply to knit two stitches together. Another way is
to slip a stitch, knit one, pass the slipped stitch over it.
‘To take two together’ means to knit two together.
‘To increase,’ you must knit both into the lower part of the stitch,
and also into the stitch itself.
_Stockings and Socks._
The directions given for silk stockings are worked with Adams and Co.’s
silk, 5 New Street, Bishopsgate Street, E. It is very good, and of
lovely colours. Patterns are sent free, and all orders can be sent by
post. Any uncommon shade can be dyed to order, provided it be not for
less than 1 lb. of silk.
The prices are as follow:—Imperial knitting-silk, the best quality, any
colour, 3s. per 2 oz. skein. Filoselle, any colour, 2s. per oz., or 3d.
per skein of 15 yards. Embroidery silk, 1s. 6d. per oz. Knitting-pins,
2d. per set of four. These knitting-silks are guaranteed fast colours,
and are beautifully bright and soft.
Those of my readers who prefer a coarser knitting-silk will be glad to
hear that Mr. Adams is now making some.
_General Remarks on Socks and Stockings._
For a lady’s stocking it is best to decrease once and increase three
times for the calf of the leg. For a gentleman’s this is unnecessary.
Most of these directions are for ribbed stockings, as they fit so much
better; but if preferred plain, of course the same number of stitches
is required.
You must always remember in ribbed stockings to carry on the ribs and
seam-stitches all down the back of the heel, until you begin to round
it. The ribs on the front of the foot must be continued straight on,
until within an inch of the decreasing for the toe.
The seam-stitch is made by knitting a certain stitch in two rounds and
pearling it in the third.
Before decreasing for the instep, do two or three plain rounds and then
begin.
The ‘flap,’ or heel before it is rounded, ought to be three inches, or
even more, as a long heel wears better. It also makes it much stronger
to knit it double with Angola wool, of the same colour as the knitting;
it can be bought at any linen-draper’s on wooden reels for 2d. One reel
does a pair.
Except for young boys, socks fit quite well without being decreased at
all for the ankle; therefore I only give one pattern on the decreasing
principle.
With silk stockings the size of pins is important.
_Heel of a Stocking or Sock._
To inexperienced knitters the heel seems to present mountains of
difficulty, but in reality the mountain is but a mole-hill after all.
The following pattern is one of the best.
Divide your stitches. We will say you have 50 altogether, on three
needles: take 12 on each side of the seam-stitch, and knit these 25
backwards and forwards in rows, not rounds (making the seam-stitch all
the same); you must pearl backwards, so as to keep the knitting even.
Continue until you have made a flap about three inches long, always
slipping the first knitted stitch. Now knit, from the right-hand side,
the 12 stitches; then the seam-stitch, which from this time forward
you cease to make. Knit 4 stitches beyond it; knit 2 together; knit 1;
turn, pearl until you get to 4 beyond the seam-stitch, pearl 2
together, pearl 1, turn. Knit until you come to the stitch in the
previous row where you turned—you may know it easily by the little hole
which was formed by the turning; you now knit 2 together and knit one
more stitch, then turn. Pearl the next row, of course always pearling 2
together where the little hole has been left, and so on until you have
gradually worked off the stitches. You then pick up the side-stitches
of this flap and the heel is finished.
_To Decrease for the Toe of a Sock or Stocking._
Put half your stitches on one needle, a quarter on the second, and a
quarter on the third needle. Thus: suppose you have 60 stitches, you
must have 30 on one side and 15 on the other two. The 30 must be the
front or ribbed part, the two pins with 15 stitches on them ought to
be the sole part. In doubling your knitting now, the front part ought
to lie evenly on the sole of the foot. Begin to knit the 30 stitches;
knit 27, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over, knit 1. Now
begin the next pin; knit 1, knit 2 together. Continue plain knitting.
Now begin the 3rd pin; knit 12, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch
over, knit 1. Now you begin again on the 30. Knit 1, knit 2 together.
Continue plain. Do two rounds plain, and then decrease again in the
same manner 4 stitches in every round, leaving always 2 stitches
between the decreasing, remembering always to do two rounds of plain
knitting between each decreasing round.
Repeat for two inches and cast off.
Some people only do one round between the decreasing: this plan makes
the toe rounder and more puckered.
_Decreasing for Instep._
On the right-hand side of the heel, just where the ribs leave off, you
slip 1, knit 1; pass the slipped stitch over; continue plain knitting;
and where the ribs begin again you knit 2 together. You must remember
that on the right side of the heel you slip, and on the left that you
knit 2 together.
_Lady’s Striped Silk Stocking._
(MEDIUM SIZE.)
2 oz. black and 2 oz. rose-coloured Imperial knitting-silk. Pins, No.
17.
Cast on 128 stitches in black, do 12 rounds of 2 plain, 2 pearl. Now
make the first stitch the seam-stitch, and do plain knitting until 4
inches are done, making the stripes come quite evenly, one inch broad.
When you have once joined the rose-coloured, let the black thread hang
down inside the seam-stitch; do not break off every time you change
colour, which must always take place at the seam-stitch. Now do 3 plain
and 1 pearl alternately. When 5½ inches are done decrease on each
side of the seam-stitch. Do * 7 more rows and increase. Repeat from *
twice more. When 12 inches are done decrease for the ankle every five
rows until you have 92 stitches. Knit until the stocking is 20 inches
long, and then divide for the heel. Proceed as on page 10; pick up the
side-stitches, and decrease over the instep until you have 90 stitches:
the front ribs must be carried on evenly, but the sole is left plain.
When the foot is 7 inches long discontinue ribbing. Knit 9 rounds
plain, and then decrease (see page 12). The foot must be 9¼ inches
long. Cast off and sew up carefully on the wrong side.
_Lady’s White Silk Evening Stocking._
Proceed as in the former pattern, with 128 stitches, in the finest
kind of silk. Plain silk stockings are the easiest to knit, but when
finished the striped ones are very pretty, especially when worn to
match the dress, with low shoes.
_Gentleman’s Evening Silk Sock._
(AVERAGE SIZE.)
Cast on 108 stitches. Rib by doing 1 plain, 1 pearl. When 3 inches are
done, do 3 plain and 1 pearl for 8½ inches. Turn the heel as on page
11. Decrease at the instep to 96. Carry on the ribs in the front part,
but let the sole be plain; when 8 inches are done leave off ribbing and
do 8 plain rounds. Decrease as on page 12, and when the foot is 10¼
inches long, cast off and sew up.
_Gentleman’s Silk Stocking._
The following pattern is in stripes of black and blue, but it will do
equally well plain. 2 oz. blue and 2 oz. black Imperial knitting-silk.
Pins, No. 17. If coarser silk is used, knit with pins No. 16 and cast
on 128.
Cast on 138 stitches in black, and proceed exactly the same as with
Gentleman’s Knickerbocker Stockings, page 16. Measure an inch of each
coloured knitting alternately: it is better to measure than to count
the rows, as silk is apt to be unequal. The ankle ought to be 100
stitches. Knit a flap 3 inches long for the heel, turn it, pick up
the side-stitches, and decrease at the instep to 98. After the first
joining of the black and blue, pass the colour you are not using at
the back; always change the colour at the seam-stitch: in that way you
need not break off the silk when you have finished a stripe, but keep
on with both balls, so as to join the silk only once. The remainder as
page 16.
_Lady’s Silk Stocking._
Knitted with Adams and Co.’s thickest knitting-silk and 4 pins, No. 16.
Cast on 120, knit a plain round. Knit 2 pearl, 2 plain, for 8 rounds,
and now begin to knit plain, making the first stitch the seam-stitch.
In this stocking you need not increase for the calf, unless you wish to
make it a larger size. If you rib the stocking, begin when 4 inches of
plain knitting are done; knit (or pearl) the seam-stitch, * pearl 1,
knit 3; continue from *. When 12 inches are knitted decrease every 5th
row until you have only 84 stitches on your pins. When the stocking is
20 inches long divide for the heel, by taking 21 on each side of the
seam-stitch. Knit the heel as on page 11. Pick up the side-stitches,
and reduce over the instep to 80. Make the foot 9 inches long, reducing
for the toe as on page 12.
_Lady’s Winter Stocking._
Pins, No. 15. 1 lb. merino makes several pairs.
Cast on 116 stitches.
With Berlin fingering-wool only cast on 98, and proceed as with Girl’s
Stocking, page 19.
_Sock for a Child of Two Years Old._
In merino yarn and pins No. 17.
Cast on 23 on the first pin, 22 on the second, and 20 on the third.
Knit a plain round, keeping the first stitch as the seam-stitch. Do
ten rounds in ribs of 2 plain, 2 pearl. Now do plain knitting, and
decrease twice in every fourth round for 12 rounds. Knit 10 rounds.
Take 14 on each side of the seam-stitch for the heel, knit backwards
and forwards for 20 rows; turn (see page 11). Take up 10 side-stitches,
and reduce until you have 56 for the foot. Do 26 rounds, decrease, and
cast off.
_Gentleman’s Knickerbocker Stocking._
Pins, No. 15, and 11 skeins of best Scotch fingering-yarn.
This is the largest size, suitable for a gentleman of six feet in
height.
Cast on 112, 37 on two pins and 38 on the third pin. Rib for about an
inch by doing 1 plain and 1 pearl, remembering to have the first stitch
on the first needle as the seam-stitch. You make this, by working it
plain in 2 successive rounds and pearling it in the next. Then do
plain knitting for 5 inches. You now begin to rib as follows:—Knit
or pearl the seam-stitch, knit 3 and pearl 1. Continue to knit 3 and
pearl 1 every row until 12½ inches are done. Then begin to decrease
every 8 rows. You decrease on the right-hand side of the seam-stitch
by slipping a stitch, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over. Work the
seam-stitch and knit 2 together. If the stitch to be slipped happens to
be a pearl stitch, you must not slip it but merely pearl two together
on both sides. You will thus decrease 16 stitches, and now 16½ inches
ought to be done. Then knit 5 more inches. You ought now to have 94
stitches for the ankle and divide for the heel. Proceed for this as on
page 11; but as this is a large size, you must make the flap 3½ long,
always slipping the first stitch. When you have turned the heel you
must take up 21 stitches, and decrease for the instep at first every
row; and the last 6 decreasings do every other row until you have only
92 stitches. When 9 inches of the foot are done (measuring the whole of
the heel as well), you begin to decrease for the toe, which takes up 2
more inches; you then cast off, and sew up the toe on the wrong side.
_Sock for a Boy of Twelve._
(SUITABLE FOR POOR PEOPLE.)
Charity yarn, 3s. 6d. per lb. This yarn can only be bought by the lb.
Pins, 14 or 15.
Cast on 56, 20 on two pins, and 16 on the third. Knit 3, pearl 3,
alternately: make a seam-stitch. Rib in this way for an inch. Decrease
on each side of the seam-stitch. Do 7 more rows, decrease again. Rib
the sock for about 3 inches, 1 row plain, and decrease again. You must
now decrease again every 6 rows, when you ought to have 38 stitches.
For the heel, take 9 on each side of the seam-stitch, and pearl and
knit until 3 inches are done. Turn and take up the side-stitches.
Decrease every row until you have only 38. When the foot is 8 inches
long decrease for the toe and cast off.
_Boy’s Sock._
(ANOTHER GOOD PATTERN, VERY EASY.)
Knitted in charity yarn or wheeling-yarn.
Cast on 48, rib in 2 and 2 alternate, plain and pearl stitches. Rib 3
inches, and do the rest in plain knitting until 8 inches are done. Take
12 on each side of the seam-stitch for the heel, continue as on page
11. Pick up the side-stitches, decrease for the instep until you have
38 stitches, or until the foot measures 8 inches in breadth; that is, 4
when doubled. When the foot is 8 inches long decrease for the toe. Make
the foot altogether 10 inches long. Cast off and sew up. This pattern,
which is very easy and without any decreasings at all, fits exactly.
_For a Boy of Fifteen, in Scotch Wheeling-yarn._
Cast on 54. Proceed as in above pattern, without any decreasings, until
you come to the heel. Divide your stitches, knit a flap of 3 inches,
turn your heel, reduce for the instep until you have 48 stitches. Make
the foot 8 inches long, decrease until the foot is 10 inches altogether
in length. Cast off and sew up. This wool is so thick and strong that
it is hardly necessary to do the heels and toes double with Angola.
_Stocking for a Girl of Fourteen._
Scotch wheeling-yarn—1 lb. at 4s. 3d. makes nearly 3 pairs. They are
very strong and nice for the poor. Pins, 15 or 16.
Cast on 69. Knit 14 rounds, 2 plain, 2 pearl; make the first stitch
the seam-stitch. Then 50 plain rounds. Decrease on each side of the
seam-stitch 5 plain rounds. Increase 3 times with 5 plain rounds
between each, increasing 20 plain rounds. Decrease with 6 plain rounds
between every decreasing until you have only 53 stitches. Do 34 plain
rounds for the ankle. Divide for heel and do the flap, 29 rows. Take
up 18 stitches on each side. Reduce at the instep until you have 52
stitches. Do the foot as in preceding pattern, except that this one
need only be 9½ inches long.
_For a Boy’s or Girl’s Stocking, about Eight Years Old. Ribbed._
In white Scotch fingering-yarn.
Cast on 80. Knit 12 rounds, 1 plain and 1 pearl. Plain knitting for 4
inches. Rib 1, knit 3, until you have done 66 rounds. Now decrease on
each side of the seam-stitch. Knit 5 rounds and increase in the same
way. Do this twice more, and you ought now to have 84 stitches. When
11 inches are done decrease every 8 rows, and knit plain until the
stocking is 16½ inches long; then divide for heel. Knit and pearl 32
rows, and proceed as on page 18. Pick up 16 side-stitches, and after 2
rounds keep decreasing every row for the instep until you have only 68.
Work 7¼ inches and decrease. The foot ought to be 9¼ inches long. Cast
off and sew up.
_Gentleman’s Sock._
(LARGE SIZE.)
The same as the following pattern, but cast on 94. When you have
decreased the instep, let the foot be 92.
_Gentleman’s Ribbed Sock._
(SMALL SIZE.)
This also does for a boy from 12 to 14.
Pins, No. 15. Grey or brown best Scotch fingering-yarn, as bought at
Haig & Vince’s, 209 Oxford Street, 6s. per lb. 1 lb. makes 4 pairs,
leaving some over; 2 lbs. make 9 pairs of socks.
Cast on 80. One plain round; make the first stitch the seam-stitch.
Knit in ribs of 1 plain, 1 pearl, for 2½ inches. This is for the top
part. Now begin to rib in threes; 3 plain stitches, 1 pearl. Continue
thus for 8 inches, and then divide for the heel by taking 20 stitches
on each side of the seam-stitch. Knit these 21 backwards and forwards,
remembering to keep the seam-stitch and ribs even: you must, in coming
back, of course pearl 3 and knit 1. When 3 inches or 34 rows are done
you discontinue ribbing, and turn the heel as on page 11. Pick up 18
stitches from the side, and knit the sole plain, but continue the 10
ribs on the 2 front pins. When 2 rounds are done, decrease every round
until you have only 70 stitches; then knit until the foot is 7½ inches
long. You now discontinue ribbing. Do 8 rounds plain, and then decrease
for the toe as on page 12. This takes up 2 more inches, and your sock
ought now to be 10 inches long. Cast off and sew up.
_Baby’s Boot._
This is a very pretty pattern indeed. It must be knitted on two pins,
No. 16: ½ oz. pink Andalusian and ½ oz. white are required.
Cast on 50 stitches with the pink.
First row—knit plain.
Second row—knit the 3 first stitches; * pearl 2, knit 2. Repeat from *
until you come to the last 3 stitches, which must be knitted.
Repeat this row twice.
Fifth row—plain.
Sixth row—pearl.
Seventh row—slip the first stitch, * take 2 together. Repeat from *;
knit the last stitch.
Eighth row—slip the first stitch, * put the wool over the needle to
increase; knit 1; repeat from *. In this way you ought to have 50
stitches on your needles.
Ninth row—knit every stitch.
Tenth row—pearl every stitch.
Eleventh row—slip 1, take 2 together; continue to knit 2 together until
you come to the last stitch, which must be knitted.
Twelfth row—the same as eighth.
Thirteenth row—plain knitting.
Fourteenth row—pearl.
Now join the white wool. Do 9 rows of ribbed knitting, but remember to
do 3 plain stitches both at the beginning and end of every row.
Tenth row—plain knitting.
Eleventh row—pearl.
Twelfth row—slip the first stitch, * take 2 together. Repeat from *;
knit the last stitch.
Thirteenth row—slip the first stitch, * pass the wool over the needle,
knit one; repeat from *. You ought now to have 50 stitches.
Fourteenth row—plain knitting.
Fifteenth row—pearl.
Repeat these four rows three times, so as to have four rows of
ornamental holes. Join the pink wool.
Sixteenth row—slip 1, take 2 together; knit 10, take 2 together; knit
20, take 2 together; knit 10, take 2 together.
Second row—knit plain.
Third row—slip one, take 2 together; continue to knit plain until you
come to the 3rd and 2nd from the end, which must be knitted together.
Fourth row—plain knitting.
Fifth row—knit 14. Join the white, knit 16; turn round and work on
those 16 stitches in white, leaving the pink on the needle without
working them. Pearl a row, and knit a row.
Then, slip the 1st stitch,* take 2 together; repeat from *.
The next row slip 1, and increase before every stitch by passing the
wool over the needle: you ought now to have 16 stitches.
Knit a row, pearl a row. Repeat these 4 rows 4 times.
You ought now to have 5 rows of ornamental holes. Cast off the white,
and go on with the pink on the right-hand side. Pick up 11 stitches
from the side of the white flap, make 11 stitches. Knit 14 rows.
Fifteenth row—*, slip the 1st stitch, take 2 together. This ought to be
at the toe. The rest plain.
Sixteenth row—plain knitting.
Seventeenth row—slip 1, take 2 together, the rest of the row being
plain knitting.
Eighteenth row—plain.
Nineteenth row—slip 1, take 2 together: take 2 together again; the rest
plain knitting until you come to within 3 of the end, when you knit 2
together, the last stitch plain.
Twentieth row—knit plain.
Twenty-first row—slip the 1st, knit 2 together; knit 2 together again;
continue plain knitting to within 5 of the heel, when you knit the 5th
and 4th together; knit the 3rd and 2nd together, and the last stitch
plain.
Twenty-second row—knit plain.
Twenty-third row—slip the 1st, knit 2 together; knit 2 together again;
plain knitting till the 2nd and 3rd from the end, which you must knit
together.
Twenty-fourth row—plain.
Twenty-fifth row—slip 1, take 2 together, the remainder plain.
Twenty-sixth row—plain.
Twenty-seventh row—slip 1, knit 2 together, the rest plain.
Twenty-eighth row—plain, cast off.
[Illustration]
Pick up 11 stitches of pink at _c_ to form the toe.
First row—knit plain. Then increase at the toe until you have 18
stitches. Knit 3 rows plain.
Decrease every other time at the toe, until you have only 11 stitches.
Pick up 11 white stitches at the side of flap _d_, still knitting with
pink wool, and take up the 14 stitches at _e_.
Knit 14 rows in pink. Go back to * at the 15th row, and end at the 28th
row.
This is rather a difficult pattern, but when finished quite repays one
for the trouble taken.
_Baby’s Boot._
(A VERY EASY PATTERN.)
White Berlin, and pins No. 13.
Cast on 30; and, if speed be a desirability, the entire sock may be
done in plain knitting, but the following way is far prettier. Knit the
1st row; then do 24 rows for the leg, in any fancy stitch you like; the
last row,* knit 2, wool over the needle, take 2 together. Repeat from
*. This forms holes, into which ribbon must afterwards be run.
Twenty-fifth row.—From this time forward you must knit 1, pearl 1;
reversed every third row, to make a kind of dice pattern. Cast on 11
extra stitches at the end of each of the next two rows, making 52
in all. Increase at the beginning of every row until there are 62
stitches; do 4 plain rows; then decrease in the same way until you have
only 52 again. Cast off and sew up. Crochet a double scallop at the top
in blue Andalusian, to give a little finish.
_Double Knitting._
Cast on any number of stitches.
Knit a plain row.
Second row—slip the 1st stitch, knit the 2nd in the usual manner, _but_
put the thread twice round the needle. Then bring the thread forward as
if you were going to pearl, only _do not_ pearl, but take the stitch
off, and put the wool in front of the stitch back to its place. Then
begin again and knit a stitch with wool twice round the needle.
Third row—knit the first stitch. Bring the wool forward, and take off
the long stitch, putting the thread down in front. Knit the short
stitch, putting the thread twice round the needle.
_Double Knitting with Four Pins._
Cast on twice the number of stitches you wish to have on the right side
of the knitting.
* Bring the wool forward, slip 1, put the thread back, knit 1, putting
the thread twice round the needle. Repeat from *.
Second round—pearl, putting the thread twice round the needle, put the
wool back to the other side, and then slip the long stitch. Repeat
these two stitches.
You must be very careful in changing these rows, as otherwise it joins.
A good plan is to tie a piece of red wool where the pattern begins. Of
course the pattern interlaces at the 1st stitch, but otherwise it ought
to be quite separate.
Third round—the same as 1st.
Fourth row—the same as 2nd.
_Comforters, to cost 2s._
Double knitting is most useful for boys’ comforters.
Cast on 60 stitches with pins No. 6, and Berlin fingering or any soft
wool, and continue to knit backwards and forwards until the desired
length is attained. White or scarlet double Berlin is very warm and
soft.
_A Night-Sock or Carriage-Sock, in Double Knitting._
[Illustration]
This pattern does for a grown-up person if tolerably large bone needles
are used.
The above figure shows the sock completed but not sewn up.
Cast on 80 stitches. Double knitting for 13 rows.
Fourteenth row—double knit 63, plain knit the rest.
Fifteenth row—take off the 17 plain-knitted stitches, double knit 46,
plain knit to the end.
Sixteenth row—take off the 17 plain stitches.
Continue double knitting for 13 or 14 rows. Now 1 plain and 1 pearl row.
Knit 1, knit 2 together; knit 6 plain stitches. Repeat to the end of
the row.
Pearl 1 row.
Knit 1, knit 2 together, 5 plain. Repeat to the end of the row.
Pearl 1 row.
Knit 1, knit 2 together, 5 plain. Repeat.
Knit 1, knit 2 together, 4 plain; repeat until 12 stitches are left,
and cast off, leaving a long thread. Fold the work together and sew it
up at the heel; gather it a little in the sewing at the toe. This may
seem an odd shape, but it fits very well when on the foot.
_Gentleman’s Waistcoat._
(MEDIUM SIZE. FOR A YOUNG MAN.)
Steel pins, No. 10. ½ lb. dark claret-coloured double Berlin wool, at
6s. 6d.
Cast on 60 stitches.
First row—1 plain, 1 pearl. Repeat.
You must be careful always to pearl where, in the preceding row, you
worked a plain stitch. Every row is alike. When you have knitted it
long enough, work another side in the same manner, and send it to a
tailor to make up. This knitting will not run down when cut.
_Another._
(LARGER OR SMALLER SIZE.)
As sizes vary so much, a good plan to ensure a nice fit is to measure
the front of a waistcoat at the broadest part, and then for every inch
allow 6 stitches in double Berlin wool, with steel pins No. 10.
Thus: suppose your waistcoat ought to measure 11 inches across, you
must cast on 66 stitches; and for the turnings in you had better allow
9 stitches: altogether, 75 stitches.
_Ermine Muffatee._
1 oz. white and 1 oz. scarlet, 1 skein black, 1 skein yellow Berlin
wool; 4 pins, No. 17.
Cast on 20 on 2 needles, and 23 on the 3rd. Knit 2 inches in ribs of
3 plain, 3 pearl. Join the scarlet, knit 1 plain inch. Go on with the
white and knit 2 inches, ribbed, 3 and 3. Take a wool-needle, and with
black wool make 2 little lengthway stitches on the plain stitches
of the ribbed part. Then make a yellow stitch between the black, to
imitate ermine spots. Now double back the plain knitting and hem it in
a neat fold. Any other colour may be substituted for scarlet. A bright
blue is pretty.
_Lady’s Muffatee._
(QUICK PATTERN.)
Pins, No. 14. 1 oz. white Berlin, ½ oz. bright blue.
Cast on 20 on two needles, 24 on the 3rd. Plain 3, pearl 3. Knit 3
inches and cast off. With a bone crochet-needle make a very narrow
crochet edging lengthways up and down each rib. This has a very pretty
and bright effect.
_Gentleman’s Muffatee._