mountains at this place stretch far from the Nile, and leave a spacious
plain, which no doubt has been formerly cultivated, but is now covered
with sand. A stratum of vegetable mould is visible, three feet under the
sand on the banks of the Nile. The temple stands about a hundred yards
from the river, and has a very elegant appearance. There are no
hieroglyphics on the outside wall, but the interior is adorned with
beautiful figures in basso relievo: it has a pronaos, an adytum, and a
cella. On the west side of the adytum is a small staircase which leads
to the top of the temple; and on the east a small chamber, with figures
uncommonly well executed: the walls of the cella are well covered with
religious processions. In the lower part I observed several figures, not
unlike hermaphrodites. From the cella a door in a line with the first
entrance leads into an area, formed by a wall which surrounds the
edifice, except in front. On the east side of the exterior wall is a
door, which leads to a passage across the temple, that separates the
pronaos from the adytum. The temple faces the north, and at the distance
of forty-eight feet is a propylæon, with the gateway facing the entrance
to the pronaos. The isolated situation of this edifice renders it still
more graceful to the eyes of the traveller, as it is entirely free from
any other building near it. On the propylæon are several Egyptian,
Coptic, and Greek inscriptions, one of which is as follows:
ΔΟΜΙΣΙΟϹΑΡΡΙΛΝΟϹ
ϹΤΡΑΤΙϹΠεΙΡΗςΙΤΟΥΡΑΝ,
ΦΗΛΙΚΟΚΑΙΔΟΜΙΤΙ
ΟΥΙΟϹΜΟΥϹΥΝΤωΠΑΝΓΑ
ΟΙΚωΠΡΟϹεΚΥΝΗΟΛ
ΦεΟΝΜεΓΙϹΤΟΝεΡΜΗ
ΚΑΔΡΙΑΝΟΥΚΑΙϹΑΡΟϹ
ΤΟΥΚΥΡΙΟΥΤΥΒΙΙΗ
We continued our voyage, and arrived in the afternoon at Meharraka, or
Offelina, where stand the ruins of a small Egyptian temple, but
evidently built by the Greeks. It consists of only a single portico,
forty-two feet long and twenty-five wide, with a row of columns round
the two sides and the back. On the right is a winding staircase, the
only one I recollect having seen in any temple in Egypt or Nubia. The
columns are fourteen in all. It has served as a Christian chapel, as is
shown by many figures of the apostles which remain perfect on the walls;
but on close examination I observed clearly the Egyptian figures under
the saints. The main entrance is closed by an altar, no doubt built by
the Copts or Greeks at the Christian epoch. The wall facing the south is
fallen down, but the stones still adhere to each other. On one of them I
saw the fragment following of an inscription.
ΝΗ^{LL}
VΙϹΙΗRΟΥΝ^L _c_ΤΤ_c_
ΤΙωΤΟΥΚΑΙΤωΝϵ_t_-ϹϵΒϵϹ
ΤΑΤωΝϜΟΝϵωΝΚΑΙϜ-ΑΙΟΥ
Υ WΙΚΓΟΥΑΑϵΑΦϹΥΚΝ
ΑΟΙΤϜωΝΑΑϵΑΦΙΙ
A few paces to the east stands part of another temple, on which is the
figure of Isis, dressed in the Greek costume, sitting under a tree.
Before her stands the figure of Orus, in the act of offering to his
mother. In a niche further to the east is the figure of the Egyptian
Isis; and in another small niche above are a Greek priest and priestess,
and the Egyptian Priapus. A greater proof than this I never saw of the
religion of the Egyptian and Greek nations united (see Plate 29). On the
south of this temple is a large pedestal of granite, formed by three
steps, which appears to have been erected for the purpose of supporting
some large statue or obelisk.
We proceeded with a fair wind to Wowobat; and the next day, the 31st of
August, brought us to Seboua. On our landing, the first thing that
attracted my notice was a propylæon, at a small distance from the Nile;
in the middle of which interval are two standing figures eleven feet
high. These form the entrance to an avenue of sphinxes with lions’
bodies and men’s heads, that leads to the propylæon, which is much
decayed. There is the usual entrance or gateway into the pronaos, at
each side of which are five pillars, with figures in the front of each,
not unlike those in the pronaos at Medinet Aboo. The wind has
accumulated a great quantity of sand, which has not only covered the
court, but closed the entrance to the adytum and the cella. From what I
could discover, after a close examination from the top part of this
temple, it deserved to be opened; but as my principal views were bent on
other objects, which I thought of greater importance, we continued our
voyage towards Deir. The country here is very barren, and few
habitations are to be seen any where.
Next day we arrived at Korosko. A few miles above this place the Nile
turns towards the north-west six miles, and as the wind blew mostly from
that quarter, we had it right against us, besides a very strong current,
for the Nile was nearly at its height. Though the day was very hot, the
night was exceedingly cold, considering the climate we were in. At this
place we found it very difficult to advance, for the wind still
continued strong ahead, and the sailors could not track the boat by
ropes on the shore, as the bank was covered with thorns and acacia
trees, so that it took us two days to reach the territory of Deir, where
the river resumes its course again to the south. From the trees I have
mentioned we gathered a little gum-arabic; and the Reis of the boat
caught some cameleons, which we intended to keep alive. They feed on
flies and boiled rice, and drink water; but they do not agree together
in confinement, for they bit off the tails and legs of each other. If
put into the water, they swell like bladders, and swim faster than they
can crawl on the ground. They generally live on palm-trees, and descend
in the evening to drink. We caught about thirty, but they all gradually
died. I saw a female full of eggs, of the size of large peas, eighteen
in number, all attached to the matrix.
The 5th of September brought us to Deir, the great capital of Lower
Nubia. The town consists of several groups of houses, built of earth
intermixed with stones. They are in general not higher than eight or ten
feet, a few excepted, which are the habitations of the Cacheffs of the
country. The town is close to the water-side. At the foot of the sloping
and rocky hill is a small temple; but I could not venture to go to see
it, as I observed we were closely watched. I went immediately to Hassan
Cacheff, who received me with an air of suspicion, and wanted to know
our business. I told him, that we ascended the Nile merely to seek for
antiquities, and that we wished to proceed as far as the Shellal, or
second cataract. This he said was impossible, for the people in the
upper country were at war with each other. He then ordered his mat to be
brought to him, seated himself close before the door of his house, and
invited me to sit also. The first question he put to me was, if I had
any coffee. I replied we had a little on board for our own use, but that
he was welcome to half of it. He next asked for soap, and I made the
same reply. Then he inquired if we had any tobacco. I told him we had
but a few pipes, and we would smoke it together; with which he was
exceedingly pleased. The next question was, if I had any powder. To
which I answered, that I had very little, and could not spare any. At
this he laughed, and put his hand on my shoulder, saying, “You are
English, and can make powder wherever you go.” I was glad that he
thought so, and deemed it prudent to leave him with this impression; but
I told him I did not come there either to make powder or to waste any.
By this time my Janizary had brought me some tobacco from on board; so
we began to smoke; and coffee of gargadan was served; but,
notwithstanding this, he said my sailors would not advance any farther,
for they were afraid to go into the upper country. I told him, that if
he gave me a letter to his brother Osseyn, we should be out of any
danger. I then showed him the letter of Calil Bey at Esne to his
brother: on which he observed, that this letter did not mention where I
was going. Perceiving that the affair was likely to proceed very
dilatorily, I frankly told him, if he meant to let me pursue my journey,
I would make him a very handsome present of a fine looking-glass, some
soap, and some coffee; on the contrary, if I were to return, he would
lose all, and incur the displeasure of the Bey of Esne besides. His
reply was, “We will talk of this to-morrow.” So I returned to our boat
without any positive answer.
Early in the morning I went to him again. When he asked me for the
looking-glass, I replied, that it was ready, if he gave me the letter to
his brother at Farras, which at last he did. Previous to our departure
from Cairo, I took occasion to obtain all the information possible
concerning the country of Nubia, from the natives who came to that city
with dates and charcoal; and from them I learned, that a looking-glass
and a few Venetian beads would be equal there to silver plate and
pearls. Accordingly we took a good stock with us, though I was not
certain of entering Nubia. The looking-glass I gave the Cacheff was
twelve inches long and ten broad, and was the largest the people there
had ever seen. It made a great impression on them. Many, who never came
down as far as Assouan, had not seen a looking-glass before, and it
astonished them greatly. The Cacheff was never tired of admiring his
bear-like face; and all his attendants behind him strove to get a peep
at their own chocolate beauty, laughing, and much pleased with it. The
Cacheff gave it, not without fear, to one of them, with a strict charge
to be careful not to break it.—On my way to our boat I met a very old
man, who knew Baram Cacheff, the tyrant of Deir in the time of Norden.
He said, that Baram died in his bed, but all his descendants were slain
by the Mamelukes; and that he was a boy when Baram died.
We left Deir about noon; and a few hours brought us to Hafee, where the
river flows from the south-west. The country all the way from Deir to
this place is tolerably productive of dhourra and dates, and furnishes
also a great deal of cotton, which is gathered, and sent to Cairo. The
sugar-cane is not cultivated here, which I know not whether to attribute
to the laziness of the natives, or to the country being too hot for that
plant; but I am inclined to think the former is the real cause.
Proceeding onward, we came to Ibrim. This place stands on a high rock,
nearly perpendicular, and forming the bank of the Nile. The town is
surrounded by a wall of sun-baked bricks. The houses are all in a ruined
state, having been uninhabited ever since the Mamelukes made it their
abode on their retreat to Dongola (see Plate 27). Close to the
water-side are several chambers, not unlike sepulchres, hewn out of the
rock; some of which have been painted, apparently by the Greeks, and
retain their colour remarkably well. The cultivated land on the south
side of the river in some parts extends not more than two hundred yards
in width; but it is thickly set with palm-trees, producing dates, which
are esteemed the best in Egypt, and in which the Nubians carry on a
considerable trade. The northern bank is quite barren, except a few date
and acacia trees.
In my voyage from Ibrim to the second cataract I must entreat the
reader’s indulgence. I noted down the names of all the villages we
passed, as they were given to me; and thus I lay them before the public,
as I am not aware, that they have been yet described by any traveller.
Messrs. Legh and Smelt, who were the first to penetrate to any extent up
this country by water, did not proceed beyond Ibrim; and Norden has
given a correct account of all the villages and districts he passed only
as far as Deir. Above a league above Ibrim we came to the village of
Vady Shubak on the east, and Mosmos on the west. The country on the east
continued to be covered with dates as far as Bostan, but on the west it
is quite a desert. From Toske we saw several rocks in the plain toward
the east, which resembled so many pyramids of various sizes; and I
should not wonder if these suggested to the Egyptians the first idea of
this form. Some of them appear to be about two hundred feet high.
We went on shore at Ermyne, on the west of the river. The banks here are
covered with the thorny acacia, tamarisks, and palm-trees, and some
cultivated ground. Next day we saw the island of Hogos. On this island
are the ruins of an ancient tower, which must have commanded the whole
Nile, as the river is not very wide here, and the island is exactly in
the centre of it. The blocks of stone are not so large as those in the
temples in Egypt, but they are well connected together. After this we
reached Formundy, a district extending on both sides of the Nile as far
as Saregg. At Formundy the river turns to the north-east, for two
leagues only; but we had as much trouble to pass this place as we had at
Korosko, the current and wind being both against us.
I cannot omit mentioning the hard labour these Barabra boatmen had on
this occasion. They were continually in the water; and, though good
swimmers, they had great trouble in wading against the current to pull
the rope from under the trees, which cover the banks in such a manner,
that it is impossible to track it along on the shore. They are a people
living very hardly, and eat any thing. They chew the rock salt, or
natron, mixed with tobacco, putting the mixture between the front teeth
and the lower lip. The natron is found in several parts of Egypt, and is
one of their articles of trade. The Laplanders are said to be very
filthy in their food, and I am sure these people are not unlike them in
that respect. When we killed a sheep, I had sometimes the pleasure of
seeing the entrails opened, pieces of which, dipped once into the water,
were eaten by them raw. The head and feet, with the skin on, wool,
hoofs, and all, were put into a pot, which is never washed, to be
half-boiled, when they drank the broth, and devoured the rest.
We fastened our bark to the shore in the district of Formundy, and I
mounted a high rock, to have a view of the country round. I found, on
the west of the Nile, an extensive plain, with low, isolated hills, in
the form of sugar-loaves, covered with black, smooth stones, something
approaching to basalt. Some of the stones are about five feet in length.
The country is every where barren; there are only a few date-trees near
the water.
Next morning we reached Faras, which we left on the east, and went to
see the temples of Ybsambul on the west. As we crossed the Nile exactly
opposite these temples, we had an opportunity of examining and having
full views of them at a distance (see Plate 42). In the front of the
minor temple are six colossal figures, which make a better appearance at
a distance than when near them. They are thirty feet high, and are hewn
out of the rock; as is also the large temple, which has one figure of an
enormous size, with the head and shoulders only projecting out of the
sand; and notwithstanding the great distance, I could perceive, that it
was beautifully executed. On the upper part or frieze of the temple was
a line of hieroglyphics, which covered the whole front; and above this,
a range of figures in a sitting posture, as large again as life. The
sand from the north side, accumulated by the wind on the rock above the
temple, and which had gradually descended towards its front, choked the
entrance, and buried two-thirds of it. On my approaching this temple,
the hope I had formed of opening its entrance vanished at once; for the
amazing accumulation of sand was such, that it appeared an impossibility
ever to reach the door. We ascended a hill of sand at the upper part of
the temple, and there found the head of a hawk projecting out of the
sand only to its neck. From the situation of this figure, I concluded it
to be over the door. From the size of the head, the figure must have
been more than twenty feet high; below the figure there is generally a
vacant space; so that, with the cornice over the door and the frieze, I
calculated, that the doorway could not be less than thirty-five feet
below the surface of the sand; and this distance would have accorded in
proportion with the front of the temple, which is one hundred and
seventeen feet wide. The sand ran down in a slope from one side to the
other, and to attempt to make an aperture straight through it to the
door would have been like making a hole in the water. It was necessary,
therefore, to remove the sand in such a direction, that it might fall
off from the front of the door: but in doing this the sand from above
would continue to fall on the place whence that below was removed, and
render it an endless task. Besides, the natives were wild people,
totally unaccustomed to such labour, and knew nothing of working for
money: indeed they were ignorant of money altogether. All these
difficulties seemed such insurmountable obstacles, that they almost
deterred me from the thought of proceeding: yet perseverance, stimulated
by hope, suggested to me such means, that at last, after much exertion
and two voyages thither, I had the satisfaction of entering the great
temple of Ybsambul.
Having taken a proper measurement of the front of the temple, and made a
calculation, I found, that, if I could persuade the people to work with
persevering steadiness, I might succeed in the undertaking. I did not
examine the small temple that night, as I wished early to reach the
village of Ybsambul, and to see Osseyn Cacheff. The rocks out of which
the temple is hewn continue for about two hundred yards southward, and
then open into a flat country, where are some good spots of cultivated
land, on the banks of the Nile, abounding with palm-trees. We embarked,
and soon landed at the village. I perceived a group of people assembled
under a grove of trees, who, when I came near them, seemed to be
somewhat surprised at the sudden arrival of a stranger. Having desired
to see Osseyn Cacheff, for some time I received no answer; but at last
was told, that he who sat there was Daoud Cacheff, his son. I saw a man
about fifty years of age, clad in a light blue gown, with a white rag on
his head as a turban, seated on a ragged mat, on the ground, a long
sword and a gun by his side, with about twenty men surrounding him, who
were well armed with swords, spears, and shields. A younger brother, of
much inferior rank and dignity, was among them, who behaved very roughly
towards me. Some had garments, others had none, and they altogether
formed a ragged assembly, by no means of most encouraging aspect. These
people have no other employment, than to gather the imposts of their
master from the poorer sort of natives. The Cacheff himself has nothing
to do but to go from one place to another to receive his revenue; and in
every place to which he goes he has a house and a wife. He is absolute
master to do what he pleases: there is no law to restrain him; and the
life of a man here is not considered of so much worth as that of a cat
among us. If he have not what he wants, he takes it wherever he can find
it: if refused, he uses force; if resisted, the opponent is murdered:
and thus the Cacheff lives.
They are not easily led by promises, for there is so little faith among
them, that what is not obtained is considered as imaginary. It was with
such a race of people I had to deal; and from whom I had to obtain
permission to penetrate into a place, and to carry on operations, the
thought of which appeared to them like that of a madman. To persuade
them to undertake work for money was still worse, as their only mode of
buying and selling is by bartering dhourra for dates, or dates for salt.
It will be recollected that Messrs. Legh and Smelt did not think proper
to go any higher than Ibrim, as it was useless to penetrate into a
country, where money was of little or no use, which in fact was the case
at that time at Deir, and much more so above that place. Daoud Cacheff
demanded of me what business brought me there. I told him I had a letter
from the Cacheff, his uncle, directed to Osseyn Cacheff, his father; and
that I came into the country in search of ancient stones. He laughed,
and said that a few months before he had seen another man, who came from
Cairo in search of treasure, and took away a great deal of gold in his
boat; and that I came for the same purpose, not to take stones: what had
I to do with stones, if it were not that I was able to procure gold from
them? I answered, the stones I wished to take away were broken pieces
belonging to the old Pharaoh people; and that by these pieces we were in
hopes of learning, whether our ancestors came from that country; which
was the reason of my coming in search of ancient stones. I thought this
might serve as a good explanation of the motives by which I was induced
to open the temple. He then asked where I meant to go in search of these
stones. I told him the place in the rock had a door, and by removing the
sand we could enter, and perhaps should find many stones there.
Accordingly I proposed to have the place opened; and on a promise, that,
if I succeeded, he should receive a bakshis, he consented on his own
part; but still his father remained to be persuaded, and then people to
be procured, who would work at such a place without fearing harm from
the devil. I told him, that those who worked would gain money. “What
money do you mean?” said he, “money from Mahomet Ali, Bashaw of Cairo?
what can we do with it? we cannot buy any thing here, or at Dongola.” I
said, the money may be sent to Assouan, and there dhourra could be
purchased with it. “But,” replied Daoud, “if we do so, they keep the
money, and send us no dhourra.” I could scarcely believe, that they had
so little faith, or notion of commerce: but the fact is, that what
produce they carry to Cairo, Siout, or Esne, they exchange for other
articles, which they send to the southern country of Nubia, and never
receive any money for it.
I produced a piastre, and showed it to some of the people, who by this
time had increased in number all round, seated themselves in form of a
crescent before us, and were staring me in the face, observing all my
motions. I went on endeavouring to persuade them of the advantages they
would derive from such money, if they introduced it into their country.
The Cacheff, however, seemed convinced, that it would do no good; for
then, he observed, the people who were not contented to stay in Nubia
could sell their cows and goats, and go and live in Egypt. I believe he
was right in this point; but it was certainly impolitic in him to make
such a remark before his subjects. One of them took the piastre from my
hands, and, after looking at it for some time, asked me who would give
any thing for that small piece of metal. “Any one,” I answered, “will
give you a measure of dhourra for it, quite enough for a man to eat in
three days.” “That may be so in your country,” replied he; “but here I
am sure no one will give six grains of dhourra for so small a bit of
iron.” I told him, if he went on board our boat, and presented it to any
one there, he would get for it dhourra enough to suffice him for the
time I had mentioned. Off he ran like a deer, and in a few minutes
returned with the dhourra folded in a rag fastened to his waist.
I had previously instructed the Reis of our boat what he had to do, if
any of the natives should come with money to fetch dhourra; and
accordingly he gave him the measure so ordered for a piastre. This
experiment had a good effect, not only on the minds of the people, but
also on that of the Cacheff; though, barbarianlike, he was not yet
thoroughly satisfied. He observed, that a man who laboured a whole day
ought to have four times that measure for his share; therefore, if I
would give them four piastres a day each, he would persuade the people
to work. At length, with much ado, I made a bargain for two piastres a
man. Daoud told me that a man who came there a few months before had
left in his hands three hundred piastres, to open that place for him;
but the people would not undertake the business, as no one cared for
such small pieces of metal. On the traveller’s return from Wady Haifa,
he expected to have found the place open; but Daoud gave him his pieces
of metal back again, as he did not know what to do with them. I found
afterwards, that the person who had been there was Mr. Drouetti, the
ex-consul of France in Egypt; and that in fact he received his money
back, as the people would not work for it.
The next and greatest difficulty was to persuade Osseyn Cacheff to let
us proceed; for without his consent nothing could be done. He lived at
Eshke, a day and a half up the Nile. That night we slept at Ybsambul, as
I wished to strengthen the disposition of the Cacheff in my favour.
Accordingly I sent him a measure of rice, about four pounds weight,
three ounces of coffee, half a pound of sugar, and a few leaves of a
particular sort of tobacco, called Tunny Djebel, from Syria, which the
Barabra chew, and consider it a great luxury.
In the evening we received on board some sour milk, and warm thin cake
of dhourra bread. This is baked on a flat stone, eighteen inches square,
raised from the ground by a small stone at each corner, so as to admit a
fire under it; and when it is at a certain degree of heat, the paste is
laid on it, which being quite soft, or nearly liquid, spreads in a sheet
all over the stone, and in one minute is firm enough to be turned, which
is done with great dexterity without breaking it. As soon as one is
baked, another is placed on the stone; and they are pretty good if eaten
while hot, but when cold they are quite sour and disagreeable. They are
generally eaten with sour milk; but if allowed to get cold they are
broken to pieces, put into a bowl, and boiled lentils poured on them.
This forms the general food of the country.