CHAPTER IV

TWO MINISTERS, A BARD, A SCHOOLMASTER, AN INNKEEPER, AND OTHERS

MR. JONES, THE MINISTER

Jones is a little, thin, long-skulled, black-haired, pale Congregational

minister, with a stammer and a squint. He has a book-shelf containing

nothing but sermons and theology, which he has read, and the novels of

Sir Walter Scott, which he hopes to read. I suppose he believes in

metempsychosis. He is accustomed to say that everything is

theology—which is fine; and that theology is everything—which is hard.

He tries to love man as well as God, and succeeds in convincing every

one of his honesty, generosity, and industry. In the care of souls he

fears no disease or squalor or shape of death. But there is a

condescension about his ways with men. He calls them the worldliest of

God's creatures. But with the Divine he is happy and at ease, and in his

pulpit seems to sit on the right hand. Then his Biblical criticism is

absent as if it had never been, and he sees the holy things at once as

clearly as Quarles and as mystically as Herbert or Crashaw. He speaks of

them with the enthusiasm of a collector or of a man of science dealing

with a bone or a gas. Like them, he sees nothing but the subjects of the

moment. He loves them as passionately and yet with a sense of

possession. He gives to them the adoration which he seems wilfully to

have withheld from women, pageantry, gardens, palaces—which his speech

would have adorned. He lavishes upon them his whole ingenious heart, so

that, to those used to the false rhetoric and dull compliment of

ordinary worshippers, there is in his sermons something fantastical,

far-fetched, or smelling of the lamp. If he has to describe something

naked or severe, he must needs give them a kind of voluptuousness by

painting the things which they lack, and the lack of which makes them

what they are. With Herbert, he might repeat:

[Illustration: CARNARVON, FROM ANGLESEY]

My God, where is that ancient heat towards thee,

Wherewith whole shoals of Martyrs once did burn,

Besides their other flames? doth Poetry

Wear Venus' livery? only serve her turn?

Why are not Sonnets made of thee? and lays

Upon thine altar burnt? Cannot thy love

Heighten a spirit to sound out thy praise

As well as she? Cannot thy Dove

Outstrip their Cupid easily in flight?

Or, since thy ways are deep, and still the same,

Will not a verse run smooth that bears thy name?

Why doth the fire which by thy power and might

Each breast does feel, no braver fuel choose

Than that, which one day worms may chance refuse?

Sure, Lord, there is enough in thee to dry

Oceans of ink; for as the Deluge did

Cover the Earth, so does thy Majesty;

Each cloud distils thy praise, and doth forbid

Poets to turn it to another use.

Roses and lilies speak thee: and to make

A pair of cheeks of them, is thy abuse.

Why should I women's eyes for crystal take?

Such poor invention burns in their low mind

Whose fire is wild, and does not upward go

To praise, and on thee, Lord, some note bestow.

Open the bones, and you shall nothing find

In the best face but filth; when, Lord, in thee

Thy beauty lies in the discovery.

It is no matter to him that to the uninspired audience his holy persons

appear only exquisite marionettes. His sermons are all of his love for

them. Could one leave out the names of prophet and evangelist, they

might seem to be addressed to earthly beauties. No eyebrow ever awakened

more glowing praise. He takes religion, as he does his severe morality,

like a sensuous delight. One might think from his epithets that he was

an æsthete, except that he is so abandoned.

When he ventures to speak of men, their very virtues and vices are all

handled in such a way that they seem to be his own imaginations. Thus,

his drunkard is as unreal and as terrible as a chimera. The words are

those of a man who has conceived a drunkard in his own brain, and then,

seeing the real thing, has preferred his own conception, and shunned the

poor human imitation. Still, he speaks of religious things, of incidents

in the life of David or Christ or the Maries, as if he had seen, for

example, the Holy Family in some misty barn among his own hills. I have

even heard him introduce a farmer whittling a flail of hazel sticks and

binding it with willow thongs, in a picture of that scene. This

quaintness and clearness are perhaps the result of his not quite healthy

asceticism. But even by the farmhouse fire he makes use of them, and

will speak of the red or brown hair of scriptural characters, and even

of the grey hair and shining eyes of Charity. In hunger or weariness or

pain, common people sometimes see things thus: he never sees them

otherwise. In the chapel they delight the older labourers, and yet fail

because they vanish in the cold night air and "leave not a rack behind."

Some hearers, on the other hand, sicken at them, when the blood is noisy

in the breast and the brain is warm, as they sicken at drugs.

It is not, therefore, surprising that at one time he had gorgeous

earthly dreams. But with an oddity of which nothing will cure him, he is

much troubled by this pomp which he desires not to see save in celestial

things. And now he allows sleep nightly but a brief victory over him.

THE LANDLORD OF THE "CROSS INN"

A very pretty companion for Jones was Owen, the innkeeper, a robust man

of words, who called himself the preacher's best customer, because he

needed so much of his charity.

He was a perfect Celt, according to the English superstition. For never

was there such a failure who was also such a swaggerer as he. He had

fair hair, blue eyes, and a small, elegant beard, which

Business could not make dull, nor passion wild.

He was bullied by a contemptuous wife; he was ridiculed by all his

regular customers, rallied by the rest. But the beard was always neat

and fair, a symbol of his unconquerable mind. No matter how he was

trodden down, he smelt sweet. He had humour, for he could laugh at

himself, though he lacked the common gift of being able to laugh at

others, and had no repartee. The more lusty the Saturday night thrusts

at him, the more vivid was his reply, and it was commonly a piece of

egoism and self-exposure, which, if not so long and so wonderfully

draped, would have called for a repetition of the very blow he was

parrying. Once when he had been sold up and had little more than a wife

and a walking-stick in the world, and his position attracted some

trifling compliments and condolences from his old harriers, he stood up,

and, wielding his stick and motioning to his wife to be silent, gave an

inventory of the things he had lost with such decoration as would have

abashed an auctioneer. There is a Welsh proverb, "A Welshman keeps

nothing until he has lost it"; and the now invisible and inaccessible

furniture called up such a tumult of admiration that he cared not that

it was no longer his. How rich he looked! As the words flowed on and it

was time for his hearers to be going, it was clear that if he had

forgotten anything, he had invented more; but though he ended in no

better company than that of his wife, who picked something from his coat

and held it between the tips of two fingers for his humiliation, he but

wiped his forehead and cursed because he had forgotten the ancient

horse-trappings of brass that used to hang over the mantelpiece at the

—— Arms.

[Illustration: BODDNANT HALL, CONWAY VALLEY]

His voice, whether he sang or spoke, was of wide range and exquisite

adjustment, and he spoke with care and gusto, as if he loved his native

tongue. Under its influence, he respected nobody of any importance.

Thus, he was once pretty justly thrashed; when, having tired his

chastiser by his patience, he remarked at great length that he supposed

the other did not know who he was, and the splendour of his manner

overcame his heated companion. No sooner had he got home than he gave a

rapturous description of how one had given another a thrashing down the

road. He did it so well that he was asked whether he was the beater.

"No," said he bravely, "it happened that I was beat."

Had he lost by a bargain, had he taken a bad coin unawares, had he been

worsted in argument, he could so rant that he moved every one, and

himself obviously first of all, and made the worse appear the better. He

kept a genealogical tree in constant use by pruning and watering, and

though there was not only a prince but a poet in it, I think he gloried

less in the old splendour of his family than in the length of its fall,

as who should say he had once been so high that he was "from morn to

dewy eve" in falling.

When first I saw him, he had just come into the "Cross Inn." It was

mid-day; the weather was cold and wet; and since he never liked to see a

man drinking by himself, and the shepherds coming down from the

mountains to market had called pretty often, he was not sober. He told

me that his was a fine house—the finest in the village, and therefore in

the county; and that it had not paid the former tenant well, who had, in

fact, sold but eighteen gallons of beer in a month. He was going to do

better than that, he said; to make a beginning, he was going to drink

that quantity himself. I asked for brandy. He had not a drop, and

explained that he had a weakness for it himself—took a drop very often;

and that therefore, to get out of temptation, he had finished his stock

on the night before. "But," said he, "I have upstairs such a bed as

you—pardon me—never slept in yet."

"I have no doubt," said I, and sat down.

[Illustration: CARNARVON CASTLE]

But when he heard that I was walking across Wales, and had therefore

tried many beds, he insisted that I should see the thing. It was the

finest in the village—in the county—in Wales—"I don't see why I should

not say in the whole world." Truly it was a noble bed, in a great,

empty, raftered, uncarpeted room; the wood all darkened oak, with a

dusky gleam; the hangings ample and of a rich crimson stuff; the purity

of the linen splendid. If a royal person or a poet had not slept in it,

"that was their misfortune." He stood by, awed and reverent, beholding

the bed. I was not his equal in eloquence, and he echoed my praise with

an elaborate "of course": and for the sake of hearing some of the words

he loved, he finally invited me to spend a night in the bed, "as his

guest," so he magnificently said.

All his family were of the same temper. His father and mother had gone

to London years ago, and, at seventy years of age, to the infirmary of a

workhouse....

The aged paupers sat in a long, grey, motionless, and silent row—like a

sculptured frieze, or like persons expecting to be photographed—under

the wall of a church. Before them was a strip of grass, one emerald half

of which shone so that it seemed of an element like flame; for it was

pure, insubstantial colour; and into this, as the paupers saw, the tide

of the shadow of the church gradually ate. Beyond the grass was the

infirmary, and alongside it a yellow road, and on that a hearse.

Watching this and the paupers, a crowd of persons, with uninterested,

inquisitive eyes and bowler hats, stuck their noses through the railings

which ran between the busy street and the infirmary. Motor cars brayed,

hooves clattered.

Presently three men carried out a coffin, containing the remains of Mrs.

Owen, and shoved it into the hearse. "God love me, what a coffin!" said

one of the crowd. But the frieze of paupers were silent and motionless

in the long grey row—all but the husband of the corpse. He, like the

others, seemed to stare at the hearse with fixed gaze, and in a loud

voice he remembered what a bonny woman the corpse had been, and in

particular how, while a travelling musician played in the village

street, when she was past fifty years of age, she had locked herself

into the kitchen and danced, having spread a mat to deaden the clicking

of her merry clogs; and he had watched her, unobserved. The story and

his uncontrolled, bleating voice raised a laugh under the bowler hats;

and the old men lifted their heads and straightened themselves and

laughed; and most loudly and grimly of all laughed Owen, while he

remembered the cottage in sight of the beacons of Breconshire; and the

hearse rolled out and the crowd removed.

MR. ROWLANDS, THE MINISTER

Rowlands, another minister, is six feet and two inches in height,

seventeen stone in weight, and has a voice which is in proportion. When

he stands up, one supposes that he can never sit down; when he sits

down, one supposes that he can never stand up. Every one of his

attitudes seems to be final. Only when he is moving is his ponderosity a

little less than divine; for he moves with an odd briskness, so that,

from behind, he is like a large schoolboy on some urgent business. His

mind is subject to similar changes of aspect. In domestic life no one is

less awful than he; and were he not good-tempered, cheerful, frolicsome,

and humorous as well, he would be one of the most mirth-provoking of

mankind. On children he leaves no impression but that of weight, and in

spite of his black clothes, he once reminded a child (with a shrill

voice) of Atlas upholding the world.

In his everyday life he is a learned, happy child. His curiosity is

matched by his credulity. He is the victim not only of tradesmen,

but of beggars. He cannot keep his coat clean, and that he sews on

his own buttons is apparent from the fact that he seldom has more

than one or two of those decorations. He knows every one in his

neighbourhood—miners, farmers, parsons, and the resident

Englishmen—and knows and loves them so well that he never condemned

any one except for cruelty. For he seems to have started life with

such a strong belief in the sinfulness of men, that he has ever

since been pleased and surprised by this one's goodness and the

amiability of that one's badness. He might, in truth, have spoken of

himself in something like the words of that fine, possibly Welsh

poet of the seventeenth century, Thomas Traherne:

A learned and a happy ignorance

Divided me

From all the vanity,

From all the sloth, care, pain, and sorrow that advance

The madness and the misery

Of men. No error, no distraction I

Saw soil the earth or overcloud the sky.

I knew not that there was a serpent's sting

Whose poison shed,

On men, did overspread

The world; nor did I dream of such a thing

As sin, in which mankind lay dead.

They were all brisk and living wights to me,

Yea, pure and full of immortality.

Joy, pleasure, beauty, kindness, glory, love,

Sleep, day, life, light,

Peace, melody, my sight,

My ears and heart did fill and freely move.

All that I saw did me delight.

The universe was then a world of treasure,

To me an universal world of pleasure....

[Illustration: DISTANT VIEW OF CARNARVON BAY]

His own verses, by the way, are not so good, for, like all Welsh

ministers, he writes a hundred lines of verse every day, perhaps to

avoid being thought singular.

He makes a fine figure of Charity in his old age, with his preoccupied

blue eyes under a brow that is marked only by three lines like three

beams thrown upward by a sun. He has a large, joyous, curving mouth,

side-whiskers, careless beard, large feet.

He has but one touch of sentiment. Nearly half a century ago he fell in

love with a pretty woman, and unsuccessfully; yet, though she is known

to be married and still alive, he has come to have for her memory a

grandfatherly tenderness, regarding her as a white and careless girl, in

spite of time. For the rest, so warm and radiant is he, that I remember

the peculiarity of Kai. "When it rained hardest, whatever he carried

remained dry for a handbreadth above and a handbreadth below his hand,

and when his companions were coldest, it was to them as fuel with which

to light their fire."

But in the pulpit—whether it is a whim or an atonement or merely a

recollection of his years at a theological college—he always makes an

attempt to dust the wrinkles of his waistcoat. In every other way he

makes his week-day self incredible to a stranger. He justifies and makes

use of his size more than any man I ever saw. Seeing him in the pulpit,

it seems fitting that he should live there day and night, so necessary a

pillar is he to the dull, small chapel, though, when holding out his

arms, as often he does, he threatens to demolish the little arches and

poor windows and to create something more splendid in their place. Going

there once in his absence, a visitor remarked to a deacon that they had

made some changes in the building; and asking what had gone from there,

he was told, "Oh, only Mr. Rowlands."

Standing there, he undertakes to speak on behalf of the Deity, whose

ways he explains, and by a magnificent self-conceit supposes that his

own stature and voice are fitting symbols to mortals incapable of

apprehending things more august. For a time, indeed, during the singing

of the hymns, there is a geniality as of lightning about his face. He

smiles; he tosses his head with the joy of the song, and may even be

supposed to feel, not without sympathy, that the mighty music says

things which were not dreamed of by prophets or apostles.

[Illustration:

ON THE RIVER SEIONT, CARNARVONSHIRE—EVENING GLOW

]

When he reads a lesson, it is plain to see that above all other Gods he

loves "the Lord that smiteth." He opens his mouth and rejoices in the

rich and massy Welsh. He makes no attempt at mere clear reading, which

would be of no use to an imaginative audience, that is familiar with the

Bible; but, raising and lowering his voice, now hurrying as if to a

precipice where all will be overthrown, now creeping as if he feared

what is to come, he makes the chapter anew, creating it as if he were

sculptor or musician. I suppose he uses nearly as many musical notes as

if he sang; but the result differs from singing, as prose from poetry;

and so noble is the prose that it suggests only one possible answer to

the question which, like a school-man, he once asked, Whether the music

of the spheres be verse or prose? Yet, if the note of the lesson is

melancholy, full of the dreariness of moving over the void and creating,

the note of the sermon is triumphant, or if not triumphant it is

minatory, or if not minatory it is scornful, and at times a listener

expects to see him wrapped in a cloud and carried away from an

undeserving and purblind race.

The medium of what English people would call his rhetoric is the "hwyl,"

an exuberant, impassioned, musical modulation of the voice, and, to

compare great things with small, comparable to the very finest intoning

to which has been added (if we can suppose it) a lyrical, egotistical

indulgence in all moods of pity, scorn, tenderness, anger, sorrow, joy,

anxiety and hope. It can be familiar or lofty. It is as powerful as harp

and song together; and the force of it often arises from the fact that

what is heard is rather the musical accompaniment of the man's thought

than the thought itself. Hence its terrible and lovely purposes, and the

many sentiments with which it is shot, and the dubiousness of the

loftier passages, as in the verses which the bards recited before Arthur

and only one man understood them, except that they were in Arthur's

praise.

I have seen him so thunder that I thought of the Llewelyns and Glyndwr,

and forgot that the castles fester no longer with Englishmen, and

aerea ramis

dependet galea et prato gravia arma quiescunt,

and for the moment, thought he was a man. No actor ever stormed and

swelled so, because no actor yet played the part which he played. It was

a chant; yet it was too uncontrollable for a chant. If you call it

declamation, you must admit that to declaim a man shall first go to

Medea, that she

Having drawn that weakness from his limbs

Which torpid now and chilly there abode,

Through every vacant artery may force

The green and joyous sap of thriving plants,—

Juice of crushed stalks mixed with their ropy gums,

And purpled bright with strength from berry and grape,

Full of a stinging, swift, and masterful

Vivacity.

For the blood of a declaimer of seventy does not travel so by ordinary

ways. Nor can a declaimer, as he does, build up for the imagination an

earth, with sky and mountains, within a little chapel, for the sake of

showing how the lightning vaults and impales the unjust man. At other

times his words rise up and circle and make fantastic architecture, as

real as dreams, for the terror of the soul that for the time is forced

to dwell therein. And though the substance of his sermon is but

anecdote, biblical reference, exhortation, warning, picturesque logic

built upon some simple religious theme, men and women weep under this

divine bullying. A man, listening outside the chapel, put his hand to

his head to make sure that his hat was on, so stiffly his hair stood up.

"Then the earth shook and trembled; the foundations also of the hills

moved and were shaken, because he was wroth....

"He bowed the heavens also, and came down: and darkness was under his

feet.

"And he rode upon a cherub, and did fly: yea, he did fly upon the wings

of the wind.

"He made darkness his secret place; his pavilion round about him were

dark waters and thick clouds of the skies...."

Once he paused long, towards the end of a sermon, while the thunder

withdrew with a terrible solemnity which he envied; and he did not

hesitate to follow the thunder with the words, "It has been said," and

so to end.

THE POACHER

One who used to come in late, years ago, was Gwilym Pritchard, the

poacher.

[Illustration: BRIDGE, CWM-Y-GLO—EVENING]

I wish to make a nice distinction between poachers and poachers. The man

who is nothing but a poacher I regard as one only in the strict literal

sense. Such a man is rare to-day. Formerly he went to the woods as

another man went to the Bar. He lived like a gentleman upon other men's

venison, and was beneath the pleasure of salt-pork broth. He would

swagger about the hamlet with a deer on his back. The deer was but a

carcass at sixpence the pound to him. He has lately stooped to dictate

his autobiography, which may be bought over the counter. A less

majestical note was never sounded. He turned gamekeeper, and no doubt

touched his cap for half-a-sovereign, and stared at his palm for a

crown. He is, in short, "one of God's creatures." But the nobler one I

have in mind seemed to bear high office in the scheme of the natural

world. A mighty man, capable of killing anything and of sparing anything

too, he was a true scholar in his kind. The pedants who peep and

botanise and cry "allium" or "cnicus" to one another in the awful woods,

and the sublime enthusiasts who cannot see the earth for the flowers,

were equally beneath him. He would give twelve hours a day at least to

the open air, as a scholar to his books. Thus he had acquired a large

erudition which would probably have exhausted a whole field of inquiry

if written down. It is fortunate that faultless observers like this hand

down nothing to posterity, since it leaves us in these latter days free

to feel ourselves discoverers when we come upon what hundreds have known

during the last thousand years. In the case of this man, the knowledge

came out not so much in speech—of which he was economical—as in infinite

tact,

Wearing all that weight

Of learning lightly like a flower.

It was shown in the way he stepped in the woods, in the way he laid his

ear to the bare ground (not the grass) to ascertain a distant noise of

footsteps. I have seen him lose a wood-pigeon by an interrupted aim,

and, standing without sound or motion, shoot the bird, that returned to

its branch, enchanted by the absence of hostile sounds; for his very

clothes were more the work of nature than the tailor, and matched the

trees like a hawk or a November moth. His belief in the earth as a

living thing was almost a superstition. I shall not forget how he took

me to a hilltop one autumn day, when the quiet gave birth to sound after

sound as we listened and let our silence grow. By a process of

elimination he set aside the wind, the birds, the falling leaves, the

water, and tried to capture for my sake the low hum which was the earth

making music to itself. And what I heard I can no more describe than the

magic of an excellent voice when once it is silent. "Depend upon it,

that means something," he said. "And now——" there was a sharp report and

a hare that I had not noticed bounded as if it had fallen from a great

height, and lay dead.

[Illustration: FIELD PATH, NEAR LLANRUG]

Having been caught once, I remarked that his captor must have been a

clever man. "A fool," he replied—"a fool. He'd been after me a hundred

times, and I had fooled him all but once." It was at one time his

practice to deliver a tithe of his poached game at the cottages of the

sick, infirm, or poor, _as a present from the Squire_, a notoriously

ungenerous man. His occupation had made him indifferent to the future or

the past. None ever chattered less about past happiness and future pain.

He seemed to owe a duty to the present moment of which he partook as if

he were eating ripe fruit. Even a piece of drudgery or a keen sorrow

never drove his intelligence backward or forward; pain he took as some

take medicine, on trust. Thus he was a small, though not a poor, talker.

Venturing once to greet him pleasantly with the long beginning of a

story, when I found him seated without any visible occupation, and

noticing his irritation, I said that I had supposed he was not doing

anything; to which he answered "Yes, nothing!" and continued. At one

time of his life he heard that a considerable sum of money had been left

to him. A year later, the foundering of a ship left his fortunes

unchanged; and on the afternoon of the news, he shot every pigeon at

which he raised his gun. Birds of prey he would never shoot, even to

show his skill. Jackdaws were always spared; he used to say that there

was "a bit of God" in that bird. It was noticeable, too, that here and

there he spared game birds, though he despised the race. I have seen him

raise his gun and drop it again, not without a sigh as the bird flew

off, observing that there was "something in the bird" which stayed his

hand. In men, as in birds and beasts, he was anxious to see

individuality, and loved the creature that possessed and used it. The

only time I ever saw him use contempt was towards a beggar who had

soiled his calling by theft. A good beggar, a good thief, anything

beyond which "the force of nature could no further go," he reverenced.

And he was a good poacher, glorying in the name. He died polishing the

white steel on his gun.

LLEWELLYN, THE BARD

Of Llewelyn, the bard, I cannot decide whether he most loves man or men.

He is for ever building castles in the air and filling them with

splendid creatures, whom he calls men. Then he laments that he cannot

find any like them on hill or in valley: when, straightway, he will meet

some human being, old friend or passing stranger, on the road or in a

shop, and away go the phantoms of his castles, and he is wild in

adoration of the new thing he has found. His grandmother, by the way,

was called a fairy's child, though the truth seems to have been that her

mother was a gipsy girl. Perhaps that is why he has no creed but many

creeds, and was looked upon with great favour by the Calvinists until

they found that he liked the Church as well. Yet I think that he likes

men truly because they remind him of something he has read or dreamed,

or because they make him dream; herein somewhat resembling the fellow

who paid much court to another because he reminded him of the late Duke

of ——, and he was a lover of dukes. Or he is like some that have seen

processions of phantoms and say that sometimes the phantoms are simply

fairies speaking an unknown tongue, but that sometimes several have the

faces and voices of some among the dead whom they used to know. Why he

is so glad to be among us at the farmhouse I have not discovered, but I

suppose we remind him of Hebrew prophets or Greekish kings, for of our

established merits he takes no thought.

I think he wastes so much pity for Annie of Lochroyan that other maids

find him passionless, and he grows tender over Burd Ellen and Cynisca as

their lovers never did. Arthur and Gwalchmai and Gwenhwyvar, the most

unreal and unliving of all the persons of literature, please him most.

In a world where all things are passing, he loves best those things

which, having past and having left a ghost of fame behind, can live for

ever in minds like his. In London he saw but a place where marsh and

river and woods had been and might be again; or where

Sometimes a lily petal floated down

From dear, remote pools to the dreary town;

where the gulls flew over in the mournful January light; where a few

friends had fires and lamps and books—their light faintly flickering in

tremendous gloom and making one faint reality in the place; where wind

and rain sometimes brought the past again; for the very touch of rain

and wind beckoned to him, as it is fabled that the foam driven from

waters that cover old towns will draw the unwary whom it touches into

the deeps.

[Illustration: WINDY DAY, NEAR LLANRUG]

He himself professes to care only for his own childhood and youth; only

he is aware, as not every one is, that the childhood began in Eden, and

is ages old, so that, after all, the few years that make middle age do

not count for much. His life and his way of looking at it remind me of a

story of a young Eastern prince. Every day, from his early childhood, a

story-teller had told him a tale. But, soon after he was sixteen, the

story-teller came to him, and, falling on his knees, told him that he

had no more stories to tell. The young prince fell into a rage and swore

that he would kill the man if, in a week, he had no new story ready. And

the story-teller, who was very old and unwilling to die, went into the

desert and neither ate nor drank, and made a plan by which to save his

life. So he returned to the young prince, who asked if he had a new

story, and he said that he had. And the prince bade him tell the story;

and he began to speak, and told the prince the story which he had told

him first, when he was a small child; and the prince was pleased. And

until the old man died, he never told a story which he had not told

before; and the prince was always pleased.

His poetry, if it could be understood, might be counted great, and

perhaps it is so in a world where trees and animals are reverenced in a

way which is hardly dawning here. He is a kind of mad Blake. He sees the

world from among the stars, and those who see it from an elevation of

five or six feet, and think that they see it as it really is, are not

satisfied. He would make human the stars and seasons; he would make

starry the flowers and the grass. He would have it that the world is but

a shadow of Blake's "Real and Eternal world": that we who are shadows

cling to the superstition that we are not, and have but prejudiced and

fearful ears for his prophecies. He sees the world as a commonwealth of

angels and men and beasts and herbs; and in it, horrible discords that

we others scarcely hear seem to him to strike the stars.

Each outcry of the hunted hare

A fibre from the brain doth tear;

A skylark wounded on the wing

Doth make a cherub cease to sing.

After all, in matters of the spirit, men are all engaged in colloquies

with themselves. Some of them are overheard, and they are the poets. It

is his fortune that he is not overheard, at least by men.

[Illustration: MORNING MISTS, NEAR TREFRIW]

Yet how much would he sacrifice could he but write a few verses in the

old Welsh manner,—but a few verses like those he repeats as lovingly as

others would their own. First, there is the elegy on Gwenhwyvar by

Griffith ap Meredith ap Davydd:

The wearer of white and green, of red and blue,

Is now in the painful fold of death.

The Church conceals her—she whom velvet so adorned.

Wearer of velvet,

We mourn with tears now that the flush of her beauty has faded,

Now that the wearer of velvet and red is no more.

That he praises for its clear-eyed simplicity, its mournfulness direct

as the cry of a child, as the bravery of this is as direct as the

laughter of a child (it is by a poet who was also a prince):

I love the time of summer, when the charger

Of the exulting chief prances in the presence of a gallant lord,

When the nimbly moving wave is covered with foam,

When the apple tree is in flower,

And the white shield is borne on my shoulder to battle.

This, also, for its simple pride:

The men who went to Cattraeth were men of name:

Wine and mead out of gold was their drink:

Three men, and threescore, and three hundred, with golden torques.

How often will he repeat "with golden torques"!

But (and here some will reconsider their opinion that he is a fool, or

one "not wise" as the pleasant Welsh phrase goes) there is no one that

can laugh more loudly than he; or sing a song more happily; or join more

lustily than he in hunting on foot, over the craggy hills, some fox

which the farmer can never shoot when he comes for the turkeys in

November; and in the heat of the run he will curse the hounds for

gaining on the fox, and the fox for running no faster, saying that the

worst of fox-hunting is that it is so one-sided, since the fox is not

allowed to rejoice at the end with hounds and men.

And here is one of his imitative songs, reduced to its lowest terms by a

translator:

She is dead, Eluned,

Whom the young men and the old men

And the old women and even the young women

Came to the gates in the village

To see, because she walked as beautifully as a heifer.

She is dead, Eluned,

Who sang the new songs

And the old; and made the new

Seem old, and the old

As if they were just born and she had christened them.

She is dead, Eluned,

Whom I admired and loved,

When she was gathering red apples,

When she was making bread and cakes,

When she was smiling to herself alone and not thinking of me.

She is dead, Eluned,

Who was part of Spring,

And of blue Summer and red Autumn,

And made the Winter beloved;

She is dead, and these things come not again.

[Illustration: DISTANT VIEW OF BETTWS-Y-COED]

AZARIAH JOHN PUGH

One of the most inspiriting of our fire-siders at the farmhouse is a

young schoolmaster named Azariah John Pugh, and called, in the Welsh

fashion, almost invariably, Azariah John.

He is mainly English and partly Spanish; he was born in England, but

having a Welsh name, he boasts much of his country, as he has elected to

call Wales. But in truth he belongs to no time or place. He cares

nothing for the house he lives in, for the village, or for any place he

ever saw. Yet are we never tired of hearing his rich sentiments about

them all. If only he be far away from it, there is no place known to him

which he will not magnify with words which others do not easily use even

for their true loves. Probably he would like to like them; but that very

liking seems to be due to his feverish wide reading in books that are

full of sentiments he admires and would borrow, if he could. Thus, of

old cities, rivers flowing past famous places, mountains of beauty or

story, the white cliffs of the south, the whin-red moorland of Wales,

old gardens, solemn woods, all solitudes, fading races, sunsets, fallen

greatness in men and things, old books, old beer, poverty, childhood ...

of all these he will talk as if he had discovered them to the world,

though it may be doubted whether he knows them at all. Yet is he a

magnificent echo of the genuine lovers of these things, and he is so

sorrowfully anxious to be believed that to some of us he has seemed to

be the true heir, though defrauded of his inheritance, of all beauty and

all antiquity. He is for ever speaking of "remembering afresh and with

pleasure ancient matters," though he knows that even he cannot remember

them with pleasure, and that no experienced man ever does so. He is so

young that he has nothing to forget. But in his own esteem he is old

now, and shakes his head over the light-heartedness of old men, saying,

"If they were as old as I am——"

He speaks so suavely that the plain man wonders that he has never felt

as deeply himself. Before his patriotism, the patriot is abashed. The

lover of the quiet life, in his presence, is persuaded that himself can

hardly be said to love it. No lover repeats more fondly—

[Illustration: THE OLD BRIDGE, BETTWS-Y-COED]

And I would send tales of forgotten love

Late into the lone night, and sing wild songs

Of maids deserted in the olden time.

He thus deceives every one but himself, and that one exception is the

real cause of his unhappiness. He cannot avoid his affectations. He only

finds them out when they are full-grown and most noisily and hungrily

abroad in every man's ears, and then he has to maintain them, wearily

but with an apparent gaiety. Pity even will not hurt him. It is his

genial air: he rejoices in it as a pigeon, leaning and raising her wing

to expose her tender side, rejoices in summer rain, and as languidly;

and then again he is furious at it, and cultivates brutality, drinks

much beer, and uses many oaths, of which he wearies and comes again to

the old tap.

The ghosts of the subtle emotions which we say make up modernity have

come into his brain, and they are so many that he has become, if not a

theatre, at least a mortuary, of modernity. But the nervous strain of

any real passion in his neighbourhood obliges him to be rude or to run

away. Real passion was always scandalously ill done: he would have no

lover die less romantically than Romeo.

And as his thoughts, so are his acts, except that they are few. He has

been to Rome, the Bay of Spezzia, Windermere; he has walked along the

Pilgrim's Road to Canterbury. He has learned to work badly in metal and

wood. He has had whims and drugs enough to win an appreciation from Mr.

Arthur Symons. He has written poems under the influence of something in

his stomach; but either he cannot read them, or they are not fit to be

read. He wrote one, I remember, about a girl who worked a story in

tapestry while her lover played on a harp the melody which told the same

story. He wrote a sermon on the death of John Jones because a hundred

persons of that name die every day, and he wished to praise the average

man, out of a whimsical distaste for his late less fantastic likings. He

has had friends and has been left by them; or, as he says, after the

Welsh poet,

The brave, the magnanimous, the amiable, the generous, and the energetic

Are as stepping-stones to the bard.

He has made love, and he has been scorned; the sad tunes of

Old unhappy far off-things

And battles long ago

[Illustration: SWALLOW FALLS, BETTWS-Y-COED]

are accordingly most dear to him, and in his gayest moments he will

murmur some sad melody like "The Marsh of Rhuddlan" or "My Johnny was a

shoemaker." I have heard him repeat this strange poem of Taliesin's as

if he were a reincarnation of the bard:

Primary chief bard am I to Elphin,

And my original country is the region of the summer stars;

Idno and Heinin called me Merddin,

At length every King will call me Taliesin.

I was with my Lord in the highest sphere,

On the fall of Lucifer into the depth of hell;

I have borne a banner before Alexander;

I know the names of the stars from north to south....

I have been with my Lord in the manger of the ass;

I strengthened Moses through the water of Jordan;

I have been in the firmament with Mary Magdalene;

I have obtained the muse from the cauldron of Ceridwen;

I have been bard of the harp to Lleon of Lochlin;

I have been on the White Hill, in the court of Cynvelyn;

For a day and a year in stocks and fetters,

I have suffered hunger for the Son of the Virgin.

I have been fostered in the land of the Deity,

I have been teacher to all intelligences,

I am able to instruct the whole universe,

I shall be until the day of doom on the face of the earth:

And it is not known whether my body is flesh or fish....

And it falls strangely from this wandering voice that calls itself a

man. It is comic and it is terrible. He alone seems to feel the true

sadness of them: flatterers and low comic persons tell him that he is

but a vessel come into the world to be filled with all the sorrows that

have been. Truly, all that has passed, is.

Nevertheless, we love him for his gross natural self, for so we think

his only convincing affectation, the only one which he displays with

some consistency by the fireside; and we know, as the world does not

know, how costly and passionate affectations are.

MORGAN RHYS AND OTHERS

I should like to win some charity for Morgan Rhys, the descendant of a

prince, a bard and a tin-plater. Charity it must be; for, in truth, he

is something of a Celt in the bad, fashionable sense of that strange

word, and is somewhat ridiculous beside the landlord of the "Cross Inn."

An orphan, he lived as the only child in the large house of a distant

relative, reading everything, playing half-heartedly at games, yet now

and then entering into them with such enthusiasm that he did what he

liked and won a singular reputation. He went seldom to a chapel, and

when he went, did something more than escape boredom, by the marvellous

gift of inattention which enabled him to continue his own chain of

thought or fancy from beginning to end of the service. He was quite

unhindered by hymn, prayer, or sermon, and accepted what he heard, as

elderly persons accept fairies, without even curiosity. The death of

others made him helpless for a time, but he did not reason about the

fact: his own death he at all times contemplated without fear; what he

feared, if anything, was the fear of death.

These things would not be remarkable, if he had not been at the same

time an impressionable, submissive child, incapable of listening to

argument, indeed, but of an unsatisfied sentimentality that might have

been made much use of by a priest. His abstraction from things to which

he was indifferent was wonderful. He was delighted and fascinated by

abstraction itself, and finding a thing uninteresting, he could at once

withdraw into a sweet, vaporous, empty cave. Thus, he was praised at

school for his calmness during punishment, which, he says, on many

occasions he never felt at all.

When a child of five he had been left alone for half a day in a remote

chamber of a great house, and at nightfall was found sitting at a window

that commanded an orchard and a lawn, and when he did not rise to greet

his friends, and was questioned, merely said "Look!" Nobody could see

anything, or rather, they saw everything as usual: nor could he explain.

He always remembered the incident, and could not explain it. There was

no fairy, no peculiar light or gloom. Yet he admitted that he was

intoxicated by the mere trees and the green lawn. In the same way he was

often found listening to silence. He did not pretend to hear strange

music. It was the voluptuousness of sheer silence. At home, in the

fields, at school, he would cry: "There!" So far as any one could see,

there was nothing. To shut his eyes was not to see amply and clearly,

but to see infinite purple darkness, which he vastly loved. He would ask

friends whether they remembered this place or that on a certain day, and

if they did, could never have them share his pleasure at the

recollection; and for this whim he was scolded and ridiculed.

[Illustration: FAIRY GLEN, BETTWS-Y-COED]

But at the age of sixteen or seventeen, poetry gave him a second world

in which he thenceforward moved with a rapture which I do not often

observe in the religious, while in religious matters he remains so pure

a sceptic that he has never yet learned that there is anything about

which to be sceptical. This so-called matter-of-factness in combination

with a rich imaginativeness is perhaps a Welsh characteristic. I

remember a farmer in Cardiganshire, with the blood of a lamb on his

wrist, singing a fine hymn very nobly; and though I cannot like such a

mystic, I admire him. In the same way will Rhys turn from ribaldry to a

poem by Mr. Yeats. But he valued poetry not so much because it was full

of music for ear and spirit, though that he loved; not so much because

it was the first discoverer of Nature and Man, though that he well knew,

as because it revealed to him the possibility of a state of mind and

spirit in which alone all things could be fully known at their highest

power, and that state was his most cherished aim, and poetry helped him

to achieve it. Along with love of poetry went a curious study of

appearances and illusions. He was never tired of considering them; of

trying to elucidate the impressionism of the eyes and the other senses;

of trying to know what there was in tree or face or flower which many

measurements, scientific descriptions, photographs, and even pictures

did not exhaust. So many trees he saw were scarcely more than nothing,

though close by and in clear air: what were they, he asked. He had never

any answer. "If only we could think like that!" he said once, pointing

to a fair, straight hawthorn that stood, with few branches and without

leaves, on the mountain side. And he came to hope for a state in which

he and the trees and the great estuary near his house, the flowers, the

distant white cottages, should become all happily arranged in as perfect

a pattern as that made with iron dust by a magnet—all filling their

places, all integral parts of a whole, and important because they were.

[Illustration: CHURCH POOL, BETTWS-Y-COED]

One evening he came into the farmhouse in deep excitement because (as he

said) he had been part of the music of the spheres. He had walked

through village after village, over the mountains and along the rivers,

under great motionless white clouds. The air had been so clear that

every straw of the thatch gleamed separately. He had passed through the

lonely places with a sense of passing through a crowd because the rich

spring air had been so much a presence. The men labouring or idling in

the fields had seemed to be seraphic and majestic beings; the women

smiling or talking by the gates were solemn and splendid. When at last

he descended into this valley, he saw the wood smoke rising gently and

blue from all the houses, as if they had been a peaceful company smoking

pipes together. He had looked at the sky, the flushed mountain sheep,

the little stony lanes that led steeply up to farmyard and farm, the

jackdaw making suitable music high up in the cold bright air, the

buzzard swirling amidst the young bracken, and he had approved, and had

been approved, in ecstasy. And on that day the mazes of human activity

had been woven into a rich pattern with the clouds and the hills and the

waters for the pleasure of the gods, and were certainly for once fitted

to the beauty and harmony of the universe. Thus he spoke in

ejaculations, to our great joy, though not without giving us a fear that

he would spoil it by something inapposite. But merely remarking that he

had seen the parson feeding his boar and that the harmony between them

also was complete, he became silent, and for a time the whole world

shimmered and darkened as if it had been some tapestry which Rhys had

made. The most pious member of the party, a Christian if ever there was

one, remarked that he "wished he had felt like that sometimes." To which

Rhys replied that he could not possibly wish that, as he would then be

damned like himself: and the other agreed.

On days like this, he stepped over the edge of the world and saw the

gods leaning from the stars among the clouds, and perhaps the loneliness

that followed appalled him. For these days flew fast. And so he tried to

fortify himself by mingling warmly with the life of every day in the

village, where his reputation was for generosity, hard drinking, and

perfect latitude of speech. He stimulated the trade-unionist, the

parson, the minister, the bard. But he could not live both lives. The

worldly one was the more difficult and he gave it up, and only made

spasmodic and gross attempts to return to it. He began to shrink not

only from all men but from all outward experience, and to live, as only

too easily he could, upon his own fantasy. He was "surprised" when he

saw men in the street. A million people, all different and their

differences so much the more difficult because they were not

acknowledged, frightened him. So his advocacy of certain humane measures

and his support of some enthusiasms sounded as if they came from an

angel, a fiend, or a corpse. As will happen with men who love life too

passionately, he was often in love with death. He found enjoyment in

silence, in darkness, in refraining from deeds, and he longed even to

embrace the absolute blank or death, if only he could be just conscious

of it; and he envied the solitary tree on a bare plain high up among the

hills, under a night sky in winter where the only touch of life and

pleasure was the rain. And now, with his fantastic belief that the

corpse is life's handiwork and its utmost end, he is humanised only by a

dread of the blank to which he is going:

When we shall hear

The rain and wind beat dark December, how,

In that our pinching cave, shall we discourse

The freezing hours away?

He has made a heaven and he fears it.

Once there came to him and to the farmhouse a ghost from the north. He

was a tall, black-haired, white-faced man, with high curved brow,

straight fleshy nose, perfect firm lips, and bony chin. Was he soldier

or scholar or priest? asked one and another. His face was vigilant, of

childlike freedom of expression, and yet of boundless mystery in repose.

When he spoke, he had fire, dignity, rapidity, ease, fertility of ideas,

and everything of the orator except that his speech was simple. He could

move a Welsh multitude with politics as a wind moves the corn, yet he

did so but once, because "it was a blackguard game." Distinguished from

the rest only by his white tie, in the pulpit he looked a Loyola and was

a Chrysostom; yet he stood there but once or twice, to bury a noble man.

He was master of an English style that was like Newman's in simplicity,

music, and weight, yet published but one pamphlet that was wrung from

him by a needy cause in a week, and never did anything to disabuse a

public that praised him for it. His handwriting, in any haste, was that

of a leisured and proud monk. His deep voice had a kind of flame-like

hum of passion in it; he always used it in the service of the beautiful

and the true. I heard him laugh only once, and then the depth which he

discovered for a moment disturbed me so that I distrusted all laughter

afterwards: it was like a nymph emerging from a deep cave. In scorn, in

ignorance, in mere contentedness, he never uttered a word. He is content

to be the light and the rest of a few scholars and a hundred miners, and

to be the faithful, unhonoured Levite of the mighty dead, of whom not

one, or prince or bard, had a virtue which he has not, except it were a

strong right arm and the will to make a war in which to use it for the

service of the liberty and integrity of Wales, for these alone of mortal

things he passionately loves.

[Illustration: MINER'S BRIDGE ON RIVER LLUGWY]

Lastly, there is at the farmhouse still a memory of that poet, great

discoverer of manuscripts and splendid human being—Iolo Morganwg—also

herbalist, lover of liberty and of the Revolution in France, a mighty

walker, who would ride in no man's coach, and having been given a horse,

drove it before him for a long way, and complained that a horse was

wearisome. He learned his alphabet from the tombstones which his father

made. In his youth, in the middle of the eighteenth century, he thought

of going to America to search for the Welsh colony left five hundred

years before by Madoc ap Owen Gwynedd, whom Southey strove to sing. He

was stone-mason, bookseller, land-surveyor and (in slave-owning days)

seller of sugar "uncontaminated by human gore." Eighty years ago he was

to be seen "on the highways and byways of Glamorgan—an elderly

pedestrian of rather low stature, wearing his long grey hair flowing

over his high coat-collar, which by constant antagonism had pushed up

his hat brim into a quaint angle of elevation behind. His countenance

was marked by a combination of quiet intelligence and quick

sensitiveness; the features angular, the lines deep, and the grey eye

benevolent but highly excitable. He was clad in rustic garb: the coat

blue, with goodly brass buttons, and the nether integument good homely

corduroy. He wore buckles in his shoes, and a pair of remarkably stout

well-set legs were vouchers for the great peripatetic powers he was well

known to possess. A pair of canvas wallets were slung over his

shoulders, one depending in front, the other behind. These contained a

change of linen and a few books and papers connected with his favourite

pursuits" (the study and collection of old Welsh manuscriptions for the

illustration of Welsh history). "He generally read as he walked, 'with

spectacles on nose,' and a pencil in his hand serving him to make notes

as they suggested themselves. A tall staff, which he grasped at about

the level of his ear, completed his travelling equipment." And in this

chair, they say, he spent a night, sleeping and reading alternately.

Outside, by the window, is the village idiot, with a smile like the

sound of bells ascending from a city buried in the sea.

Beautiful Wales · 第 4 / 6 章