They continue to call this church an Abbey, just as they continue to

profess their belief in the most holy Sacrament. Originally it was the

second religious establishment in the island; and, since Glastonbury has

been desecrated and destroyed, is now the first. Lucius, the first

Christian king of the Britons, founded it, to be the burial-place of

himself and his successors. During the persecution of Diocletian, it was

converted into a temple of Apollo, which Sebert, king of the East

Saxons, demolished, and built a church to the honour of God and St Peter

in its stead. The place where it stands was then called Thorney, and is

said in a charter of king Edgar’s to have been a dreadful place; not so

much, it is supposed, on account of its rudeness, as because the wicked

spirits who were there worshipped had dominion there. St Augustine, the

apostle of the Saxons, had baptized Sebert and his queen Ethelgoda; and,

being unable to remain with them himself, consigned the care of his

converts to St Mellitus, a Roman abbot, whom pope St Gregory the Great

had sent to his assistance, and whom he consecrated bishop of London.

This holy bishop was to consecrate the new building; but on the night

before the ceremony was to be performed, a fisherman, as he was about to

cast his nets in the river, which runs within a stone’s throw of the

Abbey, was called to by one upon the opposite bank, who desired to cross

in his boat. The fisherman accordingly wafted him over, little knowing,

sinful man, how highly he was favoured, for this was the blessed apostle

St Peter. As soon as the saint landed he entered the church, and

immediately a light brighter than the midday sun illuminated it, and the

fisherman, almost bereft of his senses by fear, saw a multitude of

angels enter, and heard heavenly music within, and perceived odours far

more delicious than any earthly fragrance. In this state of terror St

Peter found him when he came out of the church, and cheered him, and

desired to be taken back in the boat. When they were in the middle of

the river, the saint told him to cast his net. He did so, and the

draught of fish was prodigious. Among them was one large salmon: St

Peter bade him take this to St Mellitus, and keep the rest as his fare,

and added that he and his children after him should always be prosperous

in their employment, provided that they paid scrupulously the tithe of

what they took, and never attempted to fish upon the Sabbath day. He

bade him likewise tell the bishop all that he had seen, and that St

Peter himself had consecrated the church, and promised often to visit

it, and to be present there at the prayers of the faithful. In the

morning, as St Mellitus was going in procession to perform the ceremony,

the fisherman met him, presented the fish, and delivered the message.

The appearance of the church as soon as the doors were opened fully

verified his story. The pavement was marked with Greek and Latin

letters; the walls anointed in twelve places with holy oil; the twelve

tapers upon twelve crosses still burning, and the aspersions not yet

dry. That further testimony might not be wanting, the fisherman

described the person whom he had seen to St Mellitus, and the

description perfectly agreed with the authentic picture of the apostle

at Rome.

I need not tell you that this miracle is suppressed by the heretical

historians who have written concerning this building. It is their custom

either to speak of such things with a sarcasm, or to omit them

altogether, taking it for granted, that whatever they in their wisdom do

not believe, must be false; as if it were not of importance to know what

has been believed, whether it be true or not, and as if individual

opinion was to be the standard of truth.

During the ravages of the Danes the abbey fell to decay. King St Edward

the Confessor rebuilt it upon a singular occasion. This pious prince had

made a vow to God during his exile, that if ever he should be restored

to the kingdom of his forefathers, he would make a pilgrimage to Rome,

and return his thanks at the throne of St Peter. His subjects besought

him not to leave them in performance of this vow, but to beg a

dispensation from it; and this the pope granted on condition that he

should build a new monastery to St Peter’s honour, or rebuild an old

one. At the same time it was revealed to a holy man, that it was God’s

pleasure to have the abbey at Westminster rebuilt. The king obeyed this

divine intimation, and gave the full tithe of all his possessions to the

work. The tomb of this third founder still remains: having been a king,

he escaped some of the insults which were committed against the other

English saints at the time of the schism; and though his shrine was

plundered, his body was suffered to remain in peace. But though the

monument was thus spared from the general destruction, it has been

defaced by that spirit of barbarous curiosity, or wanton mischief, for

which these people are so remarkable.

The high altar is of Grecian architecture. I ought to observe that in

these _reformed_ churches, there is but one altar; and if it had not

been for an archbishop whose head they cut off because they thought him

too superstitious, they would have been without any altar at all. The

mixture of these discordant styles of architecture has the worst effect

imaginable; and what is still more extraordinary, this mark of bad taste

is the production of one of the ablest architects that England ever

produced, the celebrated Sir Christopher Wren. But in his time it was so

much the fashion to speak with contempt of whatever was Gothic, and to

despise the architecture of their forefathers, that, if the nation could

have afforded money enough to have replaced these edifices, there would

not now have been one remaining in the kingdom.—Luckily the national

wealth was at that time employed in preserving the balance of power and

extending commerce, and this evil was avoided. Since that age, however,

the English have learned better than to treat the Gothic with contempt;

they have now discovered in it so much elegance and beauty, that they

are endeavouring to change the barbarous name, and, with feeling

partiality to themselves, claim the invention for their own countrymen:

it is therefore become here an established article of Antiquarian faith

to believe that this architecture is of native growth, and accordingly

it is denominated English architecture in all the publications of the

Antiquarian Society. This point I am neither bound to believe, nor

disposed at present to discuss.

This Abbey is a curious repository of tombs, in which the progress of

sculpture during eight centuries may be traced. Here may be seen the

rude Saxon monument; the Gothic in all its stages, from its first

rudiments to that perfection of florid beauty which it had attained at

the Schism, and the monstrous combinations which prevailed in the time

of Elizabeth, equally a heretic in her heterogeneous taste and her

execrable religion. After the great rebellion, the change which had

taken place in society became as manifest in the number as in the style

of these memorials. In the early ages of Christianity, only saints and

kings, and the founders of churches were thought worthy of interment

within the walls of the house of God; nobles were satisfied with a place

in the Galilee, and the people never thought of monuments: it was enough

for them to rest in consecrated ground; and so their names were written

in the Book of Life, it mattered not how soon they were forgotten upon

earth. The privilege of burial within the church was gradually conceded

to rank and to literature; still, however, they who had no pretensions

to be remembered by posterity were content to be forgotten. The process

may satisfactorily be traced in the church whereof I am now writing, and

thus far it had reached at the time of the Great Rebellion; during that

struggle, few monuments were erected; they who would have been entitled

to them were mostly on the unsuccessful side, and the conquerors had no

respect for churches; instead of erecting new tombs, their delight was

to deface the old. After the Restoration the triumph of wealth began.

The iron age of England was over, and the golden one commenced. An

English author has written an ingenious book, to show that the true

order of the four ages is precisely the reverse of that in which the

poets have arranged them: the age in which riches are paramount to every

thing may well be denominated the golden, but it remains to be proved

whether such an age of gold be the best in the series. With the

Restoration, however, that golden age began. Money was the passport to

distinction during life, and they who enjoyed this distinction were

determined to be remembered after death, as long as inscriptions in

marble could secure remembrance. The church walls were then lined with

tablets; and vain as the hope of thus perpetuating an ignoble name may

appear, it has succeeded better than you would imagine; for every

county, city, and almost every town in England has its particular

history, and the epitaphs in the churches and church-yards form no

inconsiderable part of their contents.

The numerous piles of marble which deface the Abbey are crowded

together, without any reference to the style of the building or the

situation in which they are placed; except two which flank the entrance

of the choir, and are made ornamental by a similarity of form and size,

which has not confined the artist in varying the design of each. One

bears the great name of Newton: he is represented reclining upon a

sarcophagus; above him is Astronomy seated in an attitude of meditation

on a celestial globe. This globe, which certainly occupies so large a

space as to give an idea of weight in the upper part of the monument,

seems principally placed there to show the track of the comet which

appeared, according to Newton’s calculation, in the year 1680. On a

tablet in the side of the sarcophagus is an emblematic representation,

in relief, of some of the purposes to which he applied his philosophy.

The inscription concludes curiously thus,

Sibi gratulentur mortales

Talem tantumque extitisse

Humani Generis Decus.

The corresponding monument is in memory of the Earl of Stanhope, as

eminent a warrior and statesman as Newton had been a philosopher. He is

represented in Roman armour, reposing on a sarcophagus also, and under a

tent; on the top of which a figure of Pallas seems at once to protect

him, and point him out as worthy of admiration. Both these were designed

by an English artist, and executed by Michael Rysbrack.

England has produced few good sculptors; it would not be incorrect if I

should say none, with the exception of Mr Banks, a living artist, whose

best works are not by any means estimated according to their merit. I

saw at his house a female figure of Victory designed for the tomb of a

naval officer who fell in battle, as admirably executed as any thing

which has been produced since the revival of the art. There were also

two busts there, the one of Mr Hastings, late viceroy of India, the

other of the celebrated usurper Oliver Cromwell, which would have done

honour to the best age of sculpture. Most of the monuments in this

church are wholly worthless in design and execution, and the few which

have any merit are the work of foreigners.

One of the vergers went round with us; a man whose lank stature and

solemn deportment would have suited the church in its best days. When

first I saw him in the shadow he looked like one of the Gothic figures

affixed to a pillar; and when he began to move, I could have fancied

that an embalmed corpse had risen from its cemetery to say mass in one

of the chauntries. He led us with much civility and solemnity to Edward

the Confessor’s chapel, and showed us there the tomb of that holy king;

the chairs in which the king and queen are crowned; the famous

coronation stone, brought hither from Scotland, and once regarded as the

Palladium of the royal line; and in the same chapel certain waxen

figures as large as life, and in full dress. You have heard J— mention

the representation of the Nativity at Belem; and exclaim against the

degenerate taste of the Portuguese, in erecting a puppet-show among the

tombs of their kings. It was not without satisfaction that I reminded

him of this on my return from Westminster Abbey, and told him I had seen

the wax-work.

The most interesting part of the edifice is the chapel built by Henry

VII. and called by his name. At the upper end is the bronze tomb of the

founder, surrounded by a Gothic screen, which was once richly ornamented

with statues in its various niches and recesses, but most of these have

been destroyed. The whole is the work of Torregiano, an Italian artist,

who broke Michel Angelo’s nose, and died in Spain under a charge of

heresy. Since the reign of Elizabeth, no monument has been erected to

any of the English sovereigns: a proof of the coldness which their

baneful heresy has produced in the national feeling. A plain marble

pavement covers the royal dead in this splendid chapel, erected by one

of their ancestors. No one was here to be interred who was not of the

royal family: Cromwell, however, the great usurper, whose name is held

in higher estimation abroad than it seems to be in his own country, was

deposited here with more than royal pomp. It was easier to dispossess

him from the grave than from the throne; his bones were dug up by order

of Charles II. and gibbeted: poor vengeance for a father dethroned and

decapitated, for his own defeat at Worcester, and for twelve years of

exile! The body of Blake, which had been laid with merited honours in

the same vault, was also removed, and turned into the church-yard: if

the removal was thought necessary, English gratitude should at least

have raised a monument over the man who had raised the English name

higher than ever admiral before him.

One thing struck me, in viewing this church, as very remarkable. The

monuments which are within reach of a walking-stick are all more or less

injured, by that barbarous habit which Englishmen have of seeing by the

sense of touch, if I may so express myself. They can never look at any

thing without having it in the hand, nor show it to another person

without touching it with a stick, if it is within reach; I have even

noticed in several collections of pictures exposed for sale, a large

printed inscription requesting the connoisseurs not to touch them.

Besides this odd habit, which is universal, there is prevalent among

these people a sort of mischievous manual wit, by which mile-stones are

commonly defaced, directing-posts broken, and the parapets of bridges

thrown into the river. Their dislike to a passage in a book is often

shewn by tearing the leaf, or scrawling over the page, which differs

from them in political opinion. Here is a monument to a Major André, who

was hanged by Washington as a spy: the story was related in relief: it

had not been erected a month before some person struck off Washington’s

head by way of retaliation; somebody of different sentiments requited

this by knocking off the head of the major: so the two principal figures

in the composition are both headless! From such depredations you might

naturally suppose that no care is taken of the church, that stalls are

set up in it, that old women sell gingerbread nuts there, and porters

make it a thoroughfare, as is done in Hamburgh. On the contrary, no

person is admitted to see the Abbey for less than two shillings; and

this money, which is collected by twopences and sixpences, makes part of

the revenue of the subordinate priests in this reformed church. There is

a strange mixture of greatness and littleness in every thing in this

country: for this, however, there is some excuse to be offered; from the

mischief which is even now committed, it is evident that, were the

public indiscriminately admitted, every thing valuable in the church

would soon be destroyed.

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LETTER XXIV.

_Complexion of the English contradictory to their historical

Theories.—Christian Names, and their Diminutives.—System of

Surnames.—Names of the Months and Days.—Friday the unlucky Day.—St

Valentine.—Relics of Catholicism._

The prevalence of dark hair and dark complexions among the English is a

remarkable fact in opposition to all established theories respecting the

peoplers of the Island. We know that the Celts were light or red-haired,

with blue eyes, by the evidence of history; and their descendants in

Wales, and Ireland, and Scotland, still continue so. The Saxons, and

Angles, and Danes, were of the same complexion. How is it then that the

dark eyes and dark hair of the south should predominate? Could the Roman

breed have been so generally extended, or, did the Spanish colony spread

further than has been supposed? Climate will not account for the fact;

there is not sun enough to ripen a grape; and if the climate could have

darkened the Danes and Saxons, it would also have affected the Welsh;

but they retain the marked character of their ancestors.

The proper names afford no clue; they are mostly indigenous, and the

greater number of local derivation. Of the baptismal names the main

proportion are Saxon and Norman; John, Thomas, and James, are the only

common apostolical ones; others indeed occur, but it is rather unusual

to meet with them. The Old Testament has furnished a few; Hagiology

still fewer. Among the men, William and John predominate; Mary and Anne,

among the women. In the northern provinces I am told that the Catholic

names Agnes and Agatha are still frequent; and, what is more

extraordinary, our Spanish Isabel, instead of Elizabeth.

Even these little things are affected by revolutions of state and the

change of manners, as the storm which wrecks an Armada turns the village

weathercock. Thus the partisans of the Stuarts preferred the names of

James and Charles for their sons; and in the democratic families you now

find young Alfreds and Hampdens, Algernons and Washingtons, growing up.

Grace and Prudence were common in old times among the English ladies; I

would not be taken literally when I say that they are no longer to be

found among them, and that Honour and Faith, Hope and Charity, have

disappeared as well. The continental wars introduced Eugene, and

Ferdinand, and Frederick, into the parish registers; and since the

accession of the present family you meet with Georges, Carolines, and

Charlottes, Augustuses and Augustas. The prevailing appetite for novels

has had a very general effect. The manufacturers of these precious

commodities, as their delicate ears could bear none but vocal

terminations, either rejected the plain names of their aunts and

grandmothers, or clipped or stretched them till they were shaped into

something like sentimental euphony. Under their improving hands, Lucy

was extended to Louisa, Mary to Marianne, Harriet to Henrietta, and

Elizabeth cut shorter into Eliza. Their readers followed their example

when they signed their names, and christened their children. Bridget and

Joan, and Dorothy and Alice, have been discarded; and while the more

fantastic went abroad for Cecilia, Amelia, and Wilhelmina, they of a

better taste recurred to their own history for such sweet names as Emma

and Emmeline.

The manner in which the English abbreviate their baptismal names is

unaccountably irregular. If a boy be christened John, his mother calls

him Jacky, and his father Jack; William in like manner becomes Billy or

Bill; and Edward, Neddy or Ned, Teddy or Ted, according to the gender of

the person speaking: a whimsical rule not to be paralleled in any other

language. Mary is changed into Molly and Polly; Elizabeth into Bessy,

Bess, Betty, Tetty, Betsy, and Tetsy; Margaret into Madge, Peggy, and

Meggy; all which in vulgar language are clipt of their final vowel, and

shortened into monosyllables. Perhaps these last instances explain the

origin of these anomalous mutations. Pega and Tetta are old English

names long since disused, and only to be found in hagiological history;

it is evident that these must have been the originals of the diminutives

Peggy, and Tetty or Tetsy, which never by any process of capricious

alteration can be formed from Margaret and Elizabeth. The probable

solution is, in each case, that some person formerly bore both names,

who signed with the first, and was called at home by the second,—thus

the diminutive of one became associated with the other: in the next

generation one may have been dropt, yet the familiar diminutive

preserved; and this would go on like other family names, in all the

subsequent branchings from the original stock. In like manner, Jacques

would be the root of Jack; Theodore or Thaddeus, of Teddy; Apollonia of

Polly; and Beatrice of Betty. A copious nomenclature might explain the

whole.

During the late war it became a fashion to call infants after the

successful admirals,—though it would have been more in character to have

named ships after them: the next generation will have Hoods and Nelsons

in abundance, who will never set foot in the navy. Sometimes an

irreverent species of wit, if wit it may be called, has been indulged

upon this subject; a man whose name is Ball has christened his three

sons, Pistol, Musket, and Cannon. I have heard of another, who, having

an illegitimate boy, baptized him Nebuchadnezzar, because, according to

a mode of speaking here, he was to be sent to grass, that is, nursed by

a poor woman in the country.

The system of proper names is simple and convenient. There are no

patronymics, the surname never changes, and the wife loses hers for that

of her husband. This custom has but lately established itself in Wales,

where the people are still in a state of comparative barbarism. There

the son of John Thomas used to be Thomas Johns, and his son again John

Thomas; but this has given way to the English mode, which renders it

easy to trace a descent. The names in general, like the language, though

infinitely less barbarous than the German, are sufficiently uncouth to a

southern eye, and sufficiently cacophonous to a southern ear.

The months are called after the Latin as with us, and differ rather less

from the original, as only the terminations are altered. But the days of

the week keep the names given them by the Saxon Pagans: _Lunes_ is

Monday or the day of the Moon; _Martes_, Tuesday or Tuisco’s day;

_Miércoles_, Wednesday or Woden’s day; _Jueves_, Thursday or Thor’s day;

_Viernes_, Friday or Frea’s day; _Sábado_, Saturday or Surtur’s day;

_Domingo_, Sunday or the day of the Sun. Saturday indeed is usually

deduced from _Dies Saturni_; but it is not likely that this Roman deity

should have maintained his post singly, when all the rest of his fellows

were displaced.

Friday, instead of Tuesday, is the unlucky day of the English, who are

just as superstitious as we are, though in a different way. It is the

common day of execution, except in cases of murder; when, as the

sentence is by law to be executed the day after it is pronounced, it is

always passed on Saturday, that the criminal may have the Sabbath to

make his peace with Heaven. I could remark more freely upon the

inhumanity of allowing so short a respite, did I not remember the worse

inhumanity of withholding the sacrament from wretches in this dreadful

situation. No person here is ever married on a Friday; nor will the

sailors, if they can possibly avoid it, put to sea upon that day: these

follies are contagious; and the captains, as well as the crew, will

rather lose a fair wind than begin the voyage so unluckily. Sailors, we

know, are every where superstitious, and well may they be so.

If it rains on St Swithin’s, they fancy it will rain every day for the

next forty days. On St Valentine’s it is believed that the birds choose

their mates; and the first person you see in the morning is to be your

lover, whom they call a Valentine, after the saint. Among the many odd

things which I shall take home, is one of the pieces of cut paper which

they send about on this day, with verses in the middle, usually

acrostics, to accord with the hearts, and darts, and billing doves

represented all round, either in colours or by the scissars. How a saint

and a bishop came to be the national Cupid, Heaven knows! Even one of

their own poets has thought it extraordinary.

Bishop Valentine

Left us examples to do deeds of charity;

To feed the hungry, clothe the naked, visit

The weak and sick, to entertain the poor,

And give the dead a Christian funeral.

These were the works of piety he did practise,

And bade us imitate; not look for lovers

Or handsome images to please our senses.

The heretics, you see, need not ridicule us for bleeding our horses on

St Stephen’s, and grafting our trees on the day of the Annunciation.

Many other traces of the old religion remain in the calendar, and indeed

every where, but all to as little purpose. Christ_mas_, Candle_mas_,

Lady-day, Michael_mas_; they are become mere words, and the primary

signification utterly out of mind. In the map you see St Alban’s, St

Neot’s, St Columb’s, &c. The churches all over the country are dedicated

to saints whose legends are quite forgotten, even upon the spot. You

find a statue of King Charles in the place of Charing-Cross, one of the

bridges is called Black-Friars, one of the streets the Minories. There

is a place called the Sanctuary, a Pater-Noster-Row, and an

Ave-Maria-Lane. Every where I find these vestiges of Catholicism, which

give to a Catholic a feeling of deeper melancholy, than the scholar

feels amid the ruins of Rome or Athens.

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LETTER XXV.

_Vermin imported from all Parts.—Fox-Hunting.—Shooting.—Destruction of

the Game.—Rural Sports._

Letters from England, Volume 1 (of 3) · 第 10 / 14 段