Port Essington.
Bearings from shoals in the Harbour.
Appearance of the Settlement.
Meet Captain Stanley.
Church.
Point Record.
Prospects of the Settlement.
Buffaloes escape.
Fence across neck of Peninsula.
Lieutenant P.B. Stewart explores the Country.
Natives.
Uses of Sand.
Tumuli-building Birds.
Beautiful Opossum.
Wild Bees.
Escape from an Alligator.
Result of Astronomical Observations.
Geological Formation.
Raffles Bay.
Leave Port Essington.
Popham Bay.
Detect error in position of Port Essington.
Melville Island.
Discover a Reef in Clarence Strait.
Cape Hotham.
Native Huts and Clothing.
Geological Formation.
Discover the Adelaide River.
Interview with Natives.
Attempt to come on board.
Messrs. Fitzmaurice and Keys nearly speared.
Exploration of the Adelaide.
Its capabilities.
Wood-ducks.
Vampires.
Another party ascends the Adelaide.
Meet Natives.
Canoes.
Alligator.
Visit Melville Island.
Green Ants.
Thoughts of taking ship up Adelaide abandoned.
Tides in Dundas Strait.
Return to Port Essington.
Theatricals.
H.M.S. Pelorus arrives with Provisions.
Further remarks on the Colony.
PORT ESSINGTON.
The expanse of water presented to our view in standing up Port Essington,
quite delighted us. It is in truth a magnificent harbour, and well worthy
of having on its shores the capital of Northern Australia, destined,
doubtless, from its proximity to India, and our other fast-increasing
eastern possessions, to become not only a great commercial resort, but a
valuable naval post in time of war. Many circumstances combine to render
it a desirable station. Its great size, having an extent sufficient to
hold the largest fleet, is in itself of vast importance, while, as a
shelter for distressed vessels, or the surviving crews of wrecks, it
cannot be too highly rated: the more so that excellent wood for repairing
ships grows in the neighbourhood, especially teak and oak, specimens of
which with others, Captain Laws forwarded, in 1828, to one of the
dockyards in England.
As we advanced the shores of the harbour contracted, and at the distance
of thirteen miles from the entrance are only one mile apart; scarcely
half, however, of this space is navigable, from a bank extending off the
west side, which is a rocky head called Spear Point, from the
circumstance of Captain King having been there nearly speared by the
natives. The bearings for clearing the extremes of this reef are as
follows. For the south-eastern, Adam Head South 20 degrees West, for the
eastern, Middle Head South 18 degrees West, and for the north-eastern,
Oyster Head North 47 degrees West. This great decrease in the breadth of
the passage, necessarily gives the tide at this spot great rapidity, by
which a channel, thirteen fathoms deep, has been formed close to the
eastern shore, a low sandy tongue of land called Point Record. This name
was given to it on the occasion of Port Essington and the contiguous
country, being taken possession of by Sir Gordon Bremer when on his way
to settle Melville Island, in 1824. A bottle containing an account of
their proceedings was buried, and hence the name. The same cause which
influences the tides, has rendered the sides of the narrow channel very
steep, and a vessel standing towards the bank fronting Spear Point,
should, accordingly, tack when the water shoals to nine fathoms, as the
soundings in approaching that part fronting Port Record are 12, 9, 7, and
2 fathoms.
Beyond these points, the harbour again widens and forms a large basin
nearly five miles in extent; but from a broad point projecting two miles
from the south-east side, the inner harbour is proportionably decreased
in size. From the extreme of this cliffy point, called by Captain King,
from its position, Middle Head, a narrow bank extends some distance in
the direction of Point Record, forming the only danger in this part of
the harbour.
BEARINGS FOR THE HARBOUR.
From its outer edge, Point Record bears north, and the North-East part of
Middle Head, South 76 degrees East. These and other bearings recently
given, will perhaps be considered of little value by the general reader,
but as they were required to take the Beagle into Port Essington, they
will be found useful to others for the same purpose.
APPEARANCE OF THE SETTLEMENT.
The narrow entrance to the inner harbour, may by some be considered a
drawback, but on the other hand, it must be borne in mind, that what is
an impediment to navigation, is also a safeguard against attack.
Moreover, from this want of breadth in the harbour, a fort on Point
Record, which is commanded by no height, would perfectly protect it.
It was from this confined portion that our anxious desire to catch a
glimpse of the new settlement was at length gratified; and we were
somewhat surprised, considering the recent date of its formation, to
discover the presence of so many buildings as were scattered over the top
of a cliffy point on the south-west part of the harbour, called Adam
Head, at the base of which was a long jetty.
Clearing the bank off Spear Point, we ran up and anchored near H.M.S.
Britomart, lying off the settlement, early in the afternoon. The sight of
another vessel is ever cheering to the hearts of those who have been, as
it were, for a time, cut off from the world;* nor was our arrival,
bringing, as we did, news and letters, any less welcome; though after a
long interval the receipt of a letter, perhaps bearing an ill omen in the
very colour of its wax, is very far from generating unmixed emotions of
pleasure. So much may occur in the brief space of a few months, that a
seal must ever be broken with feelings of great anxiety.
(*Footnote. I well remember the sensations I experienced on first seeing
a sail after an interval of nine months, and that wholly spent on the
storm-beaten shores of South-western Tierra Del Fuego. J.L.S.)
PORT ESSINGTON.
We too had our share of news to be made acquainted with. Captain Stanley
had been on a most interesting cruise to the Arru Islands, the deeply
interesting narrative of which expedition the reader will peruse, we are
sure, with unqualified satisfaction, in a later section of the present
work. This meeting gave me real pleasure, though with regret I saw that
he had been much harassed. Lieutenant P.B. Stewart,* of the Alligator,
had also made a journey over the Peninsula, to which I shall presently
further allude.
(*Footnote. Since promoted for services in China; he also served in the
Beagle during her last expedition.)
We were of course extremely anxious to visit the settlement. Landing at
the jetty, which we found a very creditable piece of workmanship erected
under the direction of Lieutenant P.B. Stewart, we ascended the cliff,
and on gaining the summit, found ourselves on a small piece of tableland
partially cleared. Seen through the trees, the dwellings of the settlers
had an air of neatness, pleasing to the eye. Among the other buildings in
progress was the church, which, planted as it was on the northern shores
of the Australian continent, was expected to form a nucleus from which
offshoots might by degrees draw within its influence the islands in the
Arafura Sea, and thus widely spread the pure blessings of Christianity.
It is highly characteristic of our countrymen, that where with other
nations, the tavern, the theatre, the dancing-house, are among the
earliest buildings in a new settlement, with us everywhere the church is
first thought of. In few corners of the world, where English influence
has extended itself, is this otherwise than true, and it is a highly
enviable distinction. It seems, indeed, that wherever the flag of Britain
floats, there is made known the Word of God in its purity; and as an
empire has been vouchsafed us on which the sun never sets, the extent of
our influence for good in this respect is incalculable. We may venture to
express our sincere hope, that our country will ever continue to enjoy
this noble supremacy.
At the south-east extremity of the settlement, raised on piles, was the
Government-house, fronted on the harbour side by a small battery. Behind
the table-plain, the land, producing very coarse grass, falls away to the
south-west, and some clear patches which from lying in a low situation,
are flooded during the rains, form tolerable soil. Generally speaking,
however, there is a great deficiency of land fit for cultivation. On some
of the best spots lying to the southward and westward, gardens have been
commenced with some success.
Before proceeding further with our journal of events at Port Essington,
it may be proper to introduce some brief account of the state and
prospects of the settlement at that place. The reader will remember an
allusion in a previous chapter to the departure from Sydney of the
expedition despatched for the purpose of forming it, as well as some
remarks on the policy of giving it a purely military character. That
expedition reached its destination on October 27, 1838, having taken
formal possession on the way, of Cape York and the adjacent territory.
Sir Gordon Bremer's first care was to select a site for the proposed
township; and after due deliberation, a spot was fixed on which was
thought to combine all desirable advantages: as good soil, the
neighbourhood of fresh water, and easy approach from the ships in port.
In the selection of the spot to be occupied by a settlement, the
capabilities of the soil must ever be the first consideration; still,
however, there will always exist an objection on the ground of its great
distance of 16 miles from the mouth of the harbour. A similar
disadvantage in the Falkland Islands, proved of great detriment to the
settlement in Berkeley Sound.
The site of Victoria, for such was the name bestowed, in honour of her
Majesty, on the new settlement, is raised in the loftiest part about
fifty feet above high-water level. Upon it the plans of a number of
cottages and gardens were rapidly marked out; and it was not long before
this hitherto desolate spot presented the appearance of a large
straggling village. A pier was speedily run out into the sea; and a good
road cut to it. The church, also, which I have before mentioned, was soon
to be distinguished, rising above the Government cottage and officers'
quarters; while in order to ensure an ample supply of water, deep wells
were sunk on the tableland within the settlement, which fully answered
expectation, the water proving good and abundant.
Not long after the arrival of the expedition, M. Dumont D'Urville, with
the Astrolabe and Zelie, arrived in Raffles Bay, and it was popularly
believed that they had entertained some intentions of forestalling our
settlement. At any rate, the question whether foreign powers were
entitled to take possession of points on the coast of Australia was much
debated at the time. However this may be, and with whatever feelings the
respective Governments of France and England may have regarded each other
at the time, the officers of the two nations seemed to vie in courtesy. A
boat was despatched from Victoria to invite them to enter the harbour,
and the greatest harmony prevailed during their stay.
On the 28th of March, six Malay proas came in and were soon followed by
others, their owners soliciting permission to erect their establishments
for curing trepang under the protection of the British flag. This being
granted, they made choice of a spot on the beach, and a little subsidiary
settlement soon sprung up. Being now for the first time secure from the
attacks of the natives, whose hostility had until then forced every other
man of them to keep under arms whilst the rest worked, they expected to
pursue their occupation with far greater advantage to themselves.
Originally hopes were entertained that a very large population of Malays,
and even Chinese would speedily collect at Port Essington: but from some
defect in the colonial regulations their immigration was for a time
checked. At length, however, a remedy has been applied, and facility
given for the introduction of settlers from the Indian Archipelago and
the Celestial Empire.
The great difficulty that this small settlement has had to contend with
from the beginning, is the climate; which, though not absolutely
pernicious in itself, is unsuited to European constitutions. The settlers
have been attacked at various times by fever, and have experienced a
large comparative mortality; but hopes are entertained that by proper
regulations, especially if temperate habits could be introduced, this may
be avoided.
The capabilities of the soil, though it has by some been pronounced
totally unfit for agricultural purposes, are still supposed by others to
be great, and it is believed that if colonists, capable of working in the
climate, could be induced to repair to Port Essington, rice, cotton,
indigo, etc. might be raised, of the finest quality, and in great
abundance.
The livestock at the settlements, consisted, by the last accounts, of an
English cow and a bull, two Indian heifers and two cows, above fifty
goats, six working oxen, thirty buffaloes, six pigs, a few fowls, five
ponies, and thirty half-greyhounds for catching kangaroos. Some of these
were private, others public property. Several cattle have been lost, on
hearing which, a plan that had before suggested itself, recurred vividly
to my mind. I once thought the herds of buffalo and other animals might
be prevented from straying, by a fence run across the Peninsula, between
Mount Norris Bay, and the north-east corner of Van Diemen's Gulf. The
width is only three miles, and the rude Micmac Indians of Newfoundland,
have carried fences for a similar purpose many times that extent. The
necessity of so doing became more apparent each time I visited the place,
especially when I heard of herds of buffaloes being seen upon the main.
Another advantage which occurred to me in connection with this subject,
was, that it would have rendered an out-station necessary, and have thus
led to a further communication with the natives, which would ultimately
tend to increase our knowledge of them and the interior; this after our
subsequent discovery of Adelaide river became of still greater moment.
The existence of the out-station would also form a change for the
settlers, and journeys thither would remove the dreary inactivity of a
new settlement at certain periods. The absence of this fence may account
for Captain Grey's party having seen signs of buffalo on the mainland; he
discovered the tracks of a cloven-footed animal, which one of his men who
had been much in South Africa, at once recognised as the spur of a
buffalo. But one advantage can arise from the want of this precaution.
Some of the finest lands in the neighbourhood of Sydney, now called Cow
Pastures, were discovered, by finding them to be the constant haunt of
wild cattle; a similar accident might prove equally advantageous in the
neighbourhood of Port Essington.
To return, however, to the period of the establishment of the colony: it
was of course deemed desirable to take an early opportunity of exploring
Cobourg Peninsula, on which Victoria is situated; and accordingly on May
1st, Lieutenant P.B. Stewart, with several well-armed companions, started
on an exploring expedition. They carried water and a week's provisions on
two ponies, but did not encumber themselves with a tent; sheltering
themselves at night from the dew in little huts made of branches. On the
second day they crossed several running streams, with extensive grassy
patches, and came to a halt during the sultry part of the day on the
banks of a river or chain of pools. Here grew many fine cedar-trees, of a
light colour and close-grained, while thick woods of the mangrove
appeared on all sides: these much impeded their advance, and prevented
them from making any great progress. However, they crossed to the eastern
side of the Peninsula, where they found a rich and beautiful country, in
some parts reminding them of the rich South American forest, rather than
the dreary sameness of an Australian wood. Numerous tracks of the buffalo
seemed to testify to the excellence of the pasture. Several evidences,
also, of the presence of natives were from time to time discovered, and
at length a small party met them and exhibited a very friendly spirit.
They acted as guides to the explorers, showing them where water could be
found, giving every information in their power, and supplying them with
crabs; but of course they did not fail to ask for bread, of which as much
as could be spared was given them. On May 8th, they conducted Lieutenant
Stewart's party back to Middle Head, and he expresses great surprise at
the precision with which they found their way in the bush without having
any apparent means to guide them. I have before alluded to this
instinctive power of the aborigines of Australia.
Lieutenant Stewart gives as the general result of his observations,
extending over about seventy or eighty miles, that there is abundance of
fresh water on the Peninsula; that the South side is by far the finest
and best watered country; that the trees are there free from the white
ant; and that in a large tract of country, the cabbage-palm abounds. He
also observes, that as much of the south coast as he saw, has a coral
reef extending about a mile from the beach; and that the rise and fall of
the tide is much greater than at Port Essington.
The natives were found by the settlers, as we have already stated, very
friendly, and their assistance proved valuable: they brought in the head
of the palm-cabbage, which makes an excellent vegetable, though to
procure it, the tree is cut down and destroyed: they also supplied the
party with wild honey. One of the Raffles Bay tribe instantly made
himself known on the arrival of the Expedition in the Bay; he was called
by the name of Alligator, on account of his huge teeth, though his proper
appellation was Marambari.
From Lieutenant Vallach* of H.M.S. Britomart, I received much valuable
information respecting the natives, whom I find to be divided in three
distinct classes, which do not intermarry. The first is known as
Maudrojilly, the second as Mamburgy, the third as Mandrouilly. They are
very particular about the distinction of classes, but we could never
discover which was the superior and which the inferior class, though it
is supposed by most of those who have inquired into the subject, that the
Madrojilly, or first class, head the others in war, and govern the
affairs of the tribe.
(*Footnote. Lieutenant Vallach died at Moulmain in 1841.)
These aborigines were certainly a fine race, differing in some matters
from the other natives of Australia; their hair was neither curly nor
straight, but crisp. The custom of extracting a front tooth prevails
among them, while the nasal cartilage here as elsewhere was perforated. I
noticed in particular that they did not make use of the boomerang, or
kiley, but of the throwing stick or womera, of a larger kind, however,
than any I have observed elsewhere; the head of their spears was made of
stone. They have a smaller kind, chiefly used to kill birds and other
animals at a considerable distance. They have also large heavy clubs,
while the natives on the South coast carry only the short throwing
stick.* They go wholly naked, except when entering the settlements, on
which occasions they wear a few leaves. Their canoes were chiefly
obtained from the Malays.
(*Footnote. We refer our readers to Mr. Eyre's work, where these and
other weapons are figured.)
I here saw the only musical instrument I ever remarked among the natives
of Australia. It is a piece of bamboo thinned from the inside, through
which they blow with their noses. It is from two to three feet long, is
called ebroo, and produces a kind of droning noise. It is generally made
use of at corrobories or dances, some of which express feats of hunting
and war, while others are very indecent, and reminded us of similar
exhibitions in the East. It was generally remarked that the old clothes
given to these savages disappeared in a most mysterious manner. They were
understood to be sold to the natives inhabiting the loftier parts of the
interior, but of this I entertain very considerable doubt. Sand, in which
the Australian continent abounds, is like everything else proceeding from
the hand of the Creator, not without its uses. On cold nights the natives
make up for their total want of covering, by burying themselves in it,
and nothing can be more irresistibly comic than to see these black lumps
sticking out of the earth, like so many enchanted unfortunates in an
eastern romance. It moreover has other uses, forming a substitute for
soap;* and when cooking turtle it is mixed with earth and sprinkled over
the meat, as we should pepper.
(*Footnote. Their general habits are cleanly.)
One discovery which was made through the medium of the natives, was that
the large tumuli noticed by Captain King and others, and supposed to be
raised by the inhabitants, are the works of a bird; some of them are
thirty feet long and about five feet high; they are always built near
thick bushes in which they can take shelter, at the least alarm. The
edifice is erected with the feet, which are remarkable both for size and
strength, and a peculiar power of grasping; they are yellow while the
body is brown. Nothing can be more curious than to see them hopping
towards these piles on one foot, the other being filled with materials
for building. Though much smaller in shape, in manner they much resemble
moor-fowl. The use made of the mound is to contain eggs, which are
deposited in layers, and are then hatched by the heat generated in part
from decomposition. The instant that the shell bursts, the young bird
comes forth strong and large, and runs without the slightest care being
taken of it by the parent. Of the number of eggs laid by each bird,
seldom more than two are hatched. It is singular that these mounds are
found away from the earth and shells of which they are composed. It seems
difficult to credit that a bird so small could raise a structure so
large. The largest we ever saw was about eight feet high, on one of the
Possession Islands in Endeavour Strait.
The name given to the bird by Mr. Gould is Megapodius tumulus, and it
will be unnecessary to
enter upon any further details concerning it, as he has described it most
interestingly in his work on the birds of Australia.
Great numbers of kangaroos were also found here, which at the period of
our arrival the settlers were just getting into the way of killing. There
are three varieties, of which the largest weighs about 160 pounds. I must
further allude to a most beautiful little opossum which inhabits these
parts. It is about half the size of a full-grown rat, and designated as
Belideus ariel. Its colour and fur greatly resemble the chinchilla, and I
have little doubt that the skin is valuable and might be made an article
of trade. This animal has a membrane between the fore and hind paws,
which aids it to some extent when leaping from bough to bough. It is a
great enemy to the wild bee, devouring them and their nests; the bees the
natives discover by tapping the tree and listening for a buzzing from
within. Those we saw, amounting to nearly a hundred, were about the size
of a fly, of a dusky black colour, and strange to say, were hovering
round an empty tar-barrel. They have been unsuccessfully tried in hives
at Sydney.
Alligators abound, and one of the marines had a very narrow escape from
them. It appears that one of these monsters who had come out of the water
in the night, in search of food, found him sleeping in his hammock, which
he had very injudiciously hung up near the water. The alligator made a
snap at his prize; but startled at this frightful interruption of his
slumbers, the man dexterously extricated himself out of his blanket,
which the unwieldy brute, doubtless enraged at his disappointment,
carried off in triumph. For some time this story was not believed, but
when afterwards the huge reptile, on a similar excursion, was shot, a
portion of the blanket was found in his stomach with the paw of a
favourite spaniel, taken when swimming off the pier head.
Extensive hauls of fish were made on Point Record, amongst which one
species, there called salmon, was most excellent eating.
It is unnecessary for a transient visitor to enlarge upon the birds of
Port Essington, as in Mr. Gould's work we have the result of the labours
of an individual who spent months collecting in the neighbourhood.
The spot selected for our observations was Government House, where nearly
a hundred observations with the sun and stars were made for latitude, the
mean result being 11 degrees 22 minutes 21 seconds South, which strange
to say, was nearly 15 seconds greater than Captain Stanley and Mr. Tyers'
determination: this difference to me was quite unaccountable, as the
instruments used in the Beagle were before and subsequently,
satisfactorily tested at well determined places. The longitude being
affected by the doubtful meridian distance between Sydney and Port
Stephens, we can only give an approximate result; and therefore for the
sake of the longitudes of those places referred to the meridian of Port
Essington, we consider it 132 degrees 12 minutes East of Greenwich.
From the quantity of iron in the rocks at Victoria, it was impossible to
get any satisfactory observation for the variation of the compass. Those
obtained varied from 3/4 to 2 1/2 degrees east.
We found that Mr. Tyers had made about seven months' observations on the
tides, which gave a very irregular rise and fall, varying from two to
thirteen feet. The time of high-water being half past three, at the full
and change. Oxide of iron is found in some places in large quantities,
and is used by the natives to adorn themselves when dancing. This it is
which gives to the coast the peculiar red hue noticed between Cape Croker
and Port Essington. Many of the cliffs were composed of a light-coloured
marl; but the formation is chiefly old arenaceous rocks. Two of the
highest and most remarkable hills on the Peninsula, known as Mounts
Bedwell and Rose, have singular flat tops, bearing some resemblance to
the curious appearance of Cape Bedford. I am inclined to believe this
formation to be floetz trappe. Their elevation is about four hundred
feet, being twice the general height of the Peninsula.
RAFFLES BAY.
The temperature during our stay averaged 82 degrees while land and sea
breezes prevailed. We should not omit to mention, that Lieutenant
Stewart, when visiting Raffles Bay in order to invite the French officers
as above alluded to, found that a deep inlet intervening, formed a good
harbour, to which he gave the name of Port Bremer. Of the old settlement
nothing remained, save the graves of those whose labours had tended to
render this part of Australia another outlet for the surplus population
of the mother country, extending at the same time the blessings of
civilization. The rapid growth of rank vegetation had swept all else
away, and there in solemn solitude, upon that still and silent shore,
mouldered the bones of the original colonists of Raffles Bay, whose
praiseworthy efforts were rendered futile, by the unfavourable reports
forwarded to Government; reports we cannot think entirely free from
prejudice, when we know from Captain Law's account, that one of the
Commandants declared that he felt disposed to sell out of the army in
preference to going there.* One thus prepared to dislike the place, could
scarcely be expected to take an interest in the country, or endeavour
fully to develop its resources.
(*Footnote. See Wilson's Voyage round the World page 153.)
We cannot avoid expressing our regret at the abandonment of the
settlement in Raffles Bay, after it had gone on so far successfully under
Captain Barker's excellent management. In mentioning his kindness to the
natives, to whose goodwill we must always owe much, we have already given
one of the causes which assisted in fostering the undertaking. Nothing
could be more unwise than the hostility shown to the natives by the first
settlers, as from them we must always calculate on learning much that is
useful and valuable, with regard to the productions of the country; a
knowledge which would otherwise consume much time to acquire. This was
not the only matter, however, in which he showed his superior good sense
and judgment. His enticing the people of Macassar to come and locate
there, was another instance of his foresight, which would have led in
time to very favourable results. He was soon, however, compelled to
retract his invitation, writing from Coepang to the Dutch Governor of
Macassar, in order to stop the immigration, which otherwise would have
been considerable. With all these several elements of success, we should
doubtless, but for the abandonment, have now had a flourishing settlement
in Northern Australia. The causes which led to its breaking up, are thus
succinctly given by Dr. Wilson. "The alleged causes were: first, the
unhealthiness of the climate; secondly, the hostility of the natives; and
thirdly, the non-visitation of the Malays."
These he clearly proved, as we have subsequently done, to be without much
foundation; but we ourselves do not so much deplore the leaving of
Raffles Bay, perhaps an ill-chosen site, but rather that the settlement
was not removed instead of being given up. When the anxieties and
difficulties which universally accompany the formation of a new
settlement are reflected on, the regret we have already expressed will be
more easily understood. When Port Essington was located, all these had to
be suffered over again; whereas had the station at Raffles Bay, been
transferred thither at once, it would have been now at a very high pitch
of perfection. Besides, however small the spot on which the English flag
waves constantly, it will always prove a check on the marauding
propensities of the neighbouring islanders, and thus add materially to
the general welfare and civilization of such portions of the globe as
fall within the influence of the respected locality.*
(*Footnote. In further proof of the prospects of success, which were open
to the new settlement under its able Commandant, we give the following
extract from Dr. Wilson's journal, when at Coepang, in company with
Captain Barker, after their final departure from Raffles Bay. "We were
informed by the master of the Mercus, that many Chinese were about to
emigrate from Java to Raffles Bay, having recently learned that they
would be permitted to do so. The total abandonment of the North coast of
New Holland caused much regret to the mercantile people here, as they had
anticipated great advantages from a commercial intercourse.' Wilson's
Narrative page 179.)
LEAVE PORT ESSINGTON.
July 24.
Finding that we could not procure a supply of provisions from the
settlement, our stay was necessarily, though reluctantly, of short
duration, and on the morning of the 24th, we were accordingly running out
of Port Essington. After rounding Vashon Head, we steered to the
westward, along the northern side of the Peninsula, and early in the
afternoon anchored in Popham Bay, one point of which is formed by the
North-West extreme of the Peninsula, a low projection with one tall
mangrove growing on the point, and fronted by an extensive coral reef,
past which a two-knot tide sweeps into the gulf of Van Diemen. On the
eastern side of this projection is a snug boat or small-craft harbour,
much frequented by the Malays, who call it Blue-mud Bay. It may be
recognized by a little island lying off its mouth.
Our attention having been directed towards the openings on the coast
opposite Melville Island, we proceeded towards the first, lying on the
south side of Clarence Strait. It was further important to ascertain, if
that strait was navigable, and also to examine the south-eastern side of
Melville Island.
BIRD ISLAND.
Finding the western shore of Cobourg Peninsula placed too far from Port
Essington on the chart, it was determined to commence the survey at
Popham Bay, choosing for the observation spot a small bank of sand and
dead coral lying in its centre, and bearing East 1/2 South 1/4 of a mile
from where we anchored in nine fathoms. We named this Bird Island, from
finding it almost covered with terns and gulls. The latitude of it
according to our observations was 11 degrees 15 1/2 minutes South and
longitude West of Port Essington 22 1/2 miles, being 4 1/2 less than is
given in Captain King's chart, the North-West extreme of the Peninsula
being there placed too far from Port Essington, and the North-East point,
Cape Croker, too near, it would appear that the discrepancy was chiefly
in the position of Port Essington, with respect to the northern extremes
of the Peninsula, as Captain King and ourselves only now differ two miles
in the distance between Cape Croker and Popham Bay, ours being the
greater. The evening was calm as usual, while midnight brought with it a
fresh South-East wind. During the night the temperature was as low as 73
degrees.
July 25.
On leaving at daylight we crossed over to examine the western shores of
Dundas Strait, formed by the eastern side of Melville Island; Captain
King having passed it in the night. As we stood close along it into the
gulf, we found the soundings very irregular. Six miles North 40 degrees
East from Cape Keith, we passed over two patches of only three or four
fathoms; these we could not see from the general disturbed and
discoloured state of the water, it blowing fresh from South-East. We
found the nature of this part of Melville Island to be low rocky points,
separating sandy bays. One of the few remarkable features on it, is a
round hill 320 feet high, five miles North-West from Cape Keith.
CLARENCE STRAIT.
Passing the latter, we crossed over to the opposite eastern entrance
point of Clarence Strait, Cape Hotham, discovering on our way thither a
reef nearly awash, about two miles in extent, bearing South 25 degrees
West fifteen miles from Cape Keith, and North 10 degrees East fourteen
miles from Cape Hotham. The deepest water we found while crossing was 22
fathoms, five miles north of the latter, the general depth being 13 and
15 fathoms. The wind failing in the afternoon, it was evening when we
reached our anchorage in nine fathoms, Cape Hotham bearing South 43 West,
two miles and a half, and close to the edge of a large shoal which we
subsequently found to extend a mile and a half north, and six miles east
from the Cape. Here we found the tides set West by South and
East-North-East from half a knot to two knots, the westerly stream
beginning nearly three hours after high-water, a peculiarity generally
occurring in straits.
July 26.
After one of those soft and lovely evenings so common to this part of
Australia, with a gentle breeze and cloudless sky, we were surprised to
find that the morning opened dreary and gloomy. There was a very fresh
South-South-East wind with heavy masses of clouds; the breeze continued
until noon, when as usual it subsided. We moved the ship a few miles down
the opening in the south side of the strait, and in the afternoon a party
went on shore near Cape Hotham. We found the country very poor and sandy,
and elevated about fifteen feet above high-water mark. Despite this, the
white gum-trees appear to thrive, growing in great abundance, about
thirty or forty feet high; there were also others of a different kind,
besides a few palms. The rocks were red sand and ironstone blended
together. In some places I noticed it had the same glazed and vitrified
appearance, as before remarked by me at King's Sound, on the North-West
coast.
Mr. Bynoe, who was of the party, added to his collection of birds, a
kingfisher, and a specimen of a glossy species about the size and colour
of an English blackbird; others were seen and killed, but all common to
other parts; the most rare of the latter was the large cream-coloured
pigeon I have alluded to, some few pages back.
NATIVE COMPANION.
The white ibis with a black neck, plentiful in King's Sound, and a large
bird, a species of crane, were also seen. The latter was of a French grey
hue, with the exception of the head, which was black and of the shape of
a bittern, commonly known among the colonists by the name of native
companion. It is difficult to imagine how this name could have
originated, as there is no instance of the natives making a pet of
anything, except the wild dog of the country, and of that only, it is
probable, from its utility in procuring them food. On visiting this place
a few days afterwards, to repeat the observations for the errors of the
chronometers, we saw a few natives, but they avoided an interview,
disappearing when we landed. They made the same motions with their arms,
throwing them open, and bowing as the natives in King's Sound did. The
few huts I fell in with, reminded me of one I had seen near the
North-West part of King's Sound, a representation of which will be found
in the portion of the work descriptive of that locality.
Those on Cape Hotham, to enter more into particulars, did not exceed five
feet in height, nor were they so substantially built; they were, however,
well thatched with the same kind of coarse grass. The entrances were
carefully closed, except in one instance, when the aperture was so small
that it was with difficulty I could crawl in; when I had entered there
was nothing to gratify my curiosity.
NATIVE CLOTHING.
Hanging on trees round these habitations, were specimens of an article of
clothing, never before seen among the Aborigines of Australia, for which
reason I have been induced to give the woodcut of one.* It is a kind of
covering for the shoulders, a species of cape, made from coarse grass.
(*Footnote. I have since heard from Mr. Earl, that the women in the
South-East part of Van Diemen's Gulf, occasionally wear a covering round
their waist, somewhat similar to the representation given.)
Baskets were also left hanging on the trees, bespeaking the honesty of
the inhabitants of this part of the country.
The land near the huts was turned up in search of roots, and close by
were some large clubs. The thermometer fell in the night to 67 degrees,
producing the novel though pleasant sensation of cold.
July 27.
Although apparently we could trace the land, near the head of the opening
or bay, still the great set of tide in that direction, left hopes of its
being the mouth of a river. We have
already alluded to the difficulty of detecting the mouth of Australian
streams, and the doubts thus engendered occasioned the greater anxiety.
Impatient to learn the truth, Mr. Fitzmaurice was despatched to examine
the head of the bay, whilst the ship was moved towards it, anchoring
again one mile North-West from a very remarkable patch of low red cliffs
(which from startling circumstances, hereafter to be related, were called
Escape Cliffs) and only two cables length distant from the coral ledge,
by which this and the shores around were fronted.
VISIT THE SHORE.
Here another party visited the shore, and those whose occupation did not
render their presence necessary near the water, strolled into the
country, penetrating about four or five miles inland, but they were
rewarded by the sight of no novelty, or even variety in the scenery,
beyond what was presented to our view on the visit to Cape Hotham, which
it will readily be allowed was little enough. Indeed it will in general
be found, that in Australia, a change of formation is necessary to
produce any of the scenery, which otherwise exhibits a most monotonous
sameness.
A coarse kind of ironstone gravel was (if I may use the term) scattered
over the face of the country; some of it had a glazed appearance on the
surface, being hollow within, and about the size of a musket ball.
Properly speaking they are composed of a ferruginous sandstone, but they
have been already more fully alluded to when first met with at Point
Cunningham, near King's Sound, on the North-West coast. The general
formation is the same as at Cape Hotham, itself almost identical with the
rocks at Port Essington. A few traces of small kangaroos were seen; but
not a bird or any other living thing two miles from the beach. This
peculiarity the reader will remember was also noticed in the
neighbourhood of King's Sound.
DISCOVERY OF ADELAIDE RIVER.
On returning to the ship we found that Mr. Fitzmaurice had arrived,
bringing the expected, and very gratifying intelligence, that a large
river with two branches, running South-East and South, with a depth of
four fathoms, emptied itself into the head of the bay. The joy a
discovery of this nature imparts to the explorer, when examining a
country so proverbially destitute of rivers as Australia, is much more
easily imagined than described. It formed a species of oasis amid the
ordinary routine of surveying, rousing our energies, and giving universal
delight. The castle-builders were immediately at work, with expectations
beyond the pale of reason.
EXPLORING PARTY.
An exploring party, however, was at once formed, consisting of Captain
Wickham, Lieutenant Emery, and Mr. Helpman, who--the next day being
Sunday--did not leave before the morning of the 29th, with two boats and
four days' provisions.
Many were the anxious and envious looks bestowed on the party as they
left the ship on the deeply interesting service of exploring the new
river. So strong and native is man's desire for the unknown, that his
feelings are never more tried than when on the brink of a discovery,
while those who are in presence of the novelty, and cannot enjoy the
satisfaction of tasting that pleasure, must ever experience somewhat
acute emotions of regret.
There was no difficulty in finding a name for a river which fell into
Clarence Strait; it was at once, therefore, honoured with that of
Adelaide, after her most gracious Majesty the Queen Dowager. The bay that
receives its waters was called after Vice-Admiral Sir Charles Adam. The
remaining part of the south side of Clarence Strait, together with the
islands in the western entrance of it, gave ample, though not such
interesting employment as the exploration of the Adelaide, to those who
were left behind. Several unsuccessful hauls were made with the seine,
fish in Adam Bay being very scarce.
NATIVE FAMILY.
Near Escape Cliffs I met a small family of natives, consisting of an
elderly man, his wife, and four children; by degrees, advancing alone, I
contrived to get near enough to make the woman a present of a
handkerchief, in return for which she gave me a large leaf of the cabbage
palm, that was slung across her back. I at length drew all the family
around me, the eldest child, a youth of about 15, being the most timid.
He had a small piece of wood two feet long, sticking through the
cartilage of his nose. His teeth and those of the other children were
quite perfect, but in the father and mother two of the upper front ones
were gone, as we before noticed was the case with the natives at Port
Essington, where this ceremony is performed after marriage. The hair of
these people was neither curly nor straight, but what I have before
called crisp, being of that wavy nature sometimes noticed in Europeans.
They had with them three small-sized dogs of a light brown colour, of
which they appeared very fond, and I could not induce them to part with
them.
The old man's spear was not barbed, and the womera or throwing stick of
the same long narrow shape as at Port Essington. The woman had also the
same bottle-shaped basket slung over her neck, as before remarked, and
containing white and red earths for painting their bodies.
CURIOSITY AND FEAR.
These people exhibited more curiosity than I had before noticed in the
Aborigines, as I was able to induce them to visit the whaleboat that was
on shore close by. Here, as in other places, the size of the oars first
astonished them, and next the largeness of the boat itself. The
exclamations of surprise given vent to by the old man as he gazed on the
workmanship of his civilized brethren, were amusing; suddenly a loud
shout would burst from his lips, and then a low whistle. I watched the
rapid change of countenance in this wild savage with interest; all his
motions were full of matter for observation. The mixed curiosity and
dread depicted in his dusky face, the feeling of secret alarm at this
first rencontre with a white man intruding in his native wilds, which he
must have experienced, added much to the zest of the scene. I, however,
at length almost persuaded the old man to accompany me on board; he even
put one foot in the boat for the purpose, when seeing the depth of the
interior, he recoiled with a slight shudder, as if from immersion in cold
water. He was now overwhelmed by the woman and elder child with
entreaties not to take such a rash step, and their rude eloquence
succeeded.
It was amusing to see the struggle between fear and curiosity plainly
depicted in the man's face, as he stood with one foot on the boat, and
the other on the shore, hearkening but too credulously to the picture of
danger, forcibly drawn by his friends, while curiosity, with almost equal
strength, was urging him to dare the perils of the white man's boat.
A desire to be better acquainted with the strangers who had come to the
shores of his native land in a large bird--such being their strange idea
of a ship, the sails forming the wings--no doubt materially influenced
him; but the eloquence of his relatives prevailed over all; and this
interesting interview terminated by our leaving the shore without our
sable friend, who, however, promised to visit the ship in an old bark
canoe, about 20 feet long, that was lying on the beach near at hand. This
promise was faithfully kept, for the same evening, a canoe was seen
paddling off, containing two young natives in addition to the old man.
They stopped at some distance from the ship, moving round to view her on
all sides.
ATTEMPT TO ENTICE NATIVES ON BOARD.
Fearing at last that their courage had failed, and that they would not
come on board, the dinghy, our smallest boat, was sent towards them,
there being only a boy besides myself in it.
I had hoped that thus they would not be frightened, but they instantly
began to move towards the shore, and it required some manoeuvring to get
near them; succeeding at length, however, I found my acquaintance of the
morning anxious to go to the ship, a measure the other two did not at all
approve of, as they kept edging away towards the land, whilst I gave the
old man the presents I had brought him. At one time the dinghy got
between the canoe and the shore, when instantly a gleam of terror flashed
across the faces of the young men. One of them was a large square-headed
fellow of ferocious aspect, whose countenance was lit up by a look of
fierce revenge, as the canoe made towards the land, after I had ceased my
endeavours to entice them on board.
Whatever these people may have imagined to be our motive in wishing them
to visit the ship, I little thought that my pressing them would have so
nearly led to fatal results. I shall proceed to explain this remark by
relating the startling circumstances from which Escape Cliffs received
their name.
NARROW ESCAPE OF MR. FITZMAURICE.
A few days after my interview in the dinghy with the natives, Mr.
Fitzmaurice went ashore to compare the compasses. From the quantity of
iron contained in the rocks, it was necessary to select a spot free from
their influence. A sandy beach at the foot of Escape Cliffs was
accordingly chosen. The observations had been commenced, and were about
half completed, when on the summit of the cliffs, which rose about twenty
feet above their heads, suddenly appeared a large party of natives with
poised and quivering spears, as if about immediately to deliver them.
Stamping on the ground, and shaking their heads to and fro, they threw
out their long shaggy locks in a circle, whilst their glaring eyes
flashed with fury as they champed and spit out the ends of their long
beards.* They were evidently in earnest, and bent on mischief.
(*Footnote. A custom with Australian natives when in a state of violent
excitement.)
DANCING FOR LIFE.
It was, therefore, not a little surprising to behold this paroxysm of
rage evaporate before the happy presence of mind displayed by Mr.
Fitzmaurice, in immediately beginning to dance and shout, though in
momentary expectation of being pierced by a dozen spears. In this he was
imitated by Mr. Keys, who was assisting in the observations, and who at
the moment was a little distance off, and might have escaped. Without,
however, thinking of himself, he very nobly joined his companion in
amusing the natives; and they succeeded in diverting them from their
evident evil designs, until a boat landing in a bay near drew off their
attention. The foremost of this party was recognised to be the
ill-looking fellow, who left me in the canoe with a revengeful scowl upon
his face.
Messrs. Fitzmaurice and Keys had firearms lying on the ground within
reach of their hands; the instant, however, they ceased dancing, and
attempted to touch them, a dozen spears were pointed at their breasts.
Their lives hung upon a thread, and their escape must be regarded as
truly wonderful, and only to be attributed to the happy readiness with
which they adapted themselves to the perils of their situation. This was
the last we saw of the natives in Adam Bay, and the meeting is likely to
be long remembered by some, and not without pleasant recollections; for
although, at the time, it was justly looked upon as a very serious
affair, it afterwards proved a great source of mirth. No one could recall
to mind, without laughing, the ludicrous figure necessarily cut by our
shipmates, when to amuse the natives, they figured on the light fantastic
toe; and the readers, who look at the plate representing this really
serious affair,* will behold two men literally dancing for their lives.
(*Footnote. See above.)
RETURN OF THE BOATS.
August 2.
This morning the boats returned; they had gone up the Adelaide in a
general southerly direction, nearly 80 miles: the windings of the river,
which were very great in some places, forming the shape of the letter S.
It became at this distance very narrow, and was divided into two
branches, one taking a southerly direction, the other an easterly; the
latter was too narrow for the boat's oars, while the former was blocked
up by fallen trees lying across it. As in addition to the difficulties
just mentioned, only one day's provision remained in the boats, the
further exploration of the Adelaide was necessarily, though reluctantly,
abandoned.
BANKS OF THE ADELAIDE.
For thirty miles of the upper part of the river the water was fresh;
while the banks, excepting near the point of separation, were low, being
not more than five feet above the present level of the river, a
circumstance very favourable for irrigation, and the cultivation of rice.
Fifteen miles from the mouth they were fringed by the growth of
mangroves; and higher up many of the points were thickly wooded, while on
either side stretched a vast extent of prairie country, dotted here and
there with islands of timber, which served to break the native monotony
of the scene. Somewhat less than halfway up, rose on both banks a thick
jungle of bamboo, which, in places where the water was always fresh,
attained the gigantic height of from 60 to 80 feet. Between 20 and 70
miles from the mouth the soil is a good light-coloured mould; above this,
commencing where the bank of the river is marked by a coarse red gritty
sandstone projection, the aspect of the country changes from that of low
plains to a slightly wooded and gently undulating surface, in some places
stony. This character continued to the furthest point reached in the
boats, in latitude 12 degrees 57 minutes South, and longitude 131 degrees
19 minutes East.
When they had penetrated thus far into the new lands of Australia, the
explorers returned, having experienced those sensations of delightful
excitement, to which we have before alluded, and which naturally called
forth strong emotions of regret in those who were denied a participation
in the feverish enjoyment of discovery.
From the highest tree at Captain Wickham's furthest point, the appearance
of the country was, as far as the eye could reach, one wearisome level,
broken to the southward, at a distance of ten miles, by a rocky mound
about 150 feet high.
UPPER PART OF THE RIVER.
The river, which for some distance had not been fifty yards wide, with a
rocky bed in places, and banks from six to twenty feet high, was subject
at this point to a tidal change of level of about three feet, but there
was no perceptible stream, and the water which a few miles lower down had
been muddy, was here quite clear. Small bamboos and other drift were
observed in the branches of the trees eight or ten feet above the water,
showing the height which the river attains at some seasons of the year.
By the hollows on many of the plains, water appeared to have lain some
time, and doubtless parts of this low land were periodically overflowed.
On the point dividing the upper branches of the river some coarse sand
was washed up, which on examination was found to be of a granitic
character, clearly showing the primary formation of the country through
which the Adelaide flowed. The only rocks noticed in the parts traversed
by the boats were, as I have before said, of red porous sandstone. The
smoke of several large fires was observed up the country, but none of the
natives were seen.
MONKEY-BIRDS.
Towards the upper part of the river they noticed a strange bird, very
much like a guineafowl in size and manner of running along the ground.
The colour was speckled white and brown. This, doubtless, from Mr.
Bynoe's description of one he wounded on the coast in the neighbourhood
of the Adelaide, must have been the Leipoa ocellata of Gould, one of the
mound or tumuli-building birds, first seen in Western Australia by Mr.
George Moore, and afterwards on the North-west coast, and in South
Australia by Captain Grey. Although known to range over a large expanse
of the continent, this was the first time it was discovered in Northern
Australia.
In the reaches where the bamboo grew, flights of large vampires
(resembling the Pteropus rubricollis of Geoff.) were met with: they kept
continually flying to and fro close over the boats as they passed up,
making a screeching disagreeable noise, which, however, was far less
unpleasant than the mildewy odour with which they filled the air, calling
to mind the exclamation placed by our immortal bard in the mouth of
Trinculo. The heavy flap of the leathern wings of these monkey-birds, as
the men called them, was singular, while sometimes a flight would darken
the verdure of a bamboo, which, yielding to their weight, bent low, as if
before a passing gust of wind. To fix themselves appeared always a
difficult, and was certainly a noisy operation, each apparently striving
to alight upon the same spot. They first cling to the bamboo by means of
the long claw, or hook attached to the outer edge of the wing, and then
gradually settle themselves.
The river swarmed with alligators. Fish also abounded; and in the salt
water, a kind commonly known in the river Plate by the name of Cat-fish,
is plentiful. One that we caught was of the enormous weight of twenty
pounds. A large kind of dark bream of excellent flavour was taken in
fresh water.
WOOD-DUCKS.
Many of the reaches also swarmed with wildfowl, consisting almost wholly
of ducks, which, from a habit of perching on the trees, have received the
name of wood-ducks. They were very different and far superior in plumage
to those found on the south-eastern parts of the continent, and as they
have not yet been numbered among the Australian birds so vividly
described by Mr. Gould, we may venture to be somewhat minute in
describing them.
They are inferior in size to the common European wild duck, but are
marked in much the same manner on the breast. The back is a dark brown,
while the wings, still darker, are slightly bronzed at the tips. Their
singularly long legs are of a pale flesh colour, while the web on the
foot is very much arched near the toes, giving greater pliability to the
foot and a power of grasping, which enables them to perch on trees. The
head and bill, the latter of a pale ash colour, are both large. When on
the wing they make a peculiar though pleasing whistling sound, that can
be heard at a great distance,* and which changes as they alight, into a
sort of chatter. Their perching on trees is performed in a very clumsy
manner, swinging and pitching to and fro. We subsequently often found
them on the rivers on the North coast, but not within some miles of their
mouths or near their upper waters, from which it would appear that they
inhabit certain reaches of the rivers only: we never found them in
swamps. The farthest south they were afterwards met with, was on the
Albert River in the Gulf of Carpentaria, in latitude 18 degrees South,
which gives them a range of six and a half degrees of latitude over the
northern part of the continent. Their nests never came under our notice,
and consequently we are not aware either of the size or colour of their
eggs; neither did we see any young birds during the period of our
observation, ranging from July to November only.**
(*Footnote. Mr. Eyre has since informed me that there is a
whistling-duck, something similar, on the Murray River, but is not aware
that it has the peculiar habit of perching on trees.)
(**Footnote. Mr. Gould, who had previously described this bird
(Leptotarais Eytoni) being desirous of figuring it in his splendid work,
has been furnished with this account.)
EXPLORATION OF THE SOUTHERN BRANCH OF THE ADELAIDE.
August 4.
The southern arm of the Adelaide River, and about fifteen miles near the
mouth of the other branch, still remaining to be explored, I started on
this interesting service the day of the return of Captain Wickham, August
4th. We soon found that the one we ascended promised nothing, from there
being no tidal stream of any consequence; still we hoped to trace its
rejunction with the main branch, but after proceeding in a general South
by West direction five miles, and East-South-East the same distance, it
became so narrow that the mangroves on each side entirely blocked up the
passage, and stopped the boat's progress. I here again felt the
inconvenience of our not being furnished with one of the pendulum
horizons, invented by Captain Becher, R.N.* It being high-water, and as
the shore was lined with an impenetrable growth of mangroves, we were
unable to land. In vain did I try, by cutting down some of them, to find
a rest for the artificial horizon on one of the stumps; they were so
connected with each other beneath the water, by a perfect network of
roots, that although several of the surrounding trees were felled, a
tremulous motion was still conveyed from a distance, and I consequently
lost the observation for latitude.
(*Footnote. I strongly recommend this ingenious invention to every
seaman. In foggy weather it will save hours of anxiety, and may often
prevent the horrors of shipwreck.)
The saltwater arm of the Adelaide we found had another branch, which took
us eight miles in a South-West direction, terminating like the other, and
at low-water being a mere ditch. There was nothing picturesque in
following the windings of these creeks or inlets; a tall growth of
mangroves with their stems immersed, rendering the view limited and
wearisome. We, however, were urged on by hope, being in momentary
expectation that each turn would bring some change, while to add to the
zest of our proceedings we felt ourselves to be the first Europeans who
had traversed these parts.
Now and then the deep stillness of nature would be broken by the mournful
cry of a curlew, disturbed by the splash of the oars, while sometimes a
heavy flapping of wings was heard amid the mangroves, and out would start
suddenly three or four white ibises with black necks, giving utterance to
a peculiar cry, which faintly resembles that of the male guinea fowl. All
else was deep unbroken silence.
By evening we had again reached the entrance of the river, where we
passed the night, during which there was a very heavy dew.
August 5.
The lower part of the Adelaide having been already explored, prevented us
from experiencing that depth of interest which we should otherwise have
felt; still we were destined to enjoy our share of pleasurable
sensations, as on the result of our examination depended the important
fact of whether the river was navigable for large vessels. We therefore
started to settle this momentous question, even before the eastern sky
was tinted with orange from the rising of the sun, which in these
latitudes gives no glimmering twilight: day fading and appearing
instantaneously, the rapidity of the change presenting a remarkable
effect.
EXTENSIVE REACHES.
Passing a narrow part, formed by two low red cliffy projections, we
entered a wide reach that had an extensive flat of 2 and 2 1/2 fathoms
water on the south side. The next was similarly circumstanced, the shoal
water of the same depth, being, however, on the west side. Still in both
there was a 3-fathom channel at low-water, and in the reaches above,
seven in number, trending in a general South-South-East direction, about
twice that depth. This imparted to our discoveries the stamp of utility,
and as Captain Wickham found it navigable for thirty miles higher up
where the water is fresh, we may pronounce the Adelaide the deepest river
in Australia.
MEET A CANOE.
Proceeding upwards, we met a party of natives about seven miles from the
mouth, in a very pretty bark canoe, fifteen feet long, and about two
deep. The bark was sewn together with much neatness, and it was
altogether the most artistic piece of workmanship I had seen among the
Aborigines of Australia. It was the last of that description we met with
in this direction, for we did not find canoes in use with the natives to
the westward of Clarence Strait, but only rafts, a fact alluded to in an
earlier portion of the work.
ALARM OF THE NATIVES.
Two young men only were in the craft, which ran close in under the
mangroves, through which we could see other natives passing. By
proceeding cautiously and slowly, I got pretty close to them. They were
evidently afraid that if they left it we should take their boat, and this
gave them courage to face the strange white men. Terror, however, was
marked in their countenances, and one of the two leaped on shore, as we
approached, in a state of great excitement, jumping and flinging his arms
about violently; whilst sometimes he would dip up a handful of water and
squirt it out with great force from the corners of his mouth. The size of
the boat appeared, as usual, to astonish the lad who remained in the
canoe. He appeared less frightened than the other, and I induced him to
accept a few presents from the end of a long stick. Though they had a
deficiency in the upper front teeth, they had not disfigured any other
part of their bodies. The stature of the two young men was small, perhaps
5 feet 7 inches, but those behind the mangroves were much taller.
Alligators being so very numerous I was surprised to notice what little
dread the natives appeared to have of them, dancing and wading about in
the water near the bank, as if they and the animal had entered into a
treaty of amity.
Their alarm appearing to have worn off, we continued our journey, but by
hoisting the sail, the good effect was in a great measure
counterbalanced, as the sight of it called forth a yell from the whole of
them, which catching the echoes, reverberated from side to side, and
resounded in our ears for some time afterwards. Proceeding, we gained the
end of the twelfth reach early in the afternoon, when we obtained
observations for longitude, that being the highest part of the river not
surveyed, and distant about fifteen miles from the mouth; we had also
just reached the portion frequented by the peculiar whistling wild duck,
of which we bagged about twenty, forming an agreeable addition to our
evening and next day meals. After concluding the observations, we
examined the country for some distance; a level tract met the eye
wherever it wandered, broken here and there by patches of low trees. The
plains were thinly dotted with a coarse wiry grass. In places near
hollows, where water had collected, the soil, which was a dark kind of
clayey mould, cracked and curled up with the heat. A few shells were
found scattered over the plains, of the kind so common on the north-east
coast (Helix).
The tedious uniformity and sameness in the banks of the Adelaide, thus
far, may be illustrated by the fact, that to know the boat's position on
returning, it was necessary to have the sketch of the river constantly
before our eyes, and to reckon each reach as we passed.
ALLIGATORS.
Taking the return tide, we passed the night in the fourth reach; very
stringent orders were given to the watch to keep a sharp lookout for
alligators, as a great many had been seen during the day, while we knew
that on the previous night a monster of this description had attempted to
get into one of the boats. We had fired at several, but with one
exception had done no mischief. To be roused by the noise of the boat's
keel or side grating harshly against the scaly back of an alligator, is
far from being a pleasant occurrence, and on such occasions I generally
found myself clutching a pistol, always kept near me, for the purpose of
executing judgment upon the very first flat head that showed his nose
above the gunwale. Entertaining very vivid recollections of our
experience on Fitzroy River, on the first start of the boats great
preparations were made against the mosquitoes; to our agreeable surprise,
however, we experienced but slight annoyance from them. The exemption,
however, was fully made up by the swarms of flies which infest the
Adelaide, and during mealtimes availed themselves of the opportunity of
popping into our mouths.
There had been a fresh North-East wind the latter part of the day, which
dying away was succeeded by a calm and cloudless night with a heavy dew.
The thermometer was down to 77 degrees, and in the day varied from 87 to
92.
RETURN OF THE BOATS.
August 6.
We got on board in the forenoon, when the result of our examination was
heard with a satisfaction not easily expressed, but which may be readily
imagined. We felt that we had discovered a river navigable for vessels of
four and five hundred tons, for about fifty miles, and into fresh water,
a thing hitherto unknown in Australia. We may then with justice
congratulate ourselves on the importance of the discovery of the
Adelaide.
ADAM BAY.
The bay into which it flows, named after Sir Charles Adam, is six miles
deep and ten broad at the entrance, where there are 9 fathoms. The shores
gradually approach each other, and at the head, where it receives the
waters of the Adelaide, the width is only one mile.
The mouth of the river is fronted with shoals that extend out five miles;
the channel between them is narrow, 3 and 4 fathoms deep, and lies on the
western side of the bay. A guide for the mouth of it is the east entrance
point of the river, bearing South 40 degrees East.
The generally discoloured state of the water prevents the shoals from
being seen, as well as the coral reefs extending from half to three
quarters of a mile off the east side of the bay, where there is excellent
anchorage. Sea and land breezes prevailed; the former blowing from the
North-West which gave it the advantage of being of easy access either
from the westward through Clarence Strait, or from the eastward through
that of Dundas. The spring tides sometimes rise 18 feet, when the time of
high-water is six o'clock. The stream set North-East and North-West from
half to one knot, changing to the latter direction two and a half hours
after high-water. Our observations place Escape Cliffs (too remarkable
and conspicuous to be overlooked, and which ships should anchor abreast
of) in latitude 12 degrees 8 1/2 minutes South and longitude 0 degrees 15
minutes West of Port Essington. The variation of the compass was 2
degrees easterly. I was able at this anchorage, by a bearing of a distant
point, to ascertain the local attraction in the ship, which in no
instance exceeded 1 degree, being the amount we had found at Plymouth,
previous to our departure from England. Our deeply interesting researches
on the south side of Clarence Strait, leading to so important a
discovery, were now concluded.
EXAMINE MELVILLE ISLAND.
The success which had rewarded our efforts, made us wish to cling to the
spot, and it was therefore almost with regret that we found ourselves
leaving to examine the southern shores of Melville Island, where we
anchored two miles from the beach, and fifteen within the west entrance
of the strait. A quarter of a mile off the sandy flat, extending some
distance from the shore, there was one fathom of water, being a very
gradual decrease from six where the ship lay.
The necessary angles and bearings for the survey, were taken from the top
of some cliffs sixty feet high, composed of a red sand and ironstone, and
a white kind of marl or pipe clay. The shore trended nearly South-West
and North-East. Six miles in the former direction is an inlet which Mr.
Fitzmaurice has visited from the Vernon Isles, and another much smaller,
about a third of the intervening distance from where we stood. The high
land which was almost level, lay about three miles in our rear, following
the trend of the shore. Two peaks rising in hollows on it attained an
elevation of 260 and 290 feet. There were no rocky points visible at
low-water--a clean sandy beach, which appeared, strange to say, to have
been washed occasionally by a heavy surf, forming the coastline. A
singular clump of Casuarina was close to the westward of the cliffs, and
its dark naked aspect contrasted with the stunted gumtrees and scattered
palms, sparingly sprinkled over this sterile tract of country. With the
exception of a few seabirds, there was nothing living stirring to change
the opinion we have just expressed of this part of Melville Island. Our
visit, however, was not to be forgotten in an instant, although no very
pleasing recollections were connected with it.
GREEN ANTS.
Whilst taking a few angles near the cliffs, we suddenly experienced a
series of severe bites or nippings in several parts of our body, and
looking round to discover whence arose this unexpected attack, found
ourselves under a tree covered with large green ants. Their bites were
exceedingly painful, and it was only by beating and tearing off our
clothes that we could rid ourselves of these unwelcome visitors. From a
distance our appearance must have been sufficiently amusing. One moment
soberly intent upon our duties, and the next jumping like madmen, and
hastily stripping off our garments. The name of Ant Cliffs records our
visit to the south shores of Melville Island. The tide on this side of
the strait ran nearly two knots an hour, following the direction of the
shore; the time of high-water being a quarter of an hour earlier than in
Adam Bay.
August 15.
Recrossed Clarence Strait to obtain observations for rating the
chronometers, and examine the extensive shoal off Cape Hotham. On
anchoring near its edge, a patch with only five feet was discovered close
to the ship; the muddy and restless state of the water, caused by a
meeting of the tides, setting out of Van Diemen's Gulf and Adam Bay,
renders it necessary to approach Cape Hotham from the northward, with
caution. However, the unusually great depth, for this strait, of twenty
fathoms, will give warning of a ship's proximity to this danger, the
limits of which have been given on the occasion of our first visit to
Cape Hotham.
WANT OF WATER.
Our stock of water being now much reduced, it was necessary before
proceeding further, that we should procure a supply. As it was a matter
of no certainty that we should find sufficient on the coast to the
westward, it was at first suggested that we should take the ship up the
Adelaide and fill the tanks from alongside. This would have been a grand
feat, having never before been accomplished in any river in Australia.
Indeed it was the only one on the whole continent, which could carry up a
vessel of the Beagle's draught into fresh water. An idea, the realization
of which would so completely crown our exploration with success,
naturally gave rise to a great degree of enthusiasm and excitement. Soon,
however, more sober thoughts prevailed, when we reflected on the time
this proceeding would consume, on account of the tortuous* course of the
river: time which we could, with our scanty stock of provisions, ill
spare. At Port Essington it was possible we should be able to get a
supply of both, as a ship might have arrived during our absence. Moreover
it was highly important, that we should make known without delay, the
discovery of a river of such magnitude as the Adelaide, distant only
seventy miles from the settlement.
(*Footnote. Nothing shows the flat nature of a country more than the
tortuous course of a stream passing through it. It is a want of change in
the level, which causes a river to twist and wind about in search, as it
were, of the weakest spot for its exit.)
RETURN TOWARDS PORT ESSINGTON.
It was then finally resolved that we should return to Port Essington, and
in the forenoon of the 17th, the Beagle was drifting along the western
shore of Dundas Strait, out of Van Diemen's Gulf. The day happening, very
remarkably for the locality at this season, to be calm throughout, the
anchor was dropped at sunset in 22 fathoms; Cape Fleming the North-East
point of Melville Island, bearing North-West 1/2 West eight miles. A deep
sandy bay bore South-West five miles, which promised good anchorage. The
appearance of the north-east part of Melville Island was still very
triste, presenting to the eye nothing save patches of mangroves, behind
which rose a range of ill-defined hills, 300 feet in elevation.
(*Footnote. The tide out of Van Diemen's Gulf takes a North-West
direction, until coming in contact with Cape Keith, it branches off along
the east and south side of Melville Island.)
We anchored to prevent being taken back through Dundas Strait by the
return tide, which from 5 P.M., to midnight, set South-East by South from
two to three knots an hour. High-water at Popham Bay on the east side of
the Strait being at a quarter past eleven, we may conclude the North-West
stream began at this anchorage three quarters of an hour after
high-water. Weighing as soon as the tide made out of the strait, although
there was still no wind, we were rather surprised at daylight to find how
little the ship had drifted to the North-North-West. The only reason I
can give in explanation is that the ebb or North-West stream out of the
gulf joins with, and is thrown out of its course by the easterly or ebb
stream setting past Cape Fleming.
ARRIVAL AT THE PORT.
A breeze springing up late in the morning, we beat along the north side
of the Cobourg Peninsula, entering Port Essington at dusk. In working
round Vashon Head, we found the water shoal very rapidly to 12, 9, and 7
fathoms on approaching it; on the bearing South 30 degrees West. This
head is fronted by a reef of some extent, which similar to the other at
the entrance of Port Essington, cannot be distinguished, owing to the
muddy colour of the water; it is therefore necessary that the lead should
be kept constantly going when in its vicinity. When daylight broke, we
found no fresh arrival to greet our anxious gaze, the Britomart being
still the only guardian of the port. Her solitary aspect at once
destroyed our hopes of supplies, and on reaching the settlement our fears
proved to have too much foundation. Hope, however, is the last feeling
which leaves the human breast, and in this instance did not desert us; as
there was still a chance of a vessel arriving, while we were engaged in
watering the ship.
VICTORIA THEATRE.
The news of our discovery of the Adelaide was hailed with infinite
satisfaction, and the numerous speculations and ideas on the subject
which were at once afloat, afforded an agreeable variety to the monotony
of existence in the settlement, where however at the moment of our
arrival an unusual degree of excitement prevailed through the activity of
Captain Stanley.
THEATRICAL AMUSEMENTS.
Ever anxious to provide for the amusement of others, he had been for some
time engaged in getting up a play, which was now nearly ready to be
performed. Its name I regret to have forgotten; it was however nothing
very deep, and was selected from a volume that had already performed a
voyage to the North Pole. This adventurous playbook, which had certainly
done its duty, was originally picked up by its owner on Tower-hill. The
scenery was painted by Captain Stanley with earths of the country, who
also was stage manager and general planner of the whole. The wives of
some of the garrison supplied female costumes, while a large workshop was
converted into a theatre. At length, after the difficulties usually
attendant on private theatricals, everything was in readiness for the
first performance of the drama in Northern Australia. Tickets were
issued, of which I have one before me, a small piece of card containing
the words "Victoria Theatre, Port Essington, August 24th, 1839." In after
years this will be looked upon as a curious relic in connection with the
history of this part of the continent. As if to cause the first
performance of a play at Victoria, to take place under smiling auspices,
such as the occasion properly called for, H.M.S. Pelorus arrived with
supplies and letters from Sydney. The previous growing dearth of
provisions had rendered it somewhat difficult to secure a very happily
disposed audience, an empty stomach being apt to provoke fault finding:
but the arrival of a ship on the very play day caused a crowded and
delighted attendance. Everything went off smoothly, and with hearty peals
of laughter. All the characters being supported by men, the female
personages of the drama presented a most grotesque appearance; moreover
the act drop being an old ensign, the ladies could be seen through it,
regaling themselves, during these intervals, with a pipe. The whole
affair gave infinite satisfaction, while ours was greatly enhanced, and
our minds prepared for any duty, by the timely arrival of supplies and
letters, of both of which we fortunately received our share.
Our departure from Port Essington, was not therefore hurried; and I had
some slight opportunity of adding to my knowledge, with regard to the
capabilities of the place, which were found to grow upon acquaintance.
The fact of its being well fitted for the growth of cotton was in
particular a great additional recommendation. The sallow appearance of
the settlers clearly demonstrated the temperature to be high, though
apparently there was no diminution in physical strength. It should
however be remembered that up to this time they had not had the same
nourishment as those who appeared amongst them as transient visitors,
with ruddy faces. The warmth of the climate in itself conduces to
intemperance, which to Europeans is ever fatal.
The Pelorus brought orders for the Britomart to proceed to Sydney.
PASSAGE THROUGH TORRES STRAIT.
Captain Stanley was anxious--with the westerly monsoon--to have attempted
the passage through Torres Strait, instead of going round the west coast,
as such a course might have led to some discoveries in that
neighbourhood; a result always in such a service of the utmost
importance.
It is however to be regretted that the senior officer did not approve of
this plan, as the passage has only once been made from the westward by
Captain Lihou, R.N., who having experienced some difficulties reported
unfavourably of it. The importance of an intimate acquaintance with this
route will be better appreciated, when we reflect that ultimately through
this passage will the great traffic be carried on between our East Indian
and Australian possessions.
During our visit to Port Essington, some of the changes among our
officers, mentioned in the beginning of the work, took place. Mr. Forsyth
joined us from the Pelorus, and, from his knowledge of surveying, was a
valuable addition to our party.
SKETCH OF VICTORIA.
Having said so much in relation to Port Essington on our former visit,
and wishing to create among our readers an interest in the locality, we
give a slight sketch of the appearance of the settlement from the
anchorage, which will be more effective than our most elaborate
description of it.
EVIL EXAMPLE OF CONVICTS.
Before taking leave of this new colony, we must at once express a hope
that it will not be made a Penal settlement; not that we doubt the
wonderful degree in which the convict system has hastened the prosperity
of our possessions on the south-eastern part of the continent; but from
the proximity of northern Australia to the islands in the Arafura
sea--the waters separating them being often navigable for boats--the
natives would be contaminated and vitiated, their women corrupted, and
the badly disposed among the islanders rendered worse; and instead of our
advent bringing with it the light of the gospel, and the real and
substantial blessings of civilization, we should enjoy the unenviable
privilege of still further degenerating the savage. The evil thus caused
in New Zealand has been incalculable; to the bad example of convicts we
owe much of the ills which have there arisen; the fine fearless bearing
of the wild man, has been partially exchanged for the low cunning,
acquired from the runaway felon; who reckless of his own life can have no
regard for that of others. The worst crimes of the dregs of a civilized
population have been introduced; and many of those wretched beings, who
might otherwise have been reclaimed from the rude vices of savage life,
have, through the white man's instrumentality, perished in sin.*
(*Footnote. I knew an instance of a convict, who when dying actually
picked a man's pocket. The ruling passion, strong in death, was here
painfully exemplified. J.L.S.)
The number of Malay proas that visit this part of the continent, would
also furnish facilities for the escape of convicts from the neighbourhood
of Port Essington.
We shall now fulfil our promise to the reader, of laying before him
Captain Stanley's interesting cruise to the islands we have just alluded
to, which will occupy the remaining portion of the present volume.