_Of the chapter held in the Filipinas Islands, and as will be told
later, of the first election of our father Fray Diego de Alvarez._
[123]
The year 1584 came, at which time father Fray Andrés de Aguirre
had finished his term as provincial, as aforesaid; and the time had
come to give the province, according to the orders and rulings of our
regulations, a new head, who should take charge of the affairs of the
province, both in spiritual and temporal matters, with new strength,
and new energy and resolution. I do not deceive myself in comparing
the action of the chapter to that of retiling; for they act as one
who, when he perceives that his house is leaking, tries to remedy
that by putting on new tiles, which oppose the rain and wind with
new vigor and thoroughness, and keep the house free from leaks,
which at the last would utterly ruin it. In the same manner, the
superiors of the order, after the completion of their three years of
service in the office, would beyond any doubt be tired and liable to
yield more easily to any dispensation in the rigor of the observance,
so that gradually the edifice would be undermined--as the Holy Ghost
tells us, _qui spernit modica, paulatim decidet_. [124] Therefore in
order to avoid such troubles, which are so full of peril to the order,
our rules provide that new superiors be elected, who may carry out
the rigor of our laws with new resolution, new zeal, and new force,
and who should restore and suspend whatever time and opportunity
has relaxed somewhat, taking away the opportunity for evil custom
and abuses. Thus, desirous in this chapter of advance throughout the
province, the capitular fathers set their eves on father Fray Diego
de Alvarez, a man of learning and judgment, and of blameless life. Of
such a man did the province have need, so that with the quiet that it
had already negotiated at the cost of the anxiety, care, and diligence
of father Fray Andrés de Aguirre, the new provincial might continue
what his predecessor had so happily commenced. Thus, then, the whole
chapter having turned their attention to the good of the province,
many things were settled in it; and the province began to spread,
and new priorates were assigned from the visitas of the order (which
were numerous and very widely scattered), so that by this means the
Indians could be better instructed and greater care taken of them. The
experience has shown us that they are a race with whom one cannot be
neglectful; and if it were possible to assign one religious to each
Indian, so that the latter might not lose sight of him, even this,
I believe would be insufficient. For scarcely has one left them
for any short space of time, when they return to their natural way
of life--just like the bow which, when strung, is bent; but, when
unstrung, at once straightens and regains its former position.
In this chapter religious were established in the village of Bantay,
of the province of Ilocos, near the town of Fernandina, which now
exists only in name. [125] It is fifty leguas from Manila. It has
now an excellent wooden house and church. It belongs to the bishopric
of Cagayán, and the bishop of that province usually lives there. It
has two resident religious, and has more than one thousand Indians
in charge. The chapter placed a religious in the village of Purao,
[126] the first village in the province of Ilocos after leaving the
province of Pangasinán. This village belongs to the bishopric of
Cagayán, and is a district of about one thousand Indians, although it
is unhealthful. Two religious live there usually. It is fifty-four
leguas from Manila. One can go to the province of Ilocos either by
sea or by land, although the highway is very dangerous. One always
goes with an escort of armed Indians, for many Zambales wander through
those mountains, whence they descend to hunt heads. When there is no
resistance offered by arquebuses, of which they are in deadly fear,
they obtain heads very easily.
This chapter established religious in Vigan, or the village of
Fernandina, near Bantay. There lives the bishop, to whom this
town has been given for his dwelling, and so that he may place
there what seculars he wishes. It is the best town in Ilocos,
although it has suffered its setbacks from fires, which have caused
much damage. The residence of the alcalde-mayor of this province is
here. This province is better than all the others, because the Ilocans
lead all the other Indians in being clean and heat, and in having
large settlements. However, that is due to the earlier religious,
who settled them in villages, and the people have remained settled
so thoroughly. Had the like been done in the other provinces, the
religious would not suffer so greatly. This province has thirteen
priorates in all, only four of which, or rather five, have a
vote. [127] The Indians are all Christians, and are the humblest and
most tractable known. The entire province lies along the coast, and has
fine rivers, which descend from the mountains. When the north winds
blow, the province is considered very unhealthful. It produces rice
in abundance, and all the native fruits, besides some of Castilla,
such as oranges, grapes, figs, etc. The houses are all built of
wood, and therefore liable to many fires, so that scarcely a year
passes when some convent does not burn. Now they have begun to roof
the houses with stone, that is, tile. This was begun by father Fray
Francisco de Mercado, [128] who has often been prior of Ilaoag--which
has more than one thousand five hundred Indians--and at other times
vicar-provincial of the same province. [129]
This province is considered to have a great advantage over the others;
for when the Chinese arrive late, and cannot anchor or go to Manila,
they enter some port or river of Ilocos. On that account this province
is well supplied with necessaries, at very reasonable prices. Traders
are wont to go there from Manila in order to buy, and then take their
purchases to Manila with the north wind or brisa. Ships from Macau
and India are accustomed also to anchor in these ports, this depending
upon what time they come and all this is of advantage to this district.
A great quantity of gold has been, and is, obtained from the province;
not that the province yields it, but the Igorrotes bring it down
from the mountains. They are light-complexioned Indians, but more
unconquerable than what we have said of Zambales and Negrillos. When
peaceful they bring down gold, which they extract there from their
mines; and they exchange it for cattle, which those along the coast
own. They trade also for abnormally large and completely white
swine--never have I seen them of such size in España. They also take
away blankets, which the people in Ilocos make of excellent quality,
from cotton, which is produced in abundance. But when the Igorrotes
are hostile, the same is suffered as at Pampanga, and even more. For
then those mountaineers come down to hunt heads, in which they take
great pride. This is a remarkable inclination of all these Indians,
for they are all bloodthirsty. Ours labored much in this province,
as will be seen.
The father provincial established religious for the second time in
the districts near Passi in Bisayas. We have said enough of this in
its place, and I refer to that.
Likewise the fathers of the definitorio established resident fathers
in Malate. This is only one short half-legua from Manila, and consists
of but one street, along which are three parish churches. The first is
Santiago [130] and is built of stone. It is excellent, and was ordered
to be built by Don Juan de Silva, governor of these islands. All the
Spaniards who live outside the city of Manila--who, I believe, number
more than those who live within--attend this church. These Spaniards
are all poor folk, and married to native, mestiza, or negro women. Many
are sailors; and some are in the islands only temporarily, engaged in
their petty trading, and because they can live more comfortably in
this country, and there is less heat, as it is open and free. This
suburb contains some stone houses, and some summer gardens. Farther
on is Ermita, which ministers to Tagál Indians, who number about four
hundred. [131] It has a stone church and the house of the beneficed
priest. It belonged to us first; but some time ago it was given to
the bishops of Manila, in order that they might have a house outside
the city, where they might refresh and recreate themselves. [132]
It is called Nuestra Señora de Guia. It has an image to which great
devotion is paid. When the ships from Castilla fail to come, and are
delayed, then they take out the image and carry it to the cathedral,
and a novena is performed in order that the Virgin may bring these
ships. Thus many times the ships have arrived at that time. At other
times it has happened that, after the novena, they have no news of
the vessels and they wish to return the Virgin, but the weather has
been such that it was impossible; but at that time news of the vessels
would arrive, which is the most joyful news for all the islands. For
if the vessels fail to come, in even one year, all are left without
help or shelter. [133]
Further on in the same street is this convent of ours at Malate. It
has a stone church and house, sufficient for one religious, who lives
there and has in charge two hundred Indians. [134] The image, "Nuestra
Señora de los Remedios," has been highly reverenced. All the Indians
of these towns are traders, and their chief source of wealth is in the
voyages to Cavite. For there, at any time, they find a boat all ready,
which takes them to Cavite in a very short time. Very rarely is any of
these boats ever lost; for the Indians understand them perfectly, and
are wont to venture on the sea even with the waves running sky-high.
Religious were established in Tanauan, situated in the lake of
Taal. It was a very fine town, rich and densely populated, but now
it is thoroughly impoverished. It has a wooden house and church,
and Ours minister to about seven hundred Indians. [135] The people
are Tagáls. As one goes thither from Manila, he descends a truly
frightful hill for more than one legua. The convent lies on the
lake shore, and on the brow of the same land or slope. Tanauan lies
eleven or twelve leguas from Manila, and belongs to the latter's
bishopric. In it is Comintan, where many cotton hose are made. The
inhabitants are healthier and more clever than the others. Champans
(which are Sangley boats) enter this lake through the Taal River, by
which the lake empties into the sea; for the Chinese go everywhere,
and there is no islet, however devoid of profit it be, where they do
not go. If they can obtain nothing else at any islet they get wood;
and if that is lacking, yet they find on the coast material from
which they make lime. This they take to Manila, and it is not the
least expensive thing.
A convent and religious were established in Lipa, which is located on
this lake, four leguas from the convent of Tanauan, of which I have
just spoken. This convent has at present about four hundred Indians. It
has one religious, and the place formerly was densely populated. But
already I have mentioned how this lake region has retrograded. Many
Indians have been taken thence to Cavite, and but very few return;
for they remain in that neighborhood, fleeing from work. There are
a very fine new house and church there, which are built of wood and
better than those of Tanauan.
Religious were established in San Pablo in the mountains, [136]
which is fourteen leguas from Manila by way of Laguna de Bay--ten to
the Bay, and four to this convent. It was nothing until father Fray
Hernando Cabrera [137]--of the province of Andalucía, and a son of the
house at Cordova--went there, who was prior in that convent for many
years. Although neither its house nor its churches of stone, yet they
are of wood, and the best and finest in the province--particularly the
church, with its reredoses and paintings of the saints of the order,
so handsomely made that there is nothing finer in the islands. It
is feared, and with good reason, that since it is built of wood,
it will last but a short time, and that all that expense and beauty
will be wasted. The Indians were settled as if they were Spaniards,
and their village was laid out with its squares and so excellent
houses that it was good only to behold it. But as soon as the father
left there, all that order vanished; for all which does not tend
to keep the Indians in their fields and in the mountains makes them
dissatisfied. The father established so good a stock farm that the
Manila convent had to go there, and obtain from it five hundred head
of cattle; these were placed on the old stock farm, which no longer
had any cattle. He adorned the sacristy of the said village with so
much silver that no cathedral in España had an equal amount, for it
had abundance of every kind. As soon as this religious left there,
the convent of Manila took a notable ornament from it, which cost
it more than eight hundred granos. With this the house at Manila is
adorned during the most solemn feasts, both within and without the
house. The father did many things in other places, until his death
at sea, during a voyage to España in 1629. The province will always
mourn the death of this religious, for, besides his having done most
to increase it, he was the best Tagál interpreter. This, together
with his exceeding great renown in secular affairs, and his not less
observance in matters affecting his order, was a quality that would
make him esteemed in any community. He left this province to go to
take shelter in España. There was no provincial who would restrain
him; for of these religious there are some who had to be restrained,
since out of many crews not many men excel. He died at sea; and
it was well understood that God did not choose to leave him here,
but without doubt would take him to give him the reward of his many
labors and of his devotion. This convent has more than one thousand
Indians, and three religious--a very small number. Sometimes there
are two religious, the number depending upon the poverty or ease of
the time. A quantity of fruit grows in this place. The water is bad,
and therefore the religious are looking for better. Cattle draw the
fruit from here to Bay, where small Sangley and Japanese champans
are found. These buy the fruit to resell it in Manila; for all the
fruit and buyo used in the city of Manila comes from this Laguna,
as I believe I have already mentioned. Amid these heights are many
fresh-water lakes, and others of salt water, one-half legua in circuit
or more. Others are less but so deep that bottom cannot be found. They
are secrets of the Author of nature.