INK POT.
This exercise is carried out as follows: A form is first raised like the
lower part of the pot inverted, which is nothing more than a bowl so
far. A hole with a diameter a little less than the diameter of the ink
well is then sawed with a piercing saw in the bottom of this bowl, as at
A. After this a circular piece of metal is cut equal in diameter to the
top of this bowl plus 1/4 of an inch, and soldered on G. By making this
piece 1/4 inch greater than the diameter of the bowl, the soldering
process becomes much easier. After the soldering is finished, the
projecting edges may be filed off to the edge of the bowl. The bowl is
then inverted so that it rests on its greatest diameter H, and it
becomes an ink pot.
[Illustration: FIGURE 29. Dapping tools in use.]
The cover, J, is made by taking a circular piece of metal and raising
the sides in the same way as in the bowl except that the design calls
for the sides at right angles to the base. The curve is obtained by
placing it on a sand bag and driving it out from the inside to the
required height. From a strip of copper 20 gauge and 3/16 inch wide, C,
make a ring, D, equal in diameter to the inside of the cover. Solder the
ends of the ring together and, after shaping it over a circular stake,
fit and solder it to the base, as shown in the section at E.
[Illustration: PLATE 42. INK POT]
[Illustration: PLATE 43.]
This keeps the cover in place. The knob, K, on the cover is made of two
hemispheres, L, by use of the dapping block and tools, Figures 7 and 29.
The two pieces are soldered together, filed or finished about the joint,
and soldered to the cover, F. After dipping the different parts in the
pickle, then washing them in clean water, and doing a little filing here
and there about the joints to remove surplus solder, the ink pot is
ready for finishing. This may be done by polishing, bronzing, or
oxidizing.
The ink well proper should be made so that it may be removed. It should
be of glass or some other material easily cleansed.
[Illustration]
[Illustration: PLATE 44. INK POT]
SEALING WAX SET.
THE WAX POT.
The wax pot is raised into shape as described in Chapter VI on raised
forms. Instead of cutting the top off level, a nose is formed as shown
at A, Plate 45, which will pour well. A handle is designed, sawed out,
and riveted on at the position indicated at B.
THE LAMP.
The body of the lamp is made by raising a bowl to conform with the
design; after cutting a hole in the bottom it is inverted, C, and the
bottom is soldered on at D. A shallow cup is raised, E, a hole cut in
the bottom to allow for the lamp proper, and soldered to the body. Legs
as shown at F, and held together by a strip, H, are riveted to the side
of the body at G; on these the wax pot rests. The lamp proper or alcohol
well, which is filled with asbestos, is raised with the edges turned
out, as at N, which hold it in place as shown in the section at J. The
part at K serves as a burner and is placed loosely in the cup, E,
allowing its removal at any time.
SEAL.
A monogram, letter or design of some sort must first be decided on. When
this has been done, the design is transferred and scratched on a piece
of 22 or 24 gauge copper. If the design has a right and wrong to it, the
reverse should be transferred to the metal so that, when stamped, the
right side will appear. The copper is then placed on the pitch and when
cool enough to work upon, the lines are followed with a chasing tool,
sinking them to the required depth. Care must be taken to avoid sharp
edges or any undercutting, if the seal is to free itself easily from the
wax. A handle for the seal may be made of wood as shown on the plate;
the seal is cut and attached as shown at Section on L. M.
[Illustration: PLATE 45. SEALING WAX SET]
WATCH FOB.
There are many ways of making watch fobs. A very simple one is made as
follows: First make a drawing of the fob with some suitable pendant as
at A, Plate 46. The pendant design is next transferred to a piece of 12
gauge copper, then sawed out and filed into shape. This must be done
with perhaps more care than on larger work as it is to be more closely
scrutinized. The parts of the fob must be made to conform with the width
of the ribbon that is to be used. A bar must be made for the top, wide
enough for the ribbon to be passed through and fastened. This bar is
made by cutting a slot in a piece of metal of the same gauge as the
pendant, or by bending a piece of wire around a piece of metal about
1/16 of an inch thick and the width of the ribbon, making the ends meet
in the centre of one of the long sides. If more than one of these pieces
is needed, the wire is wound around the metal as many times as there are
pieces required and sawed apart. The ends are then bent to come in line
with each other and soldered. The piece is again placed over the metal
and, with a rawhide hammer, worked into shape. The links that connect
the bar and the swivel are made as all links are made. Take a piece of
iron or steel wire the size required and also a piece of copper; place
one end of the steel wire and one end of the copper wire in a vise so
that the steel wire stands vertical. Then wind the copper wire around
the steel wire spirally with as many turns as there are links required.
Now take it out of the vise and slip it off the steel wire, which leaves
it in the shape of a spring. Hold it with the thumb and forefinger of
the left hand and, resting it against the bench pin, saw the links off
with a fine saw one at a time until there are as many as needed.
[Illustration]
[Illustration: PLATE 46. WATCH FOBS]
[Illustration: PLATE 47.]
[Illustration]
One of these links is soldered to the bar that holds the ribbon and one
to the top of the pendant; the others are linked together to form the
short chain at the top. To connect the pendant to the ribbon, two larger
links are needed which are made in the same way as the small ones. All
the links may be soldered or not. The links that are soldered to the bar
and to the pendant should be filed flat a little to make the point of
contact greater. This insures a more secure joint. When soldering such
small pieces the charcoal block is indispensable, for depressions are
easily made in it where necessary. The parts are placed on the block in
position and a small mouth blow-pipe is used; with this the flame can be
more delicately applied.
[Illustration]
When the different parts are completed, they are pickled, rinsed, dried,
and polished, and then put together with the ribbon.
Fobs are sometimes made entirely of metal as B, Plate 46. In this slots
are sawed in three or more bars of metal which are linked together with
links made from the same thickness metal as the bars. The pendant and
the swivel are also connected with the same kind of links.
[Illustration]