Locusts--The Winged Ant--Its Destructive Nature--Horse
attacked by them--Their Ingenuity in Building--Stock--Great
Want of Mechanics--Portuguese Whydah--Emigrants from Sierra
Leone--Their Deplorable Condition--English at the Fort
of Whydah--Military Resources of Dahomey--Polygamy--Mode
of Shipping Slaves--Brutality on these occasions--Porto
Sogoora--Mr. Lawson’s Slaves--Greejee--Toll imposed
there--Zahlivay--Yakasgo--Badaguay--The Cabbage Palm-tree--Wooded
Scenery--The Palm-tree--Exploring Visit to the Haho--Misfortunes of
Ithay Botho, Capt. Clapperton’s Servant--Adventures--Curiosity of
the Natives--Podefo and its Market--Alligators--My Crew mutiny from
fear--Hippopotami--Superstition of the Natives--A party of Fishermen,
and their Fish-traps--Base Conduct of the Fishermen--My Punishment of
them and my Crew.
Another very singular animal of the insect tribe which I met with here,
is of the class of locusts, which I have not seen in any other part of
Africa. Its form is similar to that of the grasshopper, but it has four
long transparent wings. The body is of a scarlet colour, the wings of
a bright yellow. It is about four inches and a half long. At a leap,
assisted by its wings, it can clear about twelve yards. Another insect
is the large winged ant, about the dimensions of the wasp in England.
They are well known to all African travellers, although some of their
habits and powers may not have been noticed. One circumstance I shall
relate, which convinced me at least of one peculiarity in that insect.
Yesterday morning, after a night’s heavy rain, I observed several of
them going singly in different directions; for they seldom go in large
companies like other ants. I caught one, and carried it home in the
bend of a twig. It emitted a smell, immediately upon being caught, of
the most offensive and loathsome kind. I put it into a tin case with
some other live insects, but the smell was so offensive as to compel me
to leave the room. In about an hour and a half I returned, and found
all the other insects dead. The moment I opened the box, the ant again
emitted the most offensive smell.
A thought struck me that instead of the ant destroying the other
insects by violence (as I at first imagined) their death might have
been the result of the poisonous effluvia emitted by this peculiar
ant. I determined, consequently, upon making another trial, and,
having caught several of these insects, amongst which was the large
white-winged ant, with several varieties of beetles, I took the
precaution to fix a partition in the box, that neither party could use
violence towards the other. On re-opening the box, which was perforated
with small air-holes, all the others were apparently dead. I took
out all but the ant. One peculiar sort of beetle seemed to recover
a little after being put in a current of fresh air, but ultimately
that died also. I afterwards caught another ant, and held it near a
dog’s nose, upon which the poor animal struggled and howled. I tried
to hold it near my horse’s nose, but he also rejected it with bitter
determination. I left both ants alive in the box of bamboo, on my
bedroom table, and although well ventilated, I awoke quite sick at the
stomach. I then took some medicine, and put the ants to death.
To some this statement may seem exaggerated, but those who may be
incredulous I would refer to Governor Maclean, late of Cape Coast, and
long an African resident. His veracity is not to be doubted; or I would
refer to any of the British merchants of our settlements on the African
coast.
This species of ant builds hills from twelve to fifteen feet high, and
displays wonderful skill in architecture, both as regards durability
and protection against foul weather. It has a peculiar method of
hardening the mud of which it builds its house, rendering it equal in
hardness to cement: these houses are of a spiral form. This ant is
armed with two large horizontal fangs, with which he secures his prey,
then bites with his teeth perpendicularly to the fangs; these, aided
by a sharp sting, render him (independently of his poisonous odour)
a formidable enemy. Another large ant, though of less magnitude and
without the offensive smell, is also found in this country, and is
probably as dangerous as the former, on account of its travelling in
large armies.
I remember shooting a pigeon near Cape Coast, which fell on one of
their paths. Before I reached the spot, which was not more than two
minutes, they had commenced an attack in hundreds on the poor pigeon,
who was yet struggling to beat them off. I was myself attacked, and
was actually compelled to strip myself naked on the road, to clear my
person of them.
Mr. Hanson, of Accra, informs me of a similar attack made by these ants
upon himself and horse, and declares that they would have killed the
latter had he not had the presence of mind to throw numerous buckets
of water over the poor animal, and dash water up his nostrils, which
were literally filled with them. These ants display still more taste
in their mode of building, and seem to prefer the Gothic style of
architecture. They first build an upright shaft about three feet, then
at intervals of about six inches build circular apartments, each formed
conically round the shaft, very much like a large bason turned upside
down; the shaft resembling a large stick run through the centre of
half a dozen basons. The top apartment terminates in a spiral cone
or pyramid, and is consequently quite waterproof. From their skill
in hardening the clay, the space between each floor or apartment
forms a convenient gallery, where they exercise in bad weather. These
apartments are all honey-combed, and have a passage, or rather several
staircases, from the lower to the upper apartment through the main
shaft.
I ought first, however, to have said something of the higher animals.
Oxen are not so numerous here as in Whydah, no attention being paid to
the breeding; nor are sheep or goats so numerous as in other parts of
this country. The Portuguese and Spaniards are the principal parties
who hold any stock, consequently the breed of oxen is much inferior
in size to those I have observed in many other places on this coast.
Sheep and goats are better bred than oxen; but horses are not at all
bred here. Some of the Portuguese and Spaniards have small horses,
brought from Badagry and Abomey. Neither the ox nor horse is used for
agricultural purposes, although the soil is so well calculated for the
plough, being very level, and without a stone even of the smallest
size. The wild ox is abundant in the bush near this place, as is
also a species of deer, both black and red. The head is broader and
thicker, and its legs less graceful than those of the red deer, which
is lighter, and very much resembles our small deer in England.
Swine are very superior in this place, being almost equal to those
of England. Wild carnivorous animals abound in the bush in this
neighbourhood, particularly the patakoo, or large hyæna, the panther,
bush-cat, and small wolf.
Fowls are plentiful here, and some are very large, owing to the breed
being crossed by the large Portuguese fowl, which is brought over from
the Brazils by the Portuguese slave-dealers. The Guinea fowl is found
here also in great numbers, running wild in the neighbourhood.
I felt surprised at first to find this large settlement so destitute of
mechanics. There is not, in fact, to be found here a mechanic capable
of performing even the coarsest piece of workmanship, either in wood
or iron. This, no doubt, is attributable to the extensive slave-trade
formerly carried on here, preventing any attention being paid to other
pursuits. The slave-trade was so profitable a speculation, that the
merchants were enabled to bring everything necessary for their use from
the Brazils. The slave-merchants have elegant houses, furnished in a
handsome manner. The traffic in slaves, however, is now much reduced
on this coast, owing to two causes; first, the vigilance of the English
men-of-war in capturing so many slave-vessels; and, secondly, from
the circumstance that the slave-dealers are obliged to pay for their
slaves in cash, as the French and English factories established here
are able to sell manufactured goods at twenty-five per cent. less than
the Spaniards or Portuguese can possibly afford to do. This information
I obtained from one of the most respectable slave-dealers in Whydah.
He has only been two years in this trade, into which he embarked
in consequence of having involved himself in difficulties through
speculating in a business with which he was unacquainted in Madeira, of
which island he is a native. He is, I am glad to find, disgusted with
the trade.
Whydah is divided into three parts, or rather was so formerly. Besides
the real Portuguese, there are numerous slaves who have obtained their
freedom by purchase, and some by returning as servants or slaves to
the slave-dealers who come from Brazil. In many cases, when a rich
slave-dealer dies, he gives, by his will, freedom to all his slaves,
however numerous they may be. The Portuguese part of Whydah excels, in
every sense of the word, both the English and French. This I consider
attributable to their superiority in the knowledge of agriculture and
domestic economy and comfort of those returned slaves. Great numbers
of them have small farms in a very fair state of cultivation; and they
are much more cleanly in their habits and person than those who have
never left their native country as slaves. They also live in comfort
and plenty, and occupy good and well-furnished houses, while the latter
are wallowing in dirty wretchedness, ignorance, and poverty.
The few families who have lately emigrated hither from Sierra Leone
are the next who have made any attempt worth mention at cultivation.
They seem to strive hard; but without some assistance I fear their
efforts are not likely to be crowned with success, as their means are
not sufficient to enable them to cultivate the land to any extent, or
to export their produce. I am convinced that a great deal might be done
to benefit this country and these poor emigrants from Sierra Leone,
particularly in such a superior soil as that around Whydah.
Another party, who call themselves English, or belonging to the English
fort, consist of some very old men, who formerly were slaves in the
fort, and some of them soldiers. These poor old men are quite delighted
when mention is made of their early days, and express the happiness
they then enjoyed in comparison to what they now experience. Their sons
and daughters also consider themselves as belonging to the English.
Many years ago the King of Dahomey issued an order that all the people
who acknowledged themselves to belong to the English fort should from
time to time assist in repairing the fort, and he placed one man
(formerly a corporal in Governor James’s time) in charge of the fort;
but, like most Africans, when left to himself, he displayed but little
conscience, and let the fort go to ruin, except that part occupied
by himself and wives. However, Mr. T. Hutton, of Cape Coast, has now
established a tolerable factory in the old fort, and has put the place
into a considerable state of repair, although more is required to be
done.
Another party here is that of the French, which is very small, having
chiefly turned over to the Portuguese. Some few have again attached
themselves to the French fort, now occupied by a French merchant, who
is doing a profitable business in the palm-oil and ivory trade.
The military resources of the settlement of Whydah are very deficient,
having no regular trained army, but only a few standing or permanent
troops. They are chiefly composed of slaves, who are summoned to
assemble when a slave-hunt is contemplated, and during this service are
compelled to maintain themselves, of course, by plunder. When the war
or hunt is over, the rabble receive each a piece of cotton cloth to
wrap round his loins. They are then dismissed to their homes, where
they remain till their services are again required. The few constant
attendants as soldiers are people who are serving for punishment for
offences of various descriptions. For instance, if a man commits
adultery with the wife of another, and the case is laid before the
King, the offender is doomed to serve so long as he is able in the
capacity of a soldier, and when unfit for that service, was generally
offered as a sacrifice at one of the King’s annual customs; but the
latter part of this cruel sentence has been abolished by the present
King of Dahomey, who is much more merciful than his predecessors.
Polygamy is here unlimited, and depravity of every description to
an extraordinary extent. The longer I reside here, the more am I
convinced, however, that the most predominant passion of the African
is theft. The more they are taught, the more accomplished rogues they
become; and this is one of the most civilized settlements on the whole
of the western coast of Africa, from the number of liberated slaves who
have settled here, and who become themselves slave-dealers and farmers.
In fact, with the exception of Europeans, these are the only people who
show any signs of civilization. The former name of Whydah was Grihwee
or Grighwee; but since its subjection to Dahomey it has become part of
that territory, and received its present name. During wars the military
of Whydah are attached to the powerful army of Dahomey, which is of a
much superior description.
February 28th.--A slave crew was landed here to-day from the _Hydra_
steamer. On the 29th I went on board this vessel, and was kindly
received by the officers. Here I met with Mr. M’Gregor, first
lieutenant, who had been transferred from the _Prometheus_, in which
vessel I was passenger from England.
March 4th.--I went by the Lagoon river again to Ahguay, and arrived
early on the morning of the 5th. All was bustle and excitement amongst
the slave-merchants. They had, late on the previous evening, shipped
five hundred slaves in the short space of an hour, although the surf
is always very bad on this coast. Unfortunately two of the slaves were
drowned during the shipment. It had been intended to ship six hundred
slaves, had the _Hydra_ steamer not hove in sight. On the following
morning the _Hydra_ made the slaver a prize, to the great mortification
of all who had slaves on board.
It may be interesting to those unacquainted with slave-shipping to
learn something of the mode. When a shipment of slaves is about to
take place, the slaves are taken out, as if for their usual airing,
perhaps ten or twenty on one chain, which is fastened to the neck of
each individual, at the distance of about one yard apart. In this
manner they are thus marched in single file to the beach, without any
intimation of their fate, about which they seem quite indifferent
even when they know it. Every canoe is then put in requisition, and
the little piece of cotton-cloth tied round the loins of the slave
is stripped off, and the gang on each chain is in succession marched
close to a fire previously kindled on the beach. Here marking-irons
are heated, and when an iron is sufficiently hot, it is quickly dipped
in palm-oil, in order to prevent its sticking to the flesh. It is then
applied to the ribs or hip, and sometimes even to the breast. Each
slave-dealer uses his own mark, so that when the vessel arrives at her
destination, it is easily ascertained to whom those who died belonged.
They are then hurried into a canoe and compelled to sit in the bottom,
where they are stowed as closely as possible till the canoe reaches
the ship. They are then taken on board, and again put into the chain
until they reach their destination, where they are given over to their
intended masters or their agents.
March 6th.--Mr. Hutton having returned from Badagry, where he had been
visiting his factory, we sailed by the lagoon to the westward, as far
as Porto Sogoora, distant by lagoon forty-four miles. In our passage,
we put in at Popoe, and visited my old acquaintance, Mr. Lawson, and
his sons. At the landing-place were a number of Mr. Lawson’s slaves
bathing, all chained together by the neck. They all seemed very healthy
and happy, but I could not help thinking that it is well for them that
their nature and habits partake so much of the lower animal, otherwise
they would be sensible of their wretched situation.
After a short visit to Mr. Lawson, and an introduction to his two
principal wives, whose large dimensions I have already mentioned, we
again resumed our journey, and after five miles’ sail by lagoon, though
much less geographically, we arrived at Greejee, a town of great note
on account of its market, as I have already mentioned. Here a toll was
demanded of us. About one mile farther up the river, another barrier
crosses the river, and another toll was demanded. This consisted of
two bottles of rum. A great trade is carried on in this latter place,
which is named Zahlivay. It is situated on a rising ground, on the left
bank of the river. The reason of two tolls being established so near to
each other, is, to catch all parties attending the markets of both the
latter places, whether on descending or ascending the lagoon, each bar
being respectively placed below and above both towns. Greejee contains
twelve hundred inhabitants, and Zahlivay about two thousand.
The river here is at present only four feet and a half deep, and a
quarter of a mile broad; the land, level and rich. The right bank is
well cultivated, and there are a few plantations of cotton three miles
farther up the river. A beautiful belt of cocoa-trees extends along
the land, separating the lagoon from the sea. This belt extended for
several miles, and, with a close cover of shrubs of the laurel tribe,
gives an indescribable effect to the landscape; while, close to the
banks, are different patches of cultivated land. But on neither side of
the river does cultivation extend for any distance. Three miles higher
from the last-named town, and also on the left bank of the river,
running S.E., is a small village of two hundred inhabitants (name not
known); and two miles and a half farther in the same direction, and on
the same bank, is a small town of some note, owing to its inhabitants
performing some feat of valour, according to their ideas.
In the river, opposite this little town of Yakasgo, is a small verdant
island, but uncultivated, perhaps owing to the inundations during the
rainy season. Another village, or kroom, beautifully situated, and only
half a mile distant from the latter, suddenly presents itself, being
almost concealed with cocoa, palm, and cachu-trees. This is a fishing
village, having a great number of canoes, some of the most simple
construction, consisting merely of a cocoa-tree, of about eighteen
inches diameter, and twelve or fifteen feet in length, hollowed out
with the exception of a foot at each end. This unshapely vessel often
carries three boys, who navigate it with a skill quite astonishing,
bringing home sometimes a thousand fish.
About six miles higher, and magnetic west, is another town, called
Badaguay. This town has a weekly market. Its manufactures consist of
cotton cloths, generally blue and white stripe, earthen pots, lime,
indigo, country mats, and grass bags holding about a bushel. This town
is also on the left bank. The river is still only four feet and a half
deep.
Three miles farther, on the right, is a beautiful grove of the cabbage
palm-tree, extending for several miles. The belt of cocoa terminates
where the cabbage-palm commences. The latter tree is of a very singular
and graceful appearance. At the root it is not more than one foot
in diameter, and rises to the height of fifty feet. This singular
tree gradually thickens till it reaches one-third of its height, its
graceful swell increasing its diameter to twenty inches. It then again
decreases in thickness to the commencement of the branches, or leaves,
which resemble a number of ladies’ fans, each leaf beautifully ribbed
like a plaited frill, about four feet long, and spreading so as to form
three-fourths of a circle. To those who have never seen one of these
trees, it seems a wonderful production of Nature.
The lagoon becomes here half a mile wide, and continues only four feet
deep during the dry season. After ascending six miles nearly due west,
it widens to three-quarters of a mile, and becomes thickly wooded
on the right bank with large trees of different species, mixed with
beautiful shrubs of various kinds of the laurel tribe, and numerous
orchideous and parasitical plants, together with a great number of
singing birds of varied and beautiful plumage. The quiet stillness of
the scene, under the rays of a tropical sun, had, at least for a short
period, a pleasing effect upon my mind, recalling to my memory scenes
of boyhood. Those happy days recur to us now only as it were in dreams,
which quickly float past, and vanish on the rapid and silent stream of
life.
At sunset we arrived at Porto Sogoora, a town of considerable size,
though not of much trade. The chief manufacture here is palm-oil and
cotton cloths. The town is on the right bank of the lagoon, on a strip
of land separating it from the sea; the distance between the two latter
being one mile, and the town equidistant from each, and in the centre
of the bank, which is chiefly sand. The bank close to the lagoon is
thickly wooded with a great variety of large trees, with underwood and
running plants, of at least twenty different kinds. The palm-tree is
cultivated here on account of the nuts, used for oil. Monkeys are in
great abundance, passing in flocks from one tree to another, as nimbly
as if they belonged to the feathered tribe.
Immediately upon arriving at Porto Sogoora, we called upon the
caboceer, or headman of the place, a tall, stout, and good-natured
looking man, about thirty-eight years of age. After the usual formality
of an African visit, Mr. Hutton, who was on his return to Cape Coast,
determined at once to proceed on his journey. Mr. Hanson (agent to Mr.
Hutton, at his factory at Ahguay), and Mr. Henrique, half-brother to
Mr. Ingram, late Governor in the Gambia, accompanied Mr. Hutton as far
as the river Volta. Mr. Hanson and Mr. Henrique promised to return in
three days. In the interval I determined to remain at Porto Sogoora,
with a view to explore a river named Haho, which I have reason to
believe to have its rise in the Kong Mountains, north of Dahomey.
Accordingly I applied to the caboceer for four canoemen to work the
canoe, which he readily agreed to supply, but of course on being well
paid for it. He also offered to supply me with a young man as servant
and cook, which I accepted. I had, in addition, two volunteers; one old
man, named Ithay Botho (and now a fetish-man), a servant to Captain
Clapperton during his last travels in this country, and another man, a
native of Accra.
After giving my canoemen subsistence, my promised servant presented
himself, when, to my great surprise, I recognised in him a servant of
Governor Hill’s at Cape Coast only a few months before. I was agreeably
surprised at this, particularly as he could speak English. Poor fellow!
he was also much pleased at the opportunity of representing his case
to me, and the circumstances under which he was made a slave. It
appeared that, after leaving the service of the Governor of Cape Coast,
he ventured upon a journey along the coast as far as Little Elmina,
a distance of at least two hundred miles. At the latter place he was
requested by an Elmina soldier (if deserving such rank) to sell a piece
of cloth for him. He states that, after selling the cloth, the soldier
accused him of stealing the money. He was, in consequence, seized by
the soldier, and sold to a slave-dealer at Popoe. Owing, however, to
his being able to speak English, it was not deemed safe to ship him. He
was consequently exchanged with the caboceer of Porto Sogoora for two
younger slaves, the caboceer considering that he might make him useful
as an English interpreter in the course of trade. It is very probable
that the suspicions of the soldier were pretty correct, for I myself
had previous ocular demonstration of his being a thief. Indeed, you
will very seldom err far in suspecting most Africans to be rogues.
March 7th.--At 6 A.M., I called, as is the custom, on the caboceer,
who, upon the whole, behaved pretty well and kindly, although for
pecuniary motives. He called the canoemen and my Cape Coast servant,
and my two volunteers, giving them strict injunctions with regard
to my safety. I had also a boy left with me by Mr. Hanson. My party
altogether amounted to eight in number. We embarked in Mr. Hanson’s
canoe, which was comfortably fitted up, and proceeded up the lagoon,
which now becomes broad, forming a lake six miles in width and the same
in length. On the right bank, and about five miles from Porto Sogoora,
we landed, to visit a small kroom, on account of its market, in order
to purchase some vegetables. This kroom is distant from the lake one
mile, situated on a vast plain of excellent loamy soil. The inhabitants
all turned out armed, but upon their finding my little party friendly,
we were well received, and supplied with a calabash full of clean
water. After purchasing some vegetables and shooting some wild pigeons,
which are here in great numbers, we visited the market-place, although
the weekly market was held on the following day.
The market is held under the shade of a silk-cotton-tree, the branches
of which extend much farther than any other tree I had ever seen, and
are so close as entirely to shade those under it from the burning rays
of the sun. This is not usual in the cotton-tree, although they are
always, at their full growth, of a great height and the trunk large.
I here observed also a tree bearing a singular fruit, the name of which
has escaped my recollection. It is larger than, and much resembles an
orange, but has merely a very thin skin, with pores like the orange,
inside of which is a shell as hard as that of the cocoa-nut. This
shell is about the thickness of a half-crown, and the kernel (which
completely fills the shell) is a little thicker in consistence than
butter, and of an acrid taste. This fruit is very valuable in making
soap, and this soap is considered far superior to any other in this
country. A fruit of the same species, but about one-third of the size,
is also found in the neighbourhood, which is cleared of the kernel and
converted into snuff-boxes. This kroom is named Sava.
After remaining here about an hour we again embarked, and crossed the
upper end of the lake to a very large market, bearing N. 15° W. from
the last-named place, and distant three miles and a half. Here we were
met by several hundreds of persons, attracted by the novel appearance
of the canoe, which was covered in with painted canvass, over a
frame-work forming a house, with the exception of a space at each end
for the canoemen, who navigate the canoe with long poles in the lagoon
and lake. Hundreds came into the water as high as their middle to
get alongside, no doubt induced by other motives than curiosity. My
people used every effort, particularly my two volunteers, to keep the
people back at a proper distance from the canoe. Besides the oppressive
heat, increased by the crowd, the very disagreeable odour from their
dirty skin is extremely offensive to those whose nasal organs are not
properly seasoned to it. But as soon as I pushed the _jalousies_ aside,
and thrust my head through the aperture, a speedy and confused retreat
was the result. Many were pushed down in the water and trod upon; but
they soon returned, after being assured that I was quite harmless, and
could not eat black man. No one of the party had ever before beheld
a white man; but it would appear they had always heard, through such
of their friends as had ever been on the coast, that white men always
choose black men for food in preference to any other. All captains of
slavers tell this to the slaves, besides many other absurdities.
This market is well attended, and supplied with every thing necessary
for native consumption. Several articles of European manufacture are
also exposed for sale. It is about fifty yards from the lake, and
entirely void of any shelter or shade, and would not be known as a
market-place as distinguished from any other space of ground trodden
bare of vegetation. The market of Podefo is held daily, and is chosen
as a central position for all the neighbouring towns. The great
advantage of this place and other markets on the lake and lagoon is
convenient water-carriage. The only dress worn at this place by males,
and by those attending the market, is a small piece of cotton, twisted
like a rope, tied round the loins and passed between the thighs,
and drawn tightly round the lower part of their person. The females
generally, who can afford such, wear a cloth wrapped round the body,
just below the breast, and hanging a little lower than the knee.
Slaves are taken in great numbers from this country.
We next proceeded to the mouth of the river Haho,[12] at the entrance
of which is a small island, the river passing it on both sides. No
doubt this island is formed by the force of the current during the
rainy season, which washes down the soil and meets a check at the mouth
of the river, by the swell on the lake.
After ascending two miles nearly N., we observed numerous beautiful
species of the crane, white, blue, and brown, as well as the large
pelican. Alligators were also very numerous. My canoemen now began
to show some reluctance to proceed any farther, assuring me that
the river was quite unfrequented by any creatures, except those we
saw--alligators and biped tribes. I affirmed, that was the very reason
why I was determined to proceed, and declared that the first person
who disobeyed my orders I would throw into the water. This threat I
was soon compelled to put into execution, by throwing overboard the
head man of the canoemen. He begged hard to be allowed to come again
into the canoe, promising to go wherever I chose. This man was the
caboceer’s son. I allowed him again to come into the canoe, but still
they worked very lazily. I then took my double-barrel into my hand,
desiring my servant to tell them that they must not think, because I
was a white man and alone, that they should disobey my orders with
impunity, declaring that I would shoot the first man who should disobey
me. After this they proceeded tolerably well till a large hippopotamus
showed his head above the water. He soon, however, disappeared.
I cannot say that I had not any apprehensions for the safety of the
canoe, particularly as the river here was not more than twenty yards
wide and twelve feet deep. The canoemen showed every symptom of fear,
but by repeated threats they were induced to proceed; and, until they
had passed the place where the hippopotamus had appeared, they urged
the canoe with a speed much beyond any of their previous exertions. The
African is generally a great coward, particularly if at any distance
beyond his own locality. After many solicitations to allow them to
return, finding their appeal of no avail, the men worked tolerably
well, and we ascended the river rapidly, the current being not more
than one mile per hour.
The course of the river changed so much as to make me almost doubt the
accuracy of my compass, but having two on board, I satisfied myself.
After ascending the stream fifteen miles, the scenery on the banks
changed from an open plain on each side, with long coarse reeds, to
banks rising about seven or eight feet, with large trees of various
sorts, many of the drooping kind, their long fibres falling into the
smooth, glassy stream as it stole slowly along. At this place the
current is scarcely perceptible. The jasmine, twining round some of
the smaller trees or shrubs, filled the atmosphere with its luxurious
odours, and close to the water’s edge were beautiful flags, similar to
those of Britain, but bearing a large white flower. The sun was just
sinking below the horizon, and his last rays were reflected through the
openings of the rich foliage on the smooth surface of the still stream.
Here in the tropics there is no twilight, consequently as soon as the
sun disappears from the horizon all is dark as midnight. As we had not
seen any thing resembling a human habitation, or even the appearance of
a path or footmark, this circumstance, and the tameness of the birds,
large and small, induced me to conclude that we were at a considerable
distance from any kroom or town; I therefore determined to stop for the
night on the first part of the bank clear of the bush I could find.
Fortunately, the moon was bright, and in about three quarters of an
hour I observed a small creek on the left bank, which we entered,
but found that it did not extend more than a few yards. I rejoiced,
however, to find the ashes and marks of a fire having been recently
kindled on the bank. We surveyed all round, to ascertain if any path
led from this place, but being disappointed we again went on board, and
ascended the stream, convinced from the marks already mentioned that
some habitation was near. The hippopotamus and alligators were now,
however, making desperate plunges into the water at short intervals,
from the banks on either side, rendering the navigation in a narrow
river hazardous. The water was also becoming deep with a mud bottom,
so that poles of fifteen or eighteen feet were of no use. I was now
obliged to take a pole, to show the canoemen how to use them as oars.
Fortunately the current here was scarcely perceptible, and our progress
was greater than I anticipated.
After ascending two miles more, I observed a strong light on the
left bank near at hand. This was a cheering sight to all of us, as
we thought it was a kroom, or at least a habitation; we found it,
however, to be nothing more than a camp of seven fishermen, and ten
or twelve boys. Each of the men stood on the bank, armed with old
muskets, ready, no doubt, to give us a volley in the event of our
being enemies. But I had myself two double-barrels and pistols, as
well as my sabre. Upon being addressed, however, by my old friend
Ithay Botho, they lodged their arms, and we landed, and found that
these people frequently came down the river as far as the place where
we observed the last marks of fire on the banks to catch fish, but
never ventured lower, declaring, that if they proceeded farther, one
large fetish alligator destroyed every person, as well as smashed the
canoe. They accounted for our being permitted to pass because I was a
white man, and that it intended to have some more of his amphibious
friends to witness his grand performance with me. However, I told them
that white man’s fetish had more power than their fetish alligator.
They then described his enormous dimensions and power, which entirely
prostrated all the courage of my canoemen. I was in hopes that the
dread of returning to encounter such a monster would be an inducement
to them to proceed onwards with less reluctance, as I had assured them
we could return down the Volta. However, the old fishermen pointed out
equal difficulties in ascending, unless great sacrifices were made to
propitiate the river-spirit or fetish. My canoemen seemed now hemmed in
by dangers on all sides.
The party of fishermen had set their fish-traps, a wicker basket, on
the same principle as that used on the rivers in Britain for catching
eels; the light on the bank attracting the fish to the traps, and, as I
also found to my no small annoyance, attracting musquitoes in swarms.
In consequence of which I and two boys returned to the canoe, thinking
to avoid them, but they seemed determined to show their respects to the
stranger, not by drinking water with me (as the natives do), but by
tasting my blood. With such an annoyance, together with the splashing
in the water of different amphibious creatures, I slept but little. At
six in the morning we had breakfast, having our cooking utensils on
board. This consisted of fish and manioc-root, and a little yam. My
servant, the boy from Cape Coast, intimated to me what he overheard
during the night, between the canoemen and fishermen, to the effect
that they had determined either to descend the river, or, at least,
not to proceed any farther up the stream. If I persisted, however, in
proceeding with my two volunteers and two boys only, they would remain
on the bank with the fishermen, except one who was to volunteer to
pilot us to the first town, about six miles higher up the stream; and
when there, the caboceer would demand a toll higher than I was prepared
to pay, and in that event seize upon my canoe and property.
Being well acquainted with such characters, I was determined, though
alone, not to give way to them. Accordingly, I ordered all my people
on board, which was immediately obeyed; but upon moving from our
position the men headed the canoe down the stream, and declared their
determination not to proceed farther. Upon this I drew my sword, and
drove the whole of the canoemen out of the canoe. My two volunteers,
and myself and boys, being sufficient to man the canoe, we pushed off,
turning down the river. The canoemen, now finding themselves miserably
disappointed, dreaded lest we should leave them alone, and raised the
most piteous yells conceivable, begging to be again taken on board,
and expressing their readiness to accompany me any where I might think
proper. But I had determined, as a warning, to keep them a little time
in suspense, and proceeded a short distance down the stream; at the
earnest entreaty of old Ithay and my other volunteer, I then returned
to take them on board. By this time, however, the fishermen, who had
promised them patronage and assistance, completed their villany, by
declaring them to be their slaves, and determined to keep possession of
them, upon the pretence that they had been turned ashore through their
own disobedience.
Upon my running the head of the canoe on the bank, to my surprise I
found each of the seven fishermen with his musket presented towards me.
They present their muskets from the hip. Seeing that they had neglected
to take the covers of monkey-skin off their locks, and knowing that
they could not touch the trigger, I determined to make the first
attack, which I knew would be attended with success. I had a gun in
my left hand, and ordered old Ithay to come in my rear, ready to hand
me a second directly I should have discharged my first two barrels.
Mr. Hanson’s boy, who showed as much coolness as if I were going to
shoot a pigeon, stood on my left with my sword, which was in a canvass
case. Standing on the bow of the canoe, with one foot on the gunwale,
I desired Ithay to inform them that I did not come to make war, but
though I was _only one_ white I would convince them that I did not fear
them. They might kill me, it was true, but before they could accomplish
that, I could kill at least four of them, having four barrels charged
with three large slugs each, adding that the first man who attempted to
remove his lock cover I would instantly shoot.
At this same moment I snatched the sword-blade out of its scabbard and
sprang upon the bank, cut the fore-arm of the man on the right, so that
he dropped his musket instantly, and the next moment I put the point
to the breast of a second. This place being a small peninsula, and with
no means of retreat, except over the place where I stood, the others
threw down their guns and prostrated themselves, begging me to spare
their lives. By this time the canoemen had tumbled into the canoe, and
would doubtless have left me in turn, could they have done so with
safety, but my volunteers and two boys remained faithful.
In my exasperation I broke one musket against a tree, and determined
to do so with all the others, but relented, satisfying myself with
emptying the priming and dipping the guns in the river. I then returned
to the canoe, taking with me also the old man whose arm was cut,
and whose musket I had broken. He writhed and groaned as much as if
his arm had been amputated. It certainly was cut to the bone, and
perhaps a little beyond; but if taken care of it would probably not be
attended with serious consequences, although the large blood-vessel on
the upper part of the wrist, running in the direction of the thumb,
was separated. I had in my carpet-bag fortunately two bandages, one
of which I used, with some native cotton, to dress it. This done, I
resolved to punish my canoemen, which measure I put into execution with
a good stick. I also obliged them to ascend the river against their
former determination. This I did more with a view to enforce obedience,
than with any wish to visit the town, still distant six miles. To some
it may seem hard to compel individuals to accompany me against their
own free will; but it must be borne in mind that their services were
entirely voluntary; but they expected, being alone, and when they had
me on the lake, to kill time, and obtain pay for their own pleasure.
After we had proceeded about a mile, I observed two canoes ahead,
containing the other six fishermen and the boys. They had fled to their
canoes, which had been moored a short distance above the encampment.
After advancing another mile, I ordered the canoe to be brought round,
and commence our descent. This gave great satisfaction to the whole
of my party; but very different were the feelings of my prisoner, who
till now was, doubtless, calculating upon ample revenge for his wound
and the loss of his musket. The other canoes, finding that we were
returning, returned also, but could not be induced to come near to
us. In passing the place of the encampment, my prisoner begged to be
landed, but I was determined to put him to a little more inconvenience,
and carried him a considerable distance farther down, landing him on
the worst part of the bank I could select.
FOOTNOTES:
[12] This river is called the Haho, and the town Hahotia.