(which are here call'd _Grilli_) to such a Degree, that Pope _Benedict_
XIII. curs'd them, and banish'd them to the Sea, in which it is pretended
they were all drown'd. This Miracle being talk'd of some Days after in
Presence of the Prince _Pamphili_, he made Answer, that he did not believe
it; for, said he, were it so, I shou'd be the most unhappy of Men! But,
'How is it possible for all the _Grilli_ to be plung'd headlong into the
Sea, and the _Campagna di Roma_ to be deliver'd from them, and that I
shou'd still keep the _Grillo_ in my House?' He alluded hereby to his
Wife, who is of the _Grillo_ Family in _Genoa_.
If the Duke _Carpinetti_ shou'd die without Issue, as 'tis believ'd will
be the Case, from his having been married these four Years past to a Lady
who never yet conceiv'd, the immense Estate of the _Pamphili_ Family goes
to the Family of the Constable _Colonna_, and really it will then be in
better Hands. You know that the _Colonna_'s are the gayest People in ROME,
and the most illustrious next to the Princes of Sovereign Families, to
many of whom they are related. They have the Honour to be of the same
Stock as the Royal Family of _Prussia_. Since the _Ursini_ Family is
extinct, there's not one in ROME can equal the _Colonna_'s. The Head of
this Family is hereditary Constable; he is Prince _del Soglio_, (of the
Throne) and as such, in all public Ceremonies, he sits at the Right-hand
of the Pope's Throne, which is a Place that he yields to none but the
Nephews of the reigning Pope. He is moreover Knight of the Golden Fleece,
and the present Emperor declar'd him his perpetual Ambassador for
presenting the Hackney, which is a Mark of the Tribute that the Kingdom of
_Naples_ owes to the Holy See[3]. The _Colonna_'s are well-bred, affable
and generous, and always liv'd with a Dignity suitable to their Birth. The
present Cardinal, and the Constable his Nephew, are perhaps two of the
finest Gentlemen in the World. They both dwell in the same Palace, and
live in a Concord and Union, which is the more beautiful, because 'tis
what is seldom known among the Great. Their Palace is one of the most
magnificent in ROME, as to the Inside of it; and 'tis pity but that it had
another Front. It owes its Rise to none but its Owners, without being
oblig'd for it to any of St. _Peter_'s Successors. Instead of giving you
the Particulars of every Room, I need only tell you, that they are all
richly furnish'd. It has Cabinets, Pictures and Statues, that are of an
extraordinary Beauty. The Gallery is truly Royal, and has Beauties that
are not to be found in that of _Versailles_, which is admir'd by all
_Europe_: Such are four Pillars of antique yellow Marble, two of which
support an Arch at each End, whereby there's an Entrance to the Salon,
which is at the End of the Gallery. This might be said to be a complete
Gallery, if one of the Salons at the End of it was not raised five or six
Steps, whereas the other is level with the Apartment and the Gallery. The
Roof of this fine Piece of Building is painted, and represents the Victory
gain'd in the Time of _Pius_ V. over the _Turks_ at _Lepanto_, by the
Valour of _Mark Antony Colonna_. These Paintings are by different Hands,
and not all of the same Beauty. As to the Pictures and Statues that adorn
the Walls which are fac'd with Marble, 'tis impossible to see any thing
more complete; and this is a Truth even confessed by _Frenchmen_. I never
saw a finer Show than this Gallery makes, when illuminated on the Eve and
Festival of St. _Peter_, which is the Time of the Constable's presenting
the Hackney to the Pope.
This Ceremony was perform'd not many Days ago; but as it cou'd not be on
St. _Peter_'s Festival, by reason of the Vacancy of St. _Peter_'s See, it
was done at the Church of Our Lady _del Popoli_, on the Day of the
Festival of that Church. The Pope went thither with a great Train, the
Cardinals _Olivieri_ and _Banchieri_, the one Secretary of the Briefs,
and the other Secretary of State, sitting over-against him in his Coach.
When he came to the Gate of the Church, he was put into his Procession
Chair, and carried towards the Altar, where he ton'd the Vespers, which
were continu'd by the Music. During this, Don _Philip Corsini_, the Pope's
grand Nephew, and all the Nobility that accompany'd the Holy Father, set
out on Horseback from the Church, and went to the Constable's Palace. They
were attended by a Detachment from the hundred _Swiss_ Guards, Light-Horse
and Carbineers. Don _Philip Corsini_ complimented the Constable in the
Name of _Clement_ XII. and told him, that he came to conduct him to an
Audience of his Holiness. A Detachment of Light-horse began the March;
then came all the Feudatory Nobility of the Kingdom of _Naples_: The
Princes march'd alone, according to their Rank, being preceded by their
Gentlemen and Officers on Horseback, and follow'd by the Hackney, which is
a white Horse carrying a Saddle of red Velvet, in form of a Pannel, with
the Housing of the same Stuff, richly embroider'd with Silver, trailing on
the Ground: A Purse of red Velvet was hung about his Neck, wherein was the
Bill of Exchange for seven thousand Ducats, which is the Tribute that the
Kingdom of _Naples_ pays to the Holy See. Immediately after the Hackney,
came the Constable, between two Files of the hundred _Swiss_, preceded by
thirty-six Footmen, and surrounded by sixteen Pages, all of his own
Livery. Don _Philip Corsini_ was on his Right-hand, and M. _Acquaviva_,
the _Major Domo_, (who has been a Cardinal ever since 1733.) on his Left.
The feudatory Prelates follow'd him, drest in short purple Mantles, and
riding on Mules, two a breast. The March was clos'd by fifteen of the
Constable's magnificent Coaches, four of which were drawn by six Horses.
When the Constable came to the Church, he alighted, and met the Pope, who
was just then going out of it in his Procession Chair. The Ambassador
kneeling before him, said to him, 'That the Emperor _Charles_ VI. King of
the _Two Sicilies_, his Master, had charg'd him to deliver to his
Holiness, the Tribute of the Hackney, and the seven thousand Ducats, which
his Imperial and Royal Majesty ow'd to the Holy See, for the Kingdom of
_Naples_.' This Compliment must be made in the _Spanish_ Tongue, to which
the Pope makes Answer in _Latin_. _Clement_ XII. said, 'We accept the
Tribute and the Present which our well-beloved Son _Charles_ VI. Emperor
and King of the _Sicilies_, owes to us; and we give to him, and his August
Spouse _Elizabeth_ the Empress, to his Kingdoms and Dominions, and to all
his Subjects in general, our Apostolical Benediction, in the Name of the
Father, _&c._' When the Pope had said this, the Ambassador, who was all
the while on his Knees, rose up, and an Apostolical Notary, who was
present, immediately made an Entry of this Function in the Apostolical
Register, according to Custom. This done, _Clement_ XII. went out of the
Church, and return'd with a great Train to the Palace of _Monte-cavallo_.
The Constable came out in a Moment after, accompanied by the Emperor's
Ambassador, his Cardinal _Cienfuegos_, who rode in the Constable's chief
Coach, the Constable sitting on his Left-hand. The Footmen of the
Cardinal, and of the Ambassador, walk'd in a Body together, without any
Distinction, but the Coaches follow'd alternatively, _viz._ one Coach of
the Cardinal's, and one of the Constable's. His Eminency had ten, which
were each drawn by only a Pair of Horses. Thus they arriv'd at the
Constable's Palace, which they found illuminated with Flambeaux of white
Wax. All the Nobility of ROME came in a few Moments after, with all the
Cardinals. They were plentifully regal'd with Refreshments, and a fine
Firework was play'd off, which was erected in the Court-yard in such a
manner, that it fronted alike both the Palace and the Street. Next Day the
Constable and the Cardinal took another Tour with a great Train thro' the
principal Streets of ROME; and in the Evening, the Ambassador's Palace was
illuminated, where the Sacred College, and all the Nobility, appear'd, as
they did the Night before; and there was another Firework: Thus the
Ceremony ended, and 'tis also Time for me to conclude my Letter, by
assuring you, that I am ever, _&c._
[Illustration]
LETTER XXX.
_SIR_, _Rome, Dec. 5, 1730._
Tho' I am heartily weary of entertaining you with Palaces, yet I can't
forbear giving you some Account of the Palace of the Prince _Borghese_.
There's an admirable Court-yard, and the Buildings round it are of an
elegant and agreeable Contrivance. They are two Rows of Arches, one above
the other, supported by ninety-six Columns of Granate, which form
Corridors or Galleries, so that one may walk all round under Shelter. The
Summer Apartment, which is level with the Court, is fit to lodge a
Monarch. 'Tis adorned with the choicest Paintings, and several of the
Rooms have the Pleasure of Fountains in them always playing into Basons of
Porphyry, or other precious Stones, of which one is a complete Piece of
Work of massy Silver. The Furniture is not answerable to all this
Magnificence, it being all as old as the Time of _Paul_ V. who was of the
_Borghese_ Family, and tho' no more than an Advocate at first, rais'd his
Family from the mean State it was in at _Sienna_.
The Eldest of this Family has a Revenue of one hundred and sixteen
thousand Crowns, and as he lives, is in no manner of Danger of becoming a
Bankrupt. There is not a Family in ROME for which St. _Peter_ has done
more than this. The Prince's Palace in the City is, as I have told you, a
stately Building. There are fine Stables belonging to it, and there's a
second Palace fronting the first, which serves in common for the
Domestics. Almost all the Houses of that Ward, which is one of the most
populous in ROME, belong to this Prince, who has also several magnificent
Country Houses, particularly that of _Mondragone_, near _Frescati_, built
by Pope _Paul_ V. and the Garden near the Gate _Pinciano_, made by
Cardinal _Scipio Borghese_, one of that Pope's Nephews. Before the Art of
Gardening was introduc'd into _Germany_ and _France_, the Gardens of
_Italy_ were reckon'd the finest in the World; but now-a-days 'tis
otherwise, and unless (as is partly observ'd before) a Man is an
_Italian_, and never pass'd the _Alps_, he will look with Contempt upon
all the Gardens which the _Romans_ call _wonderful_, _charming_, and
_astonishing_. Nevertheless, I wou'd not have you think that I find no
Beauty at all in their Gardens; I admire the continual Verdure of their
Holyoaks, Firs, Pines and Laurels, of which the Walks are form'd, tho'
they are gloomy and melancholy. I am amaz'd at the Magnificence of those
who made those Gardens, and am pleas'd to find by what they have done,
that they had the Taste of Noblemen, and that indeed they have not come
short of the most excellent Works in their Time. But then I am sorry to
see how little Care their Nephews take of these Things, how they suffer
them to run to Ruin, and how little they know to make a good Use of the
Estates left them by Providence. Thanks to the Foundations of _Paul_ V.
and Cardinal _Scipio_, the Houses and Gardens of the Prince _Borghese_ are
kept in better Order than those of the other _Roman_ Nobility; yet for all
this, they are not near so neat, and so well trimm'd, as the Gardens of
_France_, _Holland_, and the _Ultramontane_ Countries.
_Mondragone_ stands upon an Eminence, and fronts the City. 'Tis a large
Building, after the Model of the Palace of _Monte-cavallo_. The Apartments
are spacious, but very sorrily furnish'd. The House at the Vineyard
_Pinciano_ is only magnificent on Account of the rare Sculptures with
which 'tis adorn'd. 'Tis almost intirely cover'd on the Outside with
stately Basso-relievos, of antique Marble, among which, 'tis a Pleasure to
see _Curtius_ on Horseback, throwing himself and Horse headlong into the
Gulph, to deliver his Country from the Pestilence. The Statue of
_Belisarius_, in the Attitude of a poor Man begging Alms, is so well made,
that it raises Compassion. The Apartments, tho' very ill furnish'd, are
adorn'd with fine Pictures and Statues: Among the latter, you wou'd admire
_David_ holding his Sling, cut in Marble by Signior _Bernini_; the Groupe
representing _Daphne_ beginning to be metamorphos'd into a Laurel, at the
Nick of Time when the God of Day is going to embrace her; the ancient
Statue of _Seneca_ expiring in the Bath, which is of antique black Marble,
representing the Philosopher up to the Middle of his Legs in a Cistern, or
Vessel of _African_ Stone, of modern Workmanship; the famous Statue of the
_Gladiator_ in a fighting Posture, the Work of _Agasias_ the _Ephesian_,
as the _Greek_ Inscription denotes, which is at the Foot of the Statue;
and in fine, the fair Hermaphrodite lying on a Matrass, all of Marble, of
curious Workmanship. 'Tis said that this Statue was discover'd under the
Foundations of the Front of the Church of Our Lady of _Victoria_, at the
Time that Cardinal _Scipio Borghese_ caus'd it to be erected; and really
'tis so curious a Piece, that it wou'd have been pity it had not been
found, and brought again to Light. Were I to tell you of all the other
Statues of the Prince _Borghese_, I shou'd never have done; for no King in
the World has so many, or so fine; and he may boast of being the Owner of
a Treasure that is inestimable.
I beg leave to take a present Farewel of every Thing relating to Buildings
and Statues, and must acquaint you after what Manner _Clement_ XII. has
taken Possession of the Church of St. _John de Lateran_. This Ceremony was
perform'd on _Sunday_ the 19th of _November_ last. The Pope went in the
Morning with his usual Train from the Palace of _Monte-Cavallo_ to that of
the _Vatican_. At half an Hour past eighteen o'Clock, as they call it
here, which with us is about half an Hour past One in the Afternoon, the
Cavalcade began. Two Trumpets and four Light-Horsemen of the Guard led the
Way, follow'd by several close Carriages cover'd with Tapestry embroider'd
with the Arms of the Cardinals to whom they belong'd: Then came the
Cardinals Mace-bearers, with their Maces of solid Silver. These were
follow'd by their Eminencies Gentlemen and Chaplains, by the Legate of
_Bologna_, and the _Roman_ Princes, all very sorrily mounted, and dress'd
in black Coats and Cloaks. Four of the Pope's Equerries in red Robes, his
Holiness's Taylor, and two Boys of the Wardrobe, in Robes of red Serge,
went before two Portmanteaus trimm'd with red Velvet lac'd with Gold,
which were carry'd on the Backs of Mules, in form of a Litter. The Grooms
in Surtouts of red Serge, two and two, leading the Hackneys of the Tribute
for _Naples_. The Pope's Mules with Caparisons of red Velvet, with Lace
and Fringe of Gold. Three Litters cover'd with red Velvet trimm'd with
Gold Lace. The Master of the Pope's Stables follow'd by two Prickers. At
some Distance from thence came the _Roman_ Nobility, walking without
Distinction of Rank, all dress'd in black Coats and Mantles, with great
Perukes, and their Hats off. Then came five of the Pope's Mace-bearers, in
long-sleev'd purple Gowns with black Velvet Lace, bearing their Maces of
solid Silver, and follow'd by fourteen Drummers on Foot, in Surtouts of
red Sattin with yellow and red Lace, bearing the Arms of the fourteen
Quarters, or Wards of the City of ROME. Four of the Pope's Trumpeters
dress'd in Red with Gold Lace. The Valets of the Apostolical Chamber in
red Robes. The Valets _de Chambre_ call'd _Camerieri extra muros_. The
Commissary and Fiscal of the Chamber in purple Robes. The Consistorial
Advocates dress'd in Black. The Chaplains of the Commonalty in red Robes.
The Valets of the Privy-chamber, and the Chamberlains of Honour in purple
Robes. The four last carry'd on long Poles the four Cardinals Hats that
are vacant. Then came forty Officers of the Senate and People of ROME, in
Gowns of black Velvet, and wearing Caps of the same Stuff: These were
follow'd by the Clerks of the Chamber, the Auditors of the Rota, by the
Master of the sacred Palace walking on the Left of the Dean, by the
Auditors of the Rota, and by fourteen Marshals wearing white sattin
Waistcoats under Gowns of purple Mohair, and Caps of black Velvet. Then
came the Governor of ROME in his Camail and Rochet, the Princes _del
Soglio_ in black Coats and Cloaks, two Masters of the Ceremonies preceding
the Pope's Cross-bearer, who carry'd the Image of our Saviour turn'd
towards the Holy Father, and walk'd between two Ushers bearing red Wands.
Then the Holy Father appear'd in a Litter, like a _Phaethon_, lin'd with
red Velvet embroider'd and lac'd with Gold, carry'd by two white Mules.
Twenty-four Pages in an antique Dress of white Sattin, with a great many
red and silver'd Ribbands, and black Cloaks lin'd with white and silver
Mohair, and inrich'd with broad Gold Lace, encompass'd the Litter, as did
the Footmen, the Scavengers and the Lance-presadoes, in scarlet Cloaths
trimm'd with Gold. Immediately before the Litter the Captain of the
hundred _Swiss_ rode on Horseback, arm'd with a Cuirass of Iron, and his
Helmet, at the Head of two Files of the hundred _Swiss_ arm'd with
Cuirasses like himself. His Holiness, who was in the Middle, wore a white
Cassock. He had a Rochet on, and over it a Stole of red Sattin embroider'd
with Gold, the Camail or short Mantle of red Velvet lin'd with Ermin, a
Cap of the same Stuff, and over that a red Hat. Next to the Litter came
the Almoner, the Gentleman Carver, the Secretary, and the Physician. At
some small Distance follow'd fourteen Cardinals riding on Mules, who were
dress'd in purple Habits, and had their Cowls flapp'd over their Eyes,
with their red Hats. They were follow'd by Signior _Neri Corsini_, a
Nephew of _Clement_ XII. at the Head of the Patriarchs, Archbishops,
assistant Bishops, Apostolical Prothonotaries, the Auditor of the Chamber,
the Treasurer, the Recorders of the Signature, and the other domestic
Prelates, all clad in their Rochets and Camails of Purple. The March was
clos'd by the Light-horse and Carbineers. The former had at their Head the
Marquis _Bartholomew Corsini_, and the Duke _Strozzi_, (both Nephews of
the Holy Father) who shone in gilt Cuirasses, and had over them Surtouts
of red Grogram, or Mohair, embroider'd with Gold. They had on their Hats
great Plumes of white Feathers, and their Pages carry'd their Spears and
Helmets before them. The Light-horse had over their Cloaths, which are not
of the same Pattern, Surtouts of red Cloth with Gold Lace; their Hats were
adorn'd with large Plumes of white and red Feathers, and for their Arms
they bore Lances, at the End of which are little Standards of red and blue
Taffeta, such as I have seen carry'd by the _Spahis_.
All this Cavalcade pass'd thro' the Capitol, the Court whereof was hung
with Tapestry of red Damask lac'd with Gold Tinsel. The Marquis
_Frangipani_, a _Roman_ Senator, receiv'd the Pope, and presented him the
Keys of the Capitol, after making a short Speech to him, which the Pope
answer'd by a Benediction. At _Campo-Vaccino_, thro' which the Train
pass'd, the Pope found near the _Farnese_ Vineyard a triumphal Arch, which
the Duke of _Parma_, as Feudatory of the Holy See, is oblig'd to erect
every Time that the new Popes take Possession of the _Lateran_ Church.
From the Capitol to the said Church, which is a very considerable
Distance, the Streets were hung with Tapestry furnish'd by the _Jews_, who
had brought out a great many moth-eaten Rags for the Purpose.
When the Pope alighted from his Litter, he was receiv'd at the Gate of St.
_John de Lateran_, by the Cardinal _Picus de Mirandola_, Arch-priest of
the said Church, who presented the Holy Father with the Cross to kiss, and
being preceded by the Chapter of St. _John de Lateran_, conducted him to
the Throne which was erected on the Right-side of the great Gate. The Pope
being there seated, array'd himself in his _Pontificalibus_, and put on
the Mitre, after which he admitted the Chapter to kiss his Foot. Then the
Cardinal Arch-priest harangu'd him in the Name of the Chapter, and
presented him the Keys of the Church, one of which was of Gold, the other
of Silver, in a Silver gilt Bason adorn'd with Flowers. During this, the
Cardinals put on their Copes and their Mitres. Then the Pope rising from
his Throne, advanc'd towards the great Gate of the Church. The Cardinal
Arch-priest perfum'd him with Incense thrice, and presented the Sprinkler
to him, which the Pope dipp'd into the Holy Water, and therewith sprinkled
the Clergy and Laity. Then he seated himself in his Procession Chair, and
was carry'd thro' the Body of the Church to the High Altar, the Members of
the Chapter holding a Canopy over his Head. The Pope kneeling before the
Holy Sacrament, made a short Prayer, and went and plac'd himself upon a
Throne erected at the Bottom of the Choir facing the Entrance. There he
receiv'd the usual Obeisance of the Cardinals, Bishops, Prelates and other
Clergy, and then gave his solemn Benediction to the Standers-by, being
assisted in this Ceremony by two Cardinal-Deacons, who put on his Mitre,
and took it off, just as the Service requir'd. Then his Holiness descended
from the Throne, and being seated in his Procession Chair, was carry'd to
the _Lateran_ Palace. During this, the Musick play'd Anthems, and the
Cardinal Arch-priest read several Prayers. When the Pope arriv'd at the
great Pew fronting the spacious Square that opens towards the City of
ROME, he ascended a very high Throne, and gave his Benediction twice to
all the Christian People. Then he saw some slight Medals scatter'd among
the Populace, which were struck with his own Die. After this, he was
carry'd in a Sedan to his Coach, in which he took with him the Cardinals
_Banchieri_ and _Olivieri_, and thus he return'd to the Palace of
_Monte-Cavallo_, attended by his usual Train.
This Cavalcade and Ceremony, after all that can be said, appear more
magnificent in the Descriptions or Prints that are engrav'd of them, than
they are in reality. If I may presume to say so, it has an Air of
Masquerade which I don't think suitable to the Court of the Vicar of JESUS
CHRIST. All the Laity dress'd in Black, and most of the Clergy in Purple,
mounted upon Mules; all this, I say, forms a very dismal Pomp. Most of the
Cardinals and Prelates are ancient, and to see them on Horseback, is not
to see them at an Advantage. Carpets of different Colours were hung out at
all the Windows, as is the Custom here upon all solemn Festivals, either
in Processions, or in public Entries. But in my Opinion, all this
Tapestry, instead of adorning the Houses, makes them look like Brokers
Shops. The Carpets which are hung out in _France_ and the _Netherlands_
upon such Solemnities have an Air much more majestic.
The Models after which the triumphal Arch was erected were very fine; but
as it was executed in Paper and Pastboard, a great Rain which had fallen
for some Days before, had almost spoil'd it. Besides this, the Order of
the Procession was very ill observ'd; for there were sometimes Intervals
of half a Quarter of an Hour. And when the Pope went out of the _Lateran_
Church, there was so great a Stop of Coaches, that he was above an Hour
getting along. 'Tis said, there will speedily be a Promotion of Cardinals;
if so, I shall not fail to let you know what passes at that Ceremony. But
at present I shall add no more, and I question whether you will hear from
me again before Lent. I am, _&c._
[Illustration]
LETTER XXXI.
_SIR_, _Rome, March 10, 1731_
I was some Days ago at an Audience of the Holy Father. I might have had it
sooner, but I thought fit to give Way to those that were more importunate
for it; for _Clement_ XII. has been continually teaz'd upon that Score
from the very Day of his Exaltation. The Form of demanding Audiences is
the same here as at other Courts, and I assure you, the Difficulty of
obtaining them is every whit as great; so that in this Point, all
Countries, and all Courts are alike.