present, it would have had a better effect. As he saw the address
previous to his taking the letter into his hands, he dexterously turned
the discourse on other business; and half an hour passed before I could
bring the subject on again, which he still contrived to divert. I was at
a loss what to think of his behaviour, and began to inquire, if there
were any reasons why our works were stopped at Carnak, and orders given
at Gournou, that the English should not purchase any thing, and on what
account they were to be distinguished from the opposite party. He looked
at the letter a second time; and, with a smile, told the Cacheffs what
the Bashaw had written, but the letter was expressed in a manner as if
the old Bashaw were in his dotage and quite childish; so that the Bey
might do as he pleased in the affair. He then put the letter aside, and
began to talk of other matters. I saw that he wanted an excuse for his
conduct towards us; for he said he had been informed that the Fellahs
had complained of being so exceedingly ill-treated by us, that we drew
our swords every moment to cut off their heads, and that we beat them
continually. At this I rose from my seat, and said I was surprised that
a man of his good understanding could believe such reports, and condemn
us without proof; that, if he would inquire into the matter, he would
find it to be all false; and that it was his duty to do me justice. He
answered, that we had bought nearly every article of antiquity that
could be obtained in Gournou, while the other party could purchase
nothing, and therefore it was time to stop our proceedings. I replied,
what we had bought had been voluntarily sold to us by the Arabs, and
begged him not to believe what he heard from our opponents, who played
such tricks, that we could not be aware of them. He continued to talk of
other things, till at last I asked him what he intended to do with
respect to the order for Carnak: to which he made no reply, but inquired
whether Gournou were far off. On being shown the place out of the
window, six miles distant, he ordered horses, and in a few minutes we
set off for that place. We arrived in two hours, and he went straight on
to Memnonium; where he inquired about these great “mosquees,” as he
named them, and put several questions concerning the buildings and the
colossi that are there. He then proceeded to the two colossi, and from
them to Medinet, whither I followed him, as I was determined to have the
order he gave to the Sheiks recalled. I sought an opportunity to speak
to him tête-à-tête, and indeed I had many, but all to no purpose; for
the moment I began to mention the business, he put some other question,
so that my words were of no effect. Still I was determined not to lose
my patience, as I saw this was what he wanted, and resolved not to leave
him a moment; for it is the character of the Turks, that they must be
importuned into compliance with whatever is against their inclination.
After a general survey of the ruins, he seated himself before the famous
battle painted on the wall, and gave his opinion respecting it;
observing, it was impossible that the colouring could have been done at
the time the figures were made, as it was so fresh, and the stones were
so much broken. I told him, it was owing to the climate of the country
that these things were preserved; but he persisted in his opinion, that
it was impossible it could be so. Then, quitting his station, he seated
himself under the archway of the first entrance, and called the Sheik of
Gournou, whom he knew to be our friend, and who had received the order
the night before. The poor Sheik, trembling all over at this call, was
asked how many men there were in Gournou who dug the ground in search of
mummies. The Sheik answered six or seven. I saw the Bey did not know
what to do to gratify his spleen; and, as he could not avoid retracting
the order, the poor Sheik was to suffer, and our party to be mortified.
A diabolical thought came into his head; and he asked the Sheik if he
could find in Gournou a mummy that had not been opened. The Sheik
answered, that one might be found, if he gave him time to search; but
the people who find them always open them instantly. On this the Bey
flew into a great rage, and insisted that one should be found
immediately; and, if he did not find it, he would give him the
bastinado. The poor Sheik was ordered to dig directly under his feet,
and take out a mummy; but he answered, that the mummies were in Gournou,
and none were ever found in the place where he stood: and it was well
for him that one of the attendants and a Cacheff confirmed what he said.
The Bey then sent him to Gournou, and told him to see that he found a
mummy, in its case and unopened; and he allowed him an hour for doing
it. The poor Sheik attempted to speak, but was turned out by three or
four soldiers. A little after, the Bey began to ask some other questions
respecting the temple, particularly if we had taken any drawings;
adding, that he could draw himself, if he had paper and pencils. I told
him I had no doubt he might make some good sketches from what was before
him; on which he asked me for a pencil and some paper, which I gave him
from my pocket-book, and he made a sketch of the capital of one of the
columns that are before the gate. When finished, it was shown to all
around with great parade. He praised it himself highly, and every one
agreed, that it was very fine indeed. He then gave it to me, with an air
of self-conceit, saying, “There, see what I can do!” I took it, put it
into my pocket, and have preserved it, as it may give an idea of the
person by whom it was executed. We left Medinet Abou and came to
Gournou, and under a doum-tree saw the Sheik and some of the Janizaries,
with the mummy ready for his highness. Before he drew near to ascertain
the fact, the Bey began to cry out that he was sure it had been opened
by one of the fellows who search for mummies; and it was in vain he was
told otherwise. I did not imagine things would be carried to such an
extreme. That the case had been opened no one could suspect; but the Bey
wanted a pretence to beat the poor Sheik for being our friend.
Accordingly, he ordered him to be immediately stretched on the ground;
and such a scene ensued, that I heard from the Turks themselves
expressions both of displeasure and disgust. I perceived that all this
was owing to the intrigues of our opponents, who had told the Bey, that
the Sheik was our friend; and as they brought him some trifling presents
to back their assertion, of course he listened to what they said. I did
not fail to intercede for the unfortunate wretch, who all this time was
under the stick, but it was useless; and I was persuaded, the more I
entreated, the more beating he would receive. The interpreter, not
reflecting on what he did, ventured to intercede in the name of Mr.
Salt, the British consul; at which the Bey laughed. He then begged in
the name of his father-in-law, the Bashaw; and the Bey made answer, that
he was the sole commander in all business there; adding, to the man who
was punishing the Sheik, “Go on, go on, and hard.”
By this time the poor fellow was like the mummy that lay by his side,
deprived of sense and feeling; and with a little more beating I have no
doubt would have remained there for ever, and been buried where he lay.
I leave to the imagination of any friend of humanity to what a height my
blood rose, and what my feelings must have been at that moment. I can
assure the reader I did not think I could have stood so long without
openly declaring them; but I reflected, that losing my patience would
answer no good purpose, and only expose me to insults from the Bey, for
all he wanted was an opportunity to justify him in acting as he liked
towards us. Reason, however, subdued not my rage, but it restrained the
mere action of my body, and I stood for a long time motionless. The Bey
was smiling, and I was afraid might discover the state of my feelings,
which would have increased his pleasure. At last he told the man to
stop, and the miserable Sheik was carried to his cave as into his tomb;
and was, indeed, more fit for the tomb than for a house. The Bey then
caused the mummy to be opened, and finding nothing, he exclaimed, if
they did not bring him one that was entire, he would throw the Sheik
into the river. Observing that I avoided speaking to him, for I was too
much disgusted even to continue near such a being, he called another
Sheik, and ordered, that henceforth whatever antiquities were found in
Gournou should be sold to our opponents. On my representing to him, that
I now felt myself under the necessity of writing to Cairo that very
night, he mounted his horse, called my interpreter, and bade him
despatch a man to Gamola, and he would send an order by him, to have the
men at work the next day. I told him, that I should send to Cairo
notwithstanding this apparent change in his sentiments; as it was
incumbent on me to let the Bashaw know how his commands were obeyed. I
then went to see the Sheik, whom I found unable to speak; I did all I
could for him; but there was such fear amongst the Arabs, that they
dreaded having any thing to do with us.
In the morning I was about to send the interpreter to Gamola, when we
saw the cangiar of the Bey passing before Luxor, and the Cacheff of
Gheneh just landing a man from Gamola, who brought an order, that we
might have twenty men to work for eight days. When I perceived that the
Bey did not stop, I spoke to the Cacheff, to use his influence, that the
order might be enforced; but he seemed desirous of evading it, as he was
aware it was merely a pretext on the part of the Bey. He told us
plainly, that our opponents had calumniated us to the Bey; and
protested, that if it had been in his power, he would have befriended
us. Accordingly I gave him to understand, that it would be to his
advantage to be friendly to our party, as well as to the other, and that
the Bey’s enmity would not last much longer, as it was simply owing to
some business which had prevented the Consul from coming, who intended
to bring with him presents both to the Bey and to himself, when all
would be set to rights again. At length my persuasions prevailed; he
ordered the men to work; and in a few days I collected all the pieces of
antiquity together on the quay of Luxor; and caused a mud wall to be
made round them.
At this time the Fellahs of Gournou were all in great consternation, in
consequence of another order they had received from the Bey not to sell
any thing either to us, or to the French; and to get three unopened
mummies ready for him on his return, which would be in a few days. This
was a pretext they had no doubt for a general bastinadoing, as it was
expressly said, that the mummies were to be procured by the men who
worked for the English. The poor Sheik, who still could scarcely move,
began to fear that he should receive another beating; and we had just
finished some works at Carnak and Luxor, when, on the 3d of May, in the
morning, our gentleman made his appearance at Luxor on his return from
Derou. On landing, he came to see our collection of antiques, which
certainly formed no inconsiderable group. He made a remark or two, that
the head was a very fine piece, &c. and then, like a being bewildered,
ran here and there among the ruins, to seek for antiquities, without
knowing where he went. As he appeared to be a little more disposed to
hearken to what we had to say to him, we complained of our situation;
stating to him, that in consequence of what he had done to the Sheik on
the other side of the water, the Fellahs would not work, and that,
although we had brought strong letters of recommendation from the Bashaw
himself, we were without protection, exposed to the insolence of our
opponents, and every one else, who thought they might act as they
pleased towards us with impunity. He inquired if any one had done us any
injury; and we informed him, that our interpreter had been beaten by the
Fellahs of Carnak, and that the Caimakan, after it had been proved, said
he could do nothing to the assailants, as he was afraid of incurring the
displeasure of the Bey. He next asked, if I were displeased because he
had beaten the Sheik of Gournou. I said, it was not pleasant to see any
one beaten without cause, for the Sheik had had no dealings with us, had
not sold us a single article of antiquity; but he might treat his own
people as he liked, for we had no business to interfere either with his
orders, or with them, so long as they were not injurious to us. He then
wished to know what we wanted. We said, that we wanted to be respected,
and to be allowed to proceed in our researches. We did not wish to be
treated with more favour than our opponents; but we were desirous of an
order to the people of Gournou, that we might purchase antiquities as
well as others; and a farther order for the Cacheffs of Assouan and
Ibrim, as we intended to ascend the Nile; with which he complied, and
set off.
On our return to Luxor I found two of the fathers of the Propaganda whom
I had met with on my first journey from Redamont to Luxor, and who were
come to see the antiquities. As they had treated me with civility on my
journey, I felt it my duty to return the obligation. Accordingly I went
with them to all the places I knew, and in particular to the tombs of
the kings, the Memnonium, Medinet Aboo, Carnak, Luxor, &c. To me it was
in general a source of pleasure to show these things to strangers, to
hear their remarks, and to observe their astonishment and satisfaction,
after coming so far to view what cannot be seen any where else; at the
same time no vexation can be greater to a lover of antiquity, than when
he witnesses indifference even to what is most striking, which is often
the case. These two holy fathers had been in the country for about ten
years, and their place of residence was only at the distance of three
days’ journey from Thebes; yet they had never thought of taking the
trouble of such a journey during all that time, and probably never would
have done it, had it not been for my persuasion when I first saw them.
Such neglect of antiquities would be not a little provoking to the
travellers who come from London, Paris, Vienna, and Petersburg, to see
these magnificent ruins. On arriving at the first tombs through the
entrance, which is truly magnificent, the holy fathers, who had as much
taste for antiquity as the animals that brought them, complained of
being very much fatigued, though they had been carried by two very good
asses. My attention was on the alert for the first bursts of their
astonishment; but how I was disappointed! They dismounted without taking
any more notice of these magnificent places, than of a common building,
or of the cloister of a convent. They sent immediately for the boy who
had the bottle of aquavitæ, and drank a glass each. I thought they meant
to take it easily, and to examine every thing minutely, but I was soon
undeceived, for the only observation they made was on the name of a
friend they happened to know, which was scrawled on one of these sacred
walls in charcoal. They expressed their wonder how he had come thither,
when he had been there, and so on; and although they were surrounded by
Egyptian antiquities, hieroglyphics, figures, fine paintings, &c. all
their occupation was to inspect the numerous other scrawls on the
stones, to see whether any more of their friends had been there. On our
arrival at the great hall, they could not help observing the immense
sarcophagus that lies there, and immediately inquired whether the body
were still in it. On advancing a little farther, and perceiving it had
been emptied, they concluded there was nothing worth seeing, as there
were none of the kings’ bodies to be found. At my request they cast
their eyes on the painting, otherwise they would have walked out without
knowing whether it were a tomb or a cellar: in the mean time a friend of
theirs, who not being quite so anxious as the fathers to see these
antiquities, had seated himself near the entrance, as he cared not about
coming any farther, was calling to the holy friars to make haste, and
wondered why they would waste so much time in examining such things. It
may easily be imagined, that I was not only disappointed in the taste of
my companions, but also provoked at their indifference; and as I saw
there was no remedy, I hurried them out of the tomb as fast as I could,
to show them another more magnificent, in hopes to have better success.
Accordingly I took them to see the most remarkable of the tombs, and
that which is reckoned the best. This tomb is truly grand; it is
distinguished from the others not only by its excellent state of
preservation, but because it contains eight small cells cut in the rock,
in the first passage on each side of it, in which are painted a
multitude of articles used by the ancient Egyptians, such as implements
of war, domestic and ceremonial dresses, decorations, musical
instruments, and in short all that was conducive to utility, ornament,
or convenience, in their time, so as to give perfect ideas of their mode
of living, &c. The ground is white, and the colours are so lively and
striking, that we cannot fail to wonder at them. Farther on you pass
through a long gallery, painted with the most beautiful hieroglyphics,
in as good perfection as the former; and in the great hall lies an
enormous sarcophagus, of one single piece of granite, measuring ten feet
long, five wide, six high, and six inches thick, covered with
hieroglyphics inside and out. This is one of the largest sarcophagi
remaining in perfection at this day. There are other apartments
communicating with the great hall, all of which deserve the attention of
the traveller, for in them he sees various groups of figures and
hieroglyphics indicating the manner of living, agriculture, &c.
On our entering I informed the fathers that this was the finest tomb,
and that it contained paintings of the implements and other things of
the ancients, which are very interesting. They passed the first corridor
with the same apathy as the first tomb, holding a candle into each of
the cells as they passed, and peeping in with their heads, but without
entering. The only thing that struck their attention were the hasps on a
little box, somewhat like those which contain large flasks for liquors.
On coming out I took the road over the mountain, which is a little
troublesome, but in a few minutes it brings you to the summit, and then
descends to Medinet Abou. Having no better success here, I returned with
them to Luxor.
A strong wind that arose this day leads me to mention some particulars
of the phenomena that often happen in Egypt. The first I shall notice is
the _whirlwinds_, which occur all the year round, but especially at the
time of the camseen wind, which begins in April, and lasts fifty days.
Hence the name of camseen, which in Arabic signifies fifty. It generally
blows from the south-west, and lasts four, five, or six days without
varying, so very strong, that it raises the sands to a great height,
forming a general cloud, so thick that it is impossible to keep the eyes
open, if not under cover. It is troublesome even to the Arabs; it forces
the sand into the houses through every cranny, and fills every thing
with it. The caravans cannot proceed in the deserts; the boats cannot
continue their voyages; and travellers are obliged to eat sand in spite
of their teeth. The whole is like a chaos. Often a quantity of sand and
small stones gradually ascends to a great height and forms a column
sixty or seventy feet in diameter, and so thick, that were it steady on
one spot, it would appear a solid mass. This not only revolves within
its own circumference, but runs in a circular direction over a great
space of ground, sometimes maintaining itself in motion for half an
hour, and where it falls it accumulates a small hill of sand. God help
the poor traveller who is caught under it!
The next phenomenon is the _mirage_, often described by travellers, who
assert having been deceived by it, as at a distance it appears to them
like water. This is certainly the fact, and I must confess, that I have
been deceived myself, even after I was aware of it. The perfect
resemblance to water, and the strong desire for this element, made me
conclude, in spite of all my caution not to be deceived, that it was
really water I saw. It generally appears like a still lake, so unmoved
by the wind, that every thing above is to be seen most distinctly
reflected by it, which is the principal cause of the deception. If the
wind agitate any of the plants that rise above the horizon of the
mirage, the motion is seen perfectly at a great distance. If the
traveller stand elevated much above the mirage, the apparent water seems
less united and less deep, for, as the eyes look down upon it, there is
not thickness enough in the vapour on the surface of the ground to
conceal the earth from the sight. But, if the traveller be on a level
with the horizon of the mirage, he cannot see through it, so that it
appears to him clear water. By putting my head first to the ground, and
then mounting a camel, the height of which from the ground might have
been about ten feet at the most, I found a great difference in the
appearance of the mirage. On approaching it, it becomes thinner, and
appears as if agitated by the wind, like a field of ripe corn. It
gradually vanishes as the traveller approaches, and at last entirely
disappears when he is on the spot.
The third phenomenon is the _locusts_. These animals I have seen in such
clouds, that twice the number in the same space would form an opaque
mass, which would wholly intercept the rays of the sun, and cause
complete darkness. They alight on fields of corn, or other vegetables,
and in a few minutes devour their whole produce. The natives make a
great noise to frighten them away, but in vain; and, by way of
retaliation, they catch and eat them when fried, considering them a
dainty repast. They are something like the grasshopper in form, about
two inches in length. They are generally of a yellow or gold colour, but
there are some red and some green.
To return to our proceedings at Luxor. By this time our opponents were
preparing to depart for Cairo, at which we rejoiced, as we thought we
should remain quite alone. We had written to Cairo, informing Mr. Salt,
the consul, of all that passed with the Bey; but indeed, unless a person
is present at such occurrences, he can feel no interest in them, nor
understand the disgust they excite. I had written also to Mr. Burckhardt
on the subject, and from his answer I perceived, that the Bey’s conduct
excited in him no surprise.
When at last we thought we should remain alone, and pursue our
researches in peace, I made preparations for commencing our work at
Gournou. After having, in some measure persuaded the and the people of
the place, that they would not incur the displeasure of the Bey, as I
had an order from himself, which permitted them to work for us, and sell
us antiques, it was agreed, that all the Sheiks should meet in the
morning, and hear the order read. Accordingly, we assembled in the
grotto, that usually serves as a public place for strangers, and a sort
of exchange for buying and selling antiques. A great number of the
Fellahs also came to hear the firman, which the great man had written
with his own hand; and in consequence of the example that had recently
been made of their Sheik, they were very attentive. The firman had been
kept by our interpreter well secured in his pocket, as the most mighty
order that had ever been given; and he often boasted of having it in his
possession. At last it was produced, and put into the hands of the only
person among the Sheiks who could read it. He first perused it to
himself, that he might read it fluently to the assembly; but had not
gone far, when he turned towards me a look of astonishment: however, he
proceeded to the end, and then asked me whether he should read it aloud
to the assembly; and upon my answering in the affirmative, read nearly
as follows:
“It is the will and pleasure of Hamed, the Defterdar Bey and present
ruler of Upper Egypt, that no Sheiks, Fellahs, or other persons, shall
from this moment sell any article of antiquity to the English party, or
work for them; on the contrary, it is hereby ordered, that every thing
that may be found shall be sold to the party of Mr. Drouetti; and
whoever disobeys this order will incur the displeasure of the Bey.”
I need not inform the reader how I felt on hearing this mandate, the
very reverse of what the Bey had given me reason to expect. Were I sure
of not returning to Egypt again, I would explain farther how this
happened, and what means had been employed to influence the Bey: but as
I do not know what fate may attend my future proceedings, I shall say
nothing on the subject till the proper season, when this and many other
things, of which the world has not the smallest idea, shall be
explained, and the various intrigues be exposed to light, that were
darkly carried on against me by more than one description of persons.
Under the circumstances I have stated, we deemed it of no use to attempt
a renewal of our labours, and contented ourselves with writing to Cairo,
and entering on our intended journey to the island of Philoe. I had
suggested to Mr. Salt, that, if he could send us a supply of money, we
would proceed to open the temple of Ybsambul; a project that was deemed
nearly imaginary, a castle in the air, as no one supposed any temple
really existed there. After having secured all our collection in one
spot, and built a mud wall round it, and covered it with earth, we left
an Arab Sheik to guard it, and, on the 23d of May, set off for Assouan.
As we intended to examine every thing on our return, we went straight
on, seeing scarcely any thing except Edfu and Ombos. At Assouan, we took
a general view of Elephantine, and the other islands, and proceeded to
Philoe, as our station to await the answer to the letters we had sent
from Luxor to Mr. Salt. On our way, we took a good view of the cataract.
One of the principal falls at this season is about thirty feet in
length, forming an angle of fifteen degrees. Small boats and cangiars
can be drawn up or down at all times of the year.