_MÆANDER_
[Sidenote: 1851. Mazatlan, Jan. 1.]
Weighed and made sail, running to the southward to meet the pinnace,
expected from San Blaas with treasure.
[Sidenote: Jan. 2.]
Came to at the entrance to the Chamatla River. A nasty bar, impassable
at low water; heavy surf breaks along the coast. Two of our boats were
swamped in attempting to land. Saved them with loss of anchors only.
Good wild shooting is to be had by ascending the river in canoes. On
the banks, near the entrance, were hundreds of alligators. Deer in
plenty were seen on the opposite side of a narrow lagoon which runs
parallel with the beach.
[Sidenote: Jan. 5.]
Pinnace returned. Weighed following day. Came to in Mazatlan Harbour.
[Sidenote: Jan. 6.]
Having made arrangements for leaving pinnace and barge in charge of Mr.
May, master, took pilot on board. Weighed at 5 P.M.
[Sidenote: Jan. 17.]
Came to in Guyamas Harbour. A convenient port for target practice.
Distance from the shore from eight hundred to a thousand yards;
the shot easily recovered. The weather is generally fine. We were
enabled to send boats to distant points to assist the merchants; the
men enjoyed the change. Bowyear, the First, was equally contented
to remain, and, by drill and various exercises, keep the remaining
crew happy and contented. Among the youngsters, a universal favourite
was a son of Lord Ellesmere, now about sixteen years of age. In a
letter before leaving England his father wrote: “It is wrong to have a
favourite in a family, but you take with you the Benjamin of my flock.”
[Sidenote: Jan. 27.]
In the evening, returning on board, I noticed the sad looks of officers
as well as men. Bowyear informed me I should find young Egerton laid
in my cabin badly wounded. The poor boy breathed, but knew me not. I
remained until the end, which came only too soon.
[Sidenote: Jan. 28.]
Among our friends at Guyamas was the liberal Catholic Priest, who
appeared to rule supreme. He had a portion of the churchyard, half a
mile from the landing-place, selected for the grave of our poor young
shipmate, who was there buried with full military honours--a firing
party of marines, band playing that impressive Dead March in “Saul,”
which brought tears from many lookers-on. The remains were followed
by the merchants and authorities of the place. Ships in port lowered
colours.
[Illustration: _The Cemetery at Guyamas._]
I was before this too sad to clearly state cause of accident. I
mentioned that the First Lieutenant was well pleased with the position
of our anchorage, as the open spaces, as well as position of land
and rocks, afforded good opportunities for target practice, as well
as for musket drill in boats. On the present sad occasion a mark had
been whitewashed on the face of a huge rock; the boats passing dropped
alternate oars and took shots. We were short of officers: the boatswain
was in the stern-sheets, with the young mid in charge. In unnecessary
haste, the musket of one of the crew went off, with the sad result.
Guyamas is worse off than Mazatlan for water; all the drinking water
comes in skins and small casks on the backs of mules and donkeys from
wells dug a couple of miles out of the town in the Hermosilla Road.
A sufficient supply was so brought down to the end of the pier at a
charge of $150 per ton. The country abounds with large hares, difficult
to shoot, except on horseback, within eighty yards, so they are seldom
killed except with ball--a pretty amusement for good rifle shots. Deer
and wild-fowl are plentiful, but in different directions.
[Sidenote: Feb. 4.]
We landed our whole force with field-pieces for a sham fight. The
spot selected was adapted for the purpose, having a sufficient level,
besides low brushwood and elevated rocky ground for manœuvring. We had
erected stones to represent a circular fort on an eminence, in which
four brass boat guns were mounted, and a piratical flag hoisted to
represent the enemy.
The field battery having been placed in position, the force advanced
to the assault, but, being repulsed, they divided, and by circuitous
marches on each side gained some high ground in rear of, and commanding
the fort, when the field battery, a little in advance of its original
position, again opened fire. The fort was carried, the Mexican flag
hoisted; the band played their National Air, and the army, as well as
spectators, cheered, consisting of the whole population of Guyamas.
[Sidenote: Feb. 15]
Being spring tides, weighed and ran out into deeper water. Came to
in five fathoms off the islands of Paxaros. During our stay here we
received about $400,000, none of which paid Custom dues.
[Sidenote: Feb. 17.]
1 P.M.--The Governor of Guyamas having come on board, weighed.
Shortened sail on passing the cave on Vincente Point, where a number of
our Guyamas friends, particularly ladies, had assembled to wave last
adieus. Mutual regrets at parting. Saluted the Governor on his quitting
the ship. Cheered from the rigging and made sail.
[Sidenote: Feb. 23.]
Came to off San Blaas for water, which is obtained by rolling casks
about 400 yards from the beach to a river, in which the inhabitants of
San Blaas (both sexes) wash themselves and clothes. The water, however,
is better than that at Mazatlan or Guyamas.
[Sidenote: Feb. 28.]
_Champion_, 14, Commander John M. Hayes, arrived from Mazatlan.
Supplied her with stores and provisions.
[Sidenote: Mar. 1.]
Weighed, standing for Piedra de Mer, off which we were to pick up our
boats.
[Sidenote: Mar. 2.]
At noon the pinnace and cutter came alongside with treasure. Sailed,
having on board $868,927; with the exception of the _Inconstant’s_, the
smallest shipment that had been made from this coast. More than three
months had elapsed since the boats and officers had all been on board
together. The long sea cruise before us comes in well to recover from
the naturally demoralising effects of the frequently prolonged absence
of boats from ship.
[Sidenote: Mar. 10.]
Twenty minutes before midnight exercised at general quarters; fired the
first gun in two minutes and forty-five seconds from the beating of the
drum.
[Sidenote: Mar. 12.]
After evening quarters exercised shifting topsails. Fresh northerly
breezes carried us across the equator, giving us fair prospects of a
good passage to Valparaiso.
[Sidenote: Mar. 24.]
Midnight.--Beat to quarters; first gun fired in three minutes and a
half.
[Sidenote: Mar. 28.]
After evening quarters shifted topsail-yards.
[Sidenote: April 1.]
Commenced the new scale of provisions according to Admiralty circular,
a step towards improving the condition and discipline of the seamen.
[Sidenote: April 8.]
Observed a stranger we had seen two days previously was still gaining.
Tacked to try rate of sailing. Trimmed ship; re-set sails and
communicated by signal with her, the _Balmoral_ of Aberdeen, from San
Francisco, bound to Valparaiso. Passed to leeward, tacked in her wake
and left her in an extraordinary manner, proving how much might be
gained in a long voyage by trimming, and a little attention to the set
of sails. By sunset she was hull down.
[Sidenote: April 21.]
Noon.--Came to in Valparaiso Bay. Found here the United States
frigate _Raritan_, and Russian corvette _Oambylea_. Rear-Admiral
Fairfax-Morseby relieves Rear-Admiral Phipps Hornby, who had sailed on
a cruise.
[Sidenote: April 22.]
Sent boats to tow the Russian corvette to sea. Taking in water and
provisions preparatory to sailing for England.
[Sidenote: May 3.]
4 A.M.--Weighed and made sail. Dark morning, lee shore. Vessels at
anchor; both sides in thirty-six fathoms, a long heave up and down. Got
the first of a northerly wind. Got up stump topgallant masts. Carried
our breeze as far as 43° south.
[Sidenote: May 8.]
Exchanged numbers with the _Amphitrite_, 24, Captain Charles Frederick
from England. Frederick strongly advised us not to attempt Straits of
Magellan. Uneasy motion of the ship made havoc among our live stock;
obliged to throw several bullocks overboard.
[Sidenote: May 10.]
After a calm got a light northerly wind. Shaped a course for Cape
Pillar, intending to run through the Straits. As the breeze freshened
the weather came on thick and dirty.
[Sidenote: Straits of Magellan, May 13.]
Running for the land; fresh breeze, hazy weather. 10.40 A.M.--Observed
rocks N.N.E. 11.10.--Another break in the mist showed us land ahead.
Reefed topsails. 1 P.M.--Passed Cape Pillar. 2.30.--Came to in Mercy
Harbour.
[Sidenote: May 14.]
2.15 P.M.--Entered Long Reach. Passed Half Port Bay. 4.50.--Came to in
seven and a half fathoms, Playa Parda Harbour.
[Sidenote: May 15.]
Weighed and made sail. 2 P.M.--Came to in Fortescue Bay. Found an
American brig, and an English barque _Caspar_ and brig _Isabella
Thompson_ dismasted in Port Gallant. A snug and beautiful harbour.
Supplied the brig with one jib-boom for a main-mast, and the barque
with our stream chain.
[Sidenote: May 16.]
4.20 A.M.--Weighed. 8.45.--Rounded Cape Froward. On passing San Nicolas
Bay observed a Chilian man-of-war brig, and American and Chilian ships
at anchor. Came to at 1 P.M. in Port Famine.
[Sidenote: Port Famine, May 17.]
4 A.M.--Weighed. 11.15.--Came to in seventeen fathoms off the
settlement to the southward of Sandy Point. Saluted the Chilian flag.
This penal settlement, under its present Governor, Meños, a captain
in the Chilian Navy, is situated between the prairie, on which cattle
thrive, and the wooded country, containing the necessary material for
building, is likely to become a large and useful colony. It has rich
soil, an agreeable, bracing climate, and a coal-mine within a few
miles, inland, from which a stream of good water runs into the sea
close to the settlement.
[Sidenote: May 18.]
Weighed, and worked to windward. Came to at 11.10 in Loreda Bay.
[Sidenote: 1851. May 19.]
Weighed to run between Elizabeth and Magdalene Islands; got through,
but before we could get into Royal Roads to anchor the flood-tide set
us back. 12.30.--Brought up in eight fathoms off N.E. end of Elizabeth
Island.
[Sidenote: May 20.]
Weighed, and worked up against N.E. wind to the entrance of the second
narrows. Wind heading, worked into Gregory Bay. Came to at 11.45.
[Illustration: _In the Straits of Magellan._]
[Sidenote: May 21.]
Landed parties to try for guanacoes and ostriches, stated in the chart
to abound here. A few birds were seen in the distance, as well as
animals.
[Sidenote: May 22.]
Weighed 5 A.M., and ran towards the entrance of the first narrows,
passing to the northward of the Triton Bank. Succeeded, with the
assistance of a strong tide, in getting through, making two tacks only
towards the eastermost end. 10.30.--Trimmed and set studding-sails.
3.40.--Rounded Dungeness Point.
4.30.--Taken aback. Came to in fourteen fathoms off Dungeness Point.
[Sidenote: May 23.]
7.15--Weighed and made sail on port tack. 9.--Cape Virgin, W by S. ½ S.
10.--Stowed anchors.
[Sidenote: May 24.]
Heavy swell from N.E.
[Sidenote: May 25.]
Light northerly winds; veered round to S.W. and blew. This was the
heaviest gale I ever experienced: wind constantly shifting, the sea had
no time to get up. Our close-reefed main topsail was blown to ribbons,
and a close-reefed foresail was blown out of the bolt ropes. That
part secured to the yard by reef points was blown into knots as big
as a Norfolk turnip, and so hard that neither chisel nor nails could
be driven into it. Of the fore staysail nothing remained. Our quarter
galleries and half-ports were stove in.
Quarter-deck boats had been well secured, but the one on the starboard
side had been so encrusted with fibres of the mizen trysail as to have
the appearance of whitewash, which was only removed by three-cornered
iron scrapers.
As already stated, the sea had no time to rise to any considerable
height. At daylight the gale moderated. We set a spare fore topsail,
reefed, as a foresail, bent and set main staysail.
[Sidenote: May 29.]
Breeze moderated and changed to the northward.
[Sidenote: May 30.]
More bad weather. Split the improvised foresail.
[Sidenote: May 31.]
[Sidenote: June 2.]
Wind more moderate. Bent proper foresail and made sail, wind veering
round to S.W.
[Sidenote: June 9.]
Shifted topgallant masts from stump to regulation. Standing for Cape
Frio, opened the entrance of Rio Janeiro. Observed a barque being towed
out by a Brazilian steam tug.
Being becalmed the _Plumper_ towed us into our anchorage. Met the
_Cormorant_, steam sloop, Captain Herbert Schomberg, coming out; he
having received information from the Consul that the tug _Satrap_ was
assisting a slaver.
The _Plumper_, having towed us to a berth, joined in the chase.
_Cormorant_ fired into the tug, and knocked away her funnel; on being
boarded fifteen slaves were found secreted under hatches, and part of a
slaver’s cargo.
The tug was anchored and placed under a guard. The barque got away, but
_Plumper_ put a shot into her. The Commander-in-Chief, Rear-Admiral
Barrington Reynolds, was absent at Monte Video.
Found here _Tweed_, sloop, 18, Commander Lord Francis Russell. She had
been my first ship: then a 28-gun donkey frigate!
There was also a heavy-looking French frigate _Penelope_. Also two
handsome Spanish corvettes, _Esmeralda_ and _Arragon_, said to have
been built on White’s lines, the United States corvette _Dale_, and a
Dutch brig. Saluted the Brazilian flag, 21 guns.
[Sidenote: June 12.]
4.30 A.M.--Weighed and ran out of the harbour with a light land breeze.
[Sidenote: July 5.]
Gave the ship her last coat of paint, and remounted carronades; neither
useful nor ornamental.
[Sidenote: July 28.]
Arrived at Spithead. Saluted the flag of Admiral the Hon. Sir T.
Bladen-Capel, K.C.B. The steam tender _Sprightly_ came off for our
freight, $900,000, consigned to my friend E. Casher, for transhipment
to the Bank of England. At sunset weighed for Chatham.
[Sidenote: July 29.]
Anchored at Sheerness. Saluted flag of Vice-Admiral the Hon. Josceline
Percy. Glad to again renew an acquaintance which commenced when I
commanded _Childers_ in Mediterranean and was renewed at the Cape in
the _Dido_, when Sir Josceline was Commander-in-Chief.
[Sidenote: July 30.]
Paying off commencing. Sad to think out of 360 fine fellows, only 150
are left!