Gregapojee--Extensive Market at--Native Produce and
European Manufactures--Popoe Beads, their Value;
probable Origin of--Houses--Situation and Soil of
Gregapojee--Fish--Alligators--Population--Return to Ahguay,
and thence to Whydah--Toll-house--Fish-trap--Travelling
Canoe--Beautiful Scenery of the Lagoon--Oysters growing to Trees--Old
Ferryman--Gibbets of three Criminals--Murder committed by them--The
English Fort at Whydah--Character of M. de Suza--Treatment of
Slaves--Hints with reference to this odious Traffic--Price of
Slaves--Slave Hunts--Necessity for Education--Cruelty in the
Shipment of Slaves--Visit to Avoga--Account of him--Reception
by him--Mode of Riding--Bad Road--Reason for not repairing
it--Market at Whydah--Native Manufactures, &c.--Duties imposed
by the King of Dahomey--His Enormous Revenue--Head Money--System
of Government--Severe Laws, and their Result--Paganism--Abject
Superstition of the Natives--Dangerous to show Contempt for their
Fetish--Anniversary Offerings for departed Friends--Usual Termination
of such Festivals--Snake Worship--Houses built to contain them--The
Snake-Lizard--The Field-Lizard--The House-Lizard--Vampire Bats.
On the 16th, at 10 A.M., Mr. Hutton, myself, and the captain and
supercargo of a Hamburgh vessel, as well as the two junior Lawsons,
went by canoe up the lagoon, to visit the famous market and town of
Gregapojee,[9] three miles and a half N.W. by N. from Popoe. The town
is of little moment, having nothing remarkable about it; but the
market is the most extensive of any of the settlements on the lagoon,
except Whydah. Cotton, both raw and manufactured into cloth, is sold in
the market, the latter very high in price, owing to their tedious mode
of manufacture. The cloth is, however, much stronger and more durable
than that manufactured in England. Beads, both of European and native
manufacture, are offered for sale here; and the Popoe bead is also an
article of traffic, but it is very scarce and of high price. Nothing
is really known of the origin of the Popoe beads: they are sometimes
found in digging the earth in and round the town, when making mortar
or swish. They are generally from half an inch to an inch in length,
and of a tubular form, much resembling a stout pipe-handle broken into
small pieces. They are of a light red coral colour; but though they
have, I believe, been minutely examined by scientific men in Europe,
the result has not proved very satisfactory. They are balanced with
gold in purchasing, consequently very few persons are able to wear
them. From the circumstance of their being found at Popoe I am led to
the conclusion that these beads have either been manufactured here at
some remote period, or that some ship has been cast away, having on
board those beads as well as other merchandise, which has long ago
perished. My reason for this belief is, that the lagoon extends along
this coast to two hundred miles, and is in no place more than a mile
or a mile and a half from the Atlantic, and in many places indeed it
is open to the sea. This lagoon has doubtless been formed by the sea
throwing up this extensive bank of sand, which is still accumulating,
perhaps more rapidly than in any other part of the world, owing to the
terrible swell always to be found on this coast, which has in many
places washed up a bank so steep as to be scarcely accessible. These
beads may consequently have been buried by the continued accumulation
of sand. Popoe is built on a bank of this description, between the
lagoon and the sea. From the river Volta to Benin the houses are all
built of clay or red earth, which becomes very hard and is very durable.
To return to Gregapojee. The market is well supplied with every article
of consumption of native produce, as well as several articles of
European manufacture, amongst which I noticed the Dutch knife, needles,
beads, a few iron spoons, Manchester cottons to a small extent, pieces
of hoop iron, principally stolen by the coopers employed in European
factories on the coast, which are exchanged with people farther in the
interior. Pipes and Brazilian tobacco are also sold in this market,
wooden bowls, grass baskets of neat workmanship, grass mats and bags of
great pliability and durability, India and Guinea corn, yams, manioc,
farina, meal from the Indian corn, calabashes two feet in diameter,
richly carved, large and small earthen pots and dishes of native
manufacture, shalots, and two sorts of quashie root, and leaves of the
same plant, as well as other medicinal plants used by the natives. Lime
from the oyster-shell is also manufactured here as well as sold in
the market, for use in cotton spinning. All sorts of stock are sold;
pigeons are in great abundance. They are not claimed by any one. We
shot a great number; they are small, but very plump and sweet.
The town of Gregapojee is situated on the left bank of the river, on
rising ground, on a fine red dry soil; though considerably higher than
the neighbourhood, the soil is rich, and very productive. The number
of its inhabitants is small in comparison with its market, which is
held twice during the week. It is the principal market of commerce for
all the neighbouring krooms and towns in its vicinity, either on the
lagoon or inland. This lagoon, in a commercial country, would be of
great advantage, as the navigation is so easy; the water in most places
not exceeding four or five feet, although in some instances I found
the deepest part twelve feet, but not for any distance. The canoes
are pushed along by poles, in the same manner as our punts on many
of the rivers in England. Revolving paddles might be used with great
advantage, or small steamers. The current, which increases during the
ebbing of the tide, does not exceed the rate of two miles per hour;
and in some places during ebb-tide the water is quite fresh, and used
by the natives. Every part of the lagoon abounds with fish of various
kinds. Alligators are both large and numerous. Some days, during a
journey of ten miles, more than a dozen of these reptiles may be seen
on the banks. The bed of the river is found frequently to vary from
sand to mud, but no gravel. By digging any considerable depth, I found,
however, marine sand, confirming my opinion, that on the present bed of
the lagoon the sea formerly rose.
After remaining a few hours at Greejee, I made a slight calculation
of the number of its inhabitants, which we estimated to be at least
twelve hundred, and I always make it a rule rather to understate the
amount than otherwise. We returned to Popoe at 6 P.M. where we remained
during the night. On the following day we proceeded by the lagoon back
to Ahguay, and remained there one night and the next day. On the 18th,
in the evening, Mr. Hutton, Mr. Hanson, and myself, took our departure
by lagoon for Whydah. The river is very interesting during the whole
distance we have yet travelled, but though the moon was bright, it was
not sufficiently powerful to enable me to map the river correctly,
which I regretted much. I made my mind up, however, to avail myself of
another opportunity to do so.
At about twenty-seven miles by lagoon from Ahguay, I arrived at the
toll-house (a place where a barrier is fixed across the river), which
is here only sixty yards wide: this barrier also answers the purpose
of catching fish. It is constructed of stakes driven into the bed of
the river at short intervals; the space between the stakes is filled
up with small palm stems or strong reeds, leaving a space at intervals
for the fish to pass through, which leads them into a trap formed in a
similar manner to our eel-traps in England. During the night, lights of
palm-oil are burnt over the traps to attract the fish. My canoe being
much lighter than the other, containing Mr. Hutton and Mr. Hanson, I
was at the toll an hour before them.
During my stay a large travelling canoe arrived from Whydah, containing
several Spanish gentlemen with about twenty young slaves, male and
female. At this bar the canoes generally stop an hour to refresh the
canoemen, and pay the toll, which is always made in rum. During our
stay the Spaniards very kindly presented their canteen of spirits,
containing plenty of wine, brandy, Hollands, and rum, with a good
supply of cigars. I of course availed myself of their kindness, and
after a few compliments from each party they proceeded on their
journey. Soon after Mr. Hutton arrived, when, after remaining a short
time to refresh the canoemen, we again resumed our journey.
As the morning dawned, the appearance of the lagoon and the scenery
on its banks was really beautiful. But it wanted those delightful
villages, and clean cottages and gardens, which are to be seen on the
banks of the rivers in Europe, though every opportunity presents itself
if the natives were willing to work. Most of the huts on the banks of
the lagoon are of the most inferior description, and the people dirty
in their habits. When about seventeen miles from Whydah, each side of
the river presented a beautiful appearance, having a small tree or
shrub, not exceeding fifteen feet high, and resembling the mangrove,
with the branches drooping, and the top taking root in the bed of the
river, thus forming a beautiful colonnade. The leaves do not reach
lower than a yard from the highest rise of the water. At this place
the water is very salt.
I had often heard of oysters growing on trees, but could never
before give credit to such information. Here, however, I had ocular
demonstration of the fact; the roots of the trees (and as high on the
stems as the water rises) being covered with thousands of oysters, as
well as the bed of the river, for several miles. Some of them were of
enormous size, but they have not the delicious flavour of the Thames
oysters.
At 10 A.M. on the 19th, we arrived at the ferry, between Whydah and
the beach, where goods are landed and shipped. On the left, or north
side, at the commencement of the path or road to the town of Whydah,
stands a house occupied by an old ferry-man, who acts also in the
capacity of watchman. This old man is supposed to inspect all passes
or permits obtained from the caboceer of Whydah to persons leaving the
port, specifying the number of people wishing to proceed by canoe for
any other place on the lagoon. If any more than the number specified in
the permit attempt to pass, the whole are detained, till the smuggled
person is pointed out, who is punished by imprisonment. This same old
watchman, either upon embarking or disembarking, is supposed to present
the parties travelling with a calabash full of clean water and a mug,
which is certainly a very great convenience, as the water here is
excellent. This order was established by the King of Dahomey, at the
recommendation of M. de Suza, senior.
Opposite the ferry-house still remain the gibbets of three canoemen,
murderers of the supercargo of a Hamburgh vessel which traded on this
coast. He took a passage in a canoe by the lagoon for Popoe, intending
to buy oil, but having in his possession eight thousand dollars, he
was murdered by three out of the four canoemen. It is needless to say
that the money was never found. The natives of this place are the most
depraved, unprincipled villains in all Africa, or perhaps in the world.
Were it not for M. de Suza and his friends, indeed, there would be no
safety for white men.
Upon our landing, hammocks were waiting to convey us to the town, which
is three miles distance from the lagoon, through marshes and lakes,
which are not, however, deep.
About twelve o’clock we arrived at the old English fort, which has been
considerably repaired by Mr. Hutton. It is now used as his factory.
Shortly after our arrival, we were visited by several Spaniards and
Portuguese, who gave us a very cordial welcome. Mr. Hutton is a great
favourite amongst them, as well as with every one else. The Spaniards
and Portuguese of this place all treated me with great kindness. In
fact, though they are slave-dealers, they are generous and kind, and
very gentlemanly in their manners, particularly to Englishmen. Even the
greatest enemies of M. de Suza, if they knew him, would admit him to be
so. They also treat their slaves very well, both as regards food and
labour, as I have already stated in other parts of my journal; their
labour is little or nothing.[10]
The Spaniards and Portuguese treat their slaves in every respect better
than the African slave-merchants; and I know, from personal inquiry,
that none of M. de Suza’s slaves would accept their liberty from
choice. I have found by calculation, that the expense of maintaining
slaves for domestic purposes is much greater than the hire of them
to perform any labour would be. The only advantage in holding slaves
is, that you always have them in the house or premises, and in fact
they are always considered as part of the master’s family, and their
services readily procured, which is not the case in regard to hired
slaves; for, so long as the African can procure food by theft or
otherwise (at least it is so along the coast), they can never be
induced to work. This is the great drawback upon all enterprise
and improvement, either in agriculture or manufacture. The greatest
suffering which the slaves undergo is in shipping; but owing to the
vigilance of the English men-of-war cruisers, few opportunities for
shipping them offer. When these do occur, large numbers are put on
board, which frequently causes a loss in the number before reaching
their place of destination.
Since my arrival on this coast, I have often considered whether better
and more humane measures might not be adapted in regard to the Slave
Trade; first, by making it a law in all colonies to which slaves are
transported, that they shall be free in a certain number of years--say
ten years, if they be transported before sixteen years of age, and
seven years, if after the age of eighteen years; and that the free
transportation of slaves from the coast of Africa should be allowed.
This system might in the end be attended with more beneficial results
to Africa, and the slave in general, than the present system.
The price of slaves (owing to the suppression of the Slave Trade)
is very high, consequently the kings and chiefs in the interior go
annually on a two or three months’ slave-hunt, which they call a war.
The result of this hunt is, of course, the capture of a number of
slaves. These slaves, (with the exception of those detained as wives
or slaves, _for they are the same, or both_,) are sold at a high price
to the white men, which is consequently an encouragement to the kings
in the interior to follow up these annual hunts. If the trade were
open, the markets would be soon supplied, and the kidnapping trade
would not be worth following. And if agents were appointed in all our
colonies, to which slaves are transported from this coast, to make
entry of all the slaves employed, so as to insure their freedom after
a limited period, with opportunities of returning to their native
country, these slaves would only be serving an apprenticeship to
their calling, whatever it might be. They would then return to their
native country with a full knowledge of the system of agriculture,
of which at present they are entirely ignorant. This would prove, in
my humble opinion, the most effectual way to civilize and cultivate
Africa. Missionaries are very useful, where the people whom they come
to instruct are even partially prepared to receive them; but where the
natives are not raised either in knowledge or habit above the brute,
I am of opinion that schoolmasters and schools of industry ought to
precede the labours of the missionaries. After paving the way for them,
no doubt their services would be highly beneficial.
If the plan I have ventured to suggest were adopted, the condition of
slaves on their transportation would be much improved, as not more than
one-fourth of the number at present put on board of one ship would be
sent. Suffocation is well known often to be the result of the crowded
state of the slave-ships; in fact, many slave vessels have been run
on shore, with full cargoes of slaves on board, of whom two-thirds
have perished! Then let us think of the enormous expense of keeping
so many English cruisers on this coast, and of the sacrifice of life
amongst our seamen. And, again, what must be the result of the numerous
captures of slaves, who have been taken to Sierra Leone! I fear these
poor creatures will not (in the event of their being sent to the
West Indies) _much_ improve their condition, more than if they were
compelled to serve for the same period in the Brazils.
On the 12th, in company with Mr. Hutton, I visited the Avoga, or
caboceer. His name is Dagbwa, which, in the Dahoman language, signifies
a large calabash, or gourd, with the pulpy part taken out; it is then
used for domestic purposes, but chiefly to drink out of. The King of
Dahomey sent him here to rule, giving him this name, to signify that
his Majesty could drink with him, or could depend upon his orders being
enforced through him. Drinking water with friends is considered the
strongest mark of friendship, consequently if you are invited by any
persons of rank to drink with them, water is always the first thing
presented, as being free from any adulteration; afterwards, rum,
palm-wine, or peto, is produced. Dagbwa is a well-formed man of middle
age, about six feet in height, rather stout, with good symmetry, and
high forehead; but, like almost all the natives on this coast, the
frontal bone narrows suddenly towards the top. The expression of his
countenance is pleasing, his face round and plump, his hair very short,
having been lately shaved,--a custom amongst all ranks here.
The Avoga received us in his garden, under the shade of a large tree,
called Wooatee; chairs were placed for Mr. Hutton and myself, but
the Avoga sat on the ground. No native, indeed, uses a seat of any
description, except on particular occasions, when a low stool is
sometimes used. The Avoga expressed great satisfaction at our visit. It
appeared that he had seen Mr. Hutton before. After drinking water with
him, we partook of some Brazilian wine of roses, and aniseed wine; but
his favourite drink is common American rum, of the worst quality, which
is brought to this coast in great abundance by the American traders.
After sitting a short time the Avoga became tired, and lay down in
the dust. This seems at all times his favourite position, as well as
that of all others. Yamie, his chief interpreter, is a very pleasant,
intelligent man, and speaks good English.
The Avoga has in his possession a very fine donkey, as well as a small
pony, which he prizes very much. He seldom rides on either; and when
he does venture, he has always a couple of men to hold him on. The
chief mode of riding is in hammocks, slung on long bamboos, a species
of palm-cane about twelve feet long. The clews of the hammock are made
fast near each end of the pole. A negro at each end carries it, the
pole resting on his head. The parties are relieved at intervals, four
men being the number generally appointed to carry one person. But if
he be a very heavy man six are considered necessary. A stranger would
feel very much surprised, upon proceeding from the beach to the town of
Whydah, to find the road in such a deplorable condition, particularly
as a good road might be so easily formed. The path, which is three
miles long, is in many places worn down very low, and covered with
water for a distance of seventy yards, to the depth of two and a half
or three feet; and so it is likely to remain, though so much palm-oil
is shipped at this place, and the puncheons are floated over this
water. The reason of this neglect is obvious: if the road were good,
and visitors could reach Whydah without being under the necessity of
sending to the town for hammock-men to carry them, it might be an
annoyance to the slave-merchants. The road might very easily be made
good. The country is very level, and the soil the best for agricultural
purposes of any I have yet seen. They are now digging a well in the
English fort: it is at present twenty feet deep, and the soil at
this depth is the same as at the top. At twelve feet deep, jaw and
thigh-bones, as well as iron anklets and armlets, in a very decomposed
state, were dug up. Doubtless on this spot formerly stood a house, and
as every dwelling-house is also the family sepulchre, this may account
for finding these remains.
The market of Whydah is superior to any I have seen on the coast, and
is better supplied even than Sierra Leone. It is formed of several
streets of low huts, built square, and generally joining one another.
Those who expose goods for sale in the market are subjected to a
very heavy duty to the King of Dahomey, as well as those trading in
any other place. The market is superintended by a chief constable,
who attends to its cleanliness and regularity. The floors of the
market-huts are composed of well-worked clay, and consequently become
very hard and smooth. They are raised about a foot above the streets,
passing between the huts or stalls, consequently the latter are
always dry. The floors are frequently rubbed over with cow-dung, and
immediately swept off as clean as a broom will take it. This is said to
be very wholesome in this climate.
The market-place occupies about three-fourths of an acre, or an
acre, and is held daily. It is well supplied with every article of
native consumption, as well as medicinal plants, and many articles
of European manufacture. Among other articles generally exposed for
sale are the following:--Pork, beef, mutton; cotton cloth, native and
English; thread, beads, gun-flints, tobacco-pipes, iron, pepper, elu
(a composition to destroy musquitoes), chuchume, bill-hooks, Badagry
pipes, flints and steel, raw native cotton; tancacam, a medical root
resembling ginger; goora and kolla nuts; eyo-nuts, used in playing the
game of “adjito;” skins of the alligator, deer, bush-pig, and cat;
dried rats and mice; raw and dried fish; fish cooked in palm-oil;
kootataffue, a root resembling onion, but very bitter; cocoa and
dego-nuts, for making oil; boiled and raw Indian corn; country pots
and calabashes; lime, made from the oyster-shell; grass bags and
baskets; porcupine quills, craw-fish, palm-oil, tomato, shalots, and
occro; water-cresses, salt, farina, ground nut; atoo, or quashie-root;
sakwadee, a root similar to ginger, having a taste resembling
manioc-root; palm-nuts; bodya, a root used as a decoction to expedite
labour in child-birth; agwbaja, used for cartridge-boxes; gun-flints,
stones for grinding corn, brought from Abomey; dookwa, ball made from
beans ground with palm-oil and pepper; kahoma; akaowo (native name),
saltpetre in its original state.
There are several other markets of minor importance in Whydah, all
subject to the same scale of duties, which are collected by the Avoga’s
officer. All goods sent out of the country pay a very heavy duty,
such as palm-oil or ivory; in fact, the native duty here on ivory is
so great, that very little is now bought. It is always levied on the
sellers, who, of course, are subjects of the King of Dahomey. Any
hesitation in paying would cost the individual his head. All persons
who possess any regular income are taxed accordingly. Some idea may
be formed of the enormous revenue exacted by the King, when even one
of M. de Suza’s slaves pays annually a tax of head-money alone to the
amount of two thousand five hundred dollars, and another one thousand
five hundred; these two sums are head-money alone, which is always
paid according to rank, reputation, and income, independently of duties
paid for trade in articles either exposed for sale, or passed from one
part of the kingdom to another, or to any other country not under the
control of the King of Dahomey. The duty on slaves is very high, and is
charged upon the number shipped on board, which is upon the declaration
of the Avoga, which is always made by his own head. When more than
one party ships slaves, one of the party pays the Avoga generally in
rum or tobacco, and then settles with the others, according to the
number shipped by each party. All head-money is paid in cowries. Every
native of Dahomey is a slave, and pays a duty of so much head-money
to the King, consequently many are very glad to leave their country,
preferring a foreign bondage where less severity is exercised.
The roads, with the exception of that leading to the beach, are much
better than in most of the settlements along the coast, and the houses
are much larger and of better construction, and well thatched. The
system of government here is also much superior to that of any other
part of the coast, although very far behind Europe. But, as I have
before stated, the people are so depraved in every respect, that it
is necessary the law should be very rigid to govern them. Perhaps,
however, this arbitrary system of government may have, in a great
measure, been the cause of the total absence of principle or morals
so observable amongst the natives. Besides the punishment of death,
imprisonment for life and for limited periods is inflicted here. The
prisoners are detained always in irons, and in the Avoga, or caboceer’s
house. His headman, or chief constable, goes round the market daily,
and collects the duties from each individual exposing goods for sale.
A portion is exacted from every stall, whatever the goods may be, for
the support of the prisoners. Doubtless little attention is in this
case paid to justice. On the Avoga’s premises is also a store for goods
collected as customs, such as rum and tobacco; which are carried up to
Dahomey whenever the King thinks proper to make the order.
Paganism is the only worship existing amongst this people. They worship
images, which in this, as in other places, are called fetishes, but
here they are more disgusting than in any other part of Africa I have
yet visited. The form is meant to represent a human figure, as nearly
as the clumsy, stupid artist can make it. It is formed of clay, as
large as life, and is placed in all the most public parts of the town.
The lower parts of the body of the image are out of proportion large,
and are exposed in the most disgusting manner. At certain times a
table is laid for him, from which of course everything is taken away
by the priest, or fetish-man. They seem quite delighted when convinced
that the fetish has enjoyed his meal. Sometimes it is left untouched,
which is a sure sign of his dissatisfaction with the quantity,
consequently an augmentation must be made in order to appease him. It
is even worse than sacrilege in England to meddle with or deny the
powers vested in their fetish; and if a white man, even by mistake,
is guilty of contempt towards fetish, he is by the priest doomed to
instant death, through the power of the said fetish. Undoubtedly the
fetish-man would willingly lend his master a hand, but if nothing
should happen to the offender, the fetish-man makes the very plausible
excuse, that had the offender been a black man, he would instantly have
died.
Anniversary offerings are made by all who can afford them, to
commemorate the death of their parents. On these occasions sheep,
goats, and fowls, are killed in abundance, and the friends and
relatives are invited to a grand feast. They believe the spirits of
the departed relatives are present, and they often address them as if
they were partaking of, and enjoying all their luxuries. This feast
generally terminates in the whole party getting into a brutal state of
intoxication. Other customs equally absurd are also kept annually; this
latter custom is held by the moon, which happened this year on the 11th
of April. Its purpose is to ensure to all spirits of departed friends a
safe and easy passage across the great waters westward. They mean the
river Votta. If this custom were not kept up, they believe the spirits
would wander on the banks for the space of one hundred years, before
they would have performed sufficient penance for their friends’ neglect.
The snake is also a fetish or idol here; and houses are built in
several parts of the town for the accommodation of snakes, where they
are regularly fed. These houses are about seven feet high in the walls,
with conical roof, about eight feet diameter, and circular. The snakes
are of the boa-constrictor tribe, and are considered quite harmless,
although I have my doubts upon it. They generally leave this house
at intervals, and when found by any of the natives, are taken up and
immediately conveyed back to the fetish-house, where they are placed
on the top of the wall, under the thatch. It is disgusting to witness
the homage paid to these reptiles by the natives. When one of them is
picked up by any one, others will prostrate themselves as it is carried
past, throwing dust on their heads, and begging to be rubbed over the
body with the reptile. After taking the snake up, a very heavy penalty
is incurred by laying it down, before it is placed in the fetish-house.
Wherever a snake is found it must be immediately carried to the
fetish-house, whether it has ever been placed there before or not.
Snakes abound about Whydah; their average length is four feet and a
half; head flat, and neck small in proportion. Four different sorts or
species are found here. Of the lizard, the most rare is a species of
snake-lizard, of a greyish brown colour on the back, belly white; a
streak of delicate scarlet blends the colours of the back and belly.
They are rapid in their movements, either in climbing or running, but,
like the snake, always retreat to cover. The case, however, is not so
with the common field-lizard, which is much more nimble, and if pursued
generally makes towards a tree or wall. The former is more round and
harder in flesh, consequently not so elastic, and if struck with a rod
will break short at the part struck. Not so the field-lizard: as I have
said, that is nimble in all its movements, and I have often observed it
spring into the air to catch a fly. The male is beautifully coloured,
blue, red, and yellow; but like the chameleon, it has the power of
changing its colour. After death the colours immediately lose their
brilliancy. The lizard tribe is very useful in destroying insects. The
house-lizard also abounds in Whydah; this reptile is quite harmless and
very nimble. Its claws are very sharp: it is capable of catching a fly
or ant when running along the ceiling, although sometimes in darting
on its prey it falls on the floor. It destroys spiders, ants, small
beetles, moths, and many other insects; it is about five inches long,
the head broader and eyes more prominent and brighter than those of
any other of the lizard tribe. It is of a colour between a light grey
and a brown, without any other variation, and, like the snake-lizard,
it is broken by the slightest touch. The field-lizard lays two eggs of
the size of the English sparrow’s egg, quite white, covered only by a
soft cuticle or membrane. The fetish-snake lays a considerable number
of eggs, and lays two at the same time. These are about the size of a
sparrow’s egg also, but both ends are of the same oval form, about the
same as the largest end of the sparrow’s egg. They are generally found
amongst decayed leaves or dry rubbish.
Great varieties of insects are also to be found in and around this
neighbourhood, amongst which I have observed some of great peculiarity;
but as I am no entomologist, I must content myself with describing a
few. First, the vampire-bat, said not to be found except here and at
Abomey, although a species very much resembling the latter is found at
Accra and different places on the coast. Still it is very different in
size, appearance, and habit; the same sort found at Accra is here also,
but it never mixes or associates with the large Whydah vampire-bat.[11]
The former measures only about eighteen inches between the tips of the
wings, the latter varies from thirty-three to thirty-six inches. They
also fly in the day-time instead of at night. The body is about eight
inches long, and twelve inches round; it weighs about a pound and a
half. The shape of the head is similar to that of an English terrier,
except the eye and nostril, which resemble those of a thorough-bred
horse. The ear is much larger in proportion than that of a dog, and
is shaped like that of a rat. The front teeth are feline; the back
grinders like those of the ox. They possess great power in their jaws,
and are as tenacious of life as a cat, living for several days with
a severe fracture of the skull. The body possesses great strength,
having eleven ribs; its back (that of the male) is of a very dark
brown colour, bordered round the diameter or horizontal part of the
back (which is flat) with a stripe of grey. The belly is considerably
lighter, in a mouse colour, and half way round the throat, on the under
side, of a beautiful yellow colour, an inch in width. The female is
deficient in the latter ornament. The wings resemble the small bat, and
have five large claws and a feeler, or smaller claw, merely attached
to the web part of the wing. The frame-work of the wing is very strong
of bone as well as muscle. The first joint from the shoulder-joint to
the elbow measures five and a quarter inches, and from the elbow to
the wrist four inches and three-quarters, the longest part forming
the fingers (middle one), seven inches and a half. The hind legs are
short and strong, and attached to the pelvis bone, apparently quite the
reverse of any other animal with which I am acquainted. The pelvis is
like that of any other animal turned upside down. They are furnished
with five strong feline claws on each hind foot, but not placed like
fingers and thumb, all grasping or hooking the same way, each claw
forming two-thirds of a circle. Except when flying, they roost on
trees, always hanging by the hinder claws, the head downwards. They
couple like the monkey tribe, and have young annually. They carry
their young constantly, till capable of taking care of itself, whether
flying or at roost. The female has two breasts or teats, which resemble
(anatomically speaking) those of a woman. The milk is thick and very
white. They bear young in the months of February and March, and migrate
to different places in the kingdom of Dahomey, according to the fruit
seasons of the different districts. Their visit to Whydah is from the
end of March till the end of April. They live chiefly upon the gwaba
and cachu, plantains and bananas. The native name at Whydah is Tookay.
I forgot to mention, that the body is covered with very fine down or
hair.
FOOTNOTES:
[9] Gregapojee is mostly abbreviated into Greejee.
[10] This I know practically, as I am well acquainted with agricultural
labour.
[11] I have preserved several specimens of these insects, and sent them
to England.