CHAPTER VIII

PRESENT CONDITION OF SARAWAK—RAJAH AN IRRESPONSIBLE

RULER—SARAWAK COUNCIL—GENERAL COUNCIL—RESIDENTS AND

TRIBUNALS—EMPLOYMENT OF NATIVES—AGRICULTURE—TRADE RETURNS—THE

GOLD REEFS—COAL DEPOSITS—VARIED POPULATION—IMPOLITIC SEIZURE OF

LIMBANG—MISSIONS—EXTRAORDINARY PANICS—REVENUE—ADMINISTRATION OF

JUSTICE—CIVIL SERVICE—ALLIGATORS—SATISFACTORY STATE OF SARAWAK

I have found materials for writing this chapter in the numbers of the

Sarawak _Gazette_, an official journal published once a month. I have

read its contents with great interest, as every district to which it

refers was once familiar to me, and I am able to trace clearly the

changes which have taken place since I left Borneo. I might rather

have used the word expansion, as in truth the changes have not been

so great as might have been expected.

The Government is carried on as it was in the old days. The Rajah is

_de facto_ an irresponsible ruler, though he can summon the Sarawak

Council to meet and advise him as to any new law, or any modification

to be made in the financial arrangements of the country; and I

understand that the Rajah always consults them on such occasions.

This Council is composed of the Rajah and two of the senior English

officers, and four native chiefs of Sarawak Proper. It was the Earl

Grey of 1855 who recommended its establishment to the old Rajah, and

it has proved itself exceedingly useful. Its first meetings took

place in 1856.

There is also a General Council composed of the chiefs of the various

districts under the rule of the Rajah, with a due proportion of

English officers. They assemble about once a year, to the number

of from forty to fifty. Though it is not often that business is

submitted to their deliberations, they are addressed by the Rajah

on subjects of general interest, and are afterwards invited to dine

at the Palace. It is a decided step in advance that this meeting of

native and European officers should take place, as it tends to efface

local prejudices, and to consolidate the Government. This General

Council was not summoned during the lifetime of Sir James Brooke,

though he often talked of doing so, and would have carried out his

intention had he lived.

The country is divided into five chief districts under English

Residents: Sarawak Proper, Batang Lupar, Rejang, Baram and Limbang.

In each of these there are also several assistants to look after

the management of the sub-districts. All these officers hold courts,

but there is an appeal from the findings of the junior officers

to the Resident of the district, and all very serious sentences

are ultimately referred to the capital for the Rajah’s decision

or approval. From the reports in the _Gazette_, I gather that

very substantial justice is administered. The notions of equity

entertained by some of the junior officers may be rather crude;

but the power of appeal enables anyone who is dissatisfied with a

sentence to refer the matter to the Resident, and the natives often

make use of this privilege with results satisfactory to themselves.

The Government of Sarawak is a kind of mild despotism, the only

government suitable to Asiatics, who look to their chief as the sole

depositary of supreme power. The influence of the old Rajah still

pervades the whole system, and native and European work together in

perfect harmony. Though the head of each district is an Englishman,

every effort is made to employ the natives in responsible positions,

as collectors of revenue, as judges with the Rajah or the Residents

in the superior courts, as sole judges in the native tribunals, which

try all cases where their religion or racial customs are affected,

and as chiefs of the different tribes and local communities, and, on

the whole, the results appear to be satisfactory.

The old Rajah used to write that the development of native states

must be slow in order to be permanent, and the development of

Sarawak has been very slow, slower than most people would have

expected, as the introduction of steamers on the coast pointed to

more rapid progress.

Agriculture is the mainstay of every Asiatic country. In the early

years of the old Rajah’s Government the natives only grew rice

sufficient for their own consumption, and the Chinese confined

themselves to a little gardening near their small settlements;

but when, in 1850, the Chinese flocked from Sambas into Sarawak,

Captain Brooke saw the necessity of encouraging as many as possible

of those accustomed to agriculture to settle on the fertile soil

near the river’s banks, and began by establishing colonies of these

industrious immigrants at places about eight miles above the capital,

at Sungei Tungah and Batu Kawa. These flourished until the year 1857,

when the Chinese insurrection interfered with their progress for a

time.

The financial distress which followed this great upheaval prevented

any further assistance being given to agriculturists, until, in

1875, the present Rajah, Sir Charles Brooke, determined to encourage

gambier planting, and this he followed up by introducing the

cultivation of pepper, coffee, including the Liberian variety, cocoa

and the oil palm. Of these coffee appears the most popular among

the Malays and Dyaks, who have carried its cultivation into most of

the districts of Sarawak, on a small scale, it is true, but as the

plants bear, and the returns come in, many more are now encouraged to

cultivate this useful shrub.

Only one English Planting Company tried its fortune in the country,

and this failed for want of capital to enable it to await results. In

1895, 500 cwts. of coffee were exported, whilst in 1896 the export

rose to 1483 cwts., nearly treble the amount, and there is every

probability that the annual produce will proportionally increase;

gambier rose from 26,250 cwts. in 1895 to 29,285 cwts. in 1896; and

pepper, a very valuable article, was exported in both years to the

amount of over 18,000 cwts. These three important cultivations were

introduced into the country by the present Rajah, and their products

were valued in 1895 at £46,820, and in 1896 at £44,082.

The planting of sago, an indigenous palm, has been much encouraged,

and the export of the manufactured flour in 1896 amounted to over

15,000 tons, of a value of about £70,000. A little tea is grown but

is not exported. There is no doubt that the Sarawak Government has

done much to encourage agriculture, but it has failed as yet to

attract European capital. I notice that lately the Borneo Company

has commenced to plant gambier. One of the causes of the failure

above referred to is, that European capitalists are not tempted by

the prospect of having their enterprises under the control of an

irresponsible ruler, however just and capable he may be, as all

might change on the advent of a successor. But they might reflect

that the Borneo Company have been carrying on their business for the

last forty years without any difficulties arising.

There are millions of acres in the Sarawak territory which are open

to European capitalists; hundreds of thousands of acres on the great

river of Rejang alone, where water carriage would be at their door,

and produce could be shipped direct to Europe, and that is only one

out of the many districts awaiting foreign enterprise.

It is curious that an agricultural population like that of Sarawak

does not grow sufficient rice for its own consumption. In 1896 it

had to import of this grain to the value of about £42,000. It is

true that only a portion of the population is really industrious—the

Chinese and the Seribas and Sakarang Dyaks. The former are otherwise

employed, whilst the latter devote much of their energy to the

collection of jungle produce. And yet in the district of Samarahan

alone sufficient rice might be cultivated to supply the whole country.

If we compare the trade returns of Sarawak for the years 1876 and

1896, and take only the dollar value, the increase is striking,

but if you turn the amounts into sterling the results are very

disappointing. In 1876 the exchange value of the dollar was four

shillings, whilst in 1896 it had fallen to two shillings only. This

depreciation of silver certainly aids those countries where the

dollar and rupee circulate by the great nominal augmentation of the

value of their produce, whilst it enhances the price of European

goods by a hundred per cent. when paid for in silver.

In 1876 Imports from Foreign Countries, £169,000

” 1896 ” ” 227,000

” 1876 Imports Coasting Trade, 94,000

” 1896 ” ” 142,000

” 1876 Exports to Foreign Countries, 186,000

” 1896 ” ” 242,000

” 1876 Exports Coasting Trade, 98,000

” 1896 ” ” 113,000

These figures may relate principally to the trade of Sarawak Proper,

as each of the large districts has a small direct trade with

Singapore, but the indications are to the contrary, as the coal

exported from Sadong is included in these returns, and the sago flour

from some at least of the out-stations.

The export of antimony has fallen off considerably, and cinnabar

has been nearly worked out. Jungle produce continues to be found in

large quantities, and gutta-percha, India rubber, rattans, beeswax

and timber considerably swell the trade returns; but coal and gold

are, I think, destined to develop Sarawak in a remarkable manner. The

Borneo Company, which until lately had not been able to invest much

capital in their operations on account of the difficulties attending

the first working of coal in Sarawak, as a result of the scarcity of

antimony and the gradual failure of the great deposits of cinnabar,

has now entered on a new phase of activity.

Gold has been known to exist for many years. Even on the arrival of

the first Rajah, the Chinese were working it on a small scale, but

only in the alluvial deposits. I was with the late Dr MacDougall,

Bishop of Sarawak, when, in 1854, he picked up a piece of quartz with

specks of gold distinctly visible in it, but it was not until many

years later that great reefs of gold-bearing quartz were discovered,

and although good results were obtained in the laboratory, the

industry could not then be worked on a commercial basis. Lately,

however, the Borneo Company has found that by the cyanide process it

can make the working of the stone pay, and it has now erected very

extensive and elaborate machinery, which, when in full operation,

will crush three hundred tons of quartz a day. This will be the

salvation of Sarawak, for there is no reason, if the working of

the present plant prove a mercantile success, why a dozen similar

establishments should not be erected, as the stone is practically

inexhaustible, the reefs having been traced for about thirty miles.

The latest reports from Sarawak show that the machinery is doing well

in the Company’s establishment at Bauh, and so satisfied are the

directors with the results that they are putting up a considerable

plant at Bidi, where the quartz is richer in quality. Both these

places are in the interior of Sarawak Proper.

The benefit to Sarawak will be twofold, as the Government is to

receive five per cent. of the gold produced, and large numbers of

Chinese, whom the Company finds can alone be relied on for regular

operations, must be imported to work the plant and quarry the stone.

The ‘farms’ and the import duties will benefit by this influx of

labour, and it may enable the Sarawak Government ultimately to

abolish all export duties on agricultural produce. We used to reckon

that each Chinaman on an average increased the revenue by two pounds

sterling per annum.

The washing for gold by the Chinese in the alluvial soil has not for

many years proved very productive; in fact, it has been thought that

the discontent of the Chinese, before the great insurrection of 1857,

arose partly from the fact that the gold workings did not pay, and

the coolies began to look with suspicion on the integrity of their

chiefs.

Coal, though worked for many years, produced at first no practical

results, but in 1896 nearly 23,000 tons were exported, and the amount

increased greatly during 1897 and 1898. This also must affect the

revenue both directly and indirectly in a very satisfactory manner.

The only factories which have proved successful in Sarawak are those

that produce sago flour. These will doubtless increase, as in many

places the natives have for several years past augmented their

plantations, and it is a cultivation which suits their indolent

habits, for after tending the young plants during the first year,

little or no care is subsequently given to the palm trees.

The population of Sarawak is very varied. In all its districts, with

the exception of the Milanau rivers and Baram, there is an indigenous

Malay population, who are born traders and fishermen, and only

cultivate as it were under protest, but they do grow a little rice, a

few rough vegetables, and lately some have made small coffee gardens.

As a rule they neglect the last, or overcrowd the plants with other

products.

In Sarawak, Samarahan and Sadong the interior is inhabited by Land

Dyaks, a very primitive race, who are, however, slowly advancing,

while some, as those in Samarahan, must be getting rich, as a

Resident reports seeing the girls dancing in silks and brocades,

with strings of silver dollars hanging round their waists. It was

a pleasure to read of this advance, as many previous accounts had

pointed to a great deterioration in their condition.

But the pride of Sarawak must always be the Sea Dyaks who live on the

Batang Lupar, the Seribas and the right-hand branches of the Rejang.

These were the destructive pirates of the coast, who put to sea in

large fleets of fast vessels, and ravaged every district they could

reach. When the expeditions of Captains Keppel and Farquhar had put

down their piracies at sea, and the land operations, principally

conducted by the present Rajah, then chief Resident on the Batang

Lupar, had subdued them in the interior, they began to look to other

fields of activity. Even as early as 1853 I sent a report home

about their energetic work in the antimony mines. Now, they are

the most industrious of the collectors of jungle produce, and have

spread wherever that is to be found, whether in the interior of the

Rejang, Baram, or Limbang districts. One hears of them also in the

territories of the British North Borneo Company, where they should

be welcome immigrants, not only on account of their industry, but of

their readiness to support the established Government. Owing to this

last amiable trait in their character they have been recalled by the

Sarawak Government under the penalty, in case of disobedience, of

being declared outlaws. This was a mistake, as they would be equally

useful to the North Borneo Company, which is combating lawlessness

as much as the Sarawak Government, and among a far more dangerous

population. In looking over my Sarawak correspondence I find that

they were accused of acting against the regulations of the Company,

particularly in the interior of Padas, but this appears to have

arisen from the foolish restrictions placed on the Dyaks and others

by the subordinate officers in that district, which were strongly

condemned by the Resident at Labuan, the late Mr Maxwell, a man of

remarkable intelligence and experience, the latter acquired when in

the Sarawak service.

These Sea Dyaks even ventured across the China Sea, and sought for

jungle produce throughout the Malay Peninsula, but I hear that they

also have been recalled, why or wherefore it is difficult even to

guess. In reading through these _Gazettes_, I have come across

references to a Dyak selling gutta-percha in Singapore for $1200; to

another having disposed of produce in the bazaar to the amount of

$1500; and to a prahu being swamped with $2000 worth of goods or cash

on board. These Dyaks are indeed a valuable population.

The next to be noticed are the Milanaus, who live at the mouths of

the rivers Rejang, Oya and Muka, and are apparently a race apart.

They are perhaps a little more industrious than the Malays, and

devote themselves to planting and roughly manufacturing sago. A

portion of this population has been converted to Mohammedanism,

whilst the rest cannot bring themselves to abandon pork.

In the far interior of the Rejang, the Bintulu, and all through the

Baram districts, are the numerous tattooed tribes, as the Kayans

and the Kineahs; the mongrel villagers called Kanowits; and the

wildest of wild tribes, the Punans and Pakatans. As yet none of these

tribes have made their mark either in the field of battle or in any

industry, except in the working of iron ores or their products, but

it is comparatively lately that they have come under the influence

of the English. The Sarawak Government appears to have a very

intelligent Resident in Baram, Mr Hose.

The Chinese will no doubt gradually fill up the different districts

of Sarawak, but the progress is slow. They do not seem to take kindly

to Borneo in general, probably because wages are low, the native

seldom receiving more than twenty-five cents or sixpence a day,

though the wages of the Chinese are doubtless considerably higher.

In many villages, however, where they are permitted to settle, you

will be sure to find Chinese shopkeepers, who carry on a thriving

trade. They have the reputation of not being very honest dealers, as

false weights are too often resorted to, in order to enable them to

pay a price nominally higher than the market rate, which renders fair

competition impossible. I could never understand why restrictions

were so often placed on their settlement among the interior tribes,

except where the Dyaks themselves objected to their presence. It is

true they are not very honest, but in my time we found the natives a

match for them in this line, as they used to insert stones into the

large lumps of gutta-percha. As might be expected from the low class

of Chinese who immigrate into Sarawak, the principal occupants of the

prisons are found among their ranks.

Limbang and Trusan, to the north of the Sultan’s capital, are the

latest acquisitions of Sarawak. They contain a mixed population of

Kadayans, Muruts and Bisayas, with no very marked characteristics.

I am loath to write anything which may appear as an adverse criticism

of the conduct of the present Rajah, with whom I have been friends

for over fifty years, but unless we are to adopt the principle that

‘the end justifies the means,’ it is difficult to approve the action

of Sarawak in seizing by force any part of the Sultan’s dominions.

A little gentle, persevering diplomacy would have secured Limbang

without violating any principle of international law. I am convinced,

however, that the present Rajah was deceived by someone as to the

political position of that district, as he wrote that, for four years

previous to his action, Limbang was completely independent of the

Sultan, which his officers subsequently found was not the case.

The Sultan is the Suzerain Lord of all the possessions of the present

Rajah, with the doubtful exception of Sarawak Proper, and Great

Britain is the Protector of Sarawak and Brunei alike, yet the Sarawak

_Gazette_, the official organ of its Government, thus refers to the

Brunei under British protection: ‘Brunei has long been a disgrace,

a blot on the map of Borneo. There murder and robbery thrive, and

criminals from all around find a refuge from the punishment merited

by their evil deeds, with the knowledge and sanction of the Sultan,

and under the protection of the British flag.’

To use an expressive, but not very elegant, phrase, the writer has

‘let the cat out of the bag.’ It is probably true that the British

Government would not permit Sarawak to seize Brunei and depose the

Sultan, but there are other and more peaceful means of putting an

end to Brunei, if it be the sink of iniquity described. Already the

Kadayans are taking up their permanent residence in Baram under the

Sarawak flag, and many Borneans and Kadayans are moving to Limbang;

while a certain number have already established themselves in Padas

under the flag of the North Borneo Company. By degrees the population

of the capital will completely disperse and settle in the surrounding

districts, and the capital will cease to exist as a centre of

authority.

That the inhabitants of Limbang rejoiced to be placed under the

protection of the Sarawak flag there can be no doubt. I knew them

well, and how they suffered from the exactions of the Pangerans

and their rapacious followers, and no one would have more rejoiced

than myself to hear they had been put under Sarawak rule in a less

forcible way. As poverty increased in Brunei, so had the exactions

augmented, and Limbang, being near, suffered the most. Perhaps some

of my readers may think that in this case ‘the end _did_ justify the

means.’ At all events, that appears to have been the view taken by

our own Foreign Office.

As far as I can judge from the notices in the Sarawak _Gazette_, and

from my private correspondence, neither the Missions nor education

have made much progress, though there are schools at the capital, and

both the Anglicans and the Roman Catholics have establishments in the

country. The Mission schools appear to educate from two to three

hundred pupils, but little is evidently done at the out-stations, and

the Dyaks in general are left to themselves, although at one time the

field appeared most promising. I fear that the explanation is that

the true missionary spirit is dead in our Church. It is no longer

looked upon as a field for talent, and those who would not pass

muster in an English parish are sent off to vegetate in a Bornean

out-station, where their influence is _nil_.

I notice it reported in a private letter that the Catholic Mission is

the more prosperous, as it appears to be well provided with money,

erects substantial buildings, and has a very competent staff.

How little the influence of European rule touches the inner life and

belief of the native, whatever may be his race! I remember being in

Singapore at the time the Government was building a new church, when

it was reported that the convicts were seizing people at night and

murdering them in order to bury their heads under the foundations

of the new building. A panic prevailed for a considerable time, and

natives only ventured out in strong parties. And this occurred in a

British settlement after our Government had been established there

over thirty years. I discussed this unaccountable panic with my

Chinese butler, who spoke English well, and had lived all his life in

European families. His only answer to my repeated questions was that

he hoped it was not true, that he did not know, but he understood

it was generally believed. Our missionaries in China have the same

experience.

Another intelligent native remarked that the English must have been a

barbarous race, as formerly they sacrificed a human victim every time

they prepared to take the sacrament, but that in more modern days

they had become more civilised, as they now only sacrificed dogs, a

reference to the periodical destruction in British settlements of all

stray animals. What a perverse interpretation of missionary teaching!

After fifty years of English rule in Sarawak a similar panic

occurred. I will quote the Sarawak _Gazette_ of September 1, 1894:

‘Some months back a most unaccountable scare took possession of the

Asiatic population of Sarawak Proper—Malays, Chinese, Dyaks and

others being similarly affected. It was at first rumoured that the

Government required human heads to place under the foundations of

the new high level reservoir at the waterworks, and that men were

sent out at night to procure these.... Other equally absurd stories

followed and were fully believed, many natives going so far as to

assert that they had met with these head hunters about the native

town at night. The people no longer ventured out after dark; coolies

whose work would preclude their return to their own homes at night

were unobtainable, not a boat could be obtained to cross the river

after dark, and the majority of persons whose business took them

further than the limits of the bazaar, carried arms.’

The entire article is too long to quote; the panic spread all along

the coast, invaded the Dutch territories, and found its way to the

furthest out-stations. Numerous murders were really committed, and

at first the natives were afraid to report them. Gradually, however,

people came to their senses, but only to fall into another panic,

on the ground that robbers were wandering under the Malay houses,

which are built on piles, and stabbing at the inmates from below.

A few deaths from this cause did, in fact, occur, which gave an

excuse for the alarm, and some ingenious thieves bored holes through

boxes resting on the floor and extracted their contents. It must be

remembered that these floors are not of planks, but of laths of the

nibong palm with interstices between them, and are generally covered

over with matting.

It is almost incredible that people who had been governed by the

old Rajah and his successor, and governed in the most benevolent

and generous manner for over fifty years, should have believed that

their rulers could be capable of seeking their heads to bury under

the foundations of the new waterworks. It appears as if there were no

common ground on which the intellect of the white and coloured races

can meet; they never understand us and we shall probably never fully

understand them.

Finance has never been the strong point of the Sarawak Government.

The Revenue in 1876 (Exchange 4s.) £36,636

” ” ” 1896 ( ” 2s.) 49,376

The treasurer’s financial statement for the year, 1896, is too full

of trivial details to be satisfactory, but the tables which are

published in the same number of the _Gazette_ enable one to form a

very clear idea of the financial state of the country.

The ‘farms’ are the most important source of revenue, and those that

are legitimate are the opium and spirit farms; the gambling farm

is no doubt suitable to the Chinese, and discourages play among

the Malays and Dyaks. But the objectionable farms are the pork,

the fish and the pawnbroking. The pork farm was abolished in 1896,

as it was found to restrict the supply of good meat, and raise its

price to the industrious Chinese labourer, who could only obtain an

inferior article, while it brought in but little to the revenue. The

Government slaughter-houses are as profitable, and do not interfere

so much with trade. The _Gazette_ notices that after the abolition of

this farm the supply of meat became more plentiful, and was of a much

finer quality, with a reduction in price. The fish market is equally

objectionable. The monopolists pay so poorly for the supply, that,

according to the _Gazette_, the fishermen earned less than fourpence

a day, whilst the price of fish was so raised that the Government

imposed a maximum; but this paternal measure did not answer, and

it was repealed. The fish farm should go the way of the pork farm.

There are also obvious objections to a pawnbroking farm. A system of

licenses would pay better, and be much less liable to abuse.

Though the export duties on agricultural produce are light, they are

unsound in principle, interfere with trade, and lessen the profit of

the industrious steady planter; and they only bring in about £2500

a year. It would be better to add to the list of imports subject to

duty. The probate duties are quite unsuited to a half or quarter

civilised people, and must render the Residents unpopular with the

best of the population. No sooner is the news received of the death

of a Dyak chief than the nearest English officer has to start off

to the spot to see that the Government dues are not evaded, and the

wages, or their equivalent, of the boat’s crew must often exceed the

amount received. There is another tax which checks what might become

a considerable industry—the duty on salt. This prevents any real

development of the extensive fisheries of the coast, as not only is

a necessary product taxed, but a duty is also raised on the exported

salted fish, which has thus to bear a double weight. A bounty might

be granted equivalent to the amount of the duty on the salt used. The

stamp duty has only lately been imposed, and may possibly be useful

in the administration of justice, but it will have to be worked with

very great caution.

If the Borneo Company succeed with their new gold working machinery,

and there is no apparent reason why they should not do so, the

increase in the revenues may enable the Rajah to do away with or

modify those taxes and duties, which impede commerce and hinder the

progress of the country. It must have been uphill work to carry on

the Government with revenues so inelastic.

When I first arrived in Sarawak I do not think the cattle exceeded

a dozen, and these were at a place about fourteen miles above the

capital, and were very much neglected. At present we find cattle at

every station, and English bulls are often imported to improve the

breed. The natives also in several districts have cattle of their

own, and under gentle pressure are paying more attention to them. I

do not remember that during my long residence in Sarawak we had beef

even once a year.

The Sarawak courts are not influenced by maudlin pity, and punish

by heavy fines all those who by carelessness, or any action of

their own, cause the death or wounding of any human being. Many

casualties are said to occur from men supposing that a noise in the

brushwood was caused by a wild beast, and firing at once and thus

slaying a fellow hunter; these never escape deserved punishment. The

setting of traps to kill pig or deer often caused the infliction of

injuries or even death on the unwary, and the setter suffered in

consequence. I wish this system of punishing wanton carelessness

were introduced into English practice. We might then hear of fewer

cases of criminally careless people presenting guns at their friends,

and, when a fatal result follows, saying glibly that they thought the

weapon was not loaded.

In outlying stations, the killing for the purpose of securing heads

would have been a very constant practice had not the present Rajah

sternly resolved to insist on the death penalty whenever the culprits

belonged to tribes who thoroughly understood the law; whilst upon

others who had but recently come under the sway of Sarawak, and were

still almost in the savage state, he was content to impose heavy

fines. This judicious administration of justice is having a very

salutary effect, and will gradually extinguish the evil.

It sounds curious to read of both parties in a case being fined, but

very often both are to blame in a greater or less degree, and are

punished in proportion. But what must have taxed a Resident’s gravity

was the hearing a case of two privates in the Sarawak Rangers,

accused of working a charm, in order to compass the death of an

ex-comrade, and fining the victim as well as the culprits.

The Rajah is kept well informed as to what passes throughout his

extensive territories, as he insists on the Residents and Assistant

Residents sending monthly reports of all occurrences in each of

their districts, and I understand that every one of them also keeps

a diary of events. This methodical system must be very useful to

the Government. The reports from Baram and Limbang are especially

interesting, and I could have wished them fuller.

For the information of those who may desire to enter the Sarawak

service, or are interested in the subject, I will mention the

salaries which were fixed from January 1, 1898. I may premise by

saying that I have taken the dollar to represent two shillings, the

exchange value, but that by no means represents its local value, as

prices and wages in dollars have not increased in anything like the

proportion of the fall in the exchange. In some cases wages do not

appear to have increased much since my time, when the dollar was

always worth more than four shillings.

MAXIMUM SALARIES IN STERLING.

Divisional Residents, £540 per annum.

With allowances from £120 to 240 ”

Treasurer, 480 ”

Second-Class Resident, 360 ”

Medical Officer in charge, 420 ”

Assistant Residents, 240 ”

Cadets on joining, 120 ”

Do., of one year’s standing, 144 ”

Postmaster, 360 ”

Police Inspector, 360 ”

The treasurer, second-class Residents and medical officer have also

allowances, the amount of which is not stated; military commandant,

etc., according to respective agreements. Of course, to turn these

salaries into dollars you have only to multiply by ten.

The terms for furlough pay are very liberal, leave being generally

granted on full pay, and the dollar valued at four shillings.

Pensions are given, after thirty years’ service, at the same rate of

exchange, half pay for life—furloughs in Europe not included.

I have remarked before how difficult it is to induce English ladies

to associate with natives, but I have heard that the Ranee, Lady

Brooke, has been in the habit of visiting the Malay ladies and

receiving their visits in return, and I noticed in one of the

_Gazettes_ that Mrs Maxwell, the wife of the late chief Resident,

gave an elaborate picnic to the daughters of the principal Malays.

This is as it should be, and must have a good effect. It is

interesting to read that cricket has been introduced among the native

lads, and that some of them take to it with zest.

I have noticed an occasional remark in the _Gazette_ on the hostility

displayed by Singapore towards Sarawak. That there was in Sir James

Brooke’s time a great jealousy both of Sarawak and Labuan there

can be no doubt. It was founded on a foolish idea that these two

places might become centres of independent trade with Europe to the

detriment of Singapore. The far-seeing knew that it would not be so,

and that instead of being rivals they would become feeders of our

great free-trade port, but it would seem that among a few of the

narrow-minded this jealousy still exists.

Among the dangers to life in Sarawak are the crocodiles or

alligators. Some naturalists declare that one of the two species—I

believe the latter—is not found in Asia, but I think that those who

have had the measurement of those reptiles, to estimate the amount

of reward for their destruction, must have noticed that there are

apparently two species—one very broad in the head, the other very

long and narrow. It is true we never examined their teeth, by which

we might have distinguished them. It is said on good authority that

there is a third species only found in fresh water, living for

preference in the deep pools of the far inland reaches of the rivers.

Sir Hugh Low saw them in the interior of the Rejang, and I often

heard of them in Sarawak. I remarked to a native chief that it was

curious that this species should have fixed its habitat away from the

deep water. ‘Not more curious,’ he answered, ‘than seeing you white

men in Borneo.’

Whatever the true name of these brutes may be, the destruction of

life traceable to them is considerable. They seize people bathing

on the banks of rivers, catch unwary children, and snatch people

from their canoes. They will often swim on the surface of the water

with their victims in their mouths, and the _Gazette_ mentions one

instance where the alligator appeared with the body on the second

day. As they are called alligators in Borneo, I will not change their

name.

Many a tale of quiet heroism may be told connected with these

attacks. One day a mother and daughter were paddling up the Linga

river, when the former was snatched from the boat by an alligator.

It did not attempt to sink with its victim, which gave time to the

daughter to spring on its neck, and, leaning forward, she gouged out

the eyes of the reptile, which instantly let go the mother and dived

to the bottom of the stream. I have known of several instances of

these heroic attempts to save relations.

There was an alligator which created a panic among all those who had

to pull by the entrance of the Siol stream on the Sarawak river, so

many had been its victims. It was ultimately taken, and measured, it

is said, over twenty-four feet in length.

When I was living in Brunei a similar panic occurred. So many people

were snatched from their boats that there was talk of a crusade being

undertaken against the alligator which caused it. But as that did not

come off, I proposed to my six boatmen that we should attempt the

destruction of the brute. I armed my men with muskets, and I took for

my own use a Minié rifle. We arranged that I should have first shot,

and if I missed, they were to fire a volley at the enemy. We pulled

down quietly to the haunted spot, and then floated with the stream.

We had not been there many minutes when my head man said, ‘There he

is.’ I looked round, and all I could see were a pair of prominent

eyes, a broad forehead and a streak of its back. It was coming at us

with all its speed. I waited until it was within about twenty-five

yards, and then fired. The heavy ball struck it between the eyes,

then bounded off, and fell into the water many a yard away. There

was great commotion as the alligator dived beneath the surface. My

men, who had wonderfully sharp eyes, said that the bullet had torn

the skin off the forehead, and that the beast must die, as the worms

with which these waters swarm would get into the wound. A week or

two subsequently, some fishermen told me they had seen an immense

alligator, at least twenty feet in length, lying on the mud bank of

a small stream. All the flesh on its head and neck was rotting away,

and it was evidently nearly dead, as it scarcely moved on their

approach. At all events, the man-eater never appeared again. The

largest alligator which I ever measured myself was only seventeen

feet six inches long, but Sir Hugh Low tells me that he has himself

measured one which touched twenty-six feet in length.

I think it highly probable that hunger has driven the alligators

to be as aggressive as they have been during the last few years.

When the rinderpest was killing cattle in the Malay Peninsula,

some similar disease attacked the wild pigs, and they died by

hundreds. About the same time a like mortality occurred in Borneo.

The principal food of the alligator is the wild pig, which is taken

whilst swimming across the rivers in search of jungle fruits. When

the pest occurred this supply of pork was much lessened, and the

alligators became more voracious.

The wild animals in Sarawak must be rapidly disappearing as

cultivation and population increase, and also as a ready market is

found for venison. Wild pig and various species of deer are the only

animals which were ever plentiful in Sarawak. In its last acquired

districts, however, such as Baram and Limbang, there are large herds

of wild cattle—splendid beasts.

This account of the present condition of Sarawak I feel to be very

meagre, but I have been unable to obtain any information except from

the _Gazette_, which, being written for a special purpose, only

enters into the minor details required to keep the superior officers

informed of what is passing in the interior and at the out-stations.

If the old Rajah could see the present state of his adopted country,

he would have every reason to be proud of the results of his work,

for although it has not become what he hoped—a second Java—it is

progressing. As the present Rajah, Sir Charles Brooke, was brought

up to his work under the old influences, he has carried out the

views and projects of his uncle in a very satisfactory manner, and

it is only to be hoped that whenever his son may succeed him he may

be thoroughly imbued with those traditions which have secured the

success of one of the most striking enterprises of modern times.

The old Rajah relied entirely for his position in Borneo on the

support of the natives themselves, and the present Rajah does nearly

the same.[12] They both had a corps of English officers (civilians)

to aid them in governing the country, but the military forces are

purely native, and these also constitute the bulk of the civilian

employés, from the Datus, those valued members of the Supreme

Council, to the humblest policeman. The more one reflects on the

subject the more one is disposed to admire the system which has

produced a unique Government, the like of which has never been seen

before. But whilst we admire the system introduced by the old Rajah,

we must not forget those who have so admirably carried it out, at

the head of whom is the present Rajah, with his staff of trustworthy

assistants.

FOOTNOTES:

[Footnote 12: There are now a few Sikh police.]

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