tricks, but as there is neither magic nor sleight of hand involved,
there is no alternative but to place it here. The puzzle seems
ridiculous and unreasonable, as in performing it neither the coat nor
vest may be torn, cut, or damaged, nor may either arm be removed from
the sleeve of the coat. The puzzle cannot always be performed, as it
depends upon the size of the coat-sleeves allowed by the fashions of
the day, though as a rule a coat with suitable sleeves will be found in
most households. The person whose waistcoat has to be removed should be
the wearer of a coat the sleeves of which are sufficiently large at the
wrist to admit of the hand of the operator being passed up and through
them. Any person undertaking to perform the puzzle in a drawing-room
should first request some one of the company to remove his evening
coat, and to replace it by a light spring overcoat; this being done,
it will be easy to carry out the following instructions: The waistcoat
should first be unbuttoned in the front, and then the buckle at the
back must be unloosed. The operator, standing in front of the person
operated upon, should then place his hands underneath the coat at the
back, taking hold of the bottom of the waistcoat, at the same time
requesting the wearer to extend his arms at full length over his head.
Now raise the bottom part of the waistcoat over the head of the wearer
(if the waistcoat be tight it will be necessary to force it a little,
but this must not be minded so long as the waistcoat is not torn);
the waistcoat then will have been brought to the front of the wearer,
across his chest. Take the _right_ side bottom-end of the waistcoat,
and put it into the arm-hole of the coat at the shoulder, at the same
time putting the hand up the sleeve, seizing the end, and drawing it
down the sleeve; this action will release one arm-hole of the garment
to be removed. The next thing to be done is to pull the waistcoat
back again out of the sleeve of the coat, and put the _same end_ of
the waistcoat into the _left_ arm-hole of the coat, again putting the
hand up the sleeve of the coat as before, and seizing the end of the
garment. It may then be drawn quite through the sleeve, and the puzzle
is accomplished.
TO BREAK A STONE WITH A BLOW OF THE FIST.
To do this two stones are required, each one of which should be from
three to six inches in length, and about half as thick. Place one of
the stones flat, firmly and immovably, upon the ground, and on it place
one end of the other stone, raising the opposite end to an angle of
something like forty-five degrees, and just over the centre of the
lower stone, with which it must form a T, being kept in that position
by a piece of twig or stick of the necessary length. The top or
elevated stone should then be smartly struck at about the centre with
the little-finger side of the hand; the stick, of course, will give
way, and the bottom stone will be broken to pieces.
THE KEY, THE HEART, AND THE DART.
This is a very old-fashioned puzzle, and easy of accomplishment to
those who know how to do it. The puzzle is either to arrange the three
articles in an apparently inextricable manner, or, if they are so
arranged, to separate them without damaging either, or bending the
cardboard out of which they should be made.
Cut out of some tough and elastic cardboard a double-headed dart, a
key, small at the ring end, and a heart, in which should be cut four
angular slits, shaped as in Fig. 18. To arrange them together, the
lowermost cut in the heart must be pressed out so that it will form a
loop, through which the ring end of the key has to be drawn, and so
that one end of the dart may also be passed through without breaking
the cardboard. Then fold the dart in the middle, so that one of its
heads shall accurately fit upon the other head; bring the loop of the
heart back into its former position, drawing it out of the ring of the
key, which should then glide down the shaft of the dart, and hang fast
held by the head. To disentangle the articles, reverse the order of
procedure.
[Illustration: Fig. 18.]
THE PRISONERS' RELEASE PUZZLE.
Take two pieces of string or tape, and round the wrists of two persons
tie the string, as shown in Fig. 19. It adds to the amusement of the
puzzle if one of the persons is a lady and the other a gentleman. The
puzzle is for them to liberate themselves, or for any one else to
release them without untying the string. To do this, B makes a loop of
his string pass under either of A's manacles, slips it over A's hands,
and both will be free. Reverse the proceeding, and the manacles are
again as before.
[Illustration: Fig. 19.--The Prisoners' Release Puzzle.]
As a finish to the Mechanical Puzzles, we will give the key to the
world-renowned
HAMPTON COURT MAZE.
Upon entering the maze, turn to the right; afterwards, whenever there
is a choice between the left and right, turn to the left, and the
centre will soon be reached. Reverse the process in coming out.
ARITHMETICAL PUZZLES.
Under this heading we propose to give some arithmetical puzzles, to
speak of the power of different numbers, to show some of the curious
combinations of which numbers are capable, and generally to give such
examples as our space will admit to explain how the science of numbers
may be made to do service for our amusement.
Among the most popular of number puzzles are the
AMERICAN PUZZLES "15" AND "34,"
which have been christened "Boss." The materials of the puzzles are
very simple, a description that may indeed be applied to all the
amusements dealt with in this section. The puzzles, as purchased,
consist of a square box of sixteen small wooden cubes, numbered from
1 to 16. The box of cubes may be purchased in the streets for a
very trifling sum, or it may be obtained in the toy-shops in a more
elaborate form, but still at a small cost. The popularity of the game
may be guessed from the statement made by a New York toy-dealer to the
effect that in one day he disposed of no less than 230 gross of a cheap
variety. In London, street toy-vendors by the score sold them all day
long for weeks together when they were first introduced, and a leading
toy-dealer in the fashionable neighbourhood of Regent Street says the
number sold retail from his shop daily was enormous. Their popularity
in other countries is equally great.
The puzzle is twofold, and is described in the following quaint and
curt manner in the little boxes sold in the streets:--
_The Puzzle of Fifteen._--"Remove the 16 block. Put the pieces in the
box irregularly, and arrange them to regular order by shoving."
_The Magic Sixteen, or the Puzzle of Thirty-four._--"Arrange the
sixteen blocks so that the sum of the numbers added up in any
straight line, either vertical, horizontal, or diagonal, will be 34."
[Illustration:
+----+----+----+----+
| 1 | 14 | 15 | 4 |
+----+----+----+----+
| 8 | 11 | 10 | 5 |
+----+----+----+----+
| 12 | 7 | 6 | 9 |
+----+----+----+----+
| 13 | 2 | 3 | 16 |
+----+----+----+----+
Fig. 1.--A Solution of the "34" Puzzle.]
[Illustration:
+----+----+----+----+
| 1 | 15 | 14 | 4 |
+----+----+----+----+
| 12 | 6 | 7 | 9 |
+----+----+----+----+
| 8 | 10 | 11 | 5 |
+----+----+----+----+
| 13 | 3 | 2 | 16 |
+----+----+----+----+
Fig. 2.--Another Solution of the "34" Puzzle.]
It would appear that the "15" puzzle has the merit of being entirely
new, a claim to which the "34" puzzle has no sort of right, it being
found in many books of old and recent date. It is believed that there
are in all sixteen different ways of arranging the numbered blocks so
that the sum of the numbers will be 34 in every direction; but two ways
will suffice to quote here, and they are as shown in Figs. 1, 2. The
fascination and popularity of "Boss," however, all centre around the
"15" puzzle; it is the solution of that which is said to have sent some
people mad, to have made more forsake their ordinary occupation, and
which claims to have given to a still larger and ever growing number of
human beings a new incentive to life. The puzzle is fairly stated above
in the words, "Put the pieces in the box irregularly," &c. As a first
attempt, however, place the pieces as arranged when the "34" puzzle
has been solved, and the "15" puzzle may be easily accomplished after
a little practice. To describe the various moves would be unnecessary,
but the object first to be aimed at is to get the first row of cubes,
viz., 1, 2, 3, 4, into their proper places, attention being next
directed to getting the 12 cube into its place; that cube will have to
be again moved before all the cubes have been consecutively arranged,
but it should always be kept as near to its proper position as
possible. The cubes, when arranged, should read as follows (Fig. 3):--
[Illustration:
+-----------------+
| 1 2 3 4 |
| |
| 5 6 7 8 |
| |
| 9 10 11 12 |
| |
| 13 14 15 |
+-----------------+
Fig. 3.--"15" Puzzle--The Cubes in Order.]
[Illustration:
+-----------------+
| 1 2 3 4 |
| |
| 5 6 7 8 |
| |
| 9 10 11 12 |
| |
| 13 15 14 |
+-----------------+
Fig. 4.--"15" Puzzle--The Cubes set for Solution.]
"Boss," or the real American puzzle of "15" is to place the numbered
cubes, as shown in Fig. 4, in the box, and then to arrange them, by
sliding and without lifting any one cube, so that they shall read
consecutively. It may at once be said that the American puzzle has
never yet been solved. But why? is asked by every one, and every
one tries to solve it. Articles on the puzzle have appeared in many
periodicals, but no one has had the hardihood to publish a solution
of the American puzzle. An ingenious calculator has stated that the
fifteen cubes may be arranged in the box in 1,307,674,318,000 different
combinations, and that it would take one individual a whole year to
work out 105,000 of these arrangements, if only one arrangement was
worked out every five minutes. Let the reader calculate at what remote
period the whole of the different orders could be tested to see whether
the "15-14" combination could be overcome. It seems to have been
decided that there are a certain number of the combinations that can be
solved, and that there are a certain number that cannot, and that the
number of each is equal. If, when the fifteen cubes are placed in the
box, the number of transpositions required to place the cubes in proper
consecutive order is even, the puzzle may be solved; but if the number
of transpositions required is odd, the puzzle cannot be solved. For
example: take the first solution of the "34" puzzle (Fig. 1), and it
will be found that six transpositions are required to place the numbers
in the proper order, viz.:--
1. Transpose 14 and 2 4. Transpose 11 and 6
2. " 15 " 3 5. " 10 " 7
3. " 8 " 5 6. " 12 " 9
The number of transpositions being even, the puzzle is soluble; with
the "15-14" order, there being only one transposition necessary, or an
odd number, the puzzle is insoluble. With this information and a little
practice any player may tell at a glance when any combination of the
figures is shown whether the puzzle is soluble or no.
After the above lengthy dissertation on these clever puzzles we will
now proceed to minor topics which may be treated as arithmetical
amusements.
THE MAGIC NINE, OR THE PUZZLE OF FIFTEEN.
To arrange the numbers 1 to 9 in three rows, so that the sum of each
row added together horizontally, vertically, or diagonally shall be 15.
Fig. 5 shows how the arrangement has to be made.
[Illustration:
+---+---+---+
| 2 | 9 | 4 |
+---+---+---+
| 7 | 5 | 3 |
+---+---+---+
| 6 | 1 | 8 |
+---+---+---+
Fig. 5.--The Magic Nine.]
THE MAGIC THIRTY-SIX, OR PUZZLE OF ONE HUNDRED AND ELEVEN.
This puzzle is similar in principle to the preceding one, and consists
in so arranging the numbers 1 to 36 in six rows that the sum of each
row, added together horizontally or vertically, shall be the same (Fig.
6). The sum of the rows will be found to be 111.
[Illustration:
+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+
| 8 | 30 | 27 | 10 | 25 | 11 |
| | | | | | |
+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+
| 35 | 6 | 33 | 34 | 1 | 2 |
| | | | | | |
+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+
| 17 | 13 | 22 | 21 | 24 | 14 |
| | | | | | |
+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+
| 20 | 19 | 16 | 15 | 18 | 23 |
| | | | | | |
+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+
| 5 | 31 | 4 | 3 | 36 | 32 |
| | | | | | |
+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+
| 26 | 12 | 9 | 28 | 7 | 29 |
| | | | | | |
+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+
Fig. 6.--Magic Thirty-six.]
There is a still more complicated puzzle of this class to be performed.
It is called
THE MAGIC HUNDRED, OR THE PUZZLE OF FIVE HUNDRED AND FIVE.
This consists in arranging the numbers from 1 to 100 in ten rows,
and in such a way that the sum of the numbers counted, horizontally,
vertically, or diagonally, shall be 505, neither more nor less. This
puzzle may be set when the Magic Nine, the Magic Fifteen, and the
Magic Thirty-six have been solved. The key is printed in Fig. 7. Upon
a close examination of the key the solution of the puzzle from memory
will soon become quite an easy matter. Observe the rows are numbered on
the right hand side from 1 to 5, commencing both at the top and at the
bottom. It will be seen that the rows numbered 1 contain the numbers
1 to 10 and 91 to 100; the rows numbered 2 contain the numbers 11 to
20 and 81 to 90; the third rows contain all the numbers from 21 to 30
and from 71 to 80; the fourth rows contain the numbers 31 to 39 and 60
to 70, excluding 61, but including 41; in the fifth rows the numbers
run from 42 to 59, and have also the numbers 40 and 61. Furthermore,
note the lettered columns, and it will be seen that the unit figures in
columns A are noughts and ones, in columns B twos and nines, in columns
C threes and eights, in columns D fours and sevens, and in columns E
fives and sixes.
[Illustration:
A B C D E E D C B A
+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+
| 91 | 2 | 3 | 97 | 6 | 95 | 94 | 8 | 9 | 100 |
| | | | | | | | | | | 1
+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+
| 20 | 82 | 83 | 17 | 16 | 15 | 14 | 88 | 89 | 81 |
| | | | | | | | | | | 2
+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+
| 21 | 72 | 73 | 74 | 25 | 26 | 27 | 78 | 79 | 30 |
| | | | | | | | | | | 3
+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+
| 60 | 39 | 38 | 64 | 66 | 65 | 67 | 33 | 32 | 41 |
| | | | | | | | | | | 4
+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+
| 50 | 49 | 48 | 57 | 55 | 56 | 54 | 43 | 42 | 51 |
| | | | | | | | | | | 5
+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+
| 61 | 59 | 58 | 47 | 45 | 46 | 44 | 53 | 52 | 40 |
| | | | | | | | | | | 5
+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+
| 31 | 69 | 68 | 34 | 35 | 36 | 37 | 63 | 62 | 70 |
| | | | | | | | | | | 4
+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+
| 80 | 22 | 23 | 24 | 75 | 76 | 77 | 28 | 29 | 71 |
| | | | | | | | | | | 3
+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+
| 90 | 12 | 13 | 87 | 86 | 85 | 84 | 18 | 19 | 11 |
| | | | | | | | | | | 2
+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+
| 1 | 99 | 98 | 4 | 96 | 5 | 7 | 93 | 92 | 10 |
| | | | | | | | | | | 1
+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+
Fig. 7.--Plan of the Magic Hundred.]
THE TWENTY-FOUR MONKS.
During the middle ages there existed a monastery, in which lived
twenty-four monks, presided over by a blind abbot. The cells of the
monastery were planned as shown in the accompanying figure (Fig. 8),
passages being arranged along two sides of each of the outer cells and
all round the inner cell, in which the abbot took up his quarters.
Three monks were allotted to each cell, making, of course, nine monks
in each row of cells. The abbot, being lazy as well as blind, was
very remiss in making his rounds, but provided he could count nine
heads on each side of the monastery he retired into his own cloister,
contented and satisfied that the monks were all within the building,
and that no outsiders were keeping them company. The monks, however,
taking advantage of their abbot's blindness and remissness, conspired
to deceive him, a portion of their number sometimes going out and at
other times receiving friends in their cells. They accomplished their
deception, and it never happened that strangers were admitted when
monks were out, yet there never were more nor less than nine persons
upon each side of the building. Their first deception consisted in
four of their number going out, upon which four monks took possession
of each of the cells numbered 1, 3, 6, and 8, one monk only being left
in each of the other cells; nine monks being thus on each side of the
building. Upon returning, the four monks brought in four friends, when
it was necessary to arrange the twenty-eight persons, two in each of
the cells 1, 3, 6, and 8, and five in each of the others; still nine
heads only were to be counted in either row. Emboldened by success,
eight outsiders were introduced, and the thirty-two persons now were
arranged one only in each of the cells 1, 3, 6, and 8, but seven in
each of the other cells; again, according to the abbot's system of
counting, all was well. In the next endeavour, the strangers all went
away and took six monks with them, leaving but eighteen at home to
represent twenty-four; these eighteen placed themselves five in each of
the cells 1 and 8 and four in each of the cells 3 and 6; the remaining
cells were empty, but the cells on each side of the building still
contained nine monks. On returning, the six truants each brought two
friends to pass the night, and the thirty-six retired to rest, nine in
each of the cells 2, 4, 5, and 7; the remainder were empty, and the
abbot was quite satisfied that the monks were alone in the monastery.
[Illustration:
+-----++------++-----+
| || || |
| 1 || 2 || 3 |
| || || |
+=====++======++=====+
| || || |
| 4 ||ABBOTT|| 5 |
| || || |
+=====++======++=====+
| || || |
| 6 || 7 || 8 |
| || || |
+-----++------++-----+
Fig. 8.--The Twenty-four Monks.]
TO TAKE ONE FROM NINETEEN, SO THAT THE REMAINDER SHALL BE TWENTY.
See how it is done: XIX. (nineteen), by taking away the one that stands
between the two tens (XX.), twenty will remain.
A similar catch is to write down nine figures, the sum of which is 45,
from that number to take away 50, and to let the remainder be fifteen.
The numerals should be added together thus: 1+2+3+4+5+6+7+8+9=45, or
XLV., from which take away L. (50), and there will be left XV. (15).
THE FAMOUS FORTY-FIVE.
The number 45 can be divided into four such parts that if to the first
2 is added, from the second 2 is subtracted, the third is multiplied
by 2, and the fourth divided by 2:--the total of the addition, the
remainder of the subtraction, the product of the multiplication, and
the quotient of the division will be the same.
The first part is 8, to which add 2, and the total will be 10
The second is 12, from which subtract 2, and the total will be 10
The third is 5, which multiply by 2, and the result will be 10
The fourth is 20, which divide by 2, and the result will be 10
--
45
Again, 45 may be subtracted from 45 in such a manner as to leave 45 for
a remainder. Arrange the following figures, add the rows together, and
each row will be 45; subtract the bottom row from the top row, and the
sum of the result added together will also be 45.
9+8+7+6+5+4+3+2+1=45
1+2+3+4+5+6+7+8+9=45
--------------------
8+6+4+1+9+7+5+3+2=45
THE COSTERMONGER'S PUZZLE.
A costermonger bought 120 oranges at two for a penny, and 120 more at
three for a penny, and mixed the oranges all together in a basket. He
sold them out, hoping to receive back his money again, at the rate
of five for twopence; but on counting his money he found that he had
sold the oranges for fourpence less than they had cost him. How this
happened will be seen by following the accompanying figures. The first
forty purchasers of the oranges would take 200 out of the 240 oranges,
and taking it for granted that the fruit was equally mixed, would
receive for their money 100 of the oranges originally bought at two a
penny and 100 of those at three a penny, and would pay for them the
sum of 6s. 8d. The forty remaining oranges would bring in, at the same
rate, 1s. 4d. only, making 8s. in all. The cost of the fruit was, for
the first 120, 5s., and for the second 120, 3s. 4d., or 8s. 4d. in all,
making the loss of 4d. on the lot. To more fully explain the matter, we
will suppose the oranges not mixed, but standing in separate baskets,
from which, for each purchaser, the costermonger takes two of the two a
penny oranges and three of the three a penny oranges, disposing of them
in that way for twopence; it will then be clearly seen that the basket
containing the three a penny oranges will be first exhausted, for the
first forty purchasers, each having three oranges from one basket, will
take all the 120 oranges purchased at three a penny, but will require
only 80 oranges from the other basket, thus leaving 40 of the two a
penny oranges to be sold at five for twopence, or a loss of fourpence
on the last 40 sold.
THE PROGRESSION OF NUMBERS.
An illustration of the progression of numbers may be gathered from the
description given of the American puzzle of "15," at the commencement
of this section on _Arithmetical Amusements_. It is there stated that
the different number of combinations or different arrangements of
the fifteen cubes that can be made are 1,307,674,318,000. The reader
may prove this for himself in the following manner:--The number of
combinations that can be made with two cubes is 2, of three cubes
6, of four cubes 24, of five cubes 120, of six cubes 720, and so
on, multiplying the result each time by one number higher than the
previous result was multiplied by, until the amazing total quoted is
reached; the arrangement of the cubes in rows and columns introducing
additional variations of combinations. There are numerous instances on
record in which it is stated that advantage has been taken of the known
progression that ensues upon a repeated doubling of a given result. The
_Horse-dealer's Bargain_ is frequently quoted. A horse-dealer having a
horse to dispose of, to which a gentleman had taken a great fancy, was
asked to name any price he thought fit. Wishing at the first blush to
appear generous, he offered to sell his horse, calculating its price
according to the number of nails that were used to fasten on the four
shoes, a farthing being allowed for the first nail, a halfpenny for the
second, a penny for the third, twopence for the fourth, and so on. Upon
examination it was found that it took six nails to fasten on each of
the shoes, making in all twenty-four nails. The amount arrived at by
repeatedly doubling the amount until the twenty-fourth nail had been
allowed for was £8,738 2s. 8d.
The story of the _Sovereign and the Sage_ gives a still more wonderful
result. A king once, anxious to reward one of his subjects for valuable
services performed to the State, asked in what way the subject would
take his recompense. The king and the subject were both sixty-four
years of age, and the wise man asked that he might be granted a kernel
of wheat for the first year of their lives, two for the second, four
for the third, eight for the fourth, sixteen for the fifth, and so on.
By continuing the calculation until the result has been doubled for the
sixty-fourth time, the astounding number of 9,223,372,036,854,775,808
will appear. It is generally conceded that the average number of wheat
kernels in a pint is 9,216, which will give 18,432 for a quart, 73,728
for a peck, and 589,824 for a bushel, or 31,274,997,411,298 bushels of
grain as the courtier's reward for his services, a larger amount than
the whole world would produce in several years.
_The Pin in the Hold of the "Great Eastern" Steamship_ is comparatively
a modern calculation, based on this principle. It is calculated that
200 pins go to the ounce, and that if for the fifty-two weeks in the
year one pin were dropped into the hold during the first week, two in
the second, four in the third, and so on, that by the end of the year
the weight of the whole would be no less than 628,292,358 tons of pins.
As the _Great Eastern_ steamship was built to carry 22,500 tons only,
it follows that to carry all the pins there would be required 27,924
ships of the size of the _Great Eastern_.
As a last illustration of this subject we will instance the feat of
counting a billion, which all boys know is a million millions. Allowing
that so many as 200, which is an outside number, could be counted in
a minute, it would, excluding the 366th day in leap years, take one
person upwards of 9,512 years before the task would be completed. It is
not, therefore, probable that any one person has yet counted a billion.
We next proceed to give a few of the rules showing
HOW A NUMBER THOUGHT OF OR OTHERWISE INDICATED MAY BE TOLD.
These rules and puzzles are numerous, and in practising them in company
it is well to have several methods at command, in order that those of
the company not in the secret may be the more mystified; and, indeed,
those who only know one or two ways will themselves be astonished if
they see others proceeding on principles differing from those with
which they are familiar.
_The Cancelled Figure._--Write down on a slate a series of numbers,
the sum of each of which shall be 9: such, for example, as 18, 27,
36, 45, 144, 234, 612, 711, 252, 342, 261, 360, 432, 315, &c. &c. The
greater the variety the better. Tell some person to fix on two of these
numbers, and after adding them together, to strike out any one of
the figures of the result, and then, upon his stating the sum of the
remaining figure or figures, the figure struck out may be arrived at by
ascertaining the difference between that sum and 9 or 18, according to
whether the sum is less or more than 9. If the sum remaining be 9, the
figure struck out will have been 9. Suppose, for instance, the numbers
selected are 711 and 252, the total of which will be 963; if the figure
struck out of that number be 6, the sum of the two remaining figures
will be 12, or 6 less than 18. Again, take the numbers 18 and 27,
making a total of 45; strike out the 5, and it will be seen that the
difference between 4 and 9 is 5.
In the following methods any number may be thought of, and the
subsequent calculations are to be mentally or otherwise made by him
thinking of the number.
_First Method._--Instruct that the number thought of be multiplied by
3, that 1 be added to the result, the result again being multiplied by
3, to which result the number first thought of has to be added; ask the
result, strike off mentally the final figure, which will be a 3, and
the figure or figures then left will represent the number first thought
of. For example:--
The number thought of is 11
Multiplied by 3, it is 33
Add 1 34
Multiply by 3 102
Add the number (11) thought of 113
The result of which, when told, will show 11 to be the number thought
of.
_Second Method._--Let any number be thought of, which we will
again suppose to be 11
Instruct that it be doubled 22
Instruct that some stated even number be added
(say 54) 76
Let the result be halved 38
Deduct the number first thought of (11) 27
The result will always be the half of the number that was instructed to
be added.
_Third Method._--Multiply the number thought of by itself
(say 11). 121
Take 1 from the number thought of, and multiply
the result by itself (10+10) 100
---
Ask the difference between the two results 21
To this number the player, who is exhibiting his powers, must mentally
add 1=22, and divide that number by 2, which gives 11, the number
thought of.
_Fourth Method._--Add 1 to the number thought of (again 11) 12
Multiply by 3 36
Add 1 37
Add the number thought of (11) 48
Ask the result, from which mentally subtract 4, and divide the result
by 4, which will again correctly give the original number.
_Fifth Method._--Let the number (11) thought of be doubled 22
Add 4 26
Multiply by 5 130
Add 12 142
Multiply by 10 1,420
Ask the result, from which mentally deduct 320, giving 1,100, from
which strike off the noughts, and the result is again as before.
_Sixth Method._--Let 1 be deducted from the number (11)
thought of 10
Multiply by 2 20
Add number first thought of 31
Ask the result, and to it mentally add 3=34, divide by 3, and the
quotient of full numbers will be the number thought of. The above
methods of guessing a number thought of will be about as many as any
lad can remember.
MAGICAL ADDITION.
The following is a peculiar arrangement of the figures 1 to 9, so that
by adding them together they amount to 100:--
15
36
47
---
98
2
---
100
_To find the sum-total of three lines of figures upon the first line
being shown_, let any one write down a row of figures, and suppose they
are 76854. Then take the paper, and, leaving space for two more rows
of figures, say that the result of the addition of that row with two
other rows can be given, the first of which rows may be written by any
one present. Proceed by deducting 1 from the final right-hand figure,
and place the figure 1 on the left-hand side; let the top row be folded
over, and the paper handed back for the second row to be written, which
we will suppose to be 34721; fill in the third row by making each
figure in the second row up to 9 by writing 65278; the figures given
according to the instructions will be the addition of the three rows.
76854
34721
65278
------
176853
------
_The addition of five rows of figures may be told in a similar manner._
Let any one present write down, as before, a row of figures, and then
the calculator may undertake to tell the addition of that row with
four other rows, two of which may be written by any person or persons
present. This is attained by deducting 2 from the unit figure, and
placing the figure 2 on the left-hand side. For example: again suppose
the first row to be as before (76854); the result of the addition of
that row and four others may be made to be 276852. After the first row
has been written, fold it over, and request some one to write a second
row of figures, which shall be supposed to be 34721; to this the magic
calculator should write for the third row such figures as will make
each of the above up to 9, namely, 65278; again, let a stranger write
the fourth row, first turning over so as to conceal the second and
third rows; whatever appears for the fourth row must be in each figure,
as before, for the fifth row, made by the calculator to 9. Thus, if
the fourth row be put down 80765, the necessary figures to add for the
fifth row will be 19234, when the previously given total will be found
to be correct.
76854
34721
65278
80765
19234
------
276852
------
In the last two examples of _Magical Addition_ the only stipulations
needed are that no subsequent row shall contain more figures than are
contained in the first row, and that the first row shall end neither
with a 1 nor a 0.
THE CLEVER LAWYER.
The following good story is very old:--A country attorney was once
left executor to a will in which the testator bequeathed his stable of
horses to be divided among three persons, in the proportions of half
of the horses to A, a third of the horses to B, and a ninth of the
horses to C. When the will was made 18 horses were in the stable, but
subsequently, and before the death of the testator, one died, leaving
but 17. The division according to the will now seemed impossible; but
to prevent disputes among the legatees, the lawyer gave a horse out
of his own stable, then divided the horses according to the will, and
yet received his own back, and all were satisfied. It was done in the
following manner:--
A received the half of 18, namely 9 horses.
B " third " 6 "
C " ninth " 2 "
--
17
The lawyer's horse returned 1
--
18
A NEW WAY OF MULTIPLYING BY 9.
Suppose it be required to multiply the following figures by 9, the
result may be obtained in the following as well as in the ordinary way.
In the first example the ordinary method has been pursued; the new
way consists in adding a 0 on the right-hand side of the figures, and
subtracting the number to be multiplied.
467543 4675430
9 467543
------- -------
4207887 4207887
TO REWARD THE FAVOURITES, AND SHOW NO FAVOURITISM.
The proprietor of a ladies' school once received an invitation for
one-half of her pupils to attend a flower show, but was a long time
before she could decide how to pick out those who ought to be rewarded
without hurting the feelings of those left behind. There were thirty
pupils in the school, and fifteen were to be taken and the like number
left at home. The following plan was the one hit upon:--The pupils were
arranged in a row, four intended to go were placed first, five not
intended next, and so on, as shown below, the letter A denoting those
it was intended should partake of the offered pleasure, the letter B
denoting those it was wished to leave out, and they were told when so
arranged that the ninth girl, and each succeeding ninth, would be left
at home.
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15
A A A A B B B B B A A B A A A
16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30
B A B B A A B B B A B B A A B
The counting commenced with No. 1, and went round and round
consecutively, each ninth pupil being dropped out, as designated to
stay at home. It will be seen that those to be left were dropped out
in the following order:--9th, 18th, 27th, 6th, 16th, 26th, 7th, 19th,
30th, 12th, 24th, 8th, 22nd, 5th, 23rd, thus leaving fifteen only.
THE DISHONEST SERVANTS.
Three gentlemen, with their servants, had to cross over a river in a
boat in which two passengers only could be transported at one time.
The servants were known to have planned to murder and rob one or more
of the masters if two servants were left with one master or three
servants with two masters. The question to be decided was how these
six persons were to cross so that the boat could be returned, and yet
so that the servants on either side of the river should not outnumber
the masters. The following is one of the several ways in which the
difficulty might have been overcome:--Two servants go over first, one
returns; two servants go over again, one again returning with the boat;
two of the masters next go over, and a master and one of the previously
taken servants returns; then two of the masters again go over, and the
servant already crossed takes the boat back, leaving the three masters
safely crossed; the servants are left to come over in any manner they
choose.
LORD DUNDREARY'S FINGER PUZZLE TO COUNT ELEVEN FINGERS ON THE TWO HANDS.
Begin on one hand, and count the ten fingers throughout. Begin next
time at the finger last counted in the first round, counting this time
backwards--ten, nine, eight, seven, six--then holding up the other
hand, say "And five are eleven."
UNIFORM RESULTS OF MULTIPLICATION.
The digits 15873 multiplied by 7 give .. .. 111111
" 31746 " 7 " .. .. 222222
" 47619 " 7 " .. .. 333333
" 63492 " 7 " .. .. 444444
" 79365 " 7 " .. .. 555555
" 95238 " 7 " .. .. 666666
" 126984 " 7 " .. .. 888888
" 142857 " 7 " .. .. 999999
Of course, it would need the digits 111111 to make .. 777777
TO ASCERTAIN A SQUARE NUMBER AT A GLANCE.
Every boy knows that a square number is a number produced by the
multiplication of any number into itself; thus 7, multiplied by itself,
gives 49 as a result, 49 consequently is a square number, 7 being
termed the square root from which it springs. In high numbers the
extraction of the square root is an affair of time and trouble, and
after all the necessary calculations have been made it may perhaps be
found that the number is not a square number. This unnecessary trouble
may be saved if the following instructions are remembered:--Every
square number ends with one of the figures 1, 4, 5, 6, or 9, or with
two ciphers preceded by one or other of those figures. Again, every
square number is either equally divisible by 4, or when divided by 4
will have a remainder of 1; thus, as shown above, the square of 7 is
49, which divided by 4 gives us a quotient 12 and 1 over; 64 again is a
square number, and it is exactly divisible by 4.
TO DISTINGUISH COINS BY ARITHMETICAL CALCULATION.
Request some person to place in one of his hands a bronze coin and in
the other a silver one, and to let no one know which hand contains
either particular coin. This may be ascertained by the following
calculation:--The calculator should assign an even number, say 4, to
the bronze coin, and an odd number, say 7, to the silver coin. The
person holding the coins should be requested to multiply the number
assigned to the coin held in his right hand by an even number, and that
assigned to the coin held in the left hand by an odd number. Instruct
that the products of the two calculations be added together, and if the
whole sum be even the silver coin will have been placed in the right
hand, and the bronze coin in the left. If the result be an odd number,
the reverse arrangement will of course have been made.
We will conclude this section by stating shortly some of the
PROPERTIES OF NUMBERS.
By a careful study of these properties many amusing arithmetical
puzzles and numerical combinations may be arrived at:--
1. Every odd number multiplied by an odd number produces an odd
number.
2. Every odd number multiplied by an even number produces an even
number.
3. Every even number multiplied by an odd number produces an even
number.
4. An even number added to or subtracted from an even number, or an
odd number to or from an odd number, produces an even number.
5. An odd number added to or subtracted from an even number produces
an odd number.
6. The digits of the nine times multiplication table added together
make either 9 or 18 (twice 9), thus:--
9 × 1 = 9
9 × 2 = 18 or 8 plus 1 = 9
9 × 3 = 27 or 7 " 2 = 9
9 × 4 = 36 or 6 " 3 = 9
And so on to
9 × 11 = 99 or 9 plus 9 = 18
Then so on again up to 9 times 24, each table making 9, with the
exception of 9 times 22 =198=8+9+1=18. Indeed, the digits, added
together, of the product of any number multiplied by 9, will be found
to be 9 or a multiple thereof.
7. The digits 1 to 9 may be placed to form 362880 combinations; this
number divided by 9 gives 40320; these figures added together make 9.
8. If two numbers are divisible by any one number, their sum and
their difference will also be divisible by the same number.
9. If two numbers divisible by 9 be added together, the sum of the
figures will be either 9 or a multiple of 9.
CARD GAMES.
There is no knowing exactly when card-playing first made its
appearance, or who introduced it. Long before Whist, Cribbage, or
Piquet was heard of the natives of India and China amused themselves
for many a long hour in card-playing. Though probably they did not
restrict themselves to any particular rule or method, still, the
enjoyment they derived from the game was, doubtless, quite equal to
any that we have now. The old tale, that has so often been repeated,
that Whist was invented purposely to entertain, during his moments of
sanity, an English sovereign who had lost his reason, may or may not
be true. All we really know is, that for more than two hundred years
our grandmothers and grandfathers have spent many a happy hour at the
card-table, sipping their toddy and playing their rubbers in really
good earnest. As far as we are concerned, the toddy sipping may be
with safety dispensed with, but not the earnestness; for with cards,
almost more than any other amusement, it is utterly useless to play in
a half-hearted sort of manner.
Everything, for the time, must be forgotten but the game, and into that
the whole energy must be thrown. As all good players know, triflers
are to be dreaded far more than inexperienced players. The latter, by
practice, strict attention, the exercise of judgment, observation,
and memory may soon become skilful players, while the former will
never willingly be chosen as partners by good Whist players. It is
said that good old Sir Roger de Coverley sent a messenger round every
Christmas time with a pack of cards to all the cottagers on his estate,
and if accompanied, as no doubt they were, with something useful and
substantial, nothing could have been much more acceptable.
LONG WHIST.
Among all card games Whist is unequalled, and although no more than
four players can join in one game, a whole roomful of people may easily
play at the same time by simply dividing themselves into so many
quartettes, a pack of cards being provided for each set of players.
For Long Whist four players are required, and a complete pack of
fifty-two cards. The first step is for each player to draw a card
from the pack, the two highest and the two lowest being partners,
each player taking his seat opposite his partner. The cards are then
shuffled by the "elder hand," who is the player to the left of the
dealer, the post of dealer being allotted to the drawer of the lowest
card; after which they are cut by the "younger hand," who is the player
to the right of the dealer. Beginning with his left-hand neighbour, the
whole pack is then dealt out to the players one by one, faces downward,
until the last one is arrived at, which, though the property of the
dealer, is turned up, displaying the trump suit. If dealt properly,
every player will hold in his hand thirteen cards, which he is now at
liberty to look at and arrange in order, the owner of each hand being
in honour bound not to look at any cards but his own.
The object of the game is for each player to either make himself, or
assist his partner in making, as many tricks as possible, so that they
together may gain ten points, that number being game in Long Whist.
The player to the left of the dealer first leads a card which his left
hand opponent follows with a card of the same suit; the next player
does the same, until all four cards are upon the table, the trick
belonging to the player of the highest card.
Should any one not be able to follow suit, he may either play a card
from another suit, or give one of the trump suit, and may possibly,
by adopting the latter method, secure the trick for himself and his
partner from the hands of their adversaries.
The winner of the trick is entitled to the next lead, the others
following him as they did the former leader, and thus the game goes on
until the full thirteen tricks are made. The points gained by each side
are then noted down, either on a cribbage board or entrusted to the
memory of the players, after which another shuffling takes place, and
the cards are again distributed, the game thus proceeding until one of
the couples has obtained ten tricks, when the game is won.
Another way of scoring points, and one which greatly facilitates
business, is that of counting the honours. The four court cards of
the trump suit are called honours, and should any one be fortunate
enough to have these four cards dealt to him in one hand, or if he
and his partner have the cards between them, they can score four to
their game. Three honours count for two; but should the honours be
equally distributed--that is, should one set of partners have only
two court cards between them--the other two cards of the same kind
must necessarily be in the hands of their opponents, in which case the
honours are said to be divided, and neither side reaps any advantage
from them. Each set of partners must win six tricks, constituting "a
book," before they may score any to the game.
It is possible, therefore, for a couple of players to gain ten or
eleven points during one round, though such luck very rarely occurs.
It is a much more common occurrence for five or six deals to be made
before the winning of a game.
Although in playing Whist the beginner need know nothing more than the
ordinary rules of the game to enable him to take a part, nothing but
practice will make him a skilful player. It is only by experience he
will learn how necessary it is for him to rigidly adhere to the rules
of the game. Whist, like Chess, must be played properly, or not at all.
It is, therefore, important that all who wish to be good Whist players
should at once make themselves thoroughly acquainted with the rules of
the game, and also learn what mistakes to avoid.
The following are technical terms used in Whist:--
_Ace._--Highest in play, lowest in cutting.
_Blue Peter._--A signal for trumps allowable in modern play. This
term is used when a high card is unnecessarily played in place of one
of lower denomination--as a ten for a seven, a five for a deuce, &c.
_Bumper._--Two games won in succession before adversaries have won
one; that is a rubber of full points. Five at Short Whist, ten at
Long.
_Cut._--Lifting the cards when the uppermost portion (not fewer than
three), is placed below the rest. The pack is then ready for the
dealer.
_Cutting in._--Deciding the deal by each player taking up not fewer
than three cards, and the two highest and two lowest become partners.
In case of ties, the cards must be cut again.
_Cutting out._--In case of other person or persons wishing to play,
the cut is adopted as before, when the highest (or lowest, as may be
agreed on), stands out of the game, and does not play.
_Call, The._--The privilege of the player at eight points asking his
partner if he holds an honour. "Have you one?" The partners having
eight points are said to _have the call_. When each side stands at
eight, the first player has the privilege. No player can call until
it is his turn to play.
_Deal._--The proper distribution of the cards from left to right,
face downwards.
_Deal, Fresh._--A fresh or new deal, rendered necessary by any
violation of the laws, or by any accident to the cards or players.
_Double._--Ten points scored at Long Whist before adversaries have
obtained five; or in Short Whist, five before three.
_Elder Hand._--The player to the left of the dealer.
_Faced Card._--A card improperly shown in process of dealing. It is
in the power of adversaries, in such cases, to demand a new deal.
_Finessing._--A term used when a player endeavours to conceal his
strength, as when having the best and third best (ace and queen) he
plays the latter, and risks his adversary holding the second best
(the king). If he succeed in winning with his queen, he gains a clear
trick, because if his adversary throws away on the queen, the ace
is certain of making a trick. The term finessing may be literally
explained by saying a player chances an inferior card to win a trick
with while he holds the king card in his hand.
_Forcing._--This term is employed when the player obliges his
adversary or partner to play his trump or pass the trick. As, for
instance, when the player holds the last two cards in a suit and
plays one of them.
_Hand._--The thirteen cards dealt to each player.
_Honours._--Ace, king, queen, and knave of trumps, reckoned in the
order here given.
_Jack._--The knave of any suit.
_King Card._--The highest unplayed card in any suit; the leading or
winning card.
_Lead, The._--The first player's card, or the card next played by the
winner of the last trick.
_Long Trumps._--The last trump card in hand, one or more, when
the rest are all played. It is important to retain a trump in an
otherwise weak hand.
_Loose Card._--A card of no value, which may be thrown away on any
trick won by your partner or adversary.
_Longs._--Long Whist, as opposed to Short.
_Lurch._--The players who make the double points are said to have
lurched their adversaries.
_Love._--No points to score. Nothing.
_Marking the game._--Marking the score apparent with coins, &c., or
with a whist-marker.
_Mis-deal._--A mis-deal is made by giving a card too many or too few
to any player, in which case the deal passes to the next hand.
_Nine Holes._--The side when the score, at a fresh deal, stands at 9,
must win, if at all, by points only; the honours do not count.
_No Game._--A game at which the players make no score.
_Opposition._--Side against side.
_Points._--The score obtained by tricks and honours. The wagering or
winning periods of the game.
_Quarte._--Four cards in sequence.
_Quarte Major._--A sequence of ace, king, queen, and knave.
_Quint._--Five successive cards in a suit; a sequence of five--as
king, queen, knave, ten, and nine.
_Rags._--Cards of no value, as the small numbers.
_Renounce._--Possessing no card of the suit led, and playing another
which is not a trump.
_Revoke._--Playing a card different from the suit led, though the
player can follow suit. The penalty for the error, whether made
purposely or by accident, is the forfeiture of three tricks. When a
Revoke is made the penalty should invariably be enforced.
_Rubber._--The best of three games, that is, two out of three.
_Ruffing._--Another term for trumping a suit other than trumps.
_Sequence._--Cards following in their natural order--as ace, king,
queen; two, three, four, &c. There may, therefore, be a sequence of
four, five, six, and so on.
_Single._--Scoring at Long Whist ten tricks before your adversaries
have scored five.
_See-Saw._--When each partner trumps a suit. For instance, A holds no
diamonds, and B no hearts. When A plays hearts, B trumps and returns
a diamond, which A trumps and returns a heart, and so on.
_Score._--The points gained in a game or rubber.
_Slam._--Winning every trick in a round.
_Shorts._--Short Whist as opposed to Long.
_Tenace._--Holding the best and third best of any suit led when last
player. Holding tenace; as king and ten of clubs. When your adversary
leads that suit, you win two tricks perforce. (_Tenace minor_ means
the second and fourth best of any suit).
_Treble._--Scoring five (at Short Whist) before your adversaries have
marked one.
_Tierce._--A sequence of three cards in any suit.
_Tierce Major._--Ace, king, and queen of any suit held in one hand.
_Trick._--The four cards played, including the lead.
_Trump._--The last card in the deal; the turn-up.
_Trumps._--Cards of the same suit as the turn-up.
_Ties._--Cards of like denomination--as two kings, queens, &c. Cards
of the same number of pips.
_Trumping Suit._--Playing a trump to any other suit led.
_Underplay._--Playing to mislead your adversaries; as by leading a
small card though you hold the king card of the suit.
_Younger Hand._--The player to the right of the dealer.
The following rules have frequently proved very valuable to beginners;
we think, therefore, our own young readers who are at all ambitious to
excel in Whist may as well have the benefit of them.
BOB SHORT'S RULES.
FOR FIRST HAND, OR LEAD.
1.--Lead from your strong suit, and be cautious how you change suits,
and keep a commanding card to bring it in again.
2.--Lead through the strong suit and up to the weak, but not in
trumps, unless very strong in them.
3.--Lead the highest of a sequence; but if you have a quart or quint
to a king, lead the lowest.
4.--Lead through an honour, particularly if the game be much against
you.
5.--Lead your best trump if the adversaries be eight, and you have no
honour, but not if you have four trumps, unless you have a sequence.
6.--Lead a trump if you have four or five or a strong hand, but not if
weak.
7.--Having ace, king, and two or three small cards, lead ace and king
if weak in trumps, but a small one if strong in them.
8.--If you have the last trump, with some winning cards, and one
losing card only, lead the losing card.
9.--Return your partner's lead, not the adversaries', and if you have
only three originally, play the best; but you need not return it
immediately when you win with the king, queen, or knave, and have only
small ones, or when you hold a good sequence, have a strong suit, or
have five trumps.
10.--Do not lead from ace queen or ace knave.
11.--Do not lead an ace unless you have a king.
12.--Do not lead a thirteenth card, unless trumps be out.
13.--Do not trump a thirteenth card, unless you be last player or want
the lead.
14.--Keep a small card to return your partner's lead.
15.--Be cautious in trumping a card when strong in trumps,
particularly if you have a strong suit.
16.--Having only a few small trumps, make them when you can.
17.--If your partner refuses to trump a suit of which he knows you
have not the best, lead your best trump.
18.--When you hold all the remaining trumps, play one, and then try to
put the lead in your partner's hand.
19.--Remember how many of each suit are out, and what is the best card
left in each hand.
20.--Never force your partner if you are weak in trumps, unless you
have a renounce or want the odd trick.
21.--When playing for the odd trick, be cautious of trumping out,
especially if your partner be likely to trump a suit; make all the
tricks you can early, and avoid finessing.
22.--If you take a trick and have a sequence, win with the lowest.
FOR SECOND HAND.
23.--With king, queen, and small cards, play a small one when not
strong in trumps; but if weak, play the king. With ace, king, queen,
or knave only, and a small card, play the small one.
FOR THIRD HAND.
24.--With ace and queen, play Her Majesty, and if she wins return the
ace. In all other cases the third hand should play his best card when
his partner has led a low one. It is a safe rule for third hand to
play his highest.
FOR ALL THE PLAYERS.
25.--Fail not, when in your power, to make the odd trick.
26.--Attend to the game, and play accordingly.
27.--Hold the turn-up card as long as possible, and so keep your
adversaries from a knowledge of your strength.
28.--Retain a high trump as long as you can.
29.--When in doubt, win the trick.
30.--Play the game fairly, keep your temper, and don't talk.
Supplied with the above directions, none of our young friends need
hesitate to become one of four players at the whist-table, where,
no doubt, they will soon distinguish themselves by their skill and
dexterity.
This, however, will not be the case unless they resolve either to play
well or not to play at all; and to do this, they must bear in mind
that not only is it necessary to have a thorough knowledge of all the
leading rules and principles of the game, but the little details, which
are learnt only by degrees, must also receive due attention.
For instance, success greatly depends upon knowing when to return a
partner's lead, how to secure the odd trick, and also how to finish the
game.
A very common occurrence is for a well-played game to be spoilt by the
last two or three tricks being played badly; and the ending of the game
is almost more important than the beginning.
An inexperienced player, elated, perhaps, by a little seeming success,
which, no doubt, has really been attributable to the good playing of
his partner, has often been known to spoil the end of a game by his bad
playing.
Very slow calculating players are by no means regarded in the light of
acquisitions at a card-table; still, as compared with rash, thoughtless
players, they are very much the safer partners.
Most of the long established laws of Whist, which must be thoroughly
mastered and committed to memory by all learners, in order that they
may be carried into practice continually, are as follows:--
LAWS OF LONG WHIST.
THE RUBBER.
1.--The rubber is the best of three games. If the first two games are
won by the same players the third game is not played.
2.--A game consists of ten points (five in Short Whist). Each trick
above six counts one point.
3.--Honours, _i.e._, ace, king, queen, and knave of trumps, are thus
reckoned:--
If a player and his partner, either separately or conjointly, hold--
1st. The four honours, they score four points.
2nd. Three of the honours, they score two points.
3rd. Two honours only, they do not score. (In Short Whist honours
do not count.)
4.--Those players who at the commencement of a deal are at the score
of nine cannot score honours.
5.--The penalty for a revoke takes precedence of all other scores;
tricks score next; honours last.
6.--Honours, unless claimed before the trump card of the following
deal is turned up, cannot be scored.
7.--To score honours is not sufficient: they must be called at the end
of the hand; if so called, they may be scored at any time during the
game.
8.--If an erroneous score be proved, such mistake can be corrected
prior to the conclusion of the game in which it occurred, and such
game is not concluded until the trump card of the following deal has
been turned up.
9.--If an erroneous score, affecting the amount of the rubber, be
proved, such mistake can be rectified at any time during the rubber.
10.--In cutting, the ace is the lowest card.
11.--In all cases every one must cut from the same pack.
12.--Should a player expose more than one card, he must cut again.
13.--In cutting for partners, two players cutting cards of equal
value, unless such cards are the two highest, cut again; should they
be the two lowest, a fresh cut is necessary to decide who shall deal.
14.--Three players cutting cards of equal value cut again.
SHUFFLING.
1.--The pack must be shuffled above the table, but not so that the
cards can be seen.
2.--The pack must not be shuffled during the play of the hand.
3.--The dealer's partner must collect the cards for the ensuing deal,
and has the first right to shuffle that pack.
4.--Each player, after shuffling, must place the cards, properly
collected and face downwards, to the left of the player about to deal.
5.--The dealer has always the right to shuffle last; but should a
card or cards be seen during his shuffling or any other time, he must
re-shuffle.
6.--Each player deals in his turn; the right of dealing goes to the
left.
7.--The player on the dealer's right cuts the pack, and in dividing it
must not leave fewer than four cards in either packet; if, in cutting,
a single card be exposed, or if there be any confusion of the cards,
there must be a fresh cut.
8.--When a player whose duty it is to cut has once separated the pack,
he must neither re-shuffle nor re-cut the cards.
9.--After the pack is cut, should the dealer shuffle the cards he
loses his deal.
10.--If any card, except the last, be faced in the pack, or if the
pack prove to be imperfect, there must be a new deal.
11.--A misdeal loses the deal.
12.--The trump card must be left on the table until the first trick
has been won.
13:--A revoker must give three tricks to his opponent.
14.--When a revoke has been made the opponents may search all the
tricks.
15.--A revoke cannot be claimed after the cards have been cut for the
next deal.
16.--Bystanders should be silent.
The following general principles will be found to be of very great
value:--
FIRST HAND.
1.--Lead from your strongest suit.
2.--Lead the highest of a head sequence.
3.--Lead the highest of a numerically weak suit.
4.--Try to avoid changing suits.
5.--In the second round of a suit return the lowest of a four suit,
the highest of a three suit.
SECOND HAND.
6.--The second hand player in the first round of a suit should
generally play the lowest card, and also win with the lowest of a
sequence.
7.--If you do not head a trick you should throw away with your lowest
card.
8.--Young players often make the mistake of imagining that it does not
signify which card they play when they hold only small cards or cards
in sequence.
9.--They have still to learn that a reason ought to exist for the
playing of every card on the table, and that the winning of a single
trick is not all that ought to be taken into consideration; the
information afforded to one's partner must also be thought of.
THIRD HAND.
10.--Play your highest card third hand. Presuming that your partner,
who may lead a small card, plays from his strong suit, meaning to
get the winning cards of it out of his way, you therefore play your
highest, remembering that you play the lowest of a sequence.
11.--When your partner leads a high card, however, the case is
different. You must not put ace on your partner's king, thus parting
with ace and king in one trick.
12.--If you think that your partner has led from a weak suit, you may
then finesse king, knave, &c., or pass his card altogether, so as not
to give up the entire command of the suit; but if you are not sure
whether his card is intended to signify strength or weakness, do not
finesse.
FOURTH HAND.
13.--Less skill is required by the fourth player than any of the
others; all he has to do is to try to beat the three cards on the
table before him, and thus win the trick, unless, of course, it has
already been taken by his partner, who has either played the highest
card or trumped. In that case the player should play a low one of the
same suit, or if he cannot do that he should discard.
When not able to follow suit, you should discard from your weakest
suit; indeed, the fact of your discarding originally from any suit is
an intimation to your partner that you are weak in that particular
suit. Natural discards may be distinguished from such as are forced by
taking into consideration the aspect of the game at the time of the
discard.
If the person discarding has been playing a strong game, or leading
trumps, you may be sure that the discard was from a weak suit; while,
on the other hand, any one discarding who has not shown strength most
likely does it to conceal weakness. The best use that can be made
of trumps is a matter that is by no means learnt all at once. The
advantage generally acknowledged to be the greatest in the possession
of a hand strong in trumps is to draw the adversaries' trumps for
the bringing in of your own or your partner's long suit. At the
same time, should you be weak in every suit but trumps, you have no
alternative but either always leading trumps or leading from a weak
suit. As a general rule, it is only right to lead trumps when strong
in them, therefore your partner's lead of trumps should be returned
immediately. Still, a player, however strong in trumps, should not use
them recklessly, but remembering that they are meant to disarm the
opponents, should employ them as much as possible for that purpose.
Such advice, we ought to remark, is only serviceable among sound
players; should you have an inexperienced partner, the best thing to
be done is to make as many tricks as you can, and not attempt to play
scientifically.
When you have played all your trumps, do not choose a suit from which
your partner threw away when he was not able to follow your trump lead.
Of course he is weak in that suit. If he has thrown away more than one
suit, play the suit from which he last threw away.
Leading a high card, then a low one from the same suit, indicates
weakness, or it may indicate a wish to have trumps led. Trumping second
hand at an early stage of the game also indicates weakness.
When you and your partner have all the trumps between you, if you wish
to throw the lead into his hand play a small one.
There are some instances when it is polite to win your adversaries'
leads with the highest of a sequence, if you can do it without
deceiving your partner; by so doing you make your opponents wonder what
has become of the lower honours.
Holding ace, ten, and a small one, your partner leading the nine of the
suit, pass it; for if he holds an honour you make two tricks, counting
your ace for a certain trick.
With king, queen, or queen and knave, and another play one of the high
cards in all cases when you are second hand. With an average remainder
of trumps and good cards, having one certain loser, throw it away at
your first opportunity; it may enable your partner to make his second
best of the suit. When your partner does not trump a winning card you
may be quite sure that he means you to play trumps.
Should the queen come from your right in a lead with ace or king, ten
or another, pass it; this gives you a ten ace; if your partner have
either ace or king, you make three tricks in the suit.
Some players, however, think it best to cover the queen.
It is bad policy to lead up to queen or knave, the contrary with
respect to the ace or king; the same may be said with reference to
leading through those several cards.
If your partner leads trumps and you have four high trumps, endeavour
to make sure of three rounds in that suit; should his lead, however, be
a nine, pass it; you will then have the lead after the third round.
When the lead comes from your right hand opponent, play your queen,
should you hold ace, queen, and ten.
Independently of Whist being one of the best in-door games that have
ever been introduced, it is certainly the finest exercise of memory
that, in this form, we could have. Beginners frequently are quite
discouraged by their repeated failures, which arise from no other cause
than simply the forgetfulness of the player. No one, however, need be
disheartened; a knowledge of the game will create in the player such a
love for it that he will be anxious to cultivate any deficiency he may
have as regards his memory in order that he may become a proficient
Whist player, and thus his character as a whole will, no doubt, be
benefited by the exercise, because in Whist one great maxim is that no
allowances should be made for forgetfulness.
Not beginners only, who have had no confidence in their memory, but
many long-established players, have been known, in sorting their
cards after the deal, to arrange them in such perfect order that a
sharp-sighted adversary with very little difficulty can take a glance
at the whole hand.
Even Hoyle, in a plan laid out by him as a kind of aid to the memory,
recommends that the trumps should be placed to the left of all the
other suits, the best or strongest suit next, and the weakest last on
the right hand.
Instead of that, most people find by experience that the best plan is
to take up the cards just as they happen to fall, and hold them in the
hand without sorting.
A little practice will soon enable the player to select the right card
without any previous arrangement.
And now, after giving all these rules and instructions with regard to
Whist playing, we must not omit to add a few words as to the spirit in
which the game should be played. Voltaire says that "in war we ought
to do that which the enemy most dreads." So we should also in Whist,
remembering, however, that we are trying to conquer, not our enemies,
but our friends; therefore, if we win we have cause for congratulating
ourselves, if we lose let us be quite as ready to congratulate our
opponents.
There is, perhaps, no game where the temper may be more tried than in
Whist. Knowing this, it would perhaps be better for the irritable and
peevish in disposition to keep altogether aloof from the game, simply
because they would not only be a source of annoyance to others, but
they would derive no pleasure themselves from the pursuit.
Patience and forbearance must be exercised. In spite of all that has
been said against the practice of card-playing, we none of us can tell
how much good has resulted from it. Not only good temper, but many
other virtues, may be cultivated at the whist table.
Honour and integrity must be maintained; for though cheating and
underhand playing have in some cases for a time been successful,
they are methods that never, in the long run, have been adopted with
satisfaction.
Idleness is a quality that must be wholly dispensed with. A player
needs to be always on the alert; without casting any sly glances at the
cards held in the hands of the others, he may, by his own observation
and diligence, know exactly the strength or weakness of each player.
"My son," once said a keen, shrewd business man, "don't attempt to play
cards unless you have four eyes;" and certainly the player who cannot
with his mind's eye see what cards the other players have, as well as
those in his own hand, will never be much more than an indifferent
player.
No silly trifling conversation should be carried on during the game.
To play well, nothing should be allowed to divert the interest from
the subject in hand. Indeed, we cannot conclude better than quote what
Charles Lamb says in one of his Essays about the famous Mrs. Battle,
although, at the same time, we should scarcely advise any of our
readers to estimate either Whist or any other game quite so seriously
as she did.
MRS. BATTLE'S OPINION ON WHIST.
"A clear fire, a clean hearth, and the rigour of the game." This was
the celebrated wish of old Sarah Battle (now with God), who, next to
her devotions, loved a good game of Whist.
She was none of your lukewarm gamesters, your half-and-half players,
who have no objection to take a hand if you want one to make up a
rubber; who affirm that they have no pleasure in winning; that they
like to win one game and lose another; that they can while away an hour
very agreeably at a card-table, but are indifferent whether they play
or not; and will desire an adversary who has slipped a wrong card to
take it up and play another. These insufferable triflers are the curse
of a table. One of these flies will spoil a whole pot.
Of such, it may be said that they do not play at cards, but only play
at playing at them.
Sarah Battle was none of that breed. She detested them from her heart
and soul, and would not, save upon a striking emergency, willingly seat
herself at the same table with them.
She loved a thorough-paced partner, a determined enemy. She took and
gave no concessions. She hated favours. She never made a revoke nor
ever passed it over in her adversary without exacting the utmost
forfeiture. She fought a good fight, cut and thrust.
She held not her good sword (her cards) like a dancer. She sate bolt
upright, and neither showed you her cards nor desired to see yours.
All people have their blind side, their superstitions; and I have heard
her declare under the rose that hearts were her favourite suit.
I never in my life (and I knew Sarah Battle many of the last years of
it) saw her take out her snuff-box when it was her turn to play, or
snuff a candle in the middle of the game, or ring for a servant till
it was fairly over. She never introduced or connived at miscellaneous
conversation during its process.
As she emphatically observed, _cards were cards_; and if I ever saw
unmingled distaste in her fine last-century countenance, it was at
the airs of a young gentleman of a literary turn who had been with
difficulty persuaded to take a hand, and who, in his excess of candour,
declared that he thought there was no harm in unbending the mind now
and then, after serious studies, in recreations of that kind!
She could not bear to have her noble occupation, to which she wound up
her faculties, considered in that light. It was her business, her duty:
the thing she came into the world to do--and she did it. She unbent her
mind afterwards over a book.
Quadrille, she told me, was her first love, but Whist was the soldier
game--that was her word. It was a long meal; not like quadrille, a
feast of snatches. One or two rubbers might co-extend in duration with
the evening.
A grave simplicity was what she chiefly admired in her favourite game;
there was nothing silly in it, like the nob at cribbage--nothing
superfluous. She even wished that Whist were more simple than it is,
and saw no reason for the deciding of the trump by the turn of the
card. Why not one suit always trumps?
In square games (she meant Whist), all that is possible to be allowed
in card playing is accomplished.
No inducement could ever prevail upon her to play _for nothing_. She
could not conceive _a game_ wanting the spritely infusion of chance,
the handsome excuses of good fortune. Man is a gaming animal, and his
passion can scarcely be more safely expended than upon a game at cards,
with only a few shillings for the stake.
It is needless to say that Sarah Battle's dislike to play Whist for
nothing is not by any means generally shared by Whist players. Those
who cannot play the game for its own sake and for the interest which
they take in it had better not play it at all.
* * * * *
SHORT WHIST.
This is unmistakably nothing more or less than ordinary Whist cut in
half; therefore it is almost unnecessary to say much about it, because
the principles of the game are just the same as those which have been
given at length for the playing of Long Whist.
It is said that it was first introduced at Bath by Lord Peterborough,
who, fearing he was about to incur some heavy losses, thought he might
sooner be relieved of his suspense if he could contrive to shorten the
game. Even now, although it may not be so popular as it once was, it
still possesses a great attraction for many players, who are of opinion
that the awarding of points for honours (which are not held as the
result of play, but simply because they are dealt out to the players
holding them) introduces an element of mere accident into the game,
which they think does not add either to its interest or to its claims
as a scientific amusement. Five points constitute the game in Short
Whist, the rubber being reckoned as two points.
Honours are never called, but are always counted, except at the point
of four.
The chief advantage of Short Whist lies in the fact that the trumps may
be made special instruments of power. Carleton says:--"Trumps should be
your rifle company; use them liberally in your manœuvres; have copious
reference to them in finessing, to enable you to maintain a long suit."
Should you be weak in trumps, ruff a doubtful card at all times; with a
command in them, be very chary of that policy.
Let your great principle always be to keep the control of your
adversaries' suit and leave that of your partner free.
If you see the probable good effect of forcing, decide which of your
adversaries you will assail, but do not attempt them both at once. Let
it be the stronger, if possible.
When you force both hands opposed to you, one throws away his useless
cards; while the chance is the other makes trumps that under other
circumstances would have been sacrificed.
And the great authority Deschapelles, in speaking of Short Whist,
remarks, "When we consider the social feeling it engenders, the
pleasure and vivacity it promotes, and the advantages it offers to the
less skilful player, we cannot help acknowledging that Short Whist is a
decided improvement upon the old game."
DUMBY, OR THREE-HANDED WHIST.
This is exactly the same as Long Whist, excepting that there are
three players instead of four, and one of the players undertaking the
responsibility of two hands. Dumby's hand is exposed on the table, open
to the view of the three players. On the whole, the player having Dumby
for partner has somewhat the best of it.
DOUBLE DUMBY, OR TWO-HANDED WHIST.
This is when only two persons play. Two hands may either be exposed on
the table, and made use of as if there were four players, or they may
be entirely rejected. In the latter case the single hands held by the
players must be managed as skilfully as possible. In all these little
variations upon the real game of Whist each honour counts as one point.
* * * * *
PIQUET.
At one time Piquet was one of the most fashionable of our card games,
though latterly, perhaps owing to its being rather difficult to learn,
it has not been quite so popular. It is played by two persons with
thirty-two cards, all the twos, threes, fours, fives, and sixes being
dispensed with; the remaining cards possessing the same value as at
Whist. In each game the number of points is 101.
Before describing the game it will be most advisable to give the
meaning of the technical terms employed.
_Talon or Stock._--The eight remaining cards after twelve are dealt to
each person.
_Repique_ is when one of the players counts thirty points in hand
before his adversary has or can count one; when, instead of reckoning
thirty, he reckons ninety, and counts above ninety as many points as he
would above thirty.
_Pique_ is when the _elder hand_ counts thirty in hand and play before
the adversary counts one, in which case, instead of thirty, the hand
reckons for sixty, to which are added as many points as may be reckoned
above thirty.
_Capot._--When either party makes every trick, which counts for forty
points.
_Cards._--The majority of the tricks, reckoned for ten points.
_Carte Blanche._--Not having a pictured card in hand, reckoned for ten
points, and takes precedence of everything else.
_Quatorze._--The four aces, kings, queens, knaves, or tens. Each
quatorze reckons for fourteen points.
_Threes of Aces_, &c., down to tens, reckon for three points.
_Point._--The greatest number of pips on cards of the same suit,
reckoned thus: The ace for eleven, the court cards for ten, nines for
nine, &c., and count for as many points as cards.
_Tierce._--Three successive cards of the same suit, reckoned for three
points. There are six kinds of tierces, viz., ace, king, queen, called
a tierce major, down to nine, eight, seven, a tierce minor.
_Quart._--Four successive cards of the same suit, reckoned for four
points. There are five kinds of quarts: ace, king, queen, knave, called
quart major, down to ten, nine, eight, seven, a quart minor.
_Quint._--Five successive cards of the same suit, reckoned for fifteen
points. There are four kinds of quints: ace, king, queen, knave, ten,
called quint major, down to knave, ten, nine, eight, seven, a quint
minor.
_Sixième._--Six successive cards of the same suit, reckoned for sixteen
points. There are three kinds of sixièmes: ace, king, queen, knave,
ten, nine, a sixième major, down to queen, knave, ten, nine, eight,
seven, a sixième minor.
_Septième._--Seven successive cards of a suit, reckoned for seventeen
points. There are two kinds, viz., from the ace to the eight inclusive,
a septième major, and from the king to the seven inclusive, a septième
minor.
_Huitième._--Eight successive cards of the same suit, reckoned for
eighteen points.
The first thing, however, to be noticed is Have either of the players
_carte-blanche_? Should the eldest hand have it, he must tell the
dealer to discount for it, and show his cards. Should the younger hand
have it, he must wait until the elder has discarded, then show his hand
also.
The player who has _carte blanche_ not only counts ten towards the
pique, or repique, but prevents his opponent having either.
The dealer has the option of discarding or not as he feels inclined,
but should he do so he must take in first any that may be left by the
elder hand, and after that his own three which are at the bottom of the
stock. The cards that may be left he can look at; but in that case the
elder hand may do the same.
It is wiser, therefore, in some instances for the dealer not to look at
the cards he leaves, because it will be more to his advantage that the
cards should not be seen by his opponent. If the dealer should happen
to mix up with his own discard any of the cards left by him, the elder
hand can claim to see all, as soon as he has intimated what suit he
means to lead. If, however, the elder hand should not lead the suit he
named, the dealer can insist upon his leading any suit he pleases.
In the game of Piquet the value of the cards depends to a very great
extent upon the various combinations that are made. The learner must,
therefore, become thoroughly acquainted with these combinations,
otherwise he might make the mistake in discarding of simply throwing
out such cards as were of the least numerical value, which really would
be a loss to him. There are no trumps in Piquet, therefore each trick
is won by the highest card of the suit that is led.
In laying out try to secure a _quatorze_. Should neither player have
four aces, _quatorze_ kings annul queens, and, by the same rule, in the
adversary's hand queens annul knaves. If you have four aces, you may
reckon also any inferior _quatorze_, as of tens, and your opponent
cannot reckon four kings, though he should hold them. In the same way,
you can count three aces, and inferior threes down to tens, while your
opponent cannot count his three kings.
The player who has the greatest number of cards in a suit has the
point; but when both players have an equal number of cards in the same
or different suits, the point is then won by the player who has the
greatest number of pips, counting the ace as eleven and the court cards
as ten each. The point being chosen, the eldest hand announces what it
is, asking at the same time if it is good; if his adversary has more
he replies "it is not good," if he has just as many he answers "it is
equal," but if he has not so many he answers "it is good." The player
who has the best counts as many for it as he has cards which compose
it, and whoever has the point counts it first, be he elder or younger
hand, points being equal; or the two players having equal tierces,
quints, quarts, &c., neither can count.
The points, tierces, quarts, quints, &c., must be shown on the table,
that their value may be reckoned; _quatorzes_, threes of aces, and
kings need not be shown.
In reckoning after the _carte-blanche_ comes the point, next the
sequences, and then the _quatorzes_, or threes of aces, kings, &c. The
cards are then played, each card, excepting a nine or an inferior one,
counting one.
The elder hand having played the first card, the dealer before
answering the card must count his own game, point, sequence,
_quatorze_, or _carte-blanche_, if he has it, and, after reckoning them
altogether, he takes the first trick if he can with the same suit; if
he cannot do so his opponent has the trick.
When the tricks are equal they do not count. The winner of the last
trick counts two.
The three chances in Piquet are the _repique_, _pique_, and _capot_,
the whole of which are sometimes made in one deal. The capot is won by
the player who wins all tricks adding ten instead of forty to his score.
A _pique_ is gained as follows:--Supposing the elder hand to have a
_quint_ to an ace, which being a _quint-major_ is as good as a point,
it is therefore good also as a sequence, and counts twenty; suppose
also that he should have three aces, which must be good, because he has
a _quint-major_, that is, one of each of the cards that constitute a
_quatorze_, that makes him twenty-three. In playing the cards, then,
his _quint-major_ and the two additional aces must also count one each,
making in all thirty, upon which the player, instead of saying in his
play "twenty-nine, thirty," says "twenty-nine, sixty."
Now for the _repique_. Supposing the elder hand to have the same point,
good as above, and four aces as well, instead of three, he counts in
his hand, without playing a card, first, five for his point, fifteen
for his _quint-major_, and fourteen for his four aces--that is to say,
thirty-four in hand, which is ninety-four in fact, the game in one hand.
* * * * *
EUCHRE.
This is the most popular game in the United States, and can be played
by two, three, or four players.
Like Whist, Euchre does not depend upon chance only; great skill is
required to play the game well.
It is played with a Piquet pack, that is, a pack of thirty-two cards,
all cards below seven, excepting the ace, being taken out. The value of
the cards is the same as in Whist, except that the knave of trumps and
the other knave of the same colour take precedence over the remainder
of the trumps. The knave of trumps is called the right bower, and the
knave of the suit of the same colour the left bower.
Supposing spades to be trumps, then the cards rank in the following
order:--Knave of spades, knave of clubs, ace, king, queen of spades, &c.
If clubs were trumps then the knave of that suit would be highest card,
and knave of spades the next. The knaves rank as in Whist when neither
right nor left bowers.
EUCHRE FOR TWO PLAYERS.
The cards are dealt as follows:--First deal two to each, then three to
each.
The eleventh card is then turned up, and to whatever suit it belongs
that suit is trumps.
Five points constitute the game. If a player win three tricks, they
count for one point; if he win four tricks, they also count for one
point; but if he win all five tricks, they count two points.
The eleventh card being turned up, the first player begins the game
by looking at his hand to ascertain if, in his own estimation, it is
sufficiently strong to score--that is, to make three, four, or five
tricks. Should he be able to do so, he will say, "I order it up;" that
is, that the dealer is to take up the turn-up card in his hand, and put
out any card he likes. If, on the contrary, he thinks he cannot score,
he says, "I pass."
If the first player orders the turn-up card up, the game begins at once
by his playing a card and the dealer following suit. Should the dealer
not be able to follow suit, he must either throw away or trump, as in
Whist.
The winner of the trick then leads, and so the game goes on until the
ten cards are played.
If either the dealer or the other player order the card up and fail to
get three or more tricks, he is euchred--that is, his adversary scores
two.
Suppose the first player passes, not, in his own estimation, being
strong enough to make three tricks, the dealer can, if he likes, take
the card and put one of his own out, but if he fails to score he is
euchred.
If they both pass, the first player may change the trump, and the
dealer is compelled to play. If, however, the former does not score he
is euchred.
If he passes for the second time the dealer can alter it, the same
penalty being enforced should he not score.
If they both pass for the second time, the round is over, and the first
player begins to deal.
If trumps are led, and you only have _left bower_, you must play it, as
it is considered a trump.
THREE-HANDED EUCHRE.
Fifteen cards are dealt in this game, but the rules are exactly the
same as in two-handed euchre.
There are, however, a few differences in the tactics. If one player has
scored four points, and the other two players two each, it is allowable
for the two latter to help each other to prevent the player with the
four tricks from winning.
FOUR-HANDED EUCHRE.
In this game the players go two and two, being partners, the same as in
Whist.
The game is won when the combined tricks taken by a player and his
partner amount to five.
If all pass in the first round, the first player is allowed to alter
trumps; if he does not care to do so, the second, then the third, and
lastly the fourth.
If one should fail to score, having ordered up the card, he and his
partner are euchred, and their opponents count two.
Should one player be exceedingly strong, he can say, "I play a lone
hand," whereupon his partner throws up his hand, and the _lone hand_
plays against the other two.
If the single player gets all five tricks he counts three, if three or
four tricks, he counts only one, and if two, or less, he is euchred.
There is yet another variation to this game, and one that generally
meets with approval.
A blank card is taken and on it is written "Joker." This card always
counts highest in the pack whatever suit may happen to be trumps.
If "Joker" should be the turn-up card, the dealer has the privilege of
naming any suit he likes for trumps.
* * * * *
VINGT-UN.
Of all round card games, there is not one more deservedly popular
than the one so well known as Vingt-Un (_i.e._, Twenty-one). Although
much of the success attending it depends upon chance, the exercise
of no small amount of care and judgment is required by the players,
in consequence of which the real interest of the game is greatly
intensified.
Six, eight, or, indeed, as many persons as like may join in it. A whole
pack of cards is required, and the value attached to them is the same
as in Cribbage.
Tens and court cards count as ten each. The ace may either be valued
as one or as eleven, to suit the convenience of the holder, and the
rest of the cards as usual. The cards are shuffled and cut as in Whist,
and to each player a certain number of counters is given. The dealer
then gives one card, face downwards, all round, including himself. The
players, looking at the cards, each place in front of them a stake,
consisting of one or more counters, the amount of each depending
entirely upon the choice of the players.
Beginning at the elder hand a second card is then distributed to each.
Before proceeding further the dealer may, if so inclined, "challenge
the board," receiving or paying from all whose hands are less or more
than his own, up to twenty. Should he not feel justified in taking such
a step, he puts the question, "Do you stand?" to each player in turn,
the winners in the game being the players who simply make twenty-one,
neither more nor less. The answers to this question should not be given
without due consideration.
The players who feel that they may with safety take one card, or even
two or three cards, to enable them to make up the necessary number,
receive any number they ask for from the dealer, while those whose
number already is so close upon _twenty-one_ that they think it safer
to stand, say so.
It sometimes happens that one of the two cards given in the first
instance to a player is _an ace_, and the other a _ten_, or a
_court card_. This being the case, the owner of them has reason to
congratulate himself on his good fortune, because the two cards
combined make what is called a _natural_, and unless the dealer also
has exactly _twenty-one_, he must pay double stakes to the possessor of
the natural, who, by reason of its having fallen to him, becomes the
next dealer. When the dealer himself, however, is equally fortunate in
having a natural he receives double stakes from all the players and
single from the ties. All players having either declined the offer of
additional cards, or having received as many as they wish, the dealer
turns up his two cards, and either _stands_ with them as they are, or
takes what cards he likes from the stock on the table. If he should
take too many he pays all the standing players the amount of the stakes
they made, and to those who have _naturals_, or cards amounting to
twenty-one, whatever they may be, he pays double stakes.
Supposing any player's first and second cards should be alike, he may
divide them and place a stake on both, regarding each as a separate
hand, and draw cards accordingly, to make _two_ twenty-ones instead of
one.
At the beginning of a game a player is at liberty to sell his deal if
he should please to do so.
When it happens that the dealer on taking his second card supplies
himself with a natural, the round is considered at an end, and he
is entitled at once to double stakes from all the players, before
supplying them with any additional cards.
On looking at the second card dealt, a player should announce the fact
directly when he has a natural, and be paid for it at once, before the
dealer has taken his own second card.
Sometimes a dealer takes advantage of his right to insist upon all the
players doubling their stakes, and especially does he assert his claim
to take this step when his first card is an ace or a tenth card, or
when he considers the stakes offered are not as high as they should be.
Another privilege belonging to the dealer is what is termed the brulet,
which consists of the top and bottom cards of the pack, after it has
been cut and shuffled. Before beginning to deal, the dealer may take
these two cards, and should they united constitute a natural, every
player must pay him double stakes. The cards are then recut and the
proper deal is made. On the other hand, he is not compelled to stand by
the brulet; when he has supplied every one with the cards they require,
he may add as many as he chooses to his own pair.
* * * * *
SPECULATION.
In playing the famous game of Speculation a full pack of fifty-two
cards is used, the value of each card being the same as at Whist.
Either counters or halfpennies may serve for stakes, an equal number of
which must be allotted to all, the pool being provided by contributions
from each player. After cutting for deal the owner of the lowest card
deals out three cards to each player, one at a time, face downwards,
and no one must on any account look at what has been given him.
The top card of the remaining pack is then to be the trump, and this
card the dealer may either keep himself or sell to the highest bidder,
making it thus an object of speculation.
The player on the left of the possessor of the winning card then turns
up his top card, and if it happen not to be a trump the next player
turns up, and so on, until a higher trump than the first make its
appearance, when the new comer takes the place of its predecessor, and,
if not retained by its owner, is awarded to the highest bidder. If the
card be not a trump, but only an ordinary one, it may be beaten by the
highest card that makes its appearance of the same suit or by a trump.
At the close of every round the pool is won by the player who holds the
highest card of the trump suit. Should the ace of trumps be turned up,
the hand is, of course, at an end, the owner of it being the winner.
The game is well named, for the buying and selling business is
frequently carried on to a very considerable extent. Sometimes the
players will sell their whole hand to each other, or perhaps a single
card on the chance of their proving winners.
Although the above method is the most common way of playing, slight
variations are frequently made. For instance, an extra hand is dealt
by many players and placed in the middle of the table for pool; at the
end of the round this hand is examined, and if a better card is found
in it than that belonging to the winner, the pool is left undisturbed,
and added to the next new pool, making it, of course, double in value.
Another variation is, that any player who may turn up a knave or a five
of any suit excepting trumps shall pay one counter to the pool.
In order to play well at Speculation great judgment must be used, and
also the memory must be in full exercise, but when once thoroughly
understood and appreciated there is no game superior to it for a
Christmas gathering, and almost any number of players may join in it.
* * * * *
NAPOLEON.
This game, though comparatively new, is exceedingly interesting, and
one that hitherto has always proved to be very popular as a lively and
stirring round game.
Like Speculation, it is played with a full pack of fifty-two cards, and
as the shuffling of them is of great importance, it is advisable to be
supplied with two packs, as at Whist.
The pool is started by contributions from each player, the dealer
giving double value. Five cards are then distributed to each player and
held in the hand; as at Whist, it being necessary for the owner of them
to ascertain whether they are good or otherwise.
The player to the left of the dealer then declares how many tricks he
will guarantee to take, or whether he would prefer to be passed once,
owing to the weakness of his hand.
He may promise to take one, two, three, or four tricks; but unless
he should declare _Nap_, which means that he is able to take all
five tricks, the next player is questioned, and so on, until Nap has
ultimately been proclaimed by some one. Should no player declare _Nap_,
the one declaring to take the highest number of tricks leads off.
The stand player, as he is called, then plays against every one else;
he leads the game, and his first card decides what suit shall be
trumps. All the other players try to prevent him from making the tricks
which he declared to take, because, if he should fail, the payments
will have to be made from him to them. Should he succeed, however,
they pay him; and in the event of his making _Nap_, he receives double
stakes from every one of the company.
A player revoking is Napoleoned, which means that he must pay five
tricks to the stand hand, and the cards are played over again.
* * * * *
CRIBBAGE.
This game is played with an ordinary Whist pack, and it is won by the
player who first scores sixty-one points. These points are marked on
what is called a cribbage-board. The board may be placed either across
or lengthways between the players.
A player must begin to score from the end where his sixty-first point
is, and begin at the outside edge. Two pegs are given to each player
to score with, and he uses them as follows:--
Supposing his first score to be four, he places a peg in the fourth
hole; then if his next score be three, he marks it off from the
position of the first peg, and sticks the second peg in the third hole
farther on.
[Illustration: Cribbage Board.]
If his next score be eight, say, he counts from the second peg eight
holes, and there sticks the peg, and so on. By this method confusion
is avoided, and the players are able to check one another's scores.
Generally, the pegs of the different players vary in colour, but this
is not necessary, though one player must never touch his opponent's
half of the board.
The court cards and tens rank equally, and the other cards according to
their number of pips. Aces are counted lowest.
_The Game._
The cards having been shuffled, the non-dealer cuts, but does not place
the undermost half on the uppermost, as in Whist, but leaves the pack
divided into two parts on the table. From the undermost part the dealer
then deals five cards each, beginning with his adversary. The remaining
cards are placed on the other heap, and the pack remains undisturbed
until the crib cards are put out. In the first hand of a new game, the
non-dealer counts three at starting, as a sort of set-off against the
possession of crib by the dealer.
Both players then look at their hands and throw out two cards, the
dealer throwing out first, and the cards being face downwards.
The non-dealer then again cuts the cards, but the number cut must be
more than two, after which the dealer takes the top card of the heap
left on the table, the non-dealer replaces the cards he cut, and the
dealer puts the top card, which is thrown face upwards on the whole.
The two cards thrown out by each player and the turn-up card form
the crib, which belongs to the dealer. If a knave be the turn-up,
the dealer counts "two for his heels." The turn-up card is reckoned
in making up the score of either player, as well as of the crib. The
non-dealer then begins by playing a card, the value of which he calls
out.
Suppose the dealer to have in his hand a queen, knave, and five, and
the non-dealer a seven, eight, and queen, and that the turn-up is four;
then the non-dealer plays his queen, and cries "ten;" the dealer plays
his queen, and cries "twenty," scoring two for a pair, because a court
card counts ten.
The first player then puts down his knave and cries "thirty." As his is
the nearest attained to thirty-one, and the dealer has no ace, he cries
"Go," and the first player scores one hole.
Each player's hand is then counted up, the elder one scoring four--two
for each fifteen; and the dealer two for his fifteen, made up by a
seven and eight.
If the knave in either hand be the same suit as the turn-up, the holder
of the card scores "one for his nob." The crib is added up by the
dealer, and the game goes on.
If in trying to get near thirty-one in the beginning a player can make
fifteen, he counts two. If a player gets exactly thirty-one he counts
two.
The hands are counted up as follows:--
For knave turned up (heels) 2 points.
For sequence of three or four cards 3 or 4 "
For a flush, that is, three cards of same suit 3 "
For a full flush, when cards in hand and turn-up are of same
suit 4 points.
For every fifteen, as 6 and 9; 10, 3, and 2; 7 and 8, court
card and 5, &c. 2 "
For a pair (two of a sort, as 2 threes, 2 fours, &c.) 2 "
For a pair royal (three of same sort) 6 "
For a double pair royal, or four of same sort 12 "
For knave of trumps in hand (nob) 1 "
If a player has in his hand, say, six, seven, and eight, and the
turn-up is eight, he will count that two separate sequences, and score
three for each.
The non-dealer always counts up first. This counting up is called the
"show," and the first show is very important at the end of the game,
as a player may just get sixty-one points and win. The dealer may also
have sixty-one, but as his show has not been the first it does not
count.
Should the dealer misdeal, and not discover the mistake before either
of the hands is taken up, his opponent counts two, and a fresh deal
must be made. If, during the deal the non-dealer expose any one of his
cards to view, the dealer has the option of dealing again, without,
however, looking at his own cards. If the dealer deal more than five
cards, his adversary counts two, and a new deal takes place, the same
penalty being enforced if he give less than five cards.
THREE-HANDED CRIBBAGE.
The theory of Three-handed Cribbage is the same as that in Cribbage,
which we have already described. It is played, as its name indicates,
by three people instead of by two. The board must be triangular in
shape, containing three sets of holes of sixty each and the additional
game hole. Each player has to fight for himself alone, and has,
therefore, two antagonists to combat with instead of one, as in the
ordinary game.
Five cards are dealt to each player, after which an extra card is laid
down to form the commencement of the crib. To this card each player
adds one of his own, the result being that the sixteen cards are
equally divided among the three players and the crib. The player who
first succeeds in reaching the sixty-first hole is the winner of the
game, and is entitled to double the stakes which are apportioned to him
by his two less fortunate companions.
FOUR-HANDED CRIBBAGE.
In this variety of the game four persons play in partnerships of two
each, as at Whist. Sixty-one constitute the game, still it is very
usual to go twice round the board, the number of game in that case
being 121.
Before beginning to play two of the four players are chosen to have the
management of the score, and between them the board is placed, because
upon them only devolves the duty of moving the pegs. The other two
players may not even assist in counting.
After cutting and dealing five cards to each player, the dealer places
the remainder of the pack on his left hand. One card is then given by
each person to form the crib, which, when complete, belongs to the
dealer.
In contributing to the crib, the choice of the card given depends
upon whether the crib belongs to the player and his partner or to
their opponents. Fives are the best cards to give to one's own crib,
therefore they should never be given to the antagonists. Aces and kings
should be avoided; low cards are the best for the purpose.
The play then begins until all the sixteen cards are played out.
Fifteens, sequences, pairs, &c., are reckoned in the usual way. Should
either player be unable to come in under thirty-one, he declares it to
be a "go," and the play belongs to his left-hand neighbour. No small
cards must be kept up which would come in under a penalty.
Great care is required in playing this game of Four-handed Cribbage, as
the learner will soon discover.
In leading, threes and fours are the best cards to select. Five is a
bad lead, as also are ones and nines. The second player must be careful
as to pairing, also he must try to avoid playing too closely on:
though in some cases by doing so the adversary is tempted to form the
sequence. He will learn in time to discriminate when it is wise to play
on. If he can make fifteen it is generally better play than pairing the
card led.
The object of the third player should be to make the number below
twenty-one, in order to help his partner to gain the end hole for the
"go" or the two for thirty-one.
The fourth man who in the first round is the last player will do
wisely to hold aces or low cards for the purpose, especially when it
is necessary to score a few holes in play, or when the only chance of
securing game is to play out.
The hand being played out the different amounts are pegged, crib
included, the one who led off scoring first.
As a rule the amount of points from each hand is seven, and four or
five from the crib.
* * * * *
RANTER GO ROUND.
No game that we can mention surpasses the popular one of Ranter Go
Round for real interest and excitement. It is said to have been first
played in Cornwall, but to us it signifies very little whether it
originated at Land's End or at John o' Groat's; the matter of the
greatest interest is that it is a first-rate game for a winter evening.
First of all, each player is provided with three counters, or lives, as
they are called, and the object of the game consists in trying to see
which player will succeed in keeping his lives the longest.
An ordinary pack of fifty-two cards is then shuffled, and dealt out one
by one to each player.
The players look at their cards, and the one on the left of the dealer,
if he thinks his card is too low, has the option of changing with his
left-hand neighbour, who again may change with his left-hand neighbour,
and so on till the dealer gets the low card, and as he has no one with
whom he can exchange he is allowed to take for it the top card of the
pack. The players then turn their cards face upwards on the table, and
the possessor of the lowest card, aces being counted lowest, has to
forfeit one of his lives.
The game thus goes on until all the players are out but one, who is
declared the winner.
If a player's card be demanded by his right-hand neighbour, whose card
is higher than the one he gave in exchange, he _stands_, or, in other
words, refuses to change with his left-hand neighbour, knowing that he
is safe for that round, because at any rate one card lower than his own
is out. If two players have cards of the same value, and these cards
are lowest, the player who turned his up last has to lose a life.
Players begin turning up their cards from the one on the left of the
dealer No player may exchange more than once.
Sometimes a rule is enforced that when a player demands to exchange
with his left-hand neighbour, and gets a card with _one_, _two_, or
_three_ pips given him for his own, the player with whom he exchanged,
if he has got a higher card for his one, two, or three, cries out the
value of the card he exchanged, so that the other players may know its
worth.
The rule is not one that has ever become very popular, because it tends
very much to deteriorate from the uncertainty of the game, a feature in
all card-playing that possesses a greater charm than perhaps any other.
The vicissitudes of fortune in Ranter Go Round are wonderful.
For instance, a player may have kept his three lives till all but one
are out, and then lose them in three successive rounds, while a player
who has only had one life for a long time will win the game.
As each life is lost a counter of the player belonging to it is placed
in the pool, and as the lives decrease in number they increase in value.
* * * * *
ÉCARTÉ.
The game of Écarté is a real French game; it originated first in Paris,
and at one time was one of the most fashionable games in that city.
It has been devoted so extensively by some players to gambling
purposes, that its reputation has unmistakably suffered thereby, and
any one professing to have a preference for Écarté was, at one time,
suspected immediately of not being a very desirable associate.
It would have been a matter of regret if, because of any unfortunate
association connected with the game, we should have been deprived of
the benefit of it, for it is second to none in its power of affording
amusement. It is easy to learn, and yet it is a scientific, clever
game, and one that we can well imagine would be selected as a favourite
among all other card games by proficient card-players.
It is played by two persons with a pack of thirty-two cards, all the
twos, threes, fours, fives, and sixes being thrown out in preparing the
pack.
The technical terms used are supplied both in English and French, and
considering the game to be so essentially French in its nature we
subjoin the latter list.
_Abattre._--To lower the cards and show them.
_Atout._--Trump.
_Avoir le main._--The act of dealing.
_Battre._--To shuffle the cards before dealing.
_Carte Doublée._ }
_Carte Gardée._ } Two cards of the same suit.
_Couper._--To cut.
_Defaulter._--To refuse a suit.
_Donner._--To deal.
_Écart._--The cards thrown aside.
_Être à la devine._--To be embarrassed which suit to keep.
_Faire._--To deal.
_Faire un main._--To make a trick.
_Forcer._--To play a superior card on an inferior.
_La Belle._--The highest card of any suit.
_La Vole._--To make all the tricks.
_Le Point._--One score of the five which compose the game.
_Levée._--One trick made whilst playing.
_Je propose._--Asking fresh hands, or part of fresh hands.
_Refaire._--To recommence distributing the cards.
_Renoncer._--Not to answer the suited.
_Retourner._--When the cards are dealt, to turn up the first of the
talon.
_Sous-forcer._--To play a card inferior to what remains of some suit in
hand.
_Talon._--What remains of the pack after there has been distributed to
each player what he requires.
The game consists of five points, unless differently arranged.
The king instead of the ace is the highest card.
After the king follow the queen and knave, next comes the ace, then
ten, nine, eight, and seven.
After the dealer has shuffled the cards his opponent cuts them. The
latter also can claim to shuffle if so inclined, but should he do so
the dealer may re-shuffle. The dealer then gives three cards to his
opponent and takes three himself, after which he gives two to his
opponent and takes two himself, turning up the eleventh, which is also
the trump, card on the pack.
Sometimes the two cards are dealt first, and afterwards the three; but
this is a trifling matter, to be decided by the wish of the dealer.
Should the turn-up, or trump, happen to be a king of any suit, the
dealer makes one point to himself and cries "I mark king."
The point is lost, however, unless the king be declared at once, before
the first trick has been played. Still there is one case in which it
would be bad policy to declare the king, even though you hold it.
Supposing that you mark three, and that your adversary does not allow
you to discard, or that, being himself the elder hand, he should play
without proposing; in either case, if he does not make the point, he
loses two, which gives you the game, a result you will have a greater
chance of obtaining by masking your hand; in other words, by not
announcing that you hold the king. The markers used are generally a two
and a three from the discarded suits.
On examining the cards after the deal the non-dealer, if not satisfied
with his hand, exclaims, "Je propose," which is equivalent to saying
that he wishes to exchange one or more of his cards with some of those
in the remainder of the pack. The dealer, if inclined to accept the
proposition, signifies it by saying, "How many?" upon which both he and
the non-dealer each change what cards they like, exclaiming, as they
throw away the original cards, "J'écarte." Should the dealer decline
the offer, and refuse to have any cards exchanged, his opponent scores
double for any points he may make, except in the case of marking king.
Sometimes when both players agree to change their cards, discarding
may be continued, as long as any cards remain in the stock, or until
one of the players shall declare that he is satisfied, when both must
immediately cease discarding.
The game consists of five points, each trick being won by the highest
card of the suit led. Three tricks must be made in order to score one
point; five tricks to score two points. It is possible for a player to
score five points in one round, thus: First, by marking king; then if
he should _propose_, and be _refused_, and afterwards make two points,
these two points he may double on account of being _refused_, securing
by this means the five points. Therefore in some cases it is advisable,
even with a good hand, to _propose_, for the simple reason that, should
the dealer refuse, you score two points for three tricks, and four
for five tricks, although you may only wish to change a single card
in order to hazard the dealer's refusal, or to make the _vole_ if the
proposal be accepted.
The important business of discarding being concluded, the non-dealer
leads off the game by playing any card he likes, his adversary playing
a higher card, if he can, of the same suit, thus taking the trick.
Should he have no higher card, he may take the trick with a trump, or
pass it, as he feels inclined.