consists of six or seven Degrees or Rows of Pillars one above another, nor
of the stately Baptistery, much less of the Church-yard, call'd _il Campo
Santo_. Look into _Misson_, he will tell you the Measures of every thing;
for that Gentleman always carry'd Mathematical Instruments about him, so
that there was nothing but what he measur'd and weigh'd.
PISA is a City, which a Traveller can't avoid seeing, but 'tis impossible
for him to stay in it; the People being so proud of the Honour their
Ancestors gain'd by the Conquest of _Carthage_, that their Vanity is
perfectly surfeiting.
Having stay'd but one Day at _Pisa_, I proceeded in my Journey to _Genoa_,
passing thro' the Forest of VIAREGGIO, where, if I had had a great Charge
of Money about me, and had credited what my Guide said, I shou'd have
sweat for Fear; because he affirm'd to me, that there was not a Week
throughout the Year but Passengers were robb'd and murder'd in this
Forest. But when I came to the Village of _Viareggio_, which stands in the
Middle of the Forest, I heard that every Word my Guide has told me was
false; and that since the Courier from _Lucca_ was robb'd, which was
eighteen Years ago, they had not heard of any Robbers this Way: This put
me very much in Heart again, for, to be plain with you, I don't care to
tilt with Highwaymen; but for all this, an _Italian_ Lacquey that I have
in my Service, cou'd not be easy: As we had still three Leagues of this
Forest to pass thro', he conjur'd me to take a Guard; but I banter'd him,
and proceeded on my Way. My Lacquey rode by me on Horseback, telling his
Beads. I had scarce travell'd half a League, but I saw five Men coming
arm'd; my Lacquey, who was the first that spy'd them, cry'd out like a
Madman, _Jesu Maria! what! must I die without Confession? Misericordia!
Misericordia!_ I put my Head out of the Chaise to take a View of the Men,
who had innocently put my Lacquey into such a Fright, and found by their
Garb, that they were Soldiers from _Lucca_, who patroll'd there for the
Security of the Forest. The Panic which my Lacquey was under made me at
first laugh very heartily, but I soon changed my Note; for when we came to
PIETRA-SANTA, a little Place in the State of _Lucca_, he had not Strength
to alight from his Horse; for the Fright had so seiz'd him, that he was
almost dead: He wanted a Confessor; but I thought a Surgeon would do every
whit as well for him, and therefore I sent for one, and caus'd him to
bleed the Fellow, who in two Hours time grew better. I took him into my
Chaise, and went and lay at MASSA DI CARRARA, the Capital of a very small
Feodal Sovereignty of the Empire, belonging to Cardinal _Cibo_, the last
of his Family. After his Death, this Principality is to fall to his Niece,
who, 'tis said, is design'd for the young Prince _Eugene_ of _Savoy_,
Nephew[21] to the Great _Eugene_, and Lieutenant-General of the Emperor's
Forces.
The Founder of this Family was _Alberic Cibo_, the natural Son of
_Innocent_ VIII. and, for his Sake, the Emperor _Maximilian_ II. erected
_Massa_ into a Feudal Principality of the Empire: This City has nothing
remarkable in it but the Prince's Palace, which makes some Shew. The
Emperor keeps a Garrison in it[22]. The People at _Massa_ are of good
florid Complexions, and the Country is famous for its Quarries of Marble,
and for Oil in abundance.
From _Massa_ to SERSANA, or SARZANA, a City in the State of _Genoa_, the
Country is extremely well cultivated, being planted with Olive-Trees and
Vines. In this City the _Genoese_ have a Governor, or Podestat, but they
keep a very sorry Garison in it; and if the Republic has no better
Soldiers to withstand the _Corsicans_, who are call'd the _Devils_ of
_Italy_, I question whether the Rebellion will be soon suppress'd. The
Sergeant of the Guard at the Gate made me a very civil Petition for
Charity, which he assured me was a small Tribute due to him from
Foreigners.
From _Sersana_ I proceeded to LERICI, a little Town on the Sea-side. There
I put my Chaise on board a Felucca, and arriv'd in less than twenty-four
Hours at _Genoa_, tho' I stay'd some Hours at SESTRI, an Episcopal City of
that Republic: It is a small, but pleasant Town, and very agreeably
situate upon a Rock forming a Cape, which runs very far into the Sea. This
Town is defended by a Fort, which seem'd to me to be well furnish'd with
Cannon, but the Garison is no better mann'd than that of _Sersana_.
GENOA, from that Side which is next the Harbour, affords one of the
greatest and finest Points of View in the World; and though most of the
Streets are narrow, close, and not very lightsome, yet among all the Towns
of _Italy_ it is with Justice call'd the _Superb_; for there is not a City
in _Europe_, where there are more spacious and magnificent Palaces, and
where the Houses are in general better built. This rich and stately City
has been subject to several Revolutions, but never suffer'd a greater
Shock than in 1684. when 'twas bombarded by Order of _Lewis_ XIV. The
Marquis _de Seignelai_, who was the Minister of his Revenge, discharg'd
his Commission so well, that from the 18th of _May_ to the 28th, he caus'd
13,000 Bombs to be thrown into the Town. The _Genoese_ were oblig'd to
humble themselves, and the King granted them a Peace, on Condition that
they wou'd send four Senators into _France_, to make their Submission to
him by the Mouth of the Doge, whose Title was to be kept up, tho',
according to the Laws of the Republic, he loses it as soon as he stirs a
Foot out of the City, _Francis-Maria-Imperiali Lercari_ was then the Doge,
who went to _Versailles_, and had his Audience there on the 15th of _May_
1685. He affected to appear very gay there, by which means he gave more
Lustre to the Satisfaction which he came to make, than to his own Dignity.
The _French_ boast very much of this Event, and have not only struck
Medals upon it, but have represented it in Basso Relievos of Brass, in
Tapestries, and in Pictures; and all their Historians talk of it as one of
the most glorious Epochas of the Reign of _Lewis_ XIV. Far be it from me
to detract from the Glory of a Reign, which all the Universe admires, and
to this Day respects; but I cannot help saying, that I question whether
the _French_ wou'd easily pardon any other Nations for making the like
Boast of their Exploits. The _Spaniards_, who have the Character of being
vain, are, in my Opinion, if I may presume to say it, less so than the
_French_. They have a more glorious Passage in their History, and that is,
the Excuses which _Philibert_, Prince of _Piedmont_, Son to _Charles
Emanuel_, Duke of _Savoy_, made in Person to _Philip_ IV. King of _Spain_,
in 1610. That Monarch, being disgusted at the Conduct of the Duke, because
he had made a Treaty with _France_, sought to be reveng'd on him, and
found an Opportunity. _Henry_ IV. King of _France_ being assassinated,
_Mary de Medicis_, the Regent, was in no Condition to embroil herself with
_Spain_, by assisting _Charles Emanuel_. _Philip_ IV. improv'd this
Opportunity, and caus'd Troops to march from the _Milanese_ towards
_Piedmont_: The Duke, in order to divert the Storm, sent his Son to
_Madrid_. The young Prince was very well receiv'd there at first, but he
had the Mortification to be oblig'd to make the most submissive Speech
that could come from the Lips of a Sovereign Prince: 'Sir, _said he,
addressing himself to the King_, the Duke, my Lord and Father, being
hinder'd from coming himself, by his Age and Business, has sent me to
supplicate your Majesty on my Knees, to accept of the Satisfaction which I
am now making. I am at a Loss for Terms strong enough to express the Grief
of the Duke my Father for the Loss of your Favour. I fall once more at
your Majesty's Feet, resolv'd not to rise, were I to die on the Spot, till
you have granted me the Favour I desire of you, which is, to take the Duke
my Father, and our whole Family, into your Royal Protection. By this,
_Sir_, you will give a Proof of your Readiness to pardon the greatest
Errors, and of the Kindness which you always had for a Family which is
devoted to you, and honours you as its Lord and Father. This Declaration,
which is now made at your Knees by a Prince of your Blood, shall, if
necessary, be seal'd by mine. The Duke my Father absolutely relies upon
your Majesty's Goodness, and we resign ourselves to you without Reserve.
If it pleases you to grant me the Favour which I humbly desire of you, it
will be a new Obligation, that will attach us forever to your Interests.'
Was not so submissive a Speech as this more likely to feed the Vanity of
the King of _Spain_, than all the Excuses made by the Doge of _Genoa_ to
puff up _Lewis_ XIV? And is not a Prince of _Piedmont_ at _Madrid_, a
Person of more Consequence than a Doge of _Genoa_ at _Versailles_?
Nevertheless, the _Spaniards_ have neither struck any Medals, nor raised
any Monuments to transmit that Event to Posterity. Pardon me, Sir, for
this Digression: The Prince of _Piedmont_'s Speech is not to be met with
in all the Historians: I believ'd it would be acceptable to you, and
thought it was not altogether foreign to my Subject, to put the Reparation
made by that Prince in a Parallel with that of the _Doge_. I now resume
the Thread of my Narrative.
The Street _Balbi_, and the _new_ Street, are more like Galleries than
Streets. The former lies near the beautiful Church of the _Annunciation_
and the first considerable Structure that appears in it, is the _Jesuits_
College, of which _James Balbi_, a _Genoese_ Nobleman, made a Present on
his Death-bed to the Society, on Condition that his Arms would always
remain over the great Gate. The Reverend Fathers the _Jesuits_ have
laboured much to efface this poor Remembrance of their Benefactor, and for
this End have had great Law-Suits with the _Balbi_ Family; but at length
they were condemn'd by an Arret of the Senate to keep up the Arms of the
Founder, and there they still remain.
The two Palaces _Purazzi_, which are in the same Street, are very
magnificent, and richly furnished. In one of those Palaces there is a
Theatre, called the Theatre of the _Falcon_, which is so extremely well
laid out, that every Spectator may see and hear what passes with Ease, and
without incommoding his Neighbour, the Boxes being large and convenient,
and the Ornaments dispos'd every-where with Judgment.
The new Street is every whit as magnificent as the Street _Balbi_. Here
are the two Palaces _Brignole_, and indeed they are both stately
Buildings. Their Ornaments are the finest that can be imagined, and of the
newest Fashion: The Furniture is extremely rich, there being excellent
Pictures by the greatest Masters, Chimney and Pier-Glasses of an
extraordinary Size, and placed to Advantage; Tables of choice Marble upon
Stands of an excellent Contrivance, and very richly gilt: In short, one
wou'd not wish to see any thing more fine, and more complete. Messieurs
_Brignole_ are four Brothers, of whom there is but one that has a Son:
They are immensely rich, and have seven magnificent Palaces in _Genoa_.
The Palace of the Duke _Doria_, which is in the same Street, is grand and
stately; but not so richly furnished as the Palace of the Prince _Doria_,
without the Gate of St. _Thomas_, which owes its Foundation to the
celebrated _Doria_, who was a General of the Emperor _Charles_ V. This
Palace is very extensive, and has a Prospect of the Sea, but the
Apartments are low and old-fashioned.
The Suburb of St. _Peter d'Arena_ is very large, and contains several
noble Palaces, of which the Palace _Imperiali_, where the Emperor and
Empress lodged at their Return from _Spain_, is esteemed by the
Connoisseurs in Architecture.
The People at _Genoa_ are more sociable than they are at _Venice_, and the
Nobility here much more easy of Access. I don't believe, that they who
accuse the _Italians_ of Jealousy, include the _Genoese_ in that Charge;
there being few Countries in the World where the Women are allow'd more
Freedom, and where, to all Appearance, they take more. A Woman must have
very few Charms indeed, if she has not two or three profess'd Lovers.
These Sparks, who go by the Name of _Cicisbei_, are never out of their
Sight; but they take great Pains in their Amours, being obliged to run so
fast by the Side of their Mistresses Sedan, that they earn a Glance from
the Fair with the Sweat of their Brows. There are Ladies here, who have
five or six of these Admirers always attending them where-ever they go;
and 'tis happy for these Rivals, that they never fall together by the
Ears. 'Tis true, that if they quarrel, they would be obliged to box it;
for the Gentry here don't wear Swords, their Dress being like that of the
Lawyers in _France_; but they always wear short silk Mantles, which I
could wish the Counsellors of Parliament in _France_ would likewise wear,
in order to distinguish them from Tailors and Shopkeepers.
The People of Quality here dress very well, and the _Genoese_ of both
Sexes have a much better Air than those of _Florence_ and _Rome_. The
Princess of _Modena_'s Residence with them has not been to their
Detriment; for they have contracted a courtly Behaviour, to which the
_Italians_ are pretty much Strangers. The _Genoese_ in general understand
good Living, and are never deficient in that respect, for want of knowing
better. Tho' they are said to be a sorry People, I could like to live here
very well. I have been at two of their Assemblies, upon Occasion of the
Marriage of a Nobleman, and have not seen any thing more magnificent; for
a King could not have made a more splendid Entertainment. I was introduced
to them by the Count _Guiccardi_, Envoy Extraordinary from the Emperor,
and received abundance of Civilities. This Envoy is a Subject of the Duke
of _Modena_, and was formerly in his Service. He was that Prince's
Minister at _Vienna_, when he went into the Service of his Imperial
Majesty. He married the Countess _Sinzendorff_, who was the Daughter of
_Hawitz_, the Grand Marshal at _Dresden_. This Lady was a _Lutheran_; but
being at _Vienna_, and having a Curiosity to go to Divine Service in the
Metropolitan Church of St. _Stephen_, while she was looking upon a Picture
of the Holy Virgin, a Flash of Lightning came into the Chapel where she
was, and scorch'd her in a Part, which I verily believe she wou'd not shew
for all the Gold of _Peru_; but she received no other Harm, and thinking
that she saw the Holy Virgin protecting her, it made such an Impression
upon her, that she embraced our Religion, of which she is an exemplary
Professor.
You know that the _Genoese_ are actually at War with their Subjects the
_Corsicans_, who have newly publish'd a Manifesto of their Reasons for
taking Arms. If all they say be true, 'tis certain they have been very ill
used; and that if any Rebellion can be excus'd, theirs may. This War has
already cost the Republic immense Sums, and by the Turn which Affairs are
taking, 'tis to be presumed it will run them into a much greater Expence.
The _Corsicans_ have chose one _Giafferi_ for their Leader. He is a Man of
Courage, and a good Head-piece: They say he has taken an Oath to procure
his Country its Liberties; and if the _Genoese_ are not assisted by some
Power, he is like enough to succeed.[23] Time will bring all Things to
Light. I am, _&c._
[Illustration]
LETTER XXXVI.
_SIR_, _Turin, Nov. 28, 1731._
The Road hither from GENOA is very bad at this time of the Year. During
the first two Post-Stages I cross'd one River no less than thirty-two
times, and saw a great many fine Houses on the Banks of it; for tho' the
Neighbourhood of GENOA is very mountainous, 'tis very pleasant, all the
Hills being covered with Chesnuts, and other Fruit-Trees. After I had
travell'd about four Post-Stages, I enter'd on the Plain which brought me
to _Turin_. This is certainly one of the finest Countries in the World,
and wants nothing but Causeys.
The most considerable City that I met with in my Road, was ALEXANDRIA DE
LA PAILLE, which stands on the River _Tanaro_. 'Tis a great Town, but not
very populous. It formerly depended on the _Milanese_, and was yielded by
the Emperor to the King of _Sardinia_, who keeps a good Garison in it, and
has set Men at Work to repair the Fortifications, which had really been
very much neglected. This City is also of Note for its Fairs, which are
the most considerable in _Italy_.
I afterwards came to ASTI, where I found nothing good but an Inn, which
indeed is one of the best of _Italy_, From thence I went and lay at
QUIERI, a great Town in _Piedmont_, ill built, but full of People of
Quality, and situate in a Plain, which is perfectly beautiful; but I was
in so much Haste to get to TURIN, that I did not stay there. I pass'd by
the Foot of a Hill, on which stands the Castle of MONTCALLIER, a Royal
Palace built by her late Royal Highness, the Mother of King _Victor
Amedeus_. The Apartments are large and magnificent, and command one of the
finest Prospects in the World; but the Gardens belonging to it are no more
worth a Traveller's View, than the Village of _Montcallier_ itself.
At some Distance from this Place I cross'd the _Po_ over a wooden Bridge,
and came thro' a pleasant Avenue to TURIN, the Capital of _Piedmont_, and
the ordinary Residence of the Dukes of _Savoy_. Those Princes chose also
to make it the Seat of the Chamber of Accompts, and of the Senate, which
is what they call in _France_ the Parlement; and they have rendered it one
of the strongest and finest Cities of _Italy_, exclusive of its charming
Situation. 'Tis divided into two Parts, the _old_ and the _new_ City, with
Bastions and Outworks, well fac'd, and a Citadel very regularly fortify'd.
It stands eighteen Miles from the _Alps_, in a Plain which has the _Po_ on
one Side, and the _Duero_ on the other.
This City will always be remember'd for the Siege which it sustained in
1704, when the Marshal and Count _Daun_, Governor of _Milan_, commanded
here, by the Emperor's Permission, at the Request of the Duke of _Savoy_.
He defended the Place against the Duke of _Orleans_, the Grandson of
_France_, and gave Time to Prince _Eugene_ of _Savoy_ to come to its
Relief, and oblige the Enemy to raise the Siege. The _French_ pretend,
that all this was done by Order from Court; and that the Duchess of
_Burgundy_, the Daughter of King _Victor Amedeus_, was the Person that
prevail'd on _Lewis_ XIV. to consent to the raising of the said Siege. As
I am not privy to what pass'd at that Time in the Cabinet of the King of
_France_, this is an Anecdote, which I can neither affirm nor deny; but as
the Belief of what the _French_ give out upon this Head is not an Article
of Faith, I hope they will not be angry, if I do not give Credit to
Rumours, so much to the Dishonour of the greatest King that ever they had:
For how can it be imagin'd, that if _Lewis_ XIV, had really a Desire, that
his Army should decamp from before TURIN, he would have chose to have
subjected that Army to the Hazard of being obliged to fight against his
Will and his Orders, and by that Means to have expos'd the Honour of his
Nephew, the Glory of his Arms, and the Lives of a great many brave Men,
which were lost in that Defeat? Surely, a Retreat concerted in the Cabinet
would have been made in better Order, and would not have had the
Appearance of a Flight. But the _French_ have this Notion: They were never
routed, but 'twas either because it pleased the Court that they should be
routed, or because of some Jealousy betwixt their Generals. They lost the
Battle of _Hochstet_, for want of a right Understanding betwixt the
Elector of _Bavaria_, and the Marshal _de Tallard_; that of _Ramillies_,
because the Marshal _de Villeroy_ would not let the Elector of _Bavaria_
have the Honour of beating us; that of _Audenarde_, because the Duke of
_Vendosme_'s receiving that Shock, was a real Satisfaction to the Duke of
_Burgundy_, the Presumptive Heir of the Throne: And M. _de la Motte_, too,
suffered himself to be beaten near _Wynendale_, only in Complaisance to
the Duke of _Burgundy_, who was apprehensive that he should not be able to
persuade the King his Grandfather to the Peace, which he had very much at
Heart, if _Lisle_ was not taken by the Allies, which City could not have
been mastered, but by letting the Convoy pass, which M. _de la Motte_ had
attack'd. The Passage of the _Scheld_, the raising of the Siege of
_Brussels_, the Surrender of _Ghent_, without strikeing a Blow; all this
was done also by Order of the Duke of _Burgundy_, who was for a Peace upon
any Terms, and cou'd not obtain it without sacrificing both the Army and
Glory of the King his Grandfather. But to speak the Truth, were all the
Marshals of _France_ to tell me the same Story, they would find me as
great an Unbeliever as St. _Thomas_, and wou'd never prevail with me to be
guilty of such an Insult upon the Memory of the Duke of _Burgundy_, the
wisest Prince of his Time, as to believe that he had the Honour of his
Country, and the Interests of his Family so little at Heart.
Nothing can be more regular than that Part of TURIN, which is called the
_new City_. The Houses are of Brick, and three Stories high. The Streets
are wide, strait, and well-pav'd. It has fine Churches, particularly the
Metropolis, or Chapel of the _Holy Handkerchief_, which is also the Royal
Chapel, and may be reckon'd the Master-piece of Architecture. 'Tis in the
Form of an Octogon Dome, all fac'd, not excepting the Roof, with black
Marble. The Altar is in the Middle of the Dome. There is preserved the
precious Relique of our Lord's Handkerchief, of which there's the like in
St. _Peter_'s Church at _Rome_, and at _Besançon_. I had been told, that I
should be able to distinguish the very Print of the Face in this
Handkerchief, and a Part of our Saviour's Body; but I was not so happy as
to discern any thing like it.
The King's Palace makes no great Appearance, nor indeed is it quite
finish'd; nevertheless, the Apartments are well contriv'd; The Furniture
is rich, and there are excellent Pictures, and magnificent Cielings. There
are Gardens in this Palace, which are artfully dispos'd in the Manner of
Fortifications, according to beautiful Plans; but setting this aside, they
are not much adorn'd.
The finest, and the completest Thing at TURIN, and perhaps in _Europe_, in
the modern Architecture, is the Front of the Palace of the late Madame
Royale, the King's Grandmother. This Palace is contiguous to the King's
Palace, and communicates with it by a Gallery. 'Twas a very old Building,
and made a poor Appearance; but Madame Royale spar'd no Cost, either in
Gilding or Painting, to set off the Inside. When this was done, it
happened that the Stair-case was inconvenient; upon which her Royal
Highness, who was in every Thing magnificent, undertook to build one; and
to this is owing the stately Front, of which I here make mention. This
Princess consulted with all the skilful Architects in _Italy_, and fix'd
upon the Plans, which to her appear'd the most grand and beautiful. Before
this Stair-case was built, they us'd to say that Madame Royale's Palace
was a House without a Stair-case; and now they say 'tis a Stair-case
without a House; and really, the Stair-case wou'd become the _Louvre_, it
being by much too big for the Building it belongs to.
I cou'd not get a Sight of the Castle of the _Venerie_, three Leagues from
TURIN; for while King _Victor_ is a Prisoner there, no body is suffer'd to
go near it. You must, no doubt, have heard of that Prince's being under an
Arrest; but I question whether you have been inform'd of what gave
Occasion to that Affair, and of the Manner of his being taken into
Custody. What I have heard of it from People of Credit, is as follows.