Structures in _Holland_. The Roof is supported by three Rows of tall
Pillars. All the other Buildings are neat, the Streets broad and airy,
and a great many have Canals. 'Tis pity but this Town had a greater Number
of Inhabitants, who had Estates to live upon; for it swarms with the
meaner Sort of People, all Carders of Wool, or Makers of Cloth, who are
not very well to pass, the Manufactures being very much decay'd, since the
Importation of Cloth from _Holland_ has been prohibited by some of its
neighbouring States.
The University seems to be in a more thriving Way. There are actually
three great Men for Professors, _Vitriarius_ for the Civil Law,
_Boerhaave_ for Physic, and _s'Gravesande_ for the Mathematics. The first
is a Gentleman of so much Learning, and has so happy a Way of expressing
himself, that he draws all the young Nobility of _Bohemia_ and _Austria_
to _Leyden_. Of all the Protestant Universities, those of _England_
excepted, I know of none where the Students are more regular and retir'd
than they are at _Leyden_: Nor is there any Place more proper for
Students, who are at the Fountain of Literature, and may live here how
they please, without being obliged to Profusion: For the Students here
don't value themselves upon the Richness of their Cloaths, as they do in
_Germany_; and many of them seldom put off their Morning Gowns, which is
also the favourite Dress of the Burghers; so that the first time I came
thro' this City, I really thought there had been some epidemical Disease
in it: For all the People appearing in the Streets in an Undress, look
like so many Patients. The famous Chamber of Anatomy has been so much
describ'd, that I forbear to speak of it. The Catholics have Churches
here, up one Pair of Stairs, as they have in all the Towns of the Seven
Provinces. Some of these are very rich, and of good Families.
The Passage from _Leyden_ to the _Hague_, whether by Land, or by the
Canal, is equally pleasant, on account of the beautiful Country-Seats, and
fine Gardens, that are to be seen, which way soever you look; so that
these three Leagues seem as nothing at all.
The HAGUE, which is called a Village, because 'tis not inclosed, and sends
no Deputies to the Assembly of the States of the Province, is nevertheless
a better Place than many great Cities which have that Privilege, and is
certainly one of the finest in _Europe_. The States General, as well as
those of this Province, assemble here, and 'tis the Place of Residence for
the foreign Ministers. Heretofore the Counts of _Holland_ lived here.
Since the Establishment of the Republic, the Stadtholders have kept their
Court here; and the _Hague_, as much a Village as it is, may be reckoned
for the Capital of the whole United Provinces. The Inhabitants are more
genteel, more sociable, and in every respect more conversable than in the
other Parts of _Holland_. The Nobility here are esteemed, and Merit does
not go for nothing. The Ladies have a good Air, and dress well, and have
something more engaging than mere Beauty.
The Houses are more spacious and better built, tho' perhaps not so
magnificent as those at _Amsterdam_; and here are some Palaces with
Gardens.
The Palace which they call _the Court_, was anciently the Residence of its
Sovereigns, and afterwards of the Stadtholders. This is a great Fabric,
consisting of several Structures, which form a very irregular Tower. There
meet the States General, the Council of State, the States of _Holland_,
the Council of Nobles, and that of the _Gecommitteer de Raden_, or Deputy
Counsellors of the Province. Their High Mightinesses hold their
Conferences in two large magnificent Rooms, one of which is called the
_Chamber of the Truce_, because the Truce for twelve Years was there
concluded with _Spain_. 'Tis in this Chamber that the States give Audience
to the Foreign Ministers. There is also another great Room in the Palace,
in which are hung up all the Colours and Standards taken from the Enemies
of the Republic. Adjoining to the Court, is the Palace or Hotel for
lodging the Ambassadors during the three Days that the State defrays their
Expence. It was built by Prince _Maurice_ of _Nassau_, after he returned
from his Government at _Brasil_, and he adorned it with all the Rarities
that are the Production of the _Indies_. But all these Things, as well as
the Palace, were consumed by the Flames in 1707, on the very Day that the
Duke of _Marlborough_ set out for the Army. Nevertheless, as only the
Timber Work was burnt, some private Persons who had a Mortgage upon this
House, afterwards caused it to be rebuilt as it now stands, which tho'
'tis not very large, yet makes a good Appearance.
The Palace of the _Old Court_ belonging to the King of _Prussia_, because
it fell to _Frederic_ I. by Inheritance from King _William_ III. is a
large Pile of Building, at the Bottom of a Court, formed by two advanced
Wings, which are supported by high Arches, and joined together by an Iron
Balustrade, which separates the Court from the Street. The Apartments are
large and commodious, and there's a very fine Hall, adorned with Paintings
by good Hands. To this Palace there is a large Garden, which was very much
embellished by the late King of _Prussia_, who gave Leave for all People
of Fashion to see it; but 'tis now neglected. The King's Minister, and
the[104] Count _de Hompesch_, General of the States Cavalry, have
Lodgings there. I could name several other Houses of Consequence to you,
which I pass over in Silence, for fear of swelling my Letter with Things
that are needless.
The Situation of the _Hague_ is very different from that of the other
Towns of this Province, and in its Neighbourhood there's every Thing that
forms a fine Landskip. Every Inlet into the Place is by fine Avenues paved
With Bricks. There is not a better Road than that which leads to
_Scheveling_, a Village on the Sea Shore, a League from the _Hague_. 'Tis
a strait Walk cut out of the Downs, and inclosed by double Rows of Trees
interspersed with Pyramids of Yews. The _Delft_ Road, and that which leads
to _Loosduinen_, one or two Leagues from the _Hague_, are also very
beautiful. In short, go which Way one will, we always find charming Walks,
and even within the Town there are some that are very agreeable. That
called the _Voorbout_ is the most frequented, it being the Ring for the
Coaches. There's a great Walk in the Middle, well gravelled and railed in,
where in all the Summer Evenings there's very fine Company. 'Twas
_Charles_ V. that embellished the _Hague_ with this Walk. It has
occasioned several Disputes between Ambassadors about Precedence; but the
most remarkable that ever happened was that between M. _de Thou_, the
_French_ Ambassador, and M. _de Gamarre_, the Ambassador of _Spain_. These
two Ministers were taking the Air, each in his Coach and Six, when they
met full Butt, and neither would give Way, so that their Domestics were
just going to Boxing; when some Gentlemen of the Assembly of the States,
who saw what gave Occasion to the Dispute, offered the Ambassadors their
Mediation, and proposed to both of 'em to return back at that very Instant
by the same Way they came. M. _de Gamarre_ was very ready to comply with
any Proposal; but M. _de Thou_ refused every one, and would by no means
admit of an Equality betwixt himself and the Ambassador of _Spain_. The
Gentlemen of the Assembly of the States being by this Time reinforced by
several others, all equally desirous to pacify the Disputants, M. _de
Beverwert_, the first of the Nobles of the Province of _Holland_, after
having spent no less than four Hours in Debates and Conferences to no
purpose, seeing M. _de Thou_ obstinately bent in demanding a free Passage,
proposed at last to M. _de Gamarre_, to drive off across the Ring; and for
doing this with the better Grace, he offered that there should be two
Openings made in the Ring; by which Means, said he, his Excellency would
have the Rail opened to him, and the Honour of the Right-hand. The
_Spanish_ Ambassador accepted of the Proposal, and thereby ended the
Dispute; which, had it not been for the Wisdom and Care of the States,
might have been attended with fatal Consequences. Both Parties pleased
themselves with the Fancy, that they had gained _the vain Honours of
Precedency_; a trifling Advantage indeed, tho' in short, if there were any
Advantage to boast of, it was with the Ambassador of _France_, because he
obtained the Liberty of his Passage, which was all he demanded; and he
finished his Carrier, while the _Spaniard_ returned home, perhaps because
they had disputed so long till Night overtook them.
The _French_, who were always very jealous of Precedency, have had the
most Disputes about this Matter. The Count _d'Estrades_, the Embassador of
_Lewis_ XIV. had one in this same _Voorbout_, with the Prince of _Orange_,
afterwards King of _Great Britain_. Their Coaches happened to meet, and
each of 'em aiming at the Post of Honour, they stopped over-against one
another. The Ambassador's Servants ran from his Lodgings, and were joined
by all his Friends; but he forbad them to proceed to Violence, for fear of
the Misfortune which would infallibly have happened, and would have been
very great, by reason of the Concourse of People that flock'd together for
the Prince. The Pensionary, being informed of it, hastened to the Spot, to
prevent any Disorder; and the Ambassador, seeing him coming, said to him,
_I know not what the Prince's People mean; I was ignorant till now, that
the High and Mighty States had a Sovereign_ (implying that the Ambassadors
only give Way to Sovereigns). He sent at the same Time to the Princess
Dowager of _Orange_, to know whether the Prince's Governor was not more to
blame for this Misconduct, than the Prince himself? She answered, That
'twas the King of _England_'s Business to concern himself in the Affair;
for she imagin'd, that his _Britannic_ Majesty was bound in Interest to
support the Dignity of his Nephew's Rank. Nevertheless, she follow'd the
Advice of the Pensionary, and went into the Walk that was between the
Rails. The Prince her Son alighted to shew his Respect for her, and made
his Coach turn about, so that the Ambassador's passed into the Rank which
he claimed to be due to him. This Minister pretended, that the Prince's
Ancestors never had Precedence of the Ambassadors; that on the contrary,
they went a League from the _Hague_ to receive them, on the Part of the
States; insomuch that _Frederic-Henry_ the Prince's Grandfather, tho' upon
Pretence of the Gout he excused himself from the Ceremony, yet he did not
take the first Place. _Charles_ II. might perhaps murmur at it; but being
sold to _France_, he did not stand up for his Nephew's interests.
Since I am upon the Article of Ambassadors, I will now give an Account of
such Foreign Ministers as reside at the _Hague_.
M. _de Fenelon_, Brigadier of the _French_ King's Armies, is his most
Christian Majesty's Ambassador to the States General. This Minister is
Nephew to the Great _Fenelon_, Archbishop of _Cambray_. He is esteemed for
his Modesty, his Candour, and for the Order he keeps in his Family. His
Expence is not very considerable, and appears much less than it is to the
Inhabitants of the _Hague_, who have not forgot what was spent among them
by my Lord _Chesterfield_, Ambassador from _Great Britain_, one of the
most sumptuous Noblemen in _England_, who was perfectly adored by the
common People, and whose Absence is regretted by all Persons of
Distinction.
The Count _de Sinzendorff_, the Emperor's Plenipotentiary, has a great
Estate in the Hereditary Dominions. He is Son-in-Law to the Great
_Sinzendorff_, Chancellor of the Imperial Court, which is the Reason that
he began very young to display his Talents for Business. He has been so
successful as to re-establish the good Harmony between the Republic and
the Emperor, which was violated by the Establishment of the _Ostend_
Company, and to get the _Pragmatic Sanction_ guaranteed by their[105] High
Mightinesses.
The Count _de Golofskin_ is Plenipotentiary Minister of _Russia_, which
Employment he fills with the general Approbation of all that know him. He
is as civil and courteous as the Climate in which he was born is sharp. He
passed his Youth at _Berlin_, and performed his Exercises at the Academy
founded by the late King _Frederic_ I. He was afterwards several Years
Envoy Extraordinary from the late Czar _Peter the Great_, and from the
late Empress _Catharine_ to the Court of _Prussia_; from which Court the
present Empress _Anne_ sent him in Quality of her Ambassador to that of
_France_: And now he has the Management of his Sovereign's Affairs with
the States General. He is esteemed for his Sagacity and good Nature. While
he resided at _Berlin_, he there married the Daughter of the late Count
_Ferassier de Dhona_, who unhappily lost his Life in the Affair of
_Denain_, where he acted as Lieutenant-General of the Infantry in the
Service of the States. She is a Lady whose Virtue commands Respect, and
she has the most charming Family that is to be seen.
M. _de Masch_, Envoy from the King of _Prussia_, is a very fit Person to
manage the Interests of the King his Master in this Country, where a
Minister ought to be civil and popular. The late King appointed him
Governor to the Princes of _Brandenbourg Culmbach_, the eldest of whom is
actually the Prince Regent of _Bareith_. M. _de Masch_ has inspired those
Princes with such Sentiments as do him Honour. He was a Privy Counsellor
of the Regency of _Cleves_, when the King sent him into this Country,
where he has been so happy as to put an End to the long Disputes that had
subsisted[106] between his _Prussian_ Majesty, and the Prince of _Nassau
Orange_, concerning the Succession to the Estate of the late King
_William_ III.
M. _de Brosse_, a _Frenchman_ by Birth, manages Affairs here for
the[107]King of _Poland_, in whose Service he is a Major General. He has
acquired very great Esteem, owing to his Talents, his Politeness, and his
fine Understanding. He observes great Decorum in his Family; nevertheless,
he makes a grand Appearance.
M. _de Sporck_, Minister here from the King of _Great Britain_, as Elector
of _Brunswic-Lunenbourg_, is a Gentleman of good Extraction. He came very
young into Business; and as he is on the Spot to take for his Pattern his
Father-in-Law, the Grand Pensionary of _Holland_, one of the wisest
Ministers of his Time, 'tis to be presumed he will make a great Progress.
He lives as grand as most Envoys. His Lady is very well behaved, and does
the Honours of her Family to Perfection.
I am not acquainted with the Envoys of[108]_Sweden_ and[109]_Denmark_. M.
_d'Ayrolles_ takes care of the Interests of the King of _Great Britain_,
and acquits himself like a Gentleman of long Experience in Business.
Don _Lewis d'Acunha_, the Plenipotentiary Minister of the King of
_Portugal_, has been for a long Time trusted with the most important
Embassies. He was his Majesty's second Ambassador at the Congress of
_Utrecht_, which Employment he afterwards had in _England_, then in
_France_, and now again here, where he makes a Figure worthy of his
Character. He has the Reputation of being an able Negotiator, and a crafty
Politician. He is very polite, is fond of Grandeur, and when he was
younger, was no Enemy to Gallantry.
Thus, Sir, have I given you an Account of most of the Foreign Ministers
who reside at the _Hague_. Those of the States are not many. M. _de
Slingeland_ the Grand Pensionary is at the Head of 'em. The consummate
Wisdom of this Minister, who is grown grey in the Direction of the Secrets
of this State, is acknowledged universally. The Republic deems him as one
of its principal Pillars, and _Europe_ ranks him amongst its greatest
Ministers. He was heretofore Secretary of the Council of State, when the
_Hague_ was what _Rome_ was formerly under a _Sixtus_ V. the Centre of
Politics. He succeeded the late M. _Hoornbeck_ in the Office which he now
holds, and exercises this painful Employment with universal Approbation.
Tho' he is well stricken in Years, and very much troubled with the Gout,
he gives Application to Business[110].
His Second is the _Gressier Fagel_, one of the greatest Genius's of the
State, who is to be reverenced for his great Age, and respected for his
Virtue, for his Learning, his Candour, and for that noble Freedom which
accompanies his Words and his Actions. Being a Lover of Learning, he has a
Library, which is a most learned Collection; and a Cabinet of Medals, and
of the most rare antique Stones. His House is adorned with Pictures, done
by the most able Masters, with Vessels, Urns, and all the most precious
Things which Antiquity has left, of which there is nothing but what he
takes a Pleasure to shew to the curious Connoisseurs. 'Tis pity that this
Minister, who has every Quality for which the greatest Men are reverenced,
cannot live for ever.
'Tis certain that the _Hague_ contains a vast Number of worthy Persons of
both Sexes, and this State may boast of having as great a Number of
Subjects of known Probity, as any other Country perhaps in the World. Were
I to name them all to you, Sir, it would be attempting a Work above my
Capacity, and require a Volume. I may hereafter give you an Account of
such only as make the greatest Figure at the _Hague_, either on Account of
their Employments, or their Birth.
The _Hague_ is the best Place in _Europe_ for a Foreigner to make a good
Acquaintance with the greatest Ease, because of the many Societies or
Assemblies, public Spectacles and Walks. If a Person appears ever so
little in public, he is presently known. The Houses that are most open to
Company, and where the most distinguished Persons of both Sexes at this
Place are to be seen, are those of my Lady _Albemarle_, M. _de Keppel_,
and the Count _de Welderen_. My Lady is Dowager to the Earl of
_Albemarle_, General of the _Dutch_ Infantry, Colonel of the _Swiss_,
Governor of _Tournay_, and Knight of the Order of the Garter. He was of
the _Keppel_ Family, which has for a long time been distinguished in these
Provinces. He had been Page to the Prince of _Orange_, who, when he came
to be King of _Great Britain_, created him a Peer of _England_, with the
Title of an Earl. He heaped Wealth and Honours upon him, and it may be
said, that my Lord _Albemarle_, and my Lord _Portland_, were two Noblemen
for whom _William_ III. always professed the highest Esteem. My Lord
_Albemarle_ maintained himself in Favour by his Assiduity, his
Complacency, by a Fund of real Merit, and by his Care not to ask any
Thing, but to leave every thing to the King's voluntary Grace and Favour.
This Nobleman has left a Son, who has a Regiment in _England_. The Lady
his Dowager is the Sister of Messieurs _Vander Duin_, Nobles of this
Province. She lives in a very decent Manner, and is always considered as
the first Lady of the _Hague_.
M. _de Keppel_[111], the Brother of the late Earl of _Albemarle_, is a
Lieutenant-General in the Service of the State, and Colonel of a Regiment
of Horse. He was for some time Envoy Extraordinary from their High
Mightinesses to the Court of _Prussia_. He lives very grand at the
_Hague_, his Behaviour is extremely noble, and his Family will always bear
a good Character in all the Countries of the World. Madame _de Keppel_,
heretofore _Welderen_, does the Honours of it with all the Care possible,
and she is extremely valued and esteemed. Her Son the Count _de Welderen_,
Deputy of the Province of _Guelderland_, to the States General, is not
inferior to her in Politeness. He was very young when he was admitted a
Member of the State in the room of his Father, and was soon after
appointed Ambassador to _England_, in order to congratulate their
_Britannic_ Majesties on their Accession to the Throne. His Expence in
_England_ was very splendid, but the _English_ did not so much mind the
young Ambassador's Magnificence, as his prudent Conduct. He brought back
with him the Applauses of their Majesties, and the Court of _England_, the
Esteem of honest Men, and the Affection of the Citizens of _London_. At
his Return to the _Hague_, the Count _de Welderen_ resumed his Seat in the
Assembly of the States General. He lives still in a grand Manner, and his
House is one of the gayest in the Country. He has a younger Brother a
Member of the Council of State, (they call him the _Waldgrave_) who is a
young Gentleman of great Merit.
My Lady _Cadogan_, the Dowager of my Lord _Cadogan_, a trusty Friend of
the late Duke of _Marlborough_, and his Successor in his Employments,
keeps an Assembly every _Sunday_ Night. She is Mother to the Duchess of
_Richmond_, who is look'd upon at the Court of _England_, as one of its
Ornaments; and she has another Daughter, _viz._ my Lady _Margaret_, one of
the most amiable Ladies at the _Hague_.
The Countess _de Wartemberg_, the Dowager of the Prime Minister of
_Frederic_ I. King of _Prussia_, lives retired at the _Hague_, much after
the same Manner as the Duchess of _Mazarine_ did at _London_. She turns
Night into Day, and Day into Night. Her House is open to all Foreigners,
and there is very great[112]Play. But she is not so fond as the Duchess
of _Mazarine_ was, of Pieces of Wit, and Men of Learning. If a _St.
Evremond_ wrote or said ever such good Things, I believe she would always
give the Preference to a young _Alcides_.
By the Account I have now given you of the Families, you perceive, Sir,
that here are so many, that a Man cannot be at a Loss where to go. There
is not a Day but some Assembly is held here at one House or another
alternatively. There are no Plays performed here for the present, they
being, as I think I have told you, prohibited by the States, by reason of
the Worms that infest the Dykes upon the Sea Coasts of this Province. The
Comedians continue here nevertheless, and there is an Opera which an
_Hebrew_ Anti-Comedian has sent for from _Paris_, on Purpose to ruin the
Comedy, when the Theatres are open. On the other hand, an Anabaptist, a
zealous Man for the Comedy, rather than that the Opera and its Protector
should triumph, stands up stifly for the Comedy. All the People at the
_Hague_ are Parties in this great Quarrel; but 'tis my Opinion, that in
order to reconcile them, the States will permit neither the one nor the
other. This Schism would be a very copious Subject for exercising the Pens
of the Writers of Comedy; and I am surprised that some Wit or other does
not regale the Public with their Thoughts upon it, the rather because they
are not here in any Danger of Persecution from the Lieutenant of the
Police[113].
You will, no doubt, think it a Phænomenon, to find that a _Hebrew_, whom
in _Germany_ we treat with a sort of Disdain, which perhaps is neither
very Generous, nor very Christian, should concern himself in the
Spectacles, and presume to force an intire Town to conform to his Taste:
But you are to know, Sir, that the Jews are treated in this Government
upon quite another Footing than they are elsewhere; and really, as for the
_Portugueze_ Jews, they deserve it; for a _Texeyra_, a _Schwartzo_, a
_Dulis_, have done such generous Actions as are worthy of the most
virtuous Christians. They live like Noblemen, and indeed such you would
take them to be. They are admitted into all Assemblies, and even their
Wives appear there: They treat and receive all Persons of Distinction at
their Houses: They relieve our Poor, contribute to our Churches, and
differ in nothing from us, but in frequenting the Synagogue.