diggings. The richest was that owned by the Maxwell & Rollins company,
near the head of the gulch. In July, 1865, this company had a crew of
ten men running a set of sluice boxes in very rich gravel. The man who
used the fork to throw the stones which were too heavy for the water to
carry out of the boxes, noticed that one small stone that he cast away
was very heavy for its size. Wishing to know what kind of a stone it
was, he went to the pile and examined it. To his astonishment it was
a nugget of gold worth two thousand and seventy-three dollars. All
hands quit work to see the big nugget, and the men on the adjoining
claims came also to view it. Finally three cheers were given, and
repeated several times until the echo went up and down the canyon. I
was about a quarter of a mile down the creek at the time. Hearing the
yelling, many thought that a serious accident had occurred. Soon the
men came down the gulch with the big nugget suspended from the center
of a pole, with the crowd following, and, as they marched down the
gulch, everybody joined the mob: and when they reached the town which
was near the lower end of the gulch where there were two stores and as
many saloons, besides several miners’ cabins, the crowd numbered three
hundred or more. From two to three hundred dollars was spent by the
Maxwell & Rollins company in treating the boys. The nugget was pure
gold with no quartz. It was the shape of a hand with the thumb turned
under. In 1877 another nugget worth one thousand and fifty dollars
was found in the same gulch by Mr. Rogers. The gold of the Nelson and
Highland gulches is the purest of any ever found in Montana.
The largest nugget was found in Snow Shoe gulch in 1865, which weighed
one hundred and seventy-eight ounces and was worth three thousand two
hundred dollars; there was some quartz attached. This nugget was long
in shape, more like a foot than a hand. Snow Shoe gulch is located on
top of the main range of the rockies, and near the Mullen tunnel on the
Northern Pacific railway.
Deitrick and Brother found a nugget on their claim in Rocker gulch in
1867 worth eighteen hundred dollars. Many other large nuggets were
found in different gulches, but these were the largest. The placer gold
varies in size from microscopic powder to the monster slugs spoken of,
and in quality from 600 to 990 in fineness.
Several hundred bars and gulches were in operation in the years
1865-1866, and were producing thousands of dollars daily. Those mines
extended through a region one hundred and twenty-five miles square.
The greatest producer of all was Alder gulch, with thirteen miles of
pay ground. It is estimated that from seventy to eighty-five million
dollars have been taken out of this gulch. Last Chance ranks next.
Many other gulches were as rich, but not so extensive. It is safe to
say that Confederate gulch produced more gold from the same number of
square yards and in less time than any other placer mine ever found in
the state. In the summer of 1866 a party of men took out of this gulch
two and one half tons of gold worth one and one half million dollars.
Early in the fall of the same year it was hauled by a four-mule team,
escorted by fourteen armed men, to Fort Benton for transportation down
the Missouri river. Mr. Lindiman and Mr. Hieediman, the two men who
were the owners of most of the gold, accompanied the outfit.
ROBERT VAUGHN.
Dec. 18, 1898.
FROM THE MINES TO THE FARM.
I remained in Nelson gulch over three years; during this time I did
some mining, afterwards kept a meat market.
I had not the least idea of establishing a home in Montana, and,
in truth, the field was not, just then, an inviting one for the
homeseeker. All of us then were seeking gold and nothing else. Nearly
everyone had made up his mind as to the specific amount he wanted,
after which he was ready to return to the states to enjoy the same.
Many made fortunes and carried out precisely this programme, but others
were not so successful--among the latter myself. I was not ready to
return at the end of the first or second year. I observed, with others,
that our ponies and work cattle fattened readily on weathered bunch
grass, and would live on this provender through the winter without
care or shelter; that the meat of the deer, elk and buffalo was in
prime condition, even in the dead of winter; and that experiments on a
small scale in growing vegetables and grain in the valleys were very
successful, and that the climate of the country gave health and vigor
to both man and beast. In view of these observations, I concluded that
Montana was a good enough country for me to live in.
In the fall of 1869 I came to the Sun river valley and located a ranch
on the north side of the river, nine miles down the valley from Sun
River Crossing, and near the Leaving Stage Station (now Sunnyside), on
the Helena and Benton road. I remember well when I made the entry in
the land office at Helena, that the register said to me: “Well, Vaughn,
this is the first entry made in Choteau county.”
A few weeks later Colonel Baker made a raid on the Indians on the
Marias river. During the years 1867, 1868 and 1869 the Blackfeet and
Piegan Indians caused a great deal of trouble by attacking freighters,
killing settlers and stealing their horses. These outrages became so
frequent that the war department finally decided that those bands of
bloodthirsty Indians must be taught a severe lesson.
General Sheridan was in command of the military division of the
Missouri, which embraced Montana. Direct telegraph communication
existed between General Sheridan’s office and Fort Shaw. In December,
1869, all the minutiae of the campaign were worked out at the division
headquarters, and the necessary details sent to the commanding officer
at Fort Shaw. Cavalry from Fort Ellis and infantry from Fort Shaw were
detailed for the expedition, and the forces were under the command of
Colonel Baker of the Second cavalry, with Joe Kipp, Henry Martin and
Joe Cobel as guides. Every effort was made to keep the destination of
the troops secret. It was late at night when they marched to the point
where the guides intended to take them. On account of frost in the air
and a few inches of snow on the ground they had some difficulty in
keeping the right course. Finally the command arrived at the bluffs
overlooking the Marias river; the tepees of the enemy were hardly
observable, but the scouts had located the Indian villages, and, before
daylight, they were completely surrounded by the soldiers. At an early
hour the firing commenced and before the bugle called a halt nearly
two hundred Indians had joined their ancestors in their happy hunting
grounds. Two soldiers were killed in this terrible battle. When the
news reached the stations along the Helena and Benton road, there were
a few who became alarmed for fear that retaliation would be made by
the Indians. But they did not retaliate; the battle was the best thing
that ever happened to Northern Montana at that time. For several years
afterwards the Indians were very shy, although some roving war parties
of different tribes would cross the country and kill people and steal
horses and cattle.
William Sparks and myself were only farmers in Northern Montana for
several years, although some farming had been done in Sun River valley
as early as 1858, by my namesake, Colonel Vaughn, who built the first
agency for the Blackfeet Indians, which was located on the north side
of the Sun river, about one-half mile above the crossing, and was
known as the “Government Farm.” Here is where Colonel Vaughn, as an
experiment in behalf of the government, cultivated a number of acres
of land, several acres of which were sowed in wheat. It proved to be a
grand success. The colonel estimated that the wheat crop would average
seventy-five bushels to the acre, and so reported to the department at
Washington. A story is told on the colonel that, in addition to his
agricultural report, he also reported that the beavers were so numerous
that the wheat crop was in danger of being destroyed by them, and to
send him immediately five hundred beaver traps. The traps were sent
at once by the fastest express then in existence, and arrived at the
“Government Farm” after the wheat was threshed and put in the granary.
The traps were used during the following winter by trappers, as they
were intended in the first place. It was a good joke on the officials
at Washington, for who ever heard of a beaver eating wheat.
In 1861 Mr. Sam Ford settled and located two miles above where now
stands Fort Shaw. In 1862, also, the following named people were living
on the government farm: J. H. Vail and family, a sister of Mrs. Vail’s,
Miss O’Brien (who, in 1863, married Henry Plummer, the only sheriff
then in what is now Montana; but he was a traitor, for at the same
time he was the leader of a gang of desperadoes, although unknown to
the young lady).
The following is from a letter written by Judge F. M. Thompson of the
probate court for Franklin county, Massachusetts, to a friend in this
city:
“It would give me great pleasure to visit your city, the site of which
I first saw June 5, 1863, under somewhat interesting circumstances. I
was at that time stopping with my friends, Mr. and Mrs. Vail, at the
‘government farm’ on Sun river, awaiting the arrival at Fort Benton
of the St. Louis steamers. Besides us at the farm were Joseph Swift,
who had wintered there, my partner, Mr. C. E. Wheeler, Henry Plummer,
Miss Electa O’Brien, two Vail children, and a hunter-herdsman. I quote
from my diary: ‘June 5, 1863.--About 3 p. m., with Mr. and Mrs. Vail,
Miss O’Brien and the two children in the government ambulance, and the
remainder of the party on horseback, we left the stockade in charge of
the hunter and started for the ‘Great Falls’ of the Missouri river.
The Indians are very saucy and are cleaning out small parties of the
whites, whom they can intimidate and steal from. We feel somewhat the
risk we run in taking the women and children on the trip. Near sundown
we had a scare, as Plummer, Wheeler and Swift in advance climbed the
top of a knoll and suddenly stopping made signs of Indians, but,
fortunately, the moving figures proved to be antelopes. Arriving at the
lower falls after dark, we camped in a ravine, so that the light of our
campfire might not be seen by the Indians. The next forenoon was spent
in fishing and viewing the falls and building a large stone cairn, in
which we deposited a paper claiming that the ladies of our party were
the first to view the falls. (In this I think we were mistaken, as
probably Mrs. La Barge and a friend visited the falls in the summer of
1862.) After dinner we started upon our return to the Fort, and, coming
within sight of the farm, we found that the bottom was covered with a
large number of Indian ponies grazing, under the charge of a guard.
Recognizing them as Spokanes, and friendly, we found a large party of
their warriors visiting the farm. Finding that only one man was in
possession, and he having locked the gates, they parleyed with him at
the front, while some young bucks scaled the walls in the rear and took
possession of the premises, compelling the hunter to cook from the
stores of the station dinner for the whole crowd.
After a full discussion of the situation, by aid of the little
‘Chinook’ I had picked up, and a vigorous exhibition of sign language
on our part, we finally persuaded the chief that it was best for him to
‘clatawaw,’ which he did much to our relief. (Clatawaw means go away.)
On the 20th of June, 1863, at Sun river, Henry Plummer and Miss Electa
O’Brien were married by Rev. Father Minatre of the mission of St.
Peter, Mr. Swift acting as best man, and, for the only time in my life,
I acted as “bridesmaid.” The happy couple immediately left the farm
in the government ambulance, to which were attached four green Indian
ponies.
A few months later Henry Plummer had ended his career upon the gallows
at Bannock.”
There was no farming done by those settlers except gardening on a
small scale. In 1867 John Largent bought a cabin from a trader named
Goff, and built another one near where now stands his fine residence.
The same year Joe Healy built a cabin where now is H. B. Strong’s
residence. Those two men were the first settlers of the town of Sun
River.
In 1872 Ed Dennis, Hod Maine, James Strong and Charley Femeston farmed
in Sun river valley. John Largent had then a store and blacksmith shop
at Sun River Crossing; J. J. Healy and Al Hamilton kept a trading post
on the north bank of the river, near the bridge. They had a large
trade with the Indians.
In 1871 R. S. Ford and Thomas Dunn brought the first range cattle to
the Sun River country, and, for that matter, to Northern Montana.
They had 1,100 head. The following year O. H. and D. H. Churchill
brought eight hundred head. These cattle were turned out on the range
north of Sun River, between the Leaving and the falls of the Missouri
river. The following winter thousands of buffaloes came from the north
and we had to cross all domestic stock to the south side of the Sun
river, and herd them, to some extent, to keep the buffaloes away. A
few years later two brothers named Rock settled near the mouth of the
Sun river and were engaged in chopping wood. Near where now stands
the Montana Brewery plant was an empty cabin which had been built by
hunters (the same cabin, which is made of logs, has been removed and
now stands half a mile southwest of its first location, and is the
property of the Great Northern Railway company). One morning, as one
of the brothers was going to his work, twelve Indians, who had been
secreted in the old cabin, rushed out and murdered him. The other
brother was on the opposite side of the river, the present site of the
city of Great Falls, and saw the Indians perpetrate this cold-blooded
murder, but could render no assistance. After shooting him, they all
made a rush to see which one would get there first to secure his scalp.
Just then the brother, who was across the river, fired several shots.
This scared the Indians and they fled before reaching their victim,
who was killed instantly by eleven bullets, ten through the body and
one in the head. “Scalping” is a cruel practice that these savages
commit after capturing an enemy. They take off the crown of the head;
sometimes they do this first and the killing afterwards. They preserve
the scalp, and the one who has the greatest number to his credit is
considered the bravest and is promoted in his tribe, and often obtains
the chief’s daughter in marriage. It was not long after the killing
of Rock that an Indian, while in the act of skinning a young domestic
cow, was shot by one of the settlers. At this point on the Missouri
river, where now stands the railroad bridge, there was a good ford.
Here the Flatheads, Pend d’Oreilles, Nez Perces, Bloods, Piegans and
Black feet crossed to get to the Judith and the Musselshell country en
route to their winter hunting grounds; returning in the spring laden
with dried meats, buffalo robes and pemmican. It was also a lurking
place for the Blackfeet warriors when on their way to steal horses from
the Crows. In returning the Crows would follow them up and commit all
sorts of depredations upon the settlers along the line of their forays.
As the buffaloes were getting scarce and more cattle were being put
on the range the Indians became more troublesome by killing cattle.
Once, as a party of Sun River settlers were crossing the country, they
met eight young warriors on foot and among the cattle. They were on a
horse-stealing expedition and well equipped with lariats and guns. The
settlers, all well armed and mounted, made a swoop on the Indians and
rounded them up. They took their arms and marched them out about five
miles on the prairie towards the agency; then they gave back their
guns and released them, telling them to make quick tracks for the
reservation. As the Indians expected to be shot, they lost no time in
getting away. This put a quietus on their cattle killing, and from that
time they became more peaceable.
As more mines were discovered and operated, the population of the
territory rapidly increased. The traffic on the Helena and Benton road
was very great during the boating season on the upper Missouri, and
before there was a railroad nearer than Ogden, Utah, consequently more
settlers came into the valley. There were twelve locations between the
Sun River Crossing and The Leaving. We joined together and constructed
an irrigation ditch. We succeeded in growing a large crop of oats,
wheat and barley; as high as eighty to one hundred bushels to an acre
were raised by the writer and others. Also the largest and finest crops
of potatoes I ever saw were raised there.
Now the Sun river valley and its tributaries have developed into some
of the most extensive and wealthy settlements in the state. It has
several towns with populations ranging from one hundred to thirteen
thousand, having schools, churches, railroads, telegraph and telephone
lines, flouring mills, refineries and smelters, electric lights and
power and many public works.
The once hostile Indians have been subdued and are now on their
reservations cultivating the soil by following the plow, running the
mower and self-binder, raising horses, sheep and cattle, and are fast
becoming civilized. Fort Shaw military post has become an Indian
school. The parade ground, where the soldiers used to drill and prepare
for Indian wars, is now used for picnic grounds and for the young
Indian students to hold their Fourth of July celebrations.
ROBERT VAUGHN.
Jan. 29, 1898.
A LETTER TO MY LITTLE BABE.
_My Darling Little Babe_--Your mother died January 13, 1888, when you
were but thirteen days old. Today you are seven weeks old. Your tongue
and communicative powers are tied with the tie of infancy. You can’t
tell papa how dear mamma was loved and how sweet her last kiss was. You
can’t tell papa that mamma said, “Take good care of darling babe,” and
how she embraced you to her bosom and blessed you for the last time.
Neither can you comprehend papa telling you how happy papa and mamma
lived together. You are now sleeping in the cradle, and I am sitting
alone by your side thinking of your dear mother and how she loved you
before you were born, and the pleasure she had when making your little
clothes during the last four months, before she was confined to her bed.
But she has gone to that land where rivers flow over golden sands;
where pearls and many a gem deck the shores. Last night as I was
mourning over her and thinking of her loving companionship and her kind
words, a still voice came to me saying: “Tell our darling babe that we
lived happy.” This set me to thinking that I may have passed through
the “valley” before you will be old enough for me to tell you this
happy tale. But, by the grace of God, I comfort myself with the hope
that you and I will be companions to each other for many years to come,
and that I will have the pleasure of listening to you reading me this
letter which I am now writing. God bless you, sweet angel!
Your dear mother was born near Toronto, Canada, March 19, 1855. She
was the daughter of Matthew and Jane Donahue. We were married August
25, 1886, at the home of Uncle and Aunt Spencer (where also she made
her home), by Rev. J. H. Little. The same morning we left for Helena.
We arrived there next day. It was fair week. We remained five days
and met many friends. Here we had our photos taken and purchased our
household goods--the organ, sewing machine, etc. And this is the time
I had her ring made out of a nugget of gold I had taken from the mines
twenty years before. We came home happy and went to work and organized
our little home, and in about three weeks we had it--to us, a little
palace. And oh! such a welcome she always gave me when I came home!
What a heart she had! So large and pure, so kind and womanly! She
always kept everything so neat and nice. She made me love home and gave
me new thought--how very little happiness depends upon money. Often in
the still hour of the evening we would stroll away through the meadows,
sometimes down along the banks of Sun river, and carelessly hold each
other’s hands. She walked closely at my side, telling me some sweet
words and sometimes rhymes, and often we sang some favorite hymn. And
now it seems to me how beautiful those happy days were. They are like
dreams.
Your dear mother was always pleasant. I never left the house to be
away all day without her giving me a kiss before I left, and she never
failed to meet me at the door to give me a kiss and a welcome on my
return. We truly loved each other. No wedded couple ever lived happier.
Whatever I would do she always thought was done right, and whatever
she would do I could not improve. It was impossible. Anything in the
house, if it was moved from the place she had for it, I could preceive
it at once. Even a picture on the wall could not be moved anywhere else
to look as well as the place she already had selected for it. She was
a perfect mechanic. She was genial. She was gentle and polite in her
manners. A more faithful partner never lived. A more true, affectionate
wife and more loving mother never existed. Your dear mother was a
Christian. She lived and died as such. The first time we met in our
little chamber to go to rest for the first night together, your dear
mother knelt by the bedside and prayed to God to give us grace and
bless us as we started on the voyage of life together. She asked Him to
give us grace to live a happy life, to live so we could die happy. And
many, many times I have thought of her prayers during our happy life,
and of her sweet words, “Tell the folks I die happy.” From that time
until she went to her final rest she always prayed before she retired
at night. Also in the morning she kneeled before the Throne of Grace
and thanked the Lord for his loving kindness. She always had her bible
on the dresser or on the table in our bed room and perused it with
care. She said one day: “If we can’t attend church regularly in this
country, we can be good by prayer to God and read our bible regularly.”
And her motto, in her own handiwork, is now over our bed-room door,
chosen by herself years ago. It is this:
* * * * * * * * * * * * * *
* Simply *
* To Thy Cross I Cling. *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * *
She illustrated on her death bed how this beautiful motto was engraved
on her heart, for among her last sayings was: “Blessed be the Saviour
who died on the cross, and I cling to that cross.” Oh, what a treasure
she was! Our short life together was but a holiday, and a happy one.
And here now, I ask you, my dear babe, let your creed be the bible and
your example your dear mother. If your father is not with you, ask
some one to teach you to pray when you are young, for He said: “I love
them that love me, and they that seek me early shall find me.” “The
same God who moulded the sun and kindled the stars watches the flight
of an insect. He who balances the clouds and hung the worlds upon
nothing notices the fall of a sparrow. He who gives Saturn his rings
and placed the moon like a ball of silver in the broad arch of the
heaven, who gives the rose leaf its delicate tint and makes the distant
sun to nourish the violet, the same being notices the praises of the
cherubim and the prayers of a little child.”
It is He who is the father of the orphan; He whom your dear mother
placed her trust in and who comforted her through life and death.