the south-west, and gradually turns due south. It contains the
celebrated tombs of the kings of Egypt, and divides itself into two
principal branches, one of which runs two miles farther to the westward,
making five miles from the Nile to the extremity. The other, which
contains most of the tombs, is separated from Gournou only by a high
chain of rocks, which can be crossed from Thebes in less than an hour.
The same rocks surround the sacred ground, which can be visited only by
a single natural entrance, that is formed like a gateway, or by the
craggy paths, across the mountains. The tombs are all cut out of the
solid rock, which is of hard calcareous stone, as white as it is
possible for a stone to be. They consist in general of a long square
passage, which leads to a staircase, sometimes with a gallery at each
side of it, and other chambers. Advancing farther we come to wider
apartments, and other passages and stairs, and at last into a large
hall, where the great sarcophagus lay, which contained the remains of
the kings. Some of these tombs are quite open, and others encumbered
with rubbish at the entrance. Nine or ten may be reckoned of a superior
class, and five or six of a lower order. Strabo may have counted
eighteen, as may be done to this day, including some of an inferior
class, which cannot be esteemed as tombs of the kings of Egypt from any
other circumstance, than that of having been placed in this valley. For
my part, I could distinguish only ten or eleven that could be honoured
with the name of the tombs of kings, nor do I suppose when Strabo was
told by the Egyptian priests, that there were forty-seven tombs of the
kings of Egypt, they meant to say, these tombs were all in the place,
now named Beban el Malook. In confirmation of this I would observe, that
similar tombs, and perhaps even more magnificent ones, are to be found
out of this valley, which are open to this very day. I do not mean the
tombs in the western valley, that forms the other branch of Beban el
Malook; but those in Gournou, which the traveller seldom fails to see.
There are various tombs at that place, which are worthy to be compared
with those in Beban el Malook; and I will venture to say, that there is
one in Gournou far superior to any in that valley, being more extensive,
and, from the fragments that remain, apparently of greater magnificence.
But the frequent exposure to all sorts of injury from the various
visitors, owing to their being nearer to the Nile, has reduced the tombs
at Gournou to a state of the greatest dilapidation. From the besmoked
and defaced walls it is easy to see, that they have been frequently
visited and perhaps inhabited by herds of Arabs at a time, who retired
to these recesses to escape the violent hands of their pursuers. If we
add the tombs in the valley above mentioned to those of the superior
class at Gournou, I will allow, that the Egyptian priests were right in
their reports; otherwise I must say, it is my firm opinion, that in the
valley of Beban el Malook, there are no more than are now known, in
consequence of my late discoveries; for, previously to my quitting that
place, I exerted all my humble abilities in endeavouring to find another
tomb, but could not succeed; and what is a still greater proof,
independent of my own researches, after I quitted the place, Mr. Salt,
the British consul, resided there four months, and laboured in like
manner in vain to find another. I think therefore I may venture to
assert, that the whole forty or forty-seven tombs of the kings of Egypt
could not be in this valley, but some of them were in various other
places.
One argument more I shall offer on this subject. If the tombs of Gournou
above mentioned, which are superior to those in the valley of Beban el
Malook in size, in variety of apartments, consequently in number, and I
will add, from what now remains to be seen, in the excellence of the
sculpture, were not for the kings of Egypt, what other person in that
country could aspire to such high honours, and presume to have tombs
superior to those of the kings? If I maybe permitted to give my humble
opinion on the subject, I should conclude, that the tombs in the valley
of Beban el Malook were erected subsequently to those in Gournou; for I
could scarcely find a spot in the latter place adapted to the excavation
of another of the great tombs, and it may be supposed, that when all the
best spots for large tombs in Gournou had been occupied, the Egyptians
went over the rocks to seek another situation in which to deposit their
kings. Certain it is, that the tombs in the valley of Beban el Malook
are in far better condition than those in Gournou.
Under these circumstances, reflecting on the possibility of discovering
some of the tombs of the kings, I set the few men I had to work.
On the 6th of October I began my excavation, and on the 9th discovered
the first tomb: the apparent arrangement of the entrance indicated it to
be a very large one; but it proved to be only the passage of one that
was never finished. The Egyptians, however, would not lose their labour,
for they used it as a tomb notwithstanding. Though it is not extensive,
they plastered it very finely with white, and painted some very fine
figures on it in the most finished style. This passage is ten feet five
inches wide, and seventy-five feet from the entrance to the part where
we come to evidently the unfinished work. From the appearance, as it
stands, it is plain, that they intended to proceed, and that some
particular event caused the work to be stopped. The painted figures on
the wall are so perfect, that they are the best adapted of any I ever
saw to give a correct and clear idea of the Egyptian taste. This tomb
lies south-east from the centre of the valley, and quite at the foot of
the large rocks, that overlook Gournou. As I had several parties of
Fellahs at work in different directions, I hoped to make farther
discoveries; and indeed this first success gave me much encouragement,
as it assured me, that I was correct in my idea of discovering the
tombs. On the same day we perceived some marks of another tomb in an
excavation, that had been begun three days before, precisely in the same
direction as the first tomb, and not a hundred yards from it. In fact, I
had the pleasure to see this second tomb on the same day, the 9th. This
is more extensive, but entirely new, and without a single painting in
it: it had been searched by the ancients, as we perceived at the end of
the first passage a brick wall, which stopped the entrance, and had been
forced through. After passing this brick wall you descend a staircase,
and proceed through another corridor, at the end of which is the
entrance to a pretty large chamber, with a single pillar in the centre,
and not plastered in any part. At one corner of this chamber we found
two mummies on the ground quite naked, without cloth or case. They were
females, and their hair pretty long, and well preserved, though it was
easily separated from the head by pulling it a little. At one side of
this room is a small door, leading into a small chamber, in which we
found the fragments of several earthen vessels, and also pieces of vases
of alabaster, but so decayed that we could not join one to another. On
the top of the staircase we found an earthen jar quite perfect, with a
few hieroglyphics on it, and large enough to contain two buckets of
water. This tomb is a hundred feet from the entrance to the end of the
chamber, twenty feet deep, and twenty-three wide. The smaller chamber is
ten feet square: it faces the east by south, and runs straight towards
west by north.
Several days before we received news, that there were some English
people coming up from Cairo, and we were anxiously expecting them, as we
knew by letter from that place, that they were three English gentlemen.
Early on the morning of the 10th they reached Beban el Malook,
accompanied by Mr. Beechey, who was at Luxor, where they arrived the
evening before.
Early on the next morning, the 11th, we began the tour of Thebes. We
went to see the tombs in Gournou, and the little temple in the valley
behind the Memnonium. About twelve o’clock word was brought me, that a
tomb discovered the day before was opened, so that we might enter it. On
this we took the road over the rocks immediately, and arrived in less
than three quarters of an hour. I found the tomb just opened, and
entered to see how far it was practicable to examine it. Having
proceeded through a passage thirty-two feet long, and eight feet wide, I
descended a staircase of twenty-eight feet, and reached a tolerably
large and well-painted room. I then made a signal from below to the
travellers, that they might descend, and they entered into the tomb,
which is seventeen feet long, and twenty-one wide. The ceiling was in
good preservation, but not in the best style. We found a sarcophagus of
granite, with two mummies in it, and in a corner a statue standing
erect, six feet six inches high, and beautifully cut out of
sycamore-wood: it is nearly perfect except the nose. We found also a
number of little images of wood, well carved, representing symbolical
figures. Some had a lion’s head, others a fox’s, others a monkey’s. One
had a land-tortoise instead of a head. We found a calf with the head of
a hippopotamus. At each side of this chamber is a smaller one, eight
feet wide, and seven feet long; and at the end of it is another chamber,
ten feet long by seven wide. In the chamber on our right hand we found
another statue like the first, but not perfect. No doubt they had been
placed one on each side of the sarcophagus, holding a lamp or some
offering in their hands, one hand being stretched out in the proper
posture to hold something, and the other hanging down. The sarcophagus
was covered with hieroglyphics merely painted, or outlined: it faces
south-east by east.
Next day, the 12th, the party could not proceed on their voyage, the
wind being foul. On the 13th I caused some spots of ground to be dug at
Gournou, and we succeeded in opening a mummy pit on that day, so that
the travellers had the satisfaction of seeing a pit just opened, and
receiving clear ideas of the manner in which the mummies are found,
though all tombs are not alike. This was a small one, and consisted of
two rooms painted all over, but not in the best style. It appeared to me
that the tomb belonged to some warrior, as there were a great number of
men enrolling themselves for soldiers, and another writing their names
in a book. There are also several other figures, &c. In the lower
apartment we saw the mummies lying here and there, without any
regularity. To all appearance therefore this pit had been opened by the
Greeks, or some other people, to plunder it.
The same day we visited another mummy pit, which I had opened six months
before. The construction is somewhat similar to what I have just
described, a portico and a subterraneous cavity where the mummies are.
Here the paintings are beautiful, not only for their preservation, but
for the novelty of their figures. There are two harps, one with nine
strings, and the other with fourteen, and several other strange
representations: in particular, six dancing girls, with fifes,
tambourines, pipes of reeds, guitars, &c.
On the 16th I recommenced my excavations in the valley of Beban el
Malook, and pointed out the fortunate spot, which has paid me for all
the trouble I took in my researches. I may call this a fortunate day,
one of the best perhaps of my life; I do not mean to say, that fortune
has made me rich, for I do not consider all rich men fortunate; but she
has given me that satisfaction, that extreme pleasure, which wealth
cannot purchase; the pleasure of discovering what has been long sought
in vain, and of presenting the world with a new and perfect monument of
Egyptian antiquity, which can be recorded as superior to any other in
point of grandeur, style, and preservation, appearing as if just
finished on the day we entered it; and what I found in it will show its
great superiority to all others. Not fifteen yards from the last tomb
described, I caused the earth to be opened at the foot of a steep hill,
and under a torrent, which, when it rains in the desert, pours a great
quantity of water over the very spot I have caused to be dug. No one
could imagine, that the ancient Egyptians would make the entrance into
such an immense and superb excavation just under a torrent of water; but
I had strong reasons to suppose, that there was a tomb in that place,
from indications I had observed in my pursuit. The Fellahs who were
accustomed to dig were all of opinion, that there was nothing in that
spot, as the situation of this tomb differed from that of any other. I
continued the work, however, and the next day, the 17th, in the evening,
we perceived the part of the rock that was cut, and formed the entrance.
On the 18th, early in the morning, the task was resumed, and about noon
the workmen reached the entrance, which was eighteen feet below the
surface of the ground. The appearance indicated, that the tomb was of
the first rate: but I did not expect to find such a one as it really
proved to be. The Fellahs advanced till they saw that it was probably a
large tomb, when they protested they could go no farther, the tomb was
so much choked up with large stones, which they could not get out of the
passage. I descended, examined the place, pointed out to them where they
might dig, and in an hour there was room enough for me to enter through
a passage that the earth had left under the ceiling of the first
corridor, which is thirty-six feet two inches long, and eight feet eight
inches wide, and when cleared of the ruins, eight feet nine inches high.
I perceived immediately by the painting on the ceiling, and by the
hieroglyphics in basso relievo, which were to be seen where the earth
did not reach, that this was the entrance into a large and magnificent
tomb. At the end of this corridor I came to a staircase twenty-three
feet long, and of the same breadth as the corridor. The door at the
bottom is twelve feet high. At the foot of the staircase I entered
another corridor, thirty-seven feet three inches long, and of the same
width and height as the other, each side sculptured with hieroglyphics
in basso relievo, and painted. The ceiling also is finely painted, and
in pretty good preservation (See Plate 2). The more I saw, the more I
was eager to see, such being the nature of man: but I was checked in my
anxiety at this time, for at the end of this passage I reached a large
pit, which intercepted my progress. This pit is thirty feet deep, and
fourteen feet by twelve feet three inches wide. The upper part is
adorned with figures, from the wall of the passage up to the ceiling.
The passages from the entrance all the way to this pit have an
inclination downward of an angle of eighteen degrees. On the opposite
side of the pit facing the entrance I perceived a small aperture two
feet wide and two feet six inches high, and at the bottom of the wall a
quantity of rubbish. A rope fastened to a piece of wood, that was laid
across the passage against the projections which form a kind of door,
appears to have been used by the ancients for descending into the pit;
and from the small aperture on the opposite side hung another, which
reached the bottom, no doubt for the purpose of ascending. We could
clearly perceive, that the water which entered the passages from the
torrents of rain ran into this pit, and the wood and rope fastened to it
crumbled to dust on touching them. At the bottom of the pit were several
pieces of wood, placed against the side of it, so as to assist the
person who was to ascend by the rope into the aperture. I saw the
impossibility of proceeding at the moment. Mr. Beechey, who that day
came from Luxor, entered the tomb, but was also disappointed of
advancing any farther.
The next day, the 19th, by means of a long beam we succeeded in sending
a man up into the aperture, and having contrived to make a bridge of two
beams, we crossed the pit. The little aperture we found to be an opening
forced through a wall, that had entirely closed the entrance, which was
as large as the corridor. The Egyptians had closely shut it up,
plastered the wall over, and painted it like the rest of the sides of
the pit, so that but for the aperture, it would have been impossible to
suppose, that there was any farther proceeding; and any one would
conclude, that the tomb ended with the pit. The rope in the inside of
the wall did not fall to dust, but remained pretty strong, the water not
having reached it at all; and the wood to which it was attached was in
good preservation. It was owing to this method of keeping the damp out
of the inner parts of the tomb, that these apartments are so well
preserved. I observed some cavities at the bottom of the well, but found
nothing in them, nor any communication from the bottom to any other
place; therefore we could not doubt their being made to receive the
waters from the rain, which happens occasionally in this mountain. The
valley is so much raised by the rubbish, which the water carries down
from the upper parts that the entrance into these tombs is become much
lower than the torrents; in consequence, the water finds its way into
the tombs, some of which are entirely choked up with earth.
When we had passed through the little aperture, we found ourselves in a
beautiful hall, twenty-seven feet six inches by twenty-five feet ten
inches, in which were four pillars three feet square. I shall not give
any description of the painting, till I have described the whole of the
chambers. At the end of this room, which I call the entrance-hall, and
opposite the aperture, is a large door, from which three steps lead down
into a chamber with two pillars. This is twenty-eight feet two inches by
twenty-five feet six inches. The pillars are three feet ten inches
square. I gave it the name of the drawing-room; for it is covered with
figures, which, though only outlined, are so fine and perfect, that one
would think they had been drawn only the day before. Returning into the
entrance-hall, there is on the left of the aperture a large staircase,
which descended into a corridor. It is thirteen feet four inches long,
seven and a half wide, and has eighteen steps. At the bottom we entered
a beautiful corridor, thirty-six feet six inches by six feet eleven
inches. We perceived, that the paintings became more perfect as we
advanced farther into the interior. They retained their gloss, or a kind
of varnish over the colours, which had a beautiful effect. The figures
are painted on a white ground. At the end of this corridor we descended
ten steps, which I call the small stairs, into another, seventeen feet
two inches by ten feet five inches. From this we entered a small
chamber, twenty feet four inches by thirteen feet eight inches, to which
I gave the name of the Room of Beauties; for it is adorned with the most
beautiful figures in basso relievo, like all the rest, and painted. When
standing in the centre of this chamber, the traveller is surrounded by
an assembly of Egyptian gods and goddesses. Proceeding farther, we
entered a large hall, twenty-seven feet nine inches by twenty-six feet
ten inches. In this hall are two rows of square pillars, three on each
side of the entrance, forming a line with the corridors. At each side of
this hall is a small chamber: that on the right is ten feet five inches
by eight feet eight inches; that on the left, ten feet five inches by
eight feet nine inches and a half. This hall I termed the Hall of
Pillars; the little room on the right, Isis’ Room, as in it a large cow
is painted, of which I shall give a description hereafter; that on the
left, the Room of Mysteries, from the mysterious figures it exhibits. At
the end of this hall we entered a large saloon, with an arched roof or
ceiling, which is separated from the Hall of Pillars only by a step; so
that the two may be reckoned one. The saloon is thirty-one feet ten
inches by twenty-seven feet. On the right of the saloon is a small
chamber without any thing in it, roughly cut, as if unfinished, and
without painting: on the left we entered a chamber with two square
pillars, twenty-five feet eight inches by twenty-two feet ten inches.
This I called the Sideboard Room, as it has a projection of three feet
in form of a sideboard all round, which was perhaps intended to contain
the articles necessary for the funeral ceremony. The pillars are three
feet four inches square, and the whole beautifully painted as the rest.
At the same end of the room, and facing the Hall of Pillars, we entered
by a large door into another chamber with four pillars, one of which is
fallen down. This chamber is forty-three feet four inches by seventeen
feet six inches; the pillars three feet seven inches square. It is
covered with white plaster, where the rock did not cut smoothly, but
there is no painting on it. I named it the Bull’s, or Apis’ Room, as we
found the carcass of a bull in it, embalmed with asphaltum; and also,
scattered in various places, an immense quantity of small wooden figures
of mummies six or eight inches long, and covered with asphaltum to
preserve them. There were some other figures of fine earth baked,
coloured blue, and strongly varnished. On each side of the two little
rooms were some wooden statues standing erect, four feet high, with a
circular hollow inside, as if to contain a roll of papyrus, which I have
no doubt they did. We found likewise fragments of other statues of wood
and of composition.