the Solicitation of the Cardinal _John Peter Caraffa_, who afterwards,
becoming Pope, by the Name of _Paul_ IV. made a remarkable Addition to the
Authority of this Tribunal. That Holy Pontiff, _Pius_ V. reduced it to its
present State. This Congregation consists of a dozen Cardinals, besides a
Number of Prelates, and a great many Divines of different Orders, who are
called _Consultori & Qualificatori del Santo Officio_. Among those are
included a Conventual, the General of the _Dominicans_, the Master of the
Sacred Palace, the Commissary of the Holy Office, the Fiscal, and the
Assessor, which last must always be a secular Prelate. This Tribunal takes
Cognizance of the Causes of Heresy, and of such novel Opinions as are
repugnant to the Soundness of the Catholic Faith; as also of Matters of
Apostasy, Witchcraft, the Abuse of the Sacraments, and other wicked
Actions; and it likewise takes Cognizance of prohibited Books. It sits
twice a Week, _viz._ on _Wednesdays_ in the Convent of _Minerva_, and on
_Thursdays_ in Presence of the Pope, who is the Head of it. The oldest
Cardinal has the Title of Secretary of the Holy Office, and is the Keeper
of its Seals. None but Cardinals can vote in it, and they admit of no
Proposals but what they think proper.
The Palace of the Holy Office is close by St. _Peter_'s Church, and there
live the Assessor, the Father Commissary, the Fiscal, the Notary, and
other Officers. There also the Prisoners are kept, and there they are
try'd, according as the Case requires. The Officers of the Holy Office
acknowledge no other Judges in the first Instance, but the Assessor of the
Tribunal whereof they are Members; and they appeal for the Definitive
Sentence to the Cardinals who are Members of the Congregation.
I will conclude my long Letter with a Remark, which I have made upon the
_Romans_ in particular, and the _Italians_ in general, I mean its to the
reciprocal Hatred of the Inhabitants of the different States of _Italy_.
That the _Romans_ hate the _Florentines_, I think I have told you more
than once; but that's not all, for they as heartily hate the _Neapolitans_
and the _Genoese_. They commonly say, that there must be seven _Jews_ to
make one _Genoese_, and seven _Genoese_ to make one _Florentine_. 'Tis
unaccountable how the People of _Italy_ can so hate one another. I can't
imagine that they should be so blind as not to see the Prejudice it does
them; for, in short, 'tis not barely the Hatred of one Province to
another, but it diffuses its Poison to the Towns that are subject to one
and the same Sovereign. These People don't consider that they form one and
the same Nation; and that if they did but unite together, they would be
both rich and powerful; but being jealous of one another, they only seek
to ruin each other, and by that means deprive themselves of the most solid
Support of their Liberty.
To my mind, we act much more rationally; for tho' our _Germany_ is divided
into many more Dominions than _Italy_ is, we do however form a Body
against Foreigners, who have a Design upon our Estates and our Liberties.
The lesser Princes comply with the Emperor's Will; and their own Interest,
and that of the Empire, is all one. Our Princes visit and associate with
one another, and maintain a Sort of common Friendship; the _Italian_
Princes on the contrary never visit one another; and when by chance a
Sovereign of four or five Leagues of Country comes to have an Interview
with such another Sovereign as himself, it takes up as much Negociation to
adjust it, as was necessary to settle the Interview between _Philip_ IV.
and _Lewis_ XIV. But is it not ridiculous to see such petty States act
towards one another with as much Finesse and Craft as the most powerful
Kingdoms? 'Tis this Diffidence, this reciprocal Hatred between the
Governments and Towns of _Italy_, that has made them for a long time the
Sport of Foreigners; whereas, if these People did but keep up a good
Understanding with one another, they would soon drive them out; for Nature
has furnish'd them with Ditches and Walls, which if they don't defend,
'tis their own Fault: But it seems as if Providence, by which the Fate of
all Dominions is determin'd, would not have it so.
Adieu, Sir, for the present: I cannot be sure when I shall write to you
again, much less when I shall have the Pleasure of embracing you, tho'
there's scarce a Day passes over my Head but I do it in Imagination. Do
you but render me like for like, and be assur'd that nobody in the World
is more strictly than I am, _Yours, &c._
[Illustration]
LETTER XXXV.
_SIR_, _Genoa, Nov. 2, 1731._
The Road from _Rome_ to LORETTO has been so fully describ'd, that I think
I should pass it over in Silence; nor shall I say any thing more to you of
the _Santa Casa_, which you know in what manner the Angels bore to the
Place where it now stands. If you would be inform'd of the Treasure of
this House, look into the Voyages of _Misson_, who has given a large
Account of every Particular: Since he wrote, the Treasure is not very much
increas'd, the Princes having almost done making their Offerings to it.
The Queen of _France_ has lately settled a perpetual Endowment on it for
the Celebration of four Masses a Day, by way of Thanksgiving for the Birth
of the Dauphin.
From _Loretto_ to BOLOGNA the Road is good, and 'tis a fine fruitful
Country; I stay'd three Days the longer at that City, on purpose to see
the Cardinal _Grimani_, who is Legate there from the Holy See. He is a
Prelate of great Virtue, sound Morals, and polite, but unaffected
Behaviour. He has been _Internuncio_ at _Brussels_, _Nuncio_ at
_Cologne_, and in _Poland_, and in this Quality he resided at _Vienna_,
when he was advanc'd to the Purple. I knew him at all those _Nunciatures_;
I saw him at _Rome_, when he went thither to receive the Hat, and I have
now seen him again at _Bologna_, and find he is the same Man now he is
both Cardinal and Legate, that he was when but an _Internuncio_[17]. For
'tis only in vulgar Souls that Honours change Manners.
Notwithstanding the Reluctance I had to repass the _Apennine_ Hills a
second time, I was forced to resolve upon it, or else to renounce all
Thoughts of being at _Leghorn_ at the Arrival of the Fleets from _Spain_
and _England_, I have been at FLORENCE, and have had the Honour to wait on
the Great Duke, and Madame the Electoress Palatine Dowager. I had formerly
paid my Compliments to this Princess, both here and at _Dusseldorp_, and
she was now pleas'd to call me to mind again, and to shew me abundance of
Respect and Kindness: Her most Serene Electoral Highness lives very
retir'd, and is almost continually at her Devotions: She has her own
Ladies of the Bed-chamber; but as for the rest, she is attended by the
Officers of the Great Duke, and makes use also of that Prince's Equipage.
I did not suppose that I should be able to pay my Respects to the Great
Duke, because I had been told, that it was very difficult to get an
Audience of him; yet I attain'd to that Honour at the very Time when I
least of all expected it. As I was going from the Electress's Apartment, I
met one of the Great Duke's _Valets de Chambre_, who came to tell me,
That his Royal Highness wanted to speak with me: This Message so surpriz'd
me, that I thought the Man mistook me for another Person, till he
convinced me of the contrary: I was obliged to yield Obedience, and the
_Valet de Chambre_ introduc'd me to the Audience: I found the Great Duke
sitting upright in Bed, accompany'd by several Lap-dogs, with nothing on
but a Shirt without Ruffles, and a long Cravat about his Neck of coarse
Muslin: His Cap was very much besmear'd with Snuff, and truly there was
nothing neat nor grand about him: By his Bed-side there stood a Table in
Form of a Beaufet, upon which there were Silver Buckets, that contain'd
Bottles of Liquors and Glasses: His Royal Highness receiv'd me however
with great Marks of Goodness, reproach'd me because I had not yet desired
to see him, and said to me in the kindest Manner possible, That I did very
ill to treat my old Friends with so much Indifference. The Prince
remember'd he had known my Father, and he call'd to mind, that when he was
at _Berlin_, my Parents paid him all due Respects; he ask'd me what News
from the Court of _Prussia_? and wanted to know all the Alterations that
had been made there since his Time: He talk'd to me of the Court of
_Rome_, and particularly of the Pope; and said with a Smile, That the Holy
Father was at first his Subject, afterwards his Equal, and now the Master
of him, and of all the Catholic Princes. The Conversation at length took a
gayer Turn, and ran upon Pleasures, good Chear, and the Bottle. The Grand
Duke said, 'twas too early in the Day to drink Wine, (for 'twas no more
than Two o'Clock in the Afternoon) but that he had a choice Dram, of which
I should taste, and he was so good as to fill me a Glass of it out of a
Bottle which was by his Bed-side. 'Twas to no Purpose for me to protest,
that I never drank Drams; I was fain to drink that Glass, then another,
and after that a third. The Great Duke assum'd no State upon Account of
his Rank, but treated me as his Equal, and drank Glass for Glass with me.
I was just going to fall at his Knees, and to beg Quarter, when, as good
Luck would have it, _Joannino_, his favourite _Valet de Chambre_, came in,
and whisper'd something in his Ear. Upon this the Great Duke put on a
serious Air, and soon after dismiss'd me, but charg'd me not to go from
FLORENCE before I had receiv'd his Commands. _Make yourself as merry as
you can_, said the Prince; _but be sure not to go away without taking year
Leave of me_. Two Hours after I return'd to my Inn, his Royal Highness
sent me a Present of Fowls, _Bologna_ Sausages, Cheese, Sweetmeats, and
other good Things, together with several Dozens of Bottles of most
excellent Wine; so that I assure you I had Subsistence enough for three
Months.
I stay'd four Days, expecting the Great Duke's Orders; but as none came in
all that Time, I desir'd his Favourite _Joannino_ to ask him if he had any
Commands for me; upon which he sent me word, that he desir'd I would stay
two Days longer, and that then he would see me. I heard that a Courier was
arriv'd from _Leghorn_, which brought him News, that the _Spanish_ Fleet
had been seen at Sea; upon which I thought, that the Grand Duke would be
very much taken up with his Ministers; but I was soon inform'd, that he
left all Matters intirely to the Management of his Ministers, the
Commandeur _d'Elbene_, and the Marquis _Rinuccini_, who settled every
thing as they thought fit with Father _Ascanio_, the _Spanish_ Minister.
The Great Duke lay snug in his Bed, not that he was sick, but out of pure
Indulgence. 'Tis now twenty-two Months since he went out of his Palace,
and above seven since he put on his Cloaths. His Levee is not till Noon,
and then he sends for such as he has Business with to his Bed-chamber; but
this is an Honour which the _Florentines_ don't easily attain to; for he
seems to be fondest of the _German_ Nation, whose Language he speaks well,
and pretends even to know its various Dialects. There are few Pilgrims
that pass this Way, either to or from _Rome_, but he sends for them to his
Court, where he converses whole Hours with them, refreshes them with his
Cordials, and puts a Crown in their Pockets when they go away: He dines at
Five o'Clock in the Evening, and sups at Two in the Morning: He always
eats alone, commonly in his Bed; and spends two or three Hours in
Table-Talk with _Joannino_, and some young Fellows call'd _Ruspanti_,
because they are Pensioners to the Great Duke, and paid in _Ruspes_, which
are a Coin of the same Value as _Sequins_; and some of them have two,
three, and even five _Ruspes_ a Week. They are paid by _Joannino_ every
_Wednesday_ and _Saturday_; but all their Business is to attend the Great
Duke, whenever he sends for them at Dinner or Supper; 'tis said their
Number consists of above three hundred, and that they cost his Royal
Highness 80,000 Crowns _per Ann._ They consist of all Nations, but of
_Germans_ more than any other. They wear no Livery, nor are they all clad
alike; and they are only Known by their Locks, which are always very much
curl'd and powder'd.
When the two Days which the Great Duke had order'd me to stay were
expir'd, I again sent for his Leave to be gone; upon which he commanded me
to wait on him, and receiv'd me altogether as kindly as he did the first
Time: He kept me near three Hours, during which he did me the Honour to
talk with me on a thousand different Subjects; and then he dismiss'd me,
saying, _Farewel, go to +Leghorn+, and see my new Guests safe ashore_.
I cannot leave FLORENCE, without thinking it my Duty to mention some
Persons of Note to you, whom I was acquainted with at this Court.
The Commandeur _d'Elbene_ is Steward of the Great Duke's Houshold, and
President of his Council, and venerable both for his Age and his Merit.
The Marquis _Rinuccini_ is the second Minister, but is properly the Soul
of the Council, having been employ'd in Business a long time; for in 1711
he was the Great Duke's Envoy at the _Hague_, and about that Time he
attended the late Elector Palatine to the Election of an Emperor at
_Franckfort_. He was afterwards sent Envoy from the Great Duke to the
Congress at _Utrecht_, and from thence he went to _England_: When he
return'd from his Embassies, the late Great Duke admitted him a Member of
his Council, and put him at the Head of Foreign Affairs, of which he has
still the Direction. 'Twas he that dispos'd the Great Duke and the
Electress to submit to the Times, and to recognize Don _Carlos_, the
Infante of _Spain_, for their Successor: And in fine, he is the Man that
settles all Matters against the Arrival of that Prince, who is expected
here with very great Impatience.
Tho' the Nobility of FLORENCE are in general very civil to Foreigners, yet
'tis certain, that the Marquis _Richardi_ is one of those Gentlemen that
give them the best Welcome; and as he is one of the richest Gentlemen in
_Tuscany_, he is also one of those that keep the best House; he has three
Sons, and one of them is a Prelate; the eldest of them, Don _Vincenzo_,
who is like some Day or other to be the Head of the Family, has travell'd
very much, and is certainly a Gentleman of very great Acquirements and
Merit.
There are a great many fine Ladies here, but they don't dress well, and
have not near so much Liberty as those of _Rome_: There's one Madame
_Suarez_ indeed, that cuts a very great Figure, and keeps open House to
all Comers; she receives Foreigners in a grand Manner, especially the
_English_; but her House would be better, if there was not so much Gaming
in it.
Before I set out from FLORENCE, I can't think it will be improper to give
you a few Particulars concerning the Family of the _Medicis_, which is
near being extinct in the Person of the Great Duke _John Gaston_.
This Family has given seven Sovereign Princes to _Tuscany_. _Cosmo_ the
First, of that Name, was also the first Great Duke. He obtain'd that Title
about _Ann._ 1568. from the Emperor _Maximilian_ II of whom he had
demanded the Title of _King of Hetruria_; but the Emperor return'd him for
Answer, That he knew of but one King in _Italy_, and that was himself.
However, to gratify _Cosmo_'s Vanity, _Maximilian_ invented the Title of
_Great Duke_, that of _Arch Duke_ being already the Appenage of the House
of _Austria_. The Names of the seven Great Dukes, with their Alliances,
are as follow.
_+Cosmo I.+ who married +Eleanor+ of +Toledo+._
_+Ferdinand I.+ who married +Joan+ of +Austria+._
_+Francis I.+ who married +Mary Magdalen+ of +Austria+._
_+Cosmo II.+ whose Wife was +Claude+ of +Lorain+._
_+Ferdinand II.+ married to +Mary de la Rovero+, Duchess of
+Urbino+._
_+Cosmo III.+ who married +Margaretta Louisa+ of +Orleans+._
_+John Gaston+, married to +Anna Maria Frances+ of
+Saxe-Lawenbourg+._
The Family of _Medicis_ calls to my Mind that of the _Kettlers_, Dukes of
_Courland_; and I fansy the following Parallel will hold between the two
Families. The _Medicis_, before they were Sovereigns of _Tuscany_, were
Standard-Bearers of FLORENCE; the _Kettlers_ were Gentlemen, and Grand
Masters of the _Teutonic_ Order in _Courland_. The Emperor _Maximilian_
II. made _Medicis_ Grand Duke: _Sigismond Augustus_, King of _Poland_,
made _Kettler_ a Duke. The two Families have each given seven Sovereigns
to _Europe_, and they are alike related to the greatest Families. The last
of the _Medicis_, and the last of the _Kettlers_, were married to
Princesses of the _Saxon_ Family. They both see Foreign Powers disposing
of their Succession before they are dead[18]. Both Families began to
flourish almost at the same time, at the two Extremities of _Europe_; and
in all Appearance their Period is like to be the same.
I could stay but six Days at _Florence_ this Journey, because I had a mind
to see the Landing of the _Spaniards_ at LEGHORN. I had no Time neither to
lose, for they came into the Road the Day before I arriv'd, and landed two
or three Days after. The Fleet was compos'd of two Squadrons, one of
which, _viz._ the _English_, consisting of thirteen Ships, was commanded
by Admiral _Wager_. The two Squadrons set Sail at one and the same time,
but had been dispers'd by a Storm in the Gulph of _Lyons_. The _English_
came in all together; but the _Spaniards_ arriv'd one after another, and
some of their Transports were lost. In fine, the Troops were all landed on
the second of _November_, _All Souls Day_, whereon there fell a terrible
Rain, on which the Superstitious sounded dismal Conjectures. The Marquis
_de Charni_[19], the Commander of the _Spanish_ Forces, came on Shore the
Day preceding, to adjust all Matters with the Marquis _Rinuccini_, whom
the Grand Duke had sent for that Purpose to LEGHORN. The _Spanish_ General
was oblig'd to take an Oath of Fidelity to the Grand Duke before the
Marquis _Rinuccini_, which when he had done, the _Spanish_ Forces enter'd
the City, incorporated themselves with those of the Grand Duke, and
mounted Guard on the very same Day that they landed. It is stipulated,
that there shall be always two Thirds _Spaniards_ to one Third of the
Great Duke's Soldiers. The _Spanish_ Army consists of no more than 6000
Men, but then they are the Flower of their Troops, and there are Arms and
Equipage for above 20,000. There's one _Swiss_ Regiment, another of
_Walloons_.
I have been to see the two Admiral Ships: The _English_ has three Decks,
and carries 86 Guns: The _Spanish_, which had Admiral _Mari_ on board,
carries 90 Guns, has three Decks also, and is by much bigger than the
_English_ Man of War: It had been fitted up for bringing over the Infante
Don _Carlos_, and no Expence was spar'd to render it magnificent. The
Admiral's Cabbin was hung with Sky-blue and Silver Brocade; the Tables,
Chairs, and the Frames of the Pier Glasses, _&c._ were of _Indian_ Lacca
Red and Gold: But notwithstanding all this Magnificence, the _English_
Ship was the neatest, and far out-did the _Spaniard_ in the civil
Treatment of those that went aboard. The _English_ Naval Officers are
almost all Men of Quality: They strove who should be the most polite to
such as came to visit them, and talk'd very modestly both of their Ships
and their Tackling; whereas the _Spaniards_ bragg'd of theirs beyond
measure; they pretended that their Ships, which had only two Decks, were
much easier to work than those of the _English_, which are all of three
Decks; and affirm'd, that as their Ships were broader and longer, and
their Decks higher, they were much more formidable than the _English_, and
not so much incommoded by the Smoak in a Battle. On the other hand, I was
told by an _Engish_ Officer, That a Ship with three Decks was preferable
to one that had but two, because when 'tis a high Sea, and they are forc'd
to shut up the lowermost Deck, there are still two Batteries remaining,
whereas a Ship with but two Decks, in the same Case, can have but one
remaining: Besides, a Ship with three Decks, _said the Officer_, being
higher than a Ship with but a couple, has a great Advantage over what the
other has, when they come to Boarding. As I understand nothing of
Navigation, I know not whether my _Englishman_ was in the right. But be
that as it will, I am of the Opinion, which prevails almost universally,
that whenever it shall please God to let second Causes have their Effects,
it will be always safer to _lay a Wager_ on the Side of the _English_ than
on the _Spanish_ Ships.
On St. _Charles_'s Day, which was the Festival of the Infante Don
_Carlos_, the Marquis _Mari_ gave us a grand Feast: I say _us_, because I
was there, as well as all _Leghorn_, _Florence_, _Sienna_, _Lucca_, and
_Pisa_, which you'll say was a goodly Company, and I assure you moreover,
it was very gay. The _Florence_ Gentry, who expected that the Infante
would have come with the Fleet, had all bespoke new Apparel; and as they
are naturally very prodigal, they spar'd no Cost upon this Occasion. The
_Lucquese_ Gentry did not come short of them, of whom it may be said, that
taking the _Milanese_ and _Genoese_ along with them, they are of all the
_Italians_ the most polite, and have most of the Air of Men of Quality.
Besides the _Italians_, there was so great a Concourse of _Englishmen_ and
Foreigners at LEGHORN, that all the Lodgings were taken up; nevertheless
Provisions were in great Plenty, and as cheap as ever.
The _English_ are return'd home. 'Tis said, that the Infante[20] will come
hither speedily by Land. The _Tuscans_ long mightily to see him, and
expect he will work Miracles; for besides what they have heard in his
Praise, they lay great Stress upon a Prophecy of _Nostradamus_, who says
in one of his Stanzas,
_Du plus profund de l'Occident d'Europe,
De doubles Nopces un Enfant naitra,
Qui vers le Po menera grande Troupe:
Son bruit au Regne d'Orient plus croitra._
_i. e._
'In the most Western Part of _Europe_ an Infant
shall be born of a double Marriage, who shall
lead a great Force towards the _Po_, and whose
Fame shall spread to the Eastermost Kingdom.'
This Child, _born of a double Marriage_, must be the Infante, who is the
Son of _Philip_ V. by his second Wife.
I heartily wish that I cou'd have staid at _Florence_ till this Prince
arriv'd; but I have order'd my Affairs so as to be at _Paris_ before
_Christmas_, and I must steer my Course accordingly. Yet before I leave
LEGHORN, I must give you some Account of this City, which is of more Note
for its great Trade, than for its Antiquity. 'Tis one of the neatest
Cities in _Italy_, and that to which there's the greatest Concourse of
Foreign Merchants, either for the sake of Trade, or for Shelter from their
Creditors: The City is well built, the Streets broad, strait and
lightsome, and several have Canals in them, after the Manner of _Holland_.
The great Square is beautiful, and the Port magnificent, being divided
into the great and little Harbours, the former of which has been render'd
convenient by the Expence of a fine Mole, and some Towers that serve for
Light-houses; the other, which has a very narrow Entrance, serves for the
Gallies. There's an admirable Marble Statue of _Cosmo_ I. _de Medicis_,
which is rais'd on a Pedestal of the like white Marble: The Great Duke is
represented in Armour, with a Ducal Mantle over his Shoulders, a Turban on
his Head, and a Scymitar at his Feet. The Concomitants of this fine Statue
are worthy of a nice Observation: At the very Foot of the Base or
Pedestal, at the four Corners, there are as many Slaves in Brass,
representing _Turks_, in admirable Attitudes, which seem, as it were,
chain'd to the Pedestal: The _Connoisseurs_ reckon them Master-pieces:
Their Proportion, which is twelve Foot, makes the Vulgar think they
represent four Giants; but Tradition says, that they are the Figures of
four _Turks_, _viz._ the Great-Grandfather, the Grandfather, the Father,
and the Son; who being all on board a _Turkish_ Vessel, the youngest of
them, who was an Astrologer, prophesied to his Companions, as they
embark'd, that on such a Day they shou'd all be taken into Slavery by the
Christians; which Prediction, to their Misfortune, came to pass; for they
were taken by the Great Duke's Gallies, and this Prince caus'd their
Statues to be carv'd, to transmit the Event to Posterity.
PISA, tho' a much more considerable City than _Leghorn_ for its Antiquity,
and the Beauty of its Buildings, is not so pleasant a Place by far. 'Tis a
large, fine, well built City, but extremely thin of People; 'tis divided
into two Parts by the River _Arno_, which comes from _Florence_, and forms
two stately Kays here. The Cathedral is a great stately Fabric of _Gothic_
Architecture: It has three great Gates, the Doors or Leaves of which are
of Brass, and represent the Passages mention'd in the New Testament, a
Proof how grosly they are mistaken, who say they were the Gates of
_Solomon_'s Temple; but they are not near so fine as those at the
Baptistery of _Florence_. The Inside of the Church is answerable to the
Magnificence of the Outside, and the Roof is supported by sixty Marble
Columns.