FURNITURE
Some article of furniture is frequently one of the first objects upon
which the beginner (particularly the amateur of mature years) tries his
hand; and boys, as well as their elders, sometimes confidently undertake
pieces of cabinet-work which would tax to the utmost the skill of an
experienced cabinet-maker, only to be discouraged by the unsatisfactory
result.
Do not be beguiled by the captivating sketches and descriptions in the
popular magazines and papers which tell you how someone, at an expense
of perhaps only $2.98, easily made a roomful of desirable furniture out
of packing-cases, old bedsteads, barrels, soap-boxes, broomsticks, and
the like, with only the household hammer, saw, and screw-driver, and a
liberal supply of putty, coloured varnish, and the occasional help of
the "village carpenter."
That sort of work does very well for your feminine relatives if they
wish to amuse themselves in such ways or to contrive makeshifts to save
the expense of furniture made in the usual way. You can very well help
them in such work, or do it for them, and some very neat, cheap, and
serviceable things can be made of such materials (particularly with the
use of cloth)--but that is not the way for _you_ to begin your
cabinet-making. Learn to do good, plain, simple, useful work in the
simplest, most straightforward, practical, _workmanlike_ way. When you
can do that, if you wish to exercise your ingenuity in patching up
useful articles from discarded ones you will know how to do it properly.
Be sure to begin with simple articles, avoiding attempts at elaborate
decoration. Do not spend your time in making a useless object merely
because you think it is pretty. Think first whether your design is
suited for the purpose intended. If you start to make a case for your
books, select or make your design accordingly, and do not be misled, by
the multitude of overelaborated articles with which the market is
flooded, into making a parlour bric-à-brac cabinet, all built up of
turning, and jig-sawing, and machine-made carvings, too complicated and
fragile for practical use, with the result that the books continue to be
stored on a closet shelf or on the floor.
Next look to the block-form or general proportions of the object. The
importance of this is often wholly overlooked by the average
amateur,--sometimes because he is too engrossed in trying to make the
details pretty,--but it is essential in making a handsome piece of
furniture. No amount of exquisite carving, inlaying, or decoration of
any kind (however beautiful in itself) will make an ill-shaped, badly
proportioned article a thing of beauty; while a well-shaped and
well-proportioned object will be pleasing to the eye even if free from
decoration of any kind.
Of course, no rule can be given for designing a handsome piece of
furniture any more than for painting a beautiful picture, but when you
have sketched out the general shape and proportions and think you have
done as well as you can, there is one thing it is well to bear in
mind--that the average amateur is much more likely to spoil the
appearance of his work by adding too much so-called ornamentation than
by leaving the work too plain. When you become proficient enough to add
carving, or other form of decoration, to your work, by all means use any
skill you may have in such ways, but even then remember not to use such
ornamentation too freely. Avoid "gingerbread" work, meaningless
jig-sawed decorations, and machine-made carvings, turned out by the
gross.
Look at some of your great-grandmother's furniture (if you are fortunate
enough to be able to do so) and think how long it has lasted, and
compare it with the cheap modern furniture after the latter has been in
use for a few years. How much of the latter would be in existence now if
it had been made when the ancestral articles were? The durability of the
old things is partly due to the quality of the wood and its seasoning.
The use of whole pieces (instead of scraps of all kinds of stuff glued
up with cheap glue), the way the articles were put together, and the
generally honest work put into them had much to do with it.
Bear in mind in undertaking a piece of cabinet-work that you must hold
yourself to a higher standard in the matter of accuracy of detail, in
order to produce a really satisfactory result, than is necessary for
much of the other work often done by amateurs. Many slight inaccuracies,
which are of little consequence in the rougher kinds of work, become
such gaping and conspicuous defects in cabinet-work as to detract much
from the satisfaction that should be taken in home-made articles.
Remember, then, that while it is easy to make your furniture strong, it
is by no means easy to produce close, accurate joints, smooth, true
surfaces, square, clean-cut edges, and a good, smooth finish. Choose,
therefore, simple forms, easily put together, for your early attempts;
for it is much better to make a modest and unpretentious article well
than to make an elaborate one badly.
First and foremost, when you come to the actual work, use thoroughly
seasoned wood. This is essential to making permanently satisfactory
furniture, as you will learn after you have spent much time in making an
article out of half-seasoned stock, only to see the ruin of your
carefully executed work begin as soon as the finish is dry, or even
before.
Although it is very easy to tell you to use nothing but properly
seasoned stock, you will doubtless sometimes be deceived, however, as it
is by no means an easy matter for the beginner to determine; but you can
at least try your best to get wood in suitable condition, for it will be
time well spent. (Read the remarks on seasoning in Chapter III.)
Be content with the more easily worked woods in your early attempts. Do
not buy highly figured, heavy, and hard San Domingo mahogany (no matter
how beautiful) for your first table or bookcase--nor even quartered oak,
nor mottled walnut burl, nor wavy maple--but begin with plain,
straight-grained material, easy to work.
White pine is often considered rather cheap and common in appearance,
but it is suitable for many things in the way of furniture. It is one of
the best woods to "stand," or hold its shape, and if not desired of the
natural colour (which, is, however, suitable and attractive for some
objects) it can be painted. It can also be stained, but is not to be
compared with whitewood in this respect.
Whitewood is, like pine, easy to work, durable, can be obtained in wide
boards, can be painted, and takes a stain exceedingly well.
Black walnut is good to work and is well suited for furniture, though
its sombre hue is not always desirable.
Cherry, when soft and straight-grained, is easy to work and is often
(when highly figured or wavy) one of the most beautiful woods. It is
easy to finish.
Mahogany is a wood of great beauty and durability, and holds its shape
exceedingly well, but the beginner should confine himself at first to
the lighter, softer, straight-grained varieties, which can be easily
obtained. You can then try the more highly figured and harder kinds,
which will tax your skill in smoothing them.
Oak in its softer, straight-grained forms is well suited to the work of
the beginner. It is durable, and an article made of oak will stand more
abuse without serious defacement than most of the other woods used for
furniture. When quarter-sawed it is more difficult to smooth than plain,
straight-grained oak, but as you acquire skill you will find quartered
oak one of the most satisfactory woods. Oak can be stained if desired.
Many other kinds of wood are sometimes used, as sycamore, ash, birch,
beech, maple, rosewood, butternut, ebony, etc., but these woods you can
try for yourself, if you wish, as you progress in skill, and thus learn
their peculiar characteristics.
An important point, not always realised by the amateur, is that the
stock for good furniture should be planed true, that is, free from
winding. Buy stock that is as true as you can find (see Chapter III.)
and have it planed to be as true as possible. Have as much of this
truing done by machine as you can afford, for it is not worth while to
spend an hour in working down a surface by hand (see _Truing Surfaces_,
in Part V.) when a machine will do it in five minutes. There are, of
course, cases in which this accuracy is not essential,--and judgment
must be used, as in all intelligent work,--but, as a rule, it is highly
important that the surfaces should be reasonably true if you wish to do
your work as it should be done. The pieces, when fitted, should come
together easily and naturally, and not require to be sprung or twisted
or bent in order to be able to put the article together.
Your furniture should always be hand-planed and scraped, for, though the
slight hollows and ridges left by the planing-machine may not be
noticeable while the wood is in its natural state, as soon as the
surface is finished and begins to have a lustre these inequalities
become conspicuous. This applies to any small irregularities of the
surface. You cannot get the surface too smooth. You will be surprised at
first to see how noticeable slight defects in the surface become in the
finished work.
Curved edges occur often in furniture. Many of these curves can be cut
with a turning-saw or a keyhole- and compass-saw, but the easiest way
(and the most accurate, until you have acquired considerable skill with
the saw) is to have them cut at a mill by a jig-saw or band-saw at but
slight expense. Have a piece of waste wood put on the under side to
prevent the burr, or ragged edge, left by the sawing. These curves can
be smoothed with the spoke-shave alone, or spoke-shave and file, or file
alone, according to the conditions, as you will soon learn by
experience, the final finishing of the surface being given with fine
sandpaper.
Put the different parts of your article of furniture completely together
once (without glue or nails) to see that everything fits right, that the
joints close properly, and that the whole job is as it should be, before
putting together permanently.
This often seems to the amateur a needless precaution (and it
occasionally is), but, although it takes some time, it is the practice
with skilled workmen and therefore a precaution which should not be
neglected by the beginner. You will discover the importance of this when
you carelessly assume that all the parts of a writing-desk, for
instance, will come together properly, or that you can easily correct
errors as you go along, only to find, when you have the work nearly put
together that something is wrong. In the effort to mend the trouble you
will be apt to loosen the parts already fastened, or will have to take
the whole apart, which, when glue or nails are used, is particularly
discouraging, and apt to damage the quality of the work.
Be particular to clamp the parts of your work together thoroughly when
using glue and to allow time enough before removing the clamps (see
_Clamps_ and _Gluing_).
Care should be taken in putting your work together to get it "square,"
that is, to prove the accuracy of the right angles. In some cases this
is of course essential to having the work come together at all. In
others, the appearance will be much injured if the article tips to one
side or is slanting or twisted. In all cases it is essential to the
proper closing up of the joints. It will not do to assume, as the
beginner often naturally does, that because the parts of the work seem
to be accurately made that the whole, when put together, will,
therefore, be square. It must be tested. You will be surprised to see
how much "out of square" and how winding the result of your most careful
work will sometimes be if you do not test it as you put the parts
together. In addition to the obvious way of applying the square (see
_Square_) to the angles, using the large steel square when you can:
there are many cases in which measuring diagonals is a good test,
altering the angles of the work until the two opposite diagonals are
equal, when the work will, of course, be rectangular. This is a good way
for large "case" work, using a stick, or fitting two adjustable sticks,
after the manner described on page 167, between the angles, when the
latter can be altered until the diagonals are equal.
At the same time that you are testing for squareness you must also look
out for winding, by sighting across the front or back, using
winding-sticks, if necessary.
When your work has a back fitted in, as in the case of a bookcase or
cabinet, this will help you much in the final adjustment.
Do not attempt to put your case work together in an upright position,
but upon horses horizontally, or flat upon its back or face.
It is well to use corner-blocks in the angles of your furniture, in
places where they will not show (see _Corner-blocks_, in Part V.).
After you begin to acquire some proficiency in your work, a little
beading or chamfering can sometimes be used to good advantage, but it is
well not to be too lavish with this kind of ornamentation.
Wall-cabinets and other articles to be hung on the wall can be neatly
attached to the wall by brass mirror-plates screwed upon the back. These
should usually be sunk into the wood so that the back will be smooth.
Your furniture can be finished with oil or wax alone, or with shellac or
varnish, as described in Part V. In the case of articles to be hung
against wall-paper or where any delicate fabric will be exposed, it is
well to avoid finishing with oil alone unless the greatest care is used,
for a very slight surplus of oil will quickly soil the paper. For the
work of the amateur nothing is better than shellac.
When your work is made of parts which can be readily separated, such
parts as are joined without glue or nails, it is best to take the work
apart before finishing. Unhinge doors and take off locks, escutcheons,
mirror-plates, handles, and the like. Take out removable shelves, backs,
and all detachable parts. Finish all these parts separately and then put
the work together again. You can finish the separate parts better and
more easily, but of course this can only be done with such parts as are
readily separable.
In some cases it is desirable to stain your furniture, but as a rule you
cannot improve on the natural colouring, which deepens and mellows with
age. If you wish mahogany-coloured furniture, use mahogany, or, if you
cannot afford that, simply paint or stain some cheaper wood of the
desired colour, but do not try to imitate the grain of the mahogany.
There are two objections to these attempts at imitation. First, they are
not honest; and, in the second place, the deception is usually a
failure.
Finally, be simple and honest in all your designing, your construction
(which above all things should be strong and durable), and your
finishing. Do not put in your room an object which appears at a distance
of ten feet to be a mahogany or black walnut centre-table, but which on
closer examination turns out to be a pine washstand in disguise.
There are, as you know, hundreds of articles of household utility, other
than those here given, which are suitable for the amateur to make, but
it is hoped that the suggestions about those which are included in this
chapter will be of service in the construction of other objects.
* * * * *
[Illustration FIG. 280.]
=Book-Rack.=--A simple rack for books (Fig. 280) can be of any length
desired, about six inches wide, and of half-inch +stock+ (or slightly
thinner), but the dimensions can be varied according to circumstances.
* * * * *
Before beginning work read carefully _Marking_, _Rule_, _Square_, _Saw_,
_Plane_, in Part V., and look up any other references.
Be sure that the bottoms of the ends are accurately cut. The other edges
can be rounded if you wish (see _Spokeshave_ and _File_). The hinges
should be sunk in the wood, so that they will not injure the books (see
_Hinges_).
See end of introduction to this chapter for directions about smoothing,
putting together, and finishing. See also _Scraper_, _Sandpaper_, and
_Finishing_, in Part V.
* * * * *
=Desk-Rack.=--An easily made arrangement to put on the back of a table
or desk is shown in Fig. 281, and can be made of stock of from 1/2" to
7/8" thickness, according to the size of the rack.
[Illustration FIG. 281.]
* * * * *
Before beginning work read carefully _Marking_, _Rule_, _Square_, _Saw_,
_Plane_, in Part V., and look up any other references.
First make the two boxes (see _Box-making_, page 219), and then the
shelf above them. This can be fastened to the tops of the boxes by
screws from underneath. The edge can be slightly rounded. The rail or
guard at the back and ends of the shelf should be made independently.
The back and ends can be joined as shown in Fig. 282, and the whole then
fastened to the shelf by screws (see _Boring_ and _Screws_) from
underneath before fastening the shelf to the boxes, or it can be
dowelled on, as shown in Fig. 282a (see _Dowelling_).
[Illustration FIG. 282.]
[Illustration FIG. 282A.]
Partitions can be fitted in the boxes, forming pigeon-holes or
compartments, if desired. These partitions can be nailed in place or, to
be more workmanlike, can be fitted in grooves (see _Grooving_ and
_Shelves_).
See end of introduction to this chapter for directions about smoothing,
putting together, and finishing. See also _Scraper_, _Sandpaper_, and
_Finishing_, in Part V.
* * * * *
=Hanging Book-Shelf.=--A wall-shelf (Fig. 283) is useful and good
practice for the amateur. It should not be made too deep (from front to
back). Half-inch stock is heavy enough, if the shelf is not more than
two feet long.
[Illustration FIG. 283.]
* * * * *
Before beginning work read carefully _Marking_, _Rule_, _Square_, _Saw_,
_Plane_, in Part V., and look up any other references.
This shelf can be simply put together by nailing, setting the nails
carefully (see _Nailing_ and _Nail-set_). Carefully mark lines (using
the square) by which to nail the pieces in their proper places. It is
not worth while to use glue if the parts are put together in this way. A
stronger and more workmanlike way is to groove the lower shelf into the
sides and the sides into the upper shelf (see _Grooving_). In this case
glue should be used and the work tightly clamped (see _Gluing_ and
_Clamps_). It will be much stronger to fit a back between the two
shelves and the sides. This should properly be set in a rabbet cut
around the space, as shown in Fig. 284 (see _Rabbet_).
[Illustration FIG. 284.]
See end of introduction to this chapter for directions about smoothing,
putting together, and finishing. See also _Scraper_, _Sandpaper_, and
_Finishing_, in Part V.
* * * * *
=Wall-Cabinet.=--An open cabinet or hanging case for books, magazines,
or other small articles (Fig. 285) can be of any desired proportions,
but should not be very large. Half-inch stock is sufficiently thick.
[Illustration FIG. 285.]
* * * * *
Before beginning work read carefully _Marking_, _Rule_, _Square_, _Saw_,
_Plane_, in Part V., and look up any other references.
This case should have a back. Rabbets should be cut to receive the back,
as in the case of the wall-shelf just shown (see _Rabbet_), the top and
middle shelves being narrower than the lower shelf by the thickness of
the back.
This case can simply be nailed together (see _Nailing_ and _Nail-set_),
but it will be better to groove the shelves into the sides (see
_Grooving_).
See end of introduction to this chapter for directions about smoothing,
putting together, and finishing. See also _Scraper_, _Sandpaper_, and
_Finishing_, in Part V.
* * * * *
=Hanging Bookcase.=--A simple and useful case for the wall (Fig. 286)
can be made on much the same principle as the small case just shown. It
is well not to make such cases very large, and, unless quite small,
stock from 3/4" to 7/8" in thickness will be suitable.
* * * * *
Before beginning work read carefully _Marking_, _Rule_, _Square_, _Saw_,
_Plane_, in Part V., and look up any other references.
Instead of a back, strips can be screwed on vertically (Fig. 286), being
sunk so as to be flush with the back of the case (Fig. 287).
* * * * *
[Illustration FIG. 286.]
[Illustration FIG. 287.]
See end of introduction to this chapter for directions about smoothing,
putting together, and finishing. See also _Scraper_, _Sandpaper_, and
_Finishing_, in Part V.
* * * * *
=Wall-Shelves.=--An easily made arrangement is suggested in Fig. 288.
The design can easily be varied if you wish.
* * * * *
Before beginning work read carefully _Marking_, _Rule_, _Square_, _Saw_,
_Plane_, in Part V., and look up any other references.
The construction is extremely simple, the shelves being merely screwed
on from the back.
[Illustration FIG. 288.]
Get out the back and the shelves, and smooth them. Mark lines across the
face of the former at the places for the shelves, bore holes through the
back from the face for the screws (see _Boring_), and countersink the
holes on the back (see _Countersink_). Screw the shelves in place (see
_Screws_) to see that everything is right, then take apart and finish.
See end of introduction to this chapter for directions about smoothing,
putting together, and finishing. See also _Scraper_, _Sandpaper_, and
_Finishing_, in Part V.
* * * * *
=Pipe-Rack.=--A modification of the shelf arrangement just described
makes a good rack for pipes and other articles for smoking (Fig. 289).
[Illustration FIG. 289.]
* * * * *
Before beginning work read carefully _Marking_, _Rule_, _Square_, _Saw_,
_Plane_, in Part V., and look up any other references.
This differs from the article just described only in the shape of the
shelves, which have openings in the edge for holding pipes. These
openings can be made either with a fine saw or by boring holes and
cutting in to them from the edge (Fig. 290).
[Illustration FIG. 290.]
See end of introduction to this chapter for directions about smoothing,
putting together, and finishing. See also _Scraper_, _Sandpaper_, and
_Finishing_, in Part V.
* * * * *
=Wall-Shelves.=--A quite simple form is shown in Fig. 291, having a
small box with lid. A combination of this form with the design for a
pipe-rack can easily be made if desired.
* * * * *
Before beginning work read carefully _Marking_, _Rule_, _Square_, _Saw_,
_Plane_, in Part V., and look up any other references.
The construction is plain from the cases already described. The hinges
should be sunk in the edge of the lid (see _Hinges_).
See end of introduction to this chapter for directions about smoothing,
putting together, and finishing. See also _Scraper_, _Sandpaper_, and
_Finishing_, in Part V.
[Illustration FIG. 291.]
* * * * *
=Wall-Cabinet.=--The cabinet shown in Fig. 292 should be rather small,
for if large it will look clumsy. It can be made of half-inch stock.
[Illustration FIG. 292.]
Before beginning work read carefully _Marking_, _Rule_, _Square_, _Saw_,
_Plane_, in Part V., and look up any other references.
The construction is quite similar to the preceding cases.
If you have no board wide enough for the back, two can be joined (see
_Jointing_ and _Gluing_).
The cupboard is simply a box without front or back (see _Box-making_,
page 219) screwed to the back from behind (see _Boring_ and _Screws_).
The shelves at the sides of the cupboard and the bracket underneath it
can be screwed from the back and from the inside of the cabinet, as in
the preceding cases.
The door (see _Doors_) can be fitted and hung (see _Hinges_) after the
whole has been put together.
See end of introduction to this chapter for directions about smoothing,
putting together, and finishing. See also _Scraper_, _Sandpaper_, and
_Finishing_, in Part V.
* * * * *
=Corner-Shelves or Cabinets.=--A simple form of hanging corner-shelves
is shown in Fig. 293. This can be of any size, of course, but such
articles look clumsy if made very large. Half-inch stock is heavy enough
unless the case is quite large, when 3/4" or 7/8" thickness can be used.
[Illustration FIG. 293.]
* * * * *
Before beginning work read carefully _Marking_, _Rule_, _Square_, _Saw_,
_Plane_, in Part V., and look up any other references.
[Illustration FIG. 294.]
One of the sides can be made wider than the other by the thickness of
the stock, so as to lap over and secure a tight and strong joint at the
back. The top board (with rounding front) can simply be nailed down on
the sides (see _Nailing_ and _Nail-set_), or, to be more workmanlike, a
rabbet (Fig. 294) can be cut around the edge of the top on the under
side into which to fit the sides, which can be screwed in place (see
_Rabbet_, _Boring_, _Countersink_, and _Screws_). This rabbet should not
come quite to the front edge of the top.
The shelves can be screwed in place from the back (see _Screws_),
carefully marking lines with the square, for boring the holes, before
putting the case together, and countersinking +the holes+ upon
the back.
This case (being fastened by screws) can be taken apart for finishing.
See end of introduction to this chapter for directions about smoothing,
putting together, and finishing. See also _Scraper_, _Sandpaper_, and
_Finishing_, in Part V.
* * * * *
[Illustration FIG. 295.]
A standing cabinet like Fig. 295 can be made in the same manner as the
hanging cabinet just shown, but can, of course, be larger. Stock from
3/4" to 7/8" in thickness can be used. The rail at the top can be made
and put on as directed for the desk-rack shown in Figs. 281 and 282.
* * * * *
=Medicine-Cabinet.=--Any small cabinet can be used for medicines by
simply arranging the shelves in any convenient manner. A simple way is
to have a series of horizontal grooves on the inside of each side, into
which the shelves can be slipped at any desired distance apart. A design
for an easily constructed medicine-cabinet for the wall is shown in
Figs. 296 and 297.
[Illustration FIG. 296.]
* * * * *
Before beginning work read carefully _Marking_, _Rule_, _Square_, _Saw_,
_Plane_, in Part V., and look up any other references.
A good size for a small cabinet is to have the main box-part, the
cabinet proper, about 15" wide, 20" high, and 7" deep. It can be made of
1/2" stock. The construction is like that of the other cases already
shown. The joints should properly be grooved (see _Grooving_ and
_Gluing_), but the whole case can be nailed together, although the
result will be inferior (see _Nailing_ and _Nail-set_). The back should
be set in a rabbet as in the cases already shown. The arrangement of the
hinges is shown in the illustration (see _Hinges_).
The partitions can be of thin stock (1/4" or 5/16"). The doors can have
thick cleats, shaped as shown in Fig. 297 (enlarged in Fig. 297a), with
holes bored down from the top for homoeopathic phials. Care must be
taken not to bore the holes through (see _Boring_). Stop boring before
the spur comes through and clean out the bottoms of the holes with a
gouge.
A small drawer can be fitted to one of the small compartments, as in
Fig. 297 (see _Drawers_). If the edges of the doors are made to lap
slightly where they come together, rabbets being cut on opposite sides
of the edges (Fig. 298), the joint will be tighter, but a little space
must be allowed or the doors may bind. The rest of the details are like
those of the cases already described.
[Illustration FIG. 297.]
See end of introduction to this chapter for directions about smoothing,
putting together, and finishing. See also _Scraper_, _Sandpaper_, and
_Finishing_, in Part. V.
[Illustration FIG. 297a.]
[Illustration FIG. 298.]
* * * * *
=Bookcases.=--A plain case (Fig. 299) can be made of any desired size.
If quite small 3/4" stock can be used, but ordinarily 7/8" thickness
will be best. The method of construction is practically the same as in
the cases already described.
* * * * *
Before beginning work read carefully _Marking_, _Rule_, _Square_, _Saw_,
_Plane_, in Part V., and look up any other references.
The shelves can all be fastened in, if desired, but a good way is to
groove the top and bottom shelves into the sides and make those between
movable (see _Shelves_, in Part V.).
[Illustration FIG. 299.]
[Illustration FIG. 300.]
The back can be fitted by simply cutting a rabbet on the back edge of
each side for the entire length (see _Rabbet_), and making the shelves
of such a width that they will not project beyond the rabbet. A narrow
piece can be screwed from the back lengthways, above the upper shelf, as
shown in Fig. 300. The rest of the back can then be screwed in place
(see _Boring_ and _Screws_). The back, being too wide to be made of one
board, can very well (for a plain case of this sort) be of matched
boards or sheathing.[24] Do not force the back too tightly into
place,--that is, crossways of the boards. Allow a little play for the
expansion and contraction.
See end of introduction to this chapter for directions about smoothing,
putting together, and finishing. See also _Scraper_, _Sandpaper_, and
_Finishing_, in Part V.
* * * * *
A "knock-down" method of putting together with tenons and wooden pins
(Fig. 301) is not very difficult, but requires care and accuracy. In the
case of the bookcase just shown, the upper and lower shelves can be
pinned through the sides, which will hold the case firmly, and the other
shelves can be movable (see _Shelves_). A case fastened in this way can
be readily taken apart. This method can be applied to other designs for
bookcases and cabinets.
[Illustration FIG. 301.]
* * * * *
Before beginning work read carefully _Marking_, _Rule_, _Square_, _Saw_,
_Plane_, in Part V., and look up any other references.
The general principle is that of the mortise and tenon (see
_Mortising_). If you cut the mortises for the pins before cutting the
tenons on the ends of the shelves you will avoid the liability of
splitting the tenons. The pins should taper and the angles of the pins
and tenons be very slightly bevelled, that is, the sharp edge taken off.
The ends of these shelves can be slightly "cut under" or bevelled
inwards (see Fig. 302, which is exaggerated), on the same principle that
the ends of floor boards and the like are sometimes slightly bevelled,
to ensure a closely fitting joint.
[Illustration FIG. 302.]
See end of introduction to this chapter for directions about smoothing,
putting together, and finishing. See also _Scraper_, _Sandpaper_, and
_Finishing_, in Part V.
* * * * *
A good form for an open bookcase suitable for the beginner to make is
shown in Fig. 303. This design is suitable for a low, or dwarf, bookcase
of whatever length may be desired. If of quite small size it can be made
of 7/8" stock throughout, but in most cases a thin plank (perhaps 1-1/4"
to 1-1/2" thick) had best be used for the ends.
A curtain can be added if desired.
* * * * *
Before beginning work read carefully _Marking_, _Rule_, _Square_, _Saw_,
_Plane_, in Part V., and look up any other references.
The curves of the ends can be sawed by hand (see _Turning-saw_ and
_Keyhole and Compass Saw_), or better by band-saw and jig-saw at a mill,
and smoothed with spoke-shave and file (see _Spokeshave_ and _File_).
The shelves (at least the upper and lower ones) should be grooved into
the sides and glued (see _Grooving_ and _Gluing_), although, as in the
other cases already described, nails can be used, but the result will be
inferior (see _Nailing_ and _Nail-set_).
The plainness of the upright edges of the ends can be relieved by a
little beading (Fig. 305), which you can do yourself or have moulded at
the mill (see _Beading_).
[Illustration FIG. 303.]
Little brackets, screwed under the lower shelf at each end, as shown in
Fig. 306, add to the stiffness of the case. A back can be fitted into
rabbets as described above, but in this case it had best not come above
the top shelf, a rabbet being cut on the under edge of the latter as
well as in the sides. The bottom shelf can simply be made narrower and
without a rabbet.
See end of introduction to this chapter for directions about smoothing,
putting together, and finishing. See also _Scraper_, _Sandpaper_, and
_Finishing_, in Part V.
* * * * *
The bookcase shown in Fig. 304 can be of any desired size and
proportions. It can be of 7/8" stock, although the upright ends can well
be of thin plank.
[Illustration FIG. 304.]
* * * * *
Before beginning work read carefully _Marking_, _Rule_, _Square_, _Saw_,
_Plane_, in Part V., and look up any other references.
This case can simply be nailed together (see _Nailing_ and _Nail-set_),
but the more workmanlike way is to groove the sides into the top and the
bottom shelf into the sides (see _Grooving_). The second shelf from the
top can be grooved into the sides, and the upright partition forming the
cupboard can also be grooved in place. This process involves careful
laying out and accurate cutting. The other shelves can be removable. The
base-board can be bevelled or curved on the top edge (or moulded by
machine) and can be mitred at the corners. It can be fastened with fine
nails (see _Nailing_ and _Nail-set_). The front piece can be glued as
well as the mitred joints. A moulding can be nailed around the top as
shown, being mitred at the corners.[25]
The other details of construction do not differ from those of the cases
just given, except in the matter of making and fitting the door, for
which see _Doors_ in Part V.
A common way of making the sides of such cases is to make the side
itself of board thickness, and to face the front edge with a strip
(which can be glued on) from 1-1/4" to 2" wide, according to the size of
the case, in the way shown in Fig. 305 (see _Gluing_). This gives a
wider edge to the side and the shelves can fit behind the facing strip.
Beading can be worked on this strip, as shown (see _Beading_).
[Illustration FIG. 305.]
See end of introduction to this chapter for directions about smoothing,
putting together, and finishing. See also _Scraper_, _Sandpaper_, and
_Finishing_, in Part V.
* * * * *
=Desk and Bookcase.=--Various combinations of book-shelves with a desk
can be arranged. A useful form for a small one is shown in Fig. 306. The
height is of course regulated by the necessary position of the desk-lid
when dropped. The general principles of the construction are the same as
those of the cases already shown.
* * * * *
Before beginning work read carefully _Marking_, _Rule_, _Square_, _Saw_,
_Plane_, in Part V., and look up any other references.
The wing, or attachment at the side, can be grooved into the side of the
main part.
[Illustration FIG. 306.]
The back should reach across from one part to the other, which will give
stiffness to the whole.
The desk-lid, which should be set in perhaps 3/8" from the front edge of
the case, can be prevented from dropping too far by chains fastened
inside to the lid and the sides of the case. Various other arrangements
can be bought for holding a desk-lid in the proper place.
The inside of the lid must of course be smooth. If panelled as in Fig.
306 the panel must be thick enough to be flush with the frame on the
inside (see _Doors_). There will be more or less of a crack around this
panel, but this is unavoidable. Lids of this sort are sometimes made
with a smooth surface (without frame or panelling), but this requires
some form of cleating to prevent warping (see _Cleats_).
The small brackets under the lower shelf will help to stiffen the case.
A few shelves can easily be arranged in the desk compartment. If you
wish a number of pigeon-holes and compartments, a good way for the
amateur to fit these is to make an independent case of pigeon-holes and
compartments, without front or back, of thin wood (perhaps 1/4"), and of
such outside dimensions that it will just slip into the desk-space. This
open box-like arrangement can be nailed together with fine brads.
The best way to make it is by fitting all the divisions into grooves,
but to do this by hand requires more work and care than can be expected
of the ordinary amateur. The grooving can be done by machine. A
convenient arrangement is to have rows of parallel grooves into which
the division boards can at any time be slipped to form compartments of
any desired size.
See end of introduction to this chapter for directions about smoothing,
putting together, and finishing. See also _Scraper_, _Sandpaper_, and
_Finishing_, in Part V.
* * * * *
=Music-Case.=--The construction of the form shown in Fig. 307 is like
that of the examples already shown. The sides, top, and bottom should be
of 3/4" or 7/8" stock, but the shelves can be thinner.
* * * * *
Before beginning work read carefully _Marking_, _Rule_, _Square_, _Saw_,
_Plane_, in Part V., and look up any other references.
This case can be simply nailed together (see _Nailing_ and _Nail-set_),
but the more workmanlike way is to groove the bottom shelf into the
sides and the sides into the top, as in the cases already shown (see
_Grooving_).
A moulding at the top can be made as in the bookcase shown in Fig. 304.
For various ways of putting in the shelves, see _Shelves_, in Part V.
The back can be thinner (1/4") and should be fitted in a rabbet cut
around, as already shown in the illustrations.
See end of introduction to this chapter for directions about smoothing,
putting together, and finishing. See also _Scraper_, _Sandpaper_, and
_Finishing_, in Part V.
[Illustration FIG. 307.]
* * * * *
=Plant-Stands.=--The form shown in Fig. 308 is of quite simple
construction and is useful to hold a large flower-pot. It should be made
of 7/8" stock. The top can be from 8" to 12" square.
* * * * *
Before beginning work read carefully _Marking_, _Rule_, _Square_, _Saw_,
_Plane_, in Part V., and look up any other references.
[Illustration FIG. 308.]
Simply make a box (see _Box-making_, page 219), without top and bottom,
with the grain of the four sides running up and down. Before putting
together saw the curves at the bottom. As the grain of the four pieces
all runs up and down, these sides can be glued together without nailing
(see _Gluing_). Screw four cleats around the inside of the top (Fig.
309) with holes bored in them for screws with which to fasten on the top
from underneath (see _Boring_ and _Screws_). Round the top edge as shown
(see _Spokeshave_ and _File_), and smooth the surfaces. Then, having
shaped the edge of the top as shown in Fig. 308, fasten it in place and
the stand is ready to finish.
See end of introduction to this chapter for directions about smoothing,
putting together, and finishing. See also _Scraper_, _Sandpaper_, and
_Finishing_, in Part V.
[Illustration FIG. 309.]
The form shown in Fig. 310 is made upon a similar principle, and can be
of a larger size than would be satisfactory for the first pattern.
* * * * *
Much care must be taken to so lay out and cut the slanting edges of the
sides that the pieces will come together accurately. After the top has
been fastened on, a little piece of moulding can be put around beneath
the edge of the top as shown, provided you have the skill to do it
neatly. The corners must be mitred, and the moulding fastened on with
fine brads, which must be set (see _Nailing_ and _Nail-set_).[26]
[Illustration FIG. 310.]
See end of introduction to this chapter for directions about smoothing,
putting together, and finishing. See also _Scraper_, _Sandpaper_, and
_Finishing_, in Part V.
=Tables.=--A plain table, which although not especially ornamental is
serviceable for many purposes, is shown in Fig. 311. It can be made of
any size and proportions and the details can easily be varied.
[Illustration FIG. 311.]
* * * * *
Before beginning work read carefully _Marking_, _Rule_, _Square_, _Saw_,
_Plane_, in Part V., and look up any other references.
The construction is too simple to require special description. The legs
and the cleats at the top should be of plank thickness, the rest of 7/8"
stock. The legs can be halved where they cross (see _Halving_), or for a
rough job can be simply nailed (see _Nailing_). The cleats at the top of
the legs should be nailed or screwed to the legs, and will act as cleats
to the top, which is fastened to them. The boards forming the top can be
simply laid with the edges touching, for a rough job; but where a good
surface is required the joints should be glued (see _Jointing_ and
_Gluing_) and the surface smoothed afterwards.
Extra cleats can be put under the top if needed for stiffness, and
additional lengthways stretchers can be added to connect the upper part
of the legs.
The whole should be planed and sandpapered and can be shellaced or
painted. The remaining details do not differ from those of the subjects
already shown.
See end of introduction to this chapter for directions about smoothing,
putting together, and finishing. See also _Scraper_, _Sandpaper_, and
_Finishing_, in Part V.
* * * * *
A table of simple construction and neat appearance (Fig. 312) can be of
any desired size and proportions.
* * * * *
Before beginning work read carefully _Marking_, _Rule_, _Square_, _Saw_,
_Plane_, in Part V., and look up any other references.
[Illustration FIG. 312.]
The legs can be from 1-1/2" to 2-1/2" square, according to the size of
the table. After being squared and cut to a length they should be
tapered toward the bottom by planing down two opposite sides and then
the other two. The tapering, however, should not extend to the tops of
the legs, but to a point a little below the bottom of the rails, or
cross-bars, which connect the legs. On the two inner sides of the legs
mortises must be cut to receive tenons on the ends of the rails which
connect the legs, as shown in Fig. 313 (see _Mortising_). These rails
can be of 7/8" stock, the curves on the lower edge being cut with the
turning-saw or compass and keyhole saw, and finished with spoke-shave
and chisel or file. The curves can be omitted, of course, if preferred.
[Illustration FIG. 313.]
Do not try to put this table all together permanently at one operation.
First put together two legs and the connecting piece, then the other two
legs and the connecting piece, and finally join these two sides by the
remaining rails. Glue the joints (see _Gluing_) and the parts should be
securely clamped (see _Clamps_) until dry. Corner-blocks can be put in
at the angles (see _Corner-blocks_).
Holes must be bored in the rails by which to fasten the top. If the
rails are not too deep, vertical holes can be bored, countersinking
deeply if necessary. Deep countersinking can be done by first boring a
hole large enough to admit the head of the screw to the depth required,
when the hole can be continued with a smaller bit. If the depth of the
rail is too great for this process, the hole can be made by a species of
counterboring, making first a larger hole in the side of the rail (on
the inside), an inch or so from the top, and boring down into this hole
from the top. A slanting cut can be made from below with the gouge to
allow the screw to be slipped into the hole (Fig. 314). Another way is
to screw cleats on the inside of the rail with a vertical hole through
which the top can be screwed on (Fig. 315).
[Illustration FIG. 314.]
[Illustration FIG. 315.]
The top, if too wide for one board, should be glued up before being
dressed off (see _Jointing_ and _Gluing_), and the edge shaped and
smoothed. Then, laying the top face downward on the horses or bench,
place the frame upside down upon the top. When in the exact position
mark a line around the inside of the frame, continue the holes in the
frame a little way into the top, using a bit a trifle smaller than the
screws, and then screw the frame securely to the top (see _Boring_ and
_Screws_), measuring carefully to see that you use screws which will not
protrude through the top of the table. Depend entirely on the screws to
hold the top on. Do not fasten a table-top on with glue (see _Laying out
the work_, in Chapter IV.). If the table does not stand even, see
_Scribing_ and _Winding-sticks_. The final scraping (see _Scraper_) of
the top can well be left until the table is put together, when the
whole, after being scraped, can be carefully sandpapered with fine
sandpaper (see _Sandpaper_).
The remaining details do not differ from those of the articles already
shown.
See end of introduction to this chapter for directions about smoothing,
putting together, and finishing. See also _Finishing_, in Part V.
* * * * *
An excellent centre-table for the amateur to make (Fig. 316) is useful
for many purposes. About three feet square on top is a convenient size.
* * * * *
Before beginning work read carefully _Marking_, _Rule_, _Square_, _Saw_,
_Plane_, in Part V. and look up any other references.
[Illustration FIG. 316.]
Get out four legs, from 1-1/2" to 2" in diameter, according to the size
of the table. They can be tapered slightly, as in the preceding case.
Groove one side of each leg to receive the end of the cross-partition
shown in the cut (see _Grooving_). These partitions can be 1/2" to 3/4"
thick. One of them can extend across (diagonally) from post to post. The
other can be in two parts, reaching to the centre; or the partitions can
be in four parts, meeting in the centre. This framework of legs and
cross-partitions can be bound together at the top by cleats screwed on
top (Fig. 317), holes being made in the cleats by which they can in turn
be screwed to the top of the table. The lower shelf, or shelves (being
made in four parts), can be fastened up from underneath, cleats, also,
being used if necessary. The shelves can be of 1/2" stock. The upper
shelves can be fitted after the rest is put together and can rest upon
cleats underneath, to which they can be fastened. The shape of the top
is shown in Fig. 317a.
[Illustration FIG. 317.]
[Illustration FIG. 317a.]
The remaining details do not differ from those in the preceding cases.
See end of introduction to this chapter for directions about smoothing,
putting together, and finishing. See also _Scraper_, _Sandpaper_, and
_Finishing_, in Part V.
* * * * *
=Small Stand.=--A simple arrangement shown in Fig. 318 involves more
difficulties than many of the other articles shown, but is not beyond
the skill of the careful amateur. A good size is about 13" or 14" across
the top and 17" or 18" high. Such a stand is useful to hold a
flower-pot.
[Illustration FIG. 318.]
* * * * *
Before beginning work read carefully _Marking_, _Rule_, _Square_, _Saw_,
_Plane_, in Part V. and look up any other references.
The top can be of 1/2" or 5/8" stock and the legs of 7/8" stock, the
lower part tapering in thickness to 5/8" at the bottom. The curves can
all be sawed at a mill for a small sum, and smoothed with spoke-shave
and file (see _Spokeshave_ and _File_). The underside of the top can be
bevelled at the edge (Fig. 319). This can be done with the spoke-shave.
The file can be used to good advantage in the rounding of the extreme
edge, finishing with sandpaper, but not until after the top surface has
been finally smoothed (see _Spokeshave_, _File_, and _Sandpaper_).
[Illustration FIG. 319.]
The curved frame under the top and connecting the legs is to be made in
four pieces, the legs being fitted between them (Fig. 320). These curved
pieces should be got out a little too long and the ends carefully sawed
to make a tight joint with the legs. Be sure that all these parts fit
accurately before you finally put them together. Screw them together,
toeing screws into the legs. Use glue at the joints of the curved frame
and the legs, but do not glue the frame to the top.
[Illustration FIG. 320.]
The remaining details do not differ from those in the preceding cases.
See end of introduction to this chapter for directions about smoothing,
putting together, and finishing. See also _Scraper_, _Sandpaper_, and
_Finishing_, in Part V.
* * * * *
=Small Table.=--Fig. 321 shows a good form for a small stand suitable
for various purposes, which, although not as easy to make as it looks,
is not too hard for the amateur who has acquired some familiarity with
his tools. It can be made of any desired height or proportions.
* * * * *
Before beginning work read carefully _Marking_, _Rule_, _Square_, _Saw_,
_Plane_, in Part V., and look up any other references.
Get out the top as in the small stand last shown. The thickness can vary
from 1/2" to 7/8" according to the size of the table. The legs should
not be fastened directly to the top, but to a cleat framework to be
screwed to the top (Fig. 322). This helps prevent the top from warping.
The legs can be round or six-sided and should be tapered (see
_Rounding-sticks_). A tenon or dowel should be made at the upper end of
each leg to fit into a hole in the cleat framework.
[Illustration FIG. 321.]
[Illustration FIG. 322.]
[Illustration FIG. 323.]
The hexagonal shelf at the bottom can be of 1/2" stock and should be
notched or grooved into the legs, the extreme angles of the shelf being
cut off (Fig. 323). A fine screw toed from underneath through the shelf
into the leg (Fig. 324) will strengthen the joint, and after the whole
is fastened together, little brackets can be screwed with fine screws in
the angle between the lower shelf and the leg. All the joints should be
glued except where the cleats are fastened to the top, in which case
screws alone should be used. Much care is required to make all these
joints accurately, and to put the whole table together properly.
[Illustration FIG. 324.]
The remaining details do not differ from those in the preceding cases.
See end of introduction to this chapter for directions about smoothing,
putting together, and finishing. See also _Scraper_, _Sandpaper_, and
_Finishing_, in Part V.
* * * * *
=Footstool or Cricket.=--A common low seat or cricket (Fig. 325) can be
made of 5/8" or 7/8" stock and of any desired size.
* * * * *
Before beginning work read carefully _Marking_, _Rule_, _Square_, _Saw_,
_Plane_, in Part V., and look up any other references.
[Illustration FIG. 325.]
The hardest part of this job is to cut the bevels where the sides meet
the top and at the ends of the stretcher between the sides (see
_Bevelling_). You will probably find it easier to lay out and cut the
ends of the sides before they are tapered. The edges of the top can be
slightly rounded.
After the parts are nailed together (see _Nailing_) set the nails (see
_Nail-set_). The remaining details do not differ from those of the cases
already described.
See end of introduction to this chapter for directions about smoothing,
putting together, and finishing. See also _Scraper_, _Sandpaper_, and
_Finishing_, in Part V.
* * * * *
=Out-Door Seat.=--The construction of the plain chair shown in Fig. 326
is too obvious to require special description.
* * * * *
Before beginning work read carefully _Marking_, _Rule_, _Square_, _Saw_,
_Plane_, in Part V., and look up any other references.
This seat can be made of thin plank. The most difficult part is the
bevelling of the joints (see _Bevelling_).
[Illustration FIG. 326.]
The remaining details do not differ from those in the preceding cases.
For the painting see _Painting_, in Part V.
=Bookcase and Lounge.=--"Combination" articles of furniture are, as a
rule, frequently undesirable on the ground of taste, and often are not
as convenient as to have the parts made separately. But the amateur may
sometimes find it desirable to join two or more different pieces to fit
some particular spot or for some special reason. Examples are given in
the bookcase and desk (Fig. 306), in the combination for a corner (Fig.
328), and in Fig. 327. These are given as suggestive of the kind of
combinations that can be suitably undertaken by the amateur, and many
simple arrangements can readily be contrived when desired.
[Illustration FIG. 327.]
* * * * *
Before beginning work read carefully _Marking_, _Rule_, _Square_, _Saw_,
_Plane_, in Part V., and look up any other references.
The new principles involved in this design are merely in the
combination. The bookcase and the cupboard (which can be open if
desired) are similar to those already shown, and the lounge is simply a
shelf or box-like arrangement connecting the two. The back of the lounge
is merely a board fastened by screws. The appearance of the article
depends much upon the upholstering. This should not be done until after
the finishing of the wood-work.
The remaining details are not different from those of the articles
already shown.
See end of introduction to this chapter for directions about smoothing,
putting together, and finishing. See also _Scraper_, _Sandpaper_, and
_Finishing_, in Part V.
[Illustration FIG. 328.]
Another combination, suitable for a corner, is shown in Fig. 328. The
principles involved are the same as for the other articles already
described and the construction is obvious.
* * * * *
=Table and Settle, or Chair-Table.=--This is an excellent form of table
for the amateur to make and is useful for many purposes (Figs. 329 and
330). If of moderate size, it can be made of 7/8" stock, but if large,
and to be subjected to rough usage, thin plank will be more suitable for
the ends and top. Another good form of chair-table can be made on the
same principle by making a narrower seat, or a heavy chair, and
attaching a circular top by hinges to the back of the arms of the seat.
Before beginning work read carefully _Marking_, _Rule_, _Square_,
_Saw_, _Plane_, in Part V., and look up any other references.
The framing of the lower part is similar to that of a box. Get out the
upright ends and the front and back of the box part and fit them
together as shown in Fig. 331, a rabbet (see _Rabbet_) or groove being
cut to receive the bottom. The lid, which forms the seat, can be
arranged as shown (see _Hinges_). The top, made like any table-top and
fastened by screws to the deep cleats shown (see _Screws_), is pivoted
to either side of the upright ends by pins when a seat is desired. When
you wish to use the table and the top is lowered, it can be held in
place by inserting pins in the other two holes also. The pins should not
be less than 1/2" or 3/4" in diameter. Care must be used in laying off
the points for making these holes (see _Boring_).
[Illustration FIG. 329.]
[Illustration FIG. 330.]
The remaining details are not different from those of the articles
already shown.
See end of introduction to this chapter for directions about smoothing,
putting together, and finishing. See also _Scraper_, _Sandpaper_, and
_Finishing_, in Part V.
[Illustration FIG. 331.]
=Cabinet for Guns, Fishing-Rods, Etc.=--A convenient form is shown in
Fig. 332. The construction is similar to that of the bookcases and
cabinets already shown. The stock for the case itself can be 7/8" in
thickness, for the larger divisions 3/4", and for the small partitions
1/2".
[Illustration FIG. 332.]
Before beginning work read carefully _Marking_, _Rule_, _Square_,
_Saw_, _Plane_, in Part V., and look up any other references.
If you make the doors with glass panels, as shown, these can be set in
rabbets cut on the inside of the door frames and held in place by strips
of "quarter-round" moulding. The doors can be fitted between the sides
or can lap over the edges of the sides, as you prefer (see _Doors_). The
drawers can be omitted if too difficult to make well (see _Drawers_),
and small boxes of various sizes stored upon the shelves can be used as
a substitute.
The remaining details are not different from those of the articles
already shown.
See end of introduction to this chapter for directions about smoothing,
putting together, and finishing. See also _Scraper_, _Sandpaper_, and
_Finishing_, in Part V.
* * * * *
=Picture Frames.=--These are often undertaken by the amateur, but
making them well is much more difficult than it seems to the beginner.
* * * * *
Before beginning work read carefully _Marking_, _Rule_, _Square_, _Saw_,
_Plane_, in Part V., and look up any other references.
If you buy the prepared mouldings so much in use, they will, in most
cases, have to be mitred at the corners, which is an operation by no
means easy for the beginner, particularly when the moulding is sprung or
twisted, as is often the case. Those joints which do not close properly
must be trimmed with the plane, for which purpose the mitre
shooting-board is useful (see page 94), and all four joints should fit
accurately before finally putting together, so that none will have to
be sprung or twisted in order to close up. At the same time you must
guard against winding by sighting across the face, and the angles must
be tested with the square. The clamping together is important in such
work. This can be done by laying the frame flat, nailing strips a short
distance outside of each of the four corners, and driving in wedges
between these strips and the frame until the joints are firmly held
(Fig. 333). This can also be done by putting blocks at the corners and
passing a doubled cord around, which, by inserting a stick, can be
twisted until the frame is held tightly. But making mitred frames of
moulding is not suitable work for the beginner and should be deferred
until you have had some experience (see _Mitring_).
[Illustration FIG. 333.]
For a plain frame nothing is better than a joint with mortise and tenon
(Fig. 334), the rabbet (see _Rabbet_) at the back being cut through to
the ends of the shorter pieces (those having the tenons), but being
stopped before reaching the ends of the longer pieces (those having the
mortises), as shown. The latter should be got out too long, so as to
overlap a little at the ends (Fig. 334). This enables you to take the
frame apart more readily when fitting, and with less danger of injury to
the work. The projecting ends can be sawed off after the frame has been
glued together (see _Mortising_, _Gluing_, and _Clamps_). The final
planing and smoothing of the front surface and the edges should be done
after the frame is glued together, careful attention being paid to the
direction of the grain (see _Plane_, _Scraper_, and _Sandpaper_).
[Illustration FIG. 334.]
After a frame of this kind is all done, an inner moulding with a row of
beads, or some other simple form, can easily be fitted to the rabbet,
if desired.
See end of introduction to this chapter for directions about smoothing,
putting together, and finishing. See also _Finishing_, in Part V.
FOOTNOTES:
[24] This method of putting in a back answers very well for the
beginner, and is often used in cheap work, but, unless quite small, the
really workmanlike way is to make a panelled frame, which is screwed in
place as one piece. The degree to which the panelling is carried depends
upon the size and shape of the back. When you become able to make your
work more neatly and accurately than can be expected of the beginner,
you will do well to construct the backs in this way, but it involves
much more labour and is hardly worth while for such simple work as you
will do at first.
[25] A more workmanlike way is to work all such mouldings on the edge
of the top, making it as much thicker as may be required, thus avoiding
putting on the moulding across the grain of the piece to which it is
fastened, which is not a scientific form of construction; and for that
matter it is a more thoroughly workmanlike way to work all mouldings on
the solid wood.
The top can be made of two thicknesses, the moulding being worked on
the edge of the under piece before the two are glued together. Various
forms of moulding can be worked on the edge by a moulding machine at
almost any wood-working mill.
[26] See footnote on page 198.