81. Constantinople.[9]

ARRIVAL BY SEA. The French, German, and Rumanian (RR. 76, 82) steamers

are berthed at the Galata Quay (Pl. H, I, 4), near the Dogana or

Douane. Passengers of the French and German steamers have to pay

pier-dues (1st class 5½, 2nd cl. 3½ s. pias). The Austrian, Italian,

and Egyptian steamers also, on their arrival from the Black Sea, are

mostly moored at the quay, but when coming from the S. they usually

anchor in front of it, at the entrance of the Golden Horn (landing or

embarkation, with baggage, 2 fr. or 10 pias.). The porters (hamáls,

mostly Kurds) of the Harbour Co. receive 5 pias. and a gratuity of 1

pias. for conveying baggage from the quay to the hotels. All trouble

with boatmen and porters is avoided by applying at once to the guides

(dragomans) or hotel-agents.

[Illustration: CONSTANTINOPLE]

Footnote 9:

In the following description the transcripts ö and ü have

approximately the German value, or the French of eu and u

respectively.

=Money.= The _Turkish Pound_ (_lira_), worth about 23 fr. or 18_s._

5_d._, is divided into 100 piastres. There are gold coins of ¼, ½,

1, 2½, and 5 pounds. The commonest coins are _Silver Piastres_ (s.

pias.; coins of 5, 10, and 20 s. pias.), but at the government,

railway, and steamboat offices, in the tobacco-shops, and on the

tramways they suffer a slight loss (5 s. pias. = 4¾, 10 s. pias. =

9½, 20 s. pias. = 19 piastres in gold). The piastre (worth 2⅒_d._)

is called _Gurúsh_ in Turkish (_grosi_ in Greek), the five-piastre

piece is a _Cheïrek_ (or simply ‘franc’), the twenty-piastre piece

(about 3_s._ 6_d._) is a _Mejidieh_. A piastre is divided into 40

parts called _Paras_; the commonest para-coins are the thinly

silvered bronze _Metalliks_ of 10 paras (about ½_d._); there are

others of 5, 20, 50, and 100 paras. New nickel coins of 1 pias., 20,

10, and 5 paras will in 1912 be brought into circulation.

A French or Greek silver franc passes in ordinary traffic for 4½ s.

pias., and the Napoleon (the most popular of foreign coins) for 95

s. pias. (but the money-changers usually give 93 s. pias. only). The

average exchange for an English sovereign is 120 s. pias.; for bank

and circular notes the exchange is rather higher. French banknotes

can be exchanged only at the banks. Small change, of which there is

always a scarcity, is obtained at the banks (p. 539) or at the

money-changers, the current rate of exchange being ascertained

beforehand. Worn-out coins may be exchanged at the Banque Ottomane.

Accounts are still kept in the provinces in ‘bad (_chürük_)

piastres’; of these there are silver coins worth 1¼, 2½, and 5

pias., and copper coins of 1¼ and 2½ pias.—The Turkish pound

contains 178 bad piastres, the mejidieh 33, and the silver piastre

1⅔. A pound sterling is therefore worth about 209 bad piastres, a

shilling about 10½, and a franc 8⅓.

=Turkish Numbers=: 1, bir; 2, ikí; 3, ütsh; 4, dört; 5, besh; 6,

altí; 7, yedí; 8, sekíz; 9, dokuz; 10, on; 11, on bir; 20, yirmí;

25, yirmí besh; 30, otuz; 40, kirk; 50, elí; 100, yüz; 1000, bin.

‘Katsh pará’, how many paras? ‘Besh gurúsh’, five piastres.

Baggage and passports (p. xvii) are examined in the ‘Salon’ or Bureau

des Passeports. The importation of weapons and ammunition and of

tobacco and cigarettes is prohibited. Cigars, however, if declared,

are admitted at an ad valorem duty of 75 per cent. On showing their

passports passengers must state where they intend to reside; the

passports are then stamped and returned to them. On leaving the

country passports are again examined (_visés_ by consul, p. 539); so

also is luggage, to prevent exportation of antiquities.

On leaving the Salon each passenger has to pay the Harbour Co. 5 pias.

in gold, also 1 pias. for each trunk and ½ pias. for each piece of

hand-luggage.

The =Station= (Pl. H, 5; Buffet, on the side for departure; Rail.

Restaurant opposite) of the Oriental Railway is at Stambul, 7 min. to

the S.E. of the New Bridge (p. 545).—The clock, which gives E.

European time, is an hour in advance of mid-European time. As the

officials understand French, the services of the hotel-agents may be

dispensed with.—Small articles of luggage are examined at the

frontier-station Mustapha Pasha, registered luggage in the hall of

arrival, and passports at the exit.—_Porter_ to hotel 11 pias.—_Cab_

from station to hotel 20–25 pias., incl. bridge-toll of 2½ pias. (from

quay to hotel 10 pias.; tariff, see p. 538).

=Hotels= (all at Pera; charges should be agreed upon beforehand). PERA

PALACE HOTEL (Pl. a; H, 3), near the public gardens of the Petits

Champs (p. 544), R. 10 fr. 10 c.–20 fr., B. 2 fr. 10, déj. 5 fr. 25,

D. 6 fr. 30, pens. 20 fr. 60–30 fr. 60 c. (charges 3–4 fr. lower from

15th June to 1st Sept.); HÔT. TOKATLIAN, Grande Rue de Péra 180,

recently rebuilt, with restaurant and café (see below), R. from 6½, B,

1½, déj. 4½, D. 5½, pens. from 15 fr., well spoken of.—HÔT. BRISTOL,

opposite the Petits Champs (Pl. H, 2), R. from 5, B. 1½, déj. 4, D. 5,

pens. from 14 fr. (with dépendance GR.-HÔT. MISSIRI, Grande Rue de

Péra 128, plain); HÔT. DE LONDRES (Pl. b; H, 2), also opposite Petits

Champs, R. from 5, B. 1½, déj. 4, D. 5, pens. from 12½ fr.; HÔT.

BERLINER HOF (Royal & d’Angleterre; Pl. c, H, 2), near the garden of

the British Embassy, R. from 6, B. 1½, déj. 4, D. 5, pens. 15 (out of

season, 12) fr.; HÔT. CONTINENTAL, opposite the Petits Champs (Pl. H,

3), R. 4–10, B. 1½, déj. 4, D. 5, pens. 12–20 fr.; HÔT. KRŒCKER (Pl.

e; H, 3), Rue Kabristan 36–40, with garden, R. 4–10, B. 1, déj. 2½, D.

3½, pens. 9–16 fr.

_Second Class_: KHEDIVIAL PALACE HOTEL (Pl. f; H, 3), Grande Rue de

Péra, R. 4–6, pens. 10–12 fr.; HÔT. GRANDE BRETAGNE, Rue Vénédik, R.

2–5, B. 1, déj. 2½, D. 3, pens. 6–10 fr.; HÔT. ST. PÉTERSBOURG,

opposite the Petits Champs (Pl. H, 2), rooms only (from 2 fr.);

CONSTANTINOPLE PALACE HOTEL, Grande Rue de Péra (Pl. H, 2), R. 3–5, B.

1–1½, déj. 3, D. 3½, pens. 7–12 fr.; HÔT. PAULICK, same street,

adjoining the Russian Embassy (Pl. H, 3), R. 2¼–6, unpretending; HÔT.

RUBIN, R. from 2 fr.

=Restaurants= (European cuisine; _à la carte_). AT PERA. *_Tokatlian_,

at the hotel of that name (see above); _Janni_ (Brasserie Viennoise),

Grande Rue de Péra 396; _Nicoli_ (Brass. Suisse), same street, No.

380; _Restaurant Lebon_, same street, No. 434; _Restaurant Anzière_,

near the Baluk Bazaar (p. 545), D. 15 pias., well spoken of;

restaurants in summer in the gardens of the _Petits Champs_, in winter

in the winter-theatre (concerts).—AT GALATA. _Restaurant ‘D.D.’_,

dinner only, well spoken of.—AT STAMBUL. _Railway Restaurant_ (see

above), with garden, well spoken of; _Tokatlian_, in the Great Bazaar.

=Cafés.= _Tokatlian_ and _Lebon_, see above; also in the _Public

Grounds at Pera_, in the _Taxim Park_ (Pl. I, 1), and others in the

Grande Rue de Péra.—There are _Turkish Cafés_, well shaded, opposite

the Aya Sophia and in the small public garden there (Pl. H, 7); also

at the piers of the local steamers, etc.; small cup of coffee 20

paras. Those at Galata should be avoided.—CONFECTIONERS. _Tokatlian_,

_Lebon_, see p. 537; _Mulassier_, Grande Rue de Péra, cor. of Rue de

Pologne.

=Cabs= (_araba_). It is best to fix the fare beforehand according to

the tariff. Drive of ¼ hr. 5, of 25 min. 7½, and of 40 min. 10 pias.;

1 hr. 15, each addit. hr. 10 pias.; two hours after sunset charges are

raised by one-quarter and from midnight till sunrise by one-third; for

the whole day 80 pias.—HORSES (_at_, _begir_) at Top Haneh, near the

Yedikuleh station, etc.; 5–10 pias. per hour, according to bargain

(and small gratuity to horse-boy).

=Tramways= (comp. Plan; electric lines under construction). Most of

the cars have two classes and a compartment for Turkish women. Fare

30–60 or 40–80 paras according to class (printed on the tickets in

French). The passenger states his destination or names the station

nearest to it.—=1.= _Galata_ (at lower end of Yüksek Kaldirim, Pl. H,

4) to Galata Seraï (Pl. H, 2; 40 or 60 paras), Taxim (Pl. I, 2), and

_Shishli_ (to the N. of Pl. I, 1).—=2.= _Asab Kapu_ (Pl. G, 3; at the

Old Bridge) to Galata (Pl. H, 4), Top Haneh (Pl. I, 3), Kabatash (Pl.

K, 2), Dolma Bagcheh, Beshiktash, and _Ortakiöi_ (p. 558).—=3.= _Emin

Önu_ (Pl. H, 5; at S. end of New Bridge) to Sirkeji (rail. stat.),

So-uk Cheshmeh, Kapu (Museum), Aya Sophia (Pl. H, 7), Chemberli Tash

(Colonne Brûlée; Pl. G, 6), Sultan Bayazid (Pl. G, 6), Ak Seraï (Pl.

D, E, 6; change cars), and _Top Kapu_ (Pl. B, 4).—=4.= _Ak Seraï_ (Pl.

D, E, 6) to _Yedikuleh_ (Pl. A, 9).

=Tunnel Railway=, the chief means of communication between the New

Bridge and Pera; lower station (Pl. H, 4) at Galata, Rue Yéni Djami;

upper station (Pl. H, 3), in the Place du Tunnel at Pera. Cars every 5

min.; 30 or 20 paras; book of 10 tickets, 2nd cl., 5 pias.

=Local Steamers= (comp. inset maps on the Plan; time-tables in the

newspapers; ply till sunset). =a.= On the GOLDEN HORN, to _Eyúb_, from

the pier (Pl. H, 4) to the W. of the N. end of the New Bridge, about

every ¼ hr. till sunset; tickets (to Eyúb 30 paras; 20 paras more for

cushioned seat) on the pier. Mid-stations, see p. 555. In spring and

summer smaller steamers ply between Eyúb and _Kiathaneh_ (Sweet

Waters, p. 556; 40 paras).—=b.= On the BOSPORUS, from the pier (Pl. H,

5) at the S. end of the New Bridge, to the E., where tickets are

obtained (to Büyükdereh in 1½ hr.; fare 160 or 100 paras, plus a tax

of 10 paras). There are three lines: European coast, Asiatic coast,

and Zigzag, recognizable by green, or red, or red and green

flags.—=c.= To SCUTARI, from the third pier to the left (E.; Pl. H,

4), coming from the N. end of the New Bridge, about every ½ hr.; fare

50 or 30 paras; to PRINKIPO (p. 535), from the first pier to the left,

five or six times daily in summer, in 2 hrs.; fare 160 or 100

paras.—=d.= On the SEA OF MARMORA (no piers), from the Stambul Quay

(Pl. H, 5) vià Kum Kapu (Pl. G, 7), Yeni Kapu (Pl. E, 8), and Psamatia

Kapu (Pl. B, 8) to the suburbs of Makrikiöi and _San Stefano_ (p.

535).

=Boats= (no tariff; bargain necessary). To or from steamers, see p.

537; otherwise 10 pias. per hour. Ferry, by one of the long

flat-bottomed _Caïques_, with one rower, to Stambul 1–2 pias., to Eyúb

or Scutari, about 10 pias., with two rowers 15 pias.; per hour 15

pias.

=Post Offices.= _British_ (Pl. H, 4); _Turkish International_, Rue

Voïvode in Galata (Pl. H, 4), Grande Rue de Péra, opposite the Galata

Seraï, near the Yeni Valideh Jami (Pl. H, 5) in Stambul, and at the

railway-station. France, Germany, Austria-Hungary, and Russia also

have their own post-offices. French is generally understood. Postage

within Turkey ½–2 pias. for 10 grammes, post-card 20 paras; foreign

letters 1 pias. per 20 grammes.

=Telegraph Offices.= The _Turkish International Post Offices_ (see

above) send telegrams to foreign countries as well as within Turkey.

_Eastern Telegraph Co._, at the Turkish post-office, Grande Rue de

Péra (see above), for foreign parts (to Great Britain each word 66

c.).

=Steamboat Agents= (offices mostly behind the custom-house at Galata;

comp. Pl. H, 4). _Messageries Maritimes_, Mumhaneh Street; _N. Paquet

& Co._, T. Reboul; _Società Nazionale_, Barboro, Cité Française:

_North German Lloyd_, Mewes, Mumhaneh Street, Charab Iskelessi 7–9;

_German Levant Line_, Mehemed Ali Pasha-Han; _Austrian Lloyd_,

Mumhaneh Street; _Khedivial Mail_, Silley, Galata Quay, Meimanetli

Han; _Russian Steam Navigation & Trading Co._, Petcheneff, Kiretsh

Kapu; _Rumanian State Maritime Service_, Galata Quay.—=Tourist

Agents=, _Thos. Cook & Son_, Rue Kabristan 12, opposite Pera Palace

Hotel.

=Guides.= The _International Courier’s and Guides Office_, near the

Pera Palace Hotel (p. 537), provides reliable guides (10 fr. per day

for Constantinople and its environs, including the Bosporus).

=Embassies and Consulates.= GREAT BRITAIN: Ambassador, _Right Hon. Sir

G. A. Lowther_ (office, Pl. H, 2; in summer at Therapia).

Consul-General, _H. Eyres_ (office, Pl. H, 4); consul, _A. T. Waugh_;

vice-consul, _W. S. Edmonds_.—UNITED STATES: Ambassador, _O. S.

Straus_ (office, Pl. I, 2). Consul-General, vacat; vice-consul, _O. S.

Heizer_.

=Physicians.= English, German, and others (addresses at the hotels or

at the chemists’).—=Chemists.= In the Grande Rue de Péra, _Ehrlich_,

No. 579; _Canzuch & Giannetti_, No. 247; _Matkowitsch_, No. 420;

_Della Sudda_, No. 298; _Liechtenstein_, Helvaji Street, Galata.

=Baths= at the hotels.—Addresses of _Turkish Baths_ may be obtained at

the hotels.—SEA BATHS at the European places on the Bosporus.

=Banks.= _Banque Ottomane_, Rue Voïvode, Galata, and Grande Rue de

Péra 407, with exchange offices; _Crédit Lyonnais_, near the New

Bridge, Galata; also _German_, _German Orient_, _Vienna_, and

others.—MONEY CHANGERS (_sarráf_) abound in the Rue Karakeuï (Pl. H,

4; p. 543), Grande Rue de Péra, etc.

=Booksellers.= _Economic Book Store_, Passage du Tunnel; _O. Keil_,

No. 457, and _S. H. Weiss_, No. 481 Grande Rue de Péra.—NEWSPAPERS (¼

pias.). _Levant Herald_, with Engl. and Fr. editions; _Le Stamboul_,

_Moniteur Oriental_, French; _Osmanische Lloyd_, German and French.

All have steamboat and other time-tables and notices.

=Photographs & Picture Post Cards.= All in Grande Rue de Péra,

_Fruchtermann_, No. 335; _Keil_, No. 457; _Sébah & Joaillier_, No.

439; _Berggren_, No. 414 (line views of the city and environs).

Photographic materials sold by _Caracache Frères_, Nos. 675 and 398,

and _Weinberg_, No. 467.

=Theatre= in the grounds of the Petits Champs (Pl. H, 2).—A BAND plays

on summer evenings in the same grounds and in the Taxim Park (Pl. I,

1); adm. 1–2 pias.

=Churches.= _Church of England_, at the chapel of the British Embassy

(Pl. H, 2), during summer at Therapia (see p. 559); _Christ Church_

(Pl. H, 3), in the Rue Yazidji; _Presbyterian Church_, in the chapel

of the Dutch Legation, Rue des Postes, near the Grande Rue (Pl. H, 3).

=Sights.= _Antiquities, Collection of_, see New Museum.

_Bazaar, Great_ (p. 551), best visited early; closed 1 hr. before

sunset; Frid., Sat., and Sun. are respectively Moslem, Jewish, and

Christian holidays. Inexperienced travellers may bring a guide or the

dragoman of their hotel (but see p. xxvi). Large purchases may be sent

home by a goods-agent.

_Beylerbey Seraï_ (p. 558), adm. as in the case of the Seraglio.

_Chinili Kiosque_ (p. 547), see under New Museum.

_Egyptian Bazaar_ (_Missir Charshi_; p. 545), as the Great Bazaar.

_Galata Tower_ (p. 543), all day, 5 pias. (custodian with light, 2

pias.).

_Mosques_ (Turk. _Jami_; very small, _mesjid_), all open to Christians

till sunset; during Ramadan, the Moslem month of fasting, they are

gorgeously lighted and then open in the evening also (comp. p. 549).

At the inner door the sacristan provides overshoes, or visitors may

take off their own. Hats also are removed (comp. p. xxv). There is no

charge for admission but it is usual to give the sacristan a fee of 5

pias. per person (less for a party) for the loan of overshoes.—The

_Tomb Chapels_ (Turk, _türbeh_) are open on similar conditions; fee

1–5 pias., according to their importance.

_Museum, Janissaries’_ (p. 550), all day, 3 pias.—_Military Museum_,

in the Church of Irene (p. 548), Sun., Tues., & Thurs. 10–4.—_New

Museum_ (p. 546), daily except Frid., 9–5, in winter 10–3, adm. 5

pias.; tickets available for the Chinili Kiosque also.

_Seraglio Palace_ (p. 548). The consulates, to which application

should be made a few days beforehand, arrange for visits to the

_Treasury_ and part of the old Seraglio on Sun & Tues. (small fee).

_Türbeh_, see under Mosques.

TWO DAYS (when time is limited). 1st. Forenoon, *_Galata Tower_ (p.

543), _Yeni Valideh Jami_ (p. 545), *_New Museum_ (p. 546), _Chinili

Kiosque_ (p. 547); afternoon, trip on the *_Bosporus_ (p. 557), or to

_Scutari_ (p. 556); summer evening in the _Gardens of the Petits

Champs_ (p. 544) or the _Taxim Park_ (p. 544).—2nd. Forenoon, *_Aya

Sophia_ (p. 548), _At Meïdán_ (p. 549), *_Great Bazaar_ (p. 551),

*_Suleiman Mosque_ (p. 552); afternoon, _Land-Wall_ (p. 553); _Eyúb_

(pp. 555, 556); _Serasker Tower_ (p. 551).—Visitors should be on their

guard against pickpockets, especially in Galata and Pera.

_Constantinople_, Turk. _Stambul_ or _Stamboul_, Ital. _Costantinopoli_,

Slav. _Tsarigrad_ (emperor’s town), capital of the Turkish empire and

residence of the Sultan (since 1909 Mohammed V., b. 1844; successor of

Abdul Hamid, p. 544), is the seat of the government (the ‘Sublime

Porte’), and also of the Sheikh ul-Islam, of the patriarchs of the Greek

and Armenian churches, and of a papal legate. It lies on the Sea of

Marmora, at the mouth of the Bosporus, in 41° N. lat. and 28° 58′ E.

longitude.

The CITY consists of several distinct quarters. _Stambul_, in the

narrower sense, forms a nearly equilateral triangle between the Golden

Horn (p. 555) and the Sea of Marmora; to the N.E., on the slopes of the

opposite bank of the Golden Horn and on the adjacent shore of the

Bosporus, lie the Frank quarters of _Galata_ and _Pera_ and their

suburbs; and to the E., on the gently sloping Asiatic shore of the

Bosporus, lies the Turkish town of _Scutari_ with its suburbs. According

to recent estimates Constantinople contains 1,125,000 inhab. (or,

without the Asiatic quarters, 943,000), incl. about 500,000 Turks, more

than 200,000 Greeks, 180,000 Armenians, 65,000 Jews, mostly Spanish (see

p. 542), and 70,000 Europeans. The foreign residents are said to number

130,000.

The SITUATION of Constantinople has justly won the admiration of all

ages. The vast city of Stambul curving over the slopes between the Sea

of Marmora and the Golden Horn, the suburbs on the Bosporus, its green

banks studded with villages, palaces, and mosques, the Golden Horn with

its busy bridges and its countless vessels, all combine to form a

picture of matchless beauty.

The CLIMATE of Constantinople, which lies in the same latitude as Naples

(p. 137), is unsettled and comparatively cool. During the greater part

of the year the city is exposed to N.E. winds from the Siberian steppes,

which sweep through the Bosporus and in winter occasionally bring snow.

The best season for a visit is autumn (end of Sept. to beginning of

Nov.). The summer, however, is usually fine and not unbearably hot, the

coolest places being those on the Bosporus, a little to the N., which

are sheltered from the due S. winds (as Therapia, Büyükdereh, etc.). The

mean temperature of the year is 57½° Fahr., that of the hottest month

(Aug.) 74°, and that of the coldest (Feb.) 41°. The rainfall averages

28¾ in.

HISTORY. Attracted by the striking advantages of the site, at the

junction of two great portions of the globe and on the great water

highway between the Mediterranean and the Black Sea, the Dorians

founded the colony of =Byzantium=, about 660 B.C., on the promontory

(Seraglio Point, p. 536) commanding the entrance to the Bosporus. This

colony, however, like the towns on the coast of Asia Minor, was unable

to withstand the attacks of the Persians; when _Darius I._ crossed the

Bosporus in his campaign against the Scythians the Byzantines were

compelled to supply him with ships; and their town was afterwards

destroyed by the Persians for taking part in the Ionian revolt. The

long but somewhat weak alliance of Byzantium with Athens was succeeded

by closer bonds when the town was threatened by _Philip of Macedonia_.

Being hard pressed by _Phokion_ Philip was compelled to raise the

siege of the town (340–339). Under _Alexander the Great_ and his

successors Byzantium maintained its autonomy, but in 278 it suffered

seriously from an attack by the Gauls (‘Galatians’) settled in Thrace.

In the wars against _Philip III. of Macedonia_ Byzantium became the

natural ally of Rome, and this alliance continued to subsist under the

earlier Roman emperors. In 193–6 _Septimius Severus_ besieged the town

to punish it for siding with the rival emperor Pescennius Niger, and

deprived it of its liberties and privileges; but he afterwards rebuilt

the walls, regarding it as an important bulwark of the empire. In 269

_Emp. Claudius II._ here repelled the attacks of the _Goths_ when they

attempted to force their way south from the Danube.

Having become master of the whole empire by the capture of Byzantium

in 324 _Emp. Constantine_ chose it as his new capital on account of

its admirable situation on the threshold of the East. In 330 it was

officially styled New Rome, but soon became generally known as

=Constantinopolis=. Enclosed by Constantine’s new walls it now

extended to the W. to the region of the present Old Bridge (Pl. F, 4)

and of Psamatia (Pl. B, C, 8). The Romans retained the old division of

the city into fourteen regions, and they even found in it their seven

hills again. The environs as far as the 7th milestone (hebdomon),

called the exokionion, were assigned to the seven milliarii of the

Gothic body-guard. Under _Arcadius_, in 395, Constantinople became the

capital of the new E. Roman empire. The rapid increase of the

population and the necessity of defending it against the attacks of

the _Huns_ and _Goths_ induced _Anthemius_, regent during the minority

of _Theodosius II._ (408–50), to build the new Theodosian town-walls,

½–1¼ M. to the W. of those of Constantine. In 439 sea-walls along the

Sea of Marmora and the Golden Horn were added, and after 447, in

consequence of an attack by Attila and to repair the damage done by an

earthquake, the land-walls were restored and strengthened.

Byzantium attained the zenith of its prosperity under _Justinian_

(527–65). He rebuilt the city, after its almost entire destruction in

532 during the rebellion of the circus parties (Nika revolt), in a far

grander style, and on the site of Constantine’s basilica founded the

famous church of St. Sophia. In the form of Byzantine civilization

antique culture survived until the middle ages, although finally in a

merely torpid state. This Byzantine development, with its Greek

language and independent Oriental church under the patriarchal

government at Constantinople, was an outcome of the late Greek

(‘Hellenistic’) and Roman culture.

After the time of Justinian the empire was shaken to its foundations

by intestine disorders and foreign wars. The attacks of the _Avars_

and _Persians_ (627) were succeeded by the irruption of the _Arabs_

under the Omaiyades (p. 485), who in 673–8 and 717–8 besieged

Constantinople by sea and by land. About the same time the

_Bulgarians_ founded an independent kingdom in the Balkan peninsula,

and they too (in 813 and 924) attacked the city. Russian fleets forced

their way into the Sea of Marmora in 860 and 1048. Economically, too,

Constantinople was on the wane; from the 11th cent. onwards the

_Seljuks_ were gaining ground in Asia Minor, and the Italian maritime

cities were rapidly acquiring wealth and power.

The quarrels of aspirants to the throne during the Angelos dynasty led

in 1204 to the capture of Constantinople by the Crusaders and to the

foundation of a new western or ‘Latin’ empire. In 1261 the Greek

emperor _Michael Palaeologos_, who resided at Nikæa, succeeded in

driving the Franks out of Constantinople with the aid of the Genoese,

to whom he presented Galata (see below) as a reward. But the Turkish

peril came ever nearer. The _Osmans_, having conquered Asia Minor in

the 13th cent., crossed the Dardanelles (comp. p. 534) under _Orkhân_

in 1357, and under _Murad I._, in 1361, made Adrianople the residence

of the sultans instead of Brussa. They were weakened for a time by the

attacks of Timur (p. 485), but in 1411 and 1422 they proceeded to

besiege Constantinople.

After a heroic defence by _Constantine XI. Palaeologos_, the last

Greek emperor, the city was at length captured in 1453 by _Mohammed

II._ (Mehemed el-Fatih, ‘the conqueror’), and under the name of

=Stambul= became the capital of the Osmans. Its fortunes were now at

their lowest ebb; it was almost entirely depopulated and reduced to

ruins, as had been its fate when captured by the Crusaders in 1204.

But soon Turkish settlers from all quarters thronged to the new

capital, and many Christians also, their lives and religion being

safeguarded, while numerous Jews banished from Spain in 1492 found a

new home here and have retained their old language and characteristics

ever since. The building enterprise of the Turkish sultans, especially

of _Selim I._ (1512–20), the conqueror of Syria, Mesopotamia, and

Egypt, and of _Suleiman the Great_ (1520–66), as well as of the

Turkish magnates, was directed exclusively to public edifices. They

erected mosques (p. 539) on the model of the earlier church of the

Apostles and of the Aya Sophia (or church of St. Sophia), tomb-chapels

(p. 539), bazaars and warehouses (_han_), and baths and fountains

(_sebil_, with running water; _cheshmeh_, draw-well). In the midst of

these sumptuous buildings lay a labyrinth of crooked streets and

lanes, the brightly painted timber houses with their grated balconies

(kafehs) being often of one story only, while here and there this

strange sea of houses was relieved by gardens and burial-grounds.

To some extent, notwithstanding destructive fires (as in 1865 and

1908) and earthquakes (the last in 1894), the old Oriental

characteristics of the city still survive in the old town of

_Stambul_, the chief seat of the Oriental merchants and the petty

traders, and also at Scutari (p. 556). _Galata_, on the other hand,

the centre of the European trade, is much like an Italian

seaport-town. Above it, to the N., lies _Pera_, a suburb which sprang

up in the 19th cent., and which, since a great fire in 1870, has been

almost entirely rebuilt in quite European fashion.

Of BOOKS on Constantinople may be mentioned: _Grosvenor_,

Constantinople (2 vols., London, 1895); _W. H. Hutton_, Constantinople

in the ‘Mediæval Towns Series’ (London, 1900); and _Van Millingen_,

Byzantine Constantinople, The Walls, etc. (London, 1899).

a. Galata and Pera.

=Galata=, the oldest suburb of Constantinople, rises on the slope of a

plateau on the N. side of the entrance to the Golden Horn (p. 555),

corresponding with the 13th region of the city of Constantine (p. 541).

In the middle ages it was usually called _Peira_. Its inhabitants are

chiefly Greeks and Armenians. In 1304 the Genoese (see above) enclosed

it with a wall, and down to 1453 held an almost independent position

under their own rulers (podestà). The wall was often rebuilt and was at

last removed (1864).

Behind the GALATA QUAY (Pl. H, I, 4), constructed in 1879–95, lies a

labyrinth of narrow and dirty streets, extending to the other side of

the GRAND RUE DE GALATA (p. 545), the chief thoroughfare to the N.E.

suburbs. At the S.W. end of the latter are the still busier RUE DE

KARAKEUÏ (Pl. H, 4), beside the New Bridge (p. 545), and the Place

Karakeuï. where the _Exchange_ rises on the left.

In the old-fashioned W. quarter of Galata are the ruinous _Palace of the

Podestà_ (in the Pershembeh Bazaar, Pl. H, 4) and the _Arab Jami_ (Pl.

G, 4), the oldest mosque in the city, which was founded at the time of

the Arab attacks (717). Near it is the _Yanik Kapu_, an old Genoese

gateway. A little farther on, near the Old Bridge (p. 552), is the _Asab

Kapu Jami_ (Pl. G, 3, 4), erected by Sinán (p. 552), adjoining which is

a beautiful *_Sebíl_ (p. 542), with gilded railings and far projecting

timber roof (18th cent.).

From the Old Bridge Pera is reached by the broad Rue Iskander (Pl. G,

3), and from the New Bridge by the steep and dirty YÜKSEK KALDIRIM (Pl.

H, 3, 4), partly in steps (and also by the tunnel or by tramway No. 1;

p. 538).

On the boundary between Galata and Pera, a little to the W. of the N.

end of the Yüksek Kaldirim, rises the =Galata Tower= (Pl. H, 3; 148 ft.

high), now entirely modernized, the ascent of which (p. 539) forms the

best introduction to a walk through the city. It marks the spot where

the new land-walls on the E. and W. sides of Galata met in 1348. We

mount 143 steps to the room of the fire-watchmen, and 72 more to the

three upper stories.

The *PANORAMA from the fourteen windows of the watchmen’s room

embraces Galata with the buildings on the quay; to the N.E. is the

Jihangir Mosque (p. 544); opposite, on the Asiatic coast, to the

extreme left is the palace of Beylerbey (p. 558); farther to the S. is

Scutari, dominated by the Great and Little Bulgurlu (p. 557). To the

S.E. lie the Princes Islands (p. 535); to the S., above the S. coast

of the Sea of Marmora, rises the Bithynian Olympos (p. 535). With the

aid of the Plan of the city we may easily locate the chief buildings

of Stambul, from the Aya Sophia and the Ahmed Mosque with its six

minarets, to the S., round to the Great Bazaar with its numerous

little domes, to the Place d’Armes (Séraskier-Kapou), with the great

tower, the barracks, and the Suleiman Mosque, to the Mihrimah Mosque,

and to the Byzantine city-wall at the extreme N. end of Stambul. At

our feet lies the Golden Horn, with the two bridges and the naval

harbour. In the distance, to the N.W., peeps the mosque of Eyúb (see

inset map in Plan of city).

The modern streets of =Pera=, the European quarter, run to the N.W. from

the Galata Tower, between old Turkish cemeteries and large gardens,

across the whole hill. The embassies to the Sublime Porte, the European

churches, schools, hospitals, and shops also are situated here.

The GRANDE RUE DE PÉRA (Pl. H, I, 3, 2), the continuation of Yüksek

Kaldirim, passes the _Monastery of the Dancing Dervishes_ (Tekkeh; Pl.

H, 3), whose strange performances may be witnessed on Fridays (except

during Ramadan), usually from 7.30 to 8.30 Turkish time (4½–3½ hrs.

before sunset; adm. 5 pias.).

We may now cross the Place du Tunnel, past the upper station of the

tunnel railway (Pl. H, 3; p. 538), and follow Rue Kabristan (or one of

the narrow streets to the left, farther to the N., such as the Rue

Vénédik) to the—

=Public Grounds of tho Petits Champs= (Pl. H, 3, 2), near the _British

Embassy_ (Pl. H, 2) and the chief hotels (p. 537). They afford a

beautiful view of Stambul and the Golden Horn, and are a favourite

resort in the afternoon and evening (concerts, see p. 539).

We return, to the N.E., by Rue Tepé Bachi to the Grande Rue de Péra,

whence the Rue Yéni Teharchi leads to the S.E., past the _Galata Seraï_

(Pl. H, 2; Imper. Lyceum), to Top Haneh.

Our street ends, at the N.W. end of Pera, at the PLACE DU TAXIM (Pl. 1,

2). Here on the right, adjoining the Kishla Jaddesí, are the _Artillery

Barracks_, one of the chief scenes of conflict on 25th April 1909 when

the Young Turks fought their way into the city, and the *=Taxim Park=

(Pl. I, 1; band, see p. 539), and on the left a large esplanade.

From the Place du Taxim we may ascend the Ayas Pasha Boulevard, past the

_German Embassy_, or from the Taxim Park the Dolma Bagtché Déré (Pl. K,

1; Dolma-garden valley), past the _Ecuries Impériales_, to PLACE DOLMA

BAGTCHÉ DÉRÉ. On the E. side of this square, below the suburb of that

name, rises the =Dolma Bagcheh Palace= (pp. 558, 546), of which only the

high walls with their superb gateways are seen on the inland side. The

sultan repairs hither weekly in solemn procession (‘selamlik’) to Friday

prayer (at noon), usually offered in the neighbouring _Valideh Jami_

(mosque of the sultan’s mother; Pl. K, 1, 2).

We may now follow the road to the N.E. through the adjacent suburb of

_Beshiktash_, where, opposite the steamboat pier, rises the _Türbeh

Kheireddin Barbarossa_ (p. 221), which is best viewed from the Bosporus.

Farther on are the ruins of the Chiragan Seraï (p. 558).

From the pier of Beshiktash a road leads to the N.E. to the =Yildiz

Kiosque=, surrounded with barracks and high walls, formerly the

residence of the now deposed sultan Abdul Hamid (1876–1909). The

_Palace_ and its _Park_, and the private _Hamidieh Mosque_, built of

white marble, are inaccessible.

It is now best to return by tramway (No. 2; p. 538) to the large suburb

of =Top Haneh= (Pl. I, 3), inhabited chiefly by Turks, with the loftily

situated _Jihangir Mosque_ (1553).

Here, in the esplanade of the Artillery Arsenal on the Bosporus, are

situated the _Mosque of Mahmud II._ (1830) and a fine but now roofless

_Well House_ of the time of Ahmed II. (1703–30), resembling the sebíl at

the Asab Kapu (p. 543). The _Mosque of Kilij Ali Pasha_ (Pl. I, 3) was

built by Sinán (p. 552).

We now return to Pera by the Rues Tchoukour Bostan and Yéni Tcharchi (p.

544), or by the GRANDE RUE DE GALATA (Pl. I, H, 3, 4), the busiest

international thoroughfare, to Place Karakeuï (p. 543).

b. Stambul.

From the Rue Karakeuï, in Galata, the =New Bridge= (Pl. H, 4, 5) crosses

the Golden Horn (p. 555) to Stambul (toll 10 paras; carr. 2½ pias.). It

was originally built of timber in 1845, and called _Sultan Valideh

Bridge_ after its founder (the ‘sultan’s mother’), and was rebuilt in

1877. The new iron bridge was begun in 1909. It affords beautiful *Views

of Galata and Stambul, of the Bosporus and the Asiatic coast, while its

busy and picturesque traffic presents scenes of endless variety.

At the S. end of the bridge lies the PLACE EMIN EUNOU (Pl. H, 5), called

also _Baluk Bazar_ or fish-market, beyond which rise the fine outlines

of the—

*=Yeni Valideh Jami= (Pl. H, 5), or ‘new mosque of the sultan’s mother’.

Begun in 1615 by _Khoja Kassim_ for the mother of Ahmed I., after the

model of Ahmed’s Mosque, and damaged by the great fire of 1660, it was

not completed till 1663. In the middle of the outer court are ranged, as

in all the larger Turkish mosques, the forecourt (harám) with its three

portals, the mosque itself, and the türbeh (p. 539), all turned towards

Mecca (to the S.E.).

The forecourt, with its two elegant minarets and large wooden roofs

above the side-portals, has a remarkably fine octagonal fountain of

ablution (shudrivàn) in the centre.

Like the Suleïmanieh (p. 552) the mosque is preceded by two

colonnades. In the interior the lower wall surfaces and the four

massive pillars of the dome are incrusted with bluish-green tiles. The

mihrâb wall is connected with the pillars by a gallery; adjoining it,

near the mihrâb or prayer-niche itself, are the superb pulpit and the

railed-in gallery of the sultan. The adjacent *Private Rooms of the

sultan still have their original decoration of fayence tiles and

stained glass.

The Türbeh contains the sarcophagus of the sultan’s mother and the

tombs of five sultans, recognizable by the turban and double heron’s

plume.

On the W. side of the outer court is the =Missir Charshi= (Pl. G, 5;

‘Egyptian Bazaar’), originally for goods from Egypt, but now a general

market, next in importance to the Great Bazaar (p. 551). Among the wares

in the open shops of the vaulted street the chief commodities are

spices, drugs, and pigments.

To the W. of the Egyptian Bazaar, at the foot of Rue Ousoun Tcharchi

(p. 551), rises the _Mosque of Rustem Pasha_ (Pl. G, 5), vizier of

Suleiman the Great (p. 542) and husband of his daughter Mihrimah (p.

553). It was built by Sinán (p. 552). The interior is noteworthy

chiefly for the superb effect produced by its fayence tiles.

We follow the tramway (No. 3; p. 538), to the S.E., through the Rue

Bagtché Kapou, so named after the old ‘garden-gate’ of Stambul, and the

Hamidieh Jaddesi, crossing the broad Bab Ali Jaddesi which leads to the

left to the _Railway Station_ (p. 537). Farther on we come to the wall

of the Seraglio on the left, and to (10 min.) the _Sublime Porte_ (Pl.

H, 6; vizierate and ministry of foreign affairs) on the right. Its

central part, which contained the ministry of home affairs and the

cabinet was burnt down in Feb. 1911.

The =Seraglio= or _Seraï_ (Pl. H-I, 5, 7; now officially called _Top

Kapu Seraï_, ‘seraglio of the cannon-gate’), with its neglected

garden-terraces and miscellaneous buildings, occupies the site of the

Acropolis and oldest streets of Byzantium (p. 541) and the first of the

seven hills of New Rome. Within the extensive precincts, enclosed by a

pinnacled wall and defended by towers, Mohammed II. in 1468 erected a

summer palace, which Suleiman the Great (p. 542) enlarged and made his

residence. All the sultans resided here until Abdul Mejíd built the

Dolma Bagcheh Palace (1850–5; p. 558). In 1873 the railway was carried

through the gardens, past the _Granite Column of Emp. Claudius II._

(268–70 A. D.). Around the palace are grouped the old church of Irene

(p. 548), several military and other new buildings, the imperial _Mint_,

and the _School of Art_ founded in 1889.

From the chief entrance, the _So-uk Cheshmeh Gate_ (Pl. H, 6), we ascend

to the right, past the Mint, to the first terrace. A road to the left

leads thence, behind the School of Art, to the New Museum, on the right,

and the Chinili Kiosque, on the left.

The =New Museum= (Pl. I, 6), opened in 1891, contains the imperial

**_Collection of Antiquities_, the arrangement of which is still

incomplete. Adm., see p. 539. Director, Halil Bey.

GROUND FLOOR. The first rooms, on the right and left of the entrance,

contain the sarcophagi, including the famous coffins discovered in

1887 in the so-called royal tombs of Sidon (p. 470). The two vaults,

in which the rulers of Sidon of the 6–4th cent. B. C. are supposed to

have been buried, contained 26 stone coffins, some in the Egyptian

form of a mummy, with sculptured heads, others shaped like Greek

temples. In several cases their execution is highly artistic. The

finest are in (right) Room I: *No. 48. So-called Satrap’s Coffin, of

Ionian workmanship (first half of 5th cent.); *49. Sarcophagus of the

mourning women, in marble, in the form of a temple, influenced in

style by the works of Praxiteles (4th cent.). In (left) Room II: *No.

75. Lycian sarcophagus, with lid in the form of a pointed arch,

executed under the fresh influence of the Parthenon reliefs (p. 517);

**76. Alexander sarcophagus, an Attic original (about 300 B. C.), with

traces of rich colouring; 90. Sarcophagus of Tabnit, king of Sidon,

originally that of an Egyptian general (6th cent.). Again, in Room I:

No. 1142. Tomb-stele from Nisyros (p. 490; about 500 B.C.); 45.

Tomb-stele from Pella, a fine early Greek work like the last; 31–33.

Fragments of Roman sarcophagi (Ulysses fighting against the wooers,

etc.); also leaden coffins from Beirut, Khoms (p. 412), etc. (Room II

contains also six terracotta coffins from Klazomenæ, 6th cent. B. C.).

Among the objects in the other rooms we note a large Lycian

sarcophagus from Trysa (2nd cent. B. C.); *1179. Late Roman

sarcophagus from the region of Konia, with the recumbent figures of

man and wife.

A large room is devoted solely to the art and inscriptions of the

Hittites, the dominating race on the Upper Euphrates, in Syria, and in

Asia Minor from about 1500 to 1000 B.C., who were afterwards split up

into small principalities and lost their national characteristics.

From this later period (about 9–8th cent.) date the numerous objects

from Senjerli in N. Syria (among others No. 873. Two sphinxes as a

base of a column). Other relics are from Marrash in N. Syria (840.

Lion with inscription) and from Albistan (835. Limestone pillar).

Two rooms are set apart for the Greek-Roman sculptures. Among the

chief early Greek works (6th cent. B.C.) are: No. 5bis. Reliefs from a

tombstone in the form of a pillar, with scenes of peace and war; 8,

133. Torso of Apollo and Relief of Hercules drawing his bow, both from

Thasos; 680. Tomb-stele from Dorylæum in Phrygia; *78. Head of a man,

early Ionian, from Rhodes; 32, 33. Kybele, from Kyme; 1136. Relief,

Birth of Athena, from Chalcedon.—Of the 5th cent.: No. 1189. Caryatid;

1433. Hermes Propylæos, after the famous work of Alkamenes (Roman

copy); *148. Snake’s head from the tripod in the At Meïdán (p. 549).

Among other creations of the Greek golden age (4th cent.) are: No.

1121. Statue of a youth; 114. Upper half of a stele, from Kyzikos;

1242. Relief with a portrait of Euripides; 1028. Relief of a woman

playing on the lyre, from Mysia.—Hellenistic sculptures from Pergamum

(p. 533): *764. Dancer, from a large circular monument; *1138. Marble

head (Alexander the Great?); 72. Marsyas hanging (a good copy); also

important: *709. Alexander the Great, from Magnesia on the Sipylos;

685. Colossal head of Zeus, from Troy; 9. Colossal statue of Apollo,

from Tralleis; *1423. Relief of a boatman (?), from Tralleis, in the

style of the ‘Alexandrine’ reliefs.—Of Roman origin: 31. Largest

representation of the so-called Thracian horseman, from a triumphal

arch at Saloniki.

In the room of the Byzantine antiquities we note No. 164. Statue of

the Good Shepherd (3rd cent.?); *1090. Early-Christian pulpit from

Saloniki, with the Adoration of the Magi in detached figures; 189,

190. Fragments of a column with scenes with figures (Baptism of

Christ, etc.; about 500); also interesting capitals with figures and

foliage ornamentation.

Two rooms form an Architectural Museum (Asia Minor relics).

The FIRST FLOOR is occupied by the Babylonian-Assyrian antiquities

(incl. the glazed terracotta sarcophagi from Nippur, and No. 1027.

Votive relief of king Narâm-Sin, about 3750 B.C.), the unimportant

Egyptian relics, and curiosities from Cyprus (p. 489), Himyar (region

of Yemen in S. Arabia), and Palmyra. Then collections of bronzes and

trinkets from Schliemann’s excavations at Hissarlik (p. 534), from the

Sidonian sarcophagi (p. 546), etc.; vases and terracottas from Asia

Minor (Hissarlik, Myrina, Priene), Cos (p. 490), and Rhodes; glass

vessels from Asia Minor, Cyprus, Syria, and Tripolitania; also a

collection of coins.—The N. wing contains the _Museum Library_.

The elegant =Chinili Kiosque= (Pl. I, 6; ‘fayence palace’), one of the

oldest Turkish buildings in the city, was erected in 1470 by _Kemal

ed-Din_ under Mohammed II., in the Persian style, and was restored in

1590. In 1908 it was converted into an *_Oriental Art Museum_. Adm., see

p. 539.

The two-storied portico (ticket-office on the left) contains

tombstones, etc.—The vestibule, with its original inscribed frieze, is

adorned with well-preserved green *Fayence Tiles.

The domed hall and five side-rooms contain Arabian, Persian, and

Turkish fayence, Turkish pottery, seals (tugres), firmans, and irades

of Turkish sultans, woodwork (koran-desks, cabinets, etc.), leather

(beautiful book-bindings), and metal work; also cut gems, Arabian and

Venetian glass, mosque-lamps, embroidery, and *Persian Carpets. The

chief treasures of the collection are the *Prayer Niche from the

palace of the Seljuk sultan Alaeddin at Konia (13th cent.) and a

throne of Selim I. (p. 512).

Passing the Mint (p. 546) we next enter the outer court of the Seraglio.

In the centre rises the huge _Janissaries’ Plane Tree_ (Pl. I, 6), where

the janissaries (p. 550) used to meet.—To the left the _Orta Kapu_ leads

to the _Seraglio Palace_ (adm., see p. 540). It contains the throne-room

(Arsh Odasi) of the time of Suleiman the Great, the Library, the

Imperial Treasury (hazneh han), and the superb Bagdad Kiosque (1639),

etc.

Above the outer court rises, on the right, the =Church of Irene= (Pl. I,

6; dedicated to ‘divine peace’), a domed basilica built by Constantine,

and restored first by Justinian after the Nika revolt (p. 541), and

again in 740. After the Turkish conquest it was used as an arsenal, but

is now a _Military Museum_ (adm., see p. 539).

We leave the Seraglio by the _Bab i Humayún_ (Pl. I, 6), the superb

modern gate of the sultan, replacing that of Mohammed II.

In the SERAÏ MEÏDÁN (Pl. I, 6, 7; ‘Seraglio Square’), on the S.W. side

of the palace-walls, rises the *_Fountain of Ahmed III._, erected in

1728, the finest sebíl in the city, with a well-preserved timber roof.

Nearly opposite are the Aya Sophia and the _Ministry of Justice_ (Pl. H,

1, 7), which was the meeting-place of the new Turkish parliament in

1908–9.

The **=Aya Sóphia Mosque= (Pl. H, 7; adm., see p. 539), formerly the

church of St. Sophia, 4 min. to the S. of the So-uk Cheshmeh Gate (p.

546), is the most famous edifice in the whole city. Here in 326,

opposite to his palace, Constantine erected a basilica, which he

dedicated to Divine Wisdom (Sophía), and which after a fire in 415 was

rebuilt by Theodosius II. The church having again been destroyed during

the Nika rebellion, Justinian caused the present sumptuous edifice,

which was to eclipse all others in the empire, to be erected in 532–7 by

_Anthemios_ of Tralleis and _Isidoros_ of Miletos.

The plan of the building is nearly square. Its axis, contrary to custom,

runs to the E.S.E., in line with that of the palace. It measures 82½ by

77 yds., but if the atrium or forecourt had still existed the length

would have been no less than 184 yds. The edifice with its nave and

aisles presents a curious combination of an ancient Christian basilica

with a dome-covered mosque. Above the nave, which is 36 yds. in breadth,

the great dome, 105 ft. in diameter and 184 ft. in height, but

externally inconspicuous, rises on four massive pillars. It is continued

lengthwise by two half-domes, relieved by niches, the large E. central

niche forming the apse. The upper story of the aisles, borne by antique

columns with capitals resembling imposts, and the galleries above the

inner vestibule contained the gynæceum, or women’s seats.

The Crusaders pillaged the church in 1204 (p. 542), and many of its

treasures were carried off also at the Turkish conquest. The mosaics

were whitewashed, the minaret at the S.E. angle was erected, and the

unsightly flying buttresses were added on the E. side. To the further

detriment of the general effect the successors of the conqueror built

the other three minarets, the mausoleums, schools, and outbuildings. A

thorough restoration was undertaken by _Fossati_, an Italian architect,

in 1847, when the outside was painted yellow with red stripes.

The entrance for visitors is in the N. side-street, by a door to the

left of the N.W. minaret. A few steps descend to the INNER VESTIBULE

(eso-narthex), from which five doors open on the outer vestibule

(exo-narthex) and nine portals lead into the interior. At the S. end

of the inner vestibule, opposite the N. entrance, is a Byzantine

*Bronze Door (9th cent.), with part of the original panels.

The northmost portal admits us to the *INTERIOR, in which the immense

central dome, in contrast to St. Peter’s at Rome, dominates the entire

nave. The marble pavement is partly destroyed and partly covered with

carpets and mats spread obliquely in the direction of Mecca (S.E.).

The mihrâb or prayer-recess has been placed, for the same reason, a

little to the S. of the axis of the apse. Beside the pillars of the

apse are, on the right, the mimbar, or Friday pulpit, and on the left

the octagonal grated gallery of the sultan, resting on eight antique

columns. The nave contains several open galleries or tribunes for

prayer-recitals. The Koran niche in the S. aisle also is worth seeing.

(Visitors should be careful not to touch anything.)

During the nights of Ramadan (p. 539) visitors are admitted only to

the galleries, which the sacristan will show at other times.

On the S. side of the mosque, adjoining the Aya Sophia Meïdán, rise

five TÜRBEHS, or burial-chapels of sultans. The southmost, once the

baptistery of the church, dates perhaps from Justinian’s reign.

The AYA SÓPHIA MEÏDÁN (Pl. H, 7), a busy square planted with trees, on

the S. side of the mosque, was the ancient _Augusteion_ (or Agorá), the

greatest centre of traffic in New Rome, whence the triumphal road led to

the Golden Gate (p. 554). Down to the Turkish conquest it was adorned

with a mounted statue of Justinian. Adjoining it on the S.W. lies the AT

MEÏDÁN (Pl. H, 7; ‘horse square’), 330 yds. long, partly occupying the

site of a _Hippodrome_ begun by Sept. Severus (p. 541) and completed by

Constantine. From these two squares, and from the Seraï Meïdán (p. 548),

the Roman and Byzantine imperial palaces, with their dependencies and

several churches, extended to the S.E. to the town-wall on the Sea of

Marmora.

At the N. angle of At Meïdán, where Rue Divan Yolou (p. 550) diverges,

lies a small _Public Garden_. Farther on, to the S.W., passing a _Street

Fountain_ presented by Emp. William II. in 1898, we come to three

ancient monuments which still occupy their old places on the spina of

the Hippodrome (comp. p. 348). One is the _Obelisk of Theodosius I._,

dating from the time of Thutmosis III. (p. 456; brought from

Heliopolis), with Roman reliefs, on the pedestal, of the imperial family

viewing the races from the court-stand of the Hippodrome. The second is

the bronze *_Snake Column_, once the central support of a huge tripod

which the Greeks erected as a votive offering at Delphi after the

victory of Platæa (p. 506). The third is the so-called _Colossus_, an

obelisk of unknown origin.

No less conspicuous than the Aya Sophia is the *=Mosque of Ahmed I.=

(Pl. H, 7), on the S.E. side of At Meïdán. It was built by the young

sultan of that name in 1608–14 as the second-largest mosque in the city,

and is the only one besides the Kaaba at Mecca that has six minarets.

The large outer court, planted with trees and often used as a

market-place, is separated from At Meïdán by a broken-down wall. The

lofty chief portal, with its stalactite niche and its fine bronze gate,

leads into a forecourt flanked with domed colonnades where we notice the

pretty stalactite capitals. In the centre rises a superb hexagonal

marble fountain with a railing.

The interior of the mosque (79 by 70 yds.), in the style of the

Mehmedieh (p. 553), resembles the Shahzadeh mosque (p. 552) in the

disposition of its four half-domes. The great central dome, 73 ft. in

diameter, rests on four clumsy round pillars, and around it runs a low

gallery with depressed keel-arches. The walls are lined with white

marble below and with beautiful fayence tiles from Nikæa above.

To the S.W. of At Meïdán is the _Janissaries’ Museum_ (Pl. G, H, 7;

adm., see p. 539), in which are exhibited wax-figures wearing the

ancient costumes of Turkish dignitaries and the uniforms of the

Janissaries, or old body-guard (1328–1826).

To the S. of the Museum, close to the railway, rises the *=Küchük Aya

Sóphia= (Pl. H, 7, 8), or ‘little’ mosque of Aya Sophia, a kind of

prelude to the ‘great’, now containing a military museum. It was built

under Justinian in 528, at the same time as San Vitale at Ravenna, as

a church of _SS. Sergius and Bacchus_. The building is nearly square,

with semicircular niches at the angles, and encloses an octagonal

interior, between the eight corner-columns of which are four

semicircular niches and four straight rows of columns. The junction of

the walls with the dome was masked, as later in the Sophia Church, by

curved triangular spandrels or pendentives.

Beyond the public garden (p. 549) we enter the RUE DIVAN YOLOU (tramway

No. 3, p. 538). At the end of it, on the right, is a railed-in

burial-ground containing the handsome _Türbeh of Mahmud II._ (d. 1839)

and his son Abdul Aziz (sultan in 1861–76). Entrance to the right, in

Rue Mahmoudié.

In the main street, now called Sedefdjilar Yolou, we next come to the

second hill of New Rome (p. 541), crowned with the so-called =Burnt

Column= (Pl. G, 6; Turk. _Chemberli Tash_, ‘stone with the hoop’). This

great column of porphyry was erected by Constantine on the ancient

‘triumphal way’, to mark the centre of his forum, and bore his statue in

bronze down to 1105. It was restored in 1909. The street then leads past

the Kalpakjilar Kapu (on the right), the S. gate of the Great Bazaar (p.

551), to the Bayazid Mosque (p. 551).

From the Burnt Column the Rue Nouri Osmanié leads to the N. to the white

marble _Mosque of Nuri Osmanieh_ (Pl. G, 6), a bold dome-roofed edifice

copied from the Selim Mosque (p. 553), but with a semicircular

forecourt.

Adjacent on the W. is the *=Great Bazaar= (Pl. G, 6; Turk. _Büyük

Charshi_, ‘great market’), one of the sights of Constantinople. It lies

in a depression between the Nuri Osmanieh Mosque and the Serasker Square

(see below) and forms a distinct quarter of the city, enclosed by gates.

As in the sûks (p. 335) the crafts mostly have their own streets or

districts. Most of the buildings have been re-erected since the

earthquake of 1894. To the early 17th cent. belongs the still extant

castellated _Valideh Han_ (see below); of the early 18th cent. are the

_Bezestán_ (the main central building, founded in the 10th cent.) and

the _Sandal Bezestán_. Besides genuine Oriental wares many European

goods also are sold here.

The _Nuri Osmanieh Kapu_, on the W. side of the outer court of the

mosque, opens on to the KALPAKJILAR BASHI JADDESÍ, the main

thoroughfare on the S. side of the Bazaar. Immediately on the right is

the _Sandal Bezestán_, once the silk-bazaar, now a warehouse (usually

closed).

The street on the N. side (Restaurant Tokatlian, see p. 537) leads to

the W. after a few paces to the =Bezestán= (Pl. Bez.; G, 6), where

artistic old weapons, gold and silver wares, inlaid furniture, etc.

are displayed. In the street on the E. side are sold jewels and

trinkets; on the N. side cloth, Oriental antiquities, and books; on

the W. side Turkish women’s apparel and embroidery; on the S. side

leather-work, etc.

From the W. gate of the Bezestán we pass through the Bezestán Jaddesí,

with its clothes-shops, to the OUSOUN TCHARCHI, the main street

ascending from the Rustem Pasha Mosque (p. 545) to the S. gate

(Kalpakjilar Kapu, p. 550). Going straight on we may ascend through

the curved Fesjiler Jaddesi, the fez-market, to the BIT BAZAR JADDESI,

a street running to the N. and S., the entrance to the (left)

_Second-hand Market_ (Bat Bazar, jestingly called ‘bit bazar’ or

louse-market). In the other direction, a few paces to the N., is the

Hakkaklar Sokak, with the stalls of the seal-engravers, booksellers,

etc., leading to the Bayazid Mosque.

Those who intend to return from the Great Bazaar direct to the New

Bridge (p. 545) may visit also the _Valideh Han_ (Pl. G, 5, 6; see

above), the seat of the Persian traders, situated in the Chakmakjilar

Yokussu, diverging to the E. from the Ousoun Tcharchi.

On the third hill of the city, the site of the forum of Theodosius I.,

rise the Bayazid Mosque and the Seraskerat in its large court.

The *=Mosque of Bayazid= (Pl. G, 6) was erected in 1489–97 by the

Albanian _Kheireddin_, under sultan Bayazid, son of Mohammed II., the

conqueror. The handsome portals of the forecourt recall Seljuk

prototypes. The beautiful forecourt, enlivened ever since the time of

the founder by countless pigeons, has pointed arcades with elegant

domes. In the centre is an octagonal fountain. The interior, tastelessly

painted in the Turkish rococo style in the 18th cent., is a simplified

imitation of the Aya Sophia.

To the N. of the mosque the _Serasker Kapu_, the modern S. gateway,

leads into the court, now a drilling-ground, of the _Seraskerat_ (Pl. F,

G, 5; or ministry of war). Here once stood the _Eski-Seraï_, the oldest

palace of the sultans (comp. p. 546). The *=Serasker Tower= (closed on

Frid.; fee 3–5 pias.), about 200 ft. high, built by Mahmud II. (d. 1839)

of white marble from the island of Marmara (p. 535), affords a

magnificent view of the city.

Behind the barracks on the N. side of the Seraskerat, or by the Serasker

Jaddesi to the right, we descend to the terrace of the Suleiman Mosque,

which is surrounded by schools, baths, and the _Residence of the Sheikh

ul-Islam_.

The **=Mosque of Suleiman the Great= (Turk. _Suleïmanieh_; Pl. F, G, 5),

erected in 1550–66 by the Albanian _Sinán_ (Mimar Sinán Agha), on the

model of the Aya Sophia and the Bayazid Mosque, is one of the two

master-works of this most famous of Turkish architects (the other being

the Selim mosque at Adrianople). The superb chief portal on the N.W.

side is three stories in height. At the angles of the forecourt (63 by

49½ yds.) rise four minarets of unequal height. The exterior of the

mosque is embellished with two arcades; the smaller domes are charmingly

grouped round the great dome; the latter, only 85 ft. in diameter, is

loftier than that of Aya Sophia.

Notwithstanding the striped decoration with which it was marred at the

time of the restoration under Abdul Aziz (p. 550), the interior

surpasses all the other mosques of Constantinople in harmony of

structure, in picturesqueness of perspective, and in magnificence of

ornamentation, but is unfortunately badly lighted. Between the four

pillars of the dome, on each side, are two monolith columns, 29 ft.

high, with stalactite capitals, supporting the upper stories of the

aisles. The *Mihrâb Wall is enriched with beautiful fayence tiles and

with stained glass by _Serkosh Ibrahim_.

In the burial-ground behind the mosque rise the handsome _Türbehs of

Suleiman_ (fee 5 pias.) and his favourite wife _Roxolana_.

From the outer court of the mosque, with its fine old cypresses and

plane-trees, we may descend to the E. to Rustem Pasha’s Mosque (p.

545) and the New Bridge (p. 545); or we may go to the N.W. to the _Old

Bridge_ (Pl. F, G, 4; p. 555; toll 10 paras) and the Rue Iskander (p.

543).

From the W. gate of the Seraskerat, or from the W. angle of the outer

court of the Suleiman mosque, we may soon reach the two-storied

=Aqueduct of Valens= (Pl. F, E, 6, 5), dating from the reign of that

emperor (368 A. D.) but much restored. It bridges the space between the

fourth and third hills of the city.

On the S. side of the aqueduct, near the scene of the great fire of

1908, rises the _Shahzadeh Mosque_ (Pl. E, F, 5; ‘prince’s mosque’), an

early work of Sinán (see above), erected by Suleiman in 1543–7 in memory

of his son Mohammed. The plan is similar to that of the Mehmedieh (see

below). It is charmingly fitted up in the interior. In the two türbehs

repose the princes Mohammed and Jíhangir and the princess Mihrimah. As a

rule the muezzin permits visitors to ascend one of the minarets for a

small gratuity.

From this mosque the Rue Chahsadé Bachi ascends to the N.W. to the

=Mosque of Mohammed II.= (Pl. D, E, 4; _Mehmedieh_ or _Fatih Jami_;

comp. p. 542), the holiest in Constantinople after that of Eyúb (p.

555). It was built by the Greek _Christodulos_ in 1463–9 on the fourth

hill of the city, on the site and with the materials of the _Apostles’

Church_. This church, founded by Constantine, had been restored by

Justinian and was famous as the burial-place of the emperors.

The outer court, planted with cypresses, on the N.W. side of which a

busy market is held, is surrounded, as in the Byzantine age, by a great

many miscellaneous buildings. The plan of the mosque is probably the

same as that of the Apostles’ Church. The forecourt is commanded by two

minarets. The interior, in the form of a Greek cross, has four

half-domes in the two axes adjoining the central dome, four smaller

corner-domes, and three galleries. The whole building was modernized

after the earthquake of 1767.

The first _Türbeh_ behind the mosque is that of ‘the Conqueror’.

From the N.W. corner of the outer court the Sultan Mehmed and Sultan

Selim streets lead to the N. to the _Mosque of Selim I._ (Pl. E, 3;

Turk. _Selimieh_) on the fifth city-hill, erected by Suleiman the

Great in 1520–6 in memory of his warlike father Selim I. (p. 542).

This is the simplest of all the sultans’ mosques. The outer walls are

roofed with a single semicircular dome.

To the S. of Mehmedieh, between the fourth city-hill and the _Lykos

Valley_, among the ruins caused by a fire, rises _Marcian’s Column_

(Pl. D, E, 5; Turk. Kiz Tash, maiden’s stone), erected in honour of

that emperor (450–7).

In the Lykos Valley, to the S.W. of Marcian’s Column, once lay the

_Barracks of the Janissaries_ (p. 550), who were massacred in the Et

Meïdán here (Pl. D, 5; ‘place of flesh’) after a revolt in 1826.—In

the _Ak Seraï_ quarter (Pl. D, E, 6), on the ancient triumphal way (p.

550), lay the Roman _Forum Boarium_ (cattle-market). The road ascended

thence to the seventh city-hill. Here, in the quarter now called

_Avret Bazar_, is still seen the pedestal of the marble _Column of

Arcadius_ (Pl. D, 7; Turk. Avret Tash, women’s stone), the sole

surviving relic of the forum of Arcadius.

From the Mehmedieh a main street (carr. 5 pias.) leads direct in ¼ hr.,

to the N.W., to the Edirneh Kapu (see below).

Beside the city-wall, near Rue Edirné Kapou, is the sixth and highest

city-hill, on which rises the _Mihrimah Mosque_ (Pl. C, 3), built in

1556 by Sinán (p. 552) for the princess Mihrimah (p. 545), on the site

of the Byzantine monastery of St. George, and restored in 1910.—From the

Greek _Church of St. George_ we walk about 250 paces to the N.E., and

then descend to the right, near the city-wall, to visit the—

=Kahrieh Mosque= (Pl. C, 2), once the church of the monastery of _Chora_

(‘in the country’), which probably existed before the time of Theodosius

II. It was restored in the 11th cent. and enlarged in the 14th, and

contains famous Byzantine *Mosaics (sacristan lives near).

We now turn our steps to the ruinous _Edirneh Kapu_ (Pl. C, 2;

Adrianople Gate), the gate of Charisius or cemetery-gate (Porta

Polyandriu) of the Byzantines.

Outside the gate, where stretches the largest _Moslem Cemetery_ of

Stambul, we obtain an excellent view of the old *=Land-Wall= of the

city, over 4 M. in length. The chief part of it is the _Theodosian Wall_

(p. 541), extending from the Sea of Marmora to the Tekfur Seraï (see

below). This was originally a single wall, defended by towers, but after

an earthquake in 447 it was doubled, the two walls being 66 yds. apart

and, from the bottom of the moat, 100 ft. high.

The S. part of the land-wall may be visited by carriage (one-horse 10,

two-horse 10 or 15 pias.; bargaining necessary) from the Edirneh Kapu.

We drive past _Top Kapu_ (Pl. A, 4; ‘cannon-gate’), once the gate of

St. Romanos, famed in the siege of 1453, to Yedi Kuleh railway-station

(Pl. A, B, 9). We may return thence to the town by local train (about

every ½ hr.), or from the Yedi Kuleh Gate by tramway (No. 4; change at

Ak Seraï, p. 553), or from Psamatia Kapu (Pl. B, 8) by local steamer

(p. 538).

Near the S. end of the wall rises the castle of =Yedi Kuleh= (Pl. A,

9; ‘seven towers’; adm. except Sun. 2½ pias.; small fee to

lantern-bearer), rebuilt by Mohammed II., within which is the

dilapidated _Porta Aurea_ (‘golden gate’), once the triumphal gate of

the Byzantine emperors.—On the Sea of Marmora, at the point where the

land-wall joined the _Marmora Sea Wall_, rises the octagonal _Mermer

Kuleh_ (Pl. A, 9; ‘marble tower’), the sole relic of a castle of the

time of Emp. Basil II. (976–1025).

To the N.E. of the Edirneh Kapu, beyond the _Greek Cemetery_ (Pl. C, 2),

the Theodosian city-wall is joined by the single but stronger _Wall of

the Blachernae Quarter_ (‘marsh-land quarter’). This wall served for the

defence of the famous St. Mary’s Church of the empress Pulcheria (ca.

450), and for that of the Blachernæ Palace, founded at the end of the

5th cent., which in the 12th cent. became the imperial residence instead

of the older palaces in the Augusteion (p. 549). The wall dates partly

from the reigns of Emp. Heraklios (610–41), Leo V. (813–20), and Manuel

Comnenus (1143–80), but was largely rebuilt in the 14th and 15th

centuries.

The ruined Byzantine palace rising above the town-wall near the small

_Kerkoporta_ (Pl. C, 2), the so-called _Tekfur Seraï_ (‘emperor’s

palace’), was probably founded by Constantine VII. Porphyrogenetos

(912–59). Of the _Blachernae Palace_ itself the foundations are still

traceable between the _Egri Kapu_ (Pl. C, 1; once Porta Kaligaria) and

the Aivas Effendi Mosque. To the old terrace of the palace belonged the

massive _Towers of Isaak Angelos_ and _Anemas_ (Pl. C, 1).

On the N. side the land-walls end with the picturesque castle of

_Brachionon_ or _Pentapyrgion_, answering to the Yedi Kuleh on the S.

side. It lies between the inner and the site of the outer Blachernæ

gate. Near it are buried the Arabs who fell in 678 (p. 541).

From the _Aivan Seraï Kapu_ (Pl. D, 1), which belongs to the old _Sea

Wall on the Golden Horn_ (p. 541), a broad road to the left (N.W.) leads

through the suburb of _Ortakjilar_ (Pl. B, C, 1) to (¾ M.) Eyúb (p.

555). Straight on, we soon reach the Aivan Seraï pier (p. 555).

c. The Golden Horn.

By CAÏQUE (p. 538) from the New Bridge to Eyúb about 1 hr., to the

Sweet Waters 1½–2 hrs. (there and back 20–25 pias.). The row back is

particularly fine towards sunset.—STEAMBOAT (p. 538) to Eyúb in ¾ hr.,

thence to the Sweet Waters 20 min.

The =Golden Horn=, already named _Chrysokeras_ by the Greeks, an arm of

the sea 4½ M. long and at the widest point ½ M. across, probably a

submerged side-valley of the Bosporus, is one of the finest natural

harbours in the world. In the Byzantine period it was closed for

defensive purposes by a chain. It consists of the _Outer Commercial

Harbour_ (Pl. H, I, 4, 5), with the Galata Quay (p. 543) and the new

quays on the Stambul side, the _Inner Commercial Harbour_ (Pl. G, H, 4),

between the two bridges, and the _Naval Harbour_ (Pl. E-G, 2, 3).

The voyager on the Golden Horn is chiefly struck with the busy harbour

scenes and the picturesque appearance of the crowded Oriental quarters

rising from the banks. Starting from the New Bridge (Pl. H, 4) the

steamer crosses the inner commercial harbour to the pier of _Yemish

Iskelesí_ (Pl. G, 4) at Stambul, at the foot of the terrace of the

Suleiman Mosque, and then passes under the Old Bridge (Pl. F, G, 4; p.

552) into the naval harbour. On the Stambul side it first calls at the

piers of _Jubali Kapu_ and _Aya Kapu_ (Pl. F, 3), the latter lying below

Selim’s Mosque (p. 553).

Next, on the same side, are the piers of _Phanar_ (Pl. E, 2), the Greek

quarter, where a terrible massacre took place in 1821, and _Balat_ (Pl.

D, 2), the largest Jewish quarter.

On the opposite bank, from the Old Bridge onwards, lie the dockyard

buildings. On the bay of _Kasím Pasha_ (calling-place of some of the

steamboats) is the _Ministry of Marine_ (Divan Haneh; Pl. G, 2, 3), with

its surrounding barracks, workshops, and docks. In front of it are

anchored men-of-war and guard-ships.

The steamer next touches at _Ters Haneh_ (Pl. E, 2), on the E. bank, at

the end of the dockyard, and at the Jewish quarter of _Haskiöi_ (Has

Keuï; Pl. E, 1); then, on the W. bank, at _Aivan Seraï_ (Pl. D, 1; p.

554), where we have a fine view of the N.E. end of the land-walls and

the beginning of the sea-wall on the Golden Horn; then, on the E. bank,

at _Kalijeh Oglu_, and on the W. bank at _Defterdar Iskelesí_ (Pl. C, 1)

and _Eyúb_ (see inset plans in Plan of City).

In the suburb of *=Eyúb=, a few minutes’ walk from the pier, is the

famous _Mosque of Eyúb_, where the ceremony of girding each new sultan

with the sword takes place. It was built of white marble by Mohammed

II., the Conqueror, in 1459, adjacent to the türbeh of Abu Eyúb Ensari,

the legendary standard-bearer of the prophet, whose tomb here was

revealed in a vision a few days after the conquest. The spot is so

revered by the Moslems that until now no Christian dared set foot even

in the outer court. Since the establishment of the new Turkish

government, however, visitors may enter the deeply impressive court and

even the mosque itself, but they should be careful not to remain

standing between the railings in the centre of the court and the gilded

windows on the wall-side.

From the mosque, up the hill-side to the N.E., extends the picturesque

_Cemetery_, with its venerable cypresses. A path ascends from the

mosque, past a monastery (_Tekkeh_) of the dancing dervishes (p. 543),

to the top, where we have a splendid *View of both banks of the Golden

Horn.

From Eyúb a smaller local steamer plies through the _Stambul Liman_,

the shallow N.W. arm of the Golden Horn, 1¼ M. long, to _Kiathaneh_,

or _Kiahat Haneh_; this trip, on Fridays or Sundays in spring, affords

an interesting picture of Turkish life. At Kiathaneh two streams fall

into the Golden Horn, the so-called =Sweet Waters of Europe= (the

Asiatic waters, see p. 558), or _Eaux Douces_. The eastmost is the

_Kiathaneh Suyu_, in the valley of which, about 1¼ M. up, is a château

of the sultan, the most popular holiday resort of the citizens of

Constantinople. In the meadows, under shady trees, are erected huts

and arbours, where music and amusements of all kinds are provided. The

Moslems enjoy themselves sedately here on Fridays; the Christians come

on Sundays; hither too the people of fashion ride or drive. Shortly

before sunset a whole flotilla of boats on the Golden Horn returns

home to the city.

d. Scutari.

STEAM FERRY BOATS from the _New Bridge_ (see p. 538) and _Beshiktash_

to Scutari. Those from the New Bridge to the minor stations _Salajak_,

near the Leander tower, and _Harem-Iskelesí_, below the Selimieh

Barracks (p. 536), are less frequent and are seldom used by

strangers.—CARRIAGES have the same tariff as in the city (p. 538).

Drive from the pier to the Chamlija Spring and back viâ the Great

Cemetery (about 2½ hrs.) 1½ mejidiehs (30 pias.).—HORSE to the

Bulgurlu about 1 mej.

The steamer leaves the Seraglio Point on the right and steers to the E.

to (¼ hr.) the chief landing-place at Scutari, which lies on the Asiatic

shore, in a bay to the N. of the promontory. To the right, off the end

of the promontory, is a flat islet on which rises the so-called

_Leander’s Tower_ (by the Turks named _Kiz Kulesí_, _i.e._ maiden’s

tower, from the legend that a sultan’s daughter was once kept here),

with a signalling station and lights.

=Scutari= (no European inns), Turk. _Üsküdar_, the ancient

_Chrysopolis_, the harbour of Chalcedon (p. 536), now a large suburb of

Constantinople, contains 90,000 inhab., comparatively few of whom are

Armenians and Greeks. Its fine old mosques, its crooked streets, and its

small timber houses give it a more Oriental character than Stambul.

Until a century ago Scutari was the terminus of the caravan-routes from

Asia Minor, by which the treasures of the East were brought to

Constantinople. It is still the starting-point of the sacred annual

Mecca caravan.

From the pier we follow the broad main street past the _Büyük Jami_

(‘Great Mosque’; 1547), on the left, and the _Yeni Valideh Jami_

(1707–10), on the right, beyond which a road to the right diverges to

the Dervishes’ Monastery and the Great Cemetery.

[Illustration: CONSTANTINOPLE]

The street, inclining to the left, next leads to the quarters of =Yeni

Mahalleh=, with an Armenian cemetery, and =Baglar Bashi=; then, past

villas, to the village of =Bulgurlukiöi=. Before the village is reached

a road to the left leads to (2 M. from the pier) the =Chamlija Spring=,

shaded by great plane-trees, a favourite Friday and Sunday resort like

the Sweet Waters (p. 556).

We may thence ascend (to the N., ¼ hr.) the =Great Bulgurlu= or _Büyük

Chamlija_ (879 ft.; small café, bargaining necessary), which, in the

forenoon especially, affords a superb *View of Constantinople, the

Bosporus, and the Sea of Marmora.

On the way back we turn to the left, skirting the Armenian cemetery, to

visit the *_Great Cemetery_ (Büyük Mezaristán), the largest Moslem

burial-ground in the East. The lower road through it leads to the N. to

the _Monastery of the Howling Dervishes_ (Rufaï Tekkeh; no admittance).

To the S. of the Great Cemetery lies _Haidar Pasha_ (p. 536), with a

large _Military Hospital_, where Florence Nightingale (1820–1910) first

devoted herself to her philanthropic work. Adjoining the Hospital is the

_British Cemetery_, containing a tall granite Obelisk in memory of the

British who fell in the Crimean war.

e. The Bosporus.

LOCAL STEAMERS (p. 538), with 17 stations on the European side and 12

on the Asiatic, never all touched at on the same voyage. To _Rumeli

Kavak_, the northmost station on the W. shore, in 2 hrs., 5 (in summer

6) steamers only. From any station it is easy to ferry to the opposite

shore (5–10 pias.).

The Thracian *=Bosporus= (‘ox-ford’, from the Greek myth that Io swam in

the shape of a cow from Asia to Europe), Turk. Kara _Denis Boghaz_ or

_Stambul Boghaz_ (Black Sea or Stambul Straits), which, like the

Dardanelles (p. 534), was formed by the subsidence of a river-valley in

the tertiary period (comp. p. xxxiv), connects the Sea of Marmora with

the Black Sea. Length 20 M., breadth about 2 M., average depth 89 ft.

(greatest about 395 ft.). A surface-stream, quickened by the prevailing

N.E. winds, and consisting of the fresher water of the Black Sea, fed by

its copious rivers, constantly pours through the straits towards the

Mediterranean, while the saltier and heavier water of the latter flows

in the opposite direction in a strong under-current into the Black Sea.

The steep coast-hills of the N. part, as far as Rumeli Kavak, consist of

eruptive rock, basalt, dolerite, and trachyte; in the S. part the

prevailing formations are Devonian, clay-slate, greywacke, quarzite, and

limestone. The peninsula of Stambul is of the miocene formation.

A trip on the Bosporus affords a highly picturesque and varied panorama

of the scenery on its banks, and on the way back we suddenly obtain a

striking view of the great city and its suburbs. The more important

places only are named below. (L. signifies landing-place or pier.)

WEST BANK. │ EAST BANK.

│

_Galata Quay_ and _Top Haneh_, see │_Leander’s Tower_ and _Scutari_,

pp. 543, 544. │see p. 556.

│

_Dolma Bagcheh_ (p. 544), with the │

_Seraï_ of that name, built by │

Abdul Mejid in 1850–5 in the │

overladen ‘Turkish Renaissance’ │

style, now the residence of │

Mohammed V.; the façade on the │

Bosporus is over 700 yds. long; in │

the lofty central building is the │

huge throne-room. │

│

Beyond _Beshiktash_ (p. 544; L.) │_Kuskunjuk_ (L.), a Jewish village,

are the ruins of the _Chiragan │separated from Scutari by a low

Seraï_, a similar palace, which was│hill, was almost entirely destroyed

burnt down in 1910. │by a disastrous fire in Feb. 1911.

│

At _Ortakiöi_ (L.), a suburb with │_Beylerbey_ (L.). The _Beylerbey

beautiful gardens and a pretty │Seraï_, built by Abdul Aziz in

mosque (1870), the city is seen │1865, is the most tasteful sultan’s

astern for the last time. │palace on the Bosporus.

│

We round a headland and next come │_Chengelkiöi_ (L.) and _Vanikiöi_

to the villages of _Kuru Cheshmeh_ │(L.), where we lose sight of

(L.) and _Arnautkiöi_ (L.).The │Stambul. We next pass _Top Dagh_

latter lies on the _Akinti Burnu_, │(427 ft.; ‘cannon-hill’), famed for

a headland swept by a strong │its view of the whole of the

current. │Bosporus. _Kandili_ (L.) lies on a

│headland opposite the bay of Bebek.

│

_Bebek_ (L.), on a beautiful bay, │

with villas (yali) of wealthy │

Turks, an English and American │

summer resort. On the hill to the │

N. is the _Robert College_, an │

American institution founded in │

1863. │

│

│Between Kandili and Anatoli Hissar

│(see below) opens the _Valley of

│the Sweet Waters of Asia_, at the

│mouth of the Büyük (great) and

│Küchük (little) Gök Su, a favourite

│Friday resort of

│Moslem-excursionists in summer.

│

Above the cypresses of an old │_Anatoli Hissar_ (L.; ‘Asiatic

cemetery rise the picturesque │Castle’), or _Güzel Hissar_

towers and walls of _Rumelí Hissar_│(‘beautiful castle’), the

(L.; ‘European castle’), built by │picturesque castle by the sea,

Mohammed II. in 1452, shortly │which gives its name to the

before the siege of Constantinople │village, was erected by Bayazid I.

(p. 542), to command the narrowest │in 1393 as an outwork against

part of the Bosporus (722 yds. │Byzantium.

only). Here, too, the current │

(_sheïtan akintisi_, ‘Satan’s │

stream’) is at its strongest. │

│

Beyond _Emirgian_ (L.) come the │_Kanlija_ (L.), on a small headland

palaces built by Ismaîl, khedive of│(beacon).

Egypt (d. 1895; p. 444). │

│

_Stenia_ (L.), in a deep and │_Chibukli_, on the _Bay of Beïkos_,

sheltered bay, and _Yenikiöi_ (L.; │where the British and French fleets

Greek _Neochori_), both inhabited │met for the Crimean war. At the

chiefly by Greeks and Armenians. At│head of the bay, beyond _Pasha

the N. end of the headland are the │Bagcheh_ (L.) lies =Beïkos=,

summer seats of the American and │usually the northmost steamboat

Austrian ambassadors. │station.

│

│From Beïkos we may ascend the

│=Giant’s Mt.= or =Yusha Dagh= (640

│ft.; ‘Mt. Joshua’), an important

│landmark for ships coming from the

│Black Sea. The road to it (1 hr.;

│carr. ½ mej.) ascends past the

│palace of Mohammed Ali Pasha and

│through the grassy, well-wooded,

│and well-watered valley of _Hunkiar

│Iskelesí_, once a favourite country

│seat of the Byzantine emperors and

│the sultans. On the top are a

│mosque, the ‘tomb of the giant

│Joshua’, and a small café. *View

│over the whole Bosporus, but

│Constantinople is hidden.

│

=Therapia= (L.; Summer Palace Hot.;│

Hôt. Tokatlian, etc.; pop. 5000), a│

large and handsome village, on a │

small bay, with cafés by the sea │

and terraced gardens. On the quay, │

to the N. of the bay, are the │

summer residences of the British │

(lofty white building), French, and│

Italian ambassadors; on the N. side│

of the bay is that of the German │

ambassador. │

│

│The steamers plying beyond Beïkos

│proceed thence straight across the

│Bosporus to _Yenikiöi_ (see above)

│on the European shore, where

│corresponding with them there are

│generally steamboats plying viâ

│Therapia (see above) to _Mezar

│Burnu_ (see below) and to _Rumelí

│Kavak_ (p. 560). Thence they go on

│to the last station on the Asiatic

│shore—

│

Near the small cape _Kiretsh │

Burnu_, with its battery and │

beacon, the Black Sea becomes │

visible in the distance. │

│

=Büyükdereh= (L.; Hôt. Bellevue; │

Hôt. d’Europe; Hôt. Platane, etc.; │

pop. 6000) is one of the most │

frequented summer resorts of the │

wealthy Europeans of │

Constantinople, with handsome │

houses in the N. part. The _Bay of │

Büyükdereh_ (‘great valley’) forms │

the broadest part of the Bosporus │

(2 M.). │

│

At the N. end of the bay are _Mezar│

Burnu_ (L.), a small village, and │

_Yeni Mahalleh_, at the mouth of │

the ‘rose valley’, the terminus of │

most of the steamers. │

│

Five or six boats only go on, │=Anatoli Kavak=, a genuine Turkish

passing the ruinous fort _Telli │village, lying on the _Majar Bay_

Tabia_ and the _Dikili Cliffs_, to │between two strongly fortified

=Rumelí Kavak=, a village near a │headlands. On the N. headland rises

fortress built by Murad IV. in 1628│also the picturesque ruin of the

and restored in 1890. The walls of │Byzantine castle of _Yoros Kalesí_,

the ruined Byzantine castle of │called the _Genoese Castle_ since

_Imros Kalesí_, on a hill to the │the 14th century. In ancient times

N., once extending down to the sea,│the headland and the strait, one of

were prolonged by moles, like those│the narrowest parts of the

of Yoros Kalesí opposite, so that a│Bosporus, were named _Hieron_

chain could be carried across. │(sanctuary) after the altar of the

│twelve gods, where Jason is said

│once to have sacrificed, and after

│a temple of Zeus Urios, the

│dispenser of favourable winds.

│

At the N. end of the Bosporus the │

banks, which bristle with forts and│

batteries, consist of almost │

perpendicular basaltic rock, above │

which runs a hill-path. Between │

Rumelí Kavak and the headland │

_Karibjeh Kalesí_ the little bay of│

_Büyük Liman_ offers the first │

refuge to vessels of slight draught│

coming from the N. │

│

│In the Majar Bay vessels coming

│from the Black Sea have to show

│their papers before entering the

│Bosporus. Then comes _Kechili Bay_,

│bounded on the N. by the cape _Fil

│Burnu_, and defended by a fort, as

│is also the _Poiras Burnu_, a

│little farther to the N.E.

│

The Bosporus now expands at its N. │Next, on the rocky coast, are the

entrance to 2¾ M., near =Rumelí │village and beyond it the low cape

Fanar=, a Greek village │of =Anatoli Fanar=, with the

(_Fenerkiöi_ or _Fanaraki_), with a│Anatolian lighthouse and a fort

lighthouse and a strong fortress on│rising above it.

the rock to the N. of the bay. To │

the E. rise a number of dark │

basaltic cliffs, the _Cyanean │

Islands_ or _Symplegades_ (_i.e._ │

the rocks which, according to the │

ancient tradition, ‘clash │

together’), between which Jason had│

to pass on the Argonautic │

expedition. │

│

│Farther on are _Kabakos Bay_, in

│the basaltic rocks of which nestle

│countless sea-fowl, and, at the N.

│mouth of the Bosporus, the abrupt

│_Yum Burnu_, with a battery and

│rescue-station for the shipwrecked.