ARRIVAL BY SEA. Steamers arriving from Europe (comp. R. 1) usually
anchor in the Tagus (Tejo) near the custom-house (Alfándega; Pl. F, G,
5). Landing or embarking by boat (_bote_) ca. 500 rs., and 100–200 rs.
for each trunk or package, including transport to the custom-house
(bargaining necessary). Steamers from the South (Madeira and Brazil),
cast anchor opposite the quarantine station (Posto Maritimo de
Desinfecção; Pl. B, 5); passengers are landed in tenders (1600 rs.);
for conveyance of luggage to the custom-house each piece 200 rs. As
soiled linen is sometimes asked for, it should be packed in a separate
bundle and given up in exchange for a metal token. A declaration has
to be filled up at the custom-house (100 rs.); tobacco and unused
articles only are dutiable. In the case of the larger liners the
through-passengers (_passageiros em transito_) are conveyed without
luggage to land, and thence back, by tender; the place and time of
return should be ascertained. Special tenders are provided for the
landing of travellers going no farther, and for their luggage. As a
rule, fully half a day is spent in landing and other formalities prior
to settling down in a hotel. Hotel-employés are not permitted to
convey passengers from the steamers. As the custom-house is closed at
sunset, passengers arriving by steamer in the evening must stay on
board till next morning.
Footnote 4:
MONEY. The monetary unit in Portugal is the _real_ (equal to 0.549
of a centime, or roughly ¹⁄₂₀ of a penny or ⅒ of a cent), which is
used, however, in multiples (_reis_) only. The copper coins are 5
rs., 10 rs., and 20 rs. (_vintem_, pl. _vintens_). In nickel there
are pieces of 50 and 100 rs. (_tostão_, pl. _tostões_). In silver
there are coins of 200, 500 (_corõa_), and 1000 rs. (_um milreis_,
worth about 5 fr. or 4_s._ 2_d._ or $1). Gold is never met with in
ordinary traffic. The banknotes are for 5000 rs., 10,000 rs., and
20,000 rs. A sum of 1000 milreis is called _um conto da reis_.—Small
amounts are often reckoned in _tostões_ and _vintens_.
The =Central Railway Station= (_Estação Central_ or _Lisboa Rocio_,
Pl. F, 3; no restaurant), in the Rua Magalhães Lima, a little to the
N.W. of the Rocio (p. 11), is the station for all the through-trains
and expresses to Paris, Madrid, etc. Lisbon time is 37 min. behind
Greenwich time, and 1 hr. 36 min. slower than mid-European.—Office of
the _International Sleeping Carriage Co._ (Companhia Internacional dos
Wagons-Lits dos Grandes Expressos Europeus) in the Avenida Palace
Hotel (see below).
[Illustration: LISBOA]
=Hotels= (advisable to engage rooms beforehand). *AVENIDA PALACE HOTEL
(Pl. a; F, 3), adjoining the Central Station, pens. from 3000 rs.
upwards; *HOT. BRAGANÇA (Pl b; E, 5), Rua Victor Cordon, in a high
site, R. from 1200 rs., B. 350, déj. 800, D. 1100 rs.—HOT. DE
INGLATERRA (Pl. i; F, 3), Praça dos Restauradores 45, well spoken of;
HOT. CENTRAL (Pl. c; E, 5), in the lower town, commercial, déj. 800,
D. 1000, pens. from 2600 rs.; HÔT. DE L’EUROPE, Rua do Carmo 16 (Pl.
F, 4), pens. from 2000 rs.—HÔT. DURAND (Pl. k; E, 4), Rua das Flores
71, an English family hotel in a quiet situation, pens. 2400–3000
rs.—AVENIDA HOTEL (Pl. h; F, 2), Avenida da Liberdade 67, good
second-class house.
=Cafés-Restaurants.= *_Tavares_, Rua do Mundo 37 (Pl. E, F, 3), D. 800
and 1000 rs.; _Impérial_, Rua Magalhães Lima 124, opposite the Avenida
Palace Hotel, also superior, D. 700 rs.; _Suisso_, Largo de Camões 8,
opposite the E. side of the Central Station.—BEER. _Cervejaria
Jansen_, entr. near the Hot. Bragança (see above; side-entrance Rua do
Alecrim 30); _Cervejaria Trindade_, Rua da Trindade 110.
=Post and Telegraph Office= (_Correio e Telegrapho_; Pl. F, 5) in the
Praça do Commercio, corner of Rua do Arsenal, in which last is the
entrance to the poste-restante office. Also numerous branch-offices
(_estações auxiliares_). Postage of letters (_cartas_) for Portugal
and Spain 20 rs.; post-cards (_bilhete postal_) 10 rs.; for abroad
(_para o estrangeiro_) 50 and 20 rs. respectively; registration-fee
(_registado_) 50 rs.
=Cabs= (_Trens de Praça_) in the principal squares, elegant vehicles
with two horses for 2 or 4 pers., but the tariff is high. The hirer
should ask the driver (_cocheiro_) for a ticket or token (_senha_).
The tariff is called _tabella_. ‘Impedido’ means engaged.
│ In the old town │ To the suburbs
─────────────────────────┼─────────┬─────────┼─────────┬─────────
│1–2 pers.│3–4 pers.│1–2 pers.│3–4 pers.
Per drive (_por corrida_)│ 400 rs.│ 500 rs.│ 1000 rs.│ 1200 rs.
Per hour (_ás horas_) │ 600 „│ 700 „│ 600 „│ 700 „
Two hours │ 1200 „│ 1400 „│ 1200 „│ 1400 „
Three hours │ 1500 „│ 1800 „│ 1500 „│ 1800 „
Four hours │ 1800 „│ 2200 „│ 1800 „│ 2200 „
The city boundary is the Estrada da Circumvallação (p. 9), and for the
W. suburbs Algés (beyond Belem). After the first hour the time is
reckoned by ¼ hours. If the cab is dismissed outside the town the
driver is entitled to a return-fare. At night (1 a.m. till sunrise)
the fares are doubled. Luggage up to 30 kilos (66 lbs.) free, up to 50
kilos (110 lbs.) 200 rs., over 50 kilos 400 rs.
TAXIMETER CABS (_Trens com Taximeter_) are rather cheaper.—MOTOR
TAXIMETERS (_Automovies da Praça_), stand in the Rocio (Pl. F, 3, 4),
comp. the tariff written in French.
=Lifts and Cable Tramways= (_Ascensores_ or _Elevadores_), mostly
every 3 min., from 8 a.m. to 1 a.m. The fare up is called _subida_,
down _descida_, return _ida e volta_.
1. From the Rua da Santa Justa (Pl. F, 4; near the Rua Aurea) to the
Largo do Carmo (Pl. F, 4). Fare up 20, down 10, return 20 rs.
2. From the Calçada da Gloria (Pl. F, 3; W. side of the Avenida da
Liberdade) to the Alameda de São Pedro de Alcántara (Pl. E, F, 3), 20
rs.
3. From the Praça de Camões (Pl. E, 4) to São Bento (Pl. D, 3) and the
Largo da Estrella (Pl. C, 2, 3), 50 rs.
4. From the Rua da Palma (near the Theatro Apollo; Pl. G, 3) to the
Largo da Graça (Pl. H, 3, 4); up 10, down 20 rs.
5. From the Calçada da Lavra (Pl. F, 3) to the Travessa do Thorel (Pl.
F, 2, 3), near the S. end of the Campo dos Martyres da Patria, 20 rs.
=Tramways= (_Carris de Ferro_) are to be preferred to cabs owing to
the hilly nature of the town and the badly paved streets. The starting
point of the tramway-lines important to the traveller is the Rocio
(Pl. F, 3, 4); cars proceeding hence to the S. viâ the Rua Augusta
return viâ the Rua Aurea. To the W. cars follow the narrow Rua do
Arsenal to the Largo do Corpo Santo (Pl. E, 5), where the line forks
into an outer line skirting the quay, and an inner line (comp. the
Plan); on the latter the ‘Santo Amaro Pampueha’ car alone passes the
museum (p. 14). On both lines the ‘Belem’, ‘Algés’, or ‘Dafundo’ cars
proceed to Belem (p. 14).—The terminus of the route is indicated on
the boards at either end of the cars. On the return-journey, or, in
the case of circular tramways, in the reverse direction, cars have
different name-boards (given below in brackets). Boards in the streets
bearing the word ‘_paragem_’ indicate stopping-places (beckoning
necessary).—Fare, within the first zone, 30 rs.; for every addit. zone
10 rs. extra.—The three following circular lines are of special
importance.
1. ‘RIO DE JANEIRO’ CAR [‘ROCIO’]: _Rocio-Avenida da Liberdade_ (Pl.
F, E, 3–1; p. 11) - Rua Alexandre Herculano (Pl. E, 1) - Travessa São
Mamede (Pl. E, 2) - Rua da Escola Polytechnica (Pl. E, 2) - _Jardim
Botanico_ (p. 11) - Praça do Rio de Janeiro (Pl. E, 2, 3) - _Alameda
de São Pedro de Alcántara_ (Pl. E, F, 3; p. 11) - Rua do Mundo (Pl. E,
F, 3, 4) - Rua do Alecrim (Pl. E, 4, 5) - Rua do Arsenal (Pl. E, F, 5)
- Rua Aurea (Pl. F, 5, 4) - Rocio. Fare all the way (_Circulação
completa_) 50 rs.
2. ‘RUA GOMES FREIRE’ CAR [‘GRAÇA’]: _Rocio_ - Rua Augusta (Pl. F, 4)
- Rua da Conceição (Pl. F, 5) - _Sé_ (Pl. G, 5; p. 13) - Largo do
Contador Mór (Pl. G, 4; comp. p. 13) - _São Vicente de Fora_ (Pl. H,
4; p. 13) - Rua da Graça (Pl. H, 3) - Largo dos Quatro Caminhos (Pl.
H, 3), returning by the same route as far as the Rua da Conceição (see
above), thence viâ Rua Aurea, Rocio, Rua da Palma, Rua de São Lazaro
(Pl. G, 3, 2), Rua Gomes Freire (Pl. G, 2, 1), Rua Conde de Redondo
(Pl. F, 1), and the _Avenida_ (p. 11) to the Rocio. Fare 80 rs.
3. ‘LARGO DAS DUAS EGREJAS’ CAR [‘ESTRELLA’]: Upper end of _Rua
Garrett_ (Pl. E, F, 4) - Rua do Alecrim (Pl. E, 4, 5) - Rua Vinte e
Quatro de Julho (Pl. E, D, 5, 4) - Largo de Santos (Pl. C, 4) - Rua de
São Domingos (Pl. C, 4, 3) - Rua de Buenos Ayres (Pl C, 3) - _Largo da
Estrella_ (Pl. C, 3, 2) - Rua Domingos Sequeira (Pl. C, 2) - Rua
Ferreira Borges (Pl. C, 2, 1) - Rua do Campo de Ourique (Pl. C, 1) -
Rua São João dos Bem Casados (Pl. C, D, 1) - Rua das Amoreiras (Pl. D,
1) - Largo do Rato (Pl. D, 1) - Rua da Escola Polytechnica (Pl. D, E,
2, 3) - _Jardim Botanico_ (p. 11) - _Alameda de São Pedro de
Alcántara_ (p. 11) - Rua do Mundo (Pl. E, F, 3, 4) - Rua Garrett.
=Steamers= to and from London, Liverpool, Southampton, S. America,
etc. (comp. pp. xviii-xx and R. 1). Also the _Messageries Maritimes_
from Bordeaux to Lisbon; the _Empreza Nacional de Navegação_ for
Madeira, and the _Empreza Insulana de Navegação_ for the Azores (comp.
also R. 3). Agent for the Rotterdam Lloyd, German East African,
Hamburg-American, and Hamburg & S. American Lines, _E. George_ (p. 9);
for the Compañía Trasatlántica, _H. Burnay & Co._
=Banks.= _London & Brazilian_, Rua do Commercio 96; _Crédit
Franco-Portugais_, Rua Augusta 61; _Banco de Portugal_, Rua Aurea
(entr. Rua do Commercio 148); _Weinstein & Co._, Rua do Commercio 49
(1st floor).
=Theatres= (from end of Oct. to March; boxes are called _camarotes_,
stalls _cadeiras_, the pit _platéa géral_). _Theatro de São Carlos_
(Pl. F, 4), Largo de São Carlos, for Italian operas and ballet;
_Theatro da Republica_ (Pl. E, F, 4, 5), Rua Antonio Maria Cardoso,
for Spanish, Italian, or French plays and operettas; _Nacional_ (Pl.
F, 3), Praça de Dom Pedro, for Portuguese plays; also several places
for variety entertainments.
=Bull Ring= (_Praça de Touros_; Pl. G, 1), reached from the Rocio by
the ‘Campo Pequeno’ or ‘Lumiar’ tramway-cars; parties should charter
cabs in good time (return-fare ca. 3000 rs.). Bull-fights, less cruel
than in Spain, Sun. and holidays (Easter to the end of June); tickets
at Praça dos Restauradores 18.
=British Minister=, _Hon. Sir Francis H. Villiers_, Rua São Francisco
de Borja 63 (Pl. B, 4).—=U. S. Minister=, _Henry T. Gage_, Largo do
Carino 18 (Pl. P, 4).
=Consuls.= British, _P. A. Somers Cocks_, Travessa da Ribeira Nova 26;
vice-consul, _H. E. Jones_.—U. S. Consul-General, _Louis H. Aymé_,
Avenida da Liberdade 196 (Pl. F, 1); vice-consul, _H. E.
Bradford_.—LLOYD’S AGENTS, _Rawes & Co._, Rua do Commercio 31 (Pl. F,
5).
=Goods Agent.= _E. George_, Rua da Prata 8 (Pl. F, 5).—TOURIST AGENTS,
_Thos. Cook & Son_, Rua Aurea 52 (Pl. F, 5).
=Churches.= _English_ (_St. George’s_), with cemetery (Pl. C, 2), Rua
da Estrella; services at 11 & 7; chaplain, _Rev. E. P. Lewis, D.
D._—_Presbyterian_ (Pl. B, 4), Rua da Arriaga 13; services at 11 &
7.30; minister, _Rev. R. M. Lithgow_.
=Club.= _Royal British Club_, Rua de São Francisco de Paula 1 (Pl. B,
4), also for temporary members.
=Sights.= THE CHURCHES, few of which are interesting, are open from 7
to 10 a.m., the Cathedral till 1 p.m.
_Museu d’Artilheria_ (p. 14), on week-days 10–3, free.
_Museu Nacional das Bellas Artes_ (p. 14), Sun., Thurs., and holidays,
11–4, free; on other days 12–2, by leave of the director obtained
through the attendant. When the main door is closed the entrance is to
the left, through the gateway of the barracks and the garden.
_Museu Nacional dos Coches_ (p. 14), daily, exc. Frid., 12–5, free.
Visitors having only a few hours at their disposal on land should
avail themselves of one of the circular tramway-lines (p. 7) to obtain
a general survey of the town. The _Graça Church_ (p. 13; *View) should
be visited in the morning (‘Graça’ tramway); in the afternoon,
_Alameda de São Pedro de Alcántara_ (p. 11) or _Estrella Church_ (p.
12). The trip to _Belem_ (p. 14) should on no account be omitted.
TWO DAYS. 1st. Forenoon: _Praça do Commercio_ and _Rocio_ (pp. 10,
11); _Avenida da Liberdade_ (p. 11); *_Alameda de São Pedro de
Alcántara_ (p. 11); *_Botanic Garden_ (p. 11); _Estrella Church_ (p.
12; *View). Afternoon: _Belem_ (p. 14).—2nd. Excursion to *_Cintra_
(p. 15), requiring at least half a day.—Bull-fights, see p. 8.
_Lisbon_, Portuguese _Lisbóa_, the capital of the new republic of
Portugal (comp. p. 10), the see of an archbishop, a fortress, and also
an important commercial city, with 357,700 inhab., lies in 38° 42′ N.
lat. and 9° 11′ W. long., on the broad _Bay of the Tagus_, which forms
an excellent harbour just above the comparatively narrow (1–2 M.) mouth
of the river (see p. xxix). The town rises in picturesque terraces,
affording many charming views, while the luxuriance of its public
gardens is almost unrivalled in Europe. Lisbon is certainly a very
beautiful city, and its ardent admirers have compared it even with
Naples and Constantinople.
The town, which is girdled by the _Estrada da Circumvallação_, a road 5
M. long, consists of several quarters. On the E. lies the old town, or
_Lisboa Oriental_, on the slope of the _Collina do Castello_. On the low
ground between the old town and the new is the _Cidade Baixa_, which has
sprung up since the earthquake of 1755. To the W. is _Lisboa
Occidental_, the modern quarter. Along the Tagus extend quays and docks,
constructed in 1887, and, after a serious collapse, restored in
1894–1905. The harbour is entered by 5000 vessels annually, one-third of
them being under the British flag, one-tenth under the French, and one
tenth under the German. The Portuguese vessels are chiefly engaged in
trading with the country’s African colonies and with S. America.
The ancient name of Lisbon was _Ulisipo_ or _Olisipo_, which led early
Greek travellers and scholars to connect the place, but erroneously,
with the legends of Ulysses. Under the Romans, thanks to its splendid
harbour, it ranked as the second city in Lusitania, and alternately
with Mérida, the capital, was frequently the residence of the Roman
governors. From 407 to 585 it was occupied by the Alans, and from 585
to 715 by the Visigoths, and after the battle of Veger de la Frontera
(711) it fell into the hands of the Moors, who called it _Aloshbuna_
or _Lishbuna_. In 1147 it was retaken by king _Affonso Henriques_,
aided by an army of Crusaders. The bulk of these were Englishmen; and
thus the siege of Lisbon is doubly interesting as it was ‘the first
instance of the close connection between the two nations (England and
Portugal) which has lasted down to the present century’ (H. M.
Stephens).
The importance of Lisbon began under _Affonso III._ (1248–79), who
transferred the royal residence hither from Coimbra (1260). The great
discoveries made by the Portuguese at the end of the 15th cent., and
the conquest of India by _Francisco d’Almeida_ (d. 1510) and _Affonso
de Albuquerque_ (d. 1515), greatly benefited the capital, which soon
became the richest town in Europe, and recovered rapidly even from the
effects of the earthquakes of 1531 and 1575. But the sixty years of
Spanish dominion (1580–1640), the defeats of the Spanish and
Portuguese fleets in the war with Holland, and the loss of India were
severe trials. The earthquake of 1755 laid half the city in ruins. The
beginning of the 19th cent. brought the French invasion, the removal
of the royal residence to Rio de Janeiro, the Peninsular War, the loss
of Brazil, and the utter decadence of Lisbon. Since the period of
revolutions, and since the partial bankruptcy of the country in 1892,
Lisbon has again risen from a state of decay to be a great and
handsome city, thanks largely to the initiative of the German _Prince
Ferdinand of Saxe-Coburg-Kohary_, consort of _Queen Maria II._, and to
his sons, _Pedro V._ (1853–61) and _Luis I._ (1861–89). Party strife
in the next reign led to the dictatorship of the minister _João
Franco_, and on 1st Feb. 1908 Lisbon witnessed the assassination of
_Carlos I._ and the crown-prince _Luis Philippe_ (comp. p. 14).
Carlos’s second son then ascended the throne as _Manuel II._ He had,
however, only reigned two years when the establishment of the Republic
forced him to go into exile (5th Oct., 1910). President of the
provisional government _Theophilo Braga_. The republican colours are
green and red.
a. Cidade Baixa, Lisboa Occidental and Oriental.
Most of the public buildings in Lisbon, erected almost exclusively after
the earthquake of 1755, are situated in the =Praça do Commercio= (Pl. F,
5). In the centre of the square rises an _Equestrian Statue of Joseph
I._ (1750–77); on the S. side is the _Caes das Columnas_, a quay
affording a superb view of the bay of the Tagus, with its busy shipping,
and of the S. bank (Outra Banda), with the castle-hill of Palmella in
the distance.
To the N. of this square begins the rectangularly planned =Cidade Baixa=
(‘lower city’), once a bay of the Tagus, the three chief streets of
which, running to the N., are the Rua Augusta, spanned by a triumphal
arch, the Rua d’Ouro or Aurea (to the left), and the Rua da Prata (to
the right). These streets afford interesting glimpses of the towering
masses of the houses of Lisboa Occidental (to the left), with the Carmo
church, and of Lisboa Oriental (to the right), with the cathedral and
the castle of St. George. At the N. end of the Rua Augusta and the Rua
Aurea lies the—
PRAÇA DE DOM PEDRO QUARTO (Pl. F, 3, 4), commonly called =O Rocío=, one
of the chief tramway stations (p. 7). Owing to the peculiar wavy pattern
of its mosaic pavement the Rocio has received from the British sailors
the nickname ‘Roly-poly Square’. The square is adorned with two bronze
fountains and a marble column bearing a bronze _Statue of Pedro IV._ (d.
1834; emperor of Brazil, 1826–31). Above the S.W. corner of the square
rises on massive substructures the picturesque ruined church of _Igreja
do Carmo_, destroyed by the earthquake of 1755. We may reach it by the
‘ascensor’ No. 1 (p. 7). On the N. side rises the _Theatro Nacional_ (p.
8). The _Market_ in the adjacent Praça da Figueira (Pl. F, 4), to the
E., deserves a visit in the early morning.
From the W. side of the theatre we proceed past the _Central Station_
(p. 6) to the *=Avenida da Liberdade= (Pl. F, E, 3–1), a magnificent
promenade, 100 yds. wide and more than ½ M. long, with luxuriant
vegetation, especially palms, and affording charming views. It is most
frequented on Sundays and holidays towards evening, when the fashionable
world may be seen driving and riding. At the beginning of the Avenida is
the Praça dos Restauradores, with the _Monumento dos Restauradores de
Portugal_, recalling the revolt of 1640, when the yoke of the Spanish
‘Intrusos’ was shaken off.
To the left, at the beginning of the Avenida Promenade, is the steep
Calçada da Gloria, through which a funicular tramway (No. 2; p. 7)
ascends to the *=Alameda de São Pedro de Alcántara= (Pl. E, F, 3), where
we enjoy a magnificent view of the bay, to the S., and of Lisboa
Oriental, with St. George’s Castle and the churches of Graça and do
Monte (p. 13), to the E. Far below lie the Avenida da Liberdade, the
Central Station, the Rocio, and the Baixa.
From the S. angle of the gardens the Rua do Mundo (Pl. E, F, 3, 4)
descends to the Largo da Misericordia, and past the Jesuit church of
_São Roque_, a sumptuous late-Renaissance edifice by Fil. Terzi, an
Italian architect (1566), to the Praça de Luis de Camões (p. 12). We
proceed, however, to the N.W. of the Alameda and follow the Rua de Dom
Pedro Quinto to the—
PRAÇA DO RIO DE JANEIRO (Pl. E, 2, 3), with a fountain and attractive
pleasure-grounds, occupying the highest site in =Lisboa Occidental=.
From the W. angle of the grounds we obtain a fine view of the Estrella
church (p. 12) and the Tagus.
Proceeding in the same direction we next follow the _Rua da Escola
Polytechnica_ to the POLYTECHNIC SCHOOL (Pl. E, 2), which comprises an
interesting _Natural History Museum_ (entrance on the N.W. side), an
_Observatory_, and a _Meteorological Station_. To the Polytechnic
belongs also the—
*=Botanic Garden= (Pl. E, 2; open to the public), founded in 1875, and
for luxuriance of vegetation the finest in Europe. The lower part of the
garden contains a magnificent avenue of palms and numerous southern
plants. It is reached by a road from the S.E. angle of the Polytechnic,
and there is a side-entrance in the Rua Nova da Alegria. In the upper
part are the _Estufas_ or greenhouses.
We descend to a lower exit of the garden opening into the Avenida, cross
the latter and ascend by the Ascensor da Lavra (p. 7) to the E. town.
From the _Campo dos Martyres da Patria_ (Pl. F, G, 2), the terminus of
the funicular, the tramway ‘Santo André’ (infrequent service), or the
circular line ‘Graça’ below its E. side, lead to the Rua da Palma
(funicular No. 4, p. 7). Thereafter through Lisboa Oriental, see below.
We may travel also by the ‘Graça’ tramway (in returning called ‘Rua
Gomes Freire’) in the reverse direction, starting from the Sé
Patriarchal and proceeding to the Nossa Senhora da Graça church on the
way out, and descend by the funicular.
From the Botanic Garden the ‘Estrella’ tramway brings us viâ the LARGO
DO RATO (Pl. D, 1) to the _Aqueducto das Aguas Livres_, constructed in
1729–49. It leads us farther to _Buenos Ayres_, the high-lying W.
quarter of the city, to the vicinity of the cemeteries, and to the
_Jardim da Estrella_ (Pl. C, 2).
The =Estrella Church= (Pl. C, 3), officially known as the _Basilica do
Santissimo Coração de Jesús_, was built in 1779–96. It is crowned with a
lofty dome over the crossing, and its interior is sumptuously fitted up.
The *ASCENT OF THE DOME (entrance by 5th door on the right; fee 100
rs.) amply repays the fatigue. The stairs in the N.W. tower ascend
first to the flat roof of the church, where we already have a fine
view. We then pass through the double lining of the dome into a
gallery surrounding its interior. A ladder finally leads to the
_Lantern_, the view from which (best in the afternoon) is the most
extensive in Lisbon and includes the whole of the city, the S. bank of
the estuary, and the ocean.
The Jardim da Estrella is flanked on the W. by the Rua da Estrella which
ascends to the =English Cemetery= (_Cemiterio dos Inglezes_; Pl. C, 2;
visitors ring; fee 50–100 rs.), laid out in 1717, the oldest Protestant
burial-ground in Portugal. It contains the grave of _Henry Fielding_
(1707–54), author of the immortal ‘Tom Jones’. Here too is the _English
Church_ (p. 9).
To return from this point we take the funicular No. 3 (p. 7), past the
_Palacio das Côrtes_ (Pl. D, 3; Chamber of Deputies), to the PRAÇA DE
LUIS DE CAMÕES (Pl. E, 4; pron. Kamŏengsh), which is embellished with a
monument of the famous poet _Camões_ (1524–80), the author of the
Lusiads, a great national epic celebrating the noble deeds of his
countrymen.
From the Praça de Camões we return through the RUA GARRETT and the Rua
do Carmo (Pl. F, 4), the busiest streets in the town, with the best
shops, to the Rocio (p. 11).
* * * * *
Time permitting, we may now pay a short visit to =Lisboa Oriental=,
which is best reached by the funicular line No. 4 (p. 7). From the
terminus in the Largo da Graça (Pl. H, 3, 4) we pass round the old Graça
monastery (now barracks) to the church of—
NOSSA SENHORA DA GRAÇA (Pl. G, H, 3, 4; 262 ft.), situated on a hill
which affords a fine view of Lisboa Occidental and the lower town, while
the harbour is concealed by St. George’s Castle (see below).
We now return to the barracks just mentioned and enter the Rua da Graça
to the N., whence the Travessa do Monte leads immediately to the left to
the (5 min.) chapel of NOSSA SENHORA DO MONTE (Pl. G, H, 3; 328 ft.).
The extensive *View from this point embraces the greater part of Lisbon,
the harbour, the S. bank, and the region to the N.E. as far as Santarém.
From the Rua da Graça the circular tramway ‘Rua Gomes Freire’ descends
to the old Augustinian monastery of =São Vicente de Fóra= (Pl. H, 4),
now the seat of the Patriarch of Lisbon. The church, a late-Renaissance
building of 1582, lost its dome in the earthquake of 1755. The cloisters
contain the _Pantheon Real_, the burial-place of the Portuguese monarchs
of the House of Braganza from the time of John IV. (d. 1656) onwards.
We take the same circular tramway-line as far as the Largo do Contador
Mór (Pl. G, 4). Thence we walk through the Travessa do Funil to the Rua
do Chão de Feira, and through the St. George’s Gateway to the CASTELLO
DE SÃO JORGE (Pl. G, 4), an ancient Moorish stronghold and once a royal
residence, but now used as barracks and a military prison, where we
apply at the guard-house for leave to see the fine view from the S.
Terrace. If so disposed we may descend to the cathedral, which stands
about halfway up the castle-hill and is known as the—
=Sé Patriarchal= (Pl. G, 5), the oldest church in Lisbon, founded in
1150, but rebuilt in the Gothic style in the 14th cent., and almost
entirely modernized after the earthquake of 1755. From the cathedral the
Rua da Conceição brings us back to the lower town.
b. The Streets on the Tagus. Belem.
In the Rua da Alfándega, a few paces to the E. of the Praça do Commercio
(p. 10), rises the church of—
=Nossa Senhora da Conceição Velha= (Pl. ‘C.V.’; G, 5). The *Façade, in
the richest ‘Emmanuel style’ (see p. 14), is a relic of the church of
_Nossa Senhora da Misericordia_, which was destroyed by the earthquake
of 1755. A little farther on, between Nos. 42 and 44 we get a glimpse of
the _Casa dos Bicos_, built in the 16th cent. by Braz, a son of Affonso
de Albuquerque (p. 10). It derives its name from the facetted stones of
the façade (‘bico’ meaning beak or point). All the electric tramways
proceed farther to the _Arsenal do Exército_ (Pl. H, 4, 5), containing
the _Artillery Museum_ on the first floor (adm., see p. 9).
From the N.W. corner of the Praça do Commercio, where king Carlos and
the crown-prince were brutally assassinated in 1908, the Rua do Arsenal
leads to the Largo do Municipio (Pl. F, 5), in the centre of which
stands a so-called _Pelourinho_, or pillory, as a symbol of the civic
jurisdiction.
The tramway ‘Santo Amaro Pampueha’ passes the =Museu Nacional das Bellas
Artes= (Pl. B, C, 4; adm., see p. 9), Rua das Janellas Verdes 57, which
contains art-industrial collections and a picture-gallery. (Note in Room
G, on the N. wall, No. 282, St. Jerome, by _Alb. Dürer_.)
The outer line, skirting the Tagus and affording fine views, passes the
_Mercado_, or fish-market (Pl. E, 5), which is worth seeing in the early
morning.
The two ‘Belem’ tramway-lines (Algés and Dafundo) lead through the
suburb of _Junqueira_ to that of =Belem= (Brit. vice-consul, C. J. F.
Duff). The Praça de Dom Fernando with a bronze statue, 13 ft. in height,
of Affonso de Albuquerque (p. 10) is adjoined on the N. by the PAÇO DE
BELEM. In the S.E. corner of the building is the _Museu Nacional dos
Coches_ (adm., see p. 9), with about thirty historical state-carriages.
Farther to the W. we reach in 5 min. the PRAÇA DE VASCO DA GAMA, with
the famous—
**=Convento dos Jeronymos de Belem= (Bethlehem; tramway from the Praça
do Commercio, Pl. F5, in ca. ½ hr.). This Hieronymite monastery, founded
in 1499 in memory of Vasco da Gama’s voyage of discovery, but used as an
orphanage (_Casa Pia_) since 1834, is still, in spite of infelicitous
alterations, the most brilliant example of the fantastic ‘Emmanuel
style’ (Arte Manuelina), of the time of Emmanuel I. the Great, a
picturesque blend of late-Gothic, Moorish, and Renaissance features with
_motifs_ from the gorgeous edifices of the East Indies.
The church of _Santa Maria_, at the S.E. angle of the monastery, the
burial-place of king Emmanuel and his successors, has a superb portal by
João de Castilho (sculptured by Nicholas ‘the Frenchman’), which,
according to Mr. Fergusson, resembles in design and detail the chapel at
Roslin (see Baedeker’s Great Britain). The church is open from early
morning till 9, and also after 2.30 p.m.—Adjoining the W. portal of the
church is the entrance (where we ring; fee 100–150 rs.) to the orphanage
and to the grand *_Cloisters_, the master-work of João de Castilho.
On the Tagus, about ½ M. to the S.W. of the monastery, rises the *=Tower
of Belem= (_Torre de Belem_), erected in 1520 to guard the mouth of the
river (best viewed at a distance).
[Illustration: LISBOA]
[Illustration: CIRCUMVISINHANÇAS DE LISBOA]
c. Excursion to Cintra.
17½ M. RAILWAY (in ¾–1 hr.). Nine expresses in summer, besides several
slow trains (tranvias), but fewer in winter (fares 530, 360, 230 rs.),
starting from the _Central Station_ (p. 6).
The train passes through a tunnel 1½ M. long to (3¾ M.) _Campolide_ in
the valley of the Alcántara. To the left are the arches of the aqueduct
(p. 12). At (13 M.) _Cacem_ our line diverges to the left from the
railway to Alfarellos (Coimbra and Oporto).
The country becomes more hilly; eucalypti, pines, and olives abound. To
the left rise the hills of Cintra.
17½ =M. Cintra.=—HOTELS. *_Gr.-Hôt. Costa_, _Netto_, _Lawrence_,
_Nunes_, _Central_, déj. or D. 800 rs., some closed in winter.
TRAMWAY from the station (to the left of the exit) to the Praça da
Republica (20 rs.).—CABS (good; with two horses) to the Castello da
Pena 2500 rs.; to the Quinta do Monserrate and back, 2000 rs.; but
lower fares are often accepted on application to the cab-owner
himself.
If time presses, we may visit both the Castello da Pena and the Quinta
de Monserrate in 4–5 hrs. (cab 4500 rs., bargaining advisable).
Energetic pedestrians require scarcely more time. Donkeys, only to be
recommended to gentlemen travelling alone, are a doubtful advantage,
nor will those in haste find the services of drivers or guides of much
avail; the usual price, after bargaining, is 400–500 rs. But it is
more enjoyable to devote a forenoon to the Castello da Pena, and the
afternoon to the Paço de Cintra and the Quinta.
_Cintra_ (680 ft.; pop. 5000), a favourite summer resort, lies at the N.
base of the granitic _Serra de Cintra_, on a spur between two ravines,
amidst groves of evergreen oaks and pines, and surrounded by charming
country-houses. Immediately above the little town rises a steep rock,
crowned by the Moorish castle. Beyond this rises the Pena with the
palace.
The centre of traffic is the Praça da Republica, with its late-Gothic
_Pelourinho_ (p. 14) and the main entrance to the palace.
The *=Paço de Cintra=, formerly the _Royal Palace_, was begun by John I.
(1383–1433) on the foundations of a Moorish palace and completed early
in the 16th cent. by Emmanuel the Great. The older parts, built by
Moorish hands, show a mingling of Moorish and late-Gothic elements,
while the newer parts, particularly the E. wing, are in the ‘Emmanuel
style’ (p. 14). The most characteristic features of the exterior are two
conspicuous conical kitchen-chimneys, the horseshoe and toothed arches
of the Moorish windows, and the Moorish battlemented parapet. The mural
tiles and the honeycombed wooden ceilings in the interior are other
survivals of the Moorish period. Visitors are shown round by the
castellan.
The Avenida Candido dos Reis, the road leading to the S. from the Largo
of that name, brings us in ¾ hr. to the _Castello dos Mouros_ (1408
ft.). The castle consists of two parts, to which a double wall, much
modernized, ascends. A visit to it takes more time than travellers in a
hurry can afford.
About ¼ hr. farther on we reach the Porta Principal of the _Park of
Pena_, where we alight (cameras must be given up). The officials are not
allowed to act as guides; the services of others should be declined. The
park contains over 400 species of trees and shrubs.
The *=Castello da Pena= (1732 ft.), perched on a steep rocky hill, was
built in 1840–50 in the style of a mediæval castle, partly within an old
monastery, by the Prince-Consort Ferd. of Coburg. The main tower is a
copy of the tower of Belem (p. 14). The castle is approached by two
gates and a cutting in the rock (‘corredor’). The ‘galeria’ of the
castle affords delightful views.
In the INTERIOR (adm. free) we pass through the Vestibule, with a
pyramidal tower, into the old Convent Church, with its superb
Renaissance altar brought from Belem, and into the two-storied
cloisters. The apartments contain many pictures (including an example
of Adr. Brouwer) and costly Hispano-Moorish majolicas. The ‘Sala de
Veados’ is embellished with stags’ antlers. The *DOME above it is
perhaps the finest point of view in the Serra de Cintra, but its
ascent requires a steady head. The eye ranges over Estremadura, from
Cape Espichel on the S.E. to the Berlengas Islands (p. 4) on the N. To
the N.E. rises the huge façade of the palace of Mafra. To the E. we
obtain glimpses of Lisbon and the plain to the S. of the Tagus. To the
S. rises the summit of the Cruz Alta, and to the W. lies the boundless
Atlantic.
We now enter the _Jardim das Camelias_ or castle-garden, where the
camellias, rhododendrons, and azaleas present a marvellous wealth of
blossom in spring; then, passing a well and several fish-ponds, we soon
reach a side-exit from the grounds, where the carriage should be ordered
to meet us.
The *=Cruz Alta= (1736 ft.), the highest of the Cintra hills, which
affords a view similar to that from the dome of the castle, may be
ascended in 20 min. by a path diverging in the park to the S., near
the Porta Principal, and passing the _Statue of Vasco da Gama_.
A favourite walk near Cintra is the *_Caminho de Collares_ skirting the
hills. This road, bordered with beautiful evergreens, leads past
charming country-houses (the _Penha Verde_ and others). On the right,
about 2 M. from Cintra, is the famous—
**=Quinta de Monserrate= (adm. 200, on Sun. and holidays 300 rs.), the
property of Sir Fred. Cook, Visconde de Monserrate. The grounds, a visit
to which takes 1–2 hrs., extend far over hill and dale, and are unique
in Europe in magnificence of vegetation. From the entrance we turn to
the left, cross a brook, and follow its left bank, where we enjoy a
delightful view of the palace beyond the lofty tree-ferns. We then pass
an artificial ruin, walk round the palace (no adm.), and re-ascend to
the entrance.
See also _Baedeker’s Spain and Portugal_.
[Illustration: MADEIRA]