We who remained in the city, to admire this pomp within the walls and

streets still more than could have been done in the open fields, were

very well entertained for a while by the barricade set up by the

citizens in the lanes, by the throng of people, and by the various jests

and improprieties which arose, till the ringing of bells and the thunder

of cannon announced to us the immediate approach of majesty. What must

have been particularly grateful to a Frankforter was, that on this

occasion, in the presence of so many sovereigns and their

representatives, the imperial city of Frankfort also appeared as a

little sovereign: for her equerry opened the procession; chargers with

armorial trappings, upon which the white eagle on a red field looked

very fine, followed him; then came attendants and officials, drummers

and trumpeters, and deputies of the council, accompanied by the clerks

of the council, in the city livery, on foot. Immediately behind these

were the three companies of citizen cavalry, very well mounted,--the

same that we had seen from our youth, at the reception of the escort,

and on other public occasions. We rejoiced in our participation of the

honor, and in our one hundred-thousandth part of a sovereignty which now

appeared in its full brilliancy. The different trains of the hereditary

imperial marshal, and of the envoys deputed by the six temporal

electors, marched after these step by step. None of them consisted of

less than twenty attendants and two state-carriages,--some, even, of a

greater number. The retinue of the spiritual electors was ever on the

increase,--their servants and domestic officers seemed innumerable: the

Elector of Cologne and the Elector of Treves had above twenty state-

carriages, and the Elector of Mentz quite as many alone. The servants,

both on horseback and on foot, were clothed most splendidly throughout:

the lords in the equipages, spiritual and temporal, had not omitted to

appear richly and venerably dressed, and adorned with all the badges of

their orders. The train of his imperial majesty now, as was fit,

surpassed all the rest. The riding-masters, the led horses, the

equipages, the shabracks and caparisons, attracted every eye; and the

sixteen six-horse gala-wagons of the imperial chamberlains, privy

councillors, high chamberlain, high stewards, and high equerry, closed,

with great pomp, this division of the procession, which, in spite of its

magnificence and extent, was still only to be the vanguard.

But now the line became concentrated more and more, while the dignity

and parade kept on increasing. For in the midst of a chosen escort of

their own domestic attendants, the most of them on foot, and a few on

horseback, appeared the electoral ambassadors, as well as the electors

in person, in ascending order, each one in a magnificent state-carriage.

Immediately behind the Elector of Mentz, ten imperial footmen, one and

forty lackeys, and eight /heyducks/ [Footnote: A class of

attendants dress in Hungarian costume.--TRANS.] announced their

majesties. The most magnificent state-carriage, furnished even at the

back part with an entire window of plate-glass, ornamented with

paintings, lacquer, carved work, and gilding, covered with red

embroidered velvet on the top and inside, allowed us very conveniently

to behold the emperor and king, the long-desired heads, in all their

glory. The procession was led a long, circuitous route, partly from

necessity, that it might be able to unfold itself, and partly to render

it visible to the great multitude of people. It had passed through

Sachsenhausen, over the bridge, up the Fahrgasse, then down the Zeile,

and turned towards the inner city through the Katharinenpforte, formerly

a gate, and, since the enlargement of the city, an open thoroughfare.

Here it had been happily considered, that, for a series of years, the

external grandeur of the world had gone on expanding, both in height and

breadth. Measure had been taken; and it was found that the present

imperial state-carriage could not, without striking its carved work and

other outward decorations, get through this gateway, through which so

many princes and emperors had gone backwards and forwards. They debated

the matter, and, to avoid an inconvenient circuit, resolved to take up

the pavements, and to contrive a gentle descent and ascent. With the

same view, they had also removed all the projecting eaves from the shops

and booths in the street, that neither crown nor eagle nor the genii

should receive any shock or injury.

Eagerly as we directed our eyes to the high personages when this

precious vessel with such precious contents approached us, we could not

avoid turning our looks upon the noble horses, their harness, and its

embroidery; but the strange coachmen and outriders, both sitting on the

horses, particularly struck us. They looked as if they had come from

some other nation, or even from another world, with their long black and

yellow velvet coats, and their caps with large plumes of feathers, after

the imperial-court fashion. Now the crowd became so dense that it was

impossible to distinguish much more. The Swiss guard on both sides of

the carriage; the hereditary marshal holding the Saxon sword upwards in

his right hand; the field-marshals, as leaders of the imperial guard,

riding behind the carriage; the imperial pages in a body; and, finally,

the imperial horse-guard (/Hatschiergarde/) itself, in black velvet

frocks (/Flügelröck/), with all the seams edged with gold, under

which were red coats and leather-colored camisoles, likewise richly

decked with gold. One scarcely recovered one's self from sheer seeing,

pointing, and showing, so that the scarcely less splendidly clad body-

guards of the electors were barely looked at; and we should, perhaps,

have withdrawn from the windows, if we had not wished to take a view of

our own magistracy, who closed the procession in their fifteen two-horse

coaches; and particularly the clerk of the council, with the city keys

on red velvet cushions. That our company of city grenadiers should cover

the rear seemed to us honorable enough, and we felt doubly and highly

edified as Germans and as Fraukforters by this great day,

We had taken our place in a house which the procession had to pass again

when it returned from the cathedral. Of religious services, of music, of

rites and solemnities, of addresses and answers, of propositions and

readings aloud, there was so much in church, choir, and conclave, before

it came to the swearing of the electoral capitulation, that we had time

enough to partake of an excellent collation, and to empty many bottles

to the health of our old and young ruler. The conversation, meanwhile,

as is usual on such occasions, reverted to the time past; and there were

not wanting aged persons who preferred that to the present,--at least,

with respect to a certain human interest and impassioned sympathy which

then prevailed. At the coronation of Francis the First all had not been

so settled as now; peace had not yet been concluded; France and the

Electors of Brandenburg and the Palatinate were opposed to the election;

the troops of the future emperor were stationed at Heidelberg, where he

had his headquarters; and the insignia of the empire, coming from Aix,

were almost carried off by the inhabitants of the Palatinate. Meanwhile,

negotiations went on; and on neither side was the affair conducted in

the strictest manner. Maria Theresa, though then pregnant, comes in

person to see the coronation of her husband, which is at last earned

into effect. She arrived at Aschaffenburg, and went on board a yacht in

order to repair to Frankfort. Francis, coming from Heidelberg, thinks to

meet his wife, but arrives too late: she has already departed. Unknown,

he jumps into a little boat, hastens alter her, reaches her ship; and

the loving pair is delighted at this surprising meeting. The story

spreads immediately; and all the world sympathizes with this tender

pair, so richly blessed with children, who have been so inseparable

since their union, that once, on a journey from Vienna to Florence, they

are forced to keep quarantine together on the Venetian border. Maria

Theresa is welcomed in the city with rejoicings: she enters the Roman

Emperor Inn, while the great tent for the reception of her husband is

erected on the Bornheim heath. There, of the spiritual electors, only

Mentz is found; and, of the ambassadors of the temporal electors, only

Saxony, Bohemia, and Hanover. The entrance begins, and what it may lack

of completeness and splendor is richly compensated by the presence of a

beautiful lady. She stands upon the balcony of the well-situated house,

and greets her husband with cries of "Vivat!" and clapping of hands: the

people joined, excited to the highest enthusiasm. As the great are,

after all, men, the citizen deems them big equals when he wishes to love

them; and that he can best do when he can picture them to himself as

loving husbands, tender parents, devoted brothers, and true friends. At

that time all happiness had been wished and prophesied; and to-day it

was seen fulfilled in the first-born son, to whom everybody was well

inclined on account of his handsome, youthful form, and upon whom the

world set the greatest hopes, on account of the great qualities that he

showed.

We had become quite absorbed in the past and future, when some friends

who came in recalled us to the present. They were of that class of

people who know the value of novelty, and therefore hasten to announce

it first. They were even able to tell of a fine humane trait in those

exalted personages whom we had seen go by with the greatest pomp. It had

been concerted, that on the way, between Heusenstamm and the great tent,

the emperor and king should find the Landgrave of Darmstadt in the

forest. This old prince, now approaching the grave, wished to see once

more the master to whom he had been devoted in former times. Both might

remember the day when the landgrave brought over to Heidelberg the

decree of the electors, choosing Francis as emperor, and replied to the

valuable presents he received with protestations of unalterable

devotion. These eminent persons stood in a grove of firs; and the

landgrave, weak with old age, supported himself against a pine, to

continue the conversation, which was not without emotion on both sides.

The place was afterwards marked in an innocent way, and we young people

sometimes wandered to it.

Thus several hours had passed in remembrance of the old and

consideration of the new, when the procession, though curtailed and more

compact, again passed before our eyes; and we were enabled to observe

and mark the detail more closely, and imprint it on our minds for the

future.

From that moment the city was in uninterrupted motion; for until each

and every one whom it behooved, and of whom it was required, had paid

their respects to the highest dignities, and exhibited themselves one by

one, there was no end to the marching to and fro: and the court of each

one of the high persons present could be very conveniently repeated in

detail.

Now, too, the insignia of the empire arrived. But, that no ancient usage

might be omitted even in this respect, they had to remain half a day

till late at night in the open field, on account of a dispute about

territory and escort between the Elector of Mentz and the city. The

latter yielded: the people of Mentz escorted the insignia as far as the

barricade, and so the affair terminated for this time.

In these days I did not come to myself. At home I had to write and copy;

every thing had to be seen: and so ended the month of March, the second

half of which had been so rich in festivals for us. I had promised

Gretchen a faithful and complete account of what had lately happened,

and of what was to be expected on the coronation-day. This great day

approached; I thought more of how I should tell it to her than of what

properly was to be told: all that came under my eyes and my pen I merely

worked up rapidly for this sole and immediate use. At last I reached her

residence somewhat late one evening, and was not a little proud to think

how my discourse on this occasion would be much more successful than the

first unprepared one. But a momentary incitement often brings us, and

others through us, more joy than the most deliberate purpose can afford.

I found, indeed, pretty nearly the same company; but there were some

unknown persons among them. They sat down to play, all except Gretchen

and her younger cousin, who remained with me at the slate. The dear girl

expressed most gracefully her delight that she, though a stranger, had

passed for a citizen on the election-day, and had taken part in that

unique spectacle. She thanked me most warmly for having managed to take

care of her, and for having been so attentive as to procure her, through

Pylades, all sorts of admissions by means of billets, directions,

friends, and intercessions.

She liked to hear about the jewels of the empire. I promised her that we

should, if possible, see these together. She made some jesting remarks

when she learned that the garments and crown had been tried on the young

king. I knew where she would be, to see the solemnities of the

coronation-day, and directed her attention to every thing that was

impending, and particularly to what might be minutely inspected from her

place of view.

Thus we forgot to think about time: it was already past midnight, and I

found that I unfortunately had not the house-key with me. I could not

enter the house without making the greatest disturbance. I communicated

my embarrassment to her. "After all," said she, "it will be best for the

company to remain together." The cousins and the strangers had already

had this in mind, because it was not known where they would be lodged

for the night. The matter was soon decided: Gretchen went to make some

coffee, after bringing in and lighting a large brass lamp, furnished

with oil and wick, because the candles threatened to burn out.

The coffee served to enliven us for several hours, but the game

gradually slackened; conversation failed; the mother slept in the great

chair; the strangers, weary from travelling, nodded here and there; and

Pylades and his fair one sat in a corner. She had laid her head on his

shoulder, and had gone to sleep; and he did not keep long awake. The

younger cousin, sitting opposite to us by the slate, had crossed his

arms before him, and slept with his face resting upon them. I sat in the

window-corner, behind the table, and Gretchen by me. We talked in a low

voice: but at last sleep overcame her also; she leaned her head on my

shoulder, and sank at once into a slumber. Thus I now sat, the only one

awake, in a most singular position, in which the kind brother of death

soon put me also to rest. I went to sleep; and, when I awoke, it was

already bright day. Gretchen was standing before the mirror arranging

her little cap: she was more lovely than ever, and, when I departed,

cordially pressed my hands. I crept home by a roundabout way; for, on

the side towards the little /Stag-ditch/, my father had opened a

sort of little peep-hole in the wall, not without the opposition of his

neighbor. This side we avoided when we wanted not to be observed by him

in coming home. My mother, whose mediation always came in well for us,

had endeavored to palliate my absence in the morning at breakfast, by

the supposition that I had gone out early; and I experienced no

disagreeable effects from this innocent night.

Taken as a whole, this infinitely various world which surrounded me

produced upon me but a very simple impression. I had no interest but to

mark closely the outside of the objects, no business but that with which

I had been charged by my father and Herr von Königsthal, by which,

indeed, I perceived the inner course of things. I had no liking but for

Gretchen, and no other view than to see and take in every thing

properly, that I might be able to repeat it with her, and explain it to

her. Often when a train was going by, I described it half aloud to

myself, to assure myself of all the particulars, and to be praised by my

fair one for this attention and accuracy: the applause and

acknowledgments of the others I regarded as a mere appendix.

I was indeed presented to many exalted and distinguished persons; but

partly, no one had time to trouble himself about others, and partly,

older people do not know at once how they should converse with a young

man and try him. I, on my side, was likewise not particularly skilful in

adapting myself to people. I generally won their favor, but not their

approbation. Whatever occupied me was completely present to me, but I

did not ask whether it might be also suitable to others. I was mostly

too lively or too quiet, and appeared either importunate or sullen, just

as persons attracted or repelled me; and thus I was considered to be

indeed full of promise, but at the same time was declared eccentric.

The coronation-day dawned at last on the 3d of April, 1764: the weather

was favorable, and everybody was in motion. I, with several of my

relations and friends, had been provided with a good place in one of the

upper stories of the Römer itself, where we might completely survey the

whole. We betook ourselves to the spot very early in the morning, and

from above, as in a bird's-eye view, contemplated the arrangements which

we had inspected more closely the day before. There was the newly

erected fountain, with two large tubs on the left and right, into which

the double-eagle on the post was to pour from its two beaks white wine

on this side, and red wine on that. There, gathered into a heap, lay the

oats: here stood the large wooden hut, in which we had several days

since seen the whole fat ox roasted and basted on a huge spit before a

charcoal fire. All the avenues leading out from the Römer, and from

other streets back to the Römer, were secured on both sides by barriers

and guards. The great square was gradually filled; and the waving and

pressure grew every moment stronger and more in motion, as the multitude

always, if possible, endeavored to reach the spot where some new scene

arose, and something particular was announced.

All this time there reigned a tolerable stillness; and, when the alarm-

bells were sounded, all the people seemed struck with terror and

amazement. What first attracted the attention of all who could overlook

the square from above, was the train in which the lords of Aix and

Nuremberg brought the crown-jewels to the cathedral. These, as palladia,

had been assigned the first place in the carriage; and the deputies sat

before them on the back-seat with becoming reverence. Now the three

electors betake themselves to the cathedral. After the presentation of

the insignia to the Elector of Mentz, the crown and sword are

immediately carried to the imperial quarters. The further arrangements

and manifold ceremonies occupied, in the interim, the chief persons, as

well as the spectators, in the church, as we other well-informed persons

could well imagine.

In the mean time the ambassadors drove before our eyes up to the Römer,

from which the canopy is carried by the under-officers into the imperial

quarters. The hereditary marshal, Count von Pappenheim, instantly mounts

his horse: he was a very handsome, slender gentleman, whom the Spanish

costume, the rich doublet, the gold mantle, the high, feathered hat, and

the loose, flying hair, became very well. He puts himself in motion;

and, amid the sound of all the bells, the ambassadors follow him on

horseback to the quarters of the emperor in still greater magnificence

than on the day of election. One would have liked to be there too; as

indeed, on this day, it would hare been altogether desirable to multiply

one's self. However, we told each other what was going on there. Now the

emperor is putting on his domestic robes, we said, a new dress, made

after the old Carolingian pattern. The hereditary officers receive the

insignia, and with them get on horseback. The emperor in his robes, the

Roman king in the Spanish habit, immediately mount their steeds; and,

while this is done, the endless procession which precedes them has

already announced them.

The eye was already wearied by the multitude of richly dressed

attendants and magistrates, and by the nobility, who, in stately

fashion, were moving along; but when the electoral envoys, the

hereditary officers, and at last, under the richly embroidered canopy,

borne by twelve /schöffen/ and senators, the emperor, in romantic

costume, and to the left, a little behind him, in the Spanish dress, his

son, slowly floated along on magnificently adorned horses, the eye was

no more sufficient for the sight. One would have liked to fix the scene,

but for a moment, by a magic charm; but the glory passed on without

stopping: and the space that was scarcely quitted was immediately filled

again by the crowd, which poured in like billows.

But now a new pressure ensued; for another approach from the market to

the Römer gate had to be opened, and a road of planks to be bridged over

it, on which the train returning from the cathedral was to walk.

What passed within the cathedral, the endless ceremonies which precede

and accompany the anointing, the crowning, the dubbing of knighthood,--

all this we were glad to hear told afterwards by those who had

sacrificed much else to be present in the church.

The rest of us, in the interim, partook of a frugal repast; for in this

festal day we had to be contented with cold meat. But, on the other

hand, the best and oldest wine had been brought out of all the family

cellars; so that, in this respect at least, we celebrated the ancient

festival in ancient style.

In the square, the sight most worth seeing was now the bridge, which had

been finished, and covered with orange and white cloth; and we who had

stared at the emperor, first in his carriage and then on horseback, were

now to admire him walking on foot. Singularly enough, the last pleased

us the most; for we thought that in this way he exhibited himself both

in the most natural and in the most dignified manner.

Older persons, who were present at the coronation of Francis the First,

related that Maria Theresa, beautiful beyond measure, had looked on this

solemnity from a balcony window of the Frauenstein house, close to the

Römer. As her consort returned from the cathedral in his strange

costume, and seemed to her, so to speak, like a ghost of Charlemagne, he

had, as if in jest, raised both his hands, and shown her the imperial

globe, the sceptre, and the curious gloves, at which she had broken out

into immoderate laughter, which served for the great delight and

edification of the crowd, which was thus honored with a sight of the

good and natural matrimonial understanding between the most exalted

couple of Christendom. But when the empress, to greet her consort, waved

her handkerchief, and even shouted a loud /vivat/ to him, the

enthusiasm and exultation of the people was raised to the highest, so

that there was no end to the cheers of joy.

Now the sound of bells, and the van of the long train which gently made

its way over the many-colored bridge, announced that all was done. The

attention was greater than ever, and the procession more distinct than

before, particularly for us, since it now came directly up to us. We saw

both, and the whole of the square, which was thronged with people,

almost as if on a ground-plan. Only at the end the magnificence was too

much crowded: for the envoys; the hereditary officers; the emperor and

king, under the canopy (/Baldachin/); the three spiritual electors,

who immediately followed; the /schöffen/ and senators, dressed in

black; the gold-embroidered canopy (/Himmel/),--all seemed only one

mass, which, moved by a single will, splendidly harmonious, and thus

stepping from the temple amid the sound of the bells, beamed towards us

as something holy.

A politico-religious ceremony possesses an infinite charm. We behold

earthly majesty before our eyes, surrounded by all the symbols of its

power; but, while it bends before that of heaven, it brings to our minds

the communion of both. For even the individual can only prove his

relationship with the Deity by subjecting himself and adoring.

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