IV

JOURNEY TO AMIENS, WITH AN ACCOUNT OF THE

PRESENT STATE OF THE COUNTRY

After all our arrangements had been concluded we proceeded on the route

towards Paris.

We were forcibly struck by the backward state of the vegetation in the

Department of Calais, and we compared the poverty of the exhausted soil

with the luxuriant richness of the county of Kent this early spring.

Over the service of vast unenclosed tracts of land we perceived

scarcely any but women employed in culture of the earth.

The implements of village husbandry, as well as the cattle, were

the worst I ever beheld, and the population did not seem in any

way adequate to the extent of the country. Wherever any vestiges

of religion or aristocracy remained we traced the ravages of the

Revolution. Monasteries and churches were heaps of ruins; if a church

had escaped the general wreck, an inscription over its portal, “This

is the Temple of Reason and Truth,” denoted that it had been abused for

atheistical purposes.

In every village through which we passed crowds of children, women and

old men pressed upon us, begging charity and bread. I inquired into the

causes of this melancholy spectacle. My informer pointed to a monastery

in ruins, and shook his head. I felt the force of this explanation.

The agreeable seaport of Boulogne presented itself before us. When we

reached the gates I asked whether Parker was alive.

France in eighteen hundred and two · 第 15 / 173 题