large place; but our astonishment increased, when we found it to be one
of the most magnificent of temples, enriched with beautiful intaglios,
painting, colossal figures, &c. We entered at first into a large
pronaos, fifty-seven feet long and fifty-two wide, supported by two rows
of square pillars, in a line from the front door to the door of the
sekos (See Plate 43). Each pillar has a figure, not unlike those at
Medinet Aboo, finely executed, and very little injured by time. The tops
of their turbans reach the ceiling, which is about thirty feet high: the
pillars are five feet and a half square. Both these and the walls are
covered with beautiful hieroglyphics, the style of which is somewhat
superior, or at least bolder, than that of any others in Egypt, not only
in the workmanship, but also in the subjects. They exhibit battles,
storming of castles, triumphs over the Ethiopians, sacrifices, &c. In
some places is to be seen the same hero as at Medinet Aboo, but in a
different posture. Some of the colours are much injured by the close and
heated atmosphere, the temperature of which was so hot, that the
thermometer must have risen to above a hundred and thirty degrees. The
second hall is about twenty-two feet high, thirty-seven wide, and
twenty-five and a half long. It contains four pillars about four feet
square; and the walls of this also are covered with fine hieroglyphics
in pretty good preservation. Beyond this is a shorter chamber,
thirty-seven feet wide, in which is the entrance into the sanctuary. At
each end of this chamber is a door, leading into smaller chambers in the
same direction with the sanctuary, each eight feet by seven. The
sanctuary is twenty-three feet and a half long, and twelve feet wide. It
contains a pedestal in the centre, and at the end four colossal sitting
figures: they are in good preservation, not having been injured by
violence. On the right side of this great hall, entering into the
temple, are two doors, at a short distance from each other, which lead
into two long separate rooms, the first thirty-eight feet ten inches in
length, and eleven feet five inches wide; the other forty-eight feet
seven inches, by thirteen feet three. At the end of the first are
several unfinished hieroglyphics, of which some, though merely sketched,
give fine ideas of their manner of drawing. At the lateral corners of
the entrance into the second chamber from the great hall is a door, each
of which leads into a small chamber twenty-two feet six inches long, and
ten feet wide. Each of these rooms has two doors leading into two other
chambers, forty-three feet in length, and ten feet eleven inches wide.
There are two benches in them, apparently to sit on. The most remarkable
subjects in this temple are, a group of captive Ethiopians, in the
western corner of the great hall, the hero killing a man with his spear,
another lying slain under his feet, on the same western wall: the
storming of a castle, in the western corner from the front door. The
outside of this temple is magnificent. It is a hundred and seventeen
feet wide, and eighty-six feet high; the height from the top of the
cornice to the top of the door being sixty-six feet six inches, and the
height of the door twenty feet. There are four enormous sitting colossi,
the largest in Egypt or Nubia, except the great Sphinx at the pyramids,
to which they approach in the proportion of near two-thirds. From the
shoulder to the elbow they measure fifteen feet six inches; the ears
three feet six inches; the face seven feet; the beard five feet six
inches; across the shoulders twenty-five feet four inches; their height
is about fifty-one feet, not including the caps, which are about
fourteen feet. There are only two of these colossi in sight, one is
still buried under the sand, and the other, which is near the door, is
half fallen down, and buried also. On the top of the door is a colossal
figure of Osiris twenty feet high, with two colossal hieroglyphic
figures, one on each side, looking towards it. On the top of the temple
is a cornice with hieroglyphics, a torus and frize under it. The cornice
is six feet wide, the frize is four feet. Above the cornice is a row of
sitting monkeys eight feet high, and six across the shoulders. They are
twenty-one in number. This temple was nearly two-thirds buried under the
sand, of which we removed thirty-one feet before we came to the upper
part of the door. It must have had a very fine landing-place, which is
now totally buried under the sand. It is the last and largest temple
excavated in the solid rock in Nubia, between the first and second
cataract, or Egypt, except the new tomb. It took twenty-two days to open
it, beside six days last year. We sometimes had eighty men at work, and
sometimes only our own personal exertions, the party consisting of Mr.
Beechey, Captains Irby and Mangles, myself, two servants, and the crew,
eleven in all, and three boys. It is situated under a rock about a
hundred feet above the Nile, facing the south-east by east, and about
one day and a half’s journey from the second cataract in Nubia, or Wady
Halfa.
The heat was so great in the interior of the temple, that it scarcely
permitted us to take any drawings, as the perspiration from our hands
soon rendered the paper quite wet. Accordingly, we left this operation
to succeeding travellers, who may set about it with more convenience
than we could, as the place will become cooler. Our stock of provision
was so reduced, that the only food we had for the last six days was
dhourra, boiled in water without salt, of which we had none left. The
Cacheffs had given orders to the people not to sell us any kind of food
whatever, hoping that we might be driven away by hunger. But there was
an Ababdy, who lived in the village, and as he was of a different tribe,
he was not so much afraid of disobeying the Cacheffs. He sometimes came
at night, and brought us milk; but he was at last detected, and
prevented from bringing any more.
Great credit is due to Mr. Beechey, and the two Captains, for their
laborious exertions in assisting me in the above operation. I must not
omit to mention, that, in the temple, we found two lions with hawks’
heads, the body as large as life; a small sitting figure, and some
copper work belonging to the doors.
We left Ybsambul on the 4th of August, and did not stop at Ibrim, as we
had seen it before. On passing Tomas, a village on the western banks of
the Nile, we were told, that Daoud Cacheff was there. We found he was
ready to receive us, and came himself on board, entreating us to go on
shore, which we did, though not without hesitation, as he had not
behaved well to us. He wished us to stop all night, and attempted to be
very civil. We stated to him, that we had not been well treated by the
people of Ybsambul; to which he replied, hastily, that he knew nothing
of the matter. But how could he be ignorant of it, when one of his men,
who came to see us at work, and inquired what we lived upon, was at that
moment standing by his side, as well as others, whom we recognized to
have been of the party, and who came there to raise a disturbance?
Perceiving we knew what he had done to us, he attempted to make us
amends, presenting us with a sheep and a basket of bread; and on
quitting the place, I received a present from his wife for Mrs. Belzoni,
of a milch goat, two small baskets, and a carpet made of palm leaves. I
gave in return two pair of Turkish women’s boots, and two small
looking-glasses.
On our arrival at Deir, we met Khalil Cacheff, who crossed the Nile in a
boat, and hailed us, saying he would return to us very soon. By this
time it was quite dark, and we went to see the temple immediately with
candles, as we hoped to set off early in the morning, and avoid meeting
such a sincere friend. On our return, we attempted to procure some
provision, but it was too late at night. About ten o’clock, Khalil
returned, but we were asleep. Early in the morning we were told, that he
had sent us some aqua vitæ and a lamb. We were sorry for this, as it
retarded us. Some time after he came on board, accompanied by his party.
We returned him thanks for what we had received, but told him, that we
could not give him any thing in return, as we were destitute ourselves,
and that at Ybsambul we had lived on boiled dhourra for several days, as
the peasants had refused to sell us any thing to eat. We knew very well
that all this was done by his order, but he pretended, like his brother,
not to know any thing of it. We did not think proper to say much, as we
wished to be gone, and leave these affectionate friends on peaceful
terms. At last, after examining our boat, and the strange figure we had
found in the temple, he with great sorrow quitted us, and we set off
immediately. It is to be remarked, that all his civility was out of
opposition to his brother Daoud, in hopes that we should bring him
something on our coming up again; for it was plain to be seen, that it
was all forced politeness.
The temple at Deir is in a very ruinous state. I saw but one or two
figures entire: the fragments of the rest indicate, that it was
dedicated to Osiris. There was a portico, with sixteen pillars, twelve
of which are fallen down. It has a chamber, and a sanctuary, with two
small chambers, one on each side.
In about two hours we arrived at Almeida, the ruins of a small temple on
the north of the Nile. The river there takes its course from north-west
to south-east. It is a small temple, and has served for a Greek chapel.
The hieroglyphics are pretty well finished, but nearly covered with
plaster by the Greeks. There are other apartments, of unburnt bricks,
which served as a monastery to the works. Toward evening we arrived at
Seboua. The ruins of the temple here I have described before.
Four days more brought us down to El Kalabshe. We landed, to visit the
temple; but the Fellahs, seeing our boat at some distance, gathered
together at the entrance to the temple, determined that we should not go
in, unless we first paid them for leave. We were accordingly stopped,
and money was demanded. We refused to comply, but promised, that, if
they would let us in, we would give them a bakshis afterward. As this
did not satisfy them, and they behaved in a very insolent manner, we
were returning to our boat, when our soldier said, that he would
remember them. On this their daggers were instantly drawn, and his gun
was seized. A scuffle took place, which gave us something to do to
rescue the gun from the one who had taken it from the soldier, and was
endeavouring to decamp with it. On our approaching the boat, some of
them, perceiving our indifference whether we saw the temple or not, came
to offer to let us enter, while others were of a different opinion; but,
as we had seen the temple before, we did not think it worth our while to
venture to force our way into it. While all this was going on at the
temple, others attacked the boat; but, as our people were armed with
pistols and guns, they retreated. One man entered the boat with a drawn
sword, but was turned out.
Having left El Kalabshe, we passed by Taffa, but could not land there,
as the narrow passage of the Nile did not permit us to approach the
shore. There are two small temples at Taffa, which I had seen before.
One consists of a single chamber, and two columns, one of which is not
finished. The other has some few hieroglyphics in a good style: it
serves as a stable for sheep and cows. We arrived the same evening at
Hindau, where we saw an extensive wall, apparently made to enclose a
vast building, or probably more than one. There are the remains of a
portal on the north side, and a great quantity of ruins within. Coming
down, we saw several quarries and ruins; in one of which is a door cut
in the rock in the Egyptian style, and a number of Greek inscriptions,
written, I suppose, by some Greek workmen, and which I think serve to
prove that the Greeks procured stones from this place. We observed the
remains of a temple, of which six columns are standing, beautifully
adorned with the lotus and other emblematic devices of the Egyptians.
Farther down there is another column standing alone.
In a few hours we arrived at Debod. This temple has a portico and a
sekos, which leads into the cella, at each side of which is a small
chamber. In the portico also are two chambers, and a staircase leading
to the top. There are a few hieroglyphics; and in the sekos are two
monolite temples of granite. In the porch of the building are three
portals, one before another. The whole building is surrounded by a wall.
On the water-side is a quay, with an entrance toward the temple.
We arrived on the same day at the island of Philoe: Mrs. Belzoni went to
Assouan by land, and we resolved to pass the cataract in the boat in
which we came. The barbarians made objections, and took some advantage,
but they will do any thing for money. Accordingly we set off from the
island, and began to take our course gradually among the rapids and
rocks of the Shellal. As we advanced, we expected every moment to arrive
at the spot where the great fall is; but having passed over several
rapids, one, in particular, a little stronger, but not more
extraordinary than are seen in other rivers, we were agreeably surprised
to find, that in less than an hour we were out of all danger. I have
seen the great cataract on the west side when the water is low; and its
fall was then, in length, about six hundred yards, forming an angle of
thirty or thirty-five degrees, divided by the interspersed rocks into
various branches. On our arrival at Assouan we prepared immediately for
our departure; but meanwhile we visited the island of Elephantine once
more, and in the evening went to see the column with the Latin
inscription, which I discovered in the mountain of Assouan. We had some
difficulty to find it again, as the guide conducted us by another road,
different from that which I took the first time. Next day we left that
place; and as the current of the Nile (it being now near its height) was
very strong, we reached Thebes in three days.
On our passage we visited Edfu once more; and, farther down, we landed
at Elethias, and took a cursory view of its ruins and grottoes. There is
a high thick wall of unburnt bricks, which surrounds the whole town. It
is a square enclosure of six hundred and seventy yards. We saw the ruins
of three or four temples. One appears to have been very extensive; but
only six columns of the portico remain (See Plate 41), and part of the
sekos of another. This town was formerly much more extensive than it is
at present, as appears by its ruins. I observed part of the walls of
ancient buildings at some distance from the great wall which surrounds
the town. Among the ruins of the largest temple I noticed part of a
large sphinx of white marble, with the head of a woman and body of a
lion. There were also fragments of several statues, and other ornaments
of the temple, part of which are covered by its own ruins. On the east
of this temple was a small lake, or rather tank, which perhaps was a
public bath, as we may likewise presume of those near the temple in
Carnak; but at present there is no water in it. On the west of the town
is another building, of a later date, which extends from the great wall
to the river. There are many ruins of houses with arches, but the walls
are inferior in point of size. The remains of a pier or landing-place
are visible when the water is low; and it appeared to me, that there had
been a causeway from the stair at the water-side to the temple.
The country round the town is pretty flat, and extends above a mile from
the Nile to the mountains. It must have been all cultivated and fertile,
as the few spots that are now in cultivation are very productive. Some
excellent grapes are produced in this place; and it is to be remarked,
that, from the representations in the grottoes or sepulchres in the
mountains, the dressing of vines appears to have formed one of the chief
occupations of the people. The sepulchres in these rocks are numerous,
and several are much on the same plan as those of Gournou. Some contain
various agricultural representations; from which may be formed a more
exact idea of their manner of living than I have seen any where else.
The figures and colours are in pretty good preservation. I cannot say,
however, that they can boast of any great perfection in their sculpture;
and it is evident that the dead deposited in those places must have been
husbandmen. I am of opinion that this town had a communication with the
Red Sea; my reason for which I shall state hereafter.
One mile to the north of the town is a small peripteral temple, situated
in the midst of an extensive plain, now covered with sand, but which
evidently was once cultivated. The rock in which the tombs are cut forms
a solitary hill, that commands the surrounding country. From its summit
I could see an extensive plain of sand, extending north and south of the
town nine or ten miles along the banks of the Nile, and a mile and a
half in breadth from the river to the foot of the mountain. When the
whole of this land was cultivated, it must have produced provisions
sufficient for a town of considerable importance. Three miles to the
north of Elethias the rocks reach close to the Nile. There is a village
named El Khab, which includes the whole of the above-mentioned land,
with the ruins of Elethias.
On our arrival at Luxor we took up our former abode in the sekos of the
temple, and found ourselves at home again; for Thebes was now become
quite familiar to me. We received letters from Mr. Salt, by which we
learned that he was purposing to ascend the Nile. The two Captains, Irby
and Mangles, set off for Cairo, Mr. Beechey began to take drawings of
the different places, and I recommenced my researches.
At Gournou I found two more agents of Mr. Drouetti busied in digging the
ground in all directions, and who had been tolerably successful in their
researches for mummies. These agents were of a different cast from the
two Copts who had been there before. Both of them were Piedmontese: one
a renegado who had deserted from the French army when in Egypt, and
entered the service of the Bashaw; the other had left Piedmont after the
fall of the late government. I did not like to begin my work in any
place near these people, and therefore gave up the idea of prosecuting
my researches in Gournou. It was fortunate for me I did so, and from
that time I made the valley of Beban el Malook the scene of my
researches, which is completely separated from Gournou by the chain of
mountains, that divides Thebes from the valley. I went to this place
quite alone, and spent the whole day in making observations, the result
of which confirmed me in the opinion, that there was a sufficient
prospect to encourage me to commence my work.
It will be recollected, that, when we left Thebes for the island of
Philoe, we could not obtain any labourers, in consequence of the orders
of the Bey. Supposing the same would be the case at this time, I sought
the Cacheff of Erments, to obtain an order to allow the men to work. I
found that the old Cacheff had fallen into disgrace with the Defterdar
Bey, and was displaced and gone; consequently I applied to the Cacheff
of Ghous, who had become ruler over the great city of a hundred gates.
He was well aware, that to allow us to engage men to work would not
please the Defterdar Bey; but reflecting on the firman we had from the
Bashaw himself, and the barefaced distinction made in favour of the
opposite party, who had many men at work, he could not well refuse me a
small number of Arabs. I accordingly obtained from him a firman to the
Sheiks of Gournou, to furnish me with twenty men, with whom I began my
operations in the valley above mentioned. Here I entered upon an
undertaking, that appeared rather presumptuous, when I recollected, that
many travellers had been there, and many had inquired as to the
possibility of discovering more tombs, than were already known, even
from the time of Herodotus and Strabo. The former speaks of the tombs as
being above forty in number. In the time of Strabo not half so many were
known to exist. Having found by experience, that the reports of ancient
authors are not always to be depended upon, particularly when they speak
from hearsay, I put them out of the account, and proceeded entirely on
my own judgment to search for the tombs of the monarchs of Thebes.
I began in the valley to the westward of Beban el Malook, near the same
place where I discovered the tomb the year before. Here I must acquaint
my reader, that the only guide I had in these discoveries was the
knowledge I had acquired in the continued researches for tombs I made in
Gournou. In these I found that the Egyptians had a particular manner of
forming the entrance into their tombs, which gave me many leading ideas
to the discovery of them. Besides, the supposition that many of these
tombs must have been buried under the stones and rubbish, which
continually fall from the upper parts of the mountains, the great
quantity of materials cut out of the tomb accumulated in considerable
heaps in different parts of the valley, might give various suggestions
of the spots where the entrance to the tombs was to be found, as is
justly observed by Mr. Hamilton. But all these striking reasons it
appears were insufficient to lead any traveller to persevere in the
attempt, or to make the attempt at all; and indeed it would have been
the same with me, had I not been acquainted with a more secure mode of
proceeding.
After a long survey of the western valley, I could observe only one
spot, that presented the appearance of a tomb. Accordingly, I set the
men to work near a hundred yards from the tomb which I discovered the
year before; and when they had got a little below the surface, they came
to some large stones, which had evidently been put there by those who
closed the tomb. Having removed these stones, I perceived the rock had
been cut on both sides, and found a passage leading downwards. I could
proceed no farther that day, as the men were much fatigued, and we had
more than four miles to return to Thebes. The next day we resumed our
labour, and in a few hours came to a well-built wall of stones of
various sizes. The following day I caused a large pole to be brought,
and by means of another small piece of palm-tree laid across the
entrance, I made a machine not unlike a battering-ram. The walls
resisted the blows of the Arabs for some time, as they were not Romans,
nor had the pole the ram’s head of bronze at its end; but they contrived
to make a breach at last, and in the same way the opening was enlarged.
We immediately entered, and found ourselves on a staircase, eight feet
wide and ten feet high, at the bottom of which were four mummies, in
their cases, lying flat on the ground, with their heads toward the
outside. Farther on were four more, lying in the same direction. The
cases were all painted, and one had a large covering thrown over it,
exactly like the pall upon the coffins of the present day.
I went through the operation of examining all these mummies one by one.
They were much alike in their foldings, except that which had the
painted linen over it. Among the others I found one, that had new linen
apparently, put over the old rags; which proves, that the Egyptians took
great care of their dead, even for many years after their decease. That
which was distinguished from all the rest, I observed was dressed in
finer linen, and more neatly wrapped up. It had garlands of flowers and
leaves, and on the side over the heart I found a plate of the metal
which I have already described, soft like lead, covered with another
metal, not unlike silver leaf. It had the eyes of a cow, which so often
represents Isis, engraved on it; and in the centre of the breast was
another plate, with the winged globe. Both plates were nearly six inches
long. On unfolding the linen, we still found it very fine, which was not
the case with the other mummies; for, after three or four foldings, it
was generally of a coarser kind. At last we came to the body, of which
nothing was to be seen but the bones, which had assumed a yellow tint.
The case was in part painted; but the linen cloth covering it fell to
pieces as soon as it was touched, I believe owing to the paint that was
on it, which consisted of various devices and flowers. The cases were
sunk four inches into the cement I have already mentioned. Some of the
painting on the inside of the cases appeared quite fresh, as if recently
done; and there was generally a coat of varnish, whether laid on over
the colours, or incorporated with them, I do not know. For what purpose
this tomb might have been intended, I cannot pretend to say: perhaps it
was originally designed for one of the royal blood. It appeared by the
entrance to have been commenced on a scale similar to those of the
kings; though it seems to have been finished for a more humble family.
The result of my researches gave me all the satisfaction I could desire,
of finding mummies in cases, in their original position: but this was
not the principal object I had in view; for, as I was near the place
where the kings of Egypt were buried, I thought I might have a chance of
discovering some of their relics.