pleasant situation, commanding a view of the Nile, and a considerable
part of the country. It contains a great number of houses, built like
those at Ibrim; but the land on the east side is covered with sand. The
western bank of the Nile is fertile, abounding with trees of various
sorts, acacias, tamarisks, and many thorny groups. Farther on we came to
the district of Kosko, on both sides of the Nile; then to Endana, or
Oddenham, Garba, Farras, and, a little farther, to the island of the
same name; beyond which was Antero on the south, and above it on the
same side Diberet, and the island so called. Here we passed the night.
In almost all these parts we observed the left side of the Nile quite
barren, except at Farras. On the right it is pretty full of palm-trees,
and some dhourra is seen. The soil of the islands, however, seems to be
the most fertile.
We next morning reached Eshke, the residence of the Cacheff, and
certainly the best spot of land above Ibrim and Assouan. The trees are
very thick here, and a large tract of land is cultivated along the Nile,
producing a great deal of dhourra and cotton, which, being cleaned and
sent to Cairo, are exchanged for ready made lines, salt, and tobacco. On
our arrival we were told, that Osseyn Cacheff was not at Eshke, but
would return in a few days, as he was only at a small distance. As I did
not like to go back to Ybsambul till I had an interview with him, we
advanced to the second cataract, situated higher up. The Nile here turns
to the south-west, the lands as we advanced still continued to be well
cultivated, and the few huts, which were visible among the trees, were
stronger and better built than those of the Arabs of Egypt. We fastened
our boat to the shore, in the same district.
We set off early next morning, and with a good north wind soon saw
Aloanortis on the right, and above it on the left Debrous. A little
farther on was an island of the same name; and higher up on our left the
district of Angosh or Sukoy. I had expected, judging from the rocky
nature of the country about the first cataract, to have seen the
mountain of the second at a great distance; but to my surprise we
arrived at the very last district, without perceiving any thing but a
flat country before us. The territory of Wady Halfa is the last on the
Nile, on this side of the cataract. In the middle of the river is an
island called Givarty, after this another called Mainarty, and beyond
these two others, named Genesap and Ennerty. These four are cultivated;
but there are others innumerable, which form the shellal or cataract,
that are all barren. Some present nothing to the eye but bare stones and
sand; others a few sycamore trees and sunt; but there are no palm-trees,
except in the four islands first mentioned.
About nine in the morning we made to the shore, as near as possible to
the last cultivated land on the left, which is Wady Halfa. A few of the
natives came to see us, whom I requested to bring some asses, that we
might ride to the cataract,—a request they complied with without any
difficulty. Mrs. Belzoni and myself (the Janizary and interpreter
advancing before us) proceeded as far as the day would permit us, so as
to return in proper time to the bark at night. We had many views of the
cataract, and in different directions. I mounted one of the rocks, to
have a distant view of the deserts; and as far as I could see it is a
flat country, except a few rocks that project here and there,
particularly at the river’s side, but they are of small dimensions.
Towards the desert we saw several wild antelopes, which kept at a great
distance from us. As the Nile was high, the current had not so great a
fall, as when it is low; but I believe the cataract is not navigable at
any time of the year. The rock forming this cataract differs from that
of the first, for here is no granite, but a kind of black marble quite
as hard. Some say it is black granite, but I cannot consider it as such:
the grain of it is too coarse, and not so compact as that of granite.
We returned to the bark after sunset, and immediately crossed to the
island Mainarty, where we arrived at dusk. We saw fires and people at a
distance; but when we arrived we could not find any one. Their huts were
left with all they had, which consisted only of dry dates, and a kind of
paste made of the same, which they kept in large vases of clay baked in
the sun, and covered with baskets made of palm leaves. A baking-stove
and a mat to sleep on were the whole of their furniture. They had pots
and leathern bags to bring water from the Nile for their lands. Their
settlement consisted of four men and seven women, with two or three
children. They have no communication with the main land, except when the
water is low, for at any other time the current, being immediately under
the cataract, is so rapid, as to render it impossible to ford it; and
boats never go to these islands, seldom passing farther than Wady Halfa.
They are poor but happy: knowing nothing of the enticing luxuries of the
world, and resting content with what Providence supplies as the reward
of their industry. They have a few sheep and goats, which furnish them
with milk all the year round; and the few spots of land they have are
well cultivated, producing a little dhourra, which forms their yearly
stock of provision. The wool they spin into yarn; wind the threads round
little stones, and thus suspend them to a long stick fixed in an
horizontal position between two trees, to form a warp; and by passing
another thread alternately between these fabricate a kind of coarse
cloth, with which they cover the lower part of their bodies.
I visited along with the Reis the whole of the island, which is about an
eighth of a mile in length, and half as much in breadth. It was quite
late when we found this poor but truly happy people. They had lighted a
fire to make their bread, and it was this fire which directed us to that
quarter. They were all hidden in a hole under some ruins of an old
castle, which stands on the south side of the island; and when we
approached them, the women set up a loud scream through fear. Our Reis,
who was a native of the lower part of Nubia, could talk their language,
and pacified them: yet, notwithstanding this, we could not entice more
than one man out of the place. Their fear was owing to some depredations
committed by the robbers of Wady Halfa a few years before, who, at low
water, forded over to the island, and did all the injury that could be
done to such people. We assured them, that we were not like the robbers
of Wady Halfa, but came only to get some one to show us the way to the
cataract. At this, they were more afraid than ever; and said, that it
never happened that boats passed higher than Wady Halfa, which is at the
beginning of the cataract; it being impossible to proceed farther, owing
to the quantity of rocky islands. The Reis himself opposed my wish to
ascend higher, fearing more for his boat than for our lives. At last it
was concluded, that the Reis should leave his son on the island as a
hostage for the two men, while they came on board, to show us the way
up. They knew their way to these islands; for at low water they frequent
them, to collect some of the earth, from which they extract a sort of
saltpetre, which they use in their food. I had reasons for not remaining
at night with the boat fastened to the main land, and consequently
preferred staying at the island.
Early in the morning of the 14th, we took on board the two men of the
island, to pilot us towards the cataract as far as the boat could go,
and then to show us the way we should proceed. We went on with the same
strong north wind; and as we had plenty of water, advanced with our bark
till we found ourselves so tossed about by the different currents and
eddies, as to prevent our farther progress; and at the same time were so
situated, that we could not return back, for fear of being driven
against some of the rocks, which abounded on each side. Thus we were
confined to one spot for about an hour. Sometimes we had a rapid start
for a hundred yards; then all at once were stopped, and turned round, in
spite of all our efforts, and of the north wind, which blew very hard.
At last we were caught on a sudden in one of the eddies of water, and
driven against a rock concealed about two feet below the surface. The
shock was terrible; and I must confess, having Mrs. Belzoni on board, I
felt no small degree of alarm, as I thought the boat was split in two.
For my own part, perhaps I might have swam on shore; but Mrs. Belzoni
was no small charge to me on this occasion. However, as it pleased God,
and to my astonishment, there was no harm done. By crossing the rock we
were on, we succeeded in getting to the other side of the river as
quickly as possible, and when we arrived, forgot all the danger we had
just passed. We landed, and took our route on foot; Mrs. Belzoni,
myself, the interpreter, the Janizary, the two men from the island, and
four boys belonging to the bark; carrying with us some provision and
water. We proceeded, on the rocks, and over a plain of sand and stones,
till we arrived at the rock called Apsir, which is the highest in the
neighbourhood of the cataract, and commands a complete view of the
falls. The prospect from this spot is magnificent. The several thousand
islands which are seen, of various sizes and forms, with as many
different falls of water, running rapidly onward, while counter-currents
return with equal velocity, exhibit a diversified appearance, truly
grand. The blackness of the stones, the green of the trees on the
islands, intermixed with the white froth of the water, form a fine
picture, which can scarcely be described or delineated.
Hence you see the four other cultivated islands, which lie on the south,
or the most remote part of the cataract. They are named as follows:
Nuba, Gamnarty, Ducully, and Suckeyr: on the north side are two others,
called Dorge and Tabai. These islands are inhabited by a race of people
who may be looked on as living in the most primitive state; for no one
ever goes to them, nor do they ever quit their island. They are very few
in number—in some of the islands not more than five or six; and they
live on the produce of the few spots of ground they find on them, which
they continually irrigate with the common machine named hade, consisting
only of a piece of sheepskin and two sticks, by which they draw up the
water. They have also a few sheep; and fabricate a cloth from cotton
produced in the islands, in the same manner as they make that of wool.
On the left of the cataract the soil differs from that on the right. It
consists of soft whitish stones and sand. From this spot it may be seen,
that the course of the river is for a considerable extent among the
rocks; and the summits of two high mountains are to be seen at a great
distance. This part is not frequented by travellers; for there is no
mode of conveyance, and no inhabitants on that side of the cataract.
Boats never venture thither: when the water is low, it is impossible;
and, when high, it would require a very strong north wind, to stem the
rapid current against the boat.
We returned slowly to the bark, and took our course towards the island
we had left in the morning; but unfortunately the wind, being very
strong, drove us to the island of Gulgé. The Reis wished to pass the
whole night there; but in the evening the wind shifting a little, we
returned to the island we were at before. But again, notwithstanding the
proof we had given of our harmless intentions, the natives were not to
be seen; and even the two men who had been with us in the boat no sooner
landed than they disappeared. The son of the Reis, however, was
preparing some food; and we were glad to have escaped the danger of so
many eddies and rocks.
I forgot to mention that on the island Gulgé I perceived the remains of
an ancient wall, in the form of a church, and built of sun-baked bricks.
It was in the centre of the island, and consisted of three
divisions.—See Plate 32.
15th.—In the morning we would not leave the island without seeing the
inhabitants. The men soon appeared for their bakshis; and at last came
the women, to see Mrs. Belzoni, who made them presents of glass
bead-necklaces, with which they were wonderfully pleased: though, as it
is their custom to take all, and give nothing, they did not even return
us thanks for what they received; but took their presents, laughed, and
ran away immediately.
We now descended the river with a strong north wind against us; and
though some authors assert, that the Nile has no waves, but runs quite
smooth, I can assure the reader, that we were this day tossed about as
if by a gale at sea. The wind blowing fresh against a strong current
naturally caused this effect.
We arrived in the afternoon at the village of Iskus, and went to see
Osseyn Cacheff, who was returned, and to whom we had a letter from his
brother Mahomet at Deir. I had landed with my interpreter and the
Janizary, and entered a kind of house made in the shape of an angle of a
propylæon. These houses would not stand the weight of an upper
apartment, if they were built perpendicularly; for the clay walls, of
which they are made, would fall outward. The Cacheff’s house was adorned
with an old mat spread on the ground as usual, a water jar, and a chain
with two hooks made in a particular manner. This was that same Osseyn,
who was one of the two brothers that caused Mr. Burckhardt to return
from Tinareh. He was about sixty-eight years of age, five feet eleven
inches high, stout and robust, and able to support the charge he was
born to hold. He was surrounded by thirty men, all armed, some with
matchlock guns and long swords, and some with spears and shields instead
of guns. He was clothed in a long tunic down to his feet, made of white
woollen cloth, with a belt round his waist, to which his sword, flint,
and steel were attached. Over his shoulder he had a long shawl, made of
the same stuff as the tunic, thrown partly over his head, so as to cover
it from the sun. He had also a red turban, and on his feet a pair of
ragged shoes. Notwithstanding his dress, there was an air of superiority
about him, which distinguished him at once above all the rest. It is
worthy of observation, that even among barbarians great respect is paid
to superiors; and those very men, who would murder a fellow-creature in
a difference about a few pipes of tobacco, almost tremble at the frown
of a single and sometimes harmless old man. His inquiries concerning my
business were very minute; but I soon brought the affair of the temple
forward, which did not a little surprise him. He said he knew the
entrance into the place very well; that the round ball on the large head
was the door of the great Dere, as he named it, and if removed I could
immediately enter. This round ball was no other than the globe on the
head of the hawk-headed Osiris, which stood over the door, as I
mentioned before. At first he stated to me the great difficulty, if not
impossibility of opening this place; and at last, when I had endeavoured
to remove these obstacles, he made me promise, that, if I found the
temple full of gold, I should give him half. To this I agreed, on
condition that if I found only stones, they should be all my own
property; and he immediately assented, for he said he wanted no stones.
Upon this he gave me a letter to his son at Ybsambul, and when I left
him, and went on board, I sent him some trifling presents, which he
received with pleasure, and sent us a lamb.
When I came to the bark I found it crowded with women, who had learned
from our crew, as we passed upwards, that there was a woman on board;
and as soon as we arrived, on our return, they all ran to the shore.
Mrs. Belzoni, not supposing they would come in such numbers, made a
present of some glass beads to one of the wives of the Cacheff. This was
enough: they increased in crowds, and we had to please them all.
Next morning we continued our voyage, and arrived very early at
Ybsambul. I went to see a small temple on the south side, opposite the
village; but it is of no consequence, only it may be remarked as the
last on the Nile on this side of the cataract. It has served as a chapel
to the Christian Greeks; and the figures of the Apostles remain nearly
perfect painted on the wall and roof. We crossed the river, and I went
immediately to Daoud Cacheff. Having presented the letter from his
father, he sent for the men who were intended to work. I found these
people complete savages, and entirely unacquainted with any kind of
labour. They had changed their minds since I was there last; and, though
I had the authority of the Cacheff, they would not work. My persuasion
was of no avail; first, because they were not inclined to such labour;
secondly, they did not know the value of money, &c. At last I pretended
to give up my project, and go away. When the Cacheff saw that I meant to
go, and that he should lose many a good present, he began to talk to
them; and at last, with much difficulty, reduced the payment to one half
of what they had demanded before. On my agreeing to this, they
immediately insisted, that I should employ as many as they chose. It was
in vain I told them, thirty were more than sufficient for my purpose;
they would not hear of less than a hundred. With this it was impossible
for me to comply; so I rose, and took leave of the Cacheff, ordering the
Reis to go on board, and set off immediately. This, however, was not
satisfactory to the parties; they had still more to say, and at last it
was concluded, that I should take forty men, who were to be at the bark
before the sun rose next morning, as it was nearly two miles from the
village to the temple. I went on board, heartily wishing I had done with
these people.
17th.—Early in the morning when I expected to see these wild men, for
such I must call them, I was greatly disappointed: the sun was very
high, and no one appeared. I then returned to the Cacheff, to inquire
whether the men meant to make a joke of the business, or to work. Not
being accustomed to be disturbed so early, he rose very slowly, and sent
a party of his soldiers to search for the men, some of whom at last made
their appearance, while others pretended they could not come. Their
excuse was, that they saw a Bedoween in the desert, and they were all on
the watch. The day before they wanted to be employed to the number of a
hundred, and to-day they were unwilling to be employed at all. At length
some arrived by land, some by water, but very late, and we went at last
to the temple. I took it patiently, and began the work in such a
direction, that the sand should fall off from the centre of the front of
the temple, where naturally the door must be. They had a long stick,
with a cross piece of wood at the end, at each extremity of which was a
rope. One man drew the long stick back, and another pulled it forward.
This is the method they use in removing the earth in their cultivated
ground, and I found it very useful in clearing away sand also. As it was
the first day of our enterprise, they went on better than I expected;
and all their thoughts and talk were on the quantity of gold, pearls,
and jewels, we should find in the place. I did not discourage them in
their supposition, as I considered it to be the best stimulus they could
have to proceed. At noon I gave them some boiled lentils, and bread
soup, with which they were pretty well pleased. The Cacheff, who
attended to the work himself, partook of what I ate. At night I paid the
men, and recommended them to be there again early in the morning. The
Cacheff and part of his court came on board, and we returned to the
village for the night.
18th.—In the morning we went to the temple, and the Fellahs came after
us rather late, and we began the work again very slowly. I had to use a
great deal of persuasion this day; for the savages were led to think,
they had laboured too hard on the first day, so that they were
obstinate, and I had much ado to prevail on them to continue. As they
complained of being very much tired, I promised, that they should not
work the next day, but be allowed to rest themselves. We ended this
day’s work before sunset, and returned to the village. Finding ourselves
but ill supplied with provision in this place, I offered more than usual
for a sheep, but to no purpose: I was obliged to eat rice and water, and
very little of that, as we had not much on board. Our stock of butter
was quite finished, and milk was very scarce.
19th.—In the morning I went to see the Cacheff, to speak about some palm
wood. I found him quite changed in his behaviour, starting a thousand
difficulties; in particular, that the Fellahs would not come to work any
more, as it was useless for them to fatigue themselves for a little
money; adding, that it was impossible to get any palm wood; though at
the same time we were surrounded by it. I answered, that this was not
our agreement; and, as I kept my word, and paid the Fellahs according to
our first engagement, I expected them to perform their part of the
bargain. After much debate, it was at last concluded, that I should see
the Fellahs at night, and try myself what could be done, for he could
not serve me. In short, I could make nothing of him; but his interpreter
soon gave me to understand, that all this difficulty arose from my not
having made him any considerable present; and the soldier who was with
me from Siout told me, that I ought not to omit giving him a brace of
pistols, or some other valuable thing. I saw their meaning immediately;
but I also knew that these people never feel grateful for any thing
after they receive it, but think only of contriving new tricks to extort
more, if possible; so that it is just the same whether you give or not.
However, I took a middle course, and told the interpreter, that I would
provide a good bakshis both for his master and himself, if they would
interest themselves in my favour. In the afternoon the savages were all
assembled, and I was sent for. The brother of the Cacheff, whom I saw
the first time we arrived at Ybsambul, was there: his behaviour however
was altered, and much for the better; so that he, who at first was
rough, became smooth, and the smooth became rough. I inquired about the
wood, and was told, that I must go to a place two leagues off, where I
should find some; but this was said only to start new difficulties, as I
knew there was plenty in the village. With respect to the savages, I was
informed, that they would not come to work so hard, unless I doubled the
numbers. It was in vain for me to tell them, that a man does not work
more when alone, than when accompanied by multitudes. They were
obstinate, and I could do nothing with them; for had I consented to
employ a hundred, I should soon have been called on to make it up two
hundred. I promised to give bakshis to the brother of the Cacheff, who
began to talk to them in their own language; and to my astonishment all
at once they agreed to come to the number of forty only; on condition,
however, that I should give them the sixth part of an ardep of corn to
make bread with. The Cacheff seemed displeased with the influence of his
brother, and rose and walked off. A barbarian from Deir, who was a
stranger in the island, and had come thither to cultivate a piece of
ground, had bought some wood to build a sakias, or water machine; but as
he could not agree with the savages at Ybsambul, and was going away, he
proposed to sell his wood to me; and I gladly availed myself of the
opportunity, and thus got over this difficulty.