BOTTLE IMPS.
Obtain from the toy-shop some small enamelled figures that are made
partially hollow towards their lower part, place them in a glass jar
filled quite full to the brim with water, and carefully close the jar
by covering it tightly with a piece of parchment. Now, by alternately
placing the hand upon the cover and lifting it off again, the figures
are made to descend and ascend in the water. This is caused by the
hollowness before mentioned, the cavities in the figures retaining a
certain quantity of air, and imparting the requisite buoyancy to them.
When the hand is pressed upon the parchment cover of the bottle the
water rises, in consequence of the pressure, into the figures. The air
so being compressed into less space, renders the imps less buoyant, and
they fall; on the pressure being removed they rise again.
[Illustration: Bottle Imps.]
BROTHER JONATHAN.
This is a game of American origin, and consists in pitching a copper
or some other convenient object at the spaces of a diagram arranged
and numbered, as shown in the accompanying plan. The larger spaces
should bear the smaller numbers, and the smaller spaces the larger
numbers. A mark from which the pitch is to be made must be arranged,
and those pitches only count which are made into one or other of the
compartments; pitches made upon the different lines are not counted.
The number marked in the compartment pitched into counts towards game,
which may be fixed at any number according to the pleasure of the
players.
[Illustration:
+----+-----------+---------+
|20 | 3 | 4 |
+----+----+---+--+------+--+
| 11 | 20| 10 | |
+---------+-+-+------+--+--+
| 2 | 7 | 9 |
+--+--------+--------+-+---+
|20| 1 |20 |
+--+-----+------+------+---+
| 6 | 8 | 5 |
+--------+------+----------+
Brother Jonathan.]
_Crack Loo_ is a somewhat similar game, and it consists in pitching
on a boarded floor with the object of pitching on one or other of the
cracks separating the boards.
CAMERA (MINIATURE).
The materials required to make this toy are a small pill-box, a small
piece of broken looking-glass about half an inch square, and a little
piece of beeswax. Bore a small hole in the centre of the lid of the
pill-box, and another hole in the side of the box; then, by means of
the beeswax, stick the bit of looking-glass across the bottom of the
box, at an angle of forty-five degrees. By looking now through one of
the holes in the box the reflection of objects passing behind will
be seen. In making a miniature camera it is not necessary that the
materials used should be so small as those here set forth, but even of
such materials as those mentioned an effective little toy may be easily
constructed, and more ambitious cameras are to be made on just the same
principle.
CANNONADE.
The game of Cannonade, or Castle Bagatelle as it is more generally
called, is a capital Round Game. The rules for playing it, which are
supplied with the board and other apparatus, are somewhat intricate,
and the toy is too elaborate to be made except at a manufactory. A
number of miniature castles, enclosed in miniature fortresses, are
arranged inside and around the edge of a circular tray board; a number
of well-turned balls, equal to the number of castles being played,
are then placed tolerably near each other towards the middle of the
board, and among the balls so placed each player alternately spins
as vehemently as possible a good-sized teetotum; the teetotum sends
the balls flying among the castles, and the owners of the castles
overturned pay forfeit to the spinner of the teetotum, while the owners
of the castles that remain standing receive forfeit from him.
[Illustration: Cannonade, or Castle Bagatelle.]
There is a version of this game known at the toy-shops as the "Game of
Bombardment." It is a German introduction, and although not so good
a game as that of Castle Bagatelle, is very similar in principle,
affords good fun to a round party, and is not quite so expensive to
purchase as the older English toy.
CARPET CROQUET.
_See_ "Parlour Croquet."
CASTLE BAGATELLE.
_See_ "Cannonade."
COMMON WHISTLE.
But little description either of the Common Whistle, or of how to make
it, is necessary, it being so well known. The tin whistle can hardly be
made except with the aid of expensive tools, but it may be purchased at
a very trifling cost. No lad, however, need be without a whistle even
when no toy-shop is near. A good whistle may be made out of almost any
straight piece of scooped-out wood, the model of the tin whistle being
adhered to as closely as possible. A nice piece of elder neatly carved
and plugged may even be made to do duty for a miniature flute, and so
made, various notes are to be extracted from it.
CRACK LOO.
_See_ "Brother Jonathan."
CUP AND BALL.
The Cup and Ball has long been a favourite toy. It consists of a stem
of ivory or some hard wood, one end of which is pointed, while to the
other is fixed a small shallow cup. To the stem an ivory or hard wood
ball is attached by means of a piece of string, and in one side of the
ball a hole is drilled into which the pointed end of the stem fits. The
game is, when the ball is loosely attached to the stem, to throw it up
so as to catch it either within the cup at the one end of the stem, or
on the point at the other end, the latter feat being by far the most
difficult. To accomplish this, the stem is to be held lightly in the
right hand; then make the ball revolve by twirling it between the thumb
and forefinger of the left hand, and when its motion becomes steady,
throw it up with a slight jerk of the right wrist, and as it descends
endeavour to catch it in one of the ways just mentioned. Calculate
well the length of the string in throwing up the ball, so that it is
not thrown to the full length of the string, or it will be almost
impossible to succeed in catching it.
CUPOLETTE.
Although its warmest admirers will hardly maintain that the game
of Cupolette requires much skill, yet it succeeds in affording
considerable amusement. The materials for the game are a board with a
number of sunken and differently numbered cups, a ball for each cup,
and a movable arm, which is attached to the board, and from which a
ball, heavier than the other balls, is suspended by a cord. The play
commences with the balls placed in the cups; the first player then
turns the arm to any position he prefers, draws the suspended ball out
to the full length of its cord, and allows it to swing back, so as to
strike one or more of the balls out of the cups. Each ball knocked out
scores one point; a ball struck out of one cup and into another scores
the number of points indicated by the number of the cup; a ball struck
off the board is lost and scores nothing. Each player is entitled to
four strokes, and each player, as it becomes his turn to play, replaces
all the balls as at first, and proceeds as above. A game is usually
either sixty-one or a hundred and one, according to the number of
players. Sides may be formed if it is desired.
[Illustration: Cupolette.]
CUT-WATER.
The toy known as the Cut-Water is made in the following manner:--Cut a
circular piece of tin or sheet-lead, three inches or so in diameter,
into the form of a circular saw; bore two holes in it along the
diameter at about an inch apart; through these holes pass the two ends
of a string, tie the ends of the string together, and the toy is made.
To use it, the string is to be taken up in the two hands, the metal saw
being allowed to hang loosely at the middle of the string, and then
thrown round and round until the string becomes very tightly twisted.
Upon the hands then being drawn outwards, the string untwists, and the
metal saw rapidly revolves. So soon as the string is all untwisted,
the hands should be allowed to go slightly nearer each other, when
it will be found that the Cut-Water will revolve in the opposite
direction. Again, when the string has become once more twisted, the
hands should be drawn outwards, then inwards, and again outwards, and
so on alternately. The name of "Cut-Water" is derived from a common way
of playing with the toy. It is dipped a little below the surface of
water whilst being spun, and it then sends showers of spray towards the
player who spins it, or away from him, according to the direction in
which it may be spinning.
[Illustration: Cut-Water.]
An imitation Cut-Water may be more readily, and indeed often is, made
by passing a piece of string through two of the holes of a common
breeches' button, and treating the toy so made as explained above.
DANCING HIGHLANDER.
The Dancing Highlander, like the Apple Woman and a few other
imitations described among the toy games, is really a hand performance
supplemented by a few accessories. For the performance of the Dancing
Highlander, get an old glove and cut off the tops of the first two
fingers down to about the second joint; next will be required a very
small pair of baby's socks, which are to be painted some plaid pattern,
and fitted to the first and second fingers. Draw on the glove, then
pull the socks on the first two fingers, padding out that for the first
finger so as to be equal in length to that for the second. The figure
of a Highlander in his national costume, which should have been first
prepared out of cardboard and appropriately coloured, is then to be
pasted on to the back of the glove; the tops of the two first fingers
of the gloves should do duty for shoes, and the uncovered portions
of the performer's fingers will show as the bare knees of the kilted
Scot, who may then be made to dance or perform any of those wild antics
usually attributed to the Highlander when his foot is on his native
heath.
DANCING PEA.
A common pea, two small pins, and a piece of the straight stem of a
broken clay tobacco-pipe, are the requirements for making this curious
little toy. Run the pins crosswise through the pea, and cover their
points with a little bit of sealing-wax, to prevent mischief in the
event of the pins striking any one's face. Put the point of one of
the pins down the stem of the tobacco-pipe, so that the pea will rest
thereon. Place the other end of the pipe in the mouth, holding the head
back and the pipe stem perpendicularly. Upon then blowing steadily the
pea will dance amusingly in the air.
DART AND TARGET.
The apparatus required for this game is easily made. The dart is a
straight piece of stick, about six inches long, with a pin stuck in at
one end, and a paper guide at the other. The pin, which should be an
ordinary large-sized pin, must have the head removed, and be pushed
into the end of the stick, with the point outwards, and then secured
in its place by a piece of twine or sealing-wax. The guide is made of
a square piece of paper folded twice from corner to corner, and then
inserted in cross slits made at the opposite end of the stick. The
target is best if made of a piece of soft wood board, and should have
painted on it three or four concentric circles of different colours,
with a bull's-eye in the centre. The darts should then be thrown at the
target from some distance to be agreed upon, and scores made according
to the nearness of the darts to the bull's-eye. Each circle should be
differently numbered, the outer circle counting one, the next two, and
so on, an extra allowance being made for the bull's-eye.
DARTELLE.
This is the name given to Dart and Target at the toy shops. It makes a
pretty toy, and combines in itself both darts and duly marked target,
with the necessary instructions for play.
DECIMAL GAME.
Get a long piece of board and fix into it ten pins in a row. On each
pin place a ring, and the game then is to make the ten rings into five
pairs of rings in five moves, passing over two occupied pins with every
move. The feat is to be accomplished in the following among other
methods: Let the accompanying diagram represent the pins, board, and
the rings as first placed thereon; remove No. 7 to No. 10, No. 6 to
No. 3, No. 4 to No. 9, No. 8 to No. 2, and No. 1 to No. 5. The changes
may be done in the reverse way, by commencing from No. 4 to No. 1,
instead of No. 7 to No. 10, and so on, and other slight variations may
be introduced. The game may also be played with ten counters, or ten
pieces of paper, on a table or board, and without any pins. Indeed,
children are frequently seen playing the game out of doors with ten
common stones.
[Illustration: Decimal Game.]
DEMON BOTTLE.
Cut a piece of pith of wood, or some equally light substance, into
the shape of a small bottle, and at its base fasten the half of a
small bullet (_a_, _see_ figure). Down the centre of the bottle bore a
hole, and fit the hole with a steel pin (_a_ _b_). The bottle so made
may be rendered obedient to the commands of its owner, who, when he
wishes it to stand upright and resist the commands of the bystanders,
will previously have removed the pin; when he wishes it to act in
the contrary manner he will insert the pin, which will be found to
counteract the weight of the bullet, and the bottle will obediently
recline after receiving its owner's orders to do so; the owner of
course then being careful to give such orders.
[Illustration: Demon Bottle.]
DRAWING-ROOM ARCHERY.
_See_ "Puff and Dart," "Dart and Target," and "Dartelle."
DUTCH RACQUETS.
Dutch Racquets, or the Dutch Top Game, is very similar to the game of
Castle Bagatelle, or Cannonade. The appliances needed are somewhat
expensive, and the description of how to play the game, with the rules
by which it is governed, is supplied with the toy.
The game is played on a board fitted with metal barriers that are
variously numbered, and on the different numbers miniature skittles are
placed. A metal top is then spun at one end of the board, and as it
travels, the skittles, or some of them, will be overthrown. The numbers
covered by the skittles overthrown count towards game.
ENFIELD SKITTLES.
This is a game played on a level board with raised edges. Nine small
wooden pins are arranged at one end of the board as skittles are
arranged in the ordinary skittle-alley game. These skittle pins are
then bowled at by means of a small ivory or boxwood ball, propelled
with an ordinary billiard cue. The game is frequently arranged for on
an ordinary dining-room table, precautions being first taken to prevent
the ball from rolling off.
FLYING CONES.
Flying Cones are made of hard wood, hollow, a hole being made at one
side so as to produce a humming sound when the completed toy is being
spun. Two such cones are fastened together at the apex. The spinning
apparatus consists of two thin sticks, to the tips of which a string
of about a yard long has to be tied. To play the toy, lay the cones on
some flat surface, take one of the sticks in each hand, holding them
at the opposite ends to those to which the string has been attached,
slip the string under the cones, so as to catch them just at that point
where they have been united, being careful that the toy is somewhat
nearer to the right-hand than to the left-hand stick. Next, raise the
sticks, at the same time making such a movement with the right hand as
to set the double cone revolving on the string. By a sort of whipping
movement, first with one hand and then with the other, it may be kept
spinning; when quickly spun, it will make a humming sound, and with
practice considerable dexterity in the use of this toy will be easily
attained.
[Illustration: Flying Cones.]
When the toy has obtained sufficient speed to commence humming, many
pretty feats may be shown with it. It may be flung in the air, and as
it falls it may be caught on the loose or tightened string, or on one
of the sticks, and made to roll towards one or other of the hands of
the player. Two players, each being provided with the necessary sticks,
with string attached, may keep a flying cone spinning a long time, and
at the same time be continually throwing it backwards and forwards from
one to the other. This toy is also known as Le Diable, and is usually
sold in the toy-shops under that name.
FRENCH AND ENGLISH.
_See_ "Slate Games."
GAS BALLOONS.
Small Gas Balloons are made of thin sheet india-rubber or gutta-percha,
or tissue paper; larger ones are made of oiled silk. Cut gores of the
material to be used sufficient in number when fastened together, the
sides of each gore overlapping the gore fastened to it, to form a globe
of the desired size with pear-shaped ends. Join the gores together, so
as to make them completely air-tight; when the heavier materials are
used they should be sewn together, and then covered with glue or thin
varnish. At the lower end of the balloon insert a tube, and tie all the
narrow tips of the gores firmly round it. Cover all with a solution
made of india-rubber dissolved in naphtha and turpentine, and over the
balloon place a net bag that has been previously made of the proper
size and shape.
The gas with which the balloon is to be filled is made in the following
manner:--Put a pound of granulated zinc or iron filings into two
quarts of water in a stone jar, and add gradually a pint of sulphuric
acid. Have a tube of glass or metal run through the bung with which
the jar is corked, and after taking the materials out of doors, fill
the balloon by connecting this tube with the tube already placed at
its mouth. When the balloon is filled, tie its neck very tightly, and
it will rise into the air. Common coal-gas may be used when it can be
obtained. A small car made of some light material may be attached to
the netting which goes over the balloon.
Soap-bubbles inflated with gas may be made in the following
manner:--Fill a bladder with hydrogen gas, adapt a tobacco-pipe to the
mouth of the bladder, and dip the bowl of the pipe into soap and water;
then press the bladder, and bubbles will be duly formed, which floating
away will at once rise in the air.
Toy balloons ready to be filled with hydrogen gas may be now purchased
at many toy-shops, or of philosophical instrument-makers.
GERMAN BALLS.
Luck and skill combined in about equal degrees make the principal charm
of this game, which is a very simple one, and which in many respects
resembles the game of marbles known as "Die Shot."
The game may be played equally well in-doors on a carpeted floor or out
of doors on a lawn, or any other level surface. The materials required
are a number of balls, and a larger ball shaped as a die with eight
sides, numbered respectively 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, and 8. The die is
placed on the ground with the figure 8 downwards, and the players, each
being supplied with a ball, bowl alternately at the die from some point
at a distance from the die to be agreed upon. If the die is missed,
nothing is scored, and in some places the player who misses pays one
to a pool. If the die is hit, the player whose ball hit it scores the
number on the side of the die which remains uppermost.
Under some rules each player puts a stake into a pool, and he who
attains the highest score in a certain number of throws wins the pool.
If, however, any player should succeed in turning the die so that the
number 8 remains uppermost, he takes the pool at once, and a new game
is then commenced.
GERMAN BILLIARDS.
This is a game played with balls on a board on which is a complicated
arrangement of pins, hoops, holes, recesses, and cups, the holes,
recesses, and cups in which are variously numbered. The balls are
propelled by means of a spring fitted into one side of the board, and
the scores are in accordance with the numbers marked in the respective
holes, recesses, and cups that the balls fall into after wandering
through the many pins and hoops that are fixed all over the board.
[Illustration: German Billiards.]
HAT MEASUREMENT.
The practice known as Hat Measurement has sprung up owing to the fact
that very few people either have but very little idea of the probable
height of very common objects, or if they know the actual height in
inches of those objects, are unable to demonstrate that height. The
judgment is very frequently tested by asking the company present to
mark on a wall about the height of an ordinary chimney-pot hat; and in
the majority of cases, upon a hat being actually brought in, it will
be found that the height marked is sufficient for at least a hat and a
half.
HOMEWARD BOUND.
_See_ "Patchesi."
HYDRAULIC DANCER.
Make a little figure out of a piece of cork, pith, or some equally
light material; place in the figure a small hollow cone of thin leaf
brass; then set the figure on any water-jet or small fountain, and it
will remain suspended on the top of the water, and will jump, dance,
and move about in a very amusing manner. A hollow ball of thin copper,
placed on a jet or fountain in a similar way, will remain suspended,
turning round and spreading the water gracefully about it.
IMMOVABLE CARD.
Upon the face of it, and on first thoughts, it would appear to be the
easiest possible thing to blow over an ordinary visiting card placed
on a table, provided it be not secured in any mechanical manner. If
a visiting card is neatly turned down at the narrow edges, about a
quarter or a third of an inch, so that the edges turned down are at
right-angles with the remainder of the card, and the card be then
placed on the turned down edges, the feat would seem to be still
more easy than if the card were simply placed flat on the table. The
contrary, however, is the case, and unless let into the secret one may
blow at a card so placed for hours without being able to overturn it.
To accomplish the feat, the blowing must be done on the table, not on
the card, and at some distance from the card.
INDIAN SKITTLE POOL.
_See_ "Skittle Cannonade."
JACK-IN-THE-BOX.
The toy known as Jack-in-the-Box is familiar to all, and is always the
source of much fun; it may be readily made by any ingenious lad who
will carefully follow the accompanying description:--
The toy consists of a box containing a figure of some comical shape.
Inside the figure a piece of wire, known as the spring, is coiled up,
corkscrew-wise, like the spring within a carriage candle lamp. The box
should be made so that when the lid is closed the wire or spring within
the figure is compressed; on the removal of the pressure from the lid
the wire regains its original form, and out springs the figure. The
figure is sometimes secured to the bottom of the box, and sometimes
attached to the side by a long piece of string, and then when the lid
is suddenly unfastened, Jack will spring out of his hiding-place and
fly up high into the air.
JAPANESE FAN.
_See_ "Magic Fan."
JERK STRAWS.
This is a rough version of the game of Spillikins, or Spelicans,
more fully described further on. Jerk-straws, Jack-straws, or
Juggling-sticks, as they are indifferently called, are a number of
small rounded sticks, forty or fifty or more, about twice as long and
of the same thickness as a common Tandstickor match. These are thrown
loosely in a confused heap upon the table, and the players have to
remove them, one by one, by means of a longer stick, hooked or pointed
as desired, without, in the process of removing one stick, touching
or disturbing any other. The first player removes as many as he can
in this way, but as soon as he disturbs any other than the one to be
removed, in the slightest degree, or touches any other one, he gives
place to the next player, and so on. At the end of the game, the player
has won who has secured the largest number of sticks.
LE DIABLE.
_See_ "Flying Cones."
MAGIC FAN.
The description of several paper toys appears in this section of
the book, but of them all the Magic Fan is the most ingenious, its
varieties being so numerous. It is known by the names of the "Magic
Fan," "Japanese Fan," "Puzzle-Wit," and "Trouble-Wit," and is often
exhibited for profit in the public streets of populous places by
members of that class of people who prefer living by their wits to
working hard. As a toy, however, to be made at home, it is well worth
something more than a mere superficial acquaintanceship.
[Illustration: Magic Fan.]
In its manufacture a piece of good stout paper will be required,
in size twenty-four inches by nineteen, or proportionately larger
or smaller. The paper is to be measured into six equal parts, the
divisions being marked on the margin, as shown in Fig. 1. Double the
paper in half, as shown in Fig. 2. Fold the uppermost half outwards,
making the fold as shown in the same figure by the letters A A. Turn
the paper over and fold the other half in precisely the same way, thus
making the paper as shown in Fig. 3. Upon examining the edge A A A, two
openings between the folds will be seen, whereas at the edge B B B,
three openings will be found. The hand has next to be inserted into the
middle of these latter openings, and the paper folded outwards to the
right and left, and turned over, when it will show as in Fig. 4. Then
pinch the paper from end to end in plaits like a ruff, three-eighths of
an inch in depth, so that when it is all pinched it will be in small
compass, as in the Fig. 5. The Magic Fan is then complete, and all that
remains is to learn how to produce its variety of shapes. It is said
that as many as from sixty to seventy varieties have been produced;
a few only will, however, be here indicated, as by attention to the
directions now given it will be a comparatively easy matter to ring
the changes on the kinds specified. It must always be remembered that
every time the form of the fan is changed, the paper must be again well
pinched together, in order that the folds of the plaits may remain
plainly and strongly marked. Unless the folds are kept in order the fan
cannot be properly worked.
[Illustration: Magic Fan.]
To produce the first form, the common-shaped fan, Fig. 6, catch the
folded paper, Fig. 5, at the bottom with both hands, pinch it in and
then spread out the top. For Fig. 7, insert the fingers at A and pass
them round to B, raising the paper. To turn Fig. 7 into Fig. 8, insert
the fingers at C and pass them round to D.
For the next change, catch the paper by the part now uppermost, pinch
that part well together, and the paper takes the form of a scoop
(Fig. 9), the upper part of the fan, Fig. 8, becoming the handle of
the scoop. Pinch the paper again into the form of Fig. 5, lift up the
upper part A, bring the lower plaits, B, well together, and with one
hand arrange the upper part, so as to form the head of a mushroom
(Fig. 10). A new form may be got by raising part of the double head of
the mushroom. For Fig. 11, reverse the paper and spread out the lower
part, so that it may represent the body of a wine-glass, that which
in Fig. 10 was the head of the mushroom will soon appear as the foot
of the glass. To make the Chinese lantern, Fig. 12, open out all the
paper and twist it round; catch it now by the central part, and by
compressing the central folds well together, something like two of the
enormous wheels of a steam stone-crusher will be produced (Fig. 13).
The butter cooler, Fig. 14, is obtained by opening the paper out again
and catching it at the two ends.
The original form, Fig. 5, must then be again reverted to, and a fresh
start may be made by catching the paper at both ends and folding it
so as to represent Fig. 15. By drawing it out the table mat, Fig.
16, will next be shown. Raise up the paper at the letters A and B of
Fig. 16, and there will appear a dish in the form of Fig. 17. Fig.
18 is obtained by then pressing the paper inwards. The sentry box,
Fig. 19, comes by drawing the paper out, and letting it loose at the
foot. And so on, many shapes not here set forth may be obtained.
Experiment freely on the Magic Fan; if spoiled it costs nothing but a
little patience and a few minutes of time to remake, and a dexterous
lad will produce staircases, sofas, chairs, flower-pots, windows and
window-blinds, nightcaps, boxes, &c. &c. &c.
MAGIC FIGURE.
This is an amusing and easily made toy. Its peculiarity lies in this,
that however it may be knocked about, so long as it remains whole, it
rises of its own accord to its feet and retains its balance with a
gently swaying motion. The figure should be cut out of cork or pith, or
something equally light, and may be clothed by gumming on to it some
silk floss or other similar substance; to its base, but hidden as much
as possible, should be fastened the half of a leaden bullet, with the
semicircular side undermost. The weight of the pedestal will then be
sufficient to secure the recovery of the figure immediately after being
made to lie prostrate.
[Illustration: Magic Figure.]
It will be seen by reference that the principle underlying the
manufacture of this toy is similar to that of the Demon Bottle,
previously described, the variation being the steel pin in the bottle
which, when inserted, counteracts the effect of the weight adjusted to
the base of the figure.
MAGIC FLUTE.
The magic flute is to be made out of a good sound and unused cork,
which has in it neither holes nor cracks. Place the cork against the
teeth, holding it tightly between the lips, and play upon it with the
handles of two prongs or forks or the bowls of two spoons. An imitation
of the piccolo or small flute will thus be produced, and almost any
simple quick air may be played upon it.
MAGICIAN OF MOROCCO.
The Magician of Morocco is a hand performance similar in character to
those described under the headings of the Apple Woman and the Dancing
Highlander. He is made (_see_ Fig. 1) by holding up a hand, bending
down the fourth and little fingers, placing the thumb in front, holding
the first finger straight up, and the middle finger slanting half-way
between the first and fourth fingers. The top joint of the first finger
is to be dotted to represent a face, and on the tip of the finger
a handkerchief, knotted at one corner to represent a cap, is to be
placed, the remainder of the handkerchief being draped about the hand
to do duty for the robe (_see_ Fig. 2). This robe looks more effective
if the handkerchief out of which it is made is of some bright colour or
colours; an Indian silk handkerchief makes both a capital robe and cap
combined; the cap may, indeed, then be easily made to look very like an
ordinary Turkish fez.
[Illustration: Fig. 1.--Skeleton of the Magician.]
It will thus be seen that while the first finger in the hand does duty
for head, shoulders, and bust, the middle finger, when the whole figure
is held sideways to the company, shows as the arms, and the body is
made full by means of the position of the thumb and other two fingers.
It is necessary that the Magician of Morocco should have some long
outlandish name, and to ensure his success that he should be very
voluble with quackeries, divinations, tricks, jests, prophecies,
conundrums, scandals, and nonsense of every sort and description; his
conversation being accompanied by judicious nods and twists of the
head, as it will not be easy to impart much of a twinkle to his eyes.
[Illustration: Fig. 2.--The Magician of Morocco.]
MAGNETIC SWAN.
The Magnetic Swan, and other articles made in the same manner, will
illustrate the properties of the Magnetic Wand. A number of such
articles, to represent swans, ducks, small boats, &c., may be made and
placed in a basin or tub of water, and kept in motion by a judicious
use of the wand. Be careful to model the articles so that they may
undoubtedly represent those objects they are intended to resemble.
Swans, ducks, boats, and such birds and things as swim or float on the
surface of water, should be made out of cork, pith, or light wood, with
a small piece of magnetised steel run through the body. Swans should
be covered with white wax, thinly spread over the body of the bird,
and the ducks and boats should be treated in the same way, with the
addition of being properly coloured afterwards. Glass beads for eyes
may be placed in the heads of the birds. Some care in balancing and
loading these objects will have to be taken to ensure them floating
properly and steadily.
Fish may also be made in a similar way, but much nicety has to be shown
to load them so as to sink them below the surface of the water, and
yet to make them sufficiently buoyant to keep them from sinking to the
bottom.
Toys of this nature are supplied at a small cost at most toy-shops.
MAGNETIC WAND.
A number of very pleasing experiments may be performed by means of
the Magnetic Wand. It is made out of a rod of hard wood, about ten
inches long by a third of an inch thick. A hole is to be drilled into
this rod, and in the hole is to be placed a strongly magnetised steel
wire. Two small knobs should then be placed upon the reverse ends of
the wand, and, in order that it may be readily known at which end of
the wand is the attractive and at which end the repellent point of
the magnetised wire, the knobs ought either to be differently carved
or one or both of them should bear some distinctive mark. The letters
N and S are suitable as specifying the north and the south poles, by
which terms the opposite ends of the magnetised wire are scientifically
expressed. The wand so made is complete, and by holding one or other
of its ends to the tips of small articles floating in water, made
after the manner described in the manufacture of the Magnetic Swan,
such articles may be made to either follow after or swim from the wand
according as it is the north or the south pole which is held out.
It is an easy matter to magnetise a bit of steel wire, and under this
heading of how to make a Magnetic Wand, a few hints on magnetising
common objects of steel and iron will not be out of place.
An ordinary poker may be magnetised in a very simple manner. Hold it in
the left hand, pointing it somewhat inclined from the perpendicular, so
that the lower end is towards the north, then strike the poker several
times smartly with a large iron hammer, and to a slight extent it
will then be found to possess the powers of a magnet. Another method
is as follows:--Get an old large iron poker, and a similar pair of
tongs, such as may be found forming a part of the set of fire-irons
formerly supplied for kitchen use. Fix the poker upright, and hold
to it a bar about three inches long of soft steel, which should be
about a quarter of an inch broad, but not more than a twentieth of an
inch in thickness. Make on one end of the steel a mark, and let that
end be held downwards. The steel should not be held to the poker with
the hand, but should be suspended on a piece of silk held in the left
hand, and so suspended as to touch the poker. Then grasp the tongs a
little below the middle with the right hand, and keeping them as nearly
vertical as possible, rub the steel bar with the lower end of the
tongs, from the marked end of the bar to its upper end about ten times
on each side of it. By this means the bar will receive enough magnetism
to enable it to lift at the marked end a small steel key. Or if the bar
so magnetised be suspended at its centre, and made to rest on a point,
the marked end will turn to the north.
Steel fireirons which have remained untouched during the summer period,
and have at the same time remained resting on the fender, in an
ordinary living-room, will be found after a few months to have become
possessed of magnetic properties.
A common sewing needle is readily magnetised by passing, when gently
pressed against it, the north pole of a magnet from the eye to the
point of the needle. After the end of the needle has been reached, the
magnet must not be passed back along it again to the eye, or the effect
will be destroyed; but the effect is increased if the magnet is passed
several times in succession from the eye to the point. A needle so
magnetised may be used in the place of the magnetised wire required for
a small Magnetic Wand.
MAGNIFYING PINHOLE.
_See_ "Microscope (Toy)."
MECHANICAL BUCEPHALUS.
_See_ "Pegasus in Flight."
MICROSCOPE (TOY).
Toy microscopes, or miniature microscopes that may be easily made, are
of two sorts. The first and simplest is sometimes called the Magnifying
Pinhole. Take a blackened card, and make a hole in it with the point of
a fine needle. Hold up the card, and look through the hole so made at
any small object held at about an inch from the card, and the object
so held will appear magnified about ten times. Remove the card from
the eye, leaving the object looked at in its former position, and it
will then not be seen at all; this is accounted for from the well-known
quality of the eye that it is unable unaided to discover a single
object not more than an inch away.
Another sort of toy microscope is made out of a thin plate of lead
or brass. Bore a hole in it with a fine awl or a large needle, and
let a drop of clear water fall into the hole so as to fill it up
completely. Then place any object that it is wished to examine below
the thin plate, and immediately below the globule of water. Look
through the globule, and the object looked at will be seen, apparently
magnified about a hundred and fifty times. A full water-bottle also has
microscopic powers.
MOCKING CALL.
The Mocking Call is a little instrument by which one may imitate the
song of birds, animals, and various other sounds, and is to be made in
the following manner:--Cut a small square piece from the green leaf of
a common leek, lay it on a table or clean board, and with great care
scrape away a piece of the green pulpy substance of the leaf, being
very careful on no account to injure the fine outer skin. Place the
instrument so made in the roof of the mouth, with that side downwards
on which is the outer skin. Press the instrument gently with the tongue
into its place, and then blow between the tongue and the upper teeth.
At first sounds will be emitted that will not readily be recognised as
similar to those of birds or animals, but with practice and patience
the barking of a dog, the neighing of a horse, or the notes of many of
the song birds, may be successfully imitated. When the Mocking Call is
not in use, it should be kept moist by placing it in a glass of water.
This toy is useful when used in a ventriloquial entertainment.
MOORISH FORT.
The game of Moorish Fort is a good round game of skill. It is a
comparatively new game, and is supplied by the toy-dealers, with rules,
at a reasonable price; but as the materials to play the game with may
be found in any tolerably extensive collection of toys if supplemented
by a fort and a few rods, which can easily be made, some readers of
this book may, if unable to purchase the materials, feel inclined to
practise their ingenuity in adapting the toys they possess to play the
game.
[Illustration: Fig. 1.--The Fort.]
A round fort, constructed in the manner shown in the accompanying
woodcut (Fig. 1), is placed in the centre of an ordinary dining-room
table. The players should number six or less, and be divided into two
sides, each side taking opposite positions; each player should be
provided with a small round ball (those supplied with nine-pins do
admirably), and the player, armed with a cue about eighteen inches to
two feet long (Fig. 2, A), should strike his ball towards the fort.
A rest for the cue (Fig. 2, B), with x-piece at the end, of the same
length as the cue should also be supplied, to facilitate the striking
of the ball when at a distance from the player, as it is to be made a
rule that no player may, when playing, place his hands or arms on the
table. That side which first gets all its balls into the fort wins, but
a code of rules may be drafted embodying these and other regulations at
the pleasure of the players.
[Illustration: Fig. 2.--Cue (a) and Rest (b).]
NAVETTE.
The game of Navette is played with a bridge having numerous arches,
each one of which bears a distinctive number, higher or lower,
according to the size of the arch and the difficulty of attaining the
object of the game, which is bowling discs, or small balls, at the
bridge when placed on the floor or on the table, so that the balls may
pass under one or other of the arches of the bridge. The players bowl
alternately at the bridge, and he who makes the highest score in an
agreed number of bowls of the ball wins. The arch-board used in marble
games may be utilised for this game.
[Illustration: Navette.]
NINE PINS.
The toy-box containing Nine Pins, for playing the game of that name,
together with the requisite number of balls, is to be purchased for a
very trifling sum. Inasmuch as both pins and balls have to be turned in
a lathe, it is almost impossible for any lad with an ordinary chest of
tools to make them for himself, and, indeed, the game of Nine Pins is
not a game usually played at by lads of an age able to make their own
toys--it is a very small child's game. The game is played in two ways,
either by throwing or bowling the balls at the pins, or by attaching a
ball to a rope or string suspended from the ceiling, and so swinging
the ball at the pins.
The pins may be set up in any manner agreeable to the players, either
in a line, circle, or in the same way as in the game of skittles, in
the form shown in the diagram. The number of pins knocked down counts
towards game, and the player who can knock all down in the fewest
throws or swings of the ball wins.
[Illustration:
*
* *
* * *
* *
*
Plan of Nine Pins.]
NOUGHTS AND CROSSES.
_See_ "Slate Games."
OBEDIENT SOLDIER.
A toy similar in principle to the Demon Bottle, previously described,
is the toy known as the Obedient Soldier. He should be made of pith,
cork, or some very light wood, should be carved with a soldier's
busby and tunic, and have in his arms a rifle at the "shoulder arms"
position. The barrel of the rifle must be made hollow, in order that in
it may be placed, when desired, a piece of solid steel wire. The whole
figure is to be fastened at the feet on to the flat side of the half
of a leaden bullet. Upon the steel wire being inserted in the barrel
of the rifle, the soldier will lie down, and upon its being removed he
will stand upright. The secret of these actions should rest with the
performer who shows off the ways of the Obedient Soldier, and it will
be necessary, in order to preserve this secrecy, that some dexterity be
exhibited in the placing or removing of the steel wire.
[Illustration: Obedient Soldier.]
PALADA.
The game of Palada is a game very much resembling that of Cup and Ball,
and has become quite a popular amusement. The toy consists of a slim
and tapering rod, the thick end of which is used as the handle, and at
the opposite end is a piece of cane bent into an oval form. Attached to
the rod, and at about a foot or a foot and a half from the oval end,
a solid egg-shaped substance is fastened by a piece of string half
as long again as the distance from the oval end towards which it is
secured. The object of the game is to catch the egg-shaped substance
on the oval end of the rod, which is made large enough to allow of the
egg finding a secure resting-place, but at the same time smaller than
the egg, so that it may not fall through.
[Illustration: Palada.]
PAPER TOYS.
A very considerable number of toys may be constructed out of paper
alone, and much amusement may be obtained in the making of such toys,
as well as from the uses to which they can be put when made. The Magic
Fan and kindred objects have been explained under that heading, and the
following are a few other objects that, with a little practice, it will
be found very easy for any one to make at pleasure.
_Paper Bellows._--The first in the alphabetical list of paper toys is
that known as paper bellows, and a very good imitation of a pair of
bellows it will be found to be.
Get a piece of paper of the substance of an ordinary sheet of
note-paper, cut it into a square each side of which is at least twelve
inches long, and fold it double, by making two of the corners meet with
the middle line stretching between the other two corners. Open the
paper out and fold it again, by making the other two corners meet, and
upon it being again opened out, the folds will be left in the shape of
a St. Andrew's Cross. Turn the paper over, and holding two of the folds
between the finger and thumb of each hand, press them inward, and press
the paper quite flat, so as to make it take the form shown in Fig. 1.
Make the corners _a_ and _b_ meet at _e_; turn the paper over, and
make the corners _c_ and _d_ also meet at the same point _e_. Turn the
first side uppermost again, and the paper will show as in Fig. 2. Make
creases in the paper, by folding _a_ to _b_, _a_ to _c_, _d_ to _b_,
and _d_ to _c_; the creases should then show as indicated by the dotted
lines in the figure, the paper being folded out immediately after each
inward fold. Next pinch together between the finger and thumb those
parts indicated by the letters _a, x, z_ and _d, w, y_; pinch first
the one, and then the other, and the paper will fall naturally into
the form given by the folds, and will appear like Fig. 3; the dotted
lines outside the figure representing the reverse side of the paper,
the letters _a, b, c_ forming the handle of one side of the bellows.
Afterwards turn the paper over, and do with the other side as last
described, by first folding the paper and then pinching it into shape;
the handle of the other side of the bellows will so be formed, and the
toy is complete, as represented by Fig. 4. The bellows are blown by
alternately pulling out the paper by the handles and closing it again
quickly, when wind will be found coming out of the bellows at the point
marked _A_.
[Illustration: Paper Bellows.]
_Paper Boat._--For this toy the size of the paper should be nine inches
by six, or with sides of proportionate length. Double the paper as in
Fig. 1; turn up the corners _a a_, until they meet at _b_, when paper
will look as in Fig. 2; turn down the two sides _c_, one to the one
side, and the other to the other side, to the dotted line _d d_. Insert
the thumb of each hand, and pull out the paper so that it may take the
form of Fig. 3; being careful in so doing to arrange neatly the corners
_d d_ of Fig. 2. Turn up the points marked _e_ in Fig. 3, one to the
one side, and the other to the other, till they touch the point _f_,
folding at the dotted line of the figure. Insert the thumbs again, and
pull out the paper to make the form shown in Fig. 4. Lastly, take hold
of the paper with the finger and thumb of each hand at the points _g
g_, and pull them gently outwards right and left, being careful not to
press the inside, and the boat will be complete as in Fig. 5.
[Illustration: Paper Boat.]
_Paper Boxes._--Cut a piece of paper into a square of dimensions
according to taste, or according to the size of the box required. As a
first attempt a piece of paper about six or eight inches square will
be found to be most convenient. Make folds in the paper according to
the dotted lines shown in Fig. 1, remembering that in making paper
boxes the paper is never to remain folded, except in the last figure,
and that the folds are merely to be looked upon as marks for future
guidance. Then fold the corners A B C D into the centre, and the folds
will show as in Fig. 2. Next fold over and unfold alternately, A to H,
B to F, C to I, and D to G, after which the folds should appear as in
Fig. 3. Then in the same way fold and unfold A to N, B to M, C to L,
and D to K, when the dotted lines in Fig. 4 should each be represented
by a fold in the paper. Take a pencil or pen and mark the paper in
accordance with the black lines of Fig. 4, and cut with a pen-knife
at all those marks, removing such pieces as will necessarily become
detached. Fold and _keep folded_ the short sides _x_ and _y_ of the
corners A and D, so that they may pass easily through the slits in
the opposite corners B and C. Lastly, and to finish the box, pass the
folded corner A through the slit in the corner C, then opening out the
folds in order to make the fastening secure; pass the folded corner D
through the slit in the corner B in the same way, and at the same time
fold in the side that would otherwise overlap.
[Illustration: Paper Boxes.]
[Illustration: Paper Boxes.]
_Paper Chinese Junk._--This paper toy is one of the most complicated
and difficult of all the paper toys to make; it requires for its
explanation several diagrams, and in the making of it much patience.
It takes as long to get into proper shape as it does to form many of
the different varieties described under the heading of Magic Fan, and
unless great care has been taken throughout, there is great chance of
the junk turning out but a poor affair after all. In spite of, nay in
consequence of, the difficulties, however, it is worth attempting. Take
a piece of paper about a foot square, and find its centre by cross
folding it corner to corner; fold the four corners into the centre as
in Fig. 1, and fold the sides A B and C D to the dotted line E F, so
that Fig. 2 will appear. Keep the side of Fig. 2, represented in the
diagram, outwards, and double the paper longways to form Fig. 3. Fold
both the sides at A B of that figure to the points C D, and the small
Fig. 4 will result. Open out again to make Fig. 2, and just under the
middle of the outer flaps will be found the four corners of the paper;
take two of those corners, one between the finger and thumb of each
hand, and pull them out to make the elongated Fig. 5. Double the paper
of that figure by the fold A B, so that the two points C D may touch
each other back to back. The paper now appears as Fig. 6, and it is
from here that great care and patience to complete the toy successfully
will have to be shown. Take between the forefinger and thumb of each
hand the two sides A B, and by pressing them outwards contrive so as to
bring the line A C to be parallel with the line C D, and the line B C
to the line C E. Into this position the paper must be folded flat, when
it will be found to be in the form shown in Fig. 7. Fold the points A B
C so that they will all meet evenly at the point D, and then fold the
paper so that the line E F will be parallel to and upon G H. Turn the
paper over, and treat the reverse side in exactly the same manner. Upon
the exactness with which these Figs. 6 and 7 are dealt with depends
the success of the endeavour, and if properly done the folding, when
completed, should leave the paper as shown in the accompanying Fig. 8.
[Illustration: Paper Chinese Junk.]
Insert the fingers then between the folds in that part, which will
readily be found, where the paper may be easily pulled outwards right
to left, when it will take a box form with overhanging flaps, as shown
in Fig. 9. Place the two thumbs boldly on the tops of the two sides
marked A and B, and press them firmly down to the table, making the
folds inwards, as shown in the dotted line C D. Fig. 10 appears upon
the box (Fig. 9) being then turned upside down; fold the line A B so
as to produce the fold W X, and press the paper firmly down; fold the
line C D to produce the fold Y Z, and again press firmly down. Turn the
paper, and it should be fairly represented by Fig. 11. Double the paper
outwards by the dotted line, and it will appear like Fig. 12. The test
of accuracy in performance now appears. Take the points A and B of Fig.
12 between the forefinger and thumb of each hand, and pull carefully,
slowly, and steadily outwards, forcing nothing; if thoroughly made the
junk will come quite readily, and will appear bottom uppermost. Turn
it over, and raise up the pieces of paper which will be found inside
at either end of the boat to do duty as backs to the seats, and all is
finished, and should appear as shown in Fig. 13.
In endeavouring to make this toy, keep well in mind that old, old
couplet, that the elders are so fond of quoting to the youngsters for
their encouragement and edification--
"If at first you don't succeed, Try, try, try again."
[Illustration: Paper Dart.]
_Paper Dart._--The Paper Dart is one of the easiest made of the paper
toys, and when made will last some time, if put only to its legitimate
use. It is best made of a piece of good stout paper, which should
be cut so that it is at least half as long again as it is broad.
Double the paper lengthways, and make the fold _x z_, as shown in the
accompanying figure, opening out the paper again; then turn up the two
corners to meet at the points _a a_, and next turn the points _b b_
to the point _c_ in the same figure, when the paper should appear as
indicated by the dotted lines in the figure. Again fold the paper, and
retain it folded at the line _x z_; fold down the outside edges so that
they are parallel with that fold, and open out the wings so made, and
the dart is complete. To throw it, hold the paper on the line _x z_
between the thumb and forefinger, take the necessary aim, and cast the
dart; its motion through the air will be found to be accompanied with
a graceful curve, and to make an accurate aim allowance must be made
for the curve. Boys sometimes amuse themselves by fighting sham battles
with toys of this description.
_Paper Hat (Pyramidal)._--The Pyramidal Paper Hat is to be made, so
far as its initial stages are concerned, in just the same way as the
manufacture of the Paper Boat is proceeded with, and which is fully
described in its proper place. The size of the paper out of which the
hat is to be made must be decided by the size of the hat required. To
make it, proceed as in the manufacture of the Paper Boat, and when
the paper is in the form represented by the dotted line in Fig. 2,
illustrating that toy, stop short, and turn in the corners of the paper
corresponding with the dotted line in the figure, and the Paper Hat
will be finished.
[Illustration: Paper Hat.]
_Paper Parachute._--To make a toy paper parachute, take a square piece
of tissue or other light paper, and fold it from corner to corner into
a triangular shape; fold it again from corner to corner, and again a
third time fold it in the same way, and then double it so as to give it
the appearance shown by Fig. 1 in the accompanying diagram. Cut with a
sharp penknife through all the folds of the paper, shown by the dotted
lines, and pierce a hole at the point marked A quite through; then,
when the paper is opened out, it will be found to be as shown in Fig.
2. Fasten threads, all of which are to be of the same length, through
each hole; bring the loose ends of the thread to a point, fasten them
there together, and attach to them a piece of cardboard or folded paper
as ballast. The whole toy will then be complete, as shown in Fig. 3. If
the parachute be then taken into the open air, and when a good breeze
is blowing, the air will soon catch under the toy and carry it up to a
considerable height. In the absence, however, of a wind, it requires
some dexterity to set the parachute off successfully, and it may be
much aided by the use of an arrow and a common bow. A small hole is cut
in the top of the paper, in which the point of an arrow is inserted
and fixed to the end by a little paste or gum. The ends of the thread
should then be tied at about half-way down the shaft of the arrow,
and, when complete, it will have very much the appearance of a closed
parasol (_see_ Fig. 4). If the arrow is then placed on the string of
the bow and shot into the air, the parachute will on coming down open
out and sail away gracefully, and more or less swiftly according to the
current of air into which it may be propelled from the bow.
[Illustration: Paper Parachute.]
_Paper Purses._--Paper Purses are somewhat complicated in their
manufacture, and when made are not the most serviceable of receptacles
for money. As an exercise of ingenuity and care in the making they are
worth attempting. Cut a piece of paper, tolerably soft and pliable,
into a square, fold it into three equal parts, and when so folded again
fold three times (Fig. 1); the paper now should again take the square
shape, but much reduced in size. Take the paper when so folded between
the forefinger and thumb of each hand, and pinch it into the star-like
form shown in Fig. 3. Then open out the paper as at the beginning,
being careful not to press it flat, but to retain clearly the marks of
all the folds, which should be impressed as shown in Fig. 2. Catch the
opposite corners at the points _a_ and _b_ and _c_ and _d_ respectively
between the fingers and thumb of each hand, and by gently twisting and
screwing the paper, humour it so that the folds will arrange themselves
and leave the paper as shown in Fig. 4. Turning now to Fig. 4, fold the
point _a_ to the point _b_, _c_ to _d_, and _e_ to _f_, which should
then leave the paper as shown in the Fig. 5. Insert the point _g_ of
that figure into an opening that will be found between the points _h_
and _i_, and the purse, properly closed, is complete.
[Illustration: Paper Purses.]
The chief of the paper toys made by merely folding the paper have now
been described; there are doubtless many other simple ones that need
no description, and it has not been considered advisable to enter into
the details as to the many simple toys that may be cut out of stiff
paper or cardboard. Light-fingeredness, guided by a very small quantity
of ingenuity and inventive powers, will suggest the uses to which
cardboard may be put as an in-door amusement in the manufacture of
sundry toys and other miniature articles. A very nice suite of doll's
furniture may be readily cut out of pieces of stiff cardboard.
PARLOUR BOWLS.
This is an interesting game, adapted for any number of persons, and in
principle is very similar to the game of Bowls, as described at large
among the Lawn Games. The balls are, of course, very different in size
to those used out of doors, and are made and adapted for in-door play.
Each player is provided with two balls of the same colour, which he
bowls towards a jack or die, the jack being placed at the side of the
room opposite to that from which the players are stationed. The players
decide the order in which they play, and then each one alternately
bowls one of the balls towards the jack, and he who succeeds in placing
his bowl nearest to the jack wins the game. When the players are more
than three they may be divided into opposing sides, and it is then
legitimate to play so as to knock an opponent's bowl away from, or a
partner's bowl near to, the jack; scores should then be calculated
after each round, according to the various distances that the bowls
are from the jack. The game described in this book as German Balls is
sometimes also known as Parlour Bowls.
PARLOUR CROQUET.
There are three versions of the lawn game of Croquet that are played
in-doors, and are known as Carpet Croquet, Parlour Croquet, and Table
Croquet respectively. These are all recently introduced games, and
are deservedly popular. The mallets, balls, and arches are made of
different sizes and shapes according to the game; they are all more or
less similar to those used in the out-door game, and may be obtained,
with the necessary rules, which are only adaptations of the rules of
the out-door game, of the toy-dealers. Each version of the game may
be played by eight or any less number of players. The peculiarity of
_Carpet Croquet_ is, as its name implies, that it is played on the
carpet, and the hoops used are fitted into flat metal stands, so that
the balls roll over the stand without hindrance. _Parlour Croquet_ is
played on a mahogany board lined with cloth, and which is made level by
means of adjusting-screws fitted underneath. _Table Croquet_ is played
on an ordinary dining-table, and with the other materials for playing
the game are supplied cloth cushions to place round the edge of the
table to prevent the balls from rolling off.
PARLOUR QUOITS.
An in-door game played with rings very similar to those used in the
lawn game of Quoits is known variously as Parlour Quoits, Annulette,
and Ringolette. The game bears but slight resemblance to the out-door
game of Quoits, but is more nearly allied to that of Skip or Ring the
Nail, which will be found among the Minor Out-door Games.
The game is one of skill, and is adapted for any number of players; it
is played on a round board, or sometimes on an inclined plane. On the
board nine pins, pegs, standards, or skittles of various colours, or
differently numbered, are fixed, and the game consists in the players
endeavouring to throw each of nine rings--coloured or numbered, as the
case may be, to correspond with the pegs--on to its appropriate peg,
each player counting towards game the number of the rings successfully
thrown upon the proper pegs. Penalties are incurred by lodging a
ring on any peg other than that to which it is proper. Each player
alternately should throw all the nine rings.
PATCHESI, OR HOMEWARD BOUND.
This is one of the many varieties of the Race Game, described more
in detail under that heading further on; the game of Homeward Bound
differing in that it should be played by four persons instead of an
indefinite number, as in the ordinary race game.
Each player is provided with dice and dice-box, or, if it be preferred,
the game may be played with a common numbered teetotum. The board on
which the game is played is arranged as shown in the accompanying
diagram, and three pieces or men are allotted to each player,
who--according to the throws of the dice, and subject to such laws as
have been laid down, or as may be laid down, by the players--has to
move these men first along the two outer rows of squares up towards
home, returning the reverse way, and ultimately up the centre row to
home. Whoever first reaches home wins the game.
[Illustration: Patchesi.]
PEGASUS IN FLIGHT.
This is one of the few balancing toys which may be readily made, and
which will afford much amusement to all, and wonder to those who
have not taken the pains to understand the principle on which it is
constructed. It furnishes a solution of a popular mechanical problem or
paradox, viz., "_how to prevent a body, having a tendency to fall by
its own weight, from falling, by adding to its weight on the same side
on which its tendency is to fall_."
[Illustration: Pegasus in Flight.]
The Pegasus in Flight when complete is fairly represented in the
accompanying illustration. It should be made out of a small toy figure
of a horse in which the centre of gravity is found in, or very near to,
the middle of the body. The wings, which are merely added for the sake
of adornment, and to make the toy resemble in appearance the fabled
charger after which it is named, should be attached to the figure
at a point just behind the shoulders; the wings should be of equal
weight and so adjusted as to keep the balance of the figure true. They
may, however, if desired, be entirely dispensed with, or any other
addition, according to fancy, may be put upon the horse's back. A wire
bent to a curve, and to the end of which a small leaden ball has first
to be attached, is to be fastened to the middle of the under part of
the horse. Upon the hind feet of the horse being then set at rest on
the edge of a table, and in such a position that the leaden ball is
beneath the edge of the table, the animal may be made to rock to and
fro without any fear of its being upset, and the longer the wire,
provided only the proper curve is given to it, the longer will be the
distance that the toy will sway upwards and downwards. This toy is also
sometimes known by the name of the Mechanical Bucephalus, but it should
then be made minus the wings, as is also the case when it is simply
exhibited under the still more common description of the Prancing Horse.
PITH DANCER.
The Pith Dancer is a very pleasing dancing toy, and possesses the great
merit of being easily made. It is a little figure made of cork, pith,
or some other equally light material. At one end of the substance cut
out a head and bust, and at the other end stick in four hog's bristles
of equal length, so that the figure will stand erect thereon. To make
the figure effective in appearance, paint the face, put a little cap on
the head, add a pair of arms, and dress it in a cloak which may be made
of some light stuff like tissue paper. When the figure is completely
made and equipped, stand it on the bristles upon the sounding board
of a piano, and play some brisk and lively tune. The vibration of the
piano will then make the figure dance with much spirit, vivacity, and
originality.
PRANCING HORSE.
_See_ "Pegasus in Flight."
PROPHET.
The Prophet, or Sybil, as it is sometimes called, is a toy affording
much amusement and diversion for the youngsters during the winter
evenings. By its aid fortunes may be told and predictions as to
circumstances of the future made with great confidence, for if the
predictions should happen by any chance not to come true, the whole
responsibility can be readily cast upon the Prophet. The toy is easily
made, and by varying the table of prognostications the Prophet's
opinion on an almost endless variety of topics may be taken.
[Illustration: The Prophet, or Sybil.]
To make the toy, cut a piece of pasteboard, a few inches in diameter,
into a circle, and ornament the edges with some pieces of fancy
paper. Then mark on the white surface of the pasteboard twenty equal
divisions, by means of lines radiating from the centre, and within
each division place a number ranging in order from one to twenty. The
figure of the Prophet should be made so that he has a venerable and
sedate appearance, should be clothed in a robe reaching to his feet,
and he should hold in one hand a small rod for a wand, which is to be
made pointing downwards. The figure may perhaps be purchased, but it is
better that it should be made, as it may then be more readily adapted
to the taste or fancy, and it can be easily cut out of wood, cork,
cardboard, or some other material. It will add much to the general
appearance if the Prophet be supplied with a loose white beard.
When the card and figure are finished, the card is to be mounted upon a
small wooden stand, through the centre of which a steel wire is placed,
and the figure of the Prophet is to be fixed on the wire in such a
manner that it may revolve freely.
The next thing to be done is to draw up a table of prognostications,
which must equal in number the spaces marked upon the cardboard disc.
This may be done in many ways. Sometimes the company present may be
requested each to supply a set, or to supply alternately one of a
set; or it is better, perhaps, that he who is about to show off the
oracle should previously have supplied himself with several sets, one
of which, of course, must only be used at a time. The sets should
be so arranged that each one is complete in itself, and the various
prognostications in a set should bear some sort of relation one to the
other.
When all is ready, the performer should desire some one of the company
to have his or her fortune told. The prognostications to be used are
then to be handed to some other person, and the figure of the Prophet
is to be set spinning, and according to the number of the division at
which the wand of the Prophet points when it comes to a standstill, so,
according to the prognostication bearing the corresponding number, may
the fortune of the inquirer be expected to be.
The following prognostications may either be used, or may serve as
models upon which tables can be drawn up:--
1.--At the end of a changeful life, wealth.
2.--Early and prosperous marriage.
3.--Great success at school.
4.--A speedy and important journey.
5.--Will spend much time from home.
6.--Hours of pleasure, followed by years of care.
7.--May expect to be thwarted.
8.--Will have invitations to numerous parties.
9.--All work and no play makes Jack a dull boy.
10.--Travels by land, and voyages by sea.
11.--Many changes will be your lot.
12.--It will be your misfortune, not your fault.
13.--A hearty playmate and a constant friend.
14.--Changes in love at an early date.
15.--A long life and a merry one.
16.--Fears from a rival, but success ultimately will be yours.
17.--Beware of a false friend.
18.--Bright and cheerful in youth.
19.--Unhappy ere long, but the sunshine will follow in the end.
20.--Your present sweetheart will not be your mate.
It will be seen that some of the above are very definite, but it is
generally advisable that the prognostications should be vague, and
capable of more than one interpretation, or the infallibility of the
Prophet is likely not to be implicitly believed in. The Prophet is a
very useful toy to introduce into a drawing-room entertainment for
children, especially where he is not known (and he is not frequently
met with); a few sets of prognostications will prove a source of a good
half-hour's fun with a lot of inquiring youngsters.
PUFF AND DART.
The game of Puff and Dart is very similar to that already described
under the heading of "Dart and Target," and is one of the games
included by many under the more general description of Drawing-room
Archery. The dart is made in the same manner, but of a smaller size, as
is the dart used in the game of Dart and Target, but instead of being
thrown from the hand towards the target as in that game, it is in this
propelled through a small tube by a puff of the breath. The target is
precisely similar to the target used in the sister game.
Darts shot by the breath through tubes are favourite weapons of offence
among certain Indian tribes; they, however, first dip the tip of the
dart in some poisonous substance, and then send it at the enemy. It is
a deadly weapon, and the tribes using it are very skilful both in their
aim and in the force with which the weapon is directed.
PUSH PIN.
The game of Push Pin is certainly a game that does not require a vast
amount of ingenuity or intelligence to indulge in with success. It
is very contemptuously described in Strutt's "Sports and Pastimes"
in the following language:--"Push Pin is a very silly sport, being
nothing more than simply pushing one pin across another." But as this
description is somewhat vague, it is well to enlarge a little on the
simple, but yet to many amusing and interesting, game of Push Pin.
The game is usually played by two players only, and each player puts
down on the table one, two, three, or more pins, as may be decided
upon. At starting the pins are to be placed in couples, head to head,
one pin of each couple being placed by each player. Each player then
alternately pushes his pin with his finger-nail, endeavouring to
push it across his opponent's pin, and should he succeed both pins
become his, but if he fail his opponent plays. The push is not to be a
continued push, but a sort of a shove with the finger-nail, by bending
it on the table and letting it fly up to hit the pin in the required
direction.
PUZZLE-WIT.
_See_ "Magic Fan."
QUINTAIN.
The Quintain is another balancing toy, very ingenious in construction,
which, although it may be made at home, will be found somewhat
difficult of construction. One of the leading toy-makers thus describes
its manufacture:--"Carve the bust of a man with a ferocious face; on
the face gum a Turkish beard and moustaches; let one arm be extended,
half bent, holding a wooden scimitar, and the other bear a shield,
adorned with an opening, crescent-shaped, in which hangs a little bell.
Load the base of the figure with lead, and poise it on a pin, on which
it shall so freely revolve as to move at a touch, even so slight as
that of a feather. Now, whoever, trying to make the bell ring with his
finger, does not thrust at it very quickly, the figure, turning round,
will deal him a smart blow on the forefinger knuckle with the sabre."
The principle on which the Revolving Ring or the Revolving Image works
is precisely similar to that of the Quintain.
[Illustration: Quintain.]
QUIZ.
_See_ "Bandilor."
RACE GAME.
The Race Game is an interesting round parlour game, which may be
indulged in by any number of players up to twelve. It has seen many
imitations and modifications of it brought into use, and the games of
the University Boat Race and the National Volunteers may be instanced
as two specimens of more than ordinary interest; the first of these,
however, can only be played by two persons at a time.
The Race Game proper is played on a board, and is subject to rules
supplied with the board and the other materials for the game. The
board is marked into divisions, and at certain distances obstacles,
such as fences, hurdles, and ditches are placed, for the horses
participating in the race to clear. The players having determined the
order of playing, each one selects his horse, and places it at the
starting-point. Dice and dice-box, or a numbered teetotum, are used, to
denote the number of divisions the player's horse is entitled to pass
over, but should that number land the horse in any one of the brooks
or ditches, or upon the fences or hurdles, the throw of the dice, or,
as the case may be, the spin of the teetotum, does not count, and the
horse waits for another chance of a move when his player's turn next
comes round. Each player alternately takes his chance of moving. The
rules by which the game is governed vary considerably, and may be
modified in any way agreeable to all the players. The following are
given merely as specimen rules, as they are the substance of those most
frequently supplied with the game:--
[Illustration: Race Game.]
1.--When the stakes are agreed upon and the pool made, each member
must select his horse, and then enter him at the starting-point.
2.--Each member throws, or spins, for choice of move; the highest
number claims the first move, and the others according to the number
thrown.
3.--The horse that reaches the winning-post first gains the pool, the
second horse saving his stakes.
4.--Steeple or hurdle races can be played by placing fences and
hurdles along the course, and any player throwing a number that would
place his horse so that he does not clear the fence forfeits his
throw, and waits his next turn.
Although the game is made more interesting when played with
the materials supplied at the toy-shops, these are by no means
indispensable. Any ordinary board, or school slate, may be marked
into the necessary course and divisions over which the horses are to
travel; a few horses may be readily cut out of some stiff cardboard,
and a common teetotum will furnish all the materials absolutely needed
for the game. It will be found that the game, so arranged for, will
well repay any little trouble taken in manufacturing and obtaining the
necessary horses and race-course.
RACQUETS (DRAWING-ROOM).
The game of Drawing-room Racquets is an adaptation of the old-fashioned
play of Cup and Ball, so far as is possible, to the game of Racquets
played within doors, and in a more or less limited space. The game is
usually played by three persons, but the number is immaterial, and may
be increased according to the size of the room in which it is played.
The game consists in throwing the ball or balls from one cup held by
one player to some other cup held by some other player. It is best that
the balls should be passed round to the different players in order.
REVOLVING RING.
A ring or a small figure may be so constructed and arranged as to be
easily balanced on the top of one of the fingers. Take a piece of wood
and cut it into the form of a ring, or get a small wooden ring that
is perfectly round; fasten to it two oar-shaped pieces of wood about
double the length of the diameter of the ring; balance the ring when so
furnished on the point of a pin, and then, if the balancing has been
properly arranged, upon the head of the pin being placed upon the tip
of the forefinger the ring may be made to revolve quickly, and at the
same time retain its balance, by blowing, at first gently, and then
with more force, upon the oar-shaped appendages attached to the ring.
A small figure may be worked in the same manner by cutting a piece of
wood to a point, and carving the opposite end into the form of the
head and shoulders of a man; the pair of oars should be attached in
the place of arms, and then, if care to make the point of the wood
exactly in its centre has been taken, the figure will stand upright on
the tip of the finger, and by blowing he may be made to revolve in a
most amusing manner. The Revolving Figure is a more amusing toy than
the Revolving Ring; but in that it requires so much more nicety and
delicacy of handling to get the proper balance, it is not so easily
made.
There is a capital game known by the name of "Revolving Ring," adapted
for either out-door or in-door games. It is played with variously
coloured balls, which are thrown at rings similarly coloured. The rings
are fitted to a board, and in such a way that with the slightest touch
on the rims they revolve. The object of the game is to throw the six
balls through the revolving rings, the players taking their stand from
the board at some specified distance. Each successful throw counts
three; and when a ball is thrown through the ring of the same colour
the player scores six.
RINGOLETTE.
_See_ "Parlour Quoits."
RING THE BULL.
This is a game very similar to but somewhat more simple than that of
Parlour Quoits. It also is a game of skill. It is played upon a wooden
block, in which are inserted a number of long iron pins, on which the
player has to throw rings provided for that purpose. The players score
according to the number of rings that are so thrown as to encircle a
pin.
ROYAL STAR.
The materials for this game are a large star with eight long rays, each
one of which is painted some different colour; and eight wooden balls
painted to correspond with the colours of the rays of the star. The
rays of the star are not fixtures, but their bases are merely slipped
into grooves in the body of the star, so that they can be easily
knocked out with the balls.
[Illustration: Royal Star.]
To play the game, each player alternately takes all the eight balls,
and standing away from the star at a certain specified distance throws
the balls at the star, endeavouring by that means to knock out the
rays. If a player should succeed in striking out a ray of the same
colour as the ball, two points are scored, but if the ball and the
ray knocked out are not of the same colour, one point only is scored.
If in any throw the star is altogether missed, three points are to
be deducted. When the first player has thrown the eight balls, such
rays as may have been knocked out are replaced, and the next player
takes the balls and commences the game, and so on until all have had a
chance. It is well that a curtain or screen should be arranged behind
the star to stop the balls.
SCHIMMEL.
The game of Schimmel, or, as it is generally known, of Bell and
Hammer, is a most amusing round game of German origin. The materials
for playing the game are comparatively inexpensive, and as some of
them can be prepared by any ordinarily clever lad--and all lads are
clever--there is no reason why this game should not, were it but better
known, attain much more popularity than it seems to be favoured with.
The materials required are--
1.--Five small cards, on each of which are drawn or painted one of
the following figures: On one card a white horse, on another an inn,
on the third a bell, on the fourth a hammer, on the fifth a bell and
a hammer.
2.--Eight wood, bone, or ivory cubes of the size of dice, marked
on one side only, six of which are numbered respectively with the
numerals 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, and 6; the other two cubes being marked, the
one with a bell, and the other with a hammer.
3.--A dice box with which to throw the cubes.
4.--A hammer for knocking down the cards to their respective
purchasers, which are disposed of by auction, as set forth hereafter.
5.--A bag of counters.
The game may be played by an unlimited number of players, the more the
better, it being especially advisable that at least seven should join
in the game. The mode of procedure is as follows:--One of the players
is to be selected as cashier, and to him has to be entrusted the bag
of counters. A considerable number of these should be equally divided
among all the players, and if it is desired they may be taken to
represent value. Nuts make good substitutes for counters, as to those
players not yet troubled with indigestion they possess in themselves a
certain value, especially if it be understood that all winnings may be
retained (or eaten).
[Illustration: The Materials for Schimmel.]
A pool has to be formed, into which each player pays twelve counters.
It is then the duty of the cashier to sell by auction to the highest
bidders the five cards, the produce of which also is paid into the
pool. Each player is at liberty to purchase as many of the cards as he
may be inclined, and, moreover, he is not bound to pay for all, but is
at liberty to take credit for a certain portion of his purchases if
they exceed the number of counters originally dealt out to him; only
payment of the debt so incurred must be considered as a first charge
on subsequent winnings. The cards will, by experience at the game, be
found to be of various values; but the number of counters to be paid
for each is determined by the speculative natures of the players, and
it, indeed, often happens that those players who invest in no cards
at all are at the end of the game the richest in the matter of wealth
as reckoned by counters. The respective values of the cards are as
follows:--The white horse ranks first, and immediately after him comes
the inn, the cards representing respectively the bell and the hammer
are of about equal value, and come next, while that representing both
the bell and the hammer is lowest in the scale, and is worth just half
that at which either of the two cards on which are painted the single
figures is valued.
The cubes are then to be thrown by the players alternately, their order
having been previously arranged, it being always allowed, however, that
the possessors of cards take precedence over the other players, and
over each other, according to the relative values of their cards. It
should be stated rather that each player alternately is entitled to a
throw of the cubes or dice, for any player is at liberty to sell his
throw to any other player inclined to speculate therein. When the cubes
are thrown and show uppermost all blanks, all the players have to pay
one counter each to the holder of the white horse, and he again pays
one to the holder of the inn. If the cubes turn up with the bell or
the hammer, or with the bell and the hammer, the holder or holders of
these cards pay one counter to the white horse. When the bell, hammer,
or bell and hammer are thrown accompanied with numbers, the amount of
the numbers thrown has to be paid in counters to the holder or holders
of the cards out of the pool; if numbers are thrown unaccompanied with
either bell or hammer, or bell and hammer, the thrower of the cubes
receives from pool the number of counters indicated by the cubes.
It is when the pool is becoming exhausted that advantages accrue to
the holder of the inn, and this indeed is usually found to be a very
speculative holding. If any player in his throw shows numbers combined
greater than the number of counters remaining in the pool, he receives
nothing from pool, but pays to the holder of the inn the difference
between the number of counters remaining and the number indicated by
the cubes; for example, if five counters are remaining in pool, and
seven are shown uppermost on the thrown cubes, the player who threw the
cubes pays two counters to the holder of the inn, and leaves the five
counters in the pool. So on the play proceeds, until some figure is
thrown which, clearing the pool, concludes the game.
After the holder of the inn card begins to receive payment, should
all blanks be thrown, the players throwing the cubes pay nothing;
but instead, the holder of the white horse pays one counter to the
holder of the inn; should the bell or hammer, or bell and hammer be
thrown with the blanks, the holder or holders of the card or cards
indicated each pays one to the holder of the inn. If numbers are thrown
accompanying the bell, &c., the holder of that card pays to the inn the
number thrown in excess of the number of counters remaining in the pool.
SHOVEL BOARD.
The game of Shovel Board was once a very important national pastime,
and was much played among fashionable people. Master Slender, in "The
Merry Wives of Windsor," makes a reference to the game, from which it
would appear that Shovel Board was in Shakspere's time both popular and
fashionable.
The game was formerly played upon a long, low table that usually
stood in the large hall of a gentleman's house, but was soon adapted
to smaller tables, and was indeed frequently played on the floor,
the necessary limits being chalked out on the bricks. The following
description of the game will be found applicable, whether it be played
on the floor or on the orthodox table or board, it being premised that
the space marked out on the floor should be about twenty-five or thirty
feet in length and three feet in breadth, a space corresponding with
the size of an ancient Shovel Board.
The tables on which the game is now played vary somewhat in length,
but are usually three feet to three and a half feet wide. At one end
of the table a line is drawn parallel with the edge, and three or
four inches from it; at four feet distance another line is made over
which it is necessary for the weight to pass when shoved or thrown. The
players stand at the end of the table, opposite to the two lines above
mentioned, each having four flat metal weights, which they alternately
shove from them one at a time. The object of the play is to give
sufficient impetus to the weight to carry it beyond the mark nearest to
the opposite edge of the table, but so as to keep it on the table. If
the weight is shoved so that it hangs over the edge without falling,
three are counted towards game; if between the line and edge, without
hanging over, two are scored; if on the line one only is credited to
the player. The game is usually eleven when two play, but when more
than two are jointly concerned that number should be increased.
[Illustration: Shovel Board.]
Those weights that glance off the side of the table, that do not pass
the first line, or that fall off the table at the opposite edge, it
will be seen do not score. It is sometimes allowed that all weights
passing the first, or four-foot line, score one, instead of making it
incumbent that the second line should be reached.
The following description of the game, which differs somewhat from
the above, appears in the "English Cyclopædia":--"The origin of the
game Shuffle, or Shovel Board, is doubtful; it has been practised
for many generations ... and has lately been largely introduced
into America.... The board, or alley, is thirty feet long by twenty
inches wide, perfectly level, like a billiard table, and constructed
of some wood which will not warp. Before commencing to play, it is
sprinkled with fine sand, and five inches from each end a line is drawn
across the board, parallel with the ends. Eight weights or pieces
are required, divided into two sets of four each, and marked with
distinctive features. The game is played by four people, two against
two, one on either side standing at each end of the board. Twenty-one
points have to be scored to win a game; each piece which lies over or
inside the line, at the end of a round being 'in,' and scoring two
points in favour of the side to which it belongs, whilst a piece partly
projecting over the end of the board scores three points. Should no
piece be 'in' at the end of a round, that nearest the line counts as
one point, and a piece lying exactly on the line is counted 'in.' The
players '_shuffle_' alternately from each end of the board, the great
object of each competitor being to 'shuffle' his own piece in, or drive
his opponent's off the board."
SKITTLE CANNONADE.
The game of Skittle Cannonade, or Indian Skittle Pool, is a capital
game for boys. It is in its higher development played on an ordinary
billiard-table, but a bagatelle board will answer all the purpose, or
it may even be played on a common dining-table, provided that round its
edges are placed such cushions as are supplied with a Table Croquet set.
[Illustration:
*3
*4 *5 *2
*1
Plan of Skittle Cannonade.]
Two white balls, one red, and one blue ball are used in the game, and
five small skittles are placed in the centre of the board or table.
The skittles are of different values, and are numbered as follows (as
shown in the accompanying plan). The first opposite to the baulk is
one, that to the right two, that opposite to the first, three, the
one opposite to the second, four, and the centre skittle, five. The
points are made by knocking down the skittles, as shown hereafter,
each skittle knocked down counting points according to its number. In
commencing to play, the red ball is placed as in the ordinary cannon
game of billiards, the blue one beneath it, and the two white balls are
retained for the two players who play first. The white balls should be
played with alternately by the players, and no score is made except
from a cannon, that is, the ball struck with the cue must hit some
other ball before the skittle is knocked down; but it does not then
matter by which ball the skittle or skittles are knocked down. The
first player is bound to strike the red ball, and the second player the
blue ball, but afterwards either ball may be struck at. A ball being
knocked off the table, or into a pocket when a billiard-table is used,
destroys all the points made by the stroke, and if the ball knocked off
is either the red or blue ball it must be again placed as in starting
the game. The skittles are replaced after every stroke, if necessary.
Thirty-one points, neither more nor less, win the game; any one scoring
beyond that number is dead and out of the game; or the survivor from
amongst all the players wins the game if no one player scores the
exact thirty-one required. Any player knocking down the four outside
skittles, leaving only the centre one standing, wins the game, having
made what is technically called "the royal." After each win a new game
is started.
The player who first reaches either twenty-nine or thirty points has
the right to stop scoring on his declaring to do so, and any point
which he may subsequently make counts to the advantage or disadvantage,
as the case may be, of the previous player. This right to stop scoring
can only be exercised by one player in each game, and if he who first
reaches the required number of points refuses to exercise that right,
it passes to the next who attains the required number, and so on.
There is also another version of the game of Skittle Cannonade played
on a board specially prepared, and the result of which depends entirely
upon chance. A teetotum, as in the game of Cannonade, is used instead
of balls and a cue, or sometimes a top is made to do duty for the
teetotum. Nine specially-made skittles are used, each of which is
placed on a spot inscribed with a number. When the skittles are placed,
the top or teetotum is smartly spun at one corner of the board by each
player alternately, and the scores are made according to the numbers
which are laid bare by the skittles being knocked off them. The great
point in the game is to give the top or teetotum a smart jerk when
spinning it, so as to make it retain its power of movement as long as
possible. This description of the game is far inferior to the version
described above, but the whole of the materials form a pretty toy, and
much amusement for the youngsters is to be obtained from the game.
SLATE GAMES.
There are a few simple slate games which have been in the past, and no
doubt will be in the future, the means of affording innocent amusement
to many a youngster. They are none of them very elaborate, are usually
intended for only two players, and are best grouped together under the
one general heading of Slate Games. The first to be described is the
game known as
_Birds, Beasts, and Fishes._--Two boys take their slates, and each
one writes down the first and last letters of the name of some bird,
beast, or fish, first stating from which category the name is selected,
and puts a cross for each of the intermediate letters. For example, A
elects to write down the name of a beast, and marks on his slate as
follows--Hxxxe; B will perhaps select a fish, and mark on his slate
Gxxxxxn; they then exchange slates, and each tries to guess the name of
the beast or fish indicated, and fills up the blanks accordingly. It is
evident that those indicated above are respectively Horse and Gudgeon.
_French and English._--A slate should be divided into three divisions,
the top and bottom divisions each having a small compartment marked off
therein, as shown in the annexed diagram. One of the two end divisions
should be allotted to the English and the other to the French, and
marks put therein to represent the soldiers of the respective nations.
Each player having provided himself with a well-sharpened pencil, the
game is played as follows:--The players decide the order of play, and
he first selected, being supposed to be English, places the point
of his pencil at the spot marked in the smaller compartment of the
English division of the slate, draws it quickly across the slate in the
direction of the opposing army. The pencil will, of course, leave a
line marking its track, and all the men of the opposite side, through
which the track passes, count as dead. Each player plays alternately,
and he wins who first kills all the men on the opposite side. The track
of the pencil must be rapidly made, and must be either straight or
curved; any track in which there is an angle does not count. Sometimes
the players turn their heads or close their eyes when making the track.
[Illustration:
+====================+
|| * * * * | ||
|| * * * |/\||
|| * * * |\/||
||------------------||
|| English ||
|| ||
|| ||
|| ||
|| French ||
||------------------||
|| * * * *|/\||
|| * * * |\/||
|| * * * *| ||
+====================+
French and English.]
_Noughts and Crosses, or Tit-Tat-To._--This game, when played out of
school-hours, should be wound up with the following rhyme by him who
wins the game:--
Tit-Tat-To, my last go;
Three jolly butchers, all of a row.
"When played out of school?" some readers will say. Yes; this
qualification is necessary, for it is to be feared and deprecated
that this game, as well as that of "Birds, Beasts, and Fishes," is
frequently played in school-hours, to while away the weary time that
ought to be devoted to the solution of arithmetical or algebraical
problems. These slate games are undoubtedly little boys' games, but
many are the big boys who indulge in them surreptitiously, if not
openly.
[Illustration:
| |
X | O | X
----+---+----
O | O | X
----+---+----
X | X | O
| |
Noughts and Crosses.]
The game of Tit-Tat-To is played on a figure, similar to the annexed,
made on an ordinary slate. The players alternately mark in the
figure--the one a cross, and the other a nought; he who first obtains a
row either horizontally, perpendicularly, or diagonally wins the game,
and calls "the three jolly butchers, all of a row." The object of each
of the players is equally to obtain such a row, and to prevent his
opponent from obtaining one.
SPILLIKINS OR SPELICANS.
The game of Spelicans is similar to that of "Jerk-Straws." The
spelicans are a number of thin pieces of ivory or bone, cut into
odd and various shapes--some like saws, some like spears, some like
hooks, &c. Each spelican is inscribed with a number, the lowest being
5 and the highest 40. The spelicans are taken up in the hand of any
one of the players, except by him who plays first, and dropped upon
the table in a heap; the other player or players, as the case may be,
then alternately endeavour to remove a spelican from the heap either
with the fingers, or by the aid of two small hooks provided for the
purpose, without in the slightest degree disturbing any other spelican.
At the end of the game each player adds up the numbers marked on the
spelicans he has captured, and he who can show the highest number wins.
Sometimes, instead of each player alternately trying to remove one
spelican, it is allowed for one player to continue removing spelicans
one by one until more than one spelican is disturbed in the same try,
when the play passes as before.
SQUAILS.
In some places the game of Squails bears the name of Trails. It is an
amusing round game, which can be played on any ordinary table by two
or more players of an even number--not, however, exceeding eight. Each
player is furnished with an equal number of coloured wooden pieces or
discs, which are called squails, and these the player has to place at
the edge of the table, half over the edge, and strike them with the
open palm of the hand towards a small medal placed in the centre.
[Illustration: Squails.]
The players should be divided into sides, and one from each side should
alternately strike a squail towards the medal. An imaginary circle
should be drawn round the central medal, into which, if it is knocked
out during the play, it must be replaced. The object of the game is to
secure for one's own side the largest number of squails near to the
central medal, and to obtain that it is legitimate not only to shove
one's own squail towards the centre, but also to knock an opponent's
squail away or a partner's squail near to the medal.
The game of Squails, for a year or two after its introduction, seemed
in a fair way to rank among the most popular round table games, but
it soon died out and is now but little played. It deserves, however,
much more notice than it usually receives, and we would recommend it
as a great improvement on most of the elaborate toy games that are
patronised so extensively. A set of squails costs but a trifling sum.
SQUEAKER.
The Squeaker is an instrument with which it is generally supposed that
the peculiar squeak of Punch, in the Punch and Judy show, is produced.
To make it, get two little pieces of tin, each about an inch long, and
half an inch broad, and bend them slightly inwards. Now wind a piece
of tape round the pieces of tin when placed together, and fasten the
whole together with thread. Blow through the instrument, and by the
vibration of the central piece of tape a peculiar squeaking sound will
be produced.
Another very simple squeaker is made by placing the two thumbs together
alongside of each other, and laying as tightly as possible in the
hollow between the thumbs a blade of common grass. If the piece of
grass is then blown upon, the same horrible squeaking noise will be
produced.
STEADY TAR.
The Steady Tar is another toy of the balancing order, several of which
have already been described. To make this toy, stick a needle into a
cork, and place the cork, needle upwards, tightly into a bottle. Carve
the figure of a sailor--any other figure will answer equally well--out
of light wood, cork, or pith, and mount him on a hard wood ball. (_See_
figure in the illustration.) Through the centre of this ball run a
wire, which must be bent, as in the woodcut, into a half circle, and
to either end of which a small leaden weight or bullet of equal weight
must be attached. If the hard wood ball is then placed on the needle
sticking out of the cork in the bottle, the figure may be spun round,
and tipped in any direction; if properly made it will always recover
its erect and steady position.
[Illustration: Steady Tar.]
SUMMER ICE.[1]
This is a capital new in-door game, founded on the celebrated Scottish
game of Curling. The materials for the game are made and supplied by
some of the toy manufacturers; but the game, which, although founded
on Curling, has also some resemblance to Shovel Board, may be played
on any ordinary table with a plain surface. The materials as supplied
consist of a long mahogany folding board, at one end of which is a
circle, and sixteen flat weights. It is the object of the players to
hurl the weights along the board to reach the circle at the other end.
After the players have delivered their weights, that side which has the
greater number of stones lying nearest to the tee or mark counts one
for each weight so lying. Thus, if side A has two weights nearer than
any belonging to side B, the former would count two to their score.
[Illustration: Summer Ice.]
SYBIL.
_See_ "Prophet."
TABLE CROQUET.
_See_ "Parlour Croquet."
TARGETTA.
The game of Targetta is a drawing-room game, which is played on a
target somewhat resembling a pedestal fire-screen, and similar to
the illustration annexed. In the oval central part of the target are
fixed a number of pins which are retained in their places by means of
springs that are dislodged immediately upon the pins being struck. The
pins are thrown at by a ball attached by a long string or cord to the
top of the target, and scores are made according to the number of the
pins dislodged.
[Illustration: Targetta.]
TEETOTUM.
The Teetotum is a kind of top or whirligig that is spun round by
twisting the upper part between the thumb and finger. It is usually of
a hexagon or octagon shape, but sometimes it is four-sided only, and
may be easily made by cutting a piece of wood of an inch or thereabouts
in diameter, and a third of an inch in thickness, into the required
shape. A stick run through the middle of the disc and fixed makes it
complete, and the result is a useful rough and homely teetotum.
[Illustration: Teetotum.]
Originally teetotums had four sides only, which were respectively
marked with the letters T, H, N, and P, signifying Take all, Take half,
Nothing, and Put in again to pool. The toys, as now improved, are made
with more sides, and are variously numbered. In many of the toy games
a teetotum is used in place of dice, but simple teetotum games are
played with nuts or some such things for stakes. There are otherwise no
special games for the teetotum; it is mostly used in various race and
other games of chance.
TIT-TAT-TO.
_See_ "Slate Games."
TOURNAMENT.
This is another new round game, a development of and improvement upon
some old friends. It is played on a circular mahogany board. A number
of tops, teetotums, or champions of different colours are spun in the
centre of the board by different players, and these tops are apt to
strike and knock each other about. The player whose top dies nearest
the centre of the board wins the game. The game may be played on an
ordinary tray, or even on a table if desired.
TRAILS.
_See_ "Squails."
TROUBLE WIT.
_See_ "Magic Fan."
WONDERFUL TRUMPET.
The wonderful trumpet is a very simple toy, and to those who like
practical joking, affords amusement, except to the one against whom the
joke is made. Get a tube made of tin, wood, or cardboard, a piece of
cork, and the hollow part of a quill. Cut a slice about half an inch
in thickness off the cork, and place it about half-way down the tube,
as at _a b_ in Fig. 1 in the illustration. Next cut a second slice
from the cork, making notches round its edge, and a hole in the centre
through which to pass the quill. When this is done fix it at the points
_c d_, contriving so that the quill will extend about two-thirds of the
way down the upper compartment of the tube. Instead of closing up the
compartment e with a piece of cork at the point _c d_, wood, tin, or
cardboard may be used, it only being necessary that a number of small
notches or holes should be cut in the material used. The trumpet is
then complete, and should be represented by Fig. 2.
[Illustration: Fig. 1.--Section of Wonderful Trumpet.]
The following is the use to which it is put:--Place flour, or some
harmless dust or powder, in the compartment of the tube marked
_e_, block up as instructed the end at _c d_, hand the trumpet to
him against whom the joke is to be directed, and instruct him that
by blowing through the end of the quill protruding an effect both
marvellous and unexpected will be produced. "Blow hard," say; "the
harder the better." If he carries out his instructions the flour or
powder will come through the holes or notches at the point _c d_,
covering the face of the poor unfortunate victim. Viciousness in the
use of this instrument should be sternly condemned--a little flour
in a boy's face will not harm him, but great care should be taken to
ascertain the effects of the material placed in the tube, as certain
powders lodging in a person's eyes might do serious injury. Practical
joking is not to be much encouraged, but, practised occasionally, and
with fun only for its object, is not to be entirely condemned.
[Illustration: Fig. 2.--Wonderful Trumpet.]
* * * * *
In winding up the section on Toy Games and Toy-making, it is
appropriate to quote the remarks of some of the jurors of the Great
International Exhibition, held in London in 1862, who said in effect,
when speaking of toys generally, in setting forth their views on the
subject, "that toys should be vivid, innocent, and delightful; fitted
to teach children to open their eyes, to compare and to observe, and
to make them aware how rich and varied are the phenomena of the fair
world into which they have been placed, and how much happiness is to be
obtained in it."
The manufacture of children's toys forms a very considerable item
in the leading industries of the world. The United Kingdom of Great
Britain and Ireland alone imports foreign toys to the amount of
upwards of £200,000 annually, and this is entirely in addition to the
considerable support given to our extensive home manufacture. Among
the miscellaneous toys referred to at the commencement of this section
were "Noah's Arks," and much wonder has frequently been expressed at
the small sum for which toys of this nature are to be purchased. They
are usually the product of the skill of the Germans and the Tyrolese.
In the Valley of Grödnerthal, in the Tyrol, where almost every cottage
is a carver's workshop, Noah's Ark animals are made in very large
quantities from a species of pine. The wood is cut into slabs, of from
fifteen inches in diameter by three inches thick, the grain of the wood
being in the direction of the thickness. A circular piece, six inches
in diameter, is cut out of the centre, leaving a ring four or five
inches broad. This ring is turned in a lathe, with chisels and gouges,
over every part of the surface, on both sides, and on the inner and
outer edges. The curvatures, ridges, &c., are very remarkable, but are
perfectly understood by the workmen, and by them only. The outer ridge
is then cut up radially into slices, each of which slices presents the
outline of some animal on both surfaces, the shaping of the wood in the
lathe having been such as to bring about this result. Each separate
piece is ultimately brought to completion by hand-carving. One of
the museums in Kew Gardens, near London, contains specimens of this
singularly ingenious manufacture, in various stages of progress.
FOOTNOTE:
[1] This game has been registered by Mr. Cremer, of 210, Regent Street,
as has also the following one called "Targetta."
MECHANICAL PUZZLES.
It would be impossible to give a complete list of the subjects that
might be fairly classed under Mechanical Puzzles. What is a puzzle
to one generation is none to the next, and so on; new puzzles are
constantly being invented and found out. There are a few old ones
around which a considerable amount of interest must centre because of
their intrinsic merit, and which should find a place in every book
prepared for the amusement and recreation of youth; there are also new
ones not yet much known, which should be mentioned more because of
their newness, perhaps, than their merit.
BALANCING PUZZLES.
A few Balancing Puzzles have been included in the section allotted
to Toy Games and Toy-making; for inasmuch as a certain amount of
making was necessary, it seemed proper to place them there, and it is
sufficient now to refer the reader to that section for some varieties
in Balancing Puzzles that are not to be found here.
[Illustration: Fig. 1.--The Balanced Pail.]
_The Balanced Pail_ (Fig. 1.)--To balance a pail suspended by its
handle on a stick, less than half of which rests on its support, would
seem to be an impossible feat. It is to be done, however, if the
following instructions be carefully followed:--Take a stick (C D), over
which the handle of the bucket or pail is to be placed, and place the
stick about two-fifths of its length on a table (A B). The handle of
the pail should be so placed over the stick as to be in an inclined
position shown by the letters H I, and so that the edge of the pail
may touch the edge of the leg or side of the table. To make the pail
retain its position, another stick (E F G) will be required, the one
end of which should reach to the bottom of the pail, the other end
being fitted into a notch previously cut at the point E, in the first
stick (C D). The stick (E F G) should rest on the edge of the pail at
the point F. The bucket will thus be kept safely balanced, and may,
provided the sticks are fairly strong, without risk be filled with
water.
_The Balanced Stick._--A stick may be balanced and made to stand
upright on the top of the finger by first taking the precaution to
insert into its upper end, at about half an inch from that end, two
knives, or two forks, or two other articles of equal weight. The stick
should be of such a length that the ends of the knives are a trifle
lower than the end of the stick when balanced.
_A similar puzzle is to make a coin turn on its edge on the point of a
needle, or to make a needle turn on its point on the head of a pin._
For either of these puzzles, get a bottle, cork it tightly, and in
the cork (which we will name B) place a needle or a pin; then take
another cork (which we will call X) and cut a slit in one of its ends,
so that the coin to be balanced will fit into the slit. If it is on
a needle that the coin has to be balanced, force the needle into the
cork B point outwards. Now stick two common steel forks, one on either
side, into cork X, so that the forks hang downwards; place the coin in
the slit of the last-mentioned cork and the edge of the coin on the
point of the needle. If the needle is to be balanced on a pin, place
the needle in the same manner; the weight of the forks will keep the
toy balanced, and enable it to be safely spun round without danger of
falling.
[Illustration: Fig. 2.--The Bridge of Knives.]
_The Bridge of Knives_ (Fig. 2).--Three knives may be supported by
their handles on the rims of three cups or glasses in the following
manner:--Place the glasses in a triangle, each side of which shall be
about equal in length to one of the knives to be balanced. The blade of
the first knife should rest on the blade of the second by passing over
it near to the point where the handle and blade are joined, the blade
of the second passing in the same manner over the blade of the third,
which is to be made to rest on the blade of the first. The handles
being then properly placed on each one of the glasses forming the
triangle, the bridge will be made, and it will be strong enough to bear
a considerable weight.
THE SQUARE AND CIRCLE PUZZLE.
Cut a square piece of cardboard, marked as shown in Fig. 3, into four
pieces of equal size and similar shape, so that each piece shall
contain three of the marks, and so that none of the marks are cut. Fig.
4 shows that the puzzle is solved by cutting the lines A from a quarter
down on the left-hand side to half-way across, then down through the
middle to three-quarters of the distance from the top, and then along
to the opposite side of the card. The line B takes a corresponding
course, being commenced on the top line at a quarter of the whole
distance from the right-hand side.
[Illustration:
+-----------------------+
| O O O |
| |
| |
| O O |
| O O |
| O O |
| |
| |
| O O O |
+-----------------------+
Fig. 3.--Square and Circle--The Problem.]
[Illustration:
+-----------------+-----+
| O O B| O |
| | |
+A----------+A | |
| O|O | |
| O B +----+-----+B O |
| | O|O |
| | A+-----------+A
| | |
| O |B O O |
+------+----------------+
Fig. 4.--Square and Circle--The Solution.]
THE CARPENTER'S PUZZLE.
This is very similar to the above. A carpenter had to mend a hole in
a floor which was two feet wide and twelve feet long. The board given
him to mend it with was three feet wide and eight feet long. He was
instructed to entirely cover the hole, to allow no part of the board to
overlap, and he was allowed to cut the board into two pieces only. He
accomplished the feat by cutting the board as shown by the dotted lines
in the annexed Fig. 5, and joining them over the hole in the floor in
the manner shown in Fig. 6.
[Illustration:
+------------------------+
| ............|
|............| |
| |
+------------------------+
Fig. 5.--Carpenter's Puzzle--The Problem.]
[Illustration:
+----------------------+----------+
| _____________| |
| | |
+--------+------------------------+
Fig. 6.--Carpenter's Puzzle--The Solution.]
THE DIVIDED FARM.
This is a still more complicated puzzle of the same description. It is
the last of the sort we shall give, but many more of a like character
may be constructed. A Frenchman died leaving five sons, among whom he
had expressed a wish to divide his farm, on which ten trees grew, so
that they all might live together in the house (represented by the dark
square in the diagrams), and so that each might have an equal share of
land, of a similar shape, each share having two trees growing upon it.
Fig. 7 shows the land before it was divided; the lines in Fig. 8 show
how the fences were put up when the old man's wish had been carried out.
[Illustration:
+---------------+
| * * |
| |
| * * * |
| +---+ |
| * | X | * * |
| +---+ |
| * * |
+---------------+
Fig. 7.--The Undivided Farm.]
[Illustration:
+-------+-------+
| * | * |
| +---+---+ |
| * | * | * |
+---+---+ +---+
| * | X | * | * |
| +---+---+ |
| * | * |
+-------+-------+
Fig. 8.--The Divided Farm.]
THE VERTICAL LINE PUZZLE.
This puzzle is very old; but, although simple, is very good. It may be
treated either as a mechanical or as an arithmetical puzzle. Place six
narrow strips of cardboard of equal length in a row, and add five other
pieces in such a way that the whole form nine only. The result is shown
in the second row of lines, the added pieces being represented by the
dotted lines (Fig. 9). This puzzle may be said to be only a play upon
words, but in most puzzles there is some catch.
[Illustration:
|* | | |* | |* * *
| * | | | * | |
| * | | | * | |* * *
| * | | | * | |
| *| | | *| |* * *
Fig. 9.--The Vertical Line Puzzle.]
THE STRING AND BALLS PUZZLE.
Get a thin piece of wood, bone, or ivory, of the shape shown in the
annexed figure (Fig. 10); bore in it three holes--one at each end, and
one in the middle. Pass a piece of string or twine through the middle
hole, leaving a loop, as shown; on each side of the string thread a
ball or ring, and fasten the two ends of the string with knots at the
holes at the end of the piece of wood. The puzzle is, without removing
the string from the holes or without untying the knots, to get both
balls or rings to the same side of the central loop instead of on
opposite sides. The following is the solution of the puzzle:--Draw the
central loop of the string well down, and slip through it either one or
other of the balls until it reaches the back of the central hole; then
pull the loop through the hole, and pass the ball through the _two_
loops that will thus be formed; draw the string back through the hole
as before, and the ball may easily be passed to that part of the string
on which the other ball has been strung. This plan of passing the loop
through the central hole is a key to all the puzzles of this nature.
Such puzzles appear under various names, but they may all be solved if
the key to this puzzle of the Balls and String is borne in mind.
[Illustration: Fig. 10.--String and Balls Puzzle.]
A somewhat similar, although more complicated puzzle, is that known as
THE PUZZLING RINGS.
This name, by the way, describes the puzzle, but it has been so many
times christened, that no list of names could claim to be a complete
list. The puzzle is smart and neat, but the parts have to be so nicely
fitted, that it would not be easy for an amateur to make it. It may
be purchased at a small cost at any toy-shop. The following is its
description:--In a flat board of wood, bone, or metal are a certain
number of holes--more or less, according to the size of the puzzle.
In each hole a wire is loosely fixed, beaten out into a head at one
end, to prevent the wire slipping through the hole; and the other end
is fastened to a ring, which is also loose. Each wire has been passed
through the ring of the next wire previously to its own ring being
fastened on; and through the whole of the rings runs a wire hoop or
bow, which also contains, within its oblong space, all the wires to
which the rings are fastened, the whole presenting so complicated an
appearance as to make the releasing the rings from the bow seem to be
an impossibility. The puzzle, nevertheless, is to take off the rings.
[Illustration: Fig. 11.--The Seven-ring Puzzle.]
The following is the plan to be followed:--The instructions given are
for removing the rings from a _seven-ring puzzle_ (Fig. 11), that being
the simplest form in which the puzzle is made; but it should be noted
for general guidance that if an even number of rings are on the bow,
the first and second are to be brought down together; if odd, the first
one only. To proceed:--Take the hoop in the left hand, and hold the
puzzle so that the first ring to be taken off is at the end farthest
away from that hand. Draw down the first ring from the bow, and drop
it _down_ through the bow, so that it may be between the board and
the bow; proceed similarly with the third ring; replace the first, by
passing it _up_ through the bow; bring it (the first) to the end of
the bow, bearing in mind that the wires supporting the rings must be
perpendicular between the two sides thereof; bring down the rings 1 and
2 together; then bring down No. 5; take up 1 and 2 together; bring down
1; take up 3 and 1; bring down 1 and 2 together; bring down 4; take up
1 and 2; bring down 1 and 3; take up 1; bring down 1 and 2 together;
and bring down 7; which completes the seven-ring puzzle.
[Illustration: Fig. 12.--Balls and Rings Puzzle.--a, Plan; b, Side
View.]
To put the rings on again:--Put on 1 and 2; bring down 1; take up 3;
and then 1; bring down 1; and so on, always taking up the first or
outward rings.
The seven-ring puzzle is, as already stated, the simplest of these
puzzles, as the ten-ring puzzle is usually the most complicated. To
perform the ten-ring puzzle it has been computed requires no less than
681 moves. The instructions given above apply equally well to both, if
only the note as to an odd or even number of rings to be removed is
remembered.
The puzzle of the _Balls and Rings_ (Fig. 12) has points of similarity
with the above, and also with that of the _string and balls_ puzzle.
The _balls and rings_ puzzle is very ingenious, and should be asked for
at the toy-shop. It consists of a round frame of mahogany, about two
inches in width and a quarter of an inch thick. In this frame, and at
regular intervals, are holes, between which are placed, on the one side
of the frame, rings, and on the other side, balls. The rings and balls
are made fast with a cord, which passes through each ring and each
ball, and also through all the holes in the frame, the ends of the cord
being tied in a cross. The puzzle is to reverse the position of both
the rings and the balls from one side of the frame to the other.
As indicated in the _String and Balls_ puzzle, the key to this and
similar puzzles is to be found in a loop of string, which is usually
concealed in some part of the puzzle. The loop should be pulled out or
through the wood, and passed over the ball nearest to it; the solution
of the puzzle will then be apparent.
THE STAFF PUZZLE, THE VICTORIA PUZZLE, AND THE ARTILLERY PUZZLE.
These are all ingenious puzzles of this class, introduced by Mr.
Cremer, of Regent Street, who issues the keys for the solution of the
puzzles with the toys.
THE SIX ROWS PUZZLE.
Place twelve counters in six rows in such a manner that there shall be
four counters in each row. Fig. 13 shows how the puzzle is solved.
[Illustration: Fig. 13.--The Six Rows Puzzle.]
THE SIX SQUARE PUZZLE.
Place twelve counters on a piece of slate or cardboard, so that
they would be at the angles of six squares, as shown in M, in the
accompanying diagram (Fig. 14). The puzzle then is to take away three
counters, so that the remaining nine counters shall describe three
squares only. The solution is shown in N, Fig. 14. The twelve counters
form the six squares A, B, C, D, E, F, whereas upon the counters 1, 2,
and 12 being removed the squares C, D, and E only are left.
[Illustration:
M
1 2 3 4 3 4
*---*---*---* N *---*
| A | B | C | 6 | C |
5 *---*---*---*8 5 *---*---*---*8
| D | E | F | | D | E |
*---*---*---* *---*---*
9 10 11 12 9 10 11
Fig. 14.--The Six Square Problem--The Problem (m) and the Solution (n).]
[Transcriber's Note: For clarity, counters 6 and 7 are not labeled in
board "M," and counter 7 is not labeled in board "N."]
THE MAGIC OCTAGON.
Out of a piece of stiff cardboard, cut four of each of the three
designs shown in Fig. 15, A, and so join them together that they form
an octagon figure. The pieces numbered 1 are to be fitted together
in the centre, the pieces 2 and 3 being placed alternately round the
pieces numbered 1, after those pieces have been fitted together (Fig.
15, B).
[Illustration: Fig. 15.--The Magic Octagon--a, The Pieces; b, The
Octagon.]
THE ACCOMMODATING SQUARE.
Cut out eight squares of cardboard; divide four of them into halves,
cutting them from corner to corner, so that there are in all twelve
pieces. The puzzle is to form a square with the twelve pieces. It is
to be done as shown in the accompanying plan. The four squares and the
eight triangular pieces are numbered respectively 1 to 4 and 5 to 12
(Fig. 16).
[Illustration: Fig. 16.--The Accommodating Square.]
THE MAGIC CROSS.
Take three pieces of cardboard of the shape of the figure numbered 1 in
Fig. 17, A, and one piece each of the shapes of 2 and 3. The pieces may
be of any size, but it is hardly necessary to say that relatively each
one must correspond with the sizes and shapes indicated in the diagram.
Fig. 17, B, shows the pieces when put together and forming the cross.
[Illustration: Fig. 17.--a, The Pieces. b, The Cross.]
TO TAKE A MAN'S WAISTCOAT OFF WITHOUT REMOVING HIS COAT.