changes--that is, a long garment of any colour that is preferred.
No one would leave the house by day if he were not dressed in this
long garment, and for the most part in black. They have so observed
this custom, that the individuals of every nation in the world--which
has a settlement in Venice--all adopt this style, from the greatest
to the least, beginning with the gentlemen, down to the sailors and
_galeotti_. Certainly it is a dress which inspires confidence, and is
very dignified. The wearers all seem to be doctors in law, and if a man
should appear out of the house without his toga, he would be thought
mad....
When the Venetian gentlemen take office or go on some embassy,
they wear very splendid garments; in truth, they could not be more
magnificent. They are of scarlet, of velvet, of brocade, if the wearers
hold high office; and all the linings of every kind are very costly....
The Venetian women, especially the pretty ones, try as much as possible
in public to show their chests--I mean their breasts and shoulders--so
much so, that several times when I saw them I marvelled that their
clothes did not fall off their backs. Those who can afford it, and also
those who cannot, dress very splendidly, and have magnificent jewels
and pearls in the trimming round their collars. They wear many rings on
their fingers, with great balass rubies, rubies and diamonds. I said
also those who cannot afford it, because I was told that many of them
hire these things. They paint their faces a great deal, and also the
other parts they show, in order to appear more beautiful.... I thought
it my duty to seek out the churches and monasteries and go and see the
relics which are very numerous; and this seemed to me a meritorious
work for a pilgrim who was awaiting the departure of the galley to go
to the Holy Sepulchre--thus finishing the time as well as I could.
CANON PIETRO CASOLA.
_‘Pilgrimage to Jerusalem in the Year 1494,’
Translated by M. Margaret Newett, B.A._
VENICE: SOME SIXTEENTH-CENTURY
CHARACTERISTICS
I came to Venice at the time of a Faire, which lasted fourteene dayes,
wherein I sawe very many, and faire shewes of wares. I came thither too
short for the first passage, which went from Venice about the seventh
or eighth of May, and with them about three score pilgrims, which
shippe was cast away at a towne called Estria, two miles from Venice,
and all the men in hers, saving thirtie, or thereabouts, lost.
Within eight dayes after fell Corpus Christi day, which was a day
amongst them of procession, in which was shewed the plate and treasurie
of Venice, which is esteemed to be worth two millions of pounds, but
I do not accompt it woorth halfe a quarter of that money, except there
be more than I sawe. To speake of the sumptuousnesse of the copes and
vestments of the Church, I leave, but the trueth is, they bee very
sumptuous, many of them set all over with pearle, and made of cloth of
gold....
To tell you of the duke of Venice, and of the Seigniory: there is one
chosen that ever beareth the name of duke, but in trueth hee is but
servant to the Seigniorie, for of himselfe hee can doe little: it is no
otherwise with him, then with a priest that is at Masse upon a festival
day, which putting on his golden garment, seemeth to be a great man,
but if any man came unto him, and crave some friendship at his handes,
hee will say, you must goe to the Masters of the parish, for I can not
pleasure you, otherwise then by preferring of your suite: and so it is
with the duke of Venice, if any man having a suite, came to him, and
make his complaint, and deliver his supplication, it is not in him to
help him, but hee will tell him, You must come this day, or that day,
and then I will preferre your suite to the Seigniorie, and doe you the
best friendship that I may. Furthermore, if any man bring a letter unto
him, he may not open it, but in the presence of the Seigniorie, and
they are to see it first, which being read, perhaps they will deliver
it to him, perhaps not. Of the Seigniory there be about three hundred,
and about fourtie of the privie Counsell of Venice, who usually are
arayed in gownes of crimsen Satten, or crimsen Damaske, when they sit
in Counsell.
In the Citie of Venice, no man may weare a weapon, except he be a
soldier for the Seigniorie, or a skoller of Padua, or a gentleman of
great countenance, and yet he may not do that without licence.
As for the women of Venice, they be rather monsters, then women. Every
Shoemakers or Taylors wife will have a gowne of silke, and one to
carrie up her traine, wearing their shooes very neere halfe a yard high
from the ground: if a stranger meete one of them, he will surely think
by the state that she goeth with, that he meeteth a Lady.
LAURENCE ALDERSEY (1581).
THE BEAUTIE AND MAGNIFICENCE OF VENICE
I having oftentimes observed many strangers, men wise and learned, who
arriving newly at _Venice_, and beholding the beautie and magnificence
thereof, were stricken with so great an admiration and amazement, that
they woulde, and that with open mouth, confesse, never any thing which
before time they had seene, to be thereunto comparable, either in glory
or goodlinesse. Yet was not every one of them possessed with the like
wonder of the same particular thing: for to some it seemed a matter of
infinite marvaile, and scarcely credible to behold, so unmeasurable a
quantity of all sorts of merchandise to be brought out of all realmes
and countries into this Citie, and hence againe to be conveyed into
so many strange and far distant nations, both by land and sea. Others
exceedingly admired the wonderful concourse of strange and forraine
people, yea, of the farthest and the remotest nations, as though the
City of _Venice_ onely were a common and general market to the whole
world. Others were astonished at the greatnesse of the empire thereunto
belonging, and the mightinesse of their state both by land and sea:
but the greater part of the most wise and judiciall sort were rather in
themselves confounded with amazement at the new and strange manner of
the situation of this Citie, so fitte and convenient for all things,
that it seemed unto them a thing rather framed by the hands of the
immortall gods, than any way by the arte, industry, or invention of
men. And for this only cause deemed the Citie of _Venice_ to excell all
those, that in this age are to be found, or at any time ever were....
The situation of _Venice_ being rather to be attributed to some divine
providence, than to any human industry, is (beyond the beliefe of all
those that have not seene this cittie) not onely most safe and secure,
both by land and sea from all violence, but also in the highest degree
opportune and commodious to the aboundance of all thinges that are
behoovefull to the citizens, as also for traffique of all sortes of
merchandise, in manner with all nations of the worlde. For it is seated
in a remote and secrete place of the Adriatike sea, where on that
side (where the sea beholdeth the continent) there are mightie great
lakes; fortified with an admirable artifice of nature. For twelve miles
off the continent, the sea beginneth to be shallow: the banke which
ariseth behind these shallowes, reacheth almost three score miles, and
incloseth the lakes within.... In this manner therefore are the lakes
of the Citie of _Venice_ inclosed, partly with firme ground, partly
with this banke and shallowes: in middle of the which, in that place,
which of our ancestors was called _Rialta_, and as yet retaineth the
name, was the Citie of _Venice_ budded, at such time as the _Hunnes_
under the conduct of _Atyla_ did spoile with fire and sword the
territory of Venetia, a noble province of _Italie_, which bordered
upon those lakes: in which calamitous time the citizens of _Padua_,
of _Aquilea_, of _Concordia_, and of _Altina_, being all faire and
goodly cities of _Venetia_, such of them as were chiefe in riches, and
nobility, did first get themselves with their families into certaine
islands, or rather little hills, which did appear out somewhat above
the sea, and there built them places of abode, in which as in a secure
haven they avoyded the ragefull tempest of the _Hunnes_.
SIR LEWES LEWKENOR (1599).
FAYRE VENICE
The antique _Babel_, Empresse of the East,
Uprear’d her buildinges to the threatened skie:
And Second _Babell_ tyrant of the West,
Her angry towers upraised much more high.
But with the weight of their own surquedry,
They both are fallen, that all the earth did feare,
And buried now in their own ashes ly,
Yet showing by their heapes how great they were.
But in their place doth now a third appeare,
Fayre _Venice_, flower of the last worlds delight.
EDW. SPENCER (1599).
SOME MARVELS OF VENICE
This stately City built on the bottome of the gulfe of the Adriatique
Sea, in the midst of marshes upon many ilands, is defended on the East
side against the sea, by a banke of earthe, which hath five (or some
say seven) mouths or passages into the sea, and is vulgarly called _Il
Lido_: and being so placed by nature, not made by art, bendeth like
a bowe, and reacheth thirty-five miles.... Venice hath thirty one
Cloysters of Monkes, and twenty eight of nunnes, besides chappels and
almes-houses. Channels of water passe through this city (consisting
of many ilands joyned with bridges) as the bloud passeth through the
veines of a man’s body; so that a man may passe to what place he will
both by land and water. The great channell is in length about one
thousand three hundred paces, and in breadth forty paces, and hath
only one bridge called _Rialto_, and the passage is very pleasant by
this channel; being adorned on both sides with stately pallaces. And
that men may pass speedily, besides this bridge, there be thirteen
places called _Traghetti_, where boats attend called _gondole_, which
being of incredible number give ready passage to all men. The rest
of the channels running through lesse streets, are more narrow, and
in them many bridges are to be passed under. The aforesaid boats are
very neat, and covered all save the ends with black cloth, so as the
passengers may goe unseene and unknowne, and not bee annoyed at all
with the sunne, winde, or raine. And these boats are ready at call any
minute of the day or night. And if a stranger know not the way, hee
shall not need to aske it, for if he will follow the presse of people,
hee shall be sure to bee brought to the market place of Saint _Mark_,
or that of _Rialto_; the streets being very narrow (which they pave
with bricke), and besides if hee onely know his host’s name, taking a
boat, he shall be safely brought thither at any time of the night....
Saint _Marke_ is the protecting saint of this city. The body of which
saint being brought hither by merchants from _Alexandria_: this church
was built in the year 829 at the charge of the Duke _Justinian_, who
dying, gave by his last will great treasure to that use, and charged
his brother to finish the building, which was laid upon the ruines of
Saint _Theodore’s_ Church, who formerly had been the protecting saint
of the city.... The building is become admirable, for the singular
art of the builders and painters, and the most rare peeces of marble,
porphyry, ophites (stones so called of speckles like a serpent) and
like stones; and they cease not still to build it, as if it were
unfinished, lest the revenues given by the last wils of dead men to
that use, should return to their heirs (as the common report goes)....
Upon the ground neere the great door, is a stone, painted as if it were
engraven, which painting is vulgarly called, _a la mosaica_, and upon
this stone _Pope Alexander_ set his foot upon the necke of the Emperor
_Frederick Barbaross_, adoring him after his submission. The outward
part of the church is adorned with one hundred and forty eight pillars
of marble, whereof some are ophytes, that is speckled, and eight of
them are porphyry neere the great doore, which are highly esteemed.
And in all places about the church, there be some six hundred pillars
of marble, besides some three hundred in the caves under ground. Above
these pillars on the outside of the church is an open gallery, borne
up with like pillars, from whence the Venetians at times of feasts,
behold any shewes in the market place. And above this gallery, and over
the great door of the church, be foure horses of brass, gilded over,
very notable for antiquity and beauty; and they are so set, as if at
the first step they would leap into the market place. They are said
to be made to the similitude of the horses of _Phœbus_, drawing the
Chariot of the Sunne, and to have been put upon the triumphal arch of
_Nero_, by the people of Rome, when he had overcome the Parthians....
Above this gallery the image of Saint _Marke_, of marble, and like
images of the other Evangelists and of the Virgin _Mary_, and of the
_Angel Gabriell_, are placed, and there is a bell upon which the houres
are sounded, for the church hath his clock, though another very faire
clocke in the market place be very neere.... I passe over the image
of Saint _Marke_ of brass in the forme of a lion, guilded over, and
holding a booke of brasse. Likewise the artificiall images of the
Doctors of the Church, and others. I would passe over the image of the
Virgin _Mary_, painted _a la mosaica_, that is as if it were engraven,
but that they attribute great miracles to it, so as women desirous to
know the state of their absent friends, place a wax candle burning in
the open air before the image, and beleeve that if their friend be
alive, it cannot be put out with any force of wind; but if he be dead,
that the least breath of wind puts it out, or rather of it self it goes
out: and besides for that I would mention that those who are adjudged
to death, offer waxe candles to this image, and as they passe by, fall
prostrate to adore the same. To conclude, I would not omit mention
thereof, because all shippes comming into haven, use to salute this
image, and that of Saint _Marke_, with pieces of ordinance, as well
and more than the Duke. A merchant of _Venice_ saved from shipwracke,
by the light of a candle in a darke night, gave by his last will to
this image, that his heires for ever should find a waxe candle to burne
before the same.... Touching the inside of the church: In the very
porch thereof is the image of Saint _Marke_, painted with wonderfull
art, and the Images of Christ crucified, of Him buried, and of the
foure Evangelists, highly esteemed; besides many other much commended
for the said painting like engraving, and for other workemanship. And
there be erected foure great pillars of ophites, which they say were
brought from the Temple of _Salomon_. At the entery of the doore, is
an old and great sepulcher, in which lies the Duke _Marino Morosini_.
Not far thence is the image of Saint _Geminian_ in pontificall habit,
and another of Saint _Katherine_, both painted with great art. When
you enter the body of the church there is the great altar, under which
lies Saint _Marke_, in a chest of brasse, decked with images of silver
guilded, and with plates of gold, and images enamelled, and with the
image of Christ sitting upon a stately throne, adorned with pillars of
most white marble, and many precious stones, and curiously engraven. At
the back of this altar there is another, which they call the altar of
the most Holy Sacrament, made of best marble, with a little doore of
brasse, decked with carved images, and with foure pillars of alabaster,
transparent as christall, and highly esteemed; and upon the same hang
every day two lampes of copper: and at the times of feasts there hang
two of pure silver.... At the entry of the chancell, is the throne of
the dukes, make of walnut-tree, all carved above the head, and when
the dukes sit there, it was wont to be covered with carnation satten,
but now it is covered with cloth of gold, given by the King of Persia.
There be two stately pulpits of marble, with histories carved in brass,
where they sing the Epistles and Gospels. On the left hand by the altar
of Saint _James_ is a place, where (if a man may beleeve it) the body
of Saint _Marke_, by a crevice suddenly breaking through the marble
stone, appeared in the yeere 1094, to certaine priests who had fasted
and praied to find the same, the memory of the place where it was laied
at the building of the church about 829 being utterly lost....
The foure square market place of _Rialto_ is compassed with publike
houses, under the arches whereof, and in the middle part lying open,
the merchants meet. And there is also a peculiar place where the
gentlemen meet before noone, as they meet in the place of Sainte
_Marke_ towards evening; and here to nourish acquaintance, they spend
an houre in discourses, and because they use not to make feasts one
to another, they keepe this meeting as strictly as merchants, lest
their friendship should decay. The gold-smiths shoppes lie thereby,
and over against them shoppes of jewellers, in which art the Venetians
are excellent.... To conclude: this most noble city, as well for the
situation, freeing them from enemies, as for the freedome of the
Common-wealth, preserved from the first founding, and for the freedome
which the citizens and very strangers have, to enjoy their goods, and
dispose of them, and for manifold other causes, is worthily called in
Latine _Venetia_, as it were _Veni etiam_, that is, _come again_.
FYNES MORYSON.
ADDRESSED TO VENICE
Fayre mayden towne that in rich _Thetis_ armes,
Hath still been fostered since thy first foundation.
Whose glorious beauty cals unnumbered swarmes
Of rarest spirits from each forrin nation,
And yet (sole wonder to all Europes eares,
Most lovely Nimph, that ever _Neptune_ got)
In all this space of thirteene hundred yeares,
Thy virgin state ambition ne’er could blot.
Now I prognosticate thy ruinous case;
When thou shalt from thy Adriatique seas,
View in this Ocean Isle thy painted face,
In these pure colours coyest eyes to please,
Then gazing in thy shadowes peerless eye,
Enamour’d like _Narcissus_ thou shalt die.
J. ASHLEY (1599).
SCENE IN VENICE
Black Demons hovering o’er his mitred head,
To Cæsar’s Successor the Pontiff spake;
‘Ere I absolve thee, stoop! that on thy neck
Levelled with earth this foot of mine may tread.’
Then he, who to the altar had been led,
He, whose strong arm the Orient could not check,
He, who had held the Soldan at his beck,
Stooped, of all glory disinherited,
And even the common dignity of man!--
Amazement strikes the crowd: while many turn
Their eyes away in sorrow, others burn
With scorn, invoking a vindictive ban
From outraged Nature; but the sense of most
In abject sympathy with power is lost.
WILLIAM WORDSWORTH.
THE MARRIAGE OF VENICE WITH THE SEA
HOW THE CEREMONY WAS FIRST INSTITUTED
From Venice wee departed on the twentieth of August 1610, in the
_Little Defence_ of London. The Venetians are Lords of this Sea,
but not without contention with the Papacie. On Ascention Day, the
Duke accompanyed with the Clarissimoes of that Signiory, is rowed
thither in the Bucentoro, a triumphall Galley, richly, and exquisitely
gilded: above a roome (beneath which they row) comprehending the whole
length and breadth of the Galley; neere the poope a throne, and the
rest accommodated with seates, where he solemnely espouseth the Sea:
confirmed by a Ring throwne therein, the Nuptiall Pledge and Symboll
of subjection. The Ceremonie received a beginning from the Sea-battell
fought and wonne by the Venetians, under the conduct of Sebastiano
Zani, against the forces of Fredericke Barbarossa, in the quarrell of
Pope Alexander the Third. Who flying his furie in the habit of a Cooke
repayred to Venice, and there long lived disguised in the Monastery of
Charitie. Zani returning in triumph with the Emperours Sonne, was met
by the Pope, and saluted in this manner: Here take, O Zani, this Ring
of Gold, and by giving it to the Sea, oblige it unto thee. A ceremonie
shall on this day bee yearly observed, both by thee and thy Successors,
that Posteritie may know how you have purchast the Dominion thereof by
your valours, and made it subject unto you, as a Wife to her Husband.
GEORGE SANDYS (1610).
THE DOGE OF VENICE GOES IN STATE
I was present at high mass this morning, October 6th, which annually
on this day the Doge must attend, in the church of St. Justina, to
commemorate an old victory over the Turks. When the gilded barks,
which carry the princes and a portion of the nobility, approach the
little square, when the boatmen, in their rare liveries, are plying
their red-painted oars, when on the shore the clergy and the religious
fraternities are standing, pushing, moving about, and waiting with
their lighted torches fixed upon poles and portable silver chandeliers;
then, when the gangways, covered with carpets, are placed from the
vessels to the shore, and first the full violet dresses of the
Savii, next the ample red robes of the Senators are unfolded upon
the pavement, and lastly when the old Doge--adorned with his golden
Phrygian cap, in his long golden _talar_ and his ermine cloak, steps
out of the vessel--when all this, I say, takes place in a little square
before the portal of a church, one feels as if one were looking at an
old worked tapestry, exceedingly well designed and coloured. To me,
northern fugitive as I am, this ceremony gave a great deal of pleasure.
With us, who parade nothing but short coats in our processions of pomp,
and who conceive nothing greater than one performed with shouldered
arms, such an affair might be out of place. But these trains, these
peaceful celebrations, are all in keeping here.
The Doge is a well-grown and well-shaped man, who, perhaps, suffers
from ill health, but, nevertheless, for dignity’s sake, bears himself
upright under his heavy robe. In other respects he looks like the
grandpapa of the whole race, and is kind and affable. His dress is very
becoming, the little cap, which he wears under the large one, does not
offend the eye, resting as it does upon the whitest and finest hair in
the world.
About fifty _nobili_, with long, dark-red trains, were with him. For
the most part they were handsome men, and there was not a single
uncouth figure among them. Several of them were tall with large
heads, so that the white curly wigs were very becoming to them. Their
features are prominent; the flesh of their faces is soft and white,
without looking flabby and disagreeable. On the contrary, there is
an appearance of talent without exertion, repose, self-confidence,
easiness of existence, and a certain joyousness pervades the whole.
When all had taken their places in the church, and mass began, the
fraternities entered by the chief door, and went out at the side door
to the right, after they had received holy water in couples, and made
their obeisance to the high altar, to the Doge, and the nobility.
GOETHE.
ON THE EXTINCTION OF THE VENETIAN REPUBLIC
Once did She hold the gorgeous east in fee;
And was the safeguard of the west: the worth
Of Venice did not fall below her birth,
Venice, the eldest Child of Liberty.
She was a maiden City, bright and free;
No guile seduced, no force could violate;
And, when she took unto herself a Mate,
She must espouse the everlasting Sea.
And what if she had seen those glories fade,
Those titles vanish, and that strength decay;
Yet shall some tribute of regret be paid
When her long life hath reached its final day:
Men are we, and must grieve when even the Shade
Of that which once was great, is passed away.
WILLIAM WORDSWORTH.
VENETIAN DAMES