DETAILS OF CONSTRUCTION, SHOWING AN APPARATUS FOR MARKING THE LENGTH
AND CUTS OF BALUSTERS AROUND THE CIRCULAR PARTS.
Fig. 1 shows part plan of stairs for a side wreath starting from a
newel. The farther out the newel stands, within reason, the better will
be the appearance, provided it does not obstruct the passage in any way.
Fig. 2 shows the construction of the curved steps. Let the pieces
marked A be in two pieces, as shown, glued and screwed together,
with the grain crossing each other as much as possible. The riser is
reduced, as shown, as far as the work goes, to within about 3 inches
of the end, as shown by B. The little piece of straight on the face
of riser at B can be cleaned off in continuation of the curve after
it is glued up. Screw through the blocks into the end of riser at B,
then bend the veneer around, put on hand-screws to hold the riser and
block together while wedging, and before removing the hand-screws put
in the screws as shown. The scotia is screwed to the under side of
the tread, and holes bored in the bottom edge of riser so as to get a
screw-*driver in, and screw the riser on from the bottom, the screws
going through the scotia into the tread.
Fig. 3 shows the block for a curtail step. The step is struck from the
same centres as the handrail, which is explained on plate. The block is
got out in three thicknesses; the grain of two pieces can run in the
same direction as the riser, and the middle pieces in the direction of
S S. The balusters will regulate the size of the block, as shown. This
step is constructed on the same principle as Fig. 2, the scotia being
in the solid. The nosing will be worked on the tread in the solid and
returned at R through the string. The piece marked H is a piece of
¼-inch iron twisted so as to screw to the under side of the tread and
to the inside of the string. The last baluster on the step should be
iron, shouldered to fit on the top of the tread, and a ¾ pin on it to
go through the step, with a thread for a nut to screw it up tight from
the bottom. They are sometimes run in with sulphur instead of the nut;
in that case it can be fixed after the step is fixed, but the nut makes
the best job.
Fig. 4 shows an apparatus for cutting up the balusters around the
wreaths. It is a very simple affair, easily made and easily applied;
it makes a perfect fit, and the saving of time is very great. The box
is made the size of the baluster on the inside, the back C is 1½ inch
thick, and the sides ¾ inch. The pieces marked A are cut as shown, and
slotted, a couple of screws are screwed into the sides with washers on,
for A to slide up and down. B is a piece of zinc screwed on to A, as
shown, with the head countersunk flush. B must be about ⅛ inch narrower
than the balusters, so as to go into the groove of the under side of
handrail. The screws in B must be so that they can be turned either way
with the fingers, while those in the sides must be so that A will slide
up and down easy. The box will be about 2 feet long, cut off perfectly
square at the bottom end. To mark the balusters, stand the box on the
tread so that the inside of it will be immediately over where the
baluster has to go. Slide up A on either side so that B will go into
the groove of the under side of the handrail, then turn B on both sides
to fit the rail. Take it away and lay it down, and lay the baluster in
it, and mark it top and bottom. The dovetail has of course to be added.
The distance between the two pieces of zinc must be the same as the
balusters and inside of the box, and the centre of B must be in a line
with the centre of the side of inside of box.
Fig. 5 shows the plan, and Fig. 6 the sectional elevation, of a part of
stairs, with winders in the quarter space, and a quarter space landing
to give access to a doorway. The dotted lines show the carriages and
landing. The back edges of the treads are kept ½ inch beyond the back
of risers to form a ledge. The cross piece G is fixed to receive
the carriages, as shown. The pieces F are fixed, as shown, let into
the wall one end, and fixed to the back of the well the other. These
pieces are fixed under each tread flush with the back edge, the width
depends upon the well string; they are kept so that the plaster will
finish flush with the bottom of the well. The short carriages C are cut
tight in between F and F, and they must be wide enough to notch over
the projection of the back edge of the treads, as shown by E, Fig. 6.
If these short carriages are cut in tight it makes a good sound job,
and rough brackets can be nailed on them, and blocked and glued as for
the straight parts. The laths will go from F to F. D is put in to take
the laths, as the distance here from F to F is too much without them,
and E is to take the ends of laths along the wall. The landing will be
understood. The joists K are put in to receive the floor and laths.
Fig. 7 shows the joint of the two diagonal joists.
Fig. 8 shows the joints at the external angle of the landing, the bolt
going through the three, J A H, as shown.
[Illustration: PLATE 11.]