CHAPTER XV

WHAT A GOOD APPEARANCE WILL DO

Let thy attire be comely but not costly.--LIVY.

Costly thy habit as thy purse can buy,

But not expressed in fancy; rich not gaudy;

For the apparel oft proclaims the man.

SHAKESPEARE.

I hold that gentleman to be the best dressed whose dress no one

observes.--ANTHONY TROLLOPE.

As a general thing an individual who is neat in his person is neat in

his morals.--H. W. SHAW.

There are two chief factors in good appearance; cleanliness of body and

comeliness of attire. Usually these go together, neatness of attire

indicating a sanitary care of the person, while outward slovenliness

suggests a carelessness for appearance that probably goes deeper than

the clothes covering the body.

We express ourselves first of all in our bodies. The outer condition

of the body is accepted as the symbol of the inner. If it is unlovely,

or repulsive, through sheer neglect or indifference, we conclude that

the mind corresponds with it. As a rule, the conclusion is a just one.

High ideals and strong, clean, wholesome lives and work are

incompatible with low standards of personal cleanliness. A young man

who neglects his bath will neglect his mind; he will quickly

deteriorate in every way. A young woman who ceases to care for her

appearance in minutest detail will soon cease to please. She will fall

little by little until she degenerates into an ambitionless slattern.

It is not to be wondered at that the Talmud places cleanliness next to

godliness. I should place it nearer still, for I believe that absolute

cleanliness _is_ godliness. Cleanliness or purity of soul and body

raises man to the highest estate. Without this he is nothing but a

brute.

There is a very close connection between a fine, strong, clean physique

and a fine, strong, clean character. A man who allows himself to

become careless in regard to the one will, in spite of himself, fall

away in the other.

But self-interest clamors as loudly as esthetic or moral considerations

for the fulfilment of the laws of cleanliness. Every day we see people

receiving "demerits" for failure to live up to them. I can recall

instances of capable stenographers who forfeited their positions

because they did not keep their finger nails clean. An honest,

intelligent man whom I know lost his place in a large publishing firm

because he was careless about shaving and brushing his teeth. The

other day a lady remarked that she went into a store to buy some

ribbons, but when she saw the salesgirl's hands she changed her mind

and made her purchase elsewhere. "Dainty ribbons," she said, "could

not be handled by such soiled fingers without losing some of their

freshness." Of course, it will not be long until that girl's employer

will discover that she is not advancing his business, and then,--well,

the law will work inexorably.

The first point to be emphasized in the making of a good appearance is

the necessity of frequent bathing. A daily bath insures a clean,

wholesome condition of the skin, without which health is impossible.

Next in importance to the bath is the proper care of the hair, the

hands, and the teeth. This requires little more than a small amount of

time and the use of soap and water.

The hair, of course, should be combed and brushed regularly every day.

If it is naturally oily, it should be washed thoroughly every two weeks

with a good reliable scalp soap and warm water, to which a very little

ammonia may be added. If the hair is dry or lacking in oily matter, it

should not be washed oftener than once a month and the ammonia may be

omitted. Manicure sets are so cheap that they are within the reach of

almost everyone. If you can not afford to buy a whole set, you can buy

a file (you can get one as low as ten cents), and keep your nails

smooth and clean. Keeping the teeth in good condition is a very simple

matter, yet perhaps more people sin in this particular point of

cleanliness than in any other. I know young men, and young women, too,

who dress very well and seem to take considerable pride in their

personal appearance, yet neglect their teeth. They do not realize that

there could hardly be a worse blot on one's appearance than dirty or

decaying teeth, or the absence of one or two in front. Nothing can be

more offensive in man or woman than a foul breath, and no one can have

neglected teeth without reaping this consequence. We all know how

disagreeable it is to be anywhere near a person whose breath is bad.

It is positively disgusting. No employer wants a clerk, or

stenographer, or other employee about him who contaminates the

atmosphere. Nor does he, if he is at all particular, want one whose

appearance is marred by a lack of one or two front teeth. Many an

applicant has been denied the position he sought because of bad teeth.

For those who have to make their way in the world, the best counsel on

the subject of clothes may be summed up in this short sentence, "Let

thy attire be comely, but not costly." Simplicity in dress is its

greatest charm, and in these days, when there is such an infinite

variety of tasteful but inexpensive fabrics to choose from, the

majority can afford to be well dressed. But no one need blush for a

shabby suit, if circumstances prevent his having a better one. You

will be more respected by yourself and every one else with an old coat

on your back that has been paid for than a new one that has not. It is

not the shabbiness that is unavoidable, but the slovenliness that is

avoidable, that the world frowns upon. No one, no matter how poor he

may be, will be excused for wearing a dirty coat, a crumpled collar, or

muddy shoes. If you are dressed according to your means, no matter how

poorly, you are appropriately dressed. The consciousness of making the

best appearance you possibly can, of always being scrupulously neat and

clean, and of maintaining your self-respect and integrity at all costs,

will sustain you under the most adverse circumstances, and give you a

dignity, strength, and magnetic forcefulness that will command the

respect and admiration of others.

Herbert H. Vreeland, who rose in a short time from a section hand on

the Long Island Railroad to the presidency of all the surface railways

in New York City, should be a practical authority on this subject. In

the course of an address on how to attain success, he said:--

"Clothes don't make the man, but good clothes have got many a man a

good job. If you have twenty-five dollars, and want a job, it is

better to spend twenty dollars for a suit of clothes, four dollars for

shoes, and the rest for a shave, a hair-cut, and a clean collar, and

walk to the place, than go with the money in the pockets of a dingy

suit."

[Illustration: John Wanamaker]

Most large business houses make it a rule not to employ anyone who

looks seedy, or slovenly, or who does not make a good appearance when

he applies for a position. The man who hires all the salespeople for

one of the largest retail stores in Chicago says:

"While the routine of application is in every case strictly adhered to,

the fact remains that the most important element in an applicant's

chance for a trial is his personality."

It does not matter how much merit or ability an applicant for a

position may possess, he can not afford to be careless of his personal

appearance. Diamonds in the rough of infinitely greater value than the

polished glass of some of those who get positions may, occasionally, be

rejected. Applicants whose good appearance helped them to secure a

place may often be very superficial in comparison with some who were

rejected in their favor and may not have half their merit; but having

secured it, they may keep it, though not possessing half the ability of

the boy or girl who was turned away.

That the same rule that governs employers in America holds in England,

is evidenced by the "London Draper's Record." It says:--

"Wherever a marked personal care is exhibited for the cleanliness of

the person and for neatness in dress, there is also almost always found

extra carefulness as regards the finish of work done. Work people

whose personal habits are slovenly produce slovenly work; those who are

careful of their own appearance are equally careful of the looks of the

work they turn out. And probably what is true of the workroom is

equally true of the region behind the counter. Is it not a fact that

the smart saleswoman is usually rather particular about her dress, is

averse to wearing dingy collars, frayed cuffs; and faded ties? The

truth of the matter seems to be that extra care as regards personal

habits and general appearance is, as a rule, indicative of a certain

alertness of mind, which shows itself antagonistic to slovenliness of

all kinds."

No young man or woman who wishes to retain that most potent factor of

the successful life, self-respect, can afford to be negligent in the

matter of dress, for "the character is subdued to what it is clothed

in." As the consciousness of being well dressed tends to grace and

ease of manner, so shabby, ill-fitting, or soiled attire makes one feel

awkward and constrained, lacking in dignity and importance. Our

clothes unmistakably affect our feelings, and self respect, as anyone

knows who has experienced the sensation--and who has not?--that comes

from being attired in new and becoming raiment. Poor, ill-fitting, or

soiled garments are detrimental to morals and manners. "The

consciousness of clean linen," says Elizabeth Stuart Phelps, "is in and

of itself a source of moral strength, second only to that of a clean

conscience. A well-ironed collar or a fresh glove has carried many a

man through an emergency in which a wrinkle or a rip would have

defeated him."

The importance of attending to little details--the perfection of which

really constitutes the well-dressed man or woman--is well illustrated

by this story of a young woman's failure to secure a desirable

position. One of those large-souled women of wealth, in which our

generation is rich, had established an industrial school for girls in

which they received a good English education and were trained to be

self-supporting. She needed the services of a superintendent and

teacher, and considered herself fortunate when the trustees of the

institution recommended to her a young woman whose tact, knowledge,

perfect manners, and general fitness for the position they extolled in

the highest terms. The young woman was invited by the founder of the

school to call on her at once. Apparently she possessed all the

required qualifications; and yet, without assigning any reason, Mrs. V.

absolutely refused to give her a trial. Long afterward, when

questioned by a friend as to the cause of her seemingly inexplicable

conduct in refusing to engage so competent a teacher, she replied: "It

was a trifle, but a trifle in which, as in an Egyptian hieroglyphic,

lay a volume of meaning. The young woman came to me fashionably and

expensively dressed, but with torn and soiled gloves, and half of the

buttons off her shoes. A slovenly woman is not a fit guide for any

young girl." Probably the applicant never knew why she did not obtain

the position, for she was undoubtedly well qualified to fill it in

every respect, except in this seemingly unimportant matter of attention

to the little details of dress.

From every point of view it pays well to dress well. The knowledge

that we are becomingly clothed acts like a mental tonic. Very few men

or women are so strong and so perfectly poised as to be unaffected by

their surroundings. If you lie around half-dressed, without making

your toilet, and with your room all in disorder, taking it easy because

you do not expect or wish to see anybody, you will find yourself very

quickly taking on the mood of your attire and environment. Your mind

will slip down; it will refuse to exert itself; it will become as

slovenly, slipshod, and inactive as your body. On the other hand, if,

when you have an attack of the "blues," when you feel half sick and not

able to work, instead of lying around the house in your old wrapper or

dressing gown, you take a good bath,--a Turkish bath, if you can afford

it,--put on your best clothes, and make your toilet as carefully as if

you were going to a fashionable reception, you will feel like a new

person. Nine times out of ten, before you have finished dressing your

"blues" and your half-sick feeling will have vanished like a bad dream,

and your whole outlook on life will have changed.

By emphasizing the importance of dress I do not mean that you should be

like Beau Brummel, the English fop, who spent four thousand dollars a

year at his tailor's alone, and who used to take hours to tie his

cravat. An undue love of dress is worse than a total disregard of it,

and they love dress too much who "go in debt" for it, who make it their

chief object in life, to the neglect of their most sacred duty to

themselves and others, or who, like Beau Brummel, devote most of their

waking hours to its study. But I do claim, in view of its effect on

ourselves and on those with whom we come in contact, that it is a duty,

as well as the truest economy, to dress as well and becomingly as our

position requires and our means will allow.

Many young men and women make the mistake of thinking that "well

dressed" necessarily means being expensively dressed, and, with this

erroneous idea in mind, they fall into as great a pitfall as those who

think clothes are of no importance. They devote the time that should

be given to the culture of head and heart to studying their toilets,

and planning how they can buy, out of their limited salaries, this or

that expensive hat, or tie or coat, which they see exhibited in some

fashionable store. If they can not by any possibility afford the

coveted article, they buy some cheap, tawdry imitation, the effect of

which is only to make them look ridiculous. Young men of this stamp

wear cheap rings, vermilion-tinted ties, and broad checks, and almost

invariably they occupy cheap positions. Like the dandy, whom Carlyle

describes as "a clothes-wearing man,--a man whose trade, office and

existence consists in the wearing of clothes,--every faculty of whose

soul, spirit, person and purse is heroically consecrated to this one

object," they live to dress, and have no time to devote to self-culture

or to fitting themselves for higher positions.

The overdressed young woman is merely the feminine of the overdressed

young man. The manners of both seem to have a subtle connection with

their clothes. They are loud, flashy, vulgar. Their style of dress

bespeaks a type of character even more objectionable than that of the

slovenly, untidily dressed person. The world accepts the truth

announced by Shakespeare that "the apparel oft proclaims the man"; and

the man and the woman, too, are frequently condemned by the very garb

which they think makes them so irresistible. At first sight, it may

seem hasty or superficial to judge men or women by their clothes, but

experience has proved, again and again, that they do, as a rule,

measure the sense and self-respect of the wearer; and aspirants to

success should be as careful in choosing their dress as their

companions, for the old adage: "Tell me thy company and I will tell

thee what thou art," is offset by this wise saying of some philosopher

of the commonplace: "Show me all the dresses a woman has worn in the

course of her life, and I will write you her biography."

"How exquisitely absurd it is," says Sydney Smith, "to teach a girl

that beauty is of no value, dress of no use. Beauty is of value. Her

whole prospect and happiness in life may often depend upon a new gown

or a becoming bonnet. If she has five grains of common sense, she will

find this out. The great thing is to teach her their proper value."

It is true that clothes do not make the man, but they have a much

larger influence on man's life than we are wont to attribute to them.

Prentice Mulford declares dress to be one of the avenues for the

spiritualization of the race. This is not an extravagant statement,

when we remember what an effect clothes have in inciting to personal

cleanliness. Let a woman, for instance, don an old soiled or worn

wrapper, and it will have the effect of making her indifferent as to

whether her hair is frowsy or in curl papers. It does not matter

whether her face or hands are clean or not, or what sort of slipshod

shoes she wears, for "anything," she argues, "is good enough to go with

this old wrapper." Her walk, her manner, the general trend of her

feelings, will in some subtle way be dominated by the old wrapper.

Suppose she changes,--puts on a dainty muslin garment instead; how

different her looks and acts! Her hair must be becomingly arranged, so

as not to be at odds with her dress. Her face and hands and finger

nails must be spotless as the muslin which surrounds them. The

down-at-heel old shoes are exchanged for suitable slippers. Her mind

runs along new channels. She has much more respect for the wearer of

the new, clean wrapper than for the wearer of the old, soiled one.

"Would you change the current of your thoughts? Change your raiment,

and you will at once feel the effect." Even so great an authority as

Buffon, the naturalist and philosopher, testifies to the influence of

dress on thought. He declared himself utterly incapable of thinking to

good purpose except in full court dress. This he always put on before

entering his study, not even omitting his sword.

There is something about ill-fitting, unbecoming, or shabby apparel

which not only robs one of self-respect, but also of comfort and power.

Good clothes give ease of manner, and make one talk well. The

consciousness of being well dressed gives a grace and ease of manner

that even religion will not bestow, while inferiority of garb often

induces restraint.

One can not but feel that God is a lover of appropriate dress. He has

put robes of beauty and glory upon all His works. Every flower is

dressed in richness; every field blushes beneath a mantle of beauty;

every star is veiled in brightness; every bird is clothed in the

habiliments of the most exquisite taste. And surely He is pleased when

we provide a beautiful setting for the greatest of His handiworks.

Pushing to the Front · 第 15 / 66 章