Leave Sydney.
Gale and Current.
Port Stephens.
Tahlee.
River Karuah.
Stroud.
Wild Cattle.
Incivility of a Settler.
River Allyn.
Mr. Boydell.
Cultivation of Tobacco.
A clearing Lease.
William River.
Crossing the Karuah at Night.
Sail from Port Stephens.
Breaksea Spit.
Discover a Bank.
Cape Capricorn.
Northumberland Isles.
Sandalwood.
Cape Upstart.
Discover a River.
Raised Beach.
Section of Barrier Reef.
Natives.
Plants and Animals.
Magnetical Island.
Halifax Bay.
Height of Cordillera.
Fitzroy Island.
Hope Island.
Verifying Captain King's Original Chart.
Cape Bedford.
New Geological Feature.
Lizard Island.
Captain Cook.
Barrier and Reefs within.
Howick Group.
Noble Island.
Cape Melville.
Reef near Cape Flinders.
Princess Charlotte's Bay.
Section of a detached Reef.
Tide at Claremont Isles.
Restoration Island.
Islands fronting Cape Grenville.
Boydan Island.
Correct Chart.
Tides.
Cairncross Island.
Escape River.
Correct position of Reefs.
York Isles.
Tides.
Torres Strait.
Endeavour Strait.
Booby Island.
Remarks on Barrier and its contiguous Islands and Reefs.
Cape Croker and reef off it.
Discover error in longitude of Cape.
Reefs at the mouth of Port Essington.
Arrive at the latter.
May 22.
We again bade adieu to our friends at Sydney, and sailed to explore the
north-western part of the continent, which from the number of openings
still unexamined, possessed the interest that invariably attaches to
whatever is unknown. We submitted, accordingly, with impatience to the
delay caused by light north-westerly winds, and a southerly current of
nearly a knot per hour, which prevented us from reaching the parallel of
Port Macquarie before the 29th; when about forty miles from it we
experienced a gale,* from North-East and East-North-East, that lasted
till the evening of the next day, when we found ourselves about 140 miles
South-East of Port Stephens. During this gale the southerly current
increased its velocity to two miles an hour, and its strength appeared to
be about seventy miles from the land. This delay rendered it necessary to
obtain a fresh chronometric departure, and as the winds prevented our
returning to Port Jackson, we proceeded to Port Stephens, where we
anchored, June 5th. We found the Admiralty chart of the coast in the
neighbourhood very defective, some islands being completely omitted,
whilst others were much misplaced.
(*Footnote. This gale was from South-East at Sydney, and the most severe
they had experienced for many years; it blew many vessels adrift and did
other damage.)
REMARKABLE HEADLANDS. PORT STEPHENS.
I have before spoken of the change in the features of this portion of the
eastern coast. Here a number of conical hills, from four to six hundred
feet in height, suddenly presented themselves to our view, two of them,
very remarkable headlands, and preserving the aboriginal names of Yacaba
and Tomare, constitute the entrance points of Port Stephens. The sea-face
of Tomare is a high line of cliffs, from which projects a sand-spit,
leaving only a narrow entrance. When in this I noticed that a round hill
at the south end of a distant range, was over the opening between the
first island and the northern shore of the harbour. Within the entrance
are extensive sandbanks, leaving between them and the south shore a
narrow, and in some parts deep, channel, subject to a rapid stream of
tide. Port Stephens may be considered a large estuary, about fifteen
miles in length, contracted near the centre to a width of about a mile,
which is further lessened by the presence of a woody islet, the same I
have before alluded to. Nearly two miles within this narrow the Beagle
anchored off the settlement of the Australian Agricultural Company, a
straggling village called Carrington, on the western shore of the
harbour.
TAHLEE.
On the side of a hill, half a mile to the westward, is the residence of
the superintendent, a situation which, to enhance the pleasure of our
visit, was held by Captain P.P. King, R.N. Tahlee, the name of this spot,
surpassed in beauty all I have ever seen in Australia. It stands on the
crest of a steep grassy slope, over which are scattered numerous small
bushy lemon trees, the deep verdure of their foliage, interspersed with
golden fruit, contrasting charmingly with the light green carpet from
which they spring. At the foot of this declivity, a screen of trees
rising to a considerable height, almost shuts out the view of the water,
though breaks here and there allow small patches to be seen, athwart
which a native canoe occasionally glides to and from the fishing grounds.
These fairy boats, stealing along the water on a fine calm morning,
greatly enhance the beauty of the scene. They belong to a party of
natives who have taken up their quarters near Tahlee, and who, though by
no means a fine race, have always been well disposed towards Europeans.
Unfortunately they are much addicted to the use of ardent spirits, having
acquired the habit from the whalers who frequent the place. A young woman
and her husband form part of the domestic establishment at Tahlee.
We were as much delighted as surprised with the richness of the
vegetation, when compared with its dry parched appearance at
Sydney--another of the striking contrasts characteristic of Australia.
At Captain King's table I tasted the wonga-wonga pigeon; it is the
largest of any of the Australian kinds, and the flesh is very white and
rich. It is a difficult bird to shoot, as it always keeps in the thickest
foliage, and is strong and quick on the wing.
Through the kindness of the same friend I was also enabled to enjoy a
ride into the country, during the interval between the observations for
rating the chronometers.
RIVER KARUAH.
I had to ascend the Karuah river, flowing into the north-west corner of
Port Stephens, for twelve miles, to a place called Boorral, the furthest
point at which it is navigable, and where all goods are landed for the
Company's stations up the country. Mr. Ebsworth the treasurer of the
Company resides there in a charming cottage, almost covered with roses
and honeysuckle, and commanding two picturesque reaches of the Karuah.
About two miles within the entrance, the river winds between high and
steep banks, densely covered with creepers, acacias, and other vegetation
of a tropical character, all quite matted together, and hanging in
festoons, the ends of which are immersed in the water.
Mr. White, who had charge of the Company's stock, met me at Boorral, with
horses, and we were not long in reaching Stroud, about seven miles higher
up on the eastern bank of the river. It is the head-quarters of the
Company, and has quite the appearance of a truly English village, each
cottage having its neat little garden. I was very much pleased with the
whole arrangement of the place, as I strolled through it in the evening,
and was delighted to find the inhabitants of a remote part of Australia,
retaining such vivid recollection of tastes so characteristic of
Englishmen. Several experiments had been tried in clearing the land in
the neighbourhood of Stroud, one of which was by what they call ringing
the trees; that is to say, they cut off a large circular band of bark,
which, destroying the trees, renders them easier to be felled. But the
danger of this practice was, that in stormy weather they were blown down,
thereby endangering the lives of persons or stock passing. In the
thickets near Stroud, great numbers of the Lyre Bird are found. They
receive their names from the shape of their tails, which one could hardly
suppose so small a bird, having no other beauty, could possess.
TRIP UP THE COUNTRY.
At Mr. White's hospitable cottage, I met two gentlemen on their way to
the Hunter river, and as fortunately the route I proposed taking, lay in
that direction, we started together early the next morning. Crossing the
Karuah, our road for some distance lay over a rugged country, along a
winding path between very steep hills. Six miles West-South-West from
Stroud, we passed through a range trending North-West from two to three
thousand feet high, the debris from which enrich the flats of the Karuah
on its eastern, and the Williams river on its western side. Our guide
amused me by pointing to some of the steep parts of the range which he
had galloped down, while hunting wild cattle, the most useful and
exciting sport known in Australia--useful, inasmuch as it prevents the
wild cattle from coming down to the plains and enticing away the tame
herds; and exciting, from the rough nature of the country, in which the
sport is pursued.
WILD CATTLE.
The wild cattle invariably keep on high ranges, and from their acuteness
of smell, are difficult to get at, and it is only to leeward that one can
approach them. The bulls being the leaders of the herds are always
singled out, and after a desperate and trying gallop over a rugged
country, the huntsman finds himself going stride for stride alongside one
of these Kings of the Forest, and wondering how an animal so ungainly in
his gait, can get over the country at such a pace. Jumping over fallen
trees, and dodging round others, he at last finds himself on a clear
spot, when drawing a pistol from his holster, and riding up so as almost
to touch the animal's side, he lodges a well directed ball just behind
the fore shoulder. This is the most critical moment. Great command of
your horse is required, for the bull, if not mortally wounded, turns
suddenly half mad with rage on his pursuer, and puts his nerves and
judgment to a severe test.
On these occasions almost incredible feats of horsemanship are performed;
and nearly precipitous slopes are descended. I have seen similar exploits
nowhere but in Chile, where horses are ridden down the sides of frightful
ravines on their haunches at half speed for bets; but in that country the
severity of the bit gives the rider a power over his steed unknown
elsewhere.
INCIVILITY OF A SETTLER.
We crossed the Williams river, about fifteen miles South-West from
Stroud, and after nearly another hour's ride came to a place called
Wallaroba. I was here doomed to experience the only instance of
incivility I ever found in Australia. It was late in the afternoon of a
cold blustering day, and having breakfasted early, we were prompted to
test the hospitality of a Mr. Chapman, whose station we were passing. It
was the only one we had seen during the day, and knowing the possibility
of our being mistaken for bush-rangers,* we turned back our rough coats,
and rode up to the house as smart as we could make ourselves. We met the
owner standing in the gateway of the garden fronting the house, which he
nearly filled; but although presenting a John Bull's exterior, there was
a great deficiency of the national character within. After introducing
ourselves we asked for a little milk, but were refused on the plea that
there was none at the station. Our surly informant added, that we should
find a comfortable inn eight miles farther on. First looking at the
number of fine milch cows that were grazing near, and then at the
speaker, we turned and left him in silent disgust.
(*Footnote. Escaped convicts, who live by plundering the settlers, taking
also their lives if any resistance is offered. I remember on one
occasion, a party of gentlemen had their horses taken from them: one of
them was of great value, and the owner thought he would try an experiment
to recover him, by saying in a jocular manner, that he would tie a card
with his address round the animal's neck, in order that when done with
they might know where to return him. Strange to say his experiment
succeeded, as the horse was sent back a short time afterwards.)
We passed the night at the inn to which we had been directed, and next
morning I separated from my companions, our roads being different. There
had been a hoar frost during the night, and the morning was delightfully
bracing. About ten miles in a North-West direction, brought me to the end
of my journey at Cam yr Allyn, the residence of Mr. Boydell. A few miles
from this place, I passed the house of a Mr. Townsend, the road close to
which was literally through a garden of roses, which in the freshness of
the morning, diffused a delicious fragrance.
Mr. Boydell's residence is on a rich spot of ground, on the banks of the
Allyn river, which runs among the spurs of a range of hills, trending
North-North-West, and distant about six miles to the eastward, where it
attains an elevation of three or four thousand feet.
SAGACITY OF THE HORSE.
The country in the neighbourhood is very hilly, and intersected by deep
narrow valleys or ravines. I was very much amused by the sagacity
displayed by the horses in crossing these. They make a point, as soon as
they get near the bottom on one side, of dashing down at a most
tremendous pace, in order to gain an impetus that shall carry them up the
opposite acclivity. The first time the animal I rode exhibited this
instance of forethought, I imagined he was about to run away with me; for
suddenly, without giving the least warning, he made a rush in a downward
direction and was across the valley before I could look round.
All the hills in this part of the country, showed singular sloping sides
to the South-West, whilst on the opposite, they were almost
perpendicular; old red sandstone is generally found on their sides, and
granite on their summit. On the Allyn, I noticed the same kind of rich
limestone, that I found on the west bank of the Karuah, two miles within
the entrance. These two spots are about thirty miles apart. The rocks in
the valley of the Karuah belong to the transition series, and on the
shore of Port Stephens, they consist of porphyry, basalt, and greenstone.
An instance here came under my own observation of the beneficial results
which sometimes arise from the punishment of transportation; knowing the
difficulty of getting good servants, I was curious to learn how Mr.
Boydell had procured his excellent butler, and on inquiry was surprised
to learn that he had been sent out for robbing Madame Vestris of her
jewels.
CULTIVATION OF TOBACCO.
Mr. Boydell was cultivating tobacco to some considerable extent, with the
hope of being able to supply the colony; others who speculated on a
larger scale were ruined; for it soon turned out that it was impossible
to compete in cheapness with American tobacco. This was in consequence of
the extensive establishment required on the estate--the large drying
sheds that had to be erected, the number of coopers necessary, and the
general high price of labour.
Mr. Boydell was also cultivating the vine, of which he made a light kind
of wine, a very excellent species of hock. The Messrs. McArthurs have
been at great expense in promoting this branch of cultivation, and are
entitled to their share of credit. But to Mr. Bushby the colony owes the
first introduction of the grape, which will hereafter prove of
inestimable benefit, from the great commerce to which it must give rise.
I may here mention that the same gentleman has deserved highly of his
fellow-colonists, by having been the means of bringing good water from
some distance into Sydney. The importance of this to the town was very
apparent even to us transient visitors, from the crowd of water carts we
constantly saw during the severe drought, patiently waiting their turn to
fill from the pump in Hyde Park.
I was fortunate enough to find two gentlemen to return with as
companions, from Cam yr Allyn, which we left early, under the guidance of
a native, mounted on one of Mr. Boydell's horses. We were to have made a
short cut by crossing the hilly country; but after going some distance we
found our guide at fault, and he very innocently acknowledged himself to
be, as he termed it, "murry stupid." It was a long time, he said, since
he had travelled that way. Having however provided myself with a sketch
of the country and a compass, I was enabled to conduct the party out of
this dilemma.
A CLEARING LEASE.
On reaching the banks of William river, we inquired our way at a cottage,
whose occupants, I found, held a small piece of land on what is called a
clearing lease--that is to say, they were allowed to retain possession of
it for so many years, for the labour of clearing the land. Many an
industrious poor man is raised to opulence by this means, a pair of oxen
being all that is necessary to set them going. With them they drag away
the fallen timber, and afterwards plough the land. It is astonishing to
see what work oxen will do; they drag drays over almost incredible
steeps, not quartering them as horses do, but going straight up, be the
hills ever so steep.
We learnt here that the township of Dungog, through which our road to
Stroud lay, was close by. We should readily know it, we were informed, by
the lock-up, a place of confinement for misbehavers, and generally the
first building in Australian towns. The particular erection alluded to,
seemed to be well known in the neighbourhood. As we crossed the William
river I was much struck with the richness of the flats on its banks.
CROSSING THE KARUAH.
In fording the Karuah, just before reaching Stroud, the effect was
singular and startling. The thick foliage arching over the river, quite
shut out the little light the stars afforded, and as we had to descend
into it, down a very steep bank, it was like plunging into a dark
bottomless pit; the noise of the stream over the stones alone told us we
should find a footing below. Into this gloomy cave our party one by one
descended, the foremost calling out when he had reached the bottom, that
the way was clear, and hastening across to prevent the horseman who
followed from being carried by the impetus into contact with him. Waiting
my turn upon the verge of the bank, I contemplated with pleasure the
heavy masses of the forest stretching like dark shadows behind me, and on
the other side, the long winding line of verdure at my feet, from beneath
which rose the splashing, rippling, gushing sound of the stream, whilst
overhead, the vault of heaven was thick inlaid with patterns of bright
gold. But the plunge of my companion's horse in the water, and his voice
calling out that all was right, soon drew me away, and in another moment
I was fording in utter darkness the rapid though shallow stream of the
Karuah.
We passed the night at Stroud, and next morning started for Port
Stephens. There having been some delay in getting my horse, I was obliged
to push over the first seven miles in little more than a quarter of an
hour, the postman having waited for me over his time.
PORT STEPHENS.
On the 15th, the requisite observations were obtained for rating the
chronometers, which we found had altered their rates in a most singular
manner; so much so, that in spite of the short interval that had elapsed
since our departure from Sydney, we found the resulting meridian distance
between that place and Port Stephens, to be very defective. This fact
illustrates the unaccountable changes that sometimes occur in the rates
of chronometers, and the necessity of repeated measures of difference of
longitude to arrive at the truth.
On the morning of the 16th we again sailed for the North coast with a
fine southerly wind.
June 19.
At noon, when in 30 fathoms, with coarse sand bottom, we saw Indian Head,
bearing North-North-West 10 miles, it is a dark cliffy point; but there
is another more remarkable in the shape of a quoin, three or four miles
to the northward. At 8 P.M., we were in the same depth, Sandy Cape, so
named by Cook for its being a low point streaked with patches of white
sand, bearing West-South-West eight miles. As it was now blowing very
hard from East-South-East, with constant squalls and thick rainy weather,
the ship was brought to the wind under snug sail, for the night.
June 20.
At daylight we were in 18 fathoms, the outer elbow of Breaksea Spit,
bearing South-East by South three miles.
LARGE SHARK.
It was when anchored under this Spit that in H.M.S. Britomart, a
monstrous shark was caught, about twenty feet long, in which were found
the bones of some very large animal, possibly those of a bullock, that
had been carried out to sea by some current. Steering North-North-West we
deepened the water in eight miles to 32 fathoms, and after rounding the
northern extremity of Breaksea Spit, which appeared to be formed of a few
detached breakers, steered West by North for Bustard Bay. In 28 fathoms,
with fine sand, we passed three miles south of Lady Elliott's Island, a
small level spot about seventy feet high, fringed with a coral reef,
particularly to the South-East, and forming the south eastern isle of
Bunker's Group. It was first seen at the distance of seven miles from the
Beagle's poop, the height of the eye being fifteen feet, and at that
number of miles east of it we had thirty fathoms. The weather was still
very hazy, but the wind had subsided to a light breeze from
East-North-East. After passing Breaksea Spit, a westerly current was felt
of nearly a knot an hour, which was also found to be the case in June,
1841.
June 21.
The morning was bright and sunny, a happy change after several days of
thick, rainy, and boisterous weather. The remarkable features in this
part of the coast, consisting of Round Hill,* Peaked Hill, and Mount
Larcom, stood out in bold relief against the pure blue of an Australian
sky.
(*Footnote. This hill was seen 35 miles from the Beagle's poop, and is a
good guide for Bustard Bay. Peaked Hill we found to be 2000 feet high,
and Mount Larcom 1800. They form admirable points for fixing the position
of the groups of isles fronting this part of
the coast.)
CORAL BANK.
In the evening steering North-West by West we passed over a coral bank
three miles wide, the least water on which was nine fathoms. From this
depth we procured a specimen of living coral. This bank was again crossed
in June, 1841, a mile and a half further to the South-West, when the
depth was only seven fathoms. It lies eight miles South-South-West from a
low islet, four miles from which in a West-South-West direction is a
coral patch, nearly dry. This islet, in latitude 23 degrees 34 minutes
South to which we gave the name of Mast Head, forms the south-western of
a group fronting Cape Capricorn. The latter has a hump on its extreme,
resembling a haycock, and by our observations* is in latitude 23 degrees
30 minutes 30 seconds South, which is two miles south of its position in
the chart. As we were detained by light winds in the neighbourhood, I had
more than one opportunity of detecting this error. By midnight we were
about 18 miles North by West from Cape Capricorn, when we felt a swell
from the eastward, which assured me there was an opening in the reefs on
the north side of the group of islets fronting the Cape.
(*Footnote. Hummock Island is alike in error with Cape Capricorn, but all
the distant points agree with the Beagle's observation.)
FLAT ISLAND.
June 22.
There was a light air from South-West till near noon, then one from
seaward which freshened and became in the afternoon steady at South-East,
a quarter it afterwards prevailed from. We were at the time passing about
three miles from Flat Island, in 27 fathoms, an increase in the soundings
we had but just got into. We were glad to find the ship's position, fixed
by points both far and near, agree with the observations, a fact I can
only account for here, from the circumstance, that Flinders laid down the
coast about Port Bowen by observations on shore, whereas that in the
neighbourhood of Cape Capricorn, was from those made with the sea-horizon
which he found differ very materially.
During the day we added to the chart the position of two peaks, 1900 feet
high, lying about 20 miles South-West by West from Cape Manifold, and
forming the northern end of a high rocky range. A current was also
noticed setting north a mile an hour. The entrance of Port Bowen bore
West-South-West 15 miles at midnight, when the depth was 30 fathoms.
NORTHUMBERLAND ISLES.
June 22.
From thence we steered to pass between Number 1 and Number 2 of the
Northumberland Isles, in order that we might lay down their outlines
correctly, and also determine the positions of some small islets lying on
the South-West side of Number 1. The most remarkable land in sight in the
morning was Mount Westall, named by Flinders after the talented artist
who accompanied him, and which forms the highest part of the eastern
shore of Shoalwater Bay. The soundings during the night were very
regular, only varying from 30 to 33 fathoms with a soft muddy bottom,
mixed occasionally with which the lead brought up small stones. The
summit of Number 1 of the Northumberland Isles forms a remarkable peak
720 feet high; a sandy bay on the west side promised good anchorage, and
on its south-east and northern sides were some high detached rocks. The
heights of the other parts of the group vary from two to six hundred
feet. The crests of the western isles are covered with pine trees, which
give them a curious jagged appearance. In the afternoon we passed in 34
fathoms four miles from the eastern side of the Percy Isles, which
enabled us to add their eastern extremity in the chart. The mainland
falling so much back soon after passing Port Bowen, we could form no idea
of its character, but certainly what we had seen did not leave a
favourable impression of its apparent fertility.
SANDALWOOD.
Captains Flinders and King, having given a description of the Percy
Isles, it will
not be necessary for me to say anything about them, further than that
they are composed of a trap-like compound with an aspect of serpentine,
and that either on them or the Northumberland Isles, sandalwood has been
found of late, and taken by a Tasmanian vessel to the China market. Just
before dark, the soundings decreased to 29 fathoms, Pine Peak of Percy
Group, bearing South-West 10 miles. Our course was now shaped for Cape
Gloucester, the extreme of the Cumberland Isles; and about this time we
felt the flood-tide setting South-West by West nearly a knot an hour, a
sure indication of there being openings in the barriers in that
direction. The great distance at which this part of it lies from the
islands will render its examination a difficult and hazardous
undertaking. The night was anything but favourable for sailing among
islands, being very hazy, with passing rain squalls. At midnight we
passed nearly two miles from the North-East side of k of the Cumberland
Group, in 27 fathoms, in which depth we continued till getting abreast of
Pentecost Island, the next evening, the 24th, when it increased to 35
fathoms, but still on the same kind of green sandy mud bottom. At 10 P.M.
we passed about seven miles from Cape Gloucester, which at that part was
nearly 1600 feet high. Yet the night was so hazy, that it was only
visible at intervals. Here we noticed many ripplings which we afterwards
found indicated a North-North-West current of a knot and a half an hour,
caused no doubt by the proximity of a part of the barrier, the distance
between it and Cape Gloucester being only 13 miles. I may here observe
that the barometer was very high with these fresh South-East winds and
hazy weather, and rather low during the light North-West winds we
experienced in the neighbourhood of Cape Capricorn.
CAPE UPSTART.
June 25.
At daylight the Beagle was a few miles east of Cape Upstart, in 17
fathoms, having passed two miles from the north side of Holborn Island,
in 28 fathoms. The above headland received its name from Captain Cook,
and peculiarly deserves it, appearing in fact from the lowness of the
land behind, actually to start up out of the water.
Chronometers being chiefly affected by changes of temperature, it was
necessary to ascertain the rates of those in the Beagle again before
reaching Port Essington, for a correct measurement of the difference of
meridians between that place and Port Stephens. The bay on the west side
of Cape Upstart had been recommended by Captain King for that purpose, as
he had considered it likely to be the mouth of an opening. This
conjecture the low land in the head of the bay, together with a singular
break in the distant hills seemed fully to justify. We accordingly
entered the bay and anchored half a mile within the North-East point.
This took us till the afternoon to reach, in consequence of our having a
light land breeze until 3 P.M. when it became steady from North-East,
drawing round to south, after sunset, and veering to South-West again in
the morning. This alternation of land and seabreezes continued during our
stay, for three or four successive days.
In the evening we landed and ascended the North-East extremity of the
Cape, from whence we saw at once that hopes of discovering any opening
were delusive, the low shores of the Bay could be traced all round,
except in the North-West corner, where a point shut out our view.
EXPLORATION OF A RIVER.
On sweeping the western shore with a spyglass, I discovered the mouth of
a river about a mile to the north of a hillock marked in Captain King's
chart. This river was made the object of an exploring party, and next day
Captain Wickham and Lieutenant Eden, went on that interesting service. It
has two entrances, both very shallow, and is of little importance, being
on a lee shore and fronted by a bar, which seems to break at all times of
the tide. However, as there is such very safe anchorage near, the
discovery may hereafter prove of some value. Captain Wickham found it
fresh ten miles from the entrance, but at that point it is nearly lost in
the sands, and so very shallow that the natives have a fishing weir
across it. The land, which appears to be much cut up with creeks, is very
flat on both sides, and is subject to inundations. This was evident from
the signs of drift, to the height of six feet, on the trees that grew
along the banks, themselves not more than a couple of yards above
high-water mark.
The exploring party saw a few natives, but they were too shy to
communicate. One was discovered on a long flat, crawling on his hands and
knees, to catch a glimpse of the strange intruders, and looking more like
a great insect than a man. In the distance up the river a good many
smokes appeared; but I doubt whether this may be considered as denoting a
densely populated country, as fires are kindled by the Australian
natives, both as signals and for the purposes of hunting.
GEOLOGICAL QUERIES.
Previous to my departure from England, I had the pleasure of hearing a
valuable paper by my friend Mr. Darwin, on the formation of coral
islands,* read at the Geological Society; my attention being thus
awakened to the subject, the interest of this important paper was to me
greatly enhanced by a series of queries, kindly furnished by Mr. Darwin,
and drawn up with a view to confirm or invalidate his views, his purpose
being to elicit truth from a combination of well attested facts, and by
inducing the research of others to further the objects of science.
Among these queries was the following: "Are there masses of coral or beds
of shells some yards above high water mark, on the coast fronting the
barrier reef?"
(*Footnote. See also the Hydrographer's Instructions supra.)
RAISED BEACHES.
Captain King, in answer to the above states, that some of the islands
within the reef have beaches of broken coral; and, as an instance, he
refers to Fitzroy island.
I will, myself, here adduce what may be deemed an important fact; and
which, if allowed its due weight, will go far to weaken the arguments
brought forward in favour of the subsidence of the North-East coast of
Australia. I found a flat nearly a quarter of a mile broad, in a quiet
sheltered cove, within the cape, thickly strewed with dead coral and
shells, forming, in fact, a perfect bed of them--a raised beach of twelve
feet above high-water mark. On the sandy beach fronting it, also a few
feet above high-water mark, was a concretion of sand and dead coral,
forming a mass about fifty yards long. Fronting this, for about the width
of one hundred and fifty feet, was a wall of coral with two feet water on
it; and immediately outside, five fathoms, with a fine sandy bottom,
slightly sloping off. The annexed woodcut will better explain what we
have here endeavoured to bring before the reader.
SECTION OF THE COAST.
This small coral-strewed flat where our observations were made, and the
results of which are as follows; latitude 19 degrees 42 3/4 minutes
South; longitude 15 degrees 36 1/2 minutes East of Port Essington, is
surrounded by an amphitheatre of hills. Had it been on the seaward side
of the Cape, I might have been readier to imagine that it could have been
thrown up by the sea in its ordinary action, or when suddenly disturbed
by an earthquake wave; but as the contrary is the case, it seemed
impossible to come to any other conclusion, than that an upheaval had
taken place. The whole of Cape Upstart is a granite mass, and its crests
are covered with boulders, some of which have rolled down and form rather
conspicuous objects on the shores and points of the bay.
PUMICE STONE.
Near the North-West extremity of the Cape just at high-water mark, I
noticed some pumice stones, small and not having the appearance of
belonging to a recent eruption, which seems to agree with the opinion
expressed by the Reverend W.G. Clarke in the Tasmanian Journal. He
considers, and I think justly, that its origin may be in the Solomon, New
Caledonia, or some other of the volcanic islands to the east of
Australia, from whence it drifted, as it has been found on all parts of
the coast, to the southern portion of which it has doubtless been carried
by the current. Captain Wickham did not remark any above the entrance of
the river he explored, on the western side of the bay, which bears out
the opinion I have above expressed. A curious fact, mentioned by Mr.
Clarke is, that one piece, perfectly water-worn, was found upon a high
mountain, full twenty-five miles inland from the mouth of Clarence River.
Was this carried thither by one of the natives, or does it indicate that
pumice drifted to this part of the continent at a time when, if ever, it
was on a level with the ocean? I further remarked in this place, many of
the land shells common to this and other parts of the coast.
There was great difficulty in attaining the loftiest point of the Cape,
which I found to be two thousand feet high. From thence our party
commanded a view of the whole of the bay, and discovered that we were,
strictly speaking, standing upon an island, a small creek winding round
the southern foot of the high land, and connecting the bays on the
eastern and western side of Cape Upstart.
The break in the hills seen by Captain King, and supposed to indicate an
opening, has been already alluded to. On reaching the summit I found that
this was merely a valley, containing the head of the plain which
stretched from the shores of the bay. On its southern side rose Mount
Abbott; but one of the most remarkable features on the coast is Mount
Elliott, lying about forty-five miles West and by North from our
position. It is a long level hill, with a peak at its northern extremity.
All those in the neighbourhood, as far as I could judge with the
spyglass, seemed to be of the same formation with Cape Upstart.
We found this a convenient stopping-place for vessels making the inner
passage, wood and water being easily procured. The latter is found in a
considerable reservoir fed by two streams from the high land of the Cape,
lying a mile within the mouth of the bay. From appearances, I should say
it would yield an abundant supply at any season of the year.
NATIVES SURPRISED.
There were a few natives loitering about on Cape Upstart when we arrived;
and I think we should have communicated with them had it not been for the
fright into which they were accidentally thrown. A boat's crew on landing
surprised a small party, which instantly dispersed in various directions.
A lad, however, instead of escaping with the rest, stowed himself away in
a crack between two boulders of granite. Every endeavour was made to get
him to come out of his hidingplace; biscuit was offered him, but he
snapped savagely with his teeth at the hand that held it. Finding all
attempts fruitless he was left; and no doubt, the account he gave his
comrades of us, while under the influence of fright, was sufficiently
terrible to take them all away from the neighbourhood. These natives used
nets similar to those I had seen on the North-West coast, and in their
make, resembling, in a remarkable manner, the ones employed by Europeans.
PLANTS AND ANIMALS.
In the valley, just within Cape Upstart, a few palms and a species of
cotton were growing; and in other places, the never-failing Eucalyptus,
of small growth. Certain bulbs* were also found, apparently of the same
species as those on the Percy Isles; several of which we removed and
presented to the Botanical Garden at Sydney, where we afterwards had the
gratification of seeing them in a flourishing state.
(*Footnote. Crinum angustifolium. They belong to the Narcissus, but are
in themselves a new order of plant.)
A few quails were shot of the same large kind as that found on all other
parts of the continent, also one or two pheasant cuckoos.* They did not
differ from those we killed on the North-West coast, although nearly five
degrees further south. A very large pigeon was also shot, resembling in
colour the common blue rock, but without a bronze mark. We had not seen
this species before; it was a very wary bird, and was found in the rocks.
(*Footnote. Centropus phasianellus. Gould.)
NEW KANGAROO.
But the greatest prize our sportsmen shot was a specimen of a small
female kangaroo, of a new kind.*
(*Footnote. Deposited in the British Museum, and figured as Petrogale
inanata, by Mr. Gould, who being misinformed, has described it as
inhabiting the north coast of Australia.)
It measured as follows, just after it was killed: Length of body from tip
of nose, 18 inches; length of tail from stump to tip, 19 inches; weight 8
1/2 pounds. Its colour was a slate or light grey on the back, and dirty
yellow or light brown on the belly; extreme half of tail black, with hair
gradually increasing in length, from the centre to the tip and
terminating in a tuft. On the back of the hind legs the hair is longer
than on any other part of the body. The nails on the hind feet were
short, covered with long hair, and did not project over the pulpy part of
the foot, which is well cushioned and rough, giving a firm hold to
projecting rocks. The head was small, and sharp towards the muzzle; the
ears were short and slightly rounded, the eyes black, and the forearms
very short. In this animal the pouch was very superficial. It inhabits
the most rugged summits, taking refuge in the clefts of the rocks.
June 30.
In the afternoon we left the anchorage we had been the first to occupy,
and standing out of the bay, were much struck by the rugged outline Cape
Upstart presents. The huge boulders scattered over the crest of the
hills, give it the appearance of a vast mass of ruins, the clear
atmosphere bringing it out in bold relief against the sky. We stood over
North-West for the opposite shore, and closing to within three miles of
the land changed our course and ran along the singular low point forming
the coastline to the North-West of Cape Upstart; and by 9 P.M. rounded
its northern extreme called Cape Bowling Green, at a distance of six
miles, in 17 fathoms, steering then to pass about four miles outside the
Palm Isles. During the whole night our soundings only varied from 17 to
19 fathoms.
MAGNETICAL ISLAND.
The weather was gloomy with passing showers of rain and a moderate
South-South-East breeze; but all was bright again by daylight (July 1st)
when Magnetical Island bore South 9 degrees West, and the south and
largest of the Palm Isles North 81 degrees West, which, corresponding
with the log, showed there had been no current during the night.
Magnetical Island was so named by Cook, because he fancied it affected
the Endeavour's compass in passing it. There is good anchorage on the
west side, where it is densely covered with trees, amidst which a few
straggling pines reared their lofty and angular-shaped heads, giving by
their variety a picturesque appearance to the scene.* We passed the Palm
Islands early in the forenoon. The largest we found to be 750 feet high,
with a remarkable white rock off its South-East extreme.
(*Footnote. See the view annexed.)
THE CORDILLERA.
Behind these isles we saw numerous blue streaks of smoke from the fires
of the natives, indicating the state of population on the slope of that
lofty range of hills, which may be called the Cordillera of Eastern
Australia, and which at this point, tower to a great height, overlooking
the coast.* We were abreast about noon of its most remarkable feature,
Mount Hinchinbrook, in latitude 18 degrees 22 minutes South, rising to
the height, according to our observations, of 3500 feet.
(*Footnote. The proximity of this high land to the coast, may account for
the gloomy weather of the previous night.)
Although a number of fires being once seen is not always a sign in
Australia of a densely populated part of the country, yet when they are
constantly visible, as in this part of the continent, it is fair to
infer, that the inhabitants are numerous, and the soil fertile. I might
further remark, that Captain King found the natives well disposed; and at
Goold Island, in this neighbourhood, they even came on board his vessel
uninvited, an evidence of friendship and confidence, rarely
characterizing a race of beings so wary as are generally the inhabitants
of Australia.
It is not a little singular that the altitude of Mount Hinchinbrook
should be identical with what Strzelecki considers the mean height of the
Cordillera, which he traced continually on foot, from 31 to 44 degrees
South latitude giving to the highest point, 6500 feet in latitude 36
degrees 20 minutes South, the name of Mount Kosciusko, for reasons most
admirably and feelingly expressed, and which we therefore, in justice to
his patriotic sentiments, give below in his own words.* It will thus be
seen that there is a northerly dip in the cordillera of 3000 feet in 18
degrees of latitude.
(*Footnote. "The particular configuration of this eminence struck me so
forcibly, by the similarity it bears to a tumulus elevated in Krakow,
over the tomb of the patriot Kosciusko, that although in a foreign
country, on foreign ground, but amongst a free people, who appreciate
freedom and its votaries, I could not refrain from giving it the name of
Mount Kosciusko.")
The great height of this range, and the extreme abruptness of its eastern
face, where no waters are thrown off, renders it more than probable that
on the western side there is land of great fertility. Whatever waters
originate on its summit and slopes, must flow towards the interior, and
there give rise to rivers emptying themselves into the Gulf of
Carpentaria, or by first forming lagoons, feed streams of some magnitude
even, during their overflow.
HALIFAX BAY.
It is the general opinion of every voyager who has sailed along the coast
of Halifax Bay, that it is the most interesting portion of the north-east
side of the continent; as, combining the several facts which we have
above given, we have every reason to believe that the discovery of
fertile and therefore valuable land, will one day reward the labours of
the explorer.
Nothing was seen by us of the San Antonio reef, laid down in the charts
as fronting the Palm Isles; but this was subsequently accounted for by
Captain Stanley, who found that it was sixteen miles north of its
supposed position, being in latitude 18 degrees 17 minutes South, and
twenty-four miles distant from the nearest land, Hillock Point.
This fact is the more satisfactory and important that, from its present
position, as laid down in the chart, being supposed to be near the Palm
Islands, it was apt to create an unpleasant state of anxiety in the mind
of those navigating these waters during thick weather or at night.
From noon we steered North-North-West, and at 6 P.M. Dunk Island bore
South-West eight miles distant; our soundings varying, during that
period, from thirteen to fifteen fathoms. During the day we had several
opportunities of satisfactorily testing the accuracy of Captain King's
chart. While passing Barnard's Group, soon after dark, we found a current
setting West-North-West nearly a mile an hour, a rate at which it kept
during the whole night, but in a North-North-West direction. During the
day we had a light breeze from South-South-East, which shifted to
West-South-West during the night. Numerous native fires were observed
burning on the shore during the first watch, at the foot of the Bellenden
Ker hills, remarkable mountains of considerable altitude.
FITZROY ISLAND.
July 2.
Soon after midnight we were abreast of Frankland Group, and at 7 A.M.
passed three miles to the eastward of Fitzroy Island, where our soundings
increased to seventeen fathoms, with a current running upwards of a mile
an hour to the North-West, an increased velocity, which may be accounted
for by the proximity of the reefs to a projection of the coast forming
Cape Grafton. I must not, however, pass an island which like Fitzroy,
carried in its name a pleasing association to many on board the Beagle,
without a word of notice, particularly as its features are in themselves
sufficiently remarkable, having a singular peaked summit 550 feet high,
near the north-east end. On the western side is a little cove where
Captain King found snug anchorage.
REEF NEAR LOW ISLES.
Passing midway between Green Island, which is about twenty feet high,
encircled with a coral reef, and Cape Grafton, we steered North-West 1/2
North for a shoal on which Her Majesty's Ship Imogene grounded; and at
noon, were exactly on the spot, in latitude 16 degrees 24 1/4 minutes
South by observations and bearings of the land, Low Isles being
West-North-West four miles. Here we found sixteen fathoms, not having had
less than seventeen since the morning. There was no appearance of any
such reef nearer than that laid down by Lieutenant Roe, bearing east from
the above-mentioned Low Isles and under which Her Majesty's Ship Tamar
anchored. It must therefore have been on the North-West part of this reef
that the Imogene struck, and the south part must be the reef laid down in
the chart as having been seen by her to the southward, which accounts for
our not seeing it from the Beagle. We passed through several patches of
discoloured water, caused by washings from reefs to windward, which are
very deceptive. At sunset the anchor was dropped in thirteen fathoms, for
the first time since leaving Port Stephens. The south point of Weary Bay
bore West-North-West three miles, and Cape Tribulation South by East six
miles. Near the middle of the former, I noticed a patch of discoloured
water, which has since been found by a merchant vessel to be a shoal.
HOPE ISLANDS.
The land over the latter place is very high, presenting several singular
peaks, one more prominent than the rest, in the shape of a finger. That
over Trinity Bay, which we were the greater part of the day crossing, is
also of great altitude. In its south corner we noticed the river-like
opening spoken of by Captain King, lying in the rear of some remarkable
peaks. We had been informed by him, that the greater part of the coast
between Weary Bay and Endeavour River, including the Hope Islands, had
been altered from his original survey, a tracing of which he had
furnished us with previous to leaving Sydney. The few bearings we
obtained while at anchor, induced us to consider it correct, a fact we
further proved during the early part of the next day's run, as the course
steered from our anchorage North by West 1/2 West, carried us a little
more than a mile west of the Hope Islands. Had their assigned position in
the chart been correct, our course would have led us right over the
western isle. On detecting this error, we found it necessary to re-survey
this part of the coast, and it affords me much pleasure, after so doing,
to be able to bear testimony to the extreme correctness of Captain King's
original chart above alluded to. Soon after passing the Hope Islands, we
saw the reef where Cook's vessel had so miraculous an escape, after
grinding on the rocks for 23 hours, as graphically described in his
voyages. It is called Endeavour Reef, from this circumstance.
CAPE BEDFORD.
Continuing on the same course, we passed three miles from Cape Bedford,
at 4 P.M. This is one of the most remarkable features on the coast, being
a bluff detached piece of tableland, surmounted by a singular low line of
cliffs, reminding me forcibly of the lava-capped hills on the river Santa
Cruz, in eastern Patagonia. As far as I could judge, by the aid of a good
glass, it seemed to be composed of a mixture of red sand and ironstone,
of a very deep red hue, bearing a great similarity to the country on the
North-West coast, in latitude 15 1/4 degrees South.
Leaving Cape Bedford, we went in search of a shoal laid down by H.M.S.
Victor, as lying two miles to the West-South-West of Three Isles. Both
Captain King and Lieutenant Roe had expressed a doubt of its existence in
the position marked, a doubt which our researches fully justified; and
therefore, as it at present stands, it should be expunged from the chart.
From thence we steered north for Lizard Island, the remarkable peak on
which soon rose in sight; this course took us within three miles of Cape
Flattery, where a couple of peaks, with a slope between them, render it a
conspicuous headland.
About seven miles west from thence, there is a strange alteration in the
appearance of the country, changing from moderately high conical-shaped
hills, to lofty table ranges about 500, or 600 feet in height, trending
about South-West and by West.
LIZARD ISLAND.
Having still a little moonlight, we were enabled to keep underweigh part
of the night, and during the first watch came to in 13 fathoms, in a bay
on the west side of Lizard Island, the extremes bearing from South 1/2
East to East-North-East. During the day we experienced a northerly
current, varying from three quarters to half an knot an hour.
July 3.
We remained at this anchorage, until the following morning, for the
purpose of determining the position of the island, and of visiting the
peak, which we found to be nearly twelve hundred feet high. I ascended by
a slope rising from the shore of the small bay where our observations
were taken, and which may be easily distinguished, from being the second
from the north point of the island. Their result was to place it in
latitude 14 degrees 40 3/4 minutes South longitude 13 degrees 17 3/4
minutes East of Port Essington. Variation by the mean of five or six
needles was 7 3/4 degrees East being half a degree more than it was at
Cape Upstart. Other magnetic observations were also made, consisting of
those for the dip and intensity.
In a valley to the left of the slope by which we ascended the peak, were
noticed several very remarkable, low and spreading trees, with a dark
green foliage, and leaves large, ovate, and obtuse. The branches, from
which, when broken, a milky juice exuded, were thick and glossy, of an
ash colour; at their extremity they were thin, with long pendulous stems,
supporting a bell-shaped flower, of a rich crimson hue; these hung in
great profusion, and contrasting with the surrounding dark green verdure,
presented a very beautiful and striking appearance. The diameter of the
trunk of the largest tree was 20 inches, and the height 25 feet.
Lieutenant Emery painted a most faithful representation of one of them,
by means of which we found on our arrival at Port Essington, that neither
the professional nor amateur botanists, had any knowledge of it. To them
and to ourselves it was alike perfectly new.
CAPTAIN COOK.
On the preceding evening I had refreshed my memory by reading Cook's
account of his visit to the same spot, and was thus able minutely to
follow in the footsteps of the immortal navigator. There is an
inexpressible charm in thus treading in the track of the mighty dead, and
my feelings on attaining the summit of the peak, where the foot of the
white man, had perhaps but once before rested, will easily be understood.
Below to the eastward stretched a vast expanse of water, broken at the
distance of about eight miles, by a long narrow line of detached reefs,
on which there ran a white crest of foaming breakers, marking the outer
edge of the Great Barrier, a name which few seamen could hear with
indifference when in its vicinity. If I felt emotions of delight, on
first perceiving the extent of a danger so justly dreaded, how much
stronger must have been the feelings of Captain Cook, when from the same
spot years before, he saw by a gap in the line of broken water, there was
a chance of his once more gaining the open sea, after being confined to
the eastern shores of the Australian continent, for a distance of 750
miles.
Though the dangers of this inner channel had proved so nearly fatal to
his ship, the truth of the homely adage, which describes all as happening
for the best, was here fully borne out, as the very fact of his position
enabled Captain Cook to make considerable discoveries along the
coast--just as by the mishap on Endeavour Reef, the presence of a river
was made apparent, and some slight knowledge of the aborigines obtained,
as well as numerous facts illustrative of the natural and vegetable
productions of the locality.
PROVIDENCE CHANNEL.
Little did he think at that time, however, when standing on the summit of
the peak, that he was about as it were to thread the eye of a needle, by
passing through another break, in a manner which can only be designated
as providential. This gap in the great reef is now known as Providence
Channel, a name which must ever remind us of Him, who in moments when our
lives hang as by a thread, is ever watchful, and spares us in the
exercise of his inscrutable will.
Carried back to times past, we stood upon the summit of the height,
dwelling in thought upon the adventurous career of the great navigator,
when suddenly, as if by magic, the whole scene below and around was
obscured, and we found ourselves wrapped in a dense cloud of vapour,
which came sweeping across the island, drenching us to the skin, with a
rapidity which spoke volumes for the penetrating character of an
Australian fog. Cold and shivering we hailed the temporary re-appearance
of the sun with delight, and our clothes were dried almost as speedily as
they had been wetted. Our satisfaction was however but of short duration,
as the same agreeable operation, of alternate drenching and drying,
occurred several times during our stay on the Peak.
BARRIER REEF.
The opening through which Captain Cook passed out to sea, bore about
North by East 9 miles, the outer line of the Barrier Reef, curving from
thence to the North-West, and following the trend of the land. When this
singular wall of coral, the most extensive perhaps in the world, is
surveyed, it will I think be found to follow the direction of the coast
it fronts with such exactness, as to leave little doubt that the vast
base on which rests the work of the reef-building Polypifers, was,
contrary to the opinion which I am aware prevails, upheaved at the same
time with the neighbouring coast of the Australian continent, which it
follows for a space of upwards of a hundred miles.
CORAL REEFS.
From the elevation on which I stood, I had an excellent view of some
reefs within the Barrier; whether they encircled an islet, or were wholly
beneath the water, their form was circular, although from the ship, and
indeed anywhere, viewed from a less height, they appeared oval-shaped.
This detection of my own previously erroneous impressions, seemed to
account for the recurrence in charts of elongated-shaped reefs, others
having doubtless fallen into the same error. It is very remarkable that
on the South-East or windward side of these coral reefs, the circle is of
a compact and perfect form, as if to resist the action of the waves,
while on the opposite side they were jagged and broken.*
(*Footnote. In the Pacific the islets are generally on the weather side
of the lagoon reefs.)
The South-West side of the peak rises perpendicularly from a grassy flat,
which stretches across that part of the island, separating two bays, the
beaches of which with the rest on the island are composed of granulated
quartz, and coarse shingle. A stream of water, rising in the peak, runs
through the green, while a few low gumtrees grow in small detached
clumps; a ship may therefore procure both water and fuel; finding this to
be the case, and as it was a convenient stopping place, we made a plan of
the island, connecting it with those in the immediate neighbourhood. It
is the more advantageous as an anchorage, in that it can be reached
during the night, whereas this could not be done in the inner channel
near Turtle Islands, it lying so much to the westward, and being more
intricate. Indeed it is not prudent to approach these isles even in the
afternoon, from the number of reefs, and the difficulty in seeing them
with the sun ahead.
Mr. Bynoe was not fortunate enough to add to his collection of birds;
those he observed being only doves and parrots, besides a flycatcher
common to parts of the coast, and often before met with by us.
A couple of vampires of the larger and darker species were also seen, and
numerous land shells (Helix) similar to those on Cape Upstart; found near
the roots of trees, buried in the decayed vegetation. Two old coconuts
and large quantities of pumicestone were picked up on the south-east side
of the island. The prevailing character of the rocks was granitic, out of
which some beautiful specimens of hornblende were procured. The entire
island was fringed with a narrow strip of coral, but I noticed none of it
above high-water mark.
HOWICK GROUP.
July 4.
We took our departure at an early hour, and after running round to sketch
the north-east side of the island, stood to the westward for Howick
Group. The weather being thick we did not discover the somewhat
remarkable peak on Number 1, until we were close to it. Our progress was
accelerated by a current running half a knot an hour, and finding the
passage between Number 1 and 2 of Howick Group, much impeded by rocks, we
hauled up between 2 and 3 isles, and on keeping away again
West-North-West for Point Barrow, found ourselves close to a reef, almost
dry, and extending nearly a mile further off the North-East side of Coles
Island, than is laid down in the chart; thus contracting the channel
between it and Number 4 island, to a space of not more than two miles.
When the course was shaped for Point Barrow, Noble Island, a very
remarkable pyramidal-shaped rocky height, was a point on the port bow.
Its singular appearance makes it conspicuous amid the recollections of
this part of the coast.
We now once more approached to within a distance of seven miles of the
mainland, which presented to our view a low sandy shore, with a few
remarkable hummocks rising over it, and somewhat high, broken, rocky land
immediately behind.
CAPE MELVILLE.
Passing Point Barrow we anchored near the north end of a large reef, Cape
Melville bearing West-North-West ten miles. Here we felt a swell rolling
in from seaward, and during the day there had been a current in our
favour, of about a mile an hour. From the haze on the horizon, noticed
from this anchorage, as well as on passing Cape Melville, I believe the
outer edge of the Barrier Reef to be not more than four or five leagues
distant from the land.
Our attention had been previously directed by Captain King and others, to
the singular appearance of the rocks on Cape Melville; indeed no one can
pass this remarkable projection without being struck by the strange
manner in which piles of reddish-coloured stones are scattered about in
the utmost confusion, and in every possible direction over this high
ridge. I much regretted that on passing next morning there was no
opportunity of landing to see the nature of this confused mass; judging,
however, from the result of my examination of a similar appearance
presented by Depuch Island on the north-west coast, I believe this point
to be of volcanic origin.
CAPE FLINDERS.
Between the rocks off Cape Melville, and a reef encircling two small
islets, the channel is not more than a mile in width: indeed, I consider
passing this point and Cape Flinders the most intricate part of the inner
route. After rounding the rocks off the former we steered for the latter
Cape, keeping it a little on the port bow; this course led us on reef a,
lying midway between the Cape and a low island to the North-East. When on
the southern extremity Cape Flinders bore South 70 degrees West 3 miles,
and Clack Island North 39 degrees West. The latter is a remarkable cliffy
lump, interesting from the circumstance of Mr. Cunningham having found
native drawings in its caves.
After clearing this danger, and passing the Cape, we steered across
Princess Charlotte Bay, keeping wide to the southward of the reefs
fronting it, in order that we might the more easily distinguish them; the
sun at that time of the day being in the direction of the ship's head.
The soundings gradually decreased with a soft muddy bottom, as we
approached the eastern shores of the bay; which is so large and free from
shoals, that a vessel not wishing to anchor might pass the night standing
off and on with perfect safety. There is over the head of this bay a
remarkable level-topped hill, called by Captain Cook, Janes' tableland;
rendered the more conspicuous from the low nature of the surrounding
country.
SECTION OF CORAL REEF.
In the evening we anchored a mile from the South-West side of a small
detached reef, marked F in the chart, and distant 22 miles from Cape
Flinders; the solitary position of this reef, it being four miles from
the inner edge of the Great Barrier, and nine from the nearest part of
the main, gave us a good opportunity of making a section, with a view of
illustrating the progressive structure of coral edifices, in the still
waters within the barrier reef; we accordingly visited the spot in the
evening, and being an interesting object, we give a drawing of the
section.
It proved a good specimen of the circular or lagoon reef. One young
mangrove was growing on the elevated part marked C in the woodcut. The
rim which rose on all sides was quite black, but white when broken; the
highest part being about three feet above the water. The nature of the
bottom within the reef was a white sand mixed with small pieces of dead
coral: without, we found on either side soft green sandy mud with shells,
the inclination of the bottom on which the reef rests, being only one
degree, we may fairly infer it to be superimposed on a most extensive
basis.
CLAREMONT ISLES.
July 7.
To-day being Sunday we did not proceed further than Number 4 of the
Claremont Isles, a low rocky group encircled by coral reefs, to give the
ship's company a run on shore during the afternoon; in order to remind
them of its being a day of rest appointed by the Lord. When we anchored,
we found, contrary to the usual north-westerly tendency of the current, a
tide setting South-South-West three quarters of a knot an hour, this
lasted for a space of four hours, when it changed, and ran
North-North-West from half to three quarters of a knot during the
remainder of our stay. The wind was moderate from East-South-East.
July 8.
We weighed at 6 A.M., and about the same hour in the evening again
anchored under Restoration Island. The ship's track during the day
followed the trend of the land, keeping about seven miles from it, except
when opposite Cape Direction, where we were about half that distance from
the shore. We found little to add to Captain King's chart, with the
exception of some reefs lying about ten miles east from the
above-mentioned headland.
CORDILLERA.
The coast here again attained a moderate height, and a round hill ten
miles south of Cape Direction, reached the height of 1250 feet; its
latitude being 13 degrees South is nearly five degrees and a half north
of where the Cordillera is 3500 feet high, and 23 1/2 degrees of where it
attains its greatest elevation, that of 6500 feet; a fact which will at
once demonstrate the northerly tendency in the dip of the chain of hills.
This degree is further illustrated by the height of Pudding-pan Hill in
11 degrees 19 minutes South being only 384 feet. From the data given,
despite the limited number of our facts, it will be seen that the dip
becomes gradually more rapid as you advance to the northward.
South-East from Cape Sidmouth the passage was much contracted by a
covered rock in the very centre of the channel; this may be avoided by
keeping close to the West side of island Number 6. Restoration is a lofty
rocky lump, terminating in a peak 360 feet high. A smaller islet of the
same character lies about half a mile off its South-East side; there is
also a remarkable peak on the shore, four miles to the southward. This
part of the coast is thus rendered very conspicuous from seaward, and may
be discerned outside the Barrier reefs. Restoration Island is a point of
some interest from having been first visited in 1789 by Captain Bligh,
during his extraordinary and unparalleled voyage in the Bounty launch,
from the Society Islands. The dangers and perils undergone by this
undaunted voyager, and our consciousness of the joy which the sight of
land must have brought to his heart, gave much zest to our feelings with
regard to the locality. There is always an interest in connection with
scenes associated with a name such as that of Bligh, but to us the
interest was double; it was the sympathy of seamen with a brother
sailor's misfortunes.
RESTORATION ISLAND.
As Captain King had not examined this interesting spot, we thought his
chart would be greatly improved by our passing a day in the place; this
was the more necessary as we found it to be a snug anchorage and
convenient place for ships passing. The name of Restoration Island was
given it by Bligh, from the circumstance of his having made it upon the
anniversary of the recall of Charles II. to the throne of England.
July 9.
The surveying operations necessary to perfect the chart of this
neighbourhood, afforded ample employment during the day. The weather
being dull, with passing rain, and squalls, the view I had anticipated
enjoying from the summit of the island was quite destroyed. Like Cape
Upstart and Lizard Island it is a granite mass. Dead coral was found on
the western side, ten feet above high-water mark, a fact which in some
measure supports what I have stated in connection with the raised beach
on Cape Upstart. A low sandy tongue of land forms the South-West extreme,
leaving a narrow passage between it and the main. This flat is covered
with brushwood, gumtrees, and a few palms. The observations were made on
this point, and the results were as follow: latitude 12 degrees 37
minutes 30 seconds South, longitude 11 degrees 16 3/4 minutes East of
Port Essington.
July 10.
The morning broke with the same dull, gloomy weather, the wind fresh at
South-East and continued thus during the day, slightly diversified by a
few passing rain squalls. Soon after daylight we were again on our
passage, the cloudy weather enabling us to make out the Eastern reefs,
which at high-water are covered, and consequently difficult to be seen in
that direction in the morning. They front Quoin and Forbes Islands,
remarkable rocky lumps, more so, however, from the extreme lowness of
those in their vicinity, than from their own magnitude. The latter was
found to be 340 feet high. A North-West by North course from Restoration
brought us to Piper Islands. The soundings were from 11 to 13 fathoms,
with a greater proportion of sand in the quality of the bottom than had
been before noticed.
SIR EVERARD HOME'S ISLANDS.
Passing between them and reefs H and I also between Young Island (an
elevated reef, with one small mangrove growing on the highest part) and
reef M, we hauled up North-East by North round the north end of the
latter, to weather Sir Everard Home's Islands, a low group connected by
shoal water and extending about four miles from Cape Grenville. We passed
midway between them and Haggerston's Islands, a square lump 240 feet
high.
COCKBURN ISLANDS.
Sir Charles Hardy's and the Cockburn Isles are also conspicuous objects
in this neighbourhood, particularly the former, which is visible from
outside the Barrier, and thus forms a leading mark for ships making their
way through these reefs.
In the evening the anchor was dropped about a mile from the north side of
the Bird Isles in ten fathoms, a sudden degree from fifteen, just before
standing in West-South-West to the anchorage. Five miles South-East by
East from these isles, we passed close to the position of a patch of
shoal water, according to the chart: its presence, however, was not
detected, the depth at the time being nineteen fathoms. The only
additions made to the chart during the day were a few soundings, besides
increasing the number and altering the position of Cockburn Islands, with
the reefs fronting them. The number of these isles is thus increased from
two to four; they are square rocky lumps, the largest being three hundred
feet high. The current during the day set steadily North-West almost a
mile an hour. On anchoring we found it setting West-North-West at the
same rate. At midnight it changed its direction to East-South-East from a
quarter to half a knot an hour. The time of high-water being about 6
A.M., it is evident the flood-stream came here from South or South-East.
The islands passed during the day, were of a small lagoon character and
the reefs oval-shaped, with an elevated patch of dead coral at their
north extreme, which had the appearance, at a distance, of sand. The
mainland had much changed in outline, having subsided into a wearisome
series of undulating hills, varying from five to seven hundred feet in
height. The coast was, therefore, utterly void of any feature of
interest, after passing Fair Cape.
July 11.
At daylight we were again underway and steered North by East for the
purpose of ascertaining if there were any reefs to the eastward of u and
v. When Number 1 of a group next south of Cairncross bore North 43
degrees West four and a half miles the course was changed to
West-North-West to pass between the reef fronting its south side and reef
w where we had a depth of 20 fathoms; both of these we found it necessary
to enlarge on the chart. At the time of altering the course, the ship was
West-North-West two miles from the position of an island according to
chart; but as we did not see it, and as Captain King has not laid it down
upon his own authority, we may safely conclude that it either does not
exist, or that it is much out of position.
BOYDAN ISLAND.
Rounding the reef off its south extremity, we anchored in 18 fathoms, one
mile South 65 degrees West from the centre of the island before
mentioned--Number 1 of the group South of Cairncross--shortly before
noon. This Captain King supposes to be Boydan, that on which the crew of
the Charles Eaton were massacred. It was therefore determined that the
remainder of the day should be spent in examining the place, with a view
to ascertain the correctness of this supposition. The melancholy interest
of the search was to me greatly enhanced, from having seen at Sydney
young D'Oyly, one of the survivors of this ill-fated party, and son of an
Indian officer returning from furlough. Being an infant, his helplessness
excited the sympathies of an Indian woman, who snatched him from the arms
of his murdered mother, and sheltered him within her own. Nor did her
kindness stop here, the never-failing maternal solicitude of the sex,
inducing her to protect and console the child.
EXAMINATION OF BOYDAN ISLAND.
We had just read Captain P.P. King's interesting pamphlet in relation to
this sad event, detailing with minuteness all the circumstances of the
tragedy, and with our minds so recently imbued with the horrors it
inspired, naturally advanced to the search with zeal and activity;
anxious, if possible, to place the locality of its occurrence beyond a
doubt. The isle was easily traversed, being of small extent, not more,
indeed, than a mile in circumference. We crossed it accordingly in every
direction, and discovered the remains of native fires, near which great
quantities of turtle bones, and some coconut shells were scattered about.
It was remarkable that wherever boughs were cut, an axe or some other
sharp instrument had been used. A topmast with the lower cap attached to
it, was found on the South-East side of the island, which we afterwards
discovered to be a portion of the brig William, wrecked on the outer
barrier three months before.
Captain King drew his conclusions relative to this island from the
circumstance of young Ireland's stating, that on their way to it in the
canoe, after leaving the raft, they first passed three islands on the
right northward, and one on the left southward.
CORRECT CHART.
From the bearings, however, and from our run on the following morning we
found it necessary to correct the chart, thus decreasing the number of
islands. We found that marked 5, to have no existence, and 6, far too
much to the westward, while 8 and 10 were placed to the eastward of their
true position. These errors occasionally occur where they are numerous,
much alike, and are passed quickly. The change in the number and position
of the islands is in some measure hostile to the views of Captain King,
and I am further inclined, from these corrections, to draw the conclusion
that Number 4 of the group is Boydan island, a name given by the Murray
islanders, to the spot rendered notorious by the cold-blooded massacre we
have already alluded to, and which will be described more in detail in
Captain Stanley's highly interesting narrative, further on in the present
work.
On examining the reef fronting the island, which is a more perfect
specimen of a lagoon than any we had yet seen, we found that the outer
edge consisted of a wall higher than any of the parts within, rising at
low-water, to an elevation of ten feet, while inside, pools or holes
existed, three or four feet deep, containing live coral, sponges,
sea-eggs, and trepang. Scattered about on different parts of the reef
were many Chama gigas, not, however, so large as those I had formerly
seen at Keeling or Cocos Islands, in the Indian Ocean, weighing 220
pounds.
Singular to say, at 3 P.M., I observed the latitude by a meridian
altitude of Venus, although a bright sunny day. The result agreed with
Captain King's chart, placing the centre of the island in latitude 11
degrees 28 minutes South.
TIDAL OBSERVATIONS.
We experienced more tide here than at any anchorage we had yet occupied
during the passage. From 1 to 5 P.M., it set half an knot an hour to the
southward, then changed to North-West by North, increasing its rate to
one knot by 10 o'clock, and decreasing it to a quarter of a knot by 2
A.M., when it again set to the South-South-West. The stream thus appears
to set nine hours North-West by North and three South-South-West. The
short duration of the latter, which is the ebb, is caused by the
northerly direction of the prevailing current. This also was the only
spot where our fishermen had any success; in a few hours several dozen of
a species of small red bream being caught.
Three or four ships passing together would find a secure berth about two
miles North-North-East of where the Beagle anchored, where the depth is
moderate, with good holding ground. It has great advantage in this
particular over Cairncross, where but one vessel could lie snug, and
still greater over Turtle Island, more exposed even than the former with
a strong tide, and where vessels ride very uneasily. Moreover the
supposed Boydan, or Number 1 isle, can be left a full hour before
daylight, there being nothing in the way to impede a ship's progress for
some miles. Those who are not desirous of passing the reefs off Wednesday
and Hammond Islands, late in the day, with the sun in an unfavourable
position, can find a convenient stopping place in Blackwood Bay under the
largest York isle, or under the Cape of that name.
CAIRNCROSS ISLAND.
July 12.
We left at an early hour, steering North-North-West 1/2 West for
Cairncross Island, which we passed at a distance of half a mile from the
eastern side in 16 fathoms. Its height is seventy-five feet to the tops
of the trees, which, according to Mr. Bynoe, who subsequently visited it
in the month of September, are dwarf gums. The tea-tree of the colonists
is also found here, in addition to some small bushes. This island is the
resort of a large bright cream-coloured pigeon (Carpophaga leucomela) the
ends of the wings being tipped with black, or very dark blue. Mr. Bynoe
found the island quite alive with them; flocks of about twenty or thirty
flying continually to and from the main. They not only resort but breed
there, as he found several old nests. As this bird was not met with in
the Beagle on the western coast, we may fairly conclude it only inhabits
the eastern and northern; the furthest south it was seen by the officers
of H.M.S. Britomart was latitude 20 degrees. In addition to these, Mr.
Bynoe saw the holes of some small burrowing animals, which are doubtless
rats. On a sandy spit, close to the bushes or scrub, he saw a native
encampment of a semicircular form, enclosing an area of about ten yards.
The occupants had but recently left it, as a fire was found burning, and
the impression of their feet still fresh in the sand. It appears that at
this season of the year, being the favourable monsoon for ships passing
through the Barrier reefs on their voyage to India, the islands to the
southward are much frequented by the natives of Murray and others of the
northern isles, waiting, like wreckers of old, the untoward loss of some
ill-fated ship, when their canoes appear as if by magic, hastening to the
doomed vessel; just as in the Pampas of South America, no sooner has the
sportsman brought down a deer than the air is filled with myriads of
vultures winging their way towards the carcass, though a few minutes
before not a feather was stirring. The long-sightedness of these Indians
resembles that of the carrion bird itself,* while their rapacity and
recklessness of blood is fully equal to that of the lower animal.
(*Footnote. As some of our readers may imagine that vultures and birds of
prey are attracted to the carcasses of animals by smell, I may state that
an experiment was tried with a condor in South America; being hoodwinked,
he passed unnoticed a large piece of beef, but as soon as the bandage was
removed, he rushed eagerly towards and devoured it.)
PUDDING-PAN HILL.
We left our readers at Cairncross Island, and now return to our narrative
by describing the neighbouring coast. The most remarkable feature on this
part of the mainland, generally speaking a dull monotonous level, is a
hill bearing over the extremity of the reef fronting the south side of
Cairncross, South 45 degrees West, to which Captain Bligh has given the
quaint name of Pudding-Pan Hill. It received this appellation from a
resemblance to an inverted pudding dish, commonly used by sailors, and is
354 feet high. The coast about ten miles to the northward projects a mile
and a half further eastward than is marked in the chart. This error did
not however appear to be so great south of Escape River, where the
character of the coast is low and cliffy, separated by small sandy bays;
instead of a continued line of cliffs as at present represented.
ESCAPE RIVER.
At noon we were in the parallel of the south point of Escape River, in
latitude 10 degrees 58 minutes South, observations and bearings both
agreeing. This river receives its name in record of one of those narrow
escapes to which surveying vessels are subject, Captain King having been
nearly wrecked in the Mermaid. Attempting to enter the river he found it
not to be navigable, a reef extending across its mouth, on which his
vessel struck very heavily.
CORRECT POSITION OF REEFS.
Avoiding Captain King's track, we passed to the eastward of reef x, being
thus afforded a better opportunity of determining its position than he
had. This we did by transit bearings with different points, which placed
it nearly two miles South by East of the spot assigned it on the charts.*
(*Footnote. On mentioning this afterwards to Captain P.P. King, he told
me his survey of that part of the coast had never given him satisfaction;
for there the monsoon blows fresh, and his small vessel was hurried past
without his being able to land in search of better data for the chart.
The reader must not, from these corrections (few, when we consider the
extent of the survey) be led to imagine that our object is to pick out
errors in the surveys of others; but from being in a larger and better
appointed vessel, our opportunities of examination were necessarily
greater than those afforded to Captain King, who was always most anxious
to detect errors in his own charts. Without dwelling on the fact that the
result of our examination afforded us the satisfaction of restoring parts
of the chart, before erroneously corrected, to his original construction,
we would venture to hope that, while desirous as much as possible to
perfect our knowledge of the coast, we were in no manner actuated by that
spirit of fault-finding, so pithily described by Liebeg, when he says
that it is "startling to reflect that all the time and energy of a
multitude of persons of genius, talent, and knowledge is expended in
endeavours to demonstrate each others' errors.")
This error we found to extend also to reefs y and z. X is one of the
oval-shaped reefs, with the singular white patch of dead coral on its
northern extremity which I have before spoken of. Z is similarly marked,
and dries at last quarter ebb, while the South-East part of y is never
covered, a few mangroves growing on it. When abreast of x, we saw from
deck the curious flat-topped hill on the largest York island, Mount
Adolphus, and when over the centre of reef z, it bore North 23 1/2
degrees West. We now steered to the westward between reefs, x and y, and
afterwards North-North-West for Mount Adolphus. Between the Brothers and
Albany Islands the depth was 10 fathoms; these are both black rocky
lumps, particularly the latter, the outer being a mere pointed rock.
Altogether they assume a sterile and dreary appearance, in excellent
keeping with the inhospitable character of the adjoining coast. Several
shoals and much shoal water were noticed in Newcastle Bay.
BLACKWOOD BAY.
At 4 P.M., we anchored in Blackwood Bay, in a depth of 10 fathoms. Point
Dicky bearing South half a mile, and Mount Adolphus North-East. In the
evening a plan was made of this very convenient stopping place for ships,
and all the angles taken to the North-West extremity of the group, place
them a mile and a half to the eastward of their position in the chart.
Observations were also obtained near Point Dicky, which we found to be in
latitude 10 degrees 38 3/4 minutes South and longitude 10 degrees 28
minutes East of Port Essington. The North-West extremity of the singular
flat-topped hill being 1 minute 05 seconds North, and 45 seconds East of
this spot. The first question interesting to ships is the supply of wood
and water; the latter we had no time to look for, but of the former there
was an abundance, though from the shore being fronted by extensive coral
flats, it is difficult to be attained.
The appearance of the island is similar to that of the Albany cluster, it
having the same rocky, bleak, and almost wild look; from which I conclude
they are of the same formation, which in general terms we may call
porphyritic. Parts of the island appeared to be intersected by a growth
of mangroves.
There appeared great irregularity in the tides at this anchorage, as if
there were a meeting of various streams. At 5 P.M. it was setting
South-West about an hour, and continued to run in that direction until 8
hours 30 minutes, gradually decreasing its rate. It then took a North and
by East direction with the same velocity, until half an hour after
midnight, when it again changed back to South-South-West, a course it
pursued during the remainder of our stay. By the rise of the water on the
shore it would appear that the flood came from the westward.
TORRES STRAIT.
On reaching York Island we considered ourselves within the Strait, which
took its name from the Spanish navigator Torres, who sailed in 1605,
second in command under Pedro Fernandes de Quiros, from Callao in Peru,
with the object of discovering the Tierra Austral, then supposed to be a
continent occupying a considerable portion of the southern hemisphere,
lying westward of America. Torres passed through this strait in 1606, but
despite the great importance of the discovery, its existence remained
unknown until 1762, from the jealousy of the Spanish monarchy, which kept
the reports of its navigators a secret from the world. At the time in
question, however, Manila fell into our hands, and in the archives of
that colony, a duplicate copy of Torres's letter to the king of Spain was
found by the hydrographer, Mr. Dalrymple. The passage was now made known,
and in tardy justice to the discoverer it received the appellation of
Torres Strait; a tribute to the reputation of man, the greatest perhaps
which could be bestowed, since no more sure road to immortality can be
pointed out, than giving a name to the great and imperishable works of
the Creator's hand. It was not however until 1770, that the world
received full confirmation of this great acquisition to our geographical
knowledge; the immortal Cook then passing through and settling the
question of its existence. This being the high road between our growing
Eastern and Australian possessions, the reader will at once see the
importance which must ever attach to the discovery, and will the more
readily comprehend our enlarging in some degree upon the circumstance.
July 13.
There had been noticed last evening a slight rippling outside the bay,
and on leaving this morning we found it to be a ridge about two cables
width, the least water on it being three fathoms. From the shoalest part,
Mount Adolphus bore North 56 degrees East, and Point Dicky South 26
degrees East. It appeared by the ripples continuing towards the
north-west of York Island, that this rocky ledge extended in that
direction. Vessels entering Blackwood Bay may always avoid this shoal, by
keeping close to Point Dicky, or by steering for Mount Adolphus, when it
bears North-East 1/2 North.
Being desirous to know if there were a practicable channel through
Endeavour Strait, by which the inconvenience before alluded to, of
passing the reef fronting Hammond's Island late in the
afternoon, might be avoided, we proceeded in that direction, passing
along the north-eastern extreme of the continent, and between the
Possession Islands we entered Endeavour Strait. This termination of the
shores of Australia, being level and of moderate elevation, presents
nothing remarkable, save a peak over Cape York and fronting the
Possession Isles.
COOK'S ISLAND.
It has an inhospitable appearance, being apparently similar in formation
with York Isles, and subsides rapidly to the South-West forming the south
side of Endeavour Strait, where it scarcely reaches an elevation of fifty
feet: contrasting forcibly with the high rocky land of the opposite side
of the Strait, formed by the largest of the Prince of Wales Islands; upon
which former navigators not having bestowed a name, we conferred that of
the immortal navigator. Not but that the Strait known by the name of his
ship, is quite sufficient to recall the mind of posterity to his perils
and dangers in these seas; but that we his humble followers in the great
cause of discovery might add our mite to the wreath of glory which must
ever encircle the name of Captain Cook.
On the North-East extremity of this island is a remarkable peak, in the
shape of a horn, called by him Horn Hill. Captain King having only passed
between the eastern of the Possession Isles, little was known of the
western shores. A few angles and bearings were accordingly taken, as we
passed between them to assist in remedying this deficiency.
ENDEAVOUR STRAIT.
There was no impediment to our passage through the Strait, until we got
abreast of Wallis Isles, Cape Cornwall bearing East by North 1/2 North;
when the water shoaled to four fathoms and a half. Finding by hauling up
on either tack, that we were on a ridge extending from the Cape, we ran
to the westward, until we could cross it, which we did in three and a
half fathoms, North Wallis Island bearing South-West five miles.
BOOBY ISLAND.
I saw at the time from the masthead, a blue streak of water to the
southward, still affording hopes of there being a deep outlet to
Endeavour Strait; but as the day was far advanced, with a fresh breeze
from East-South-East, it was not deemed prudent to get the ship entangled
in shoal water; therefore, after crossing the ridge extending off Cape
Cornwall we steered North-West 1/2 West for Booby Island, in regular
soundings of six and seven fathoms, and late in the afternoon anchored
nearly a mile from its western side, a flagstaff bearing South 65 degrees
East. This we found on landing had been erected in 1835 by Captain
Hobson,* of H.M.S. Rattlesnake, who at the same time placed in a large
box, made for the purpose, a book with printed forms, which every ship
passing filled up, with the addition of such remarks as were thought of
consequence. Over this box in large letters were painted the words Post
Office, a name by which Booby Island must be quite familiar to all who
have navigated these seas; ships being here in the habit of leaving
letters for transmission by any vessel proceeding in the required
directions. I noticed a similar practice prevailing among the whalers at
the Galapagos Islands in the Pacific. We are indebted for the book to the
public spiritedness of an Indian army officer. The beneficial results of
the plan were experienced by ourselves, as here we first heard of the
Port Essington expedition, having passed eight months previously; also of
the schooner Essington, that left Sydney in advance of the expedition for
that place, having succeeded in determining the fact of the non-existence
of the other young D'Oyly, one of the passengers of the ill-fated Charles
Eaton. This result of the enterprising merchant-man's researches, fully
bears out the fact mentioned by Captain King, on the authority of the
Darnley islanders, that he shared the fate of his parents, being devoured
by their savage captors. All the ships which have recorded their passage
in the book, appeared to have entered the Barrier between the latitude of
11 degrees 30 minutes and 12 degrees 10 minutes; generally about 11
degrees 50 minutes reaching Sir Charles Hardy's Island the same day. They
all spoke of a strong northerly current outside the reef, in some
instances of nearly three knots. The time occupied in making the passage
from Sydney by the outer route, varied from fourteen to twenty days, it
being certainly shorter than the inner, though attended with much greater
risks. One objection made against the latter is the necessity of
anchoring every evening, somewhat laborious work to the crews of merchant
ships; this might be obviated in some measure by using a light anchor,
which could be done with perfect safety in the still waters within the
reefs. We found two barques at anchor, which had arrived on the preceding
day. In accordance with a practice very generally observed, they were
giving themselves a short period of repose and relaxation after the
anxieties and danger of the outer passage; which, short as it is, has
doubtless sprinkled grey hairs over many a seaman's head.
(*Footnote. Afterwards Governor of New Zealand.)
ITS DESCRIPTION.
Although Booby Island is a mere rock, from the various associations
connected with it, being during one half of the year the constant resort
of Europeans, it becomes at once a place of interest, and imperatively
demands some notice at our hands. It is a quarter of a mile in diameter,
flat, and about thirty feet high, the summit being bare porphyry rock. A
valley intersects the north-west side of the island, in which a few
creepers, some brushwood, and two or three trees of tolerable size, with
a peculiar broad green leaf, bearing a great resemblance to that of the
wild almond of the West Indies, were seen, giving shelter to some pigeons
and quails, in which latter the island abounds, even more than in the
bird which gives its name to the locality. Still, however, from the white
colour of the top of the island, produced by the boobies, it is clearly
one of their temporary haunts; and indeed, subsequently, in the month of
September, their season of incubation, Mr. Bynoe saw them there in great
abundance. The contrary was the case with the quail, which, by that time,
had completely deserted the island. Turtle were once found on this isle,
but they are now never taken. A few of the stones mentioned by Captain
King are still to be seen on the summit.
REMARKS ON THE CORAL REEFS OF AUSTRALIA.
This being a point at which ships correct or test the going of their
chronometers, it was necessary to obtain observations for longitude. The
spot chosen for the purpose was the landing-place near the South-West
corner of the islet, and which we found to be 9 degrees 45 minutes East
of Port Essington.
Our opportunities of examination with regard to the inner edge of the
Great Barrier, and its contiguous islands and reefs, terminating at Booby
Island; it may not be deemed irrelevant to hazard a few remarks in
recapitulation. In the first place there was a very perceptible increase
in the elevation of the reefs and of those islands resting on similar
constructions, as we advanced to the northward. Cairncross Island, in
latitude 11 1/4 degrees South, composed of heaped up consolidated
fragments, attains an elevation of 17 feet; but its trees rise to a
height of 75 feet, whilst to the southward, in latitude 13 1/2 degrees
South the islands were partially flooded by a tide, rising only about six
feet. The reefs are all either circular or oval-shaped, with a rim rising
round them. The description of that fronting the isle we visited for
Boydan will illustrate their general character. Their northern ends are
the highest, and are almost invariably marked by a heap of dead coral and
shells, which as we have mentioned, in one or two instances, from its
white appearance has often been taken for sand.
The remarkable breaks in this singularly great extent of coral reefs,
known as the Barrier of Australia, being in direction varying from West
to West-North-West generally speaking North-West, leads me to believe
that the upheaval by which the base of this huge coral building was
formed, partakes of the general north-westerly direction, in which a
large portion of the eastern world apparently emerged from the water. A
glance at the map of that portion of the globe, will strengthen this
hypothesis, placing as it does this singular fact at once before the
reader's mind. Starting with the stupendous heights of the Himalaya
mountains, and proceeding thence to several groups of the Polynesian
islands, New Caledonia, and others, this remarkable similarity in the
trend of these portions of the earth is plainly distinguishable. It would
appear, therefore, from the general north-westerly tendency of these
upheavals, that the cavernous hollows beneath the crust of the earth,
within whose bosom originated these remarkable convulsions, have a strong
inclination in one direction, a circumstance in connection with the
earth's history of great and curious interest. With this general
statement of facts, which we note for the benefit of scientific men, and
in illustration of the singular changes which are taking place on the
surface of the globe, we return to our narrative, from which we have
wandered at some considerable length.
As the duration of our cruise on the north-west and most interesting
portions of the coast, depended in a great measure on the supply of
provisions to be obtained at Port Essington, we were naturally anxious to
satisfy ourselves upon the point, and accordingly spent but a few hours
at Booby Island, taking our departure at 8 P.M. on the day of our
arrival.
PROCEED TO PORT ESSINGTON.
Proceeding towards Port Essington, we experienced a constant current
setting between North-West and West, from half to three quarters of a
knot an hour, except when crossing the mouth of the Gulf of Carpentaria,
when from the indraught its direction was changed to West-South-West. The
winds were as Captain King has described them, veering from
South-South-East in the morning, to East in the evening, and blowing
fresh towards the middle of the day.
Beyond this nothing occurred worthy of remark, until the morning of the
17th, when soon after daylight we found ourselves steering rather within
a large patch of discoloured water, extending off Cape Croker, the
North-East extreme of the Coburg Peninsula, a low point with a slight
hummock on it; on the north side of this peninsula is situated Port
Essington, thirty miles to the westward of the Cape.
CAPE CROKER REEF.
The light-coloured water off the latter, we knew indicated the reef
discovered by the brig Tigris, belonging to the Indian navy, which in
company with the New South Wales colonial schooner, Isabella, was
returning from rescuing the survivors of the Charles Eaton, from the
natives of Murray Island. When half a mile from the North-East side, in
22 fathoms rocky bottom, Cape Croker, bearing South 29 degrees East six
miles; we steered out, keeping at the same distance round this patch of
light water in twenty and twenty-one fathoms, seven or eight miles from
the Cape, which bore when over what appeared the shoalest part, South 42
degrees East.
This conclusion I afterwards found, on meeting Captain Stanley, to be
correct, as that bearing led over the part of the reef he struck on in
H.M.S. Britomart. But being on the inner part he was distant only three
miles from Cape Croker, whilst the outer edge of the reef I believe to be
seven miles from it on the same bearing. In hauling up to the southward,
round the North-West extreme of the discoloured water, the soundings were
as follows, 17, 12, and 19 fathoms, with rocky bottom. The Cape bore when
in the least depth South 58 degrees East nine miles.
We were fortunate in having such good means of determining the longitude
of Cape Croker, by observation of a twilight star when in the meridian,
and others with the sun soon afterwards. These both agreeing, place the
Cape 27 1/4 miles east of Port Essington, instead of 20, as it is laid
down in the chart. This discovery is of vital importance to ships
proceeding to Port Essington; we were therefore glad of so good an
opportunity for rectifying the error.
PORT ESSINGTON.
Expectation was on tip-toe as we were fast approaching Port Essington,
feeling naturally anxious to see what progress had been made at the new
settlement, and to learn the fate of the expedition. There was, however,
nothing striking in the first appearance of the land, a low woody shore;
the most remarkable object being a sandy islet, with a tree in its
centre, about a mile east of Point Smith, the eastern point of Port
Essington: Vashon Head forming the western.
As we drew near, a boat came alongside belonging to H.M.S. Britomart.
From Mr. Pascoe we heard that the Alligator had just sailed for Sydney,
leaving the former to await her return at Port Essington. The people
forming the settlement had been very healthy, bearing out Dr. Wilson's
account of Raffles Bay; and had found the natives exceedingly well
disposed. For this advantage we are indebted to the excellent judgment
displayed by the unfortunate* Captain Barker, late Commandant of Raffles
Bay, he having during his stay in that place, treated them with kindness,
to which they were fairly entitled from men so far their superiors in
knowledge and power, and who were moreover intruders upon their soil. Had
this noble conduct of Captain Barker been more universally accepted as an
example, the results would, we doubt not, have been equally satisfactory
elsewhere.
(*Footnote. This expression may to some of our readers require
explanation, and we therefore quote a brief extract from Dr. Wilson's
voyage round the world, page 284. "In obedience to orders from the
Colonial Government, he was examining the coast in the vicinity of
Encounter Bay, principally with the view of ascertaining whether any
available communication existed between the river Murray (lately
discovered by Captain Sturt) and the Sea. While in the execution of this
duty, he was barbarously murdered by the natives, and his body thrown
into the sea." In Sturt's two Expeditions volume 2 page 239, a detailed
narrative of this tragedy is given.)
WRECK OF THE ORONTES.
We also heard with much regret,* of the wreck of the Orontes, which
accompanied the expedition from Sydney. She left the settlement, with the
intention of proceeding to some port in the East Indies; and when just
clearing the harbour struck on a reef, knocking a hole in her bows. She
filled so rapidly that they had barely time to reach the shore under
Vashon Head, ere she sank. The reef, which now bears her name, is
according to Mr. Tyers' plan, received from Mr. Pascoe, a mile in extent
east and west, and half a mile north and south; while the nearest part of
it is distant from Vashon Head and Point Smith very nearly five miles.
From its extremes the following are the bearings; from the western,
Vashon Head South 49 degrees West, Point Smith South 55 degrees East: and
from the eastern the same points bear South 60 degrees West and South 48
degrees East.
(*Footnote. The loss of a ship is always looked upon as a most untoward
event, on the occasion of a new settlement being formed, and is ever
forcibly imprinted upon the memory of all ship-masters. This was felt to
a most serious extent at Swan River; and many masters of vessels in
speaking of Port Essington, have at once expressed their fear of
proceeding thither, deterred by the loss of the Orontes.)
ORONTES REEF.
The least depth on the Orontes reef is about a fathom, but the generally
discoloured state of the water, renders it impossible to determine its
exact position, and thus greatly increases the injury done by its
presence to the mouth of the harbour. The same difficulty prevents the
end of the reef fronting Point Smith from being made out. After rounding
the latter, we hauled to the wind, South-West by South up Port Essington.