SYDNEY
[Sidenote: 1850. April 26.]
Made at noon the south head of Botany Bay.
3 P.M.--Between the heads entering Port Jackson. While running up,
exchanged numbers with the _Havannah_, 20, Captain J. E. Erskine, and
the _Rattlesnake_.
Came to in Farm Cove; making a running moor. I now heard of the death
of my dear father.
My old friend Erskine was in charge of the Australian station, and
naturally felt jealous of the intrusion of a captain who was his senior.
It was far from me to interfere, but the death of poor Owen Stanley
obliged me to open the directions of the Hydrographical Office before
he could be buried. In fact, I was recalled from a tour I was enjoying
with Sir Charles Fitzroy.
The Hydrographical instructions were simple enough, stating, in
case of the death of the captain, or any other, the officer who was
to succeed. Acting upon them, I gave Lieutenant Yule orders to take
command of the _Rattlesnake_. This offended Erskine; who informed me
that, on my departure for the Pacific, he would supersede my acting
order.
[Sidenote: May 2.]
The _Rattlesnake’s_ time was up, so I gave her the order to return to
England, and remained in harbour long enough to give her twenty-four
hours’ start. She sailed May 2.
[Illustration: _The_ Rattlesnake]
[Sidenote: May 3.]
We left Port Jackson in continuation of our route for Port Nicholson
and Auckland; but, the wind heading, we stood for Norfolk Island, which
we made on the evening of May 7; and hove to.
[Sidenote: May 8.]
Next morning some of the officers started in a whale-boat that had
been sent by the Governor. There being an awkward sea running, they
capsized off the end of the rickety pier. Owing to precautions taken
and the activity of convicts, no lives lost. Unaware of this accident,
I followed with young Leicester in the gig, and, waiting for an
auspicious moment, we landed safely.
From outside, Norfolk Island has the appearance of a lonely rock, but
is very different on shore.
Mr. Price, the Governor, kindly took us a charming ride to Mount Pitt,
and showed us the military barracks, which are capable of holding a
regiment.
The convict houses are three storeys high, fitted for all sorts and
conditions of men; some it was necessary to confine in huge iron cages.
Their language, addressed to us strangers, was uncommon strong! There
were 115 of these ruffians separately confined. I saw three chapels,
Protestant and Catholic. Every trade was encouraged: shoes, boots,
coats, and trousers that would have caused envy in the bosoms of Hoby
and Stultz. I was glad when the Governor took us to higher land and
change of scene.
We were soon passing through orange and lemon groves and wooded scenery.
The fir peculiar to the island was conspicuous. The india-rubber tree
was in full force. Some of the officers from the ship had joined us.
The youngsters soon found out that, by striking the drooping plant with
a stick, the juice ran out like cream, which no marine servant could
extract from a uniform cloth jacket. To spoil this fun the Governor
thought it advisable, unless we liked to remain the night, that we
should be getting down to the boats. The same whaler took them off. I
preferred the gig in which we had landed.
Every precaution was taken by the Governor and his officers in case of
a capsize. In addition to convicts in cork-jackets, there were others
with large round corks netted over with long cords attached, that could
be thrown a great distance.
In the gig, in addition to young Leicester Keppel, I had some
fir-plants of the island, and other odds and ends. Our boat bow was
scarcely abreast of the pier head, when a roller lifted the bow into
the air and turned over on us.
The only precaution I had taken was to get rid of my uniform jacket. I
believe a capsize is always great fun for the convicts. On my asking to
whom I was indebted for my life, a convict informed me that his name
was Emerson, and that he had been in the service of my father.
[Illustration: _Rescue by Convicts. Norfolk Island._]
I found later that Emerson had been employed at Newmarket, and having
“done his horses down,” was taking a stroll in the evening when he
came across an old gentleman who did not seem to know his way, and
“borrowed his watch.” I had three sovereigns in my pocket, and offered
them to him, but he said they were no more use to him than the same
number of buttons! I mentioned his case to the Governor, who would see
to it.
Norfolk Island was, in 1787, colonized by Captain Philip King, R.N., by
free settlers and prisoners from New South Wales. In 1809 a combined,
but unsuccessful attempt was made by the settlers, the military, and
the prisoners, to take possession of the island.
Our second attempt to reach the ship was successful. At sunset filled,
and made sail.
[Sidenote: May 11.]
If my readers are sick of the sea, or sea-sick, I advise them to skip
the journal until the 19th of June.
Since leaving Norfolk Island, the wind, with a strong lee set,
prevented our reaching Auckland by the northern route.
[Sidenote: May 19.]
We entered Cook’s Straits, and in the evening came to off Port
Nicholson.
[Sidenote: May 20.]
10 A.M.--Weighed and attempted to work up under double-reefed topsails,
with topgallant sails over, but were obliged to come to again with
both bower-anchors between Barrett reef and the eastern shore in the
afternoon.
[Sidenote: May 21.]
Wind lulled, weighed, ran up, and came to in Lampton Harbour. Found our
fore-yard sprung.
[Sidenote: May 24.]
At noon fired a royal salute in commemoration of Her Majesty’s Birthday.
[Sidenote: May 25.]
Weighed and made sail, running down the harbour. Before, however, we
could get clear of Pencarrow Head, we were met by a strong southerly
breeze; reefed topsails, and worked out by sunset.
The breeze outside freshened to a gale, against which we worked all
night!
[Sidenote: New Zealand, May 26.]
At daylight found ourselves off Cape Porirua; bore up. At 10.30 A.M.
came to with both bower-anchors in 23 fathoms, off Kapiti Island. The
anchorage none of the best, but any port in such a storm as that we had
just taken shelter from.
[Sidenote: May 28.]
Weighed at 5 A.M. to a light N.E. wind, and ran along the land.
[Sidenote: June 2.]
Came to in 7 fathoms in Waitemata Harbour.
Port Nicholson and Auckland are both splendid harbours.
Much to be done, which British capital and enterprise will achieve. At
present there is neither watering nor landing-place. As a proof of the
latter, the port captain at Auckland visited the ship in a pair of long
jack boots--his usual costume! These colonies are rapidly rising into
importance.
[Sidenote: June 8.]
Weighed and stood out of the harbour.
[Sidenote: June 9.]
Worked into the Bay of Islands. Came to in Kororareka Bay. Did not find
the facility we hoped for in obtaining spars.
The town contains but few inhabitants, and was reduced to half its
former size, by shot-holes in the church and other buildings, made
during the war with the brave Heki. The bay, however, deserves all the
praise that has been bestowed upon it.
[Sidenote: June 10.]
Weighed at 8 P.M., made sail, and ran out of the bay.
[Sidenote: June 13.]
Breeze freshened into a northerly gale, which, veering round to N.E.,
blew hard and reduced us to a close-reefed main topsail.
[Sidenote: June 14.]
First cutter washed away. More moderate towards afternoon.
[Sidenote: June 19.]
Made the land at daylight; not an inviting coast for a stranger.
Fired a signal gun and got a native pilot.
[Illustration: _A Coral Island._]
Noon.--Came to in 13 fathoms off the capital of Tonga Tabu, Malanga.
The coast is bound by a coral reef about 200 yards in width, inside
which boats will float at low water, when landing is disagreeable.
[Illustration: _A Stockade._]
The island is well managed by an English missionary, who had King
George well under control.
In the afternoon His Majesty came on board, and was received and
entertained with due honours.
He is a Christian and intelligent, but rather too prejudiced against
the French for his own interests. The King once got into a scrape.
Drifting about in his canoe on a Sunday, he observed a huge turtle
floating in the warmth of the sun.
His Majesty could not resist the temptation, but quitting his canoe,
swam carefully up and grasped the hind-fins of the turtle; which,
with so much stern weight, could not dive, but was able to make rapid
headway with his fore-fins, and towed His Majesty a good mile before he
let go. The King got severely reprimanded for his desecration of the
Sabbath.
I visited the two schools, crowded with promising children of both
sexes. Tonga Tabu is a fertile island with an industrious population.
[Sidenote: June 22.]
Weighed. It was curious navigation between the coral reefs. Suddenly,
while weighing, a flaw of wind veered and caused our stern to touch the
edge of a coral bank, with 80 fathoms under our chains. She was easily
backed off.
[Sidenote: June 25.]
We started with a fair wind, which turned into a gale.
[Illustration: Mæander _in a Gale_.]
We had not many pets, but the purser had a gray parrot, the right
African sort, who would not talk or be taught, and was voted a
nuisance.
[Sidenote: June 26.]
During one of our frequent squalls, in a lee lurch, everything was
capsized and sent to the scuppers, some of us sent off our legs,
decanters, tumblers, lamps, the parrot’s cage, etc. In the midst of
broken crockery and glass, a voice was calling out “Abaft there!” “A
glass of grog!” It was this much-abused parrot!
Ship under close-reefed topsails, main trysail, and fore-staysail.
Weather soon moderated.
[Sidenote: June 29.]
We were now drawing towards Tahiti, carrying a mail from Sydney.
[Illustration: _Point Venus, Tahiti._]
[Sidenote: July 8.]
Late in the afternoon a sail was reported, which we made out, from the
round sort of baskets at the fore- and main-topmast-heads, to be a
whaler; she had boats in the water. We hove to. She hoisted American
colours: her captain came on board--a respectable-looking old salt,
with gray hair.
Invited him to my cabin, where, with accompaniments of Manila cheroots
and Jamaica rum, we had an agreeable chat.
On his leaving, I presented him with a box of cheroots, saying we had
been six months without European news.
On which he “guessed” that I must be aware of the war between France
and England.
He evidently noticed my astonishment, and added that the French Admiral
was at sea looking for the English fleet.
We shook hands and so parted. It was then too dark to see the name of
his ship. We made sail.
I invited the First Lieutenant to consult on the news we had received.
It was decided that we would load every gun with round shot, grape, and
canister.
[Illustration: _Tahiti Harbour._]
[Sidenote: July 9.]
Soon after daylight we were off the harbour, and at about seven the
English pilot we had heard of, but accompanied by a French officer,
undertook the steerage.
I was so interested at the navigation between coral banks, the beauty
of the harbour, the merchant ships, two fine frigates, with sundry
small craft, that I quite forgot about the guns.
[Illustration: _Bowyear._]
Had my gig manned, and directed Bowyear first to salute the Admiral’s
flag, and when he saw me leaving to salute the Governor and French flag.
He replied: “You forget, sir, that we have round shot, grape, and
canister in every gun. I have nothing but this scoop to draw them, nor
can we get outside against the sea-breeze to empty them. I could not
fire a pistol here without hitting some one.”
I had, however, to call on the Governor. On getting alongside the
flagship, an officer informed me that I should find him at the
Government House,
On landing I was received by His Excellency in full dress, a guard of
honour with band playing our National Air, and all officers attending.
I never felt so guilty or so small.
The Governor, M. Bonard, Capitaine de Vaisseau and Commodore, who
included in his person that of Governor and Naval Commander-in-Chief,
kindly put his arm in mine and led me away into his house, where he
said luncheon would be getting cold.
[Illustration: _Eimeo._]
They all spoke or understood English as well as myself. The luncheon
was excellent, wine to match, and I was hungry.
After a while the Governor drew his chair near to mine, and, without
alluding to my not having fired the usual salutes, stated that they
were six months without news from Europe; and that if ever so small a
yacht or strange fishing-vessel hove in sight, it caused excitement.
Telescopes were brought to bear, and he said, “You may imagine the
appearance of a British frigate----”
[Illustration: _Inland Scenery._]
Before I could commence my explanation he added, “Every five minutes
I am receiving reports of the withdrawal of round shot, grape, and
canister from every gun in your frigate.”
I then explained my interview with the master of the American whaler.
Every one of the gallant French captains rose without a moment’s
hesitation, shook me by the hand, expressing a hope that under similar
circumstances their officers would have done the same!
In due time the salutes were fired and returned, and we mixed as one
family. I have ever found French naval officers perfect gentlemen.
Monsieur Gizholme, Lieutenant commanding the _Cocyte_ steamer, managed
everything: balls, dinners, dances, picnics in a lovely and interesting
country. Brierly meanwhile happy with his sketch-book.
[Sidenote: Tahiti.]
Among guests I had the honour of entertaining Queen Pomare. She had
been, and appeared very happy, and was treated with every kindness and
attention.
Monsieur D. P. Nicolai, commanding the troops, added considerably to my
collection of shells.
I had the pleasure of renewing acquaintance in the Baltic with
Commodore Bonard, with Gizholme, and other officers.
[Sidenote: July 18.]
Having come from the west, owing to our difference in longitude, found
I had a day to spare, which was a good excuse for lingering in Tahiti,
therefore we gave ourselves a second “Thursday, July 18.”
[Sidenote: July 21.]
Pilot on board, weighed. Having saluted the French flag and that of
Commodore Bonard, stood over for the island of Guimo. Came to in 19
fathoms in Opuum Harbour, where we have a depot of coals wasting for
want of covering. This is likewise a beautiful and well-sheltered
harbour with good fresh water easily obtained.
[Sidenote: July 23.]
Weighed at daylight; ran out of harbour. Worked over to Papeete to land
our pilot and pick up their mail. 10 P.M.--Boat returned filled, and
made sail to the northward of the island.
[Sidenote: Valparaiso, Aug. 23.]
After a month’s light and variable winds, saluted the flag of
Rear-Admiral Phipps Hornby, flying on board _Inconstant_, 36, Captain
John Shepherd.
We were towed into the anchorage by the boats of French and English
men-of-war.
There were besides _Driver_, steam sloop, 6, Commander C. Johnson;
_Champion_, 14, Commander John Hayes.
[Illustration: _A Coral Atoll._]
On my reporting myself to the Commander-in-Chief, he informed me he had
two reprimands from the Admiralty--one for the affair at Macao, and the
other for interfering with the senior officer on the Australian Station.
I applied, in proper form, through my Admiral, to the Board of
Admiralty for two courts-martial.
The Admiral informed me that the _Inconstant_ had a freight on board
and was homeward bound, but that I being senior, and _Mæander_ longer
in commission, might take freight out of _Inconstant_ and so go home,
or remain on the station for another year and take the chance of
picking up a freight myself.
It took me but a few minutes to decide, knowing, too, that such
arrangement would exactly suit Captain Shepherd, officers, and men of
both ships as well as friend Brierly.
The Admiral’s was a charming establishment. Besides Mrs. Phipps Hornby,
and her sister Mrs. Parker, there were three daughters. Their son,
Geoffrey, was Flag-Lieutenant.
They were in the house lately vacated by the Admiral’s predecessor, Sir
George Seymour, where they were sure to find good stabling if nothing
else.
[Sidenote: Aug. 24.]
This morning our Chargé d’Affaires, Mr. William Pitt Adams, arrived
from Lima, bringing me a letter of thanks from Lord Palmerston for the
prompt way in which I had acted at Macao.
[Sidenote: Aug. 26.]
Joined royal salute in commemoration of the Prince Consort’s birth.
[Sidenote: Sept. 2.]
At sunset hoisted Admiral’s flag, _Inconstant_ having sailed for
England.
[Sidenote: Sept. 3.]
Matthew Ash, captain of mizen-top, while on leave was murdered by one
of the crew of a Chilian frigate, who was subsequently apprehended.
Ship caulking inside and out, not before it was needed.
Watered ship from the luxury of a tank.
[Sidenote: Sept. 13.]
_Asia_, 84, Captain Robert F. Stopford, arrived, to whom was
transferred the Admiral’s flag.
[Sidenote: Sept. 18.]
Fired royal salute in commemoration of Chilian Independence.
[Sidenote: Sept. 19.]
Kindly invited to join Admiral’s party to witness a rancho: which means
to drive wild cattle over a space of eighty to a hundred square miles
into a strong enclosure.
Our preparations were amusing, especially to our pretty lady
companions, who looked as if they had never been out of the saddle.
[Illustration: Mæander _at Valparaiso_.]
We started after luncheon for our 10-mile ride to Pitama.
The accommodation afforded by our ranchero host was a long low
building, having a floor, but no ceiling, mere wooden truckle-beds to
sleep on.
The Admiral and family took possession of one end, we, the other:
within hail, but outside talking distance.
[Sidenote: Sept. 20.]
We were up early, but the wild cattle were already in a disturbed
state: bulls and pigs, horses and cows rushing across each other. The
rancheros or drivers had been out a week. The ground was rough and
varied, but nothing stopped our fair riders.
It was dusk before half the cattle within the outer ranchero could be
secured. Torches added to the wildness of the scene.
The unbroken horses that had been captured by the young rancheros, and
ridden when their own knocked up, began to lie down.
The ladies of our party, who had ridden the whole day, appeared as
fresh as their brother; but the Admiral, who was as hard as nails,
himself made the signal to return home.
I always regarded him with admiration and respect. He had commanded the
_Volage_ in our Norfolk hero’s, Sir William Hoste’s, frigate action off
Lissa.
[Sidenote: Sept. 24.]
Weighed from Valparaiso Roads on our northern cruise.
Later I saw _Driver_ standing out. She was a full-rigged ship and what
our American friends called a “side wheeler.” Her captain was under the
delusion he could beat us sailing, but our three topsails only were
sufficient to convince him of his mistake.
[Sidenote: Coquimbo, Sept. 27.]
Came to in Coquimbo Bay.
[Illustration: _Coquimbo._]
While cruising in my gig I observed an ancient-looking church, and
landed to inspect it.
Like other Catholic churches it had the usual images; but I noticed
over a side door a white marble slab, on which was engraved: “En el
año 1578 esta iglesia ha sido profanado par el pirata ingles Francisco
Draki.”
Sailed 28th.
[Sidenote: Callao, Oct. 5.]
Arrived in Callao Roads. Found United States _Vandalia_, also _Naiad_
with stores and topgallant-yards across.
Saluted Peruvian flag with twenty-one guns.
Much to the distress of Commander William Browne I had directions to
convert the once beautiful frigate _Naiad_ into a store-ship.
[Sidenote: Oct. 10.]
Weighed and made sail. Observed French Commodore Fourichon standing for
Callao.
A fresh south-easter carried us across the Equator in 113° west, after
which we had a long and tedious voyage.
[Sidenote: San Blaas, Nov. 12.]
At daylight made Piedra Blanca de Tierre: a remarkable white rock, some
twelve miles from the coast, appearing in the distance like a large
ship. At noon came to in San Blaas Roads. Purchased cedar planks for
making treasure boxes.
[Sidenote: Nov. 17.]
Came to in Mazatlan Harbour. Saluted the Mexican flag with twenty-one
guns.
[Sidenote: Nov. 24.]
Saluted Mr. Charles Bankhead, English Minister, on his visiting the
ship.
[Sidenote: Mazatlan.]
An English brig, the _Gazelle_, arrived at Mazatlan with a number of
passengers from San Francisco, several of whom died on the passage from
dysentery and other diseases contracted before embarking. The brig
touched at Cape St. Lucas, where many of them landed and refused to
return on board. The _Gazelle_ sailed; they came round in a boat a
few days afterwards.
At the instigation of well-known characters calling themselves
“lawyers,” and forming part of the Civil Courts of Justice, the
passengers lodged a complaint against the Master of the _Gazelle_ for
ill-treatment, and his having thereby been the cause of deaths on board.
At the request of the Captain of the Port I detained the _Gazelle_ and
communicated with our Consul, who, on investigation, decided there were
no grounds for complaint; but, on the contrary, they had received such
treatment as I should have expected, knowing the high character of Mr.
Wood, the master, whom I had met in India.
At a later date I received information to the effect that these
“gentlemen lawyers,” Gaxiola and Cainow, had made an offer to the
supercargo of the _Gazelle_, whom they met on shore, that they would
cancel the proceedings against his ship for six hundred dollars.
I also heard that a like sum had been offered by them to the Captain
of the _Gulnare_, an American brig under almost similar circumstances,
but the Master not having the money, the brig now lies rotting in the
harbour. I allowed the _Gazelle_ to proceed to sea, offering myself to
answer any charges preferred against the Captain.
[Sidenote: Nov. 26, Mazatlan.]
The Governor of Mazatlan visited the ship and was saluted.
[Sidenote: Nov. 27.]
Foreign Consuls and party were entertained on board. Saluted them on
leaving.
[Sidenote: Dec. 9.]
Sent launch in charge of Lieutenant Oldfield to communicate with
merchants at Guyamas. The pinnace in charge of C. H. Johnstone, mid,
left for San Blaas. At Mazatlan we moored head and stern on account of
tides, with no room to swing. Ciervo Island, close by, is a convenient
place, on which we repaired our boats and landed the blacksmith’s
forge, the men working under the eye of the officers on board. The
centre of the island was tall bush, so that the opposite side could not
be seen except from the masthead.
[Illustration: _Sharks at Mazatlan._]
[Sidenote: Dec. 22.]
Departed this life George Fuller, A.B. He had been long lingering, and
had an extraordinary twist in his backbone. He was buried at the back
of the island with due honours. I was kindly entertained and had a room
on shore, but by day was much away in the gig.
[Sidenote: Dec. 24.]
In the morning the First Lieutenant found the boatswain missing, and,
later, the doctor. He began to smell a rat, but thought it advisable to
say nothing. The dingey too was missing. On my coming on board Bowyear
told me the surgeon, John Crawford, on hearing from his assistant of
the death and burial of the poor fellow, whose backbone he coveted,
was so excited that Bowyear stated that the ship’s company would not
like to have the body disturbed; but the doctor was pertinacious,
promising that he could manage it without anybody knowing. At midnight
he and the boatswain landed in the dingey and hauled the small boat up
on the beach.
[Sidenote: Dec. 25.]
When I got on board, at muster, nothing had been seen of either the
dingey or the boatswain.
At noon an American schooner, sailing near us with a cargo of sheep,
hailed. Stating he “guessed” he had picked up one of our boats at
sea, and casting off the painter, we received our dingey. Doctor and
boatswain hid till midnight and got on board unseen.
The lagoons which succeed one another for several miles in a line with
the coast to the northward were full of wild game. It is difficult to
imagine prettier shooting. The water is not above three or four feet
deep, and sufficiently wide to enable a gun on each side to drive
the game. Care should be taken to drop your birds on the land, as
alligators are in possession of the water.
One of the midshipmen and myself bagged fifty-two couple of ducks of
various sorts in an afternoon.
Snipe are also plentiful. To get at the river there is an extensive bar
to cross, which troubled our boats till they got used to it.